60% vermentino, 30% trebbiano, 10% malvasia. A cuvee that well represents the varieties and region. Vermentino peach and honey to the fore, supported by appley trebbiano and a wisp of malvasia exotica. Vermentino fully out front on the palate. Acidity adequate for balance. Long finish. A pleasure to drink now. 91/100.

Est. 1993 in southern Liguria; clay soil; 24 hour cold maceration; bottled at 7 months. Some sulphur gauze masking varietal aroma. A good scent of pear eventually gets through. And becomes more evocative on the palate. Deliciously sweet and expressive vermentino flavor. Fine acid and texture. Once this airs, it's going to make a dynamite vermentino! Indeed it did. Two hours later, the group found it aromatic, rich, and long. 92+/100.

At Arnad, Aosta Valley; 50 member cooperative est. late 1970s; 70% picotendro (local nebbiolo clone), 30% gros vien, neyret, cornalin and fumin at 1300-1700'. Well, if this isn't a cool vintage, high altitude take on nebbiolo and friends. Sweet cherry, at the same time racy. Way deep aroma. The flavors show both intensity and relief. Rangy set of varietal inputs. Balanced and lasting. Well textured. Better than the nice 2020 in my estimation. 92/100.

Half a hectare of vines up to 100 years old near Gressan. 90% petit rouge, plus fumin, vien de nus; fruit from the earlier ripening parcel is allowed to dry for two weeks; the 'cantina' is a room in the Cuneaz family home. Wow! Is that the definition of petit rouge? Singular combo of cranberry and red currant. Plus cherry and lilac highlights. So precise and magnified. Full flavors confirm aromas. Cranberry like tartness, red currant astringency carry aromatic associations over to textural ones. Singular indeed, as well as sensational. Long, chewy finish. 94/100.

Rare, indigenous variety; alluvial soil over granite bedrock. Heavy Bottle Award. Rare, indeed. I've never smelled aromatics quite like these. Dried and fresh fruits, wild herbs melange. Can't get enough of it. Great Aosta acidity soothed over with glycerol. Flavor, balance, intrigue. Long finish. Unique and entertaining. No issues that would preclude current enjoyment. 92/100. Attendees were 'challenged and intrigued' by the nose. Mentions of 'leathers, florals, pepper, seawood, hybrid grape variety.' List price: $35.

Vinous 91: 'The 2019 is simply a pleasure, impressive for its freshness, balance and zesty personality.'

Vines densely planted; age 10-30 years. Unfined. That's quite a stocky gamay. Has a dried fruit Italianate leaning to it. Fruitier on the palate. Still, its marks are fullness and framework. Versatile dinner wine. Nothing like French gamay. 91+/100.

2018: 80% petit rouge, 10% cornalin, 10% fumin. Subtle red fruits and vinosity. Juicy cherry-berry fruit. No tannin. Good balance of richness and acidity. Everything flows along so well. 92/100.

Vinous 92: 'This holds nothing back yet maintains balance throughout, tapering off with incredible length and a reverberation of crisp, salty and citrus tension.'

Dark and deep red-black color. Rich, large, and deep red fruit for this region. Class variety.Rich and tart blackberry scents. Dark, dry, tart and tannic. Large textured. Big in the mouth food wine. Long on flavor. 92+/100.

From vineyards outside Gattinara and Ghemme; aged 2 yrs in oak vats. Dry, and surprisingly woody. Depth and intricacy come with aeration. Hint of roses. I'm intrigued. Again, dry. Close and tannic. Gotta cellar this one. Its whole future is ahead of it. 91++/100.

Proper medium ruddy color. Very suave in 2019; makes sense. Northern nebbiolo cut with good glycerol padding. Yes, well rounded. Really fills the palate and lingers. Such an harmonious whole. Defines its genre. I'll have buyers. 93+/100.

Vinous 93: 'A rich, heady wine, but it has found a way to maintain freshness and verve. It's one of the most refined and complete 2022s I tasted for this report. It's a big wine for sure, yet all the elements are so well balanced. Drink 2024-2037.'

40-100 yr old vines in Boca; nebbiolo (40%), croatina (40%), vespolina (5%) and 9 other local varieties including some whites. The varietal aroma set is forthcoming and clearly well conceived. And beginning to billow. Cooler than ideal service temperature accents the tannin and dampens the flavors at bit. Otherwise, it seems well enough assembled and in tune with this successful series. 91+/100.

Good ripeness for the zone, as 2020 promises. I like the weight and flow and acid; appropriate to the area. Good acid, fine tannin. Well balanced and well poised. 91+/100.

Vinous 93: 'The 2016 Mimmo is another super-expressive and wonderfully inviting wine in this range. Dark cherry, mint, pine, licorice and dried herbs infuse the 2016 with striking aromatic nuance to play off its ethereal, mid-weight personality. Bright, bold and punchy, the 2016 captures the essence of the appellation so well. Suggestions of tobacco, cedar, and crushed flowers add layers of complexity. The 2016 remains a bit nervy in feel, but it offers tons of persistence and class to burn. Drink now-2028.'

Erbaluce; old vines in Boca, highest of the Novara hills denominazioni. Wow, that's got a surprising fruit density for varietal and altitude. Must be the old vines talking. Seckel pear and peel. Full, intense presence on the palate too. Fruit density accompanied by raspy fruit acidity makes for balance, entertainment, and meal-worthiness. Super long finish. Awesome, really. 93/100.

Good example of a northern Piemonte nebbiolo. Race and concentration together. Young and 2012 tight still. Yes, a firm laced expression of its vintage and its origin. Full potential. 91+/100.

Dates from the Napoleonic era; all vespolina; native yeasts; aged 8 months in oak tonneaux. Heavy Bottle Award. Mature in color and bouquet. Rich and right. Great acid here. Considerable tannin. Comes with the territory. Mouthfilling, well textured. This requests another year or two in bottle for top fulfillment. 92+/100. List price: $27.

From northern Piemonte. Boy, that's rich and gushing fruit. Wonderful. Very fruity and floral. Cherry, violet, rose. Burst of fruit and flowers. Bright northern nebbiolo with fine tannin and sweet cherry-berry fruit. 93/100.

Est. 1985; grape name a combo of 'dawn' and 'light', vines planted in early 70s and 80s; whole cluster pressed; aged 2 months on fine lees. Pretty full bodied and varietally expressive. Lots of 'stuff' here. Full, green fruited, spot on varietal character that extends through a lengthy finish. All it should be. Wants food. Very popular with the panel. 92/100.

Aged three years in large oak casks. Always the relatively pale color of nebbiolo in a mixed red wine set. Really quite soft and inviting in the style of the 2017s. Cherry over tar emphasis. Well, drier and more tannic than the nose suggests. Good and old fashioned. Chewy. Palate suggests further cellaring. 91+/100.

Wine Spectator 92/100. My notes: As usual, the very forgiving style of the vintage. 2015 open armed as Barolos go. Broad and powerful. Full tannin. Tight core. Very attractive. 93+/100.

Parker 93: 'Here's an interesting change. The classic Barolo from Domenico Clerico is now labeled with its village name. The 2017 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d'Alba pours from the bottle with a bright garnet color and a medium-rich appearance. Fruit is sourced from the lower part of Pajana, the youngest vines in Ciabot Mentin and the lower part of Percristina. The wine reveals a classic profile of the Nebbiolo grape, revealing dark cherry, cassis, smoke, tar and licorice. It shows a lean and almost delicate fiber with polished and silky tannins. There were 400 magnums and 29,200 bottles released, and as a result, you get good value for this approachable price. Drink 2024-2035.'

Oh, this is a deep seated, traditional one. Cherry, tar, rose. Black stuff. Stubbornness of the vintage. Yeah, lots of extract and tannin. No concessions to modernity. Plenty of material. Plenty of potential. 93+/100.

Vines planted 1965 mid slope on calcareous soil; aged in French barriques, 20% new. High quality cork. Medium dark red brown. 2017 medium bodied. Sequesters its aromas in a rightful manner. 2017 relative suavity up front meets a backlash of dry tannins. The fruit stamina is up to them, so I have confidence in the value of mid term cellaring. Certainly of interest at the current price. 92+/100. Well respected by attendees, who recognized the need for more bottle age.

Medium, red brown nebbiolo color. Moderate intensity to the nose. More pliant than the hidebound traditional Barolos. Suggestions of cherry, tar, and rose. The palate has body, power, and grip. The tannins are moderate and fine grained. Well balanced flavor and feel. The finish is very long lasting. Good representative of vintage style. For mid term cellaring. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'This is vibrant and displays a beam of cherry and currant fruit flavors allied to savory elements of eucalyptus, iron, tobacco and white pepper. A solid grip of dusty tannins guards the finish. Best from 2025 through 2046. '

Parker 92: 'With fruit from a one-hectare parcel in the village of Roddi with classic marl and fossil-rich soils, the Bruna Grimaldi 2017 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is the most balanced of these new releases and the wine that ultimately shows the greatest depth and sharpness. It opens to dark and tonic layers of dried cherry and blackberry. Those fruit tones are followed by easy spice, smoke and tar. However, the Bricco Ambrogio is also best served in the context of a near or medium-term drinking window. Drink now-2035. $80.'

Parker 92: 'The 2018 Barolo is a lean and lively expression with wild cherry, licorice, rose water and crushed stone. Made from a blend of fruit from Annunziata and Berri in La Morra and Perno in Monforte d'Alba, this is a classic, lean-bodied Nebbiolo with an elegant close. Drink 2024-2035.'

4 generation family operation; aged 3 years in large cooperage. That's quite a sweet and large nose for the vintage. Of course, it is seven years old. It's traditionally styled, all the same. Credit the bottle age for its approachability. Suggestions of tar and roses. Medium bodied. Good, full acidity. Presence and length on the palate. Could be applied now in the right circumstance. Good cellar potential too. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'With fruit sourced from throughout this important Barolo subzone, the Luigi Pira 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba shows some ripeness with dried raspberry and sweet cherry. The wine delivers spice, smoke and tilled earth with some of the iron ore or rusty aromas that are so specific to this village in the Barolo appellation. To the palate, it delivers soft tannins and a mid-weight build with all the makings for another fine cut of steak. Drink 2023-2037. $45.'

Wine Spectator 91: 'Matches plum, menthol, hay and banana peel flavors to a rich texture and assertive tannins. Balanced yet compact and firm, with an abrupt finish for now. Best from 2024 through 2040. $45.'

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 3 week maceration, 4 week fermentation; 2 years in barrels, 20% new. Medium red brown nebbiolo color, advanced by 2 years in cooperage. A solid, standard Barolo here, neither old fashioned nor new fangled. Well poised. Good nebbiolo glycerol coats its innate tannins. Well balanced so will support more bottle age for tannin resolution and bouquet development. 91+/100. Aeration brought more forth. The group was generally even more enthusiastic than I.

Est. 1930 at Roero. Red brown 7 year old nebbiolo color. Well, here's a 2016 that's finally sweetening up and sporting some bottle bouquet. Yes, becoming positively intricate. Nice. Tannins narrow the flavor and texture ranges still. But they're losing some grip. Finally, I'm beginning to see eye to eye with the majority of critics who rate this vintage so highly. They got to taste it early, before it shut down. Now, it's finally opening up. 93+/100.

300-member co-op founded in 1958; aged 12 months in oak casks. Following the 'modern' claret, here's a traditional Barolo, its fruit tempered by age in seasoned cooperage. More fruit up front than usual for TdB thanks to the nature of the vintage. 2018 sweetens this up nicely, and great nebbiolo acidity supplies the foil. I would not hesitate to serve this with lamb or game this winter. It will thrive for at least a couple more years thereafter. 92+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94/100. My notes: Deep, sweet, racy, 19 yielding, totally harmonious. One could say 'modern'. That would be a compliment. Fully in tune with Vajra style and quality at a bargain price. Always is. Yeah, the ease and accessibility of the vintage, the harmony of Vajra. Spot on. All makes sense. 94+/100.

