60% vermentino, 30% trebbiano, 10% malvasia. A cuvee that well represents the varieties and region. Vermentino peach and honey to the fore, supported by appley trebbiano and a wisp of malvasia exotica. Vermentino fully out front on the palate. Acidity adequate for balance. Long finish. A pleasure to drink now. 91/100.

Est. 1993 in southern Liguria; clay soil; 24 hour cold maceration; bottled at 7 months. Some sulphur gauze masking varietal aroma. A good scent of pear eventually gets through. And becomes more evocative on the palate. Deliciously sweet and expressive vermentino flavor. Fine acid and texture. Once this airs, it's going to make a dynamite vermentino! Indeed it did. Two hours later, the group found it aromatic, rich, and long. 92+/100.

2021: At Arnad, Aosta Valley; 50 member cooperative est. late 1970s; 70% picotendro (local nebbiolo clone), 30% gros vien, neyret, cornalin and fumin at 1300-1700'. Well, if this isn't a cool vintage, high altitude take on nebbiolo and friends. Sweet cherry, at the same time racy. Way deep aroma. The flavors show both intensity and relief. Rangy set of varietal inputs. Balanced and lasting. Well textured. Better than the nice 2020 in my estimation. 92/100.

2018: Half a hectare of vines up to 100 years old near Gressan. 90% petit rouge, plus fumin, vien de nus; fruit from the earlier ripening parcel is allowed to dry for two weeks; the 'cantina' is a room in the Cuneaz family home. Wow! Is that the definition of petit rouge? Singular combo of cranberry and red currant. Plus cherry and lilac highlights. So precise and magnified. Full flavors confirm aromas. Cranberry like tartness, red currant astringency carry aromatic associations over to textural ones. Singular indeed, as well as sensational. Long, chewy finish. 94/100.

2018: 80% petit rouge, 10% cornalin, 10% fumin. Subtle red fruits and vinosity. Juicy cherry-berry fruit. No tannin. Good balance of richness and acidity. Everything flows along so well. 92/100.

Seventh generation estate est. 1852; vineyards on glacial moraines, alluvial sands, and cobbles derived from granite. Medium - medium dark scarlet. Not much nose at opening. Sweetens up with aeration. The palate is more telling. Good northern Piemonte briskness. Plenty of cherry and anise. Well textured and surely fuller bodied than the appearance suggests. Yes, turns into a very satisfying mouthful, with length and a modicum of fine grained tannin for age potential. 92+/100.

40-100 yr old vines in Boca; nebbiolo (40%), croatina (40%), vespolina (5%) and 9 other local varieties including some whites. The varietal aroma set is forthcoming and clearly well conceived. And beginning to billow. Cooler than ideal service temperature accents the tannin and dampens the flavors at bit. Otherwise, it seems well enough assembled and in tune with this successful series. 91+/100.

2019: Erbaluce; old vines in Boca, highest of the Novara hills denominazioni. Wow, that's got a surprising fruit density for varietal and altitude. Must be the old vines talking. Seckel pear and peel. Full, intense presence on the palate too. Fruit density accompanied by raspy fruit acidity makes for balance, entertainment, and meal-worthiness. Super long finish. Awesome, really. 93/100.

2012: Good example of a northern Piemonte nebbiolo. Race and concentration together. Young and 2012 tight still. Yes, a firm laced expression of its vintage and its origin. Full potential. 91+/100.

Est. 1671 at the foot of the Alps; 5% each vespolina, croatina; vines planted 1980 and 2015; aged a year in large casks. Heavy Bottle Award, and this is the estate's most modest cuvee. Similar color to the 2022 Ioppa nebbiolo, slightly more orange than brown. Fresher, and equally high altitude take on nebbiolo. Less glycerol and more fruit sweetness. And less tannin. Drinking well already; more bottle bouquet to come. 91+/100.

2019: Aged three years in large oak casks. Medium rusty red. That's a sweet, traditional nebbiolo nose, the sort you get from long age in large cooperage. Shows the old way. Yes, sweet and dried cherry, tar, rose. Lots of glycerol. A fine vintage of this and best value in its field. No tannin issues of note. 93/100 Attendees generally agreed with my assessment. 'Varietal character not gussied up with new oak; surprisingly approachable; good intro to Barolo.'

Parker 93: 'Spiced cranberry and blood orange peel off the top of the Domenico Clerico 2020 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d'Alba. This vintage is open and front-loaded overall; however, it does touch on all the main elements atop the Nebbiolo playlist. The wine is lean with young tannins. All said and done, the oak is graciously underplayed, and all the wine needs is another year or two in bottle to allow the fruit to flesh out. It ages in large oak casks with about 10% in barrique. The blend is fruit from the coolest areas of Pajana (in Ginestra), Ciabot Mentin (also in Ginestra) and Percristina (in Mosconi). Drink 2025 - 2038.'

Parker 92: 'The 2018 Barolo is a lean and lively expression with wild cherry, licorice, rose water and crushed stone. Made from a blend of fruit from Annunziata and Berri in La Morra and Perno in Monforte d'Alba, this is a classic, lean-bodied Nebbiolo with an elegant close. Drink 2024-2035.'

2014: 4 generation family operation; aged 3 years in large cooperage. That's quite a sweet and large nose for the vintage. Of course, it is seven years old. It's traditionally styled, all the same. Credit the bottle age for its approachability. Suggestions of tar and roses. Medium bodied. Good, full acidity. Presence and length on the palate. Could be applied now in the right circumstance. Good cellar potential too. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'With fruit sourced from throughout this important Barolo subzone, the Luigi Pira 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba shows some ripeness with dried raspberry and sweet cherry. The wine delivers spice, smoke and tilled earth with some of the iron ore or rusty aromas that are so specific to this village in the Barolo appellation. To the palate, it delivers soft tannins and a mid-weight build with all the makings for another fine cut of steak. Drink 2023-2037.'

Wine Spectator 91: 'A sleek red, with cherry, menthol, juniper, mineral, tar and tobacco flavors riding the vibrant structure. Balanced, with refined tannins lingering with fruit and underbrush elements on the finish. Best from 2026 through 2040. $48.'

Aged 62 months, 18 in cooperage. Medium dark red brown. The vintage's innate rich and ripe fruit survives its aging regimen. Earned bouquet and suavity too. Yes, 2019 fruit keeps it from being too dried out with age. Reasonably priced Barolo riserva with the proper character. Tannins pretty much melted away. More bottle bouquet to come, remarkably enough. 92+/100.

2018: Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 3 week maceration, 4 week fermentation; 2 years in barrels, 20% new. Medium red brown nebbiolo color, advanced by 2 years in cooperage. A solid, standard Barolo here, neither old fashioned nor new fangled. Well poised. Good nebbiolo glycerol coats its innate tannins. Well balanced so will support more bottle age for tannin resolution and bouquet development. 91+/100. Aeration brought more forth. The group was generally even more enthusiastic than I.

300-member co-op founded in 1958; aged 12 months in oak casks. Following the 'modern' claret, here's a traditional Barolo, its fruit tempered by age in seasoned cooperage. More fruit up front than usual for TdB thanks to the nature of the vintage. 2018 sweetens this up nicely, and great nebbiolo acidity supplies the foil. I would not hesitate to serve this with lamb or game this winter. It will thrive for at least a couple more years thereafter. 92+/100.

From high altitude sites; aged 2 years in large Slavonian casks. Medium dark red. This is racier than the 2020. Goes with the cool vintage. Vajra style, neither stodgy/old fashioned nor pandering to modernity. Rather, seeking elegant nebbiolo wines. Playing it close to the vest yet. Good vintage acidity. Considerable fine-grained tannin. Will age evenly and then be versatile at the table. Works for me, including the price. 93+/100. Attendees were keen on this. 'Very Barolo.' 'Serious dark cherry fruit over barrel tones.' 'Nebbiolo acids and tannins.' 'Needs time.' 'Real value in Barolo.'

Parker 94: 'This bottle marks the end of an era, and all you Barolo Castiglione fans out there are in for some very bad news. The name 'Castiglione' is being taking off the bottle, and what we have instead is the Vietti 2021 Barolo. In truth, the name 'Castiglione' does appear in very small, small letters at the bottom of the label for old time's sake, but during my discussion during this tasting, I agreed to remove it from the wine's official name in our database. I'm told it will definitely be gone by the next release. Apparently, the estate was on the wrong end of a copyright issue, so it had to go. Winemaking has not changed, and the wine remains a blend of 20-plus MGA sites. There is no particular set formula. The parcels are fermented separately and a final blending decision is made further down the road. You still get the same phenomenal value. This wine offers firm structure, plummy dark fruit flavors and elegantly chalky tannins. The finish is a little dry, and that ending gives the wine a near-term personality. Drink 2025-2040.'

2015: Aged two years in large Slavonian oak casks. The usual old time restraints of this are loosened by 2015 ripeness and abundance. Plenty of fruit up front and still the tarry mass in the background. Not a modern nebbiolo despite the ripe vintage. Classic cherry, tar, and rose suggestions. Like a port, there's that 'grip of the gob', the core of fruit, tar, and tannin. Especially ample for Barbaresco. Destined for the cellar. 91+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 96: - EDITORS' CHOICE/TOP 100: 'This fragrant red opens with aromas of blue flower, resin, star anise and underbrush. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the savory palate offers ripe raspberry, cranberry and baking spice alongside firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2027-2034. $45.'

Parker 93: 'Elegant and precise, the Cantina del Pino 2020 Barbaresco brings lots of freshness and a charming view of young Nebbiolo fruit. This vintage tends to be more accessible overall, but you are nonetheless awarded with the subtle nuances and complexity that characterize this variety. There is tart cassis, violet and earthy licorice root. Drink 2026 - 2039.'

Parker 95: 'The Paitin 2021 Barbaresco Serraboella has cherry and bright fruit at the top, with spiced cherry, cooked cranberry and orange peel with clove. There is a very fresh botanical feel to this wine with spice and earth, and some distant dried flowers as well. It has a low-key and elegant mouthfeel that stays with you over the long haul. Drink 2026 - 2040. $55.'

Parker 95: 'Very true to the Nebbiolo grape, the Cantina del Pino 2018 Barbaresco Albesani reveals an especially bright and lifted character with tart berry fruit and crushed roses. Poised for long cellar aging, the wine is coiled tight in terms of tannins and texture at this young stage in its drinking window. Give it ample time to unwind. Drink 2023 - 2038. $60.

Parker 95: 'With fruit from Neive on loamy limestone soils, the Cantina del Pino 2020 Barbaresco Gallina is terrific. The wine shows elegance and a lingering sense of growing power that gives it a tight and more compact mouthfeel. The Gallina has a little more tannic power and structure compared to the others in the portfolio. Drink 2026 - 2042. $65.'

Parker 95: 'The 2020 Barbaresco boasts an ample set of aromas with wild cherry, blue flower, sweet spice and crushed limestone. As always, the wine paints an exciting and authentic portrait of Nebbiolo, albeit with a little more richness and texture in this vintage. This is especially true in terms of the palate, where the wine offers mid-weight intensity with melting tannins. Drink 2025-2045. $52.'

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 3 week maceration, 4 week fermentation; 2 years in barrels, 20% new. Paler and ruddier still. Oh, that is smooth and inviting already in this great, forward B'co vintage. Yeah, 'legere'. Offers little resistance, though it will gain a lot more bottle bouquet. Flavorful and long. 93+/100. Commentators considered it both age worthy and price worthy.

Cooperative of 180 growers cultivating 750 acres; 1 year in large barrels followed by 1 year in bottle before release. Constrained; proper. Overwhelmed by the former wine. Neat and discreet 2017 medium intense style. That's got all the right stuff for an ageworthy (mid term) 17 nebbiolo of Barbaresco weight. Well balanced. Cellar it awhile. 91+/100.

Cooperative of 180 growers cultivating 750 acres; 1 year in large barrels followed by 1 year in bottle before release. Constrained; proper. Overwhelmed by the former wine. Neat and discreet 2017 medium intense style. That's got all the right stuff for an ageworthy (mid term) 17 nebbiolo of Barbaresco weight. Well balanced. Cellar it awhile. 91+/100.

2023: Small, family run estate at Roero; home/winery named Ca' Gialla; aged in seasoned barrels. Medium scarlet nebbiolo color. Nice cherry, tar, and licorice DOCG and nebbiolo character. Aura of roses too. Smells right; smells like a deal. Yes, the right weight, flavor profile, acidity and tannin markers. Age worthy. Food worthy. Price worthy. Proving a good source. Gavi and Barbera both enjoyed by the panel earlier. 92+/100.

From Pietro Ratti's vineyards in Roero. The medium dark, red orange appearance of nebbiolo. A rich, dense take on this DOCG, which the appearance belies. Nebbiolo cherry, tar, rose, and glycerol. All over again on the palate. Good acid and only modest tannin, of the fine grained sort. Flavorful and long. Just a classic Ratti take on Langhe nebbiolo, neither modern nor old time. 92+/100.

2018: The fruit forward nature of the vintage is flattering to this cuvee, which can be standoffish in youth. Yes, sweet cherry nebbiolo to the fore. Has form and foundation too. Ready to serve. 91/100.

2021: At La Morra. That's a nice and pure Langhe nebbiolo. No pretensions of Barolo grandeur. Just fruity and gently flowing. Light tannic grip keeps it serious for food. Flavorful. Good acid in 2021. Hits my sweet spot. Apply now or later. Long finish. 91++/100. Agreeing it was still a little tannic, that didn't bother most commentators. Wine of the Night for one.

Est. 1976 at Monforte d'Alba; 25 year old vines in Bricco San Pietro; aged in vats and amphorae. Nebbiolo's lightness of color is a continued theme. More power, more bulk, more substance than the northern Piemonte nebbiolos that preceded it. Reads Langhe nebbiolo. A rich mouthful of cherry, tar, and anise varietal notes. Approaches Barolo in intensity. No tannin issues, but so much more bottle bouquet to come. 92+/100.

Piemonte winery best known for its old vines Barolo; its Gavi was a big Wed group favorite. A nice amalgam of old barrel influence and modern varietal fruit expressions. I mean, definitely cooperage tempered and just as explicitly nebbiolo red cherry. Yes, both sweet fruited and barrel assuaged on the palate. The tannins are fine grained and nicely fruit coated. All hangs together right. The class of nebbiolo at a great price. 93+/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Real character!' Long, and will be much better with time.' 'Nice value.' Fruits, tannins, acidity all correct.'

At Monforte d'Alba; one of Piemonte's fastest rising stars. Medium dark ruby. Much fruitier, more forthcoming than the previous four nebbiolos in the tasting. More modern. Real depth and aromatic intensity. Mouthful of fruit flavors. Yes, this is new wave. Well balanced. The tannins are coated. Serviceable for sure; so much more to come. 92+/100.

Est. 1953 at La Morra. Medium red brown. Soft, mellow, advanced. Surprise. Ah, but what a back bite of tannin! And acid. And astringency. Two tales to tell. Intriguing cellar possibilities. 91+/100.

Sourced from estate vineyards in the Starda parcel on the Bricco di Neive cru. Back to the paler color here. Fruity; darker fruit than the rest. Sweet smelling and singular; terroir specific. Very rich in flavor and texture. The most generous and forthcoming of the lot. Plenty to like already. Well balanced. No tannin issues. Has bottle bouquet potential too. 93+/100.

At Barbaresco; in 1997 the winegrowing Vacca family left the Barbaresco cooperative to make their own wines; mainly from younger vines; unwooded. Fullest color so far. Could easily be a Barbaresco. Shows the size and style. Oh, boy, extra aromatic breadth, depth, and complexity. Very dry and quite suave on the palate. Fine grained, clinging tannin suggested cellar potential. This is serious juice. 93+/100.

From vineyards in Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso. Medium ruby. Strong and hefty, as the Produttori's nebbiolos are apt to be. Looks expensive..until you sniff it. More than just a baby Barbaresco. An adolescent, at least. Classic aromas and flavors of cherry, tar, and rose. Fine acidity and great suavity. Will probably cellar well, if one can resist putting it right to use with hearty fare. This is a much more satisfying experience than mass produced, cheap Barolos and B'cos that can be seen in the same price range. 93+/100. Widely admired. Cellaring suggested. 'Lots of real nebbiolo fruit plus lots of hard tannins.' 'Proper nebbiolo in there, both in flavor and acidity.' 'All the classic notes: cherry, rose, tar.'

30 year old vines on sandy soil. Proper medium dark red orange. For a cool vintage and sandy soils, this is pretty hefty. They like this vintage in Piemonte. Pure and classic nebbiolo aromatic profile. Proper middle weight. Flavorful and well textured. Good acid and modicum of tannin in back. Overall well balanced and cellar worthy. It's not too tough to take to the dinner table now though. Good value. 91+/100. Widely liked. 'Very fruit driven bouquet; cherry. Savory, balanced, good structure. For the table.' 'Tar and cherry nose. High acid, gripping tannins.'

2023: Est. 1960; from a single vineyard in Magliano Aflieri. purchased in 2016, vines planted 1967-2002. 3% cab franc. Oh, this surges with cherry and tar nebbiolo goodness. Yow. Ideal nebbiolo take. Full flavored. Great acid, fine texture. Wants to go to the table. Long on texture and power. Sallies forth. Best vintage of this yet. 93/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Nice young nebbiolo fruit.' 'Very fruit driven nose and palate; clear varietal aromatics and tannins; far friendlier than most young nebbiolo wines.'

2021: Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 25 year old vines on calcareous soil at 1000'. Nebbiolo's medium dark, ruddy red color. Freshness and buoyancy in cool 2021. Upon opening, not a lot of varietal aroma formed yet. The flavors are coming on though. Tar, dried cherry, subtle suggestion of rose. I like the texture. Medium bodied and just lightly tannic compared to the Big Two nebbiolos. Good acidity. Has poise. 91+/100. With two hours' aeration, this came on like gangbusters. 'What a nose!! (times 2).' 'Palate too; terrific stuff.' 'Beguiling.' Very popular with the tasting panel.

From estate vineyards around the winery 10-25 years old; aged in seasoned cooperage. Oh, that is thoroughly 2023 and Vajra fruit elegant. Right and pure and lovely red cherry, tar, and rose nebbiolo classic. Good material grip on the palate. About power, intensity, and framework as well as elegance. Tells all there needs to tell about Langhe nebbiolo, at a very reasonable price. 93+/100. Generally well received by attendees. 'Cherry fruit with grip and tannin.' No sharp edges.' 'The parts fit together even now.'

From over 15 Grand Cru sites of Barolo and a handful of Barbaresco. Aged two years in large Slavonian oak casks. Properly ruddy nebbiolo cast. A beautiful Langhe nebbiolo, always one of the top examples. It's fresher and more forward than the Big Two Bs. Still, it boasts of their sheer class. Well crafted. Yeah, flows easier than the big boys. Nice grip of extract. Very fine grained tannin. Put together right. 92+/100.

Vineyards in Fontanile. Aged 6 months in large French oak cooperage. One sweet smelling nebbiolo. No resistance. Nice cherry, anise, and rose varietal flavors. 2022 forward. Kept honest by some fine grained, chewy tannins in back. Deal. 92/100.

Nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, albarossa, freisa, pinot nero. Skillful assemblage, all harmonious. Airs of cedar and spice point to a whole greater than the sum of the parts. This is really engaging, as well as priceworthy. The palate is also enticingly fruity-spicy and doesn't point to any grape variety in particular, unless it's albarossa, with which I'm not very familiar. I've been pleased with this cuvee before but never so much as in this vintage. Bright acidity plus extract-giving texture. 92/100.

10-30 year old vines on calcaire and sand; aged 5 months in seasoned French oak barriques. Lush and spicy, especially for Alba and 2021. This really is a singular barbera nose. Augmented by barrel time if not barrel extracts. Great 2021 acid. Full, fine grained tannin hems in the lushness on the palate. Watch it go and grow. 92+/100.

Est. 1978; 25 year old vines; aged a year in seasoned cooperage. Wow, this is totally upscale too. Primo site, mature vines, barrel time complexity enhancement. Very suave and sweet in the mouth. Wow, no waitin', no hesitatin'. Worth the price, for sure. 92/100. Red WOTN for at least one attendee. 'Gorgeous wine; great wine to put down.' 'Black cherry and five-spice driven aromas. 'Palate delivers in ripeness, flavors, volume.'

Cheery red violet. Oh, that's good and deep penetrating. Real Alba barbera blackness. A lot of form and precision. Dense, peppery, fully charged. Good price. This is the real deal. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 91/100. My notes: Est. 1953 at La Morra; 20% from marl in La Morra, 80% from sand in Roero. Nose rich and right but less forthcoming than at a Sept trade show (longer aeration then-). Great, splashy fruit acidity and barbera dark disposition. Expands greatly on the palate, while retaining a good measure of fine tannin. 91+/100.

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines. Alba barbera big and dark fruited. Deep cherry and tar aromas. Just as ample on the palate. Great acid, balance, length. You won't find better at this price. Light dusting of tannin at the end. Consistent with past vintages. 92+/100. Very popular with attendees. Dash of VA noted, and liked. 'Really great nose; rich varietal flavor.' 'Good barbera flavors and structure.' 'One of the best barberas I've tasted.'

2018: Parker 91: 'With a beautifully saturated dark color and lots of generous cherry and blackberry, there's a lot packed into this bottle of Braida 2018 Barbera d'Asti Montebruna. The fruit is plump, succulent and packed tight. Montebruna is distinguished by its bright acidity and you get lots of that here too. This is always a terrific wine. Plus, this carries a great price for this category. Drink now-2026.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Aromas of black cherries, tart raspberries and purple flowers intertwine with layers of sweet and savory spice. On the palate, the wine showcases giving characteristics of plum jam and blackberry compote, candied violets and clove while maintaining classic Barbera acidity.'

Est. 1940; single vineyard, one of nine owned by the Forno brothers.; aged a year in French barriques. Heady power. About the biggest Asti barbera I've nosed. Speaks for superiore. Mouthfilling, flavorful. Rounder and more yielding than the nose suggested. That's 2018 talking. Balanced and lasting. 92/100.

Est. 1890; single vineyard on marly soil; aged 9 months in tonneaux. Combo of power, 2020 concentration, Asti barbera relative ease compared to Alba, and gathering bottle bouquet. Well poised. Sweet and juicy and nicely evolved. Really no 2020 tannic resistance on the palate any longer. At a mighty tasty stage of development. Lasting finish. To the table you must go. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'A distinctive red, offering raspberry, blueberry and earth flavors, matched to a supple texture. Shows intensity and balance, with a hint of wild herbs on the savory finish.'

Site specific ('the crossroads'); 30+ year old vines on calcaire; yields of 1 ton per acre; aged in barriques 2-4 years old. Heavy Bottle Award. Smell the power. This is definitely a Superiore take. Not a super fruity Asti barbera. Yeah, fairly loaded with compact, weighty, dark barbera fruit, yet it's different from an Alba barbera all the same. Boy, this can take on the fare usually reserved for Barolos and B'cos. 92+/100. Widely liked by attendees.

Est. 1961; unoaked; succeeds last week's popular 2023. Darker fruited and brisker than the 2023. Stylistically distinctive and just as desirable. Lots of material here; feel the dry matter. Good flavor concentration too. Adheres to its Asti Barbera fruitness as well. I reckon that fans of the 2023 will not be disappointed. 91+/100.

Perrone's a former motocross racer; vineyard in Mongovone planted in 1999; 80% aged in seasoned cooperage; estate bottled. Dark ruby. The freshness and briskness of a cool vintage coupled with the fruit forward nature of an Asti barbera. Classic Asti barbera accessibility. Lovely Perrone styling. 2024 suits it well Spot on. Yes, the anticipated bright and lively acidity and the innate Asti barbera fruit sweetness. Lovely harmony of the two. Just right texture. Long, flavorful finish. Strong series this. 92/100. Widely liked by attendees. 'Fruit forward nose; black cherry, plum.' 'Not tannic; long finish.' Said to have improved into the following day.

Winery est. 1997, after 4 generations of grape growing; barbera specialists. Oh, is that powerful and pungent. Leaps from the glass. In tune with the series. Fruit both dense and bright. Emphatic!/ Very rich for a cool vintage, with 2024 fresh acidity. Flavorful, well textured, lengthy. No tannin issues. Good to go. Always one of the best of its genre. 92/100. 'Bright, fruit forward nose. Palate confirms and shows substance. Good acid. Ready for dinner anytime soon.'

Dark red violet. Moderately intense. Accurate Asti take ohn barbera. It has more give than an Alba version. Cherry and black pepper. Richer mouthful than the nose would suggest. Balance of acid and fruit sweetness. A bargain in its class. 91/100.

2016: Sweet fruit of the DOC. Nice tenderness. Good regional ID, quality, value. Ready for the table. 91/100.

2020: Fresh, dark Asti barbera approach. Yes, black fruited, with both grip and Asti lift. Good vintage of this. Talks zone, grape, growing season, and maker. 91/100.

2019: One year in barrels, 1/3 each new, once used, twice used. Power and volume of a superiore. Fruit forward nature of Asti barbera and 2019. Spot on. Flavorful, racy, spicy, variegated in both taste and texture. Really delivers for the price. 92/100.

Produced by a small Monferrato cooperative for specialist importer The Piedmont Guy; 30-50 year old vines; Ercole = Hercules. Dark ruby. A good and hearty Monferrato barbera as always. Full, barbera dark, and 2023 nice and sweet fruit. Smoky overtones. Defines the genre. Yes, one of the sweetest, fruitiest vintages of the series. Really great fruit acidity and flavor vigor.. and extract. Hefty, black fruited, and still a little tannic, though food would soak that up. Huge range of table apps. Deal! The beat goes on.. 91/100.

2018: Heavy Bottle Award. Oh, this is a dark and deep one, exceptionally so for a Monferrato barbera. Maraia's usually easier going. This one's serious. Well, it eases up a little on the palate. Remains dark hearted. And ambitious. Barbera black to the core. Very popular with the group. Orders taken. 91+/100.

2021: Aged in new Allier oak barriques and in large Slavonian oak casks. This is always a good number, and I think its sophistication and complexity have been enhanced by new-found oak extras. Wow. Black to the heart barbera fruit concentration plus all those woody frills. Yes, plus exceptional power and fruit ripeness for cool 2021. Big, big in the mouth in all respects. Lasting. A bargain, really. 93/100.

2022: Est. 1871; 18% of the production is barbera, this cuvee made for early consumption. Lovely dark maroon. As deliciously user friendly form of barbera as always. Mr. Consistency. Lip smackin' lush and savory. Can't beat the texture nor the flavor. Perfect pitch. Come hither--one glass invites another. Just a dusting of tannin in back to keep it dry and honest. 91/100. Considered a nice value. Orders taken. 'Low tannin, no wood; certainly ready to roll.' Tart cherry taste; good acids.'

A visit to Burgundy in 1976 inspired Elio to move the family's wines toward elegance and finesse. Deep red violet color.This is going to need further aeration. There's a lot of fruit concentration present, but it's not pushing forth much aroma at opening. Very pretty and pure dolcetto all the same. More fruit develops as it warms in the mouth. Shows the good flair of 2021, a good vintage for dolcetto. Extract and some fine tannin will carry it on. Not one of those too big for its boots dolcettos. 91+/100.

Est. 1970s; aged in barrels. Nose basically vinous at this stage, though barrel impact is noticeable. In an aromatic trough at opening. Dry, tannic, and quiet flavor wise. All about structure at this stage, and that's considerable. Ambitious dolcetto in want of more cellar time. Though I admire that, it's not my style of dolcetto. 90+/100. Attendees were split over this one. Comments generally echoed mine. If you prefer a fruity dolcetto, this won't be your cup of tea.

2021: 50+ year old vines; perennial Wed Group favorite. Dark, glowing purple. The usual racy dolcetto fruit statement of this take, complemented and augmented by a cool vintage. Not only that, the aromas run deep too. Sweet and suave for the vintage. House style. Flavorful, mouthfillng, lasting taste. Aims to please. I prefer unambitious dolcettos of this ilk. 92/100.

Four generation winery near Monferrato est. 1911; owns 75 acres of vines. Dark maroon. Fresh, sweet, uplifting. A positive relief after the CdR. In style with the series. Deliciously fruity and flavorful. Nice at its present cool temperature. There is a dusting of tannin though, accentuated by the cool. No problem. Great acidity too. Now or later. 91/100. Attendees enjoyed this. 'A serious wine for aging. Lots of fruit and acid but also bit of tannin.' 'Bright and youthful, with crisp acidity.'

Estate vineyards planted above Vajra's nebbiolo plots; vines 25-30 years old; indigenous yeasts. Jolly medium red violet. About as much lift and freshness as a dolcetto can have. It's almost reduced. Special. Great acid verve. Still a dusting of tannin on the teeth. My kind of dolcetto. Better in 6 months. 92+/100.

2020: That's intricate. Unusual depth, breadth, and contents for dolcetto. Without being woody. Glad I didn't chill it. Oh, it's got acid, freshness, and vigor too. A splendid, singular take on dolcetto. Lush and lasting. Well liked by the group. 92/100.

Vines planted between 1985 and 2015 at 400 to 550 meters on the Pianezzo hillside; calcareous soil; all dolcetto, though the grape name is no longer prominent on the labels. Oh, goodness, is that rich, aromatic, pungent, and forceful in aromatics. Cranberry, raspberry, plum. Just as flavorful and rangy. Acidity and astringency keep it mouthwatering through all the richness. I'm tasting it cool. I'm not sure I'd want it any cooler, as it does have a modicum of fine tannin. One abundant dolcetto; usually is. 92+/100.

Calcareous soil at 1500'; vines planted 1984-1996. Quite a bit of oomph for a Dogliani dolcetto. Not a surprise for this source. Original fruit holding well, while the savors of maturity gather. Very bright and fresh, vivid dolcetto fruit flavor. Plus body and texture. Handsome degree of generosity and fulfillment on the palate. Long finish. Bravo. 92+/100.

Est. 1961; 65 year old vines in sandy white marl. Correct light red orange color. Bright and fresh cherry and citrus zest aroma; also correct. In fact, spot on. Tart and juicy and with a sweet core of ripe fruit to supply harmony. Just a dusting of tannin at the end precludes serving this at a cooler temperature. Textbook all the way. 91/100.

Many vines planted in 1960. Basket pressed. 7 day skin contact. Medium to medium dark ruby. Deep hue for grape and age. Yes, very rich for variety. Outstanding, really. Good grigno flow. Good acid. Just a dusting of tannin in back. Shows the way. 91+/100.

2019: Wine Spectator 92: 'Black currant, violet and rosemary settle nicely into the succulent texture of this red. Firm and elegant, yet shows intensity and fine length. Nebbiolo, Merlot, Barbera and Dolcetto.'

Barbera, dolcetto, nebbiolo, cab sauv. Medium dark neon red. Well executed cuvee. I thought the cabernet might mess it up, but it's an essential piece of the puzzle instead. Plenty of flavor, texture, varietal harmony. Good value. Easy drinkin'. 91/100.

2020: That's a good NW Italy pinot! Works at area and varietal. Yes again. Great acidity. 91/100.

Special clone of brachetto. Pleasingly sweet and proper. Sweet. Very light fizz. Lots of varietal concentration. A winner. 94/100.

Right, lithe, fresh. Replete with red fruit cremes. Lifted. Full of ease and gaiety. All the right assets. 92/100.

Highly scented. Bergamot, barbershop, briar. Signs of brachetto, freisa, malvasia, moscato. This is superior to previous cuvees. Full flavor, sweetness, sprightliness, persistence. 92/100.

Third generation estate. Hint of sulphur can't hide its forthcoming varietal aromatic display. Good thing. Otherwise, it might have been out of service order. No problem. The superior body that comes with higher alcohol content does it justice too. Flavorful. Both fatness and cut. Really pumps out both flavor and texture. Well priced for a Roero arneis. Balanced and lasting finale. 92/100.

2021: Peach, kernel, and a certain nuttiness not usually found in arneis. It's positive, and surprising in 2021. Plenty of varietal glycerol. Flavorful. The acid is buffering. Altogether, a successful and special take. 92/100.

Est. 1950; 50 year old vines in calcareous clay and sand soils across 4 vineyards, including Rensio, first identified with arneis in 1478. Cold sample; nose shy. Warming in the mouth brings out more varietal character. I love the form, the framework; exceptional for the vintage. Good acid. The fruit filling is firm and food worthy. I suppose I like this best for its textural aspects. Good juice. 91/100.

2019: This is bright, fresh, alert, crisp. It offers up a generous noseful of varietal character. And both feel and flavor are full too. Racy acidity. Impressive. Arneis and a half. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 93/100.

A good take and in tune with the series. Not the pushy sort; just accurate. Good balance of acid and sweet fruit. Sits right; versatile at the table. Long, clinging finish. 91/100.

One of the saviors of arneis, Vietti continues to get it right. Substantial oomph here as always and quite a bit of floral varietal character already, though I suspect more will come. Suave, burnished texture is just right. As is the acid ring in the back. Just a splendid example, in tune with the series and one of the prominent vintages. Well balanced to boot. 93+/100.

This is one forceful arneis. Not emphatically fruit driven. Just nostril filling and etching. Like the nose, enough aromatics. Still, its forte is texture and volume. Singular, and fairly priced. 92/100.

Est. 1957; 100% varietal grown in white, loam-rich limestone and clay soils. Full and classic. Lots of presence and solid varietal aroma profile. Well crafted for sure. Subtle and accurate flavors. 2023 fruit forward and well balanced. This all lays right on the palate. A little higher priced than the competition. Fills the bill all the same. 92/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Lovely, distinctive nose. Just delicious flavors.' 'Impressive, well constructed. As impressive as Vietti's, maybe more.'

Est. 1670; vineyard in Roero; favorita = vermentino; cryomaceration; aged 3 months on lees. A nice, cooler climate, higher altitude take on vermentino versus the Sardinian and Tuscan versions. More related to a Cinque Terre version. I applaud its daintiness, its finesse. Undeniable varietal ID, including white flower highlights. Moderate acidity and medium body. Good now. Very popular with the group. 91/100.

Est. 1761; indigenous variety that, like arneis, almost went extinct; now on the rise; first made by Borgogno in the 2019 vintage. It's logically mature and nutty now, without casting off the variety's unique aromatic qualities. Definitely timorasso 'big'. Fruit over nut on the palate, and just as voluminous and generous as the nose suggests. In fact, it's developed its own special varietal interpretation. The power is evident and positive. No aperitif, this. I'm thinking white truffles and pasta. 92/100.

Est. 2015; timorasso, like arneis, almost went extinct. A neat and discreet take in cool 2021 compared to the 2020. More mineral and less stone fruit. More richness and roundness comes out on the palate, more varietal give and flavor. Still, the acid is keen and keeps it refreshing and mealworthy. Ultimately, this well defines timorasso, and at a bargain price as these go. Nice soft landing at the end. 91/100. Intrigued and won attendee respect for its representation of this unique grape variety.

Estate founded in 1913; oldest timorasso vineyard; cuttings from here in the 1980s rescued the variety from extinction; aged a year on lees. More race than richness this cool vintage. I like its poise. I think it will fill out further over the coming year. Yes, less buxom than several we've had lately. But well balanced so worthy of mid term cellaring. Long, clinging finish. This has class. May be more aromatically expressive after a couple hours' aeration. 91+/100. Indeed it was. 'Typical and huge nose and palate.'

Native yeasts; aged 4 months on lees. A good and full, expressive version. Intricate fruits, nuts, herbs, spices. Full, strong, and concentrated palate. This is one of the best, as it's shown in earlier vintages. Well textured and lasting. 93/100.

Mmm. There's that classic pear and sage cortese nose. Couldn't be more telling. Oh, and the flavor is not only just as accurate but also plentiful. Well balanced too. This shows the way. 92/100.

Piemonte winery best known for its old vines Barolo. Good cortese ID and concentration. Yes, pear and sage. Nice 2023 equilibrium, balance of ripe and tart. Flavorful and accurate. Decent, if not striking length and aftertaste. Good value Gavi. 91/100. This thrived with aeration. Maybe WOTN, value considered. Many orders taken. 'Lovely fresh fruit nose. Big delish flavor and great acid.' 'Yellow pear and florals. Weighty palate. Fresh acidity. Herbal essences developing.'

2021: 95 member cooperative founded 1951. Somewhat reticent upon opening. Suggests cortese ID. Oh, but it bursts open after warming in the mouth. Pear, lemon, sage. Fine balance, acid, and texture. Long finish. Prefer to the 2019. 91/100. The nose opened fully for the group 2 hours later. One attendee noted: 'my wine of the night.'

A vineyard in the warmer reaches of southeastern Gavi planted in 1978. Strongly scented of pear and sage. One of the most explicit it this great series. Oh, boy, and the flavor goes on to ace the nose. Generous, well balanced, nicely flowing, most lasting. The complete package. Crisp, refreshing aftertaste. 92/100. Attendees were equally enthusiastic. 'Superb rich nose and palate; lovely ripeness; super delish.' 'Plenty of ripe fruit and body; nice touch of grip on the long finish.'

Est. 1961; all cortese; from the core community of the DOCG. Heavy Bottle Award, especially for a Gavi. Well concentrated and expressive cortese range of pear, sage, and even unripe peach. Pumps it out. Pretty full bodied too, if not as aromatically expressive as the nose. The whole package contents emulate the bottle weight. One satisfying mouthful of Gavi with wide table apps. 92/100.

Est. 1945 at Rovereto, the best sector of the DOCG; no malo. This breaks out the cortese part of the above aromatic set, and neatly done. Allows the cortese sage aroma to come forth, in spades. Classic!/ Oh, so cool and racy. Sage flavor nuances too, maybe the clearest in Gavi I've tasted. Cool and even textured, even balanced. Lasting finish. Great Gavi rep. 92/100. Widely liked by attendees. 'Gavi all the way.' 'Restrained, balanced, refreshing, engaging; clear sage and mineral qualities.'