Ample fruit, not stodgy in youth. The elegance of the site and the hand of the maker. And, to an extent, the forward nature of the vintage. Oh so silky. How often can I define a young Barolo with that word? The tannins are fine grained, pumice like. The fruit is evident and stylish. I don't have a lot of experience with Barolos from this site, yet I suspect this is a definitive rendition. 96+/100.

Parker 94: 'Vietti has the enormous advantage of 10 MGA sites at its disposition for blending purposes (and for making single-vineyard wines). This allows them to select the fruit they want to best express any one vintage. The 2018 Barolo Castiglione draws upon those 10 sites (including the recent additions of Mosconi, Ginestra, Bricco Ravera and Briccolina) to make what is ultimately its best-selling wine This classic rendition is tonic and clean with varietal tones of wild berry, rose and rusty nail. Drink 2024-2038. $75.'

Aged two years in large Slavonian oak casks. The usual old time restraints of this are loosened by 2015 ripeness and abundance. Plenty of fruit up front and still the tarry mass in the background. Not a modern nebbiolo despite the ripe vintage. Classic cherry, tar, and rose suggestions. Like a port, there's that 'grip of the gob', the core of fruit, tar, and tannin. Especially ample for Barbaresco. Destined for the cellar. 91+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 96: - EDITORS' CHOICE/TOP 100: 'This fragrant red opens with aromas of blue flower, resin, star anise and underbrush. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the savory palate offers ripe raspberry, cranberry and baking spice alongside firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2027-2034. $45.'

Wine Enthusiast 95 - EDITORS' CHOICE: “Lovely aromas of violet, iris and perfumed berry lift out of the glass. Firmly structured and focused, the linear palate shows refinement and finesse, with taut, refined tannins framing juicy red cherry, strawberry compote and star anise. Fresh acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. Best 2029-2039. $50.'

The right weight and the relatively forward nature of the vintage. Oh, yes, 2018 fruit succulence here and B'co correct weight. Fits the patterns. 92+/100.

Parker 93: 'The Cantina del Pino 2017 Barbaresco reveals a beautifully light garnet color in the glass. The wine shows extra intensity in terms of its aromas with wild rose, lilac and cherry. That combination of floral and fruity doesn't completely define the bouquet because you also get a good dose of crushed mineral, smoke and spice. Like most of the wines I tasted from this vintage, this release shows extra power and tightness in terms of its tannins. Give it a little extra bottle time. Drink 2023-2035.'

Parker 94: 'This wine draws its fruit from across the Serraboella vineyard in Neive with vines of various ages. The 2018 Barbaresco Serraboella has a broad reach, thanks to its balanced aromas of wild berry, dried cherry, crushed roses and violets. The wine spreads cleanly over the palate, thanks to the extra volume offered by its earthy and delicately mineral flavors. Like other releases from Paitin, the standout feature here is the silky nature of the mouthfeel. Drink 2024-2038. $55.'

Wine Spectator 94: 'Hay, freshly cut grass and loam aromas segue to a core of cherry that pulls this together. The sweet fruit handles the burly tannins well, ending in a cascade of eucalyptus and tobacco notes. Best from 2023 through 2043. $48.'

Parker 94: 'Fruit from Albesani shows nice sharpness and a compact or complete profile that is typical of Nebbiolo. This site has fared well in this hot and dry vintage with intact aromas of wild berry, mineral and blue violets. The Cantina del Pino 2017 Barbaresco Albesani turns in a strong showing in terms of aromas but tapers out a bit in the palate. In this release of 3,000 bottles, the wine is driven largely by the textural and structural power of the vintage, and the fruit is a bit leaner on the finish right now. It will likely flesh out with time. Drink 2023-2038.'

Parker 95+: 'Compared to the Ovello cru, the 2015 Barbaresco Gallina (with only 2,000 bottles made) offers a bit more power and intensity. This wine is solid and dense at its core, with clearly recognizable black fruit, spice and crushed stone. The warmth of the vintage has also left its mark with beautiful aromas that recall truffle or tilled earth. The wine hits the palate with firmness, bright acidity and freshness. In all, it shows terrific balance, intensity and length. $60.'

Wine Spectator 91: 'A beam of cherry introduces this lithe red, shaded by tar, eucalyptus, white pepper and earth notes. This is dense, with the tannins leaving a firm impression on the finish. Best from 2024 through 2037.'

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 3 week maceration, 4 week fermentation; 2 years in barrels, 20% new. Paler and ruddier still. Oh, that is smooth and inviting already in this great, forward B'co vintage. Yeah, 'legere'. Offers little resistance, though it will gain a lot more bottle bouquet. Flavorful and long. 93+/100. Commentators considered it both age worthy and price worthy.

Wine Enthusiast 93 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Red-berry, dog-rose and grilled herb aromas mingle together in the glass along with a whiff of eucalyptus. On the smooth full-bodied palate, notes of licorice and vanilla accent a core of ripe black cherry. Polished, enveloping tannins provide smooth support. Drink through 2028. $40.'

Cooperative of 180 growers cultivating 750 acres; 1 year in large barrels followed by 1 year in bottle before release. Constrained; proper. Overwhelmed by the former wine. Neat and discreet 2017 medium intense style. That's got all the right stuff for an ageworthy (mid term) 17 nebbiolo of Barbaresco weight. Well balanced. Cellar it awhile. 91+/100.

Cooperative of 180 growers cultivating 750 acres; 1 year in large barrels followed by 1 year in bottle before release. Constrained; proper. Overwhelmed by the former wine. Neat and discreet 2017 medium intense style. That's got all the right stuff for an ageworthy (mid term) 17 nebbiolo of Barbaresco weight. Well balanced. Cellar it awhile. 91+/100.

2017: Fresh cherry nebbiolo with light tar overtone. Medium body appropriate to the DOC, fine tannin, and varietal validity. Cellar it a bit longer. 91+/100.

13 year old vines at 1000' elevation in Roero; aged 10 months in seasoned French oak barrels. Sweet fruited and pretty open knit for its type. Forward vintage it seems. Firm backdrop all the same. Not a lot of the classic nebbiolo scents coming forth upon opening. Well, the palate is classically firm and tannic. The tannins are fine grained, not rustic. Good length. I'd be cellaring it a couple of years. 91+/100.

2018: The fruit forward nature of the vintage is flattering to this cuvee, which can be standoffish in youth. Yes, sweet cherry nebbiolo to the fore. Has form and foundation too. Ready to serve. 91/100.

At La Morra. That's a nice and pure Langhe nebbiolo. No pretensions of Barolo grandeur. Just fruity and gently flowing. Light tannic grip keeps it serious for food. Flavorful. Good acid in 2021. Hits my sweet spot. Apply now or later. Long finish. 91++/100. Agreeing it was still a little tannic, that didn't bother most commentators. Wine of the Night for one.

Est. 1874 at Monforte d'Alba; all nebbiolo; aged in French oak barriques. Ah, fruit here. Of the stalwart, serious nebbiolo sort. Wild cherry emphasis. This has form, material, varietal contents. Upright nebbiolo made for cellaring. Tannins need time to melt away. 92+/100. Tasted 6/8/22.

Parker 92: 'The Domenico Clerico 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Capismee is named after the local slang for 'do you understand me.' That's a fun twist because ultimately the wine is articulate and clear in its message, thanks to its variety-pure aromas of dark fruit, crushed rose, tar, smoke and licorice. Of course, this release offers all that typicity with a flair for the informal and the accessible. That's all we need to understand. Drink now-2025.'

Est 1797; Martinenga is one of Piemonte's largest monopole crus; from vines 15-40 years old; no barrel aging. This greets me with some relief after a pair of 2018 clarets. The elevation, the variety, the vintage: all support uplift. Plus this guy makes stylish wines. Classic tar and roses aromas. Tannin masks a lot of that appeal on the palate. Di Gresy is also known for well framed wines. Tannin resolution and bouquet development each call for cellaring. 91+/100.

Est. 1953 at La Morra. Medium red brown. Soft, mellow, advanced. Surprise. Ah, but what a back bite of tannin! And acid. And astringency. Two tales to tell. Intriguing cellar possibilities. 91+/100.

In 1997 the winegrowing Vacca family left the Barbaresco cooperative to make their own wines; mainly from younger vines; unwooded. Medium dark, ruddy nebbiolo appearance. Still shy, but showing much more personality than it did a few months back. And greater softness. Dry and firm on the palate still. This is one serious Langhe Nebbiolo, nearing the build and potential of a Barbaresco. Glad I'm giving it another try. Cellar away some more. 91++/100.

From vineyards in Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso. That's sweet smelling, round, viscous. More forward appeal than recent vintages. Cherry, tar. The palate reflects the good nebbiolo glycerol level too. Suave, yielding. Yes, indeed, I like it better than the recent run, which was well rated by critics all the same. Not particularly tannic. Still, there's promise it will fill out further with more bottle age. 92+/100. According to the attendee that took the partial bottle home, it improved into the next day and was enjoyed with a hearty bean soup.

Est. 1960. From a vineyard purchased in 2016, vines planted 1967-2002. Lighter color. Lighter on the approach too. In fact, heart on sleeve. Buoyant sweet cherry fruit. Cool and racy, with good acidity. Lightly chewy tannin. At the opposite end of the nebbiolo spectrum from Barolo. Lasting flavor and texture. 16.7+. Attendees appreciated its vivid varietal character. 92+/100.

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines; 25 year old vines on calcareous soil at 1000'. Nebbiolo's medium dark, ruddy red color. Freshness and buoyancy in cool 2021. Upon opening, not a lot of varietal aroma formed yet. The flavors are coming on though. Tar, dried cherry, subtle suggestion of rose. I like the texture. Medium bodied and just lightly tannic compared to the Big Two nebbiolos. Good acidity. Has poise. 91+/100. With two hours' aeration, this came on like gangbusters. 'What a nose!! (times 2).' 'Palate too; terrific stuff.' 'Beguiling.' Very popular with the tasting panel.

From estate vineyards around the winery 10-25 years old; aged in seasoned cooperage. Proper medium red orange appearance. Oh, my. Bursting with cherry pie aroma tweaked by anise and dried orange peel. What I'm looking for in Langhe nebbiolo. Add rose to the flavor profile. Melted tannins already. Adequate acid vigor. Medium flavor intensity. More to come. Nose showier than palate at opening. The palate caught up over the next couple of hours. Universal praise from the commentators. 92+/100.

From several parcels in Barolo; formed from lots that don't make the cut for its Castiglione Barolo. A lovely, sweet, new wave nebbiolo, a consistent Vietti go to bottle. Cherry and pitch. Flavors confirm aromas. Suave and burnished texture. Good acid. No need to cellar, though a modicum of fine tannins will help it stay the course. Well liked by the group. 92+/100.

Proper medium dark red orange nebbiolo at age four. Sweet, open, and welcome 2019 style relative to the norm for nebbiolo. Yeah, there a certain roundness here up front, yet a modicum of dry tannins in back. At the price, a good bet for the cellar. 91+/100.

Est. 1950. From the top of the Trinita cru, one of Roero's best, where clay-dominant soil makes for an especially full bodied nebbiolo. Aged 18 months in puncheons, half new, half once used. Well, this is my definition of Roero nebbiolo, distinctive from Alba and Langhe renditions. Bursting with 'griottes' (wild cherries) as well as tar and roses. Racy fruit acidity gives extra vigor. Ready to put to use. 93/100.

Nebbiolo, dolcetto, barbera, albarossa, freisa, pinot nero. Skillful assemblage, all harmonious. Airs of cedar and spice point to a whole greater than the sum of the parts. This is really engaging, as well as priceworthy. The palate is also enticingly fruity-spicy and doesn't point to any grape variety in particular, unless it's albarossa, with which I'm not very familiar. I've been pleased with this cuvee before but never so much as in this vintage. Bright acidity plus extract-giving texture. 92/100.