Light yellow. Good and full bodied take with the tell tale pear and sage aromas. Add citrus on the palate. Keen and juicy in 24 with forgiving soft core for balance. Good length. 91+/100.

From 25 year old vines in calcareous soil at 1000 feet. Nose kinda shy at opening. Needs warmth and aeration to coax it forth. Warming in the mouth brings more out, but I'm still not getting an intense cortese character. Take it away, attendees. And they did. One of the favorite whites. Positive comments; WOTN candidate; orders taken. 'Lots of mineral!! Lots of flavor and fruit too. May need some time.' 'A big Gavi. Thick textured, with sappy tones on the palate and finish.' 91/100.

Owned by the Moccagatta fmaily since the late 70s; 30 year old vines; unique bottle shape inspired by one found in the villa's ancient cellars. Cool, fresh, and firm in the 2024 mode. Classic sage note in the background. More richness and fruit aromas and flavors on the palate. And great acidity. Minerality too. Well balanced. Very, very rangy at the table. 91+/100.

Sauvignon blanc and riesling, plus nascetta from a single vineyard in the village of Anascella in Novello. As always, my nose points out both the sauvignon and riesling, strange bedfellows that Vajra manages to marry well. And that back door johnny nascetta can't be denied. Masterful concoction. In youth, more confined and less demonstrative on the palate. The components are all there though. Great winemaking. 92+/100. Well liked by attendees. 'A lovely wine, even into the next day.' 'Peachy nose and palate; well delineated; grapefruit acidity.'

Fresh, fragrant. Peach, apricot. Flowers. Creamy. Rose, cold cream. Padded with just the right sweetness. Beautiful. 95/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'A benchmark Moscato d'Asti that perfectly balances luxurious richness with brilliant acidity. The wine captures pure sunshine, exhibiting pristine floral aromas and fresh stone fruit that flow seamlessly into a palate of remarkable clarity and definition. The effervescence carries the sweetness with grace and precision, demonstrating why this variety finds its highest expression in Asti. A masterclass in what makes Moscato d'Asti special, showing both power and delicacy in perfect harmony.'

2022: Very, very bright, lifted, even soaring. Sweet and fresh. At a nice stage, yet a few more weeks in bottle will augment its aromatic profile. 92+/100.

2022: Delicate and accurate. Really crisp. Young; just shipped. Sweet and perfumed. Rose and mum. Fabulous. 95/100.

All turbiana; 30 year old vines on white clay. Remarkably different aromatic profile from the Gavi that preceded it, though neither gets into the pungently aromatic field. Mineral dusting over seckel pear. Very intense and pure. The acidity is adequate, and the flavor is up to the aroma profile. Moderately long aftertaste. Will satisfy a wide audience. 91/100. Popular with attendees. 'Mineral driven, good acid cut.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'This wine bursts upward the moment it's poured, exuberant and buzzing with tart pineapple, candied citrus, lemongrass, and the clean scent of wet stone after rain. The texture is bright and crunchy, with tropical fruit spinning through the glass before a final snap of lime tightens everything up. It's fun and fresh, perfect alongside chilled cucumber soup with a touch of bird's eye chili. $25.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Mango, pineapple, and tart grapefruit swirl together with a soft lift of jasmine, giving the wine a sun-soaked yet focused aromas. The texture is plump and mouth-filling; key lime colliding with pineapple cream pie, all wrapped in citrusy tension. A zesty finish keeps it tight and fresh on the salty finish. $27.'

Garganega, chardonnay, tocai, fernanda (cortese), trebbiano; from stony moraine hillside soil above Lake Garda; aged 8 months, partly in barrels. Valid combo. The varieties are Custoza compatible, and the most aromatic, garganega, stands out. On the palate too. Good body. One of the best put together Custozas I've tasted. 92/100. Enjoyed by all attendees, who were surprised by it freshness, aromatic profile, amplitude, balance, and overall class.

Est. 1971; bottling since 1980; 50% garganega, 25% trebbiano, 10% trebbianello, 10% cortese, 5% manzoni bianco; vines 15 to 50 years old. Garganega pit fruits to the fore. Still, there are fascinating nuances supplied by the other varieties. It's Custoza's charge to be multi-varietal. Like Vacqueyras, no two alike. Boy, this is so stimulating for its multiple flavor sensations. Both sensually and mentally. Total tasting entertainment here. Yow. 92/100. Attendees were generally enthusiastic too, adding lime to the aromatic set.

Full. Basic Accurate and generous. Yes, full. Grigio body and texture are its fortes. 90/100.

Wow. This is right. A bit softer than the 2021, which makes sense. Full display of grigio apple and nut sensations. Yeah, rounder than the 21. So full of flavor and varietal character. 92/100.

2023: Est. 1936; by the noted Valpolicella winemaker; made from purchased grapes from growers with whom Cesari has had long term relationships. That's good clear, crisp NE Italy grigio, with classic apple and nuts aroma set. Wow, more textural spiel and flavor intensity than expected. Boy, this really fills the palate with exciting grigio offerings. Lots of mealtime applications. The nose is fine, the palate is exceptional. And the price! 91/100.

2022: Yes, the soft approach of 2022 and the briskness that marks this series. Great winemaking here. Good varietal apple-nut-citrus varietal set. Nice and crisp on the finish. 90/100.

2020: Honors Tiziano Vecellio, greatest painter of the 16th century Venetian school. Fresh, crisp, and grigio full. Just right. Soft, with down the middle acidity. Will please a wide audience. 91/100.

2019: Est 1869 at Tramin; aged in large Slavonian oak casks A rather lean and tart take, which is the usual from these parts. Certainly not severe. There's plenty of varietal character and even an attractive measure of fruit sweetness after aeration. Reads high altitude pinot. More power, texture, body, and flavor ripeness and intensity than the nose suggests. Filling and lasting. I'm impressed. 91+/100.

Est. 1724; centuries old tenuta; site of the signing of the WWI armistice between Italy and Austria; now planted entirely to Bordeaux varieties; 50% cab sauv, 40% merlot; 10% carmenere; aged 2 years in new and seasoned French oak barrels. Linear style like a 2016 claret. Assuaged by a long sojourn in cooperage. High altitude cool aspect, Certainly no green fruit like in some NE Italy 'clarets'. Oh, the palate has real sweetness and suavity, grace and balance. Invites current use. 92+/100.

Undergoes malo in French and Slavonian oak barrels followed by aging in large cooperage. Saturated red violet color. Oh, boy, that's lagrein black cherry to the ultimate. Nose as saturated as the appearance. Full and flavorful. 2022 forward. Good acidity for the vintage spells balance. Lagrein doesn't get much bigger and more explicit than this. Still, it's not too big for its boots. Has that innate elegance of all Walch wines. 92/100. Well liked by attendees for its distinctive character.

2021: 5th generation; Elena is a former architect; schiava aka trollinger, vernatsch. Appropriate medium carmine color. Exceptionally lean and racy in cool 2021. There's a certain tenderness to the palate. It's not as tart as the nose suggests. Europhile alert! 91/100. I nailed it. The Europhiles went head over heels for this.

2021: Aka trollinger, vernatch; 2nd oldest winery in Italy; from the Cornaiano zone; unoaked. This is the real deal. You don't get much more fruit richness from schiava than this. Yeah, nose features black fruit, palate red. Racy schiava acidity for food. This is going to be really rangy at the table, adroitly taking on a wide variety of veal classics. 92/100.

2020: Est. 1961; the region's youngest winegrowing cooperative; northernmost if Italy's vineyards; no malo. That's racy, citrus and tropics sauvignon with high altitude vigor. Totally fresh approaching age two. Focused and flavorful confirmation of the aromas. A little 2020 plumpness to the texture, yet the acidity won't be denied. The group's favorite of the three sauvignons tasted. Orders taken. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'A minerally style, with hints of smoke and gravel underscoring the crunchy pear, fresh tarragon, grapefruit zest and lentil notes. This is chiseled, with good drive and length, including a zesty feel on the white pepper-laced finish. Drink now through 2034. $42.'

From neighboring growers' vineyards on limestone and porphyry; vines 5-50 years old; aged 4 months on lees. Oh, this is nostril filling abundant for the zone and grape. What a treat!/ And, as the nose suggests, there is no shortage of acidity, Plus the generous flavor and texture and body. We all liked the 2021; I like this one even better. 92/100. Praised by all the commentators.

Aged 6 months on lees; 2023 recently tasted and enjoyed. Heavy Bottle Award. Substantial weight to the nose too; always is. Pinot bianco ample green fruits. Good acidity and flow of 2024, without sacrificing this wine's traditional amplitude. You get it both ways! I love a series like this. The wines vary slightly in style per vintage but never in quality. 92/100. An attendee favorite that became more aromatic with aeration, even showing some spice notes. 'Lovely nose.' 'Good structure, with intensity and fruit richness.' 'Textbook.'

2021: 5th generation; Elena is a former architect; steep vineyards on limestone and porphyry, some at 900 meters. Quite a full color for vintage, age, variety. Kinda brassy like a grigio. Subtle, yet there's a deep down in sort of succulence. Surprising body and extract for vintage and variety. She's really drawn a lot out of the juice. Characteristic, subtle flavor profile. Very popular with the tasting panel. Orders taken. 92/100.

The softness and sweetness that is Andriano versus Terlan. Augmented by the nature of the vintage. A very fruity grigio. Sweet and fruity palate too. People pleasing. Always agreeable. 92/100.

Est. 2008; estate includes some of the highest vineyards in the DOCG. Purity, clarity, and high altitude lift of AA grigio. Sets the pattern. Good grigio peels extract body, mouthfeel. Perfect balance in all respects. While more-ish for its zone, it maintains regional finesse. 92+/100. Many positive attendee comments. 'I LOVED THIS.'. 'Distinctive terroir, unique for pinot grigio.' 'Apple, pear, and spice aromatic lift with warming in the mouth.' 'A serious effort.' 'Alto Adige pedigree.'

30 year old vines in the Bassa Atesina sector. High altitude lift and old vines intensity. Really penetrates the nostrils after it warms up a bit in the glass. Good varietal fullness, smoothness, nuttiness. Overall very refreshing and in character with region and variety. 91/100. Liked by attendees. 'Texture, acid lift; astringent element adds interest.

Est. 1893; red porphyry soil. Heavy Bottle Award. Ripe and expressive. More like a Friuli grigio. And I like it. Yes, it's really quite fruity and lush. No denying its Alto Adige acidity though. Good grigio material present. A full and lasting experience for main course applications. 16.8+. Attendees found it big and rich, with minerality for balance. Generally well liked, and expected to improve further. 92+/100.

Est. 1848; fifth generation family estate, one of the oldest in South Tyrol. I can sense the body and grey peels extracts of grigio. On the palate, the varietal character blossoms as the wine warms in my mouth. It's still not terribly expressive yet, but there's such a sense of harmony that I have total confidence in its coming to full fruition in a matter of weeks. 91+/100. Well liked by attendees and reported to stay at the same high plateau into the next day.

2021: From neighboring growers' vineyards on limestone & porphyry; vines 5-50 years old; aged 4 months on lees. Sample cold at opening, and nose understated. Shows nasal volume though. Gains waxy-nutty grigio aspects with aeration. Round and rich grigio feel. Appley, nutty flavors coming on with warmth. Good acid. All around agreeable, well balanced for table service. Old reliable. 91/100. Widely appreciated by attendees for the full body and flavor that aeration magnified.

Est. 1858 in Trentino; vineyards in the Cembra Valley near Lavis. Grigio fullness and apple-nut aromatic profile. Very refreshng. Delicious fruit harmony and really a lot of stone fruit for this variety. Oh, this just hits my palate's sweet spot. And it does sport some sweetness as well as acidity. In balance. 91/100. Attendees loved it. 'Really good nose rich flavor, good acid; nice wine!' 'Nicely balanced weight and acidity.' 'A cut above a basic pinot grigio.' 'Very nice.'

Est. 1928 by the proprietor's great uncle of the same name; from estate vineyards in the Cortina area of the Dolomites. Pungent and nostril penetrating take, as always here. Apple, peel, nut, wax. Tremendous at both body and cut. More wax and less cut on the palate. Full bodied and flavorful. Adequate acidity. This delivers, and that pleases me to no end. Won't quit either. 92/100. Attendees concurred. 'Lots of nose and flavor. A big wine. Mineral and long, with a slightly earthy aspect. Shows some pretty serious skin contact.' 'Great mineral and body.' 'A vanilla aspect but not from oak. Full. Mineral, vinosity, wax.'

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Where sunshine meets glacier carved valleys, Pinot Grigio finds a voice that's impossible to ignore, bringing razor sharp green apple notes that cut clean through the glass. The palate follows through with pure mountain confidence, letting fruit intensity meet salt notes in ways that wake up your whole mouth.'

Wine Enthusiast 94: 'Some valleys hold sacred secrets. Here, where monks have tended vines since 1142, Kerner shows its spiritual side. Fresh herbs and white flowers mix with tangerine spark and stone fruit purity, while the palate brings mountain-carved clarity through layers of tart peach, candied lime, and slate. When tradition meets terroir, this is what you get.'

2019: Parker 92: 'The 2019 Alto Adige Gewurztraminer Tradition offers a pretty, off-gold color with fragrant tones of honeysuckle, star jasmine and tropical fruit. There are heavier, glossy aromas as well that remind me of new rubber boots, saffron and even a touch of cumin. This is a beautifully rich, mid-weight expression of the fragrant Gewurztraminer grape, with some distant stickiness and sweetness.'

Haven't had one of these in awhile. The real deal. Full black fruit. Spot on varietal presentation. Yeah, even bigger, broader, deeper on the palate. Filling, balanced, well textured, lasting. Sweet fruit finish. Great price. 92/100.

Frizzante. Cherry marzemino aroma. Real varietal character. Yes, a fabulous sweet-tart display with violets tones. Fine, spicy, zesty. Positive VA. Good acid. Fizzy, sweet, soft, easy. Raspberry and seeds. Fun. Nice to have one back in the market. 92/100.

60% merlot, 40% corvina; appassimento. Sweet as a nut. Each varietal's character comes through, in tandem. Easy flow and gentle appassimento sweetness balanced by good strength and acidity. One of the best vintages of a solid series. Long aftertaste. 91/100.

Backbone variety of Veronese rossos, including Valpolicella. Heavy Bottle Award. That's corvina black fruited and vintage rich. Good addition to a solid series. Spicy too. Very spicy and flavorful. Just what it should be. Wide ranging table apps. 91/100. Attendees were pretty keen on this. 'Quite pleasant; not too tannic; pretty big wine but very good.' 'Pruny black fruit but freshness too.' 'Not complicated but well structured.'

The Berici hills hills rise between Verona and Vicenza, east of Soave; warmer microclimate than the lowlands, support olive trees as well as Bordeaux varieties, which have been planted there since the 1880s. A very pure, singular form of cabernet franc quite unlike anything from Bordeaux, Loire, or Eastern America. Juicy in the mouth and even more flavorful than aromatic, emphasizing its unique take on the varietal. Racy acidity and just a dusting of fine grained tannin. Well priced. 92/100. Widely popular for varietal ID (with an Italian accent) and kiss of oak.

60% corvina, 40% rondinella; vines 15 - 50 years old. Admirably light red orange. Fresh, superbly fruity and lifted. Looks and smells like a chillable Bardolino all the way. Good and sweet fruit meets crisp fruit acidity. Flavorful and lingering. No tannin to speak of, so chillable indeed. 91/100.

2021: 50% corvina, 35% rondinella, 10% molinara. That's fresh and crisp in 2021. Ideal Bardolino. Plenty of red fruit. Rich and full of flavor. Just the right level of fruit volume to keep the vintage's acidity under control. With extra Classico largesse, this is not a Bardolino to serve chilled. 91/100,

60% corvina, 20% each corvinone, rondinella. Medium dark ruby. Good Superiore richness. This is fuller and richer than the previous vintage tasted. Sweet and suave in the mouth too. Defines Superiore. Deal. 92/100.

By Cantina Negrar in Classico. 60% corvina, 20% each corvinone, rondinella. Sweet smelling for regular Valpol. Some enticing floral highlights. Now that's the weight and style I appreciate in Valpolicella. Not too big for its boots. Red wines don't have to be 'big' to be good. This is a lovely middle weight/ Sweet tasting too. Good acid foil, so balanced. Yes, the levity and flow on the palate, and plenty of flavor. Come hither: one sip invites another. Lasting finish. Very versatile Yes, the levity and flow on the palate, and plenty of flavor. Come hither: one sip invites another. Lasting finish. Very versatile. Ready for the table. Well priced and popularly styled. 91/100.

2018: Lucchine = vineyard name; 25% Corvina, 25% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Molinara, 10% Rossignola, Negrara, Dindarella. This Valpol doesn't back down. The black fruit aromas are strong and forthcoming as is the 2018 vintage's nature. While retaining the proper level of moderation. Plenty of richness, body, and flavor for a Valpol without dried fruit added. Yet these don't exceed my norms for classic, old time Valpolicella. With juicy acidity. Thoroughly satisfying, and versatile at the table. 92/100.

2019: In Valpantena; aged a week on amarone pomace; then aged months in French oak barrels and tonneaux. Almost amarone rich and powerful. Sweet, concentrated fruit and even some raisin not found in many modern ripassos. Lush and large mouthful and -feel. A genuine, full fledged ripasso experience. Yikes! 92/100.

2020: 70% corvina, 15% each corvinone, rondinella. Less sweet and more powerful and full bodied than the appassimento. Not much dried fruit, but it does have the good material of a genuine ripasso. Full bodied indeed. 92+/100.

2016: Super ripe ripasso. There's a daring level of VA too. Brown spices on the palate. Power and sprawl. Definitely adventuresome. Pushes ripasso to the outer limits. 91+/100.

2017: Wine Spectator 91: 'A creamy, medium? to full-bodied red that expands nicely on the palate, leading with baked black cherry and date notes that transition to hints of ferrous mineral, cured tobacco and espresso crema. A tang of citrusy acidity keeps this fresh through to the chewy finish.'

2020: 70% corvina, 30% rondinella; in February following the harvest, pomace from the amarone fermentation is added; aged a year in large oak barrels thereafter. Ripe and dried fruits of real ripasso. Positive earthy undertones. Always reliable and well priced. Yeah, good power and presence. 2020 framework. Dried fruit presence. Proper power. No quickie ripasso. Shows the way. 92+/100.

Est. 1909; 70% corvina, 30% rondinella; in Feb. after the harvest, pomace from the amarone fermentation is added; aged a year in large oak barrels thereafter. With fruity concessions to modernity, there's a lot of classic ripasso expressed in the nose. A good dose of dried berries. Sweet on the palate, especially for a cool year. Less about raisin and more about sweet fruit to taste. Still, it's no quickie appassimento take. A very satisfying vintage of this. 91+/100. Attendees agreed. Positive oak aspects came with aeration, including pipe tobacco and cedar.

2016: Parker 90+: 'The 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Capitel San Rocco shows great dark fruit intensity, spread over a rich mid-weight style. I found the breezes of rosemary essence and eucalyptus oil to be very distinctive and nice. It's the perfect choice for roasted lamb with garlic and rosemary potatoes, and it's a great value too, thanks to the 100,000 bottles made. This wine was first produced in 1976, and the Tedeschi family was among the first to use the Ripasso method in Valpolicella in its commercial winemaking.'