10-30 year old vines on calcaire and sand; aged 5 months in seasoned French oak barriques. Lush and spicy, especially for Alba and 2021. This really is a singular barbera nose. Augmented by barrel time if not barrel extracts. Great 2021 acid. Full, fine grained tannin hems in the lushness on the palate. Watch it go and grow. 92+/100.

A visit to Burgundy in 1976 inspired Elio to move the family's wines toward elegance and finesse. Well, this just soars. It's brandied cherry, big time black peppercorn, tar, and nettle. Class act. Suave thanks to high alcohol and fine craftsmanship. 2019 medium bodied. Full flavored through the long finish. Elegant indeed. What he does. 92+/100.

Est. 1978; 25 year old vines; aged a year in seasoned cooperage. Alba barbera dark and deep. No longer resistant at age five. 2018 fruit purity plus a noteworthy degree of freshness and finesse, which might be attributed to its 'bricco' (brow of the hill) site. Great acidity of barbera. Earning some suavity with bottle age. Plenty more in store. A class act that was much more expensive at release. Better drinking and better price now. 92+/100.

Parker 93: 'The 2017 Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile is piled high with dark fruit intensity, soft tannins and a pinch of fresh acidity that breaks apart the wine's rich fruit flavors. The hot vintage has taken well to the Barbera grape, accentuating its volume, richness and generosity. The bouquet offers black fruit, dried plum, spice, truffle-infused earth and toasted hazelnut. Drink now-2025. $35.'

2017: Parker 93: 'The 2017 Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile is piled high with dark fruit intensity, soft tannins and a pinch of fresh acidity that breaks apart the wine's rich fruit flavors. The hot vintage has taken well to the Barbera grape, accentuating its volume, richness and generosity. The bouquet offers black fruit, dried plum, spice, truffle-infused earth and toasted hazelnut. Drink now-2025. $35.'

Wine Spectator 91/100. My notes: Est. 1953 at La Morra; 20% from marl in La Morra, 80% from sand in Roero. Nose rich and right but less forthcoming than at a Sept trade show (longer aeration then-). Great, splashy fruit acidity and barbera dark disposition. Expands greatly on the palate, while retaining a good measure of fine tannin. 91+/100.

Parker 92: 'You get tremendous value from the Paitin 2019 Barbera d'Alba Serra, which is fruity and bright but beautifully elegant as well. Barbera is known for its rich black fruit flavors and accessible personality, so it's a real treat to taste a wine that puts so much emphasis on the smaller details offered by the grape. These include tart blueberry, white cherry, exotic spice and crushed stone. There is some softness on the close, but the wine will be remembered for the linear and pristine nature of its fruit. Drink now-2025. $25.'

Full, dark color. Alba power, body, extract, pepper. 2019 more open on the palate and less tannic than expected. Say, this is a proper Alba barbera and a good price, and the palate says you can take it to the table. No big time tannin issues. 91/100.

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines. Nice violet glow. Even more uplifting than the joyous 2020. Black cherry, peppercorn. Flavors confirm. Good varietal glycerol and vintage bright acidity. Put it right to use. Just a little tannin in back, accentuated by the cellar service temperature after half an hour under refrigeration. 91/100. Well liked overall for its fresh approach, readiness, and value. One commentator notes: 'Fresh, plummy, huge mid-palate surprise of chocolate, sesame; berry jam finish.'

Parker 91: 'With a beautifully saturated dark color and lots of generous cherry and blackberry, there's a lot packed into this bottle of Braida 2018 Barbera d'Asti Montebruna. The fruit is plump, succulent and packed tight. Montebruna is distinguished by its bright acidity and you get lots of that here too. This is always a terrific wine. Plus, this carries a great price for this category. Drink now-2026. $28.'

Est. 1940; single vineyard, one of nine owned by the Forno brothers.; aged a year in French barriques. Heady power. About the biggest Asti barbera I've nosed. Speaks for superiore. Mouthfilling, flavorful. Rounder and more yielding than the nose suggested. That's 2018 talking. Balanced and lasting. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'A distinctive red, offering raspberry, blueberry and earth flavors, matched to a supple texture. Shows intensity and balance, with a hint of wild herbs on the savory finish. Drink now through 2025.'

Site specific ('the crossroads'); 30+ year old vines on calcaire; yields 1 ton per acre; aged in barriques 2-4 years old. The theme of fruit richness continues, here tempered by age in cooperage. Superiore indeed in body, power, and complexity. Flavorful and flowing. Fine barbera black cherry clarity. Balanced and delicious. No tannin issues. 91/100.

Oh, I love the engaging brightness and sweet zestiness of an Asti barbera. Albas are somber by comparison. Full flair and penetration. The palate carries the torch. Sweet and spicy, gentle yet vigorous enough for hearty fare. Yeah, ease and flow and flavor. Ideal take. Elegant aftertaste. 92/100.

Perrone's a former motocross racer; vineyard in Mongovone planted in 1999; 80% aged in seasoned cooperage. Upbeat, racy Asti barbera. Just what he's trying to achieve. Spot on. Flavorful. Cherry and black pepper. Raspberry chimes in. Smooth overall, with adequate barbera acidity for good balance. 91/100.

Wine Spectator 91 - SMART BUY: 'Graphite, blackberry and plum aromas and flavors highlight this juicy red, which is balanced and plushly textured, with just the slightest hint of oak. Drink now through 2025. $20.'

Left the Produttori in 1997; first vineyard designate barbera I've seen from del Pino; bricco = brow of the hillside, the warmest part. Pretty dark and daunting for an Asti Barbera. Not without sweet relief though. The aromas sing of red and black fruits and berries. A sunny Asti barbera disposition on the palate. Both sweet and racy. Well balanced delivery. Bricco indeed. No need to postpone gratification. 92/100.

Parker 91: 'Part of the soldier's series in which each bottle shows the antique uniforms of various fractions of the Italian military, the Renato Ratti 2020 Barbera d'Asti Battaglione is a ripe, soft and full-bodied expression that exhibits the natural sweetness of Barbera with dark berry and cherry confit. This hot-vintage wine carries its fruit weight well, adding aromatic intensity and freshness without any residual heaviness. Drink now-2025.'

Sweet fruit of the DOC. Nice tenderness. Good regional ID, quality, value. Ready for the table. 91/100.

Vinous 91: 'Packed with dark cherry, plum, smoke, mocha, licorice and chocolate. This deep, voluptuous Barbera is a joy to taste. What a wine!'

Fresh, dark Asti barbera approach. Yes, black fruited, with both grip and Asti lift. Good vintage of this. Talks zone, grape, growing season, and maker. 91/100.

One year in barrels, 1/3 each new, once used, twice used. Power and volume of a superiore. Fruit forward nature of Asti barbera and 2019. Spot on. Flavorful, racy, spicy, variegated in both taste and texture. Really delivers for the price. 92/100.

Produced by a small Monferrato cooperative for specialist importer The Piedmont Guy; 30-50 year old vines; Ercole = Hercules. Fresh, cool, and uplifting. Love the classic weight and style of Monferrato in 2021. Round and sweet Monferrato take on barbera. Spot on. Good structure and filling too. Actually, surprisingly ample for the vintage and series. Sweetness, darkness, facility Good acid, of course. No reasons not to take it to the table now with a hearty marinara sauce. 91+/100. Liked by attendees and deemed ready to serve.

Heavy Bottle Award. Oh, this is a dark and deep one, exceptionally so for a Monferrato barbera. Maraia's usually easier going. This one's serious. Well, it eases up a little on the palate. Remains dark hearted. And ambitious. Barbera black to the core. Very popular with the group. Orders taken. 91+/100.

Promising deep red violet color. Freshness and fullness both. A sense that there's plenty of dark hearted barbera material here. High acid of the vintage is an asset at the table. Chewy disposition. Rangy dinner wine, ready to serve and always well priced. 91/100.

A visit to Burgundy in 1976 inspired Elio to move the family's wines toward elegance and finesse. Deep red violet color.This is going to need further aeration. There's a lot of fruit concentration present, but it's not pushing forth much aroma at opening. Very pretty and pure dolcetto all the same. More fruit develops as it warms in the mouth. Shows the good flair of 2021, a good vintage for dolcetto. Extract and some fine tannin will carry it on. Not one of those too big for its boots dolcettos. 91+/100.

50+ year old vines; perennial Wed Group favorite. Dark, glowing purple. The usual racy dolcetto fruit statement of this take, complemented and augmented by a cool vintage. Not only that, the aromas run deep too. Sweet and suave for the vintage. House style. Flavorful, mouthfillng, lasting taste. Aims to please. I prefer unambitious dolcettos of this ilk. 92/100.

2019: 50+ year old vines. Stunning red violet color. And blue fruit aroma. Scavino fruitiness, suavity, varietal definition. Burst of black fruit flavors. Black cherry, plus dashes of anise and orange zest. Well textured. Surprising measure of tannin, albeit fine grained. Gives it an unexpected chewiness that will play well at the table, so there's not obligation to age this. 92+/100.

Four generation winery near Monferrato; owns 75 acres of vines. Ruddy red color. An attractive warmth to the fruit. Runs deep and savory. Its own thing. Palate confirms fruit ripeness, suavity. Good acid to counter. No tannin, so could be served cool. There have been 'brighter' vintages of this. Nonetheless, the 2020 has its own set of appealing qualities. As it turns out, a group favorite. 91/100.

Estate vineyards planted above Vajra's nebbiolo plots; vines 25-30 years old. Paragon of dolcetto brightness, freshness. The vintage stands it well. Nicely sweet cherry fruit core. Yeah, oodles of sweet dolcetto fruit character amidst the brisk 2021 overall presentation. Thus, well balanced and lasting. Wisp of tannin adds texture. My style of dolcetto. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 90: 'Black cherry, rose and juniper aromas and flavors mark this pliable red. Picks up a touch of earth on the finish, yet this is overall pure and full of finesse.'

That's intricate. Unusual depth, breadth, and contents for dolcetto. Without being woody. Glad I didn't chill it. Oh, it's got acid, freshness, and vigor too. A splendid, singular take on dolcetto. Lush and lasting. Well liked by the group. 92/100.

The sweetness that is Dogliani's dolcetto signature, fully endorsed and expounded upon this vintage. It may be to its advantage that it's 3 years old. Yes, sweet and round, varietally bright, and also sporting great acidity for the vintage. Tastes more like a 2021 rosso. Wisp of tannin in back adds to the texture and extends the flavorful finish. 92+/100.

Calcareous soil at 1500'; vines planted 1984-1996. Quite a bit of oomph for a Dogliani dolcetto. Not a surprise for this source. Original fruit holding well, while the savors of maturity gather. Very bright and fresh, vivid dolcetto fruit flavor. Plus body and texture. Handsome degree of generosity and fulfillment on the palate. Long finish. Bravo. 92+/100.

65 year old vines in sandy white marl. Appropriately light color. I've seen darker roses. Strawberry and cola aromas. Fresh, bright, spot on. Very tasty. Surprising amount of tannin in back probably precludes serving it chilled this summer. Great acidity. Many food options now, plus a few months for tannin resolution a good option. 91+/100.

Proper light red orange. Fresh, sharp, penetrating, ideal. Then comes a fetching roundness. Yes, sharp acid assault followed by a smoother background. Cool it down for summer rosso pleasure. Antipasto wine. 91/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Black currant, violet and rosemary settle nicely into the succulent texture of this red. Firm and elegant, yet shows intensity and fine length. Nebbiolo, Merlot, Barbera and Dolcetto. Drink now through 2024.'

That's a good NW Italy pinot! Works at area and varietal. Yes again. Great acidity. 91/100.

Special clone of brachetto. Pleasingly sweet and proper. Sweet. Very light fizz. Lots of varietal concentration. A winner. 94/100.