In Valpantena; corvina, corvinone, rondinella; grapes dried 3-5 months; aged two years minimum in once and twice filled French oak barrels and tonneaux. Heavy Bottle Award. Medium dark red. Good amarone power countered by ripe and raisined fruit sweetness and concentration. Smells like a proper amarone..at a damn good price!/ Power contained. Sweetness over raisin on the palate pushes it toward the modern style. Balance of strength, sweetness, acidity. Will age well, but that's not required for present service. Best vintage I've tasted. 94+/100.

Wine & Spirits 92: 'This Amarone shows a bright core of sour-cherry flavor that expands to notes of apple skin, orange peel and gingery spice. The fresh fruit tones, taut tannins and dry finish make this a versatile match for grilled game or roast pork.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'This structured, medium? to full-bodied red shows good length and tension while still offering expressive notes of sun-dried cherry, dark chocolate, spiced orange peel and smoke. Lively on the palate, with chewy tannins firming the herb-laced finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Rossignola. Drink now through 2035.'

Est. 1957; from San Polo di Piave in Treviso; 10 hour cryomaceration; aged 4 months on lees. Nice and grassy, even nettle-y cool climate sauvignon nose. Cool, penetrating citrus notes chime in. Suave and almost peachy on the palate. Three ring circus of aromas and flavors. The 24 acidity is well countered by fruit richness. Unique take from a sleeper source. 92/100. This really exploded with gooseberry, grass, and cat pee signature flairs. And keen acidity. Liked by most attendees but a little much for some tastes.

2020: That's good, unwooded, cool climate chardonnay. Round in texture, with good acid cut. 91/100.

Pleasing tete a tete of soft and sharp aromatics. Good intensity. Full and flavorful. Rightly green fruited. 91/100.

Est. 1906; half each cortese, garganega; hillside (colle) vineyard capped with lime trees (tigli). Vibrantly explicit perfumes of these superior northern Italian white natives. Perhaps the most pointed and penetrating in this series. Wow. And the flavors are equally abundant and forthcoming. Can't get around the 'lime' suggestion. Glad the alcohol is modest (12.5%). Otherwise, I'd drink enough of this to get smashed. 92/100.

Estate bottled; hillside vineyards within a volcanic basin; basaltic and limestone soils; all garganega. Somewhat reticent at opening and cold temp, but not too much to suppress the aromatics and integrity of garganega. Warms in the mouth to reveal additional varietal white fruits and flowers beauties. Perfect balance, great texture. Very satisfying, and will perform even better after it airs and warms. 16.6+. And it did. 'Great balance and lots of glycerine.' 'This is real Soave.' 'Great acidity against substantial palate weight.' Even better the next day.

2021: Well, this talks the Classico and the garganega talk. Full. Truly 'suave'. Really develops aroma and texture interest as it airs. Well, all of the above. Full of texture and flavor. A true Classico. 91/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94: 'This Soave is a masterclass in finesse, with layers of texture that unfold like the pages of a well-crafted novel. Each sip reveals a new chapter, a new depth to explore. The wine's mouthwatering acidity is like a lively conversation, keeping you engaged and thirsty for more. This is a serious wine, with a taut and firm structure that suggests it will only improve with age. Orchard fruits take the lead, but they're not alone—a serious mineral bent joins the party, adding a rocky, almost austere edge. This Soave is really good a wine to remind one to appreciate the finer things in life. $17.'

All garganega grown in basaltic soil. A little SUS, but I can get through it to ID garganega aromatic class and generosity, as well as a lot of 2024 dash. One of the best vintages of this I've nosed. Throw in cedar and spice on the palate and you really end up with a unique and exciting package. Is that the basalt contribution? The balance is ideal, the texture something special. A top year in an always desirable series. 92/100. Widely praised; WOTN for at least one. 'Real garganega; a really stand up version.' 'Spring water fresh, crisp, great minerality.' 'Just dandy.'

A cru on the most recent and evident volcanic cones of the Soave system; 90% garganega, 10% trebbiano. Heavy Bottle Award. Wow, that sports a pungent and rangy and full bodied garganega aromatic expression. Terroir matters. Weighty and full textured too. Balanced and long. This is pushing the Pieropan crus. Can you believe the price? Did I make a miscalculation? Nope. Just checked. Marcato is a great winemaker. 92/100. Well liked by all, especially at the price. 'Lots of wine here. Big, typical palate. Rich and long.' Airs very well. Good structure. Weighty for a Soave, so table worthy. Great value!!'

Wine Enthusiast 96: ' Crystalline and focused, this vintage of Calvarino magnifies the distinct aromas of Soave's volcanic soil with hints of smoke and flint. As the wine opens, aromas of lemon oil, white peach, jasmine and green apple skin lift from the glass. The wine is 3D in the glass with vertical and horizontal flavors filling the mouth while fresh acidity lifts the palate. Flavors mirror the palate with the addition of a hint of marzipan finishing with an energy that hints towards the ageability of the wine. $55.'

By Cantina di Negrar; garganega, trebbiano di soave, chardonnay. Wow, that's fresh, crisp, and upbeat Soave. Good garganega orchard fruit aromas, trebbiano flow, and chardonnay filler. Well crafted. Proper all around for grape set, terroir, and vintage. Flavor and texture more impressive than nose promises. Now, here we have something. Better than just proper. Rich, great acid foil, so balanced. Lasting. Deal. 92/100. Attendees agreed; very popular; orders taken. 'Very Soave from nose to palate.' 'Full palate for a Soave.' 'Fleshy texture and underlying acidity for balance.' 'Reasonable price.'

All garganega grown on south facing slopes. Lean, linear, sleek 2024 styling. Not an ounce of fat on this body. Garganega aromatic complexities grow with warmth and aeration. Bye, bye trebbiano di soave!/ Well, it does have a measure of welcome padding. Lots of lift, in part thanks to the modest alcohol level (11.5%). Long, flavor-building finish. Quite a contrast from the last two vintages, yet on an equal plane, quality wise. 92+/100. Very popular with attendees. WOTN for at least one attendee. Orders taken. 'Typically flavorful and long.' 'Textbook Soave.'

2022: Scarpetta is a brand developed by Bobby Stuckey, MS, and former French Laundry chef Lachlan Patterson, lovers of Friuli wines. This one, of 80% chardonnay and 20% friulano, really charmed me at a trade tasting earlier this month. Perfectly harmonious varietal concept. Full of personality. Its own thing. One glass invites another. Great value. 91/100.

Strong and penetrating gooseberry aroma. Even more so than the 2023. Plus pink grapefruit on the palate. Crisp and satisfying. Wide meal time apps. 92/100.

Vineyard in the Collio hills near Gorizia; winemaker Robert Princic, owner of Gradis'ciutta. Oh, boy. That has a lot of oomph, especially for a cool vintage. Lots of admirable grigio peel extracts. Apple and nut classic. Palate just as ample. Textbook intro to Friuli pinot grigio at a handsome price. Gives and gives through a long, flavorful finish. 91/100.

2022: Mainly from Colli Orientali. Friuli grigio body and light apple-wax-nut varietal character. Bursts open in the mouth. More body, more flavor, more grigio peels extracts. Fine acid, balance, texture. We've got ourselves a bargain here. 91/100. Attendee descriptors and compliments pretty much parallel mine. Continued to improve with aeration into the following day.

Estate bottled by the Anselmi family at Latisana; 20 year old vines. Oomph, class, and clarity of Friuli grigio. Apple, nut, wax varietal attributes. Full for the price. And flavorful. Add melon to the set. Well balanced and fully ready to serve. Deal. 91/100. Judged a good value by attendees. 'Quite a bargain.' 'Can't be beat at the price.' 'Spring time fresh, good volume; apple, pear flavors.'

2022: Large and generous and spot on. Full in the mouth too. Just right for its genre and price. 91/100.

2022: Est. 1878; estate bottled. This has sauvignon gooseberry and grass aromatic, but subtly so, not in your face. It's always that way. I love it. Good acid to balance the 2022 relative plushness. Ultimately, totally harmonious and ready for the table, where it will prove more versatile than those gregarious NZ takes. 91/100. 'Gun flint' noted. Attendees appreciated its lack of aggressiveness. 'Very long and very easy to enjoy.'

Vineyards around Udine and Pordenone, close to the Adriatic. Oh, boy, super intense lime, mango, and passion fruit aromas, so pointed and penetrating. These are always the characteristics here but rarely with such vivacity. Almost as exuberant on the palate. Good acidity. My oh my, what a value. 92/100. Widely liked by attendees and considered a best buy.

One of only 50 estates listed in Luigi Veronelli's original Italian wine 'bible'; Ronchi di Gramogliano is a cru; north facing slope; no malo; 6 months on lees. More to this than the other NE Italy sauvignons I love. But less forthcoming in youth. A sense of special terroir. Yeah, less incisive, more bountiful in mouthfeel. I suspect this will show better after aeration. For now, for me, it's more about potential than present showmanship. 91+/100. Attendees judged it unique among Friuli sauvignons. Skin contact suspected; lees influence noted.

One of only 50 estates listed in Luigi Veronelli's original Italian wine 'bible'; Ronchi di Gramogliano is a cru; no malo. Heavy Bottle Award. This has nutty grigio character. And body. Both. Plus weight and balanced. 2024 acidity is well assimilated. Well done. 91/100. White WOTN. 'Lots of rich PG character. Long finish. Should be really good with some air.'

Clear sauvignon citrus and soft tropical fruits character. Perfectly bright and fresh still. Great flavor intensity, a little burnished with bottle age. Great acidity. Really quite full bodied. That's Collio. Lovely now. 92/100.

Ancellotta, maestri, salamino; 8 gL RS. This really speaks of the more expressive lambrusco sub varieties. Big time aromatic surge and clarity. Wow. Yes, rightly sweetish, with good acidity to balance. One of the best lambruscos I've tasted, and totally food worthy. 93/100.

Bright, dark, cheery red violet. Sweet raspberry and some peppery seeds. Spot on. Deliciously sweet, well foiled by good acidity. If the gas were still present, that would buffer the sweetness further. Exemplary, and..well priced. 92/100.

2020: Full color. Light frizzante sparkle. High aromatic intensity pushed forth by its mousse. Buoyant and rich raspberry aroma. Racy. Full fruit and flower. Brisk tartness. Yow! The real deal. 92/100.

2022: Wine Enthusiast 93: 'The color of this wine is a stunning deep-red verging on purple. The aromas are full of ripe plums and black cherries. This juicy fruit is in balance with the more gamy, earthy and herbal notes that appear on the midpalate. Lush but balanced, it delivers a fresh pop of acidity on the finish to make the second glass as easy as the first.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'The wine boasts a remarkably light hue and vibrant candied fruit tones, particularly strawberry and cranberry. On the palate, these flavors evolve into a refreshing blend of lemon and raspberry notes, culminating in a bright and zesty finish.'

2021: Wine Enthusiast 96 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Shows a fresh nix of strawberry, boysenberry and pomegranate that gives way to intense floral notes, wild herbs and game.'

Est. 2012; 1200 winegrowers; vines 5 - 20 years old; frizzante; dry; James Suckling 92/100. Red black and fizzy. That's the dark and cool salamino version of the lambrusco family. Right on. Light sweetness nicely cut by the fizz. Nice and lasting texture which further curtails the sweetness. This really begs for food. 91/100. Generally liked. 'Meaty nose, fruity palate. Needs a mortadella sandwich.' 'Almost a raw beef nose; tart cherry crisp acid. Gulpable. For casual fare.'

All sangiovese; aged a year in oak cooperage. 18 sweet, Romagna sangiovese fresh and lifted, riserva barrel assuaged to the right degree as not to dominate the original fruit. Ho, hum, just another great bargain in this series. Sangiovese dried cherry and orange peel. More flow, less grip than the Tuscan sangiovese norm. Versatile at the table. Pleasing and harmonious overall. 91/100.

Est. 1988. Long title, and I didn't even include all of it! Most mature and most southern nose of the reds so far. Makes sense. Dried cherry and orange zest sangiovese in the lighter than Tuscany Romagna vein. Flows nicely, as a Romagna sangiovese should. There's plenty of grip in back though giving it serious substance, texture. Good juice and good for current drinking. 91/100. Following aeration, attendees noted a prominent barrel aspect. The wine's maturity was appreciated.

51 - 49. Medium dark ruby. The lighter Emilia style of sangioves nicely joined by sweet merlot of just the right degree of ripeness. Good vintage of this. Medium bodied. Well balanced. Consistently satisfying value. 91/100.

2018: Made solely in Romagna since the 13th century; adesso = now. All refosco. Warm, ripe, robust, and sweet. Yes, all about sweetness, zestiness, spiciness. Like Christmas cake. As intended. Has a steady following. 91/100.

2021: Great crispness of 2021 coupled with sweet, honeyed, nutty albana character. Yes, both sweet and racy. Flavorful, well balanced. Full appeal. A good vintage indeed. 91/100.

55% chardonnay, 45% riesling; 10% of the chardonnay barrel fermented; partial malo; aged 4 months on lees in tonneaux. The chardonnay component is turning a little rusty. Riesling is faring well, with both fresh fruit and terpene expressions. Well, this rallies on the palate. No rust at all. And malo creaminess. Riesling stone fruit flavors. Body and texture to satisfy. Wild concept. Worth the special price as a satisfying meal time drink. Name that entree. 91/100. Attendees admired its stamina and its clear display of each variety. List price: $20.

2017: 60% merlot, 30% cab sauv, 10% cab franc. Aged in seasoned barrels. Deep, dark color, especially for 2017. Generous black fruits. Rich, abundant. Full fruited. Sweet fruited. Fine Tuscan take on claret. Shows barrel aging too. Very rich and round. Ripe and sweet, large and generous. Good acid and fine tannins balance it out. Again, a sense of barrel time. Stellar value. 92+/100.

Alicante nero (grenache), with mourvedre, carignan, sangiovese, and alicante bouschet. Medium carmine,/ A sweet smelling, well coordinated melange. Come hither. Sweet fruit on the palate too. Good acidity for balance. Flavorful and even handed through the finish. No brainer. 91/100. Popular with attendees for the very same reasons I expressed. ' Good fun. 'Lots of flavor and doesn't need aging.' 'Spicy, peppery, and refreshing.' 'Good acid and little or no tannin.'

2023: From Chianti Rufina. Rich red and black fruits. A modern, accessible style of sangioves. Soo alluring on to sniff!/ Oh, year, big time rich, fruity, spicy palate, with just the right balance of fruit sweetness and acidity. Best vintage yet of this consistent winner. 91/100.

2018: Younger, deeper, darker than the 2017. More-ish. Oh, yeah, luxurious dark fruit coats the palate. Loaded. 92/100.

2019: This cuvee of cabernet, merlot, and sangiovese, a creation of ace importer Neil Empson, was a favorite of mine for decades. I laid some down, and it aged exceptionally well for a wine in its price range. Then later vintages seemed to lighten up, to lose some of the former intensity, perhaps to achieve earlier drinkability. With Covid and the dearth of supplier trade shows during and after, it''s been several years since I've sampled a Monte Antico. The just-tasted 2019 is a revelation. Monte Antico is BACK! 91+/100.

2017: Est. 1998 in southern Maremma; cab sauv, merlot, alicante, petit verdot, cab franc; half aged in French oak barriques and tonneaux, 1/4 new. With over six years of barrel and bottle aging behind it, this is suave and well bouqueted. The oak is fully married to the fruit and the varieties well coordinated with one another. Whole greater than the sum of the parts. Yes, suave, smooth textured, and well advanced in bouquet development. Good acid and a fine measure of tannin for structure. Ideal Caburnio thanks to age and vintage. 92/100. Very popular with attendees.

95% sangiovese, 5% canaiolo; native yeasts. On the rugged side. 2020 tannin even on the nose. Dryness and dry extract. Well, the palate is more forgiving. Sweet, dried cherry sangiovese fruit. Which coats the tannin nicely. This has a lot of material. Will take on many a tomato based pasta dish. The nose will probably soften and spread out nicely with more bottle age. 91+/100. Popular again. Tastes like a classy Chianti.' 'Structure, acid, ripe fruit, extract; well managed barrel influence.' 'Quite complex, long flavors, well done.'

2017: Wine & Spirits 96; Wine Enthusiast 94: 'The nose is a thicket of bushes dotted with dark berries, whose sweetness pierces the damp aromas of soil and stone after a rain. On the palate, acid elevates that tension between tart fruit and earthiness, before a mocha finish glides through clingy tannins.'

At Montalcino. All sangiovese grosso. 10 year old vines. Jolly ruby color. It does smell like brunello, as distinct from regular sangiovese. Bravo. Distinct and distinctive. Good bright acid for the vintage. Flavorful. I've always enjoyed this, never more that the 2022 here. Yes. 92/100.

At Montalcino; vineyard at 1500'; planted 2000-2004; 85% sangiovese, 10% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged 10 months in neutral cooperage. Very mellow, modern take. Rarely find such sweet smelling Tuscan sangiovese. The time in cooperage adds spice and forward display. Quite powerful too. No problem with the acidity. There is a bit of fine grained tannin to keep it honest too. Long, even keeled aftertaste. Wide appeal, and wide apps at the table. Generally liked by the tasting panel. 91/100.

Brunello estate at Montalcino; 90% sangiovese, 10% colorino; no oak. Medium dark ruby. Well scented, elegant take on southern sangiovese. Is it the brunello clone? Likely not. Lots of fruit and lift in cool 2024. Just a delicious, harmonious, suave mouthful. Come hither. One glass invites another. 91/100.

Young appearance still at age five. And very fresh and black fruited. Some Bordeaux grapes involved? The 2019 had 10% merlot. Yes, sweetly fruity and forward but seemingly younger than its years. One of the best Puccinis I've tasted. Easy drinking now. 91/100.

50% sangiovese, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot; in Greve; vine age 7-32 years; aged a year in large Slavonian oak cooperage. Well put together Super Tuscan. There's the sangiovese dried cherry and orange peel basis as well as the darker aspect of cabernet and sweeter demeanor of merlot. And cooperage time to meld all together. Yes, a complex of varietal flavors in an harmonious presentation. No tannin issues. Good acid. Useful now. Likely to gather more bottle bouquet if cellared further. 92+/100.

2023: Est. 1996 in Bolgheri; vermentino vineyard planted 2003 in Maremma; 5% viognier. More body from its extra degree of alcohol. Very bright pit fruit varietal character, the viognier minority in sympathy and, to a degree, complexing. Plump and flavorful, with good acid and alcohol to counter its innate richness. Long lasting varietal flavor spectrum. Well priced in its field. 91/100.

From estate vineyards in Montecarlo. A little cooler and firmer than the popular 2023. Tasted younger. Varietal character is emerging with warmth and air. Very racy in the 2024 fashion. Good varietal padding too, as well as ripe acidity. Many table apps here. Delicious balance. Long and even keeled finish. 91+/100. Thrived with aeration. An attendee favorite; WOTN for at least one; orders taken. Praised for varietal class and character and, once again, acidity.'