5.5%. Dry berry nose. Has spritz. Sweet berry taste. Right. Retains spritz second evening. Plummy. Yes. 92/100.

Right, lithe, fresh. Replete with red fruit cremes. Lifted. Full of ease and gaiety. All the right assets. 92/100.

Half each brachetto, moscato. Good, subtle muscat display complemented by brachetto pink fruit. Rich, round, pomaded. Cold cream aromatics and feel. Rose, peach, cherry creme. Spot on. Uber appeal. Doesn't get any better than this. 93/100.

Highly scented. Bergamot, barbershop, briar. Signs of brachetto, freisa, malvasia, moscato. This is superior to previous cuvees. Full flavor, sweetness, sprightliness, persistence. 92/100.

Brachetto and freisa. Back to a sweeter disposition on the nose. Yeah, fully back. Fruit sweetness, acid, richness. Low alcohol. Very, very successful. 92/100.

Beautiful malvasia. The DOC, the fizz, the raspberry. Hint of almond, cherry pit. Pleasing flavor intensity in 16. Good balance. Attractive little fizz. 91/100.

6%. Frizzante. Glows and entices. Maraschino and black cherries. Bursts with flavor. Total allure. Well balanced sweet-acid ratio. Even some light tannin etch. Exotic. 95/100.

Peach, kernel, and a certain nuttiness not usually found in arneis. It's positive, and surprising in 2021. Plenty of varietal glycerol. Flavorful. The acid is buffering. Altogether, a successful and special take. 92/100.

Est. 1950; 50 year old vines in calcareous clay and sand soils across 4 vineyards, including Rensio, first identified with arneis in 1478. Cold sample; nose shy. Warming in the mouth brings out more varietal character. I love the form, the framework; exceptional for the vintage. Good acid. The fruit filling is firm and food worthy. I suppose I like this best for its textural aspects. Good juice. 91/100.

This is bright, fresh, alert, crisp. It offers up a generous noseful of varietal character. And both feel and flavor are full too. Racy acidity. Impressive. Arneis and a half. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 93/100.

Est. 1670; 20% cryomaceration; 4 months on lees, Mmm, stone fruit and lemon meringue. One expressive arneis. Medium bodied. Good acidity and overall balance. Tangy finale. Shows the way. 92/100.

Parker 90: 'Vietti's cheerful and bright 2020 Roero Arneis reveals a punchy note of fresh lemon, waxy nectarine, dried hay and oregano. This is a lean-bodied expression that avoids the extra fruit weight or honey-like creaminess that comes naturally to this grape. In this wine, the sharper, more mineral-driven notes have been highlighted instead. $30.

Arneis stone fruit and herb and florals range. And a nice, nippy 2021 statement. Unexpected yet pleasing soft core of fruit. The promised 2021 acidity persists. And the flavor range. Not as ample as the average Roero arneis. Fills the bill nonetheless--at a lower price. 91/100.

This is one forceful arneis. Not emphatically fruit driven. Just nostril filling and etching. Like the nose, enough aromatics. Still, its forte is texture and volume. Singular, and fairly priced. 92/100.

Scion of Giovanni Voerzio at La Morra; vineyard planted 1982; sandy soil; 12 hour cryomaceration. This isn't very forthcoming upon opening. More revealing after aeration. Palate still tight and austere. Shows class and intrigue. And the price is right. Worth following. 91+/100. One attendee agreed and ordered a case.

Est. 1670; vineyard in Roero; favorita = vermentino; cryomaceration; aged 3 months on lees. A nice, cooler climate, higher altitude take on vermentino versus the Sardinian and Tuscan versions. More related to a Cinqjue Terre version. I applaud its daintiness, its finesse. Undeniable varietal ID, including white flower highlights. Moderate acidity and medium body. Good now. Very popular with the group. 91/100.

Est. 2015; timorasso, like arneis, almost went extinct. A neat and discreet take in cool 2021 compared to the 2020. More mineral and less stone fruit. More richness and roundness comes out on the palate, more varietal give and flavor. Still, the acid is keen and keeps it refreshing and mealworthy. Ultimately, this well defines timorasso, and at a bargain price as these go. Nice soft landing at the end. 91/100. Intrigued and won attendee respect for its representation of this unique grape variety.

Estate bottled; indigenous variety on the rise; 25 year old vineyard on marl; native yeasts; cryomaceration; lees aged; rhino label by Albrecht Durer. Age has stood this one well. Really well filled out varietal character. Dazzling, zesty, spicy, incisive nostril play. Equally engaging on the palate. Rangy in flavor, full bodied, great acidity as well as varietal padding. I'll have buyers for this. 93/100.

95 member cooperative founded 1951. Somewhat reticent upon opening. Suggests cortese ID. Oh, but it bursts open after warming in the mouth. Pear, lemon, sage. Fine balance, acid, and texture. Long finish. Prefer to the 2019. 91/100. The nose opened fully for the group 2 hours later. One attendee noted: 'my wine of the night.'

A vineyard in the warmer reaches of southeastern Gavi planted in 1978. Apple and sage classic aroma set. And it penetrates well too. Good acid, good texture. Little of the vintage's plumpness, softness. This vies with the 2021 for refreshment, balance, classicism, and flavor delivery. 92/100. Very popular with attendees; orders taken. 'Wow, lovely wine; huge nose and palate.' 'With time, floral elements and peach/apricot aromatics developing.' 'Lush, smooth, full, inviting; a joy.'

Est 1961; all cortese; from the core community of the DOCG. That's a good, edgy, snappy 2021 take. More vigor than the satisfying 2020. Cortese classic right down to the sage suggestion. Even richer, racier and more expansive than the bottle I tasted very cold and upon opening yesterday. Super. Full palate savor, flavor, feel, definition. Boy, this just swells up in the mouth too. Both race and padding. Well liked by attendees, one noting 'what I want in a Gavi'. 92/100.

Est. 1945 at Rovereto, the best sector of the DOCG; no malo. Boy, that's got Gavi down pat. Orchard fruits in subtle form and that dash of sage. Flavorful, perfectly harmonious, well poised. Adequate acidity gives a brisk, bright finish. At one of the lowest GdG prices on the market. 92/100. 'Flowers, herbs, apples, minerals.' Lots of 'great value' comments. Orders taken.

Est. 1878; 10-25 year old vines in marl, clay, chalk; estate bottled. Accurate, if a little subdued at this stage. Maybe it will open up for the group. Medium bodied. Gathering a slightly grainy patina nearing age two. Let's see what aeration does. Well, it jump started this. It was reported super fruity and ripe, and even better the next day. The relative softness of 2020. 91/100.

From 20 year old vines in calcareous soil at 1000 feet. Boy, that's a fresh, green scented one. Ho, hum, just another racy Euro 2021 white. Deep seated cortese fruit character. Great acid, plus cortese glycerol roundness. Very flavorful and lasting in both flavor and texture. A top vintage of this, and, a bargain. 92/100.

Owned by the Moccagatta fmaily since the late 70s; 30 year old vines; unique bottle shape inspired by one found in the villa's ancient cellars; James Suckling 91/100. Oh, that's a good, rich, explicit Gavi nose of pear, pollen, and sage. Nothing shy about this baby. Full flavored too. Great acid. And light glycerol padding. Power beyond its statement. Lasting, flavorful, well textured finish. The group enjoyed it. 92/100.

Fresh, fragrant. Peach, apricot. Flowers. Creamy. Rose, cold cream. Padded with just the right sweetness. Beautiful. 95/100.

2021: Wine Enthusiast 95 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'This lovely, sweet sparkler opens with heady aromas of yellow stone fruit, spring blossoms and wild aromatic herbs. The savory palate delivers ripe apricot, creamy yellow peach, rosemary and sage. Crisp acidity not only keeps it focused and tangy, but seamlessly balances the sweetness so it's never cloying but always bright and racy. A refined, foaming mousse provides lots of finesse.'

Very, very bright, lifted, even soaring. Sweet and fresh. At a nice stage, yet a few more weeks in bottle will augment its aromatic profile. 92+/100.

Delicate and accurate. Really crisp. Young; just shipped. Sweet and perfumed. Rose and mum. Fabulous. 95/100.

All trebbiano di lugana; vine age: 5 years. Fresh, handsome, and a spot on expression of the variety's pear like quality. Nice and sweet ripe, cuddly fruit plus a racy streak of acidity. Long aftertaste. Ideal. Worth the premium price. 92/100.

All turbiana; 30 year old vines on white clay. Remarkably different aromatic profile from the Gavi that preceded it, though neither gets into the pungently aromatic field. Mineral dusting over seckel pear. Very intense and pure. The acidity is adequate, and the flavor is up to the aroma profile. Moderately long aftertaste. Will satisfy a wide audience. 91/100. Popular with attendees. 'Mineral driven, good acid cut.'

Trebbiano di lugana; limestone soil, clay subsoil. Boy, this has a lot of nasal character too, complicated by two years' aging, which adds a nutty aspect. Never smelled a Lugana quite like this one. Juicy, full bodied and flavored. Pretty large scale stuff. No aperitif. Take it to the table with poultry in a cream sauce. 91/100.

Of turbiana, relative of verdicchio; chalky clay soil. A lot of citrus and passion fruit. Rounder, less incisive than sauvignon blanc, though it elicits some of the same images. Certainly nothing to do with Marche verdicchio. Highly desirable, as always. The aromatic exuberance on the palate is thankfully toned down. The acid and textural spiel take over. Quite the quaffer in 2021. Less minerally than the 21 Creete. Well priced. Popular with attendees. 92/100.

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Heady on the nose with citrus, tropical fruit and jasmine aromas. This dances on the palate with electric lemon, grapefruit and apricot notes finishing with crisp acidity. $25.'

Almost water white. Pungent and penetrating. Really pumps it out. In tune with the series. Equally flavorful. Passion fruit and ripe citrus. Buoyant and lasting. 93/100.

Garganega, chardonnay, tocai, fernanda (cortese), trebbiano; from stony moraine hillside soil above Lake Garda; aged 8 months, partly in barrels. Valid combo. The varieties are Custoza compatible, and the most aromatic, garganega, stands out. On the palate too. Good body. One of the best put together Custozas I've tasted. 92/100. Enjoyed by all attendees, who were surprised by it freshness, aromatic profile, amplitude, balance, and overall class.

Garganega, trebbiano toscano, cortese; southeast of Lake Garda. One of the 'largest' Custozas I've nosed. Extreme garganega gets into the bitter tropical flower aspects. Flavorful too. And quite full for 2021, though acidity is not lacking. Its own thing, really, and not likely to appeal to all. I applaud its uniqueness. 91/100. Yet it DID appeal to all. And following aeration, a wide spectrum of aromatic pleasures. Many orders taken.

Full. Basic Accurate and generous. Yes, full. Grigio body and texture are its fortes. 90/100.

Wow. This is right. A bit softer than the 2021, which makes sense. Full display of grigio apple and nut sensations. Yeah, rounder than the 21. So full of flavor and varietal character. 92/100.

2020: Well, that is a fruity, brisk one, with grigio body and filling. Top vintage of this. Oh, yes, flavorful, padded, textured, good acid. Best year yet. Complete package. 91/100.

I appreciate the modest 12% strength. Very elegant perfume for pinot grigio. Nothing else like it. Yes, finely aromatic, attractively light-middle weight. Good acid for balance. Unique in its genre in terms of flavor, structure, persona. Total appeal. 91/100.

Honors Tiziano Vecellio, greatest painter of the 16th century Venetian school. Fresh, crisp, and grigio full. Just right. Soft, with down the middle acidity. Will please a wide audience. 91/100.

Est 1869 at Tramin; aged in large Slavonian oak casks A rather lean and tart take, which is the usual from these parts. Certainly not severe. There's plenty of varietal character and even an attractive measure of fruit sweetness after aeration. Reads high altitude pinot. More power, texture, body, and flavor ripeness and intensity than the nose suggests. Filling and lasting. I'm impressed. 91+/100.

13%. Full dark color, with rim reddening. A warm and savory 2015 ripe vintage nose, with high altitude lift as well. Even more freshness and buoyancy in the palate, while maintain those 2015 savors. Growth to go. 91+/100.

Est. 1724; centuries old tenuta; site of the signing of the WWI armistice between Italy and Austria; now planted entirely to Bordeaux varieties; 50% cab sauv, 40% merlot; 10% carmenere; aged 2 years in new and seasoned French oak barrels. Linear style like a 2016 claret. Assuaged by a long sojourn in cooperage. High altitude cool aspect, Certainly no green fruit like in some NE Italy 'clarets'. Oh, the palate has real sweetness and suavity, grace and balance. Invites current use. 92+/100.

Undergoes malo in French and Slavonian oak barrels followed by aging in large cooperage. Saturated red violet color. Oh, boy, that's lagrein black cherry to the ultimate. Nose as saturated as the appearance. Full and flavorful. 2022 forward. Good acidity for the vintage spells balance. Lagrein doesn't get much bigger and more explicit than this. Still, it's not too big for its boots. Has that innate elegance of all Walch wines. 92/100. Well liked by attendees for its distinctive character.

Single vineyard schiava of Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico Superiore; est. 1851; family owned. Fresh, neat, cool, bright. Ideal. 17 rich fruit too. Racy. Great texture and edge. No oak or fruit tannin so good cool. And good now. 91/100.

5th generation; Elena is a former architect; schiava aka trollinger, vernatsch. Appropriate medium carmine color. Exceptionally lean and racy in cool 2021. There's a certain tenderness to the palate. It's not as tart as the nose suggests. Europhile alert! 91/100. I nailed it. The Europhiles went head over heels for this.

Aka trollinger, vernatch; 2nd oldest winery in Italy; from the Cornaiano zone; unoaked. This is the real deal. You don't get much more fruit richness from schiava than this. Yeah, nose features black fruit, palate red. Racy schiava acidity for food. This is going to be really rangy at the table, adroitly taking on a wide variety of veal classics. 92/100.

Est. 1961; the region's youngest winegrowing cooperative; northernmost if Italy's vineyards; no malo. That's racy, citrus and tropics sauvignon with high altitude vigor. Totally fresh approaching age two. Focused and flavorful confirmation of the aromas. A little 2020 plumpness to the texture, yet the acidity won't be denied. The group's favorite of the three sauvignons tasted. Orders taken. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'A mouthwatering white, with vivacious acidity buoying flavors of pineapple, pink grapefruit granita and hints of fresh tarragon, fleur de sel and almond blossoms. Well-knit and stylish, with the flavor range persisting on the long finish. Drink now through 2028. $42.'

10% barrel aged. 4 months on the lees. No malo. Very light and positive barrel overtones and fine apple fruit. Ripe and rich and sophisticated. Yow. 93/100. List price: $24.

4 generation family estate at Tramin; acquired Ockfen's Dr. Fischer estate in 2014; aka weissburgunder; marl soil. Not an aromatic variety to start, this is putting on a much more expressive show than it did in early May. Yes, the once subtle green-fruit aspects of pinot bianco push through with more force now. This really has a good varietal foundation. Improves with aeration. Building aftertaste. 91+/100.

From neighboring growers' vineyards on limestone and porphyry; vines 5-50 years old; aged 4 months on lees. Oh, this is nostril filling abundant for the zone and grape. What a treat!/ And, as the nose suggests, there is no shortage of acidity, Plus the generous flavor and texture and body. We all liked the 2021; I like this one even better. 92/100. Praised by all the commentators.

Aged 6 months on lees. Fresh and full and right. Green apple, quince, green pear. Large presence in the mouth too. Very flavorful. Takes this variety to the max. Long finish. Food, please. 92/100.

5th generation; Elena is a former architect; steep vineyards on limestone and porphyry, some at 900 meters. Quite a full color for vintage, age, variety. Kinda brassy like a grigio. Subtle, yet there's a deep down in sort of succulence. Surprising body and extract for vintage and variety. She's really drawn a lot out of the juice. Characteristic, subtle flavor profile. Very popular with the tasting panel. Orders taken. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91/100 - SMART BUY ($22). My notes: Est. 1893; aged 6 months on lees. Plenty of gris body and both peels and pulp varietal aromatics. Another good vintage of this. Yes, real gris fullness here despite the cool vintage. They extracted the maximum varietal character available. And the racy acidity of a cool year is a plus against the light viscosity at the finish. Developed even more flavor profile after two hours' aeration. Enjoyed by the group. 92/100.

Est. 1893; red porphyry soil. Heavy Bottle Award. Ripe and expressive. More like a Friuli grigio. And I like it. Yes, it's really quite fruity and lush. No denying its Alto Adige acidity though. Good grigio material present. A full and lasting experience for main course applications. 16.8+. Attendees found it big and rich, with minerality for balance. Generally well liked, and expected to improve further. 92+/100.

Est. 1848; fifth generation family estate, one of the oldest in South Tyrol. I can sense the body and grey peels extracts of grigio. On the palate, the varietal character blossoms as the wine warms in my mouth. It's still not terribly expressive yet, but there's such a sense of harmony that I have total confidence in its coming to full fruition in a matter of weeks. 91+/100. Well liked by attendees and reported to stay at the same high plateau into the next day.

From neighboring growers' vineyards on limestone & porphyry; vines 5-50 years old; aged 4 months on lees. Sample cold at opening, and nose understated. Shows nasal volume though. Gains waxy-nutty grigio aspects with aeration. Round and rich grigio feel. Appley, nutty flavors coming on with warmth. Good acid. All around agreeable, well balanced for table service. Old reliable. 91/100. Widely appreciated by attendees for the full body and flavor that aeration magnified.

Pungent, peppery, peelsy grigio with 2021 acid snap. Grigio plumpness meets 2021 cut. An excellent value, rangy at the dinner table. 91/100.

Lithe. Has varietal ID, subtly offered. More texture and varietal character than the nose suggested. Off dry. Good length, ending with that characteristic varietal bitter twist. 91/100.

Wine Enthusiast 92/100 - BEST BUY. My notes: Est. 1928 by the proprietor's great uncle of the same name; from estate vineyards in the Cortina area of the Dolomites. Placed here in the order because fuller body expected, and this delivers same. Good and ample apple-citrus varietal aroma. Really fills the nostrils. Oh, yeah, that grey skinned flavor and texture set just short of the nutty stuff. What can't this do at the table? 92/100. 'Very nice - lots of flavor - typical and good.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Aromas of white spring flowers, yellow stone fruit, camphor and whiffs of banana lead the nose on this savory white. On the tangy palate, bright acidity accompanies lemon drop candy and honeydew before a honeyed, hazelnut finish.'

All kerner; schist, gneiss, and quartzite soils at 650-800 meters; native yeasts. Wine Enthusiast 93: 'Ripe stone and orchard fruits bound out of the glass while subtle hints of dried flowers, spice and wet slate gently follow the upfront fruit notes.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Alto Adige Gewurztraminer Tradition offers a pretty, off-gold color with fragrant tones of honeysuckle, star jasmine and tropical fruit. There are heavier, glossy aromas as well that remind me of new rubber boots, saffron and even a touch of cumin. This is a beautifully rich, mid-weight expression of the fragrant Gewurztraminer grape, with some distant stickiness and sweetness. Drink now-2024.'

Nice, green, musky scent. Right. Deep, penetrating, and pure. Good bitter edge of the variety. Medium acid of 2019. Textbook, really. 92/100. List price: $22.

Frizzante. Cherry marzemino aroma. Real varietal character. Yes, a fabulous sweet-tart display with violets tones. Fine, spicy, zesty. Positive VA. Good acid. Fizzy, sweet, soft, easy. Raspberry and seeds. Fun. Nice to have one back in the market. 92/100.

60% merlot, 40% corvina. Appassimento. Full color. Sweet nose, almost syrupy. In tune. Good power to balance. The appassimento sweetness will be widely agreeable. Light tannin keeps it honest. 91/100.

Heavy Bottle and Deep Punt awards. Estate-bottled. 70% merlot, 30% cab sauv. 10 months in cooperage. Rich and ripe and strong at 14.5%. Abundant, powerful, concentrated Veneto merlot with barrel aged and spicy barrel extracts influences. Impressive amplitude. Rich and right. 2014 dark. Sweet, barrel aged, large, generous. Watch is go and grow. 92+/100.

Well, that's it. The core of Valpolicella, the telling grape variety, in the lush 2018 vintage. Good, hearty, tarry, black fruited corvina. Yeah, all over the place richness, with good acid too. Sweet and flavorful as well as black to the core. Well crafted indeed. Shows the way. Defines the genre, in a gentle way. 92/100.

All corvina, the informing grape of Valpolicella. Sweet nose with dried fruit assets. 2017 forward fruit appeal plus corvina high class singularity. Wow. Yeah, there's corvina ID in concentrated form. A sweet-fruited and well balanced example. 92/100.

Correct, sweet, dark. 2020 framing. All there. Yes, dark and full corvina rep. It's the backbone grape of Valpolicella, for sure. Perfect combo and balance for food. 91/100.

The Berici hills hills rise between Verona and Vicenza, east of Soave; warmer microclimate than the lowlands, support olive trees as well as Bordeaux varieties, which have been planted there since the 1880s. A very pure, singular form of cabernet franc quite unlike anything from Bordeaux, Loire, or Eastern America. Juicy in the mouth and even more flavorful than aromatic, emphasizing its unique take on the varietal. Racy acidity and just a dusting of fine grained tannin. Well priced. 92/100. Widely popular for varietal ID (with an Italian accent) and kiss of oak.

50% corvina, 35% rondinella, 10% molinara. That's fresh and crisp in 2021. Ideal Bardolino. Plenty of red fruit. Rich and full of flavor. Just the right level of fruit volume to keep the vintage's acidity under control. With extra Classico largesse, this is not a Bardolino to serve chilled. 91/100,

Plenty fresh, buoyant even. And generously fruity. Oh, boy, big time fruit flavor abundance. Not too big for its boots though. Bardolino lift and acidity. Best I've tasted in a long while. Oh so generous for its category. Got to have it. 92/100.

2018: Wine Enthusiast 90 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Inviting aromas of red-skinned berry, violet and dark spice emerge from the glass. The savory, bright palate offers ripe red cherry, nutmeg and star anise alongside polished tannins and fresh acidity. It's made to be enjoyed young so drink soon.'

Deep, dark, sweet 2018 fruit. Superiore for sure. Good power, richness, acid, flavor spread. Not ripasso raisiny. A mega sized Valpolicella though. Full flavor and texture presence. Long, long finish, Wow. 92/100.

Tasting Panel 93: '70% corviha, 25% rondinella, and 5% molinara aged four months in Slavonian oak. Aromas of earth, green herbs, coffee, and chocolate begin a complex journey for a wine that certainly overdelivers, as jasmine and lilacs intersect with dark cherry and minerality cuts a path through bold notes of black olive and balsamic. An uprising of acidity makes the youthful profile even fresher.'

Lucchine = vineyard name; 25% Corvina, 25% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Molinara, 10% Rossignola, Negrara, Dindarella. This Valpol doesn't back down. The black fruit aromas are strong and forthcoming as is the 2018 vintage's nature. While retaining the proper level of moderation. Plenty of richness, body, and flavor for a Valpol without dried fruit added. Yet these don't exceed my norms for classic, old time Valpolicella. With juicy acidity. Thoroughly satisfying, and versatile at the table. 92/100.

Sweet and strong and concentrated almost to a ripasso degree, just like previous vintages. Sweet and dried fruits and nuts. The sweet fruit of 2015 and the largesse of Erbice's take on Valpolicella. It's midway between classic Valpolicella and ripasso. The group was impressed. 91+/100.