Chardonnay, malvasia, grechetto, trebbiano. The bookend varieties dumb down the aromatic profile, while the middle two push through with some green flower pungency. Unique. I can see the chardonnay presence for its body building dynamic. More personality on the palate. More support for its encepagement. The pieces of the puzzle fit together really nicely on the palate to supply a pretty full bodied, harmonious, and flavorful whole. Lasting 2023 sweet-tart balance. 91/100. Popular with attendees. 'Quite an aggressive nose and palate; unique.'

55% sangiovese, 15% canaiolo, 10% each syrah, cab sauv, merlot; all varieties grown in Montecarlo since the early 1900s; aged partly in barriques for 7 months. Lovely deep and dark maroon. Very intriguing, almost ventilating nose. Call it unique. Equally so on the palate. The varietal pieces all fit together perfectly. Would never be mistaken for a Chianti or even a Super Tuscan. Wine of place. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 92/100. This sleeper was widely judges WOTN. 'A fine, complex nose. Rich and complex together. Really nice wine and value.' 'Cherry complexity, well managed barrel influence, and some floral elements melded together.'

Straw wrapped fiasco.

Est. 1855; all sangiovese; from Chianti Rufina. Fresh, cool, black Rufina area style of sangiovese. Surprising crispness. That echoes in good acidity, especially for 2022. Flavorful. Plenty of body and texture and aftertaste. Another winner in this series, none two quite alike. All good bargains. 91/100. Popular for both price and quality. Someone brought pizza, and it worked great with it. 'Maybe the best in the series; light vanilla aspect.' 'Great value; well built.' 'Ready for a casual meal.'

2017: 5 generation family winegrowers at Rufina. Fruit freshness retained through the barrel aging process, which adds depth and dimension. The dark sangiovese style of Rufina. Yes, bright black fruit flavor and acidity tempered by barrel aged suavity. Especially good acidity for 2017. 91/100.

Est. 1934 at Firenze; mostly sangiovese. Dark ruby. Straight ahead and typical nose. Sweet and ripe on the palate. Both tannin and astringency on the back palate. Plentiful acidity. Lengthy. 91/100. A very popular value with attendees. 'Very true; great flavor; well made; super value. ''Real bargain in everyday drinking.'

85% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo, 5% malvasia. Heavy Bottle Award. Medium dark maroon. That's pretty heady. Malvasia adds a sweet smell. Fresh and forthcoming. Good 2024 acid counters malvasia's sweet approach. Fine grained tannin on teeth. Flavorful finish. Will likely improve. 91+/100. Widely liked by attendees, who suspected some carbonic maceration might be involved. 'Spot on nose, flavor. Nice fruit; easy to drink.' 'Fruit driven nose. Pleasant tartness. For the table. Will show even better with food.'

95% sangiovese, 5% colorino. That bright and dark fruited lift of Rufina sangiovese. Solid follow up to the popular 2022. Seems even more concentrated. Yes, more-ish by comparison. Darker, more fruitful, more intense. While pretty much devoid of tannin so drinking well now. Good acid for balance. Tasty tad. 91/100.

2020: 80% sangiovese, 20% merlot. Plenty of sweet, black merlot filling. With sangiovese dried cherry and citrus peel emphasis on the palate. Great acidity. I like this source. Mouthwatering rosso for food. 91/100.

2016: Dark, with a ruddy rim. Sangiovese transformed by time in cooperage. Not overtly woody. Just barrel tempered. Juicy cherry and orange rind sangiovese flavors. Good acid of course. Fine tannin. More about solidity than elegance. Still rather enclosed even into the second evening. I suggest cellaring this a spell. 91+/100.

Est. 1730; 90% sangiovese, 10% ciliegiolo; aged 4 months in large cooperage; unfiltered. Light to medium scarlet. Fresh, sweet, brisk. Sports a cool vintage disposition for this cuvee. The expected high acidity. Really very tangy, mouth watering. Little or no tannin. Wide table apps. 91+/100.

2020: A rich, sweet smelling vintage of this, especially for CCF. Just the vintage or a change in approach-/ Quite large and powerful for its DOCG. 2020 structure. Seems stronger than 13.5%. Can't fault it for generosity. 91/100.

Sangiovese, colorino, merlot, cab sauv. That's different from the Frescobaldi Chianti Classico that preceded it. That's Rufina black fruited take on sangiovese. Fresh and upbeat. Yes, on the young side of riserva. More fruit than barrel. Youthful in development and tannin. Good cellar candidate. 91+/100.

95% sangiovese, 5% colorino; aged 18 months in French barriques, 12 months in bottle. The relative levity of 2021 compared to the last several vintages. Rufina dark fruited and racy. Sweet sangiovese on the palate. Ripe, with dried cherry and dried orange peel flavors. Substantial and well textured, with some tannin to shed. Big in the mouth, really. 91+/100. Very popular with the group, as always. Noted to be more forward than the 2020 tasted recently, but with a 'sense of latency'. 'Really nice.' 'Great price/quality ratio.' 'Excellent balance.'

2022: Est. 1827; vines planted 1978-2003; 95% sangiovese, 5% canaiolo and colorino; native yeasts. The blacker fruit and higher altitude brightness and elegance of Rufina versus Classico. Yes, this is the hallmark Rufina. Warm and savory in mild 2022, yet the acid it more than adequate. Full flavored, neatly built, upscale, lasting. Shows the way. 92+/100.

11th century roots; sangiovese, canaiolo, colorino; aged 6 months in barrels. A cool, crisp, bracing nose. A Chianti with Rufina race and vintage structure. Exceptional flow for this usually firm cored vintage. I guess that at age five its wines are finally loosening their grip. Even handed, with light tannin and good acid, it begs for food. 91/100. WOTN; orders taken. ' 'Wow. This is what I want all mature Chianti to smell and taste like.' 'Super long.' 'Ready now and unbelievably delicious.'

11th century roots; sangiovese, canaiolo, colorino. Heavy Bottle Award. Clearly the most mature red wine of the set, further advanced by riserva barrel aging. Distinct from the above Chianti, it has Rufina darkness and altitude lift, and the added cooperage and age aspects. Suave and nicely burnished by the process. Great acidity. Tannins resolved. 92/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Lovely palate, fresh and fruity; long.' 'Some development, smoothness.' 'Notes of spice and tobacco.'

At Castelnuovo Berardenga in southern Classico; 85% sangiovese, 15% merlot; aged 10 months in 2 and 3 year old French oak barrels; 2022: Wine Spectator 93 ? #3 Top 10 Best Values.Tremendous depth and concentration with barrel complexities well engaged. Wow, first class CC nose. Rich and round and ready. Flavor, volume, range, depth, weight, acid, balance. Melted tannins complete the textural picture. 93+/100. WOTN for many attendees. Great structure and acid. Tannins firm but not over the top. Excellent!' 'Smooth and ripe, moderate tannins, good balance, well done. Will age easily.' 'Almost sweet nose and palate plus some tannins. A very good wine that will reward lots of time.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'Vibrant and bursting with cherry, strawberry and rose flavors, this red also shows a solid structure. Remains fresh and balanced while playing out on the long, fruit-, earth? and mineral-filled aftertaste. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink now through 2038.'

At Radda; all sangiovese; aged a year in Slavonian oak barrels. Tasted after a Langhe nebbiolo: Ah, nebbiolo, then sangiovese. The cherry tete a tete. Here it's dried cherry. A nice, middle weight CC rep. Good acid. Both grip and flow. Straight down the middle Classico with some age potential. Good price. 91+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Aromas of peonies, rose petals, citrus blossoms, new leather and fresh fennel swirl together on a floral, saline nose, before a palate where wild cherries, strawberries and more citrus notes join the fun. On the finish, herbs take over for the flowers and work with taut tannins for a savory effect. $25.'

2021: Fresh, logical style of a Greve, northern Classico. Vintage elegance and acidity. This is a throwback Classico and eminently mealworthy. Yes, the acidity of the north and the vintage. Positively needs food. 91/100.

From Greve in the north, whence come elegant Classicos; aged 10 months in French oak barrels. It does indeed exhibit the charm of a Greve classico. As well as the cherry fruited sangiovese generosity of 2018. Spot on. Yes, medium to full bodied, full flavored, well balanced by sangiovese's innate fruit acidity. Picture perfect for present service. 92/100.

2019: In Greve; 90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo; minimum 6 months in oak casks. This has Carpineto and vintage lift, clarity, freshness, lack of the usual dried cherry and orange zest aroma of many a Classico--as attractive as that is. Yes, it's sweet fruited. Modern? No, just house style. The palate is true-dry, the tannins fine grained, the acid proper. Even handed and upscale as usual. Upholds this estate's high standards. 92+/100. Wine Of The Night for many attendees, and considered ready to drink.

Wine Spectator 93 - #25 TOP 100: 'This beefy red relies on its dense texture, concentrated flavors of black cherry and blackberry fruit, and muscular tannins to get its message across. Wild herb, iron and earth notes add depth, while the finish is long and spicy. Best from 2027 through 2043.'

Sangioveto and canaiolo grown in limestone soil; aged in seasoned barrels. Medium dark garnet. Nice and fruity as always. Perhaps a little denser and more reserved than usual, but, then, it's at cellar temperature for a change. Yes, fruity but drier and more austere at this temp. And more tannic, though it's fine. If it were warmer, it would be right in tune. 92+/100. This warmed up nicely for attendees, whose comments were more in line with what I expect of this CC. 'Combo of modern and traditional Great fruit and nose.' Round, ripe, and more fruit driven than many CCs.' 'Wonderful down the road yet drinkable now. Love it.'

92% sangiovese, 8% merlot. 12-18 months in French oak cooperage. Ruddy red color. Sweet, ripe, glycerol laden sangiovese nose. Medium bodied and right. Good ease and flow of 2019. Spicy aroma. I smell a good value. Good acid foil to the glycerol. A trace of youthful bitterness in the back. Spicy aroma. Medium bodied, balanced, no tannin issues. Regular fans will be pleased. 91+/100.

All sangiovese; aged a year in seasoned tonneaux and barriques. The warmth, richness, and power of southern Classico. Nasal presence if not a lot of fruit development yet. Seems cooperage influenced as usual. All the elements are present, several nascent still. Wow, a mouthful. Usually is. Power, wood, tannin, acid, texture, body. Real Felsina oomph. Impressive future. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 95 - TOP 100: 'The core of cherry, pomegranate and raspberry fruit is detailed with Tuscan scrub, iron, vanilla and tobacco notes as this intense red builds in power to the expansive conclusion, where its fruit, mineral and wild herb flavors converge. Shows fine balance and length; this just needs time to absorb the oak. Best from 2027 through 2043. $40.'

Wine Spectator 93: 'This rich red is signaled by earth and tar aromas, with flavors of black cherry, plum and iron standing up to a dense matrix of tannins. Shows breadth and power, with an aftertaste of dark fruit, earth and soy. Best from 2024 through 2037.'

Village name dating from 998; estate owned by the Bianchi family since 1962; in western Classico halfway between Firenze and Siena; based on the sangioveto clone of sangiovese, with 10% each colorino, canaiolo. Fresh and full fruited, with a decided riserva oak complexity. Big time CCR. Always is. Sweet and suave on the palate. Full bodied. The oak is well integrated. This has it all..and more to come! 93+/100.

Our first zone-specific Chianti Classico; all sangiovese; vines planted in 1998, 2000, 2003; native yeasts; aged 3 years in seasoned cooperage. Oh, that's the spicy red fruit of Gaiole. Justifies the new zone ID system. Old vines give intensity. GS barrel time gives suavity and complexity. Creamy barrel earned texture up front finds a balancing fine grained tannin in back. Generous spectrum of flavors and textures. A bargain in its class, and zone specific to boot. 94+/100. Attendees were in awe. In orders taken dollar-wise, WOTY.

Est. 1730; At Gaiole; est 1730; 90% sangiovese, 5% each canaiolo, colorino; aged 1 year in large casks; unfiltered. Like the Chianti, from a cool vintage, but here there is much more color saturation. And richer, riper deportment. Please barrel contributions helping to make for a complex presentation. Racy vintage acidity mated to more fruit ripeness than the Chianti features. The tannin is nicely coated and the whole package well balanced. 92+/100. Attendees agreed; highly rated. 'Highly aromatic, almost perfumed.' 'Oh yeah! Smells the role, deep and classic. Palate follows with a rich, quality fruit. Lovely length.'

At Gaiole; 95% sangiovese, 5% canaiolo; aged 18 months in barrels and large casks. Dark red violet. Large and significant CC riserva with all its aspects of superior fruit, well integrated barrel extracts, and range and depth earned from time in cooperage. Well done. Palate speaks for balance of all elements. Good acidity and both fruit and oak extracts. Well managed tannins that food will take up but give this cellar potential too. 93+/100. WOTN for many. 'Super good and mature.' 'Very classy and classic.'

Wine Spectator 93: 'Though lean and intense, this red is also sinewy, its tannins framing flavors of cherry, juniper, tomato leaf and iron. The vivid acidity picks up midpalate, driving the tightly wound, succulent finish. Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Drink now through 2040.'

2020: 90% sangiovese, with canaiolo, colorino; aged 14 months in Alliers oak casks and barrels; unfiltered. Ripe, dark, and intense 2020 style. This really runs deep. And it shows positive barrel contributions that add aromatic range. Even more flavor than aroma complexity. Chewy texture, full constitution. Worth cellaring to more suavity and bottle bouquet. I love this estate's wines. 92+/100.

Parker 91: 'Made with 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Pugnitello, the 2021 Chianti Classico proves to be a versatile wine and a fundamentally food-friendly choice with lots of purple and blue fruits with hints of fragrant wild rose. The wine supports medium weight and lots of fresh acidity to cut through cream or butter-based cooking ingredients. Drink 2023-2027.'

Wine Spectator 93 - TOP 100; 'Offers cherry and plum fruit framed by earth, mineral and wild herb flavors. Poised between elegance and power, this red is beautifully balanced. Dusty tannins support the fruit on the long finish. Best from 2026 through 2042.'

At Panzano near Greve; all sangiovese; aged a year in Slavonian oak cooperage. Laid back to start, it gradually comes forward with swirling, showing Tuscan sangiovese dried cherry, anise, and orange peel. And barrel earned mellowness. Warming in the mouth brings forth even more flavor fidelity and complexity. Good acid-sweet balance and flavor length. In tune with a winning series. 92+/100. Attendees echoed both its need for aeration and potential to improve with age. Well liked; scores rose through the evening. Next day: 'Real deal. Perfect. Textbook Chianti.'

Sangiovese, with 10% canaiolo; aged 20 months in cooperage. Dark red violet with some browning. Very bright and concise 2021 fruit style maintains itself even after long period in cooperage, no doubt large and seasoned. Plus the leavening that cooperage imparts. Very savory texture. This defines Calcinaia style and quality from my experience. Good acid and light tannin for texture. Eminently well balanced and mealworthy. 92/100.

In Castelnuovo Berardenga; aged 30 months in puncheons, 12 months in bottle. Medium dark red. Oh, that's a masterful combo of sangiovese dried cherry and orange zest and the subtle oakiness and certain suavity of long aging in cooperage. Hits my sweet spot. Carries over and builds further on the palate. Even in rich 2018, there are some obstinate fruit and oak tannins yet to shed. A really mouthfilling riserva of mealtime pleasure and cellar potential. 93+/100. Attendees were wildly enthusiastic. 'One of the better wines of the year', read a comment.

2020: Wine Spectator 92: 'Pure and well-defined, this red features cherry, raspberry, black pepper, mineral and wild herb aromas and flavors. Starts out harmonious, turning crisp on the slightly pinched finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. The 2020 vintage is the 55th anniversary edition. Best from 2025 through 2036. $24.'

2021: Wine Spectator 92/100 - TOP 10. My notes: 90% sangiovese, 10% merlot. 20-50 year old vines. Highest elevation estate in Tuscany. Brightness and freshness of the vintage. High altitude fruit elegance too. And some oak embellishment. First class. Yes, all of the above. And the Volpaia togetherness. Has received some high ratings, and deserves them. Wonderful textural appeal too. 93/100.

Parker 93: The Volpaia 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Volpaia (made with certified organic fruit) shows impeccable balance with fresh acidity and lots of bright primary fruit, cherry and blackcurrant. The tannins are powdery and give enough structure to cement a pleasant sense of firmness. In all, the wine is very true to Sangiovese. Drink 2024 - 2030. $48.'

Barco Reale was a walled hunting park of the Medicis; 75% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo, 10% cab sauv, 5% merlot. Nose neat, sweet, and discreet, emphasizing sangiovese dried cherry and orange peel, with blacker fruits in the background. Great acid of course. A modicum of fine grained tannin. Can go right to the table though. The acid will be welcome with tomato sauces. 91/100.

75% sangiovese, 10% cab sauv, 10% canaiolo, 5% other. Aged a year in cooperage, half tonneaux, half casks. Medium to medium dark red brown. Good, forward vintage style. Not very aromatic but well poised. Yes, I like the weight and the softness of the tannins. Enough flavor to justify current service. Will carry on nonetheless. 92+/100.

2019: Oh, boy, that has aroma, body, and texture. Real deal,/ Full, flavorful, textured. The tannins are pretty fine grained. Impressive example. 91+/100.

2022: From the Martiena vineyard in front of the winery; vines planted 2007 to 2011; aged three months in Slavonian oak. The little lady makes quite a powerful Montepulciano rosso. More charm to it though than found in Montalcino rosso. Spells different clones of sangiovese, prugnolo gentile versus brunello. Yes, there's ease and elegance to the palate belying its alcohol content. Strong vintage in a winning series. Good cellar candidate. 92+/100. Blossomed fully with aeration. Runner-up WOTN. 'Very classy.' 'Wow, really great flavor.' 'Superb, if young; will develop wonderfully.' Cherry sangiovese nose; barrel tones restrained and adding nuance.' 'Classy stature, acid, tannins, balance.'

From two crus. Vines planted 1970 - 2001. 90% prugnolo gentile. Bright, dark red violet. As fresh and vigorous as it always is, maybe even more so in a cool vintage. Violets overtone; classic. Fruit forward but dry, with great acid vigor, and still a modicum of tannin. Fully up to snuff. 92+/100

2016: 80% prugnolo gentile, 20% merlot. Oh, the brightness, the clarity, the lift of DOCG and local sangiovese clone. This brilliantly portrays all. If you told me it was a Vino Nobile itself, I wouldn't argue. Yes, silk textured, refined, flavorful, 2016 restrained and elegant. This is a textbook example right down to the hint of violets on the aftertaste. 93+/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'Expressive and rangy, this red offers mushroom, woodsy underbrush, cherry and plum aromas and flavors, with accents of cinnamon, mineral and tobacco that add depth. Balanced and long finish. Drink now through 2026. $34.'

Wine Spectator 93 - TOP 100: 'A smooth red, with cherry, plum and spice flavors shaded by savory underbrush and wild herb accents. Shows iron and tobacco details on the long finish, with fine balance and grip overall. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo. Best from 2024 through 2040. $37.'

From three crus. Vines planted 1970 - 1999. 90% prugnolo gentile, 40% aged in once, twice, and thrice filled French oak tonneaux and 60% in Slavonian oak casks. Browner cast from barrel and bottle age. Still, very bright. Broader, mellower, more complex. The fruit remains vigorous, and the oak is well absorbed. Classic. The overall lift of Vino Nobile as well as a large measure flavor and texture sophistication. Tannins fairly melted now. That's fine winemaking. 93+/100

From two crus. Vines planted 1970 - 1993. 90% prugnolo gentile. Aged a year in French oak tonneaux followed by a year in Slavonian oak casks. But rep said 3 years in cooperage altogether. Similar appearance. More barrel and bottle age bouquet development. More intricacy still. The fruit is not a bit dried out in cooperage. Fine winemaking again. Great acid. Suave texture all the same. This is really coming on in the mouth. Volume, texture, fine grained tannin, length. 94+/100.

Est. 1950; making and bottling estate wines since 1991; aged 10 months, partly in cooperage. Ripe, sweet, structured. Ambitious, rather than come hither. Good acid, vintage tannin. Well balanced composition. Large for rosso but not as large as a brunello. I'd be cellaring this. More about potential than attraction. 91++/100. With aeration, this opened further, especially the palate, where it was judged 'expressive, suave, and classy'.

2018: That's brunello. Has real fortitude and the proper rosso retreat from Brunello's long barrel age. Rich and penetrating 2018 fruit intensity. All conveyed on the palate. Power, size, scope, fullness, persistence. Worth every penny. 93+/100.

14th century estate; aged 30 months in French oak cooperage; James Suckling 95/100. The neck is long, but the cork, albeit of good quality, in kinda short for a wine with an age worthy reputation. Dark red violet. Maybe that's because there's plenty of up front sweet fruit in this take, especially for 2020. Lots of nasal give and appeal for a young brunello. There's a solid framework of tannin but plenty of sweet fruit filling. Yeah, this isn't one of those dried-out-in-barrel brunellos. Mid term potential and useful already, so why bother with a longer cork? 93+/100.

2017: James Suckling 93/100. My notes: Medium dark red with some browning from barrel and bottle age. Wonderfully sweet and forward 2017 style. Relatively lithe and flowing in the scheme of things. What a relief!/ Well, drier on the palate, naturally. Full measure of drying tannins in the back. Comes with the territory. Nose says go, palate says wait. All is in order. 93+/100.

Wonderfully keen varietal character in 2019. It's both intense and elegant. Bravo. And sweet fruited. With some oak spices and tannin as well as fruit tannin. Long and flavorful, well balanced. Well priced in its field. 95+/100.

It's not a young brunello monolith. There's a sweet fruit lining. Wow, more flavor display than I had expected. Despite some fine grained tannin, it could be served this winter. 2018 fruit padding. Always like this source. 95+/100.

2016: 70% sangiovese, 15% ciliegiolo, 15% montepulciano. 6 months in cooperage. Youthfully black for varieties and age. Shows barrel extract and age influences. Pretty complicated nose. Invites investigation. Equally so for the palate. More maturity here, all positive. Yeah, this is one to contemplate. 92+/100.

2017: Cab sauv, merlot, cab franc, petit verdot. Wow, this is a big boy! Claret in Tuscany. Enhanced fortitude. Full fruit set concentration and barrel augmentations. Abundant sweet fruit takes up the barrels' spice givings. Fine balance and fine tannins. What Bolgheri's all about, at a fraction of Sassicaia's price. 95+/100.

Wine Spectator 90: 'This expressive red offers dusty cherry, raspberry, Mediterranean scrub and rosehip tea flavors. Fresh and lively, with a pleasantly astringent finish. Alicante Nero, Mourvèdre and Carignano. $28.'

2019: 50% sangiovese, 25% each merlot, cab sauv; 20 year old seaside vineyard; aged a year in concrete vats. The coolness of Maremma environs are paramount. Interplay of sangiovese red fruits and Bordeaux black fruits. All about Maremma. Relatively soft and approachable 2019 palate. Real flavor burst. Great overall harmony here; should age famously. What it intends to be. Everything this producer touches turns to gold. 92+/100. Red Wine of the Night for one commentator.

Good morellino definition and generosity. Yes, a clearly varietal statement than whatever the above cuvee encompasses. Sense of barrel aging extras too. No tannin obstacles. Always a good example. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Intense aromas and flavors of black currant, violet, cedar and tobacco haunt this fresh, brooding red. A dose of oak adds tar and spice notes as this lingers on the finish. Powerful. Best from 2016 through 2024. $32 750ml.' From magnum, this will continue to drink well beyond 2024.

Southernmost of Tuscan DOCGs, where sangiovese is known as morellino; 85% sangiovese, 10% alicante, 5% ciliegiolo; unwooded. Medium to medium dark ruby. Smells sweeter and riper than it looks. That's morellino, even in a cool year. Stylishness of Le Pupille enters in. Yeah, there's plenty of sweet ripe fruit to counter the high vintage acidity. Elegance of Le Pupille too. A well balanced wine with little or no tannin so wide table apps already. 91/100. Liked by attendees. 'Easy, long, balanced. Just what it should be.' 'Immediately accessible. By the glass pour.'

2011: Parker 94: 'Showing an orange-copperish color, the 2011 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (in a 375-milliliter bottle) brings us great intensity and a real sense of inner firmness and tightness. Emerging from a hot vintage, we get a bonus layer of exuberance and intensity, dishing out honey, candied apricot and brown sugar. This is a classic dessert wine from Tuscany and an extremely accessible expression, almost tailored for Vin Santo newbies. Pair it with the region's famous cantucci biscotti (with a dip or two inside the wine). This Vin Santo is made with equal parts Trebbiano and Malvasia, and the wine is aged in caratelli barrels for seven years. Drink now-2040.'

2009: 14.5%; all trebbiano. Sweet, strong, woody, fruity. Palo cortado sherry like. Sweet and tawny, like a 10 year old white port. Large, powerful, sweet. At the same time rangy, complex, brightly acidic. Persistent fruit and texture. Everlasting. 97/100.

Dry amontillado sherry nose. Hazelnut and barrel earned tawniness. Spot on. Then comes the full sweetness. Dried fruit and nuts. Very flavorful and lasting. 95/100.

2007: Parker 94: 'Il Poggione's 2007 Sant'Antimo Vin Santo Riserva (packaged in a 500-milliliter bottle) shows a light gold appearance with some faint amber intensity. The bouquet reveals signs of evolution with butterscotch and caramel followed by honey and burnt sugar. However, the fruit is still there with layers of dried apricot and white raisin. This Vin Santo represents a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, and the grapes are left to dry for 90 days. It ages for 10 years in small caratelli barrels. This is a medium-weight dessert wine to pair with lady finger or cream pastries. Drink now-2035. $67.'

Est. 1987; sandy soil; aged on lees until spring. Now here's more body and varietal character. For its moderate alcohol content, this looms large on the nose. Calcinaie is never a perfumey vernaccia; this fits its style. Yes, more about substance and body than aromatics, though vernaccia is not a highly aromatic variety. Really satisfying and well balanced mouthful to address a wide range of foods. One of my favorite vintages of this. 92+/100. A group favorite white. 'Bright and inviting nose. Interest on the palate: fruit, minerality, structure.' 'Very nice and typical nose and palate. Really stand up vernaccia! Should improve as well.' Next day; 'Shows much better even. Rich vernaccia character. Quite wonderful.'

2021: Family estate est. 1949 at Pancole, 4 miles outside San Gimignano. Upon opening, accurate if modest in varietal expression and range. More to say on the palate, as it warms and spreads out in both flavor and texture. Great acid of 2021. Well balanced and mealworthy. Fills the bill. 90/100. Aeration had an enormous effect, this becoming so exaggerated in poached pear and spice aromas as well as glycerol viscosity as to exceed vernaccia norms. Attendee orders taken.

2021: Owns the largest expanse of vernaccia vineyards, 150 acres. More pinched and reticent in cool 2021 that the previous three vintages. Sample still pretty cold. More aromatic profile as it warms in the mouth. Great acid, of course. Also nicely rounded fruit and emerging flavor display. After aeration, flavorful, well textured, well balanced. Yeah, I like this for its flexible prospects at the table. In turn with the series while showing vintage characteristics too. Universally appreciated by attendees. 92/100.

Mostly sangiovese, with some sagrantino; no barrel aging. The innate sur-maturitie of sagrantino sure makes an impact on the nose. Oh, and it adds sweetness to the sangiovese dried cherry and orange zest flavor set. I wasn't so keen on this months back. It still has a modicum of tannin to resolve, but that no longer precludes current table service. A satisfying example of Umbria rosso. 91/100.

That's the real deal sagrantino. Ultra concentrated. Loaded. Yet the palate is sweet and agreeable already. That's 2018. Hallmark sagrantino size and generosity. 93+/100.

Est. 1880; procanico (trebbiano toscana), grechetto, verdelho, malvasia toscana, drupeggio. Fresh, cool, and proper. This is rightful dry Orvieto, 2024 dark fruited. I like its form, balance, style. Good makings; more fulfillment to be realized over the coming weeks. 91+/100. Warmth and aeration really gave this a boost. VERY popular with attendees and considered a huge bargain. 'Super great fruit nose. Big, balanced palate. Long.' 'As good an Orvieto secco as I've had.' 'Serious substance and big flavor too.' Attendees agreed there were more good things to come.

2020: In northern Umbria; 90% sangiovese, 10% colorino. That's a different face of sangiovese from the Chianti Classico, for sure. Smoother, darker. Its own thing. Always has been. This fits the pattern of the decades long experience I've had with Rubesco. Unfortunately, distribution was interrupted for a long period. Very bright, dark fruit. Very fresh for 2020, with no coarse tannin. This is always such a comfortable, self confident rosso. Good now and able to cellar well mid term. Bravo. 92+/100.

2016: Medium dark. Maturing nicely. Holding that 16 linear styling the critics respect. Softening agreeably with age. Good 16 form and acidity. Will keep improving in the bottle. 91+/100.

Dark ruddy red. Very sweet, nicely barrel aged to a dried fruit and nuts complex. Much younger than the last one I tasted, so I know this is gonna age well. Yes, bright acidity alleviates any sense of stickiness. Flavorful, balanced, lengthy. And, as I mentioned, age-worthy. 96+/100.

Serious stuff, with an aromatic profile unique to Lazio. Love it. Dark and deep. Really draws me in. Splendid flavor array, richness and range. Perfect balance. Acid and light glycerol. I'm impressed! 92/100. Enjoyed by attendees. WOTN on one scorecard. The attendee who took it home reports: 'It was just fine with casual fare, notably pasta with lentils and Swiss chard.'

Est. 1967, 30 miles south of Rome; Low yielding varietal native to Lazio; late ripening, tiny, sparsely clustered grapes; native yeasts. Heavy Bottle Award. Well, a contrasting dark red violet color. Dense, deep, and spicy. This is the Latium grape variety loaded for bear. Distinguished and elegant as well. Yes, both rich and classy. Great flavor intensity, depth, length. Well balanced and fine textured. Can be put right to use. Another good turkey wine. 92+/100.

Bellone is a white grape variety of the Latium area around Rome. Wow, does this fill the nostrils with aromas and physical presence. Best vintage yet. Textured and aromatically intense and complex. Oh, and the palate is equally full and flavorful. What a satisfying and unique experience. Perfect balance. Lasting. 92/100. WOTN candidate. 'Unique! Great acid and flavor. Lovely wine.' 'Unique. Full, rich, ventilating palate. Plenty of ripe acids. Certainly for the table.'

2021: Est. 1958 in the Colli Albani region just south of Rome; specializes in the local variety cesanese, the plantings of which have been in decline for many years. Fresh, cool fruited, and firm young 2021. The innate class and character of cesanese both evident. Sleek and racy 2021 style. Clear varietal character. Good acid, fine grained tannin. This works with food already and will keep getting better. 91+/100.

Dark, with youthful appearance. Oh, this runs deep. And it's full of the desirable montepulciano violets aroma. Exemplary Piceno. Yes, dark fruited, well textured, well built. Flavors need a few more months to develop and spread out. Just enough tannin to support that. Love Piceno, love de Angelis. 92+/100.

70% montepulciano, 30% sangiovese; aged in large Slavonian oak casks. Surprisingly dark for its age and varieties, this matches the hue and intensity of the claret. I like the cool, dark monte fruit, accentuated by the vintage style. Yes, one cool customer. Spot on Piceno. All echoes on the palate. A hallmark rep of vintage and DOCG. Surprising measure of fine grained tannin should enable cellaring to full bottle bouquet. Great 2021 acid too. Surely a reliable source, as shown earlier by its Verdicchio and Pecorino. 91+/100. WOTN for several attendeesl; orders taken.

Lovely, lovely dark and sweet montepulciano expression unique to this DOCG. Ideal. And the flavors confirm. Great balance, great texture. Fine tannin for food and cellar. Super. 93+/100.

2020: Est. 1984; an obscure Marche variety alleged to be a favorite of Frederick Barbarossa, who captured the Castello in 1167. Full and rich, even lavish black fruit. This is the real deal; spot on varietal character. Deep and velvety. Palate in full confirmation. The tannins are fully coated, and this is ready for the table. Couldn't ask for more from this variety. 92/100.

Est. 1950s; early ripening, low yield white grape variety likely native to Marche. That's pretty full scented. A nice picture of pecorino from a top zone and winemaker. Kudos. And very flavorful too. Nice, tangy fruit acidity with a padded cushion. Boy, this sits right on MY palate. 92/100. Continued to spread its varietal wings. Affirmed the group's love affair with pecorino and was well liked, including a WOTN candidate vote. 'Lots of varietal character. Lots of flavor in a clean/tart style.' 'Yum'.

Early ripening, low yielding white grape variety likely native to Marche. That's one mineral-laden pecorino. Distinctly cooler, more northern than the good Abruzzo takes. Wow. Terroir over fruit, yet varietal character is clear. Sweeter and gentler on the palate. The varietal character pours through, coating and caressing. Fine acidity for balance. Lasting, flavorful, even-textured finish. First taste of Tavignano's version. I'm impressed. The group has long enjoyed the tenuta's Verdicchio. Little wonder it excels at pecorino too. 93/100. White WOTN for most attendees. 'Distinctive nose and palate. Clean and fresh. Long finish.' 'Lovely clarity here.' 'Crisp and fresh, with complex floral aromatic lift on the palate.' 'Cleansing acidity.'

2023: Est. 1984; 30 year old vines; no malo. Airy, breezy, lifted. Nice spring-water mineral edge. My kind of Verdicchio. More body and texture than the nose suggests. That's OK too. Presence without insistence. Remains a refreshing sort, while more bulked up on the palate to give it extra food options. I'm quite taken by this; seems to me the best vintage I've tasted to date. 92/100. Widely appreciated by attendees, who also enjoyed contemplating its many food options.

40 year old vines; aged 3 months on lees. Calm, cool, and collected 2024 style along with an exceptionally full aroma as verdicchios go. Still, not trying to be too big for its boots. Lays right on the palate; cool, smooth, well balanced, flavorful. An upscale vintage in this fond series. 92/100. Thrived with warmth and aeration. Widely enjoyed by attendees, WOTN for at least one. 'Good and typical flavor, nice acid.' 'Rich and satisfying.' 'A fine vintage here.' 'Exceptionally aromatic nose, good structure, refreshing.'

2021: This has the proper verdicchio aroma, a little on the green side in cool 2021. The taste is accurate and vigorous. The bracing acid welcome. And the price inviting. All around good guy. 91/100.

Hilltop estate at 250 meters. Full but not overambitious. Aromatics subdued by cold temperature and lack of aeration. Seems like the right stuff though. More flavor than aroma as it warms in the mouth. Good 2023 balance of fruit sweetness and acidity. 91+/100.

2022: Est. 1830 by the di Carlo family. Lovely dark red violet. More heft, more oomph than the 2021, which was a group favorite. Not as violet laced. Oh, but here come the violets on the palate. Clarity and harmony and flow as well as substance. Flavorful and lengthy, with good mouthfeel. Scores well all around. 91+/100.

Family run estate in southern Marche with adjoining vineyards in northern Abruzzo. Spicy and warming. Mulled-wine like pleasures. Spicy, fruity, and vigorous palate. Multi-textured: both smooth and gritty, paradoxically. Good acid, fine tannin. Flavorful, lengthy, balanced. 91/100. Attendees enjoyed this. 'Nice fruit on the nose and rich, fruity palate.' 'Highly fruit driven blackberry and black cherry aromas.' 'Good depth; fairly tannic still; needs food.'

Family owned cantine at Loreto Aprutino on slopes below Gran Sasso, highest peak in the Apennines. Dark red violet. Deep violet fruit with violet floral overtones. Class act in montepulciano. Clearly from slopes, not plain. Lots of stuffing as well. Yes, full of sweet fruit and balancing dry matter. Different from the popular 2021 but on the same quality plane, and bound to get even better. 91+/100. Perceived ripe, lush fruit and low tannins led this to be declared 'crowd pleasing; gulpable'

Dark red violet. Sweet style of Gran Sasso and that cherished extra violets aroma. In tune with the series, style and quality wise. Yes, sweet fruited, flavorful, generous, well balanced by acidity. And fine grained tannin. Lasting finish. Up to snuff. 92/100.

From the hilly sector of the appellation; perennial tasting panel best value. Medium dark ruby. Nice, full, rich monte nose as usual. Palate features plenty of fruit juicy good flavors and textures. Long aftertaste. Lasting good deal carries on. 91/100. Widely enjoyed for its positive price/quality relationship.

Est. 14th century; family owned; in Teramo. Deep, dark maroon. Sweet, concentrated, thorough monte. That elegant and uplifting overtone of violets too. Yes, this is full and satisfying in the mouth. Rich in varietal character. Finally, a red with some body, substance. Sure beats the hell out of last week's entry, and the price isn't that much higher. 92/100. All positive reviews here; Value WOTN votes. 'Substantial richness of fruit; balanced structure, acid, and tannin; demands food and would complement it.'

2020: Good Monte purple cast. Both the size and the elegance. The elusive violets aroma. And flavor. Well textured, well balanced. An harmonious, upscale Monte. It always is. 91+/100.

2018: Only half a percent more alcohol than its two table mates, but I can smell the extra power. Less fruit aroma the first evening. Fruitier to the taste. This has personality and varietal ID on the palate. Fine acidity. 91/100.

Old vines; estate bottled; aged in large cooperage. Dark red violet. That's a fine monte nose right down to the violets overtone. Intense stuff for 2021. Fab mouthful of flavors and textures. Great sweet-acid balance and fine grained tannin for food. Spot on Monte rep. 92+/100. Widely liked by attendees. 'VV concentration, pleasant barrel influence, structured, spot on for terroir, youthful but no rough edges, table ready, NICE FINISH.'