Est. 1986; vineyards near Lake Garda; 65% corvina, 30% rondinella, 5% molinara. Wow, that's a naturally sweet, lightly raisined ripasso. No quickie made appassimento. Very satisfying example. Palate confirms its ripasso lushness that is kept honest by its ample power, literal dryness, and good acidity. Well balanced. No tannin issues. Take it to the table with hearty fare. 92/100. Well respected by the commentators. 'Big and heavy, flavorful, and long.' 'Good balance for so much concentration; for winter fare.'

Dark and impressive color. Deep, really great fruit compote. Yes, cremes rather than raisins. Rich and modern. Suave. 92+/100.

2016: Super ripe ripasso. There's a daring level of VA too. Brown spices on the palate. Power and sprawl. Definitely adventuresome. Pushes ripasso to the outer limits. 91+/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'A creamy, medium? to full-bodied red that expands nicely on the palate, leading with baked black cherry and date notes that transition to hints of ferrous mineral, cured tobacco and espresso crema. A tang of citrusy acidity keeps this fresh through to the chewy finish. Drink now through 2025. $28.'

70% corvina, 30% rondinella; in February following the harvest, pomace from the amarone fermentation is added; aged a year in large oak barrels thereafter. Ripe and dried fruits of real ripasso. Positive earthy undertones. Always reliable and well priced. Yeah, good power and presence. 2020 framework. Dried fruit presence. Proper power. No quickie ripasso. Shows the way. 92+/100.

Made the first amarone, in 1936; 70% corvina, 15% corvinone, 15% rondinella; aged 12-18 months in cooperage. This is real ripasso. Power, presence, and dried fruit impact. Dark as its name. Yes, balance of sweetness and force. The oak is an important player too. Big time, mouthfilling ripasso player with a lasting aftertaste. Writes the book on ripasso. For full fare, or the cellar. Popular with the group. 93+/100.

Est. 1909; 70% corvina, 30% rondinella; in Feb. after the harvest, pomace from the amarone fermentation is added; aged a year in large oak barrels thereafter. With fruity concessions to modernity, there's a lot of classic ripasso expressed in the nose. A good dose of dried berries. Sweet on the palate, especially for a cool year. Less about raisin and more about sweet fruit to taste. Still, it's no quickie appassimento take. A very satisfying vintage of this. 91+/100. Attendees agreed. Positive oak aspects came with aeration, including pipe tobacco and cedar.

14%; corvina and corvinone 70%, rondinella 20%; croatina and oseleta 10%; 20 year old vines; aged a year in foudres, 30% new 70% once used. That's real ripasso, not some appassimento knockoff. And this is about the oakiest ripasso of all. Like it or not, it's not shy on the barrel input. I happen to like it. Yes, for my tastes the oak flavors, textures, and tannins add to (and counter) the dried fruit essences. Great adventure here, and potential. 93+/100.

Parker 90+: 'The 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Capitel San Rocco shows great dark fruit intensity, spread over a rich mid-weight style. I found the breezes of rosemary essence and eucalyptus oil to be very distinctive and nice. It's the perfect choice for roasted lamb with garlic and rosemary potatoes, and it's a great value too, thanks to the 100,000 bottles made. This wine was first produced in 1976, and the Tedeschi family was among the first to use the Ripasso method in Valpolicella in its commercial winemaking. Drink now-2023.'

Wine Spectator 91: 'A rich red, with creamy tannins and juicy acidity, showing an expressive range of fig cake, sun-dried black cherry, coffee liqueur, dried thyme and smoke flavors. A balanced crowd-pleaser. Drink now through 2027. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. $45.'

70% corvina, 20% rondinella, 10% molinara; aged 3 years plus in large barrels and French barriques. Sweet, and full of dried fruit aromas. While a fully raisined, traditional amarone, this has a certain stylishness I associate with this cuvee. The tannin is coated by dried fruit sweetness, so it doesn't make harsh drinking at present. Still, there's a lot of bottle bouquet waiting to be earned. 92+/100.

Wine & Spirits 92: 'This Amarone shows a bright core of sour-cherry flavor that expands to notes of apple skin, orange peel and gingery spice. The fresh fruit tones, taut tannins and dry finish make this a versatile match for grilled game or roast pork.'

Vinous 93: 'The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Antonio Castagnedi balances dark ripe fruits, sweet spices and rich mocha with savory herbs and violet florals. It's a silky and energetic effort with cooling acids and minerals, coloring within the lines of refinement while still satiating the senses with masses of ripe black cherries. A bit of heat pokes out through on the finish, yet this is forgivable in my book, as the Antonio Castagnedi tapers off fresh to inner violet florals and a bitter twang of wild berries. Drink 2022-2032.'

Wine Enthusiast 95/100. My notes: Marne = marl; 180 = degrees of exposure of vineyard, SW to SE; 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara; 4 months' drying; 30 months' aging in Slavonian oak barrels. Well, that's a sweet and husky amarone experience. Tedeschi keeps a lot to tradition yet manages to stress ripe fruit over raisin and equilibrium over raw power. A real sweetie, with power and tannin to keep it on track. What a beautifully proportioned amarone presentation! 96+/100.

Grapes dried 100-120 days; aged two years in barrels. Sweet, but shy on raisin character. Hides its power. Sweet again. Light tannin for balance. Good acidity. A relative light weight in the amarone field and priced accordingly. 90/100.

That's good, unwooded, cool climate chardonnay. Round in texture, with good acid cut. 91/100.

Pleasing tete a tete of soft and sharp aromatics. Good intensity. Full and flavorful. Rightly green fruited. 91/100.

Est. 1906; half each cortese, garganega; hillside (colle) vineyard capped with lime trees (tigli). A little sulphur upon opening, but it can't suppress the exceptional exuberance of this vintage's version of a longtime favorite. Flavorful as well as aromatic. The lime association cannot be denied. And much, much more in the way of aromas and flavors classic to these two great white varieties of Italy's north. In a relatively ripe vintage, perfectly adequate fruit acidity. Feels and flavors persist on a long finish. Will surely satisfy perennial fans. 92/100. Widely liked by attendees.

Well, this talks the Classico and the garganega talk. Full. Truly 'suave'. Really develops aroma and texture interest as it airs. Well, all of the above. Full of texture and flavor. A true Classico. 91/100.

All garganega; basaltic soil. Good garganega aromatic accuracy and intensity. Has a mellowness to it. Yes, very 'suave' and mellow. Gracious acidity. Flavorful. Well textured and balanced 91/100.

All garganega grown on south facing slopes. Well, that's certainly a wide spread of desirable garganega aromatics. Both racy 2021 acidity and delectable core stone fruits. Just as delicious on the palate for its flavor spectrum and the wonderful harmony of acidity and fruit ripeness. This is the definition of BALANCE. Lasting finish too, from the standpoints of both flavor and texture. 92/100. General enthusiasm among attendees over this one: 'very Soave', 'just perfect Soave; salty minerality, great acid and freshness', 'palpable stone fruits, long finish'.

Good, full, bright ruby color. Classic cranberry-orange relish aroma. Plus red cherry. Great 2021 acid makes this a really juicy example. Full of flavor and texture. No tannin issues. Ideal, and ready to serve. 92/100.

Scarpetta is a brand developed by Bobby Stuckey, MS, and former French Laundry chef Lachlan Patterson, lovers of Friuli wines. This one, of 80% chardonnay and 20% friulano, really charmed me at a trade tasting earlier this month. Perfectly harmonious varietal concept. Full of personality. Its own thing. One glass invites another. Great value. 91/100.

Full and satisfying grigio body. In the mouth, acid, body, balance. Good price. 91/100.

2020: Grigio full and accurate. Good value. Confirmed. A grigio with satisfying varietal character and body. 91/100.

Est. 1878; estate bottled. This has sauvignon gooseberry and grass aromatic, but subtly so, not in your face. It's always that way. I love it. Good acid to balance the 2022 relative plushness. Ultimately, totally harmonious and ready for the table, where it will prove more versatile than those gregarious NZ takes. 91/100. 'Gun flint' noted. Attendees appreciated its lack of aggressiveness. 'Very long and very easy to enjoy.'

Vineyards around Udine and Pordenone, close to the Adriatic. OMG! Even more pungent and penetrating than the 19 and 20. 2021 cut to the max. Gooseberry to the fore. Oft related but seldom dominating. Palate confirms. The cool vintage really brings out the gooseberry. One of the world's best sauvignon values. 92/100. Almost too much of a good thing, according to the commentators. I counter 'It hurts so good!'.

Brisk, cool, crackling Friuli sauvignon. Grapefruit and thyme. Grapefruit flavor. Great acidity. Long aftertaste. 92/100.

Clear sauvignon citrus and soft tropical fruits character. Perfectly bright and fresh still. Great flavor intensity, a little burnished with bottle age. Great acidity. Really quite full bodied. That's Collio. Lovely now. 92/100.

All salamino. Dark color. Sweet and spot on. Tangy fizz and acidity. Black and purple berries. Equally bountiful berry flavors. Exactly what I'm looking for in a semi-sweet lambrusco. 92/100.

Bright, dark, cheery red violet. Sweet raspberry and some peppery seeds. Spot on. Deliciously sweet, well foiled by 21 acidity. If the gas were still present, that would buffer the sweetness further. Exemplary, and..well priced. 92/100.

Full color. Light frizzante sparkle. High aromatic intensity pushed forth by its mousse. Buoyant and rich raspberry aroma. Racy. Full fruit and flower. Brisk tartness. Yow! The real deal. 92/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'The color of this wine is a stunning deep-red verging on purple. The aromas are full of ripe plums and black cherries. This juicy fruit is in balance with the more gamy, earthy and herbal notes that appear on the midpalate. Lush but balanced, it delivers a fresh pop of acidity on the finish to make the second glass as easy as the first.'

Wine Enthusiast 95 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Radiant and bone-dry, this lovely, gently sparkling wine has delicate scents of red berry and white spring flower. Savory and vibrant, the elegant palate features crushed strawberry, pomegranate and hints of vanilla framed in an extremely refined perlage. Crisp acidity keeps it lively and focused.'

Wine Enthusiast 96 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Shows a fresh nix of strawberry, boysenberry and pomegranate that gives way to intense floral notes, wild herbs and game.'

All sangiovese; aged a year in oak cooperage. 18 sweet, Romagna sangiovese fresh and lifted, riserva barrel assuaged to the right degree as not to dominate the original fruit. Ho, hum, just another great bargain in this series. Sangiovese dried cherry and orange peel. More flow, less grip than the Tuscan sangiovese norm. Versatile at the table. Pleasing and harmonious overall. 91/100.

That's the light touch at sangiovese that is Romagna. Despite the superiore elevated alcohol content. Fits right. Oh, there's some power, weight, extract, and tannin on the palate. Not to the excess. The acid is great, and the wine well balanced. Long and chewy too. Decant early, then serve through winter. 91+/100.

Snappy fruit, deep and spicy (clove in particular), rich and racy. Great fruit, texture, richness, peppercorn edge, concentration. Yow. Long finish, crisp and fruity. Worthy sequel to the attractive 2017. 92/100.

Marl soil; indigenous yeasts; aged 18 months in cement tanks, large cooperage, and once used barriques. Deep and serious stuff. Romagna sangiovese on steroids, plus the complexing age factor. Yes, a combination of aging in cooperage and bottle, intense original material, emerging bouquet, and 2017 revelations. Academically stimulating. Perhaps a couple years' cellaring before full sensual enjoyment. Following two hours' aeration, very popular with the group. 92+/100.

Vinous 90: 'The 2018 Sangiovese Superiore Riserva Petrignone is reserved and coy in the glass, requiring coaxing to reveal its bouquet of smoky wildberries, licorice and crushed violets. This is a remarkably pure and lifted expression and impresses with its purity, as salty minerals mix with sour citrus, and grippy tannins build toward the close. It's lightly structured and long, leaving black currants and inner florals to linger through its youthfully dry finish.'