Massale selection vines averaging 56 years; at 1200 feet. Dark red violet. Oh, yes, carries the torch for this upscale, high altitude, old vines cuvee. Consistent class through the years. Concentrated yet perfumed. Monte violets for sure. Yes, both size and elegance. That spells class. Flavorful, lengthy. Finest of tannin dusting. Perfect poise and balance. 93+/100. Well respected by attendees. 'Great nose, gorgeous fruit.'. 'Big in every sense; deep black cherry flavor; fully extracted; old vines show in spades.'

2021: Full, rich, sweet, and forward. Totally inviting. Yes, thorough appeal. Good acid; good balance. Has it all together as always. Lasting finish wisped clean by its acidity. 91/100, at least.

2020: 'Tralcetto' is a vine cutting tied with straw to each bottle neck; unwooded. Old reliable, if not the barrel aged riserva it used to be. Good monte fruit all the same. Rich and right. Balanced, textured, lengthy. Good acid and dusting of fine tannin. You get your money's worth still. 91/100.

Redmont - Di Tonno family; 10-17 year old vines; all montepulciano. The color is pink rather than light red, for what it's worth. Ah, but this is relatively full bodied for a rose, suggesting red wine leanings. Mighty pretty aroma. Juicy and flavorful. We've had fuller cerasuolos, and they've cost much more. For the price, this sits right and earns it name. Lovely harmony of feels and flavors. Most versatile at the table. 92/100.

Cooperative est. 1964; largest producer of organic and biodynamic wines in south-central Italy; all montepulciano; cerasuolo could be described as a very pale red or a very dark rose; name derived from Greek for 'cherry', which befits both its color and its aroma. Oh, this is pretty in cool 2024. Yes, it's classic--you choose--light red/dark rose. No fermentation residuals, so good to go. Richness of a light red, lift of a rose. Right in form, and racier than the good 2023. Don't fail to open a bottle or more of this before summer's end! And after. 92+/100.

Est. 1960. Luca Maroni 95/100. Dark red violet. Black fruit plus that overtone of violets I love in montes. Large and ambitious. Chewy constitution. Full monte. Long finish. Not strongly tannic, but has the dry extract material to carry it through mid term cellaring. 92+/100. Well received by attendees, who regularly enjoy this producer's wines. 'Dense, floral, spicy, black fruited. Good acidity, mild tannin. In search of food.'

2021: James Suckling 92: 'A flinty lift with crushed stones, graphite and new leather on top of black cherries and a hint of mussels. Juicy, delivering crunchy red berries. A fresh and drinkable expression, rounded by fine, gritty tannins.'

20 year old vines at 900'; aged 3 months in Slovenian oak cooperage. Dark red violet color as sangioveses go. Intense and sweet smelling. Sweeter than Tuscan versions. Yes, sweet black fruits. This really is quite distinctive from other central Italy sangioveses. Appealing, and well priced. 91/100.

Est. 1960; Luca Maroni 94/100. Sweet smelling and heady too, with marked warmth. Not as definitive as the better Puglia versions. Generous flavor and texture though, so can't complain about the price. Light tannin in back. Food will take it up. 91+/100. Widely considered a best buy; orders taken. 'Nice nose; good flavor and balance. Long, and a great value.'

Wine Enthusiast 91/100 - #67 TOP 100 BEST BUYS: 'A delightful nose of citrus blossom and green-apple candy perfectly sets up a palate that leads with the same notes, then turns grassy and salty as acid tingles in your mouth.'

Est. 1960; 700-member cooperative. Not as pungent this cool vintage as was the riper 2023. Maybe it needs more warmth and aeration to open up. Though with some swirling, varietal character builds on the nose. A nice and smooth varietal aspect even in a cool year. But the varietal flavor is low key still. Take it away, attendees. 90+/100. Two hours later, this continued to reserve its aromas and flavors. Structure and potential noted.

2023: Est. 1830 by the di Carlo family; once near extinct Marche/Abruzzo variety (largely replaced by trebbiano for higher yields) yielding juice of both high sugar and acidity; the wine is dry. Gracious, that nose is pecorino to the max. So fragrant, penetrating, pointed, pure. The coolest of peach and tangelo notes. And look at the price!/ Succulent flavors and feels. Fine sweet-acid balance. This just all hangs together so well. And lingers. One of the best pecorinos I've tasted, and one of the cheapest. 92/100.

Creamy yellow sheen. Full and vital. Southern body to a prosaic variety. Modest but adequate acidity. Splendid opportunity at the closeout price. No issues. 90/100.

Chardonnay has been in Abruzzo since the late 1800s; 15 year old vines. Star bright. Suggestion of varietal apple-citrus aroma. Valid. Some appley malic acid even, very rare in Med chardonnays. Say, this is really well crafted and decently priced. Bravo. 91/100.

16 year old vines. Dark red violet. Really exceptionally concentrated for the vintage. Near essence of aglianico. Black and peppery varietal character with Campanian terroir. Just right. One of the densest vintages of this I've tasted. Thorough. Yes, fruity, spicy, peppery, vigorous, and always well priced. Great source. 92+/100. Very popular with attendees, as always; orders taken. 'Super lovely and rich nose and flavor. 'Very varietal and regional characters.' 'Rich, ripe, and warming.' Good acid, with requisite structure and proper tannins.' 'Delicious!'

Dark aglianico color, reddening with bottle age. Sweet black fruits to the fore. Really pushes them out. Palate confirms black aglianico fruit in abundance. Good acid. Plenty of fine grained tannins ensure bouquet development with cellaring. Long, chewy finish. 92+/100.

Est. 1998. Vineyards at 1300-1500 feet in the Guardiesi Hills. Imtense black fruits and black pepper. Aromas run deep and broad. Full flavored, bodied, textured. 2020 tannins are met and managed. Good now with hearty fare; will gain more bouquet and suavity if cellared short term. 92+/100.

Aged a year in French barriques and a year in Slavonian oak casks. Well, both the oak and the stoutness of Taurasi to handle that much oak are well illustrated. And the sweetness of 2018 ripe fruit. Great acid for 2018. All bodes well for long life in the cellar at a bargain price as Taurasis go. 93+/100.

From vineyards in the Capaccio-Paestrum area in the middle of Cilento National Park. Quite the aromatic complex: pear, peach, melon, sage, linden. Palate conveys the same flavor range and good intensity. Lovely intro to falanghina for the uninitiated. Adequate acidity for balance. Welcome flow and levity. 91+/100.

Vineyards at 1300-1500'. Classic and intense stone fruit, tropical fruit, and white flower aromas. Minerality takes over on the palate. Stony, savory, full textured. Impressive length and vigor. 92/100.

Oldest family estate on the Sorrento Peninsula. Nice to see a fresh vintage of this because, oh boy, it really pumps out the varietal character. Likely grown at lower altitude than many of the falanghinas we've tasted, it's plumper and more forward than the norm. Still, 2021 takes care of any acid wants. Wow, what flavor intensity and varietal definition. The price is nice too. A trace of bitterness at the finale doesn't bother me. 92/100. Attendees got a whiff of oak, which surprises me. No one objected; it was widely appealing. 'Lots of depth of fruit; very long.'

Est. 1576; the estate boasts vines up to 200 years old. And this one speaks of old vines concentration. Good varietal ID, without being effusively fruity. That will stand it well at the table. 2023 fruit forward, well balanced by ripe fruit acidity. This really hangs together well on the palate. Yes, meal worthy indeed. Now let's conceive of matches. I'm thinking pasta and clams in a white sauce. 92/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Lovely, classy nose; really rich and varietal.' 'Great fruit and weight on the palate.'

From vineyards in the Capaccio-Paestrum area in the middle of Cilento National Park. Pretty talkative fiano. Honey and flowers and stone fruits. 2021 brightness. Equally flavorful. Fresh and well balanced from a round vs crisp standpoint. Very inviting and mealworthy. Good finish that extends the balanced impression. 91/100. Praised by all commentators, one suggesting it will improve another year or two.

Fresh and peppery. Yes!/ Peppery and sweet and spicy. No zinfandel marks. Its own thing. Reflects previous vintages. 91/100.

2019: Purple fruit contrast of negroamaro. Drier and more settled in. Mmm, delicious plum and violets flavors. Spot on varietal character, with 2018 lusty demeanor. 91/100.

2016: Est. 1600s; aged 15 months in barrels. Color moving to red orange with age. Negramaro (unique spelling here) sweet black depths. A much younger nose than the color would suggest. Vigorous and vital definition of the variety. Some forgiving bouquet now forming in the background. Yes, varietal blackness, sweetness, freshness. Splendid take at a delicious stage. Sweet and gentle fruit finish. 92/100.

Properly dark, red violet color. And equally proper noseful of varietal black fruit., cool and deep. Even a hint of violets. Spells it out. Equally as explicit on the palate. Cool and racy and well balanced. These San Marzanos really show the way. 92/100.

Cooperative est. 1960; vineyards in the Murgian hills west of Ruvo; once obscure grape variety planted more widely in the region today. Deep and alluring and complicated NdT nose. Classic. Round glycerol, good power and acid. Suave aftertaste. This grape has never failed me. 91/100.

Mellow, mature bouquet, warm and inviting. Yes, nicely softened now. All the same, good acidity for balance. At a comfortable stage, with light dash of tannin for texture. Modest 12.5% alcohol, and all the better for it. We enjoyed with a hamburger casserole. 91/100.

Negroamaro. Geez, I haven't had a Squinzano for decades! But there it is! An especially lifted, aromatic take on negroamaro. Unique and special. Perfectly balanced palate with a definite uplifted aspect as negroamaros go. Always looking for a new experience, and this is certainly new in the 21st century, though it recalls 20th century takes on Squinzano. Bravo! 92/100.

A dense, dark, and desirable look at primitivo, though with only vague aromatic resemblances to its American cousin. Fruity, easy flowing, and flavorful--a surprise after the loaded nose. Good acid and fine tannin. Another unique and appealing primitivo. 91/100.

Sasso = calcareous stone; aged a year in large cooperage. Heavy Bottle Award that's not usually bestowed upon a wine in this price range. First class cork too. Rich, deep, and ripe as usual. In spades on the palate. BBQ ribs wine. 91/100.

2020: Raspberry and seed aroma relates it to zinfandel. Great clarity to its varietal character. Lots of peppery berry seed flavor. This is really exemplary of primitivo in a straight forward, unadorned style. 92/100.

2017: Rightly sweet smelling and syrupy. Sweetness countered by more power here (14.5%) and a nice dusting of fine tannin. Well conceived and executed. And well priced! Vine age: 25-35 years. Half the bunches are stem twisted on the vine so they dry out. Harvest follows 12 days later. 1/4 aged 8 months in French and American barriques. 92/100.

Soft and pleasing on the approach. Understated varietal character of black fruit and black pepper. Medium bodied. Smooth textured. Good acidity. Easy drinkin'. Sally loved it. 90/100. List price: $15.

2019: Est. two centuries ago; vines average 100 years; aged 6 months in barrels. Believable old vines intensity. Nice bouquet development. Convincing cousin of zinfandel. Positively sweet on the palate, though not to the sticky extreme. Just exceedingly pleasant mouthfeel. Delicious now. 91/100. List price: $17.

Raspberry and seed aroma relates it to zinfandel. Great clarity to its varietal character. Round and sweetly ripe fruit. Yes, lots of varietal flavor. Lots of peppery berry seed flavor. Good acid and framing too. Bargain intro to primitivo. Fine tannin adds to the texture. This is really exemplary of primitivo in a straight forward, unadorned style. 92/100.

Aged in large cooperage. Trendy varietal these days, well rendered. The super fruit volume and generosity that marks it rightly popular. Power, lift, ripeness, sweetness. It's total susumaniello. You can spend a lot more and not get a better one. 93/100.

Negroamaro, malvasia nera. There's a sense of time in cooperage both from the warm spices standpoint and the rounding out from cooperage porosity. Spreading out as it airs to earn the descriptor 'complex'. Big on the mouth. Volume, texture, flavor, absolute presence. Ambitious beyond its price point. 93+/100. Great new source!

2022: Est. 1895; all negroamaro; aged 6 months in barriques. The name has geographic meaning; it's not appassimento. That spells out negroamaro, the nose black and bitter. Full and generous too. And rich in the mouth, with welcome dash of astringency at the end. A very flattering vintage of the perennial favorite. 92/100.

Est 1921; barrique aged a year in French and American oak. Heavy Bottle Award. Negroamaro. Big, black, bold. Super sized version of the 12 E Mexzo. Also displays that 2021 cool elegance. Rich and concentrated. Balanced by vintage acidity. Flavor and texture pluses. Really upscale. 93+/100.

2016: Latest release; negroamaro; DOC in Salento, Puglia. Lovely bouquet and suavity earned from barrel and bottle age. Singular, and what a price for a nine year old riserva! The warmth and generosity that is Salento. Plenty of fruit sweetness retained through all those aging years. I prefer it to the previous couple of vintages thanks to its harmony of original fruit and time earned bouquet. 2014 was a bit severe and 2015 a bit ripe. This hits the sweet spot. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91 - Top 100 Wines of 2022: 'Compact and fresh, this medium? to full-bodied red reveals macerated black raspberry fruit accented by notes of dried sage, graphite, fig cake and mineral, with firm, dusty tannins. Let this open in the glass or decant ahead of time. Best from 2023 through 2029.' List price: $25.'

Vines 25-40 years old in volcanic soil of three townships at 1500' to 1800'; aged a year in French, Slavonian, and American oak cooperage. Medium dark crimson. Well scented of black fruits. Old vines depth, high altitude lift. Equally perfumed of fruit on the palate. Medium bodied. Combo of fruit freshness and barrel earned suavity. Fine grained tannins for food or cellar. Consistent winner. 92+/100. Very well liked; WOTN candidate. 'Super lovely nose, distinctive and maturing. Super long flavor.' 'Ripe, mature nose; spices too! Integrated barrel tones, ripe acids, reigned in tannins. Hint of positive brett.'

Vines 25-40 yrs old in volcanic soil; aged 18 months in French, Slavonian, and American oak cooperage. Medium dark, ruddy ruby. Really elegant and lifted in scent, exceptionally so for Vulture and this cuvee. The additional barrel input renders it more complex than the good Gricos cuvee. Sweet, suave, complex, vital. Fine aglianico black fruit flavors. Fine acid and very nice dusting of fine grained tannins. Near perfect balance. Yes. 93+/100. Won kudos from attendees. 'Black fruits and leathers followed by floral lift.' 'Needs food.'

Grape variety found only in western Sicily, where it it thought to have been brought by the Greeks. Unique and curious varietal character. Slightly tart fruited, like cranberry or maybe pomegranate. Medium bodied. Uniqueness carries over to palate. The acidity confirms the aroma. My first experience with it solo. Certainly food worthy. 91/100. Attendees were surprised, intrigued, and enchanted by this, their first experience with an all-perricone wine. Orders taken.

Est 2004 in western Sicily near Marsala; half each frappato, nerello mascalese; 30% aged four months in barriques. Ripe and sultry aromatic range of cranberry, raspberry, and strawberry. A splendid amalgam of this sympathetic pair. Dark and delicious as Danish Dessert. Tangy acidity keeps it upbeat and honest. Long flavors and textures. Kudos. 92/100. Widely well liked; orders taken. 'Distinctive; lots of fruit and body.' 'Cherry hard candy and distinct barrel influence.' 'Explosively fruity; sweet, ripe, spicy, big, balanced, long.'

From the municipalities of Canicattì and the hinterland of Agrigento; aged briefly in small French oak cooperage. Dark and youthful appearance; that's syrah. Doesn't smell like southern syrah. There's a coolness to it. Likely high altitude. Sweet and black fruited. While few of the aromatic attributes of a northern Rhone syrah, this makes a valid varietal statement at a most modest price. 90+/100.

2021: It's syrah dark, and it does have a suggestion of black raspberry varietal character. And the flavors are more northern than I anticipated. High altitude? Say, this is a pleasing surprise. 91/100.

That's a pure and loveable nero d'avola, no other more so. Perfumed, deep, smooth and sweet. Gives the variety a new dimension. Just as unique and satisfying on the palate. Great acidity, race, flavor. Shows the way. 92/100.

This is really a well extracted nero. The taste is equally saturated. Complete. Deal. 91/100.

'Da Uve Leggermente Appassite.' Heavy Bottle Award. Smells sweetish but short of sticky. Proper nero d'avola cherry aroma. Oh, there's good acidity to counter the light dried fruit RS. A very agreeable whole with lots of table time apps thanks to the elevated acidity. Dash of clinging tannin too. Adds texture. 91/100. Attendees liked this, noting oak influences I didn't catch. 'Made in an attractive fashion; very long; should be popular.'

2022: All nero d'avola; 15 year old vines. Oh that is a sweet, candied cherry NdA nose. A bright as it gets. Echoes on the palate. Just a joyous take on NdA. Good acid, sweet fruit, dusting of tannin. Well balanced and lasting. 91/100.

Wine Enthusiast 90/100 - #35 Top 100: 'The nose is peppery, tangy and earthy, with aromas of top soil, coffee grinds and black cherry. On the palate, blackberries and a sweet mocha current bolster the black cherry note, even as the tangy bite of black pepper lingers. Polished yet powerful tannins keep lively acid in check.'

AKA ansonica; grown mainly in western Sicily, where it is commonly a basis of Marsala wines. Pretty strong character for this shy-on-aromatics variety. Subtle white fruits aroma. Good. Flavor confirms. Dry, good acid, reserved and refined. Won't compete at the dinner table. Well balanced. And, well priced. Many uses. 91/100. Observations paralleled mine, and the wine was generally liked by attendees.

From Chirchiaro, 25 miles west of Marsala; 20 year old vines at 1600'; aged for a few months on the lees. A range I've long enjoyed for the forcefulness of its varietal characters, and here's proof positive. This is about as expressive as grillo gets. Suggestions of orchard fruit aromas even. Yes, nicely rounded and sweetly flavorful, especially for the cool vintage. Just a delicious, come hither dry white wine. One glass invites another. The alcohol content is smartly moderate. 91/100.

Est. 1469, one of the oldest estates of Sicily. About the fullest bodied grillo I've nosed. So was Montoni's catarratto. Here's the source for getting to the crux of these modestly aromatic Sicilian white grape varieties. 2021 acidity is an asset. Good body here; versatile at the table. Lasting if subtle aftertaste. 91+/100. The usually understated grillo varietal character became even more abundant and expressive as the hours passed. Even into the next day. Earned plenty of praise from attendees. Kudos to Montoni!

2023: Winery surrounded by 250 acres of vineyards in western Sicily near Marsala; aged four months on lees. Nice and fresh white orchard fruit grillo nose. Really quite full bodied. The flavors are even more abundant than the aromas. Exceptional for grillo. This is really a first class grillo and worth a premium over the cheapies. Just keeps growing in flavor and body as it warms in the mouth. We're seeing some superior grillos the last few months. 92/100. Widely appreciated. 'Appealing bouquet of citrus and stone fruits.' 'Bright, crisp palate; bracing acids.'

Full scented. Spot on grillo. Yes, body and character carry onto the palate. Well priced. 91/100.