85-15. Pretty dark ruby color for sangiovese. Sweet and modern Nespoli approach. Not without acid brightness though. Yes, both sweet and very brisk. In style. Mealworthy. 91/100.

Made solely in Romagna since the 13th century; adesso = now. All refosco. Warm, ripe, robust, and sweet. Yes, all about sweetness, zestiness, spiciness. Like Christmas cake. As intended. Has a steady following. 91/100.

Great crispness of 2021 coupled with sweet, honeyed, nutty albana character. Yes, both sweet and racy. Flavorful, well balanced. Full appeal. A good vintage indeed. 91/100.

Very successful varietal tete a tete. They each talk, and they talk to each other. Abundant fruit fragrance and range. Flavors echo aroma impressions. Great 2021 acidity. 91/100.

60% merlot, 30% cab sauv, 10% cab franc. Aged in seasoned barrels. Deep, dark color, especially for 2017. Generous black fruits. Rich, abundant. Full fruited. Sweet fruited. Fine Tuscan take on claret. Shows barrel aging too. Very rich and round. Ripe and sweet, large and generous. Good acid and fine tannins balance it out. Again, a sense of barrel time. Stellar value. 92+/100.

Suckling 92: 'Loads of primary fruit showing now, set very much in the essence-zone with cherry compote, violet perfume and blackberry puree. The palate shows good depth and composition, though, a firm layering of tannins carrying darkly spiced fruit long and vivid, thanks to refreshing acidity.' List price: $27.

Vines planted 1964; Italy's oldest syrah vineyard; aged 18 months in French barriques. Warmth and power of Tuscan syrah. Evident oak, and it's positive, complexing. Strength, substance, texture, and tannin. In harmony. Would appreciate more bottle age. I discovered that we tasted this last year, and my notes pointed to an international style. Today, it shows more regionality. 91/100.

2018: Younger, deeper, darker than the 2017. More-ish. Oh, yeah, luxurious dark fruit coats the palate. Loaded. 92/100.

Rare Tuscan red varietal, recently rescued from extinction. Dark core, red-orange rim. Good dark fruit perfume. Open a day, and better for it. Dark and solid and uniquely varietal. Lasting taste, tannin. Works. 92/100.

60% syrah, 40% sangiovese. Youngest wine I've had from this producer. Still, it expresses the body, depth, and a certain attractive rusticity I' ve come to expect and enjoy in Guado's wines. Dark fruited and husky. Syrah white pepper to the fore. Successful marriage of varietals. Not tannic, so it doesn't require aging. If it's like previous vintages of Bacco though, it will earn a complex bottle bouquet after cellaring awhile. 92+/100.

Mostly sangiovese, with malvasia nera, syrah, ciliegiolo; 9-15 year old vines, cryomaceration; unwooded. Fresh and vigorously fruity. Malvasia and cryo push it forward. Good winemaking. They're even more in evidence on the palate. Good acidity. Flavorful, forward appeal without succumbing to fruit bomb exaggeration. 91/100.

Est. 1998 in southern Maremma; cab sauv, merlot, alicante, petit verdot, cab franc; half aged in French oak barriques & tonneaux, 1/4 new; Wine Enthusiast 90: ' this offers aromas recalling mature black-skinned fruit, tilled soil and a cedar. The ripe palate offers baked plum, tobacco and mocha alongside supple tannins. Drink through 2025.'

All colorino. And well colored it is. And fresh and lifted, especially for the vintage and age. This is the colorino aroma I'd imagined but never experienced in its purity. I'm sold on the nose. Yes, well flavored, textured, seemingly some barrel augmentation. It's not just for color anymore. Good cellar potential. 93+/100.

Vinous 91: 'Intensely spicy and perfumed with a floral bouquet that mixes dusty rose, sage and vivid black cherry. This finishes incredibly fresh yet characterful with potent raspberry and licorice hints. Wow. It's an unparalleled value as well. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Franc. Drink now-2025.'

Wine & Spirits 96/100.

At Montalcino; vineyard at 1500'; planted 2000-2004; 85% sangiovese, 10% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged 10 months in neutral cooperage. Very mellow, modern take. Rarely find such sweet smelling Tuscan sangiovese. The time in cooperage adds spice and forward display. Quite powerful too. No problem with the acidity. There is a bit of fine grained tannin to keep it honest too. Long, even keeled aftertaste. Wide appeal, and wide apps at the table. Generally liked by the tasting panel. 91/100.

Half sangiovese, quarter each cab sauv, merlot. 5-30 year old vines. Aged a year in large cooperage. Delicious bouquet at age five, 2017 suave and forthcoming. Plenty of fruit integrity as well as bottle bouquet. In harmony. Palate equally well positioned to please at the table over the coming months. Tannins practically melted away. Long, balanced, flavorful finish. 92/100.

Wow! That's the most expressive Tuscan vermentino I've nosed. Vies with the best of Sardinia. High pitched Med herbs aroma. Writes the book on vermentino. Flavors equally intense and explicit. Good acid. Got to have this one. 93/100.

Straw wrapped fiasco.

Straw wrapped fiasco.

Straw wrapped fiasco.

Hearty, abundant 2018 fruit. Cherry, dried cherry, and a nice tarry component for basis. Medium bodied. Good, brisk acidity. Flavorful. Well padded. Dry and mealworthy. 91/100.

Est. 1855; all sangiovese; from Chianti Rufina. Fresh, bright, splashy 2021 with sweet, glycerol sangiovese core. I detect a quaffer. Yes, flows nicely. I appreciate the 2021 acidity, the Rufina pedigree, the mild alcohol, and the always racy, mealworthy demeanor of this cuvee. Long, well textured finish. The price is right too. 91/100. The group loved the style, quality, and price. Many orders taken.

5 generation family winegrowers at Rufina. Fruit freshness retained through the barrel aging process, which adds depth and dimension. The dark sangiovese style of Rufina. Yes, bright black fruit flavor and acidity tempered by barrel aged suavity. Especially good acidity for 2017. 91/100.

80% sangiovese, 20% merlot. Plenty of sweet, black merlot filling. With sangiovese dried cherry and citrus peel emphasis on the palate. Great acidity. I like this source. Mouthwatering rosso for food. 91/100.

2016: Dark, with a ruddy rim. Sangiovese transformed by time in cooperage. Not overtly woody. Just barrel tempered. Juicy cherry and orange rind sangiovese flavors. Good acid of course. Fine tannin. More about solidity than elegance. Still rather enclosed even into the second evening. I suggest cellaring this a spell. 91+/100. List price: $20.

Est. 1730; 90% sangiovese, 10% ciliegiolo; 4 months in cooperage; unfiltered. Nice sangiovese cherry, orange zest, anise, and tar aromas, and glycerol feel. Oh, good 2021 acidity really perks up the palate and begs for food. Admirably flavorful. Well balanced. Light back tannin for texture and length. 91/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Great nose; oak begins to show on the palate.' 'Spice! Great.'

A rich, sweet smelling vintage of this, especially for CCF. Just the vintage or a change in approach-/ Quite large and powerful for its DOCG. 2020 structure. Seems stronger than 13.5%. Can't fault it for generosity. 91/100.

Sangiovese, colorino, merlot, cab sauv. That's different from the Frescobaldi Chianti Classico that preceded it. That's Rufina black fruited take on sangiovese. Fresh and upbeat. Yes, on the young side of riserva. More fruit than barrel. Youthful in development and tannin. Good cellar candidate. 91+/100.

95% sangiovese, 5% colorino; aged 18 months in French barriques, 12 months in bottle. Red-black Rufina color. And dark fruited Rufina sangiovese leanings. One of the fullest and most aromatic in the series. Yeah, really full bodied for Masi. Full flavor and texture satisfaction. Fruit sweetness, acidity, and fine tannin balance. Most ample to date. Yields little to its more powerful CdR predecessor in this set. 92+/100. Widely liked by attendees for terroir expression, balance, and now or later usefulness. Orders taken.

Est. 1827; vines planted 1978-2003; 95% sangiovese, 5% canaiolo and colorino; native yeasts. Oh, that is always so refined, distinctive, and definitive of its zone. There seem some attractive barrel embellishments too. Dark, dignified, confident. Silk textures thanks to the finest of tannins. Hint of noble reduction in youth. Here's an estate that doesn't screw around with multi cuvees (except for a cabernet bottling). The best of its native fruit goes into its 'regular' wine. 93+/100.

11th century roots; sangiovese, canaiolo, colorino; aged 6 months in barrels. Oh, that's fresh and Rufina black, cool, racy. Deep seated fruit concentration too. And the vintage's satin texture and bouquet potential. Yes, another winner in the series, playing well above its price level. Definitely shows the 2016 style versus the riper, more forward 2015. Now or later. 91+/100.

Dark fruit of 12. Still a youthful wine. Polish and tailoring of the estate and Rufina. A classic. Stylish. Not much barrel age expression; more revealing of the region and vintage. 92+/100.

Vinous 92/100. My notes: Has warmth and mellowness at age five from an early maturing vintage. Yes, nicely softened. Melted tannins. Good and classic sangiovese acidity. Ready for the table. Tomato friendly. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 92 - SMART BUY: 'Shows terrific Sangiovese character, delivering black currant, black cherry, graphite, leather and leafy tobacco aromas and flavors. The tannins have a stranglehold on the finish now, but this displays purity. Needs time for the two halves to come together. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera. Best from 2022 through 2035.

2016: Vinous 91: 'Casaloste's 2016 Chianti Classico is dark, powerful and also deeply expressive. Black cherry, plum, licorice, lavender and spice showcase the darker side of Sangiovese that is so typical of the wines of Panzano. Ample, creamy and full of character, the 2016 hits all the right spots. In a word: terrific. Drink now-2026. $25.'

All sangiovese; barrel aged a year. Medium dark ruddy red. Good dried cherry and orange zest sangiovese fruit. I sense glycerol too. 2019 forward. Alles in ordnung. The relative elegance of a Castellina Classico. Yes, the glycerol is there, coating fine grained tannin. Good acidity. Well balanced. A worthy representative. 92+/100. This yielded an oak dimension after aeration,

Fresh, logical style of a Greve, northern Classico. Vintage elegance and acidity. This is a throwback Classico and eminently mealworthy. Yes, the acidity of the north and the vintage. Positively needs food. 91/100.

From Greve in the north, whence come elegant Classicos; aged 10 months in French oak barrels. It does indeed exhibit the charm of a Greve classico. As well as the cherry fruited sangiovese generosity of 2018. Spot on. Yes, medium to full bodied, full flavored, well balanced by sangiovese's innate fruit acidity. Picture perfect for present service. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Almond and chestnut notes accent the cherry flavors in this broad, tannic red. Features ample fruit, while a sweetness returns at the end, suggesting that this will achieve equilibrium with time. Leather, earth and iron elements add depth. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2032. $37.'

In Greve; 90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo; minimum 6 months in oak casks. This has Carpineto and vintage lift, clarity, freshness, lack of the usual dried cherry and orange zest aroma of many a Classico--as attractive as that is. Yes, it's sweet fruited. Modern? No, just house style. The palate is true-dry, the tannins fine grained, the acid proper. Even handed and upscale as usual. Upholds this estate's high standards. 92+/100. Wine Of The Night for many attendees, and considered ready to drink.

In Greve; 90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo; minimum 6 months in oak casks. Quite open and mature going into age four, thanks to time in cooperage and 2017's forward nature. Sangiovese transformed by oak aging. Yes, the palate has mellowed nicely. Good acidity and still considerable fine grained tannin. Spicy nuances. Needs another year or two to peak out. 91+/100.

Wine Spectator 90: 'Smoky blackberry, rosemary and tar flavors predominate in this burly red, with dense, assertive tannins. This could use a little more generosity midpalate to buffer the tannins, yet persists on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2037.'

Sangioveto and canaiolo grown in limestone soil; aged in seasoned barrels. Glowing carmine color. The great elegance, the loveliest of sangiovese statements in all of Tuscany. It's always that way. Fresh versus dried fruit. Delicious fruit appeal. Oak a modest seasoning. Fine acidity. Merely a dusting of tannin. Good to go. 93/100.

92% sangiovese, 8% merlot. 12-18 months in French oak cooperage. Ruddy red color. Sweet, ripe, glycerol laden sangiovese nose. Medium bodied and right. Good ease and flow of 2019. Spicy aroma. I smell a good value. Good acid foil to the glycerol. A trace of youthful bitterness in the back. Spicy aroma. Medium bodied, balanced, no tannin issues. Regular fans will be pleased. 91+/100.

Sweet 2018 fruit, inky dark disposition of Diavole as always. The palate is loaded with dry extract, tannin, fruit material. In tune. A good vintage for this estate, and a good estate for this vintage. The vintage softens it; the house style keeps the vintage from being too tender. 92+/100.

All sangiovese; aged a year in seasoned tonneaux and barriques. Robust style of the house and Siena area origin. Shows barrel time without barrel extracts. 2021 freshness and relative levity. Nicely barrel etched, textured, burnished. Good, racy acidity. No tannic interference. A delightful amalgam of house, zone, and vintage inputs. 93+/100. Universal praise for this one. 'Wine of the Night', 'Red Wine of the Night'. Vintage elegance noted, as well as potential for growth in the cellar.

Parker 93: 'Sporting broad shoulders and a brawny texture, the 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardenga is one of those wines that you can drink throughout the entire meal from antipasto, to pasta to the meat dish. This Riserva offers dark fruit, ripe cherry, plum and soft concentration throughout. Its ample textual fiber is loosened up and refreshed by the pretty vein of crisp acidity that is so characteristic of Sangiovese. Drink now-2030.'

Est. 1904; aged a year in oak barrels. Sweet, accessible fruit of the vintage accompanied by plenty of sangiovese lift. Grows in aromatic range and interest as it airs. Yes, this has both sweetness and buoyancy. Totally harmonious and accommodating at this stage. Couldn't ask for more. 92/100.

Est. 1904; aged a year in oak barrels. Serious stuff. Superior terroir statement along with well imparted barrel sophistication and complexity. Makes for an illustrative tete a tete. Nose runs deep and persistent. Good body, flavor range, textural spiel. And balance. A lot of entertainment value here. For now or later. I say that because we've tasted older vintages within the last year, and they have thrived. 92+/100. 'Palate super nice for current drinking. Delish.'

Est. 1904; all sangiovese; aged 2 years in barriques and 6 months in bottles before release. More than a year advanced in bouquet development compared to the 2017 Vino Nobile that preceded it in the tasting order. Of course, this has had a riserva barrel regimen, which accelerates bouquet formation. A full fledged riserva fruit foundation plus the barrel time it deserves. Full bodied. Wide flavor spectrum. Plenty of texture and depth too. Long, chewy finish. 93+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'This rich red is signaled by earth and tar aromas, with flavors of black cherry, plum and iron standing up to a dense matrix of tannins. Shows breadth and power, with an aftertaste of dark fruit, earth and soy. Best from 2024 through 2037.'

90% sangiovese, 10% colorino and canaiolo; Vinous 93/100. High ratings create low needs to taste personally. I haven't enjoyed a Monsanto for several vintages. Remains up to snuff. So skillfully assembled, it's the picture of harmony and equilibrium. Fruit integrity maintained, barrel suavity and subtleties added. Just as well composed on the palate. Seamless in flavor and texture. A joy and a masterpiece. No need to postpone gratification. 94/100. Judged first class by all, in full agreement with the Vinous Media rating. Several orders taken.

Vinous 92: 'The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Ser Lapo is a powerful, wild wine. Crushed flowers, game, herbs and licorice notes give the 2018 its distinctly savory, earthy personality. Brooding in feel, the 2018 will benefit from a few years in bottle. Most of this fruit comes from Mazzei's Caggio property, the site that informs the new Ipsus wine. In my view, Ser Lapo is the hidden gem in the Mazzei range, and the wine I would most like to drink, if forced to chose just one Chianti Classico in the lineup. Drink 2023-2033.'

Not a dramatic take on GS, though the barrel regimen is alluded to. Sweet in the mouth. The tannin has pretty much melted away. Reasonable power and presence. You certainly get your money's worth. Gran Selezione is the highest ranking of Chianti Classico, and others' prices start at $40. 92+/100.

Vinous 92/100. My notes: At Gaiole; est 1730; 90% sangiovese, 5% each canaiolo, colorino; aged 1 year in large casks; unfiltered. This has range, depth, finesse, and harmony right from the first sniff. Always does. Nothing obvious here. All subtle and well integrated. Good acid, fine tannin. Balance and length. In tune. Cellar potential too. 92+/100.

At Gaiole; est 1730; 90% sangiovese, 5% each canaiolo, colorino; aged 1 year in large casks; unfiltered. Old reliable. 2018 fruit sweetness is under control. Gaiole moderation. Classic sangiovese aromatic set. Fine fruit, acid, and tannin harmony. Actually, drier and more tannic than the 2018 Tuscan norm, which bodes well for its future. Long finish. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'Bright cherry and raspberry fruit is the signature of this tightly wound red. Mineral, tobacco and rosemary accents add depth, and the vibrant structure keeps it all defined. Beautifully balanced and long, echoing the ripe fruit. Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Best from 2023 through 2037. $37.'

90% sangiovese, with canaiolo, colorino; aged 14 months in Alliers oak casks and barrels; unfiltered. Ripe, dark, and intense 2020 style. This really runs deep. And it shows positive barrel contributions that add aromatic range. Even more flavor than aroma complexity. Chewy texture, full constitution. Worth cellaring to more suavity and bottle bouquet. I love this estate's wines. 92+/100.

Vinous 95: 'Dense and opulent, and yet the acids pulse with energy, lending a feeling of translucence that becomes especially apparent on the finish.'

All sangiovese; at Greve; aged a year in Slavonian oak cooperage. This didn't exactly leap from the glass when I first opened the bottle. It aired well though. An hour later, those on my weekly wine tasting panel who shared their notes were positively enthusiastic. 'Pretty classic, older school.' 'This is really fine; best of the series; worth the price of admission. Very typical Classico style. Drinkable now, or will hold ' It was reported that the group consensus was very positive. 92+/100. That pleases me, because earlier vintages we've tasted over the last six months have proven very satisfactory.

Est 1524; at Greve; 90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo; aged 20 months in cooperage, Wine Enthusiast 91/100. A fine example of barrel aged Classico. Not woody, just rounded out and fulfilled in aromatic development. Sweet cherry flavor mellowed and complexed by barrel time. 2017's relative ease at age three, enhanced by its cooperage sojourn. Delightfully fulfilled and tannin-less for current enjoyment. Well liked by the group. 92/100.

In Castelnuovo Berardenga; aged 30 months in puncheons, 12 months in bottle. Medium dark red. Oh, that's a masterful combo of sangiovese dried cherry and orange zest and the subtle oakiness and certain suavity of long aging in cooperage. Hits my sweet spot. Carries over and builds further on the palate. Even in rich 2018, there are some obstinate fruit and oak tannins yet to shed. A really mouthfilling riserva of mealtime pleasure and cellar potential. 93+/100. Attendees were wildly enthusiastic. 'One of the better wines of the year', read a comment.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Pure and well-defined, this red features cherry, raspberry, black pepper, mineral and wild herb aromas and flavors. Starts out harmonious, turning crisp on the slightly pinched finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. The 2020 vintage is the 55th anniversary edition. Best from 2025 through 2036. $24.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'A bright, succulent style, this exudes cherry, strawberry, earth and tobacco aromas and flavors, with spicy character. Shows vibrant structure and balance, with a lingering finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2023 through 2030.'

2016: Wine Spectator 92: 'A hint of barnyard in the aroma gives way to bright cherry and strawberry fruit and vanilla and underbrush accents. Supple initially, firming up on the lingering finish. This should come around in a few years. Best from 2021 through 2029.'

Wine Spectator 94: 'A bright yet firmly structured Chianti Classico, with iron, leather, almond and floral accents surrounding a core of cherry fruit. Sleek and intense, with a lingering finish echoing cherry, red berry and mineral notes. Best from 2024 through 2040.'

2019: 75% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo, 10% cab sauv, 5% merlot. Sweet and elegant. Always the plushest and most forward of Ambra's cuvees. Yeah, gentle on the palate too, with good acid plus 2019 flow. Good year for this. 92/100.

Vinous 90: 'A pretty display of violets and lavender give way to musky blackberries. A cool-toned and round display of mineral-tinged red fruits, as sweet inner florals mount toward the close. Fine tannins frame the expression nicely.'

Estate vineyard on limestone Albrerese soil; 75% sangiovese, 10% each canaiolo, cab sauv, 5% pugnitello, foglia; aged a year of French and Slavonian cooperage. After tasting an Umbria rosso, you know you're on the opposite side of Tuscany's heart nosing this one. It's more northern, higher, cooler. And replacing sagrantino with canaiolo all the more buoys this one up. Yes, bright, crisp, and racy. Doesn't act 2018; doesn't act two years older than the Umbria rosso. And has more tannin yet! (Blame cab sauv.) Apples and oranges. 91+/100.

Oh, boy, that has aroma, body, and texture. Real deal,/ Full, flavorful, textured. The tannins are pretty fine grained. Impressive example. 91+/100.

Vinous 91: 'Rosy and floral, with a licorice tinge that complements its crushed raspberry fruits. Hard candy and sweet sage notes stick around as the 2022 tapers off with fantastic length and youthful poise. Drink 2024-2028.'

Est. mid 19th century; mainly prunolo gentile, with a little canaiolo and merlot; vines planted in 1970, 1993, 1997, and 2001; yields under 3 tons per acre. Oh, that's fresh and exuberant, and it's definitely the unique sangiovese clone befitting the zone. Cool, lifted, racy 2021 character. Fits this cuvee's nature. Special elegance to this. Yes, new and briskly tart in 2021. Texture and sweetness as well as 21 acidity. Light glycerol even. Makes my mouth water for food. Just the slightest and finest grained of tannins. Take it to the table anytime. 91/100.

2016: 80% prugnolo gentile, 20% merlot. Oh, the brightness, the clarity, the lift of DOCG and local sangiovese clone. This brilliantly portrays all. If you told me it was a Vino Nobile itself, I wouldn't argue. Yes, silk textured, refined, flavorful, 2016 restrained and elegant. This is a textbook example right down to the hint of violets on the aftertaste. 93+/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'Expressive and rangy, this red offers mushroom, woodsy underbrush, cherry and plum aromas and flavors, with accents of cinnamon, mineral and tobacco that add depth. Balanced and long finish. Drink now through 2026. $34.'

Wine Spectator 93 - TOP 100: 'A smooth red, with cherry, plum and spice flavors shaded by savory underbrush and wild herb accents. Shows iron and tobacco details on the long finish, with fine balance and grip overall. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo. Best from 2024 through 2040. $37.'

Vinous 93: 'Keeps me coming back to the glass to take in its darkly floral mix of plums, black cherries and sage. It coasts across the palate, lifted and finessed, with savory spices and saline minerals infusing its tart wild berry with tremendous depth. Drink 2024-2030.'

90% prugnolo gentile; 5% each canaiolo, merlot; vines 21-50 years old; 18 months minimum in French oak cooperage. Glowing ruddy red. Color and nose alike are evidence of the long stay in cooperage. Proper Vino Nobile middle weight. Great acidity. The flavors are advanced by this aging process, yet the tannins remain stubborn, albeit fine grained. Should cellar admirably. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 90: 'A vibrant, balanced red, this delivers cherry and raspberry fruit on a rich texture, backed by dense, dusty tannins. Needs grilled meat or a hearty ragù. Drink now through 2025. $30.'

2018: Good to nose