Est. 2008; winery surrounded by 250 acres of vineyards in western Sicily near Marsala. Nifty, full and tangy catarratto. Spot on. What a reliable source this has proven. Just keeps coming on. My favorite Sicily dry white varietal. Yes, body to match the cool vintage raciness. Citrus peel aspect adds zest. A rangy meal time choice. Lasting, tangy, well textured finish. On and on. 92/100. Widely liked; orders taken. After aeration, some tropical highlights came forth. Balance of fleshy fruit, acid, and minerals noted.

40 year old vines. Wow, nostril stretching varietal character. Full textured. Vies with more expensive versions. Just as impressive flavor wise and texturally on the palate. A frank and full display of what catarratto is all about. 92/100.

55 year old vines at 700 meters. Skin contact. Aged on lees 6 months. Old vines, superior variety. Still building on aromatics at age three. It has the body, grip, and texture of the variety. Coming on flavor wise. Will likely improve. 91+/100.

Est. 1969; tribute to Luigi Pirandello, Nobel Prize winning Sicilian writer; aged 8 months in French oak barrels. Full bodied, vinous; no sign of age/bottle bouquet yet. One of the fullest non Etna Sicilian biancos I've nosed. Large and rich palate. This has Cote de Beaune chardonnay heft if not complexity. Full textured. Very satisfying dinner wine for its balance and amplitude. 92/100. Liked for its barrel and bottle aged complexity and great acidity.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Lightly toasty on the nose, less so on the palate, with a pure beam of raspberry coulis fruit flavors layered with a minerally underpinning of smoke and graphite, plus rich notes of fig cake, wild sage, ground coffee and red licorice. A fresh, classy version, with lightly chalky tannins emerging to firm the finish. Nero d'Avola and Frappato. Drink now through 2027.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'Fragrant hints of marjoram, incense and leather waft through the plumped cherry and wild strawberry flavors on display in this well-meshed red. Fine-grained tannins provide supple definition as this echoes with good tension and focus on the mineral-laced finish. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2036. $35.'

Est. 1865; all carricante from terraced vineyards at 650 meters on the north face; aged 3 months on lees. Carricante loud and clear. So much more character than grillo or inzolia. Clearly the best Sicilian white variety, and killer on Etna. This is full bodied. Rich and round. Full textured. Good acid for 2022. Versatile at the table. Though there's no need, this will age well, earning an attractive bottle bouquet. 92+/100. A certain spiciness emerged, some surmised from oak. Judged big, serious, attractive, well made, well priced.

In the Sulcis area of southern Sardinia. A fresh, bright, transparent take on Sardinia's grenache, perfectly accurate and expressive. And in tune with the series. Just as flavorful and inviting to taste. Great acidity; juicy finish. Fine grained tannin for texture. 92/100. Generally enjoyed by attendees. Comments such as a charmer here, juicy, spicy, easy to swallow, good aromatics and structure, food please.

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'The nose begins bright and light, with aromnas of cranberry and hibiscus, then turns dark and richer with plums, tobacco and a swirl of chocolate and vanilla. Figs and a portent florality underscore the plum note on the palate.'

Est. 2003 in the Gallura region. Well, this is much to my ken. The darker cannonau form of grenache, true to origin and type. Savory in both flavor and texture. A rightful DOC rep at an attractive price. Rich, long, and satisfying from front to back. Will stock and recommend. 91+/100. Attendees were widely attracted to this. 'Very lovely nose and palate. Long.' 'Florals; raspberry pie, complexity.'

2021: Est. 1950; three-generation family estate. New name for Pala's vermentino, and higher price. The light varietal perfume is evident. Racy in cool 2021. Apricot notions. Round stone fruit flavor and texture. Seems more ample than the I Fiori series of past vintages, so the higher price is justified. Wholly satisfactory. Even better after two hours' aeration. 'Rich, balanced, and long' reports one group member. Widely appreciated. 91+/100.

2022: Sardinia's only DOCG. Fresh and pungent. Seems like a cool climate take on vermentino. Yeah, bright and vigorous acidity. This rocks. Racy and round both. Food wine. 91/100.

Est. 2001 in south central Sardinia; growing only native varieties. Some of its varietal spontaneity has been damped down by age, which as added a nutty aspect. But bottle age adds to the flavor and texture appeals. And the acidity is great, and really reviving. Ready for the table. And priceworthy in its class too. 91/100. Praised by attendees. 'Lime hard candy, touches of mint and horehound. Balance of acidity, viscosity.'

Est. 2003 in the Gallura region. Swirling coaxes genuine and well appreciated varietal character forth. Has body too. I hope it recovers varietal character with air and warmth. 91+/100. Big time attendee favorite. 'Super unique. Thanks to terroir-' 'Weighty, bright; minty-herbal.' 'Floral lift as well as viscosity; good length.'

Wine Spectator 94: 'A gorgeous sweetie, showing a fragrant orange blossom nose, with an enticing range of glazed tangerine, apricot, dried mint and candied ginger, plus rich hints of graham cracker, vanilla and white chocolate. Long and lightly mouth-coating, with tangy blood orange peel acidity focusing this through the juicy finish. Drink now through 2034.'

A year in French oak barrels. Medium dark and jolly ruby cast. Mmm, that sweet maraschino aroma of xino. Easy going. Equally so on the palate. Such gentle flow, with just a dusting of tannin on the back palate to keep it honest. Delish. 92+/100.

21-28 year old vines; aged 7 months in French oak barrels. Color, softness, and emerging bottle bouquet are all right for five years. Mellowness of the varietal in full display at this age. Additional barrel earned suppleness without barrel leachings. Seasoned barrels, no doubt. Good extract keeps it structured and balance. 91/100.

Generations old winegrowers making their own wines since 2004; unwooded; unfiltered. Dark, deep, ripe, hearty, and full blown varietal character. No green fruit of young vines in this one. Terser on the palate. Dry and pretty tannic, though the tannins are fine grained. Sweet fruit pours through on the finish. The palate will benefit from a few more months' bottle age. 91+/100.

States varietal character in its dry, Chablis like calcaire quality. Still, it needs a few more weeks in bottle. The texture suggests minerality. The aromatics are yet to come. Promising. 90+/100.

2020: St. George in English; indigenous to Greece, and today its most widely planted red variety. Medium red color. Dark, deep, and sweetly fruity st george. Seems denser, darker, deeper even than previous years. Savory. Like the 18 and 19, a come hither treat. While perhaps a tad more ageworthy than its predecessors. 91+/100.

Light-medium gold. Seductive, luxurious, and at the same time tonic. Unique nose. Just won't quit. Flavor set and textures fully up to expectations. That richness plus burnish plus tonic. Lots of apps with Greek fare. Yow. 93/100.

A year in French barriques. The mellowness, breadth, and depth of barrel/bottle earned bouquet. Complex and compatible. Palate expresses exactly the same impressions. A little fruit/oak tannin to shed. It will only get better. Upscale. 93+/100.

That's fresh and full and fruity and balanced. Flavorful. Racy acidity. Still a trace of tannin to shed. 90+/100.

2020: Vineyards at 2400'; volcanic soil. Pretty and precise saint george red fruit aroma set. Really comes on with aeration. Great acid verve here too. Projects the high altitude. Juicy and flavorful throughout. Versatile at the table. No tannin issues. Tangy aftertaste. 92/100. Aeration brought out a greater sense of barrel influence, including vanilla.

2020: Macedonia; northwest facing at 670 meters; cold soak, skin contact vinification; two months on regularly stirred lees. Oh, there's that combo of body and perfume that makes this such a desirable variety in the right hands. Just keeps building with warmth and aeration. Big burst of varietal fruit-flower flavor melange. Body and texture appeal too. Deliciously open and well balanced at present. Ideal. 93/100. Attendees were impressed, relating it favorably to better known aromatic white grape varieties.

Correct, and well priced. More flavor than aroma. Good acid, balance, value. 91/100.

This is good. This is clear fruited, clear headed. With that Chablis like minerality of the variety. Yeah, good acid structure and a tender core. The right stony flavor set. Lasting finish. 91/100.

2021: Parker 90: 'The 2021 Moscofilero (in the Skouras transliteration) comes in with 4.5 grams of residual sugar, 6.4 of total acidity and 12.2% alcohol. This is sourced from vines at 650 meters in altitude. A kinder and gentler wine than the Salto in this report, this foregoes the acidic zing in favor of a rounder feel and easier balance between acidity and residual sugar. That makes this seem more full-bodied in perception, less silky and less tense. If at times that also makes this one a little simpler, less individualistic and less energetic, it is more likely to be the crowd-pleaser in style. I thought it was a bit too simple on opening. Trying it the next day brought out its structure, though, and made it far more lively and aromatic as well. Drink this now or in the next couple of years for best results.'

2021: Cooperative est. 1947; ungrafted vines; 14 months on lees. Well, that has some SO2 issues at opening. Obviously full bodied all the same. Needs aeration. As usual, the palate shows less sulphur. Keen and clean varietal character comes forth. And always the ample body. Lots of mealtime apps thanks to the body. 91+/100. Sulphur blew off with aeration, and the group was impressed with the wine an hour and two later.

Light pine highlights. More pine to the taste. Nice. Nothing pitchy about the flavor or feel. Just well defined pine aroma and flavor on a relatively neutral white wine base. Less rustic than it was decades back. 90/100.

Light and attractive resin touch. This should appeal to a wide audience. Lighter impact on the palate but more representative than anything I've tasted for years. Everyone's dumbed down retsina. I guess today's market wants the name without the taste. 91/100.

Sweet and plummy. Again, plum to prune, fig, date. On point. 91/100.

Lovely, sweet raisin nose with red muscat spicy aspects. Good strength, warmth, baked qualities, and good acid too. Palate echoes all. Sweet raisin, prune, plum, red muscat flavors. Acid and strength balance sweetness. 92/100.

Tasted after the 2018, varietal ID is consistent in this younger version. And it stands for a class variety. Positively pungent. Fresh and flavorful. The logical pattern of a younger vidiano. Fruit richness with adequate acidity to balance. 92/100.

2019: Slovenia. 40% cab franc, 30% cab sauv, 30% merlot. This works. There's a pleasant softness to it that is a long reach from claret. The varieties are melded. Bright 'modern claret' like fruit richness and ripeness, while carrying plenty of bright acidity. Good value. Quel surprise! 92/100.

Dark maroon. One concentrated refosco, darker fruited than the Italian versions I've tasted. Yeah, it holds onto the cherry and citrus aspects and adds a ton of black fruit. Unique and impressive. 92+/100.

Est. 1239; one of the oldest wine cellars in Europe; aged on lees 6 months. Shy at opening. Will probably show more with warmth and aeration. Indeed, these brought out more character for attendees two hours later. 'Definitely sauvignon and not too aggressive. Nicely make and easy drinking.' 'Bright nose with grapeskin tones. A unique sauvignon statement. Moderate weight, reasonable acidity.' 91/100.

Est. 1239; one of the oldest wine cellars in Europe; pinot noir, gamay, blaufrankisch, zweigelt. Glowing maroon. The nose is as dark fruited as the appearance. A splendidly assembled melange here, whole greater than the sum of the parts. Sweet and juicy all the way. Flavorful. Good acidity for balance. Zero tannins. Totally well coordinated. Liter bottle was the right choice. Long finish. 91/100.

Est. 1239; one of the oldest wine cellars in Europe; furmint, pinot blanc, welschriesling,, riesling, chardonnay. Very nice symphony of grape varieties as always. One can lay back and just enjoy this as a quaffer or contemplate its multi aromatic statements. Good fun either way. The choices are both present on the palate too, shading toward the quaffing appeal. My best selling (Yugo) slavian wine. Case buyers. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees and judged an good value in liter bottle.

Yes, sweet fruit, good material, texture, acid, body, flavor, length. Deal. 91/100.

2021: The first is a large red grape, the name meaning 'ox eye'. Bright red violet. Nose of cherry hard candy is unique and appealing. Perhaps the raciest vintage of this I've sniffed. And the easiest flowing. Adequately flavorful. Well balanced. In the past this has repeatedly reminded me of Grand Cru Beaujolais. Not this vintage. Its own thing. Easy going mealtime quencher. 91/100. Liked by attendees. 'Fairly complex; drinking well now; easy, enjoyable, fun.'

2022: 35% each narince, emir, 30% sultana. Full, cool, crisp, unique. Well composed, I'd say, though I know nothing about the varieties (unless what they call sultana is a familiar leading raisin grape). A properly proportioned melange of rather limited flavor interest. Good weight, balance. Won't vie with meal time selections. Adds to my life list. 91/100. Entertaining for attendees too. 'Mineral driven nose.' 'Creamy and spicy palate.' 'Unique.'

Up to 19 year old vines. Est. 1822. Gold Medal - Berlin. A valid apple-citrus unwooded chardonnay nose. Quite full. Yes, full and well textured. Flavorful and balanced too. Well priced. 90/100.

Indigeous grape variety. 10-46 year old vines. Little stone fruit. More about vinosity, terroir, texture. Again, little fruit flavor. The minerality and mouthfeel are positive. 90/100.

2022: 10-46 year old vines. Aged in qvevri. More golden in color. More maturity, more aromatic interest pointing to the aging process and vessel. Full, Well textured. Not fruity; doesn't matter. Large in the mouth. 91/100.

14-22 year old vines. Sweet black cherry merlot fruit of good richness and intensity. Full flavored and full textured. Well priced. This fills the bill. Ideally ripe fruit, good acid, dusting of fine tannin. 91/100.

8 year old vines. Aged 6 months in oak barrels. Impressive dark maroon. The size, the concentration, the largesse that warrant a higher price. A very good example of this variety, the fullest I've nosed. Black fruit and peppery spice. Commands hearty fare. The tannin is manageable, so take it to the table. Good bouquet potential if cellared. 92+/100.

60% merlot, 40% saperavi. Aged in qvevri. Similar appearance; almost as dark. The merlot gives fruit plumpness and the saperavi spine. Well crafted. A mellow melange, already useful at the table. Full textured; real bulk. 92+/100.

From the cradle of vitis vinifera, Georgia; its best red grape; aged in qvevri, large underground clay jars; unfiltered. Dark red violet. Deep, smoky, black fruit aroma. Spicy edges too. Abundant in both fruit sweetness and acidity. Flavorful, mouth coating, and lasting. Generous to say the least. Actually, the 2022 was even more saturated, so this is cool relief. I had the 2022 in a glass a couple of days, and it left an indelible stain. 91/100. Widely appreciated by attendees. Color saturation universally noted. 'Smoky, earthy, deep purple fruits.' One attendee noted: 'I opened a 2003 Saperavi a few weeks back, and it held up. I think this could last a while.'

Label honors Maia, who is Georgia's cross between Mulan and Robin Hood. Maia fled from a corrupt baron to the woods, where she dressed as a man, stole from him and gave to the poor. Oh, boy, that's saperavi cool, black, deep, and plummy. What a class grape!/ All these attributes echo on the palate. Good acid and extract. The finest of tannins. Long flavor and texture ascent. 92/100.

Est. 1997; leading Georgian red variety; originating in Kakheti, it is now planted widely in other west Asia countries; a teinturier grape (red juice), it yields full colored wines of good acidity. Dark red violet. Plenty of dark fruited peels material as well as red juice. Well saturated black cherry-berry profile. Full and flavorful. Good acidity, balance, texture length. This variety just keeps on pleasing me. 91/100.

Country: Georgia; region: Kakheti; AOC Kindzmarauli; semi sweet; 35 g/L RS. Smells sweet. A sundae with dried cherries and nuts. Palate confirms stated sweetness level. Boy, saperavi is a trouper in these parts, dry or sweet. Good acid and very light dusting of tannin keep it from getting sloppy sweet. Sweet reds are still popular east of the EU. 91/100. Attendees liked this. 'Juicy black fruits: prune, plum, pastry fruit filling.' 'Lightly sweet.' 'Acidity prevents cloying.' 'Decent flavor; nice balance.'

One of the world's oldest white vinifera varieties; name means 'red stem'; widely planted in eastern Europe; Konstantin Frank brought it from Ukraine to the Finger Lakes. Not as much varietal character as I expected at opening. It's there, but subtle. Warm and air. This is starting to reveal true varietal traits as it warms in the mouth. Yes, it's gonna come out of its shell and make a good show. Got the right balance and textural elements. 91+/100. Attendees enjoyed this. Gained varietal character with aeration. 'Melon aroma. Pleasant bitter edge.'

50 ? 50; fermented and aged in underground clay jars (qvevri); one month skin contact; unfiltered; dry. Well, it does have an orange cast. Orange wines are all the rage. I can accept them if they're not strident, and this one certainly isn't. Pleasing aroma echoes its color. Middle weight that sits well and balanced on the palate, with texture and length. Light grapeskin tannins. What it's meant to be. Now to food matches. I'm thinking orange chicken. 91/100.

50% cab sauv, 30% cinsault, 20% syrah. The bookend varieties aged 6 months in oak barrels. Full red violet. Spicy fruit marks the cinsault in this. Rich and harmonious cuvee. Full, full flavored, well textured. Trace of tannin is positive. Long, tasty finish. 91+/100.

2022: 40% sauvignon blanc, 25% obeidy, 20% viognier, 10% chardonnay, 5% muscat. An intriguing mix that works. Nothing in particular dominates, unless it's that wild card grape. Clearly aromatic varieties involved. Sauvignon citricity takes command on the palate, but it doesn't completely overshadow other contributions. Well priced. Definitely dry and mealworthy. Sommeliers could have a ball with this. 91/100.

2019: 50% syrah, 30% cab sauv, 10% each cinsaut, tempranillo.from unirrigated clay and limestone terraces at 1000 meters' elevation. I usually prefer the cinsaut heavy Lebanese reds, but this takes a different path and appeals to me for the warmth and intensity of the black varieties grown at lower latitudes. Nostril-filling, broad, and deep aroma display. Warm and spicy. Very generous in fruit richness, body, and mouthfilling qualities. Again, no tannin issues. Another recommendation with lamb. 92/100.

2018: Est. 1857; 40% syrah, 30% each of the cabernets; vineyards at 3600'. Singular; always is. That singed Bekaa character. A combo of varieties that makes sense here. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. The great acidity of a high elevation wine. Full flavor spread. Fine tannin to balance its ripe fruit sweetness. Its own thing. I like that. 92/100.

50% cinsault, 35% syrah, 15% cab sauv; vines under 20 years old at 1000 meters' elevation; no barrel aging. Brilliant cinsault cherry-orange clarity. The others bulk it up but don't spoil the good fun of a Bekaa cinsault. One of the freshest and most intense noses in the series. Great coolness and clarity. Full flavor. Incredible texture, lightly chewy and fully mouthcoating. 93/100. Declared 'the best Musar Jeune ever'. Wine of the Night for at least one attendee.

2019: 35% each cinsault, grenache; 15% each syrah, tempranillo at 3000-3800 feet; Faqra (Mt Lebanon) & Tanail (Bequaa Valley); owners Ghosn family, Brunier (Vieux Telegraphe), Hebrard (Cheval Blanc). Rich, powerful, nostril-filling, and commanding as usual. Breadth, depth, complexity, generosity. Full spectrum of class red and black fruits. Repeat performance on the palate. Add the wide textural display and a flavor set even more intense than the aroma. Top vintage of this one. 93+/100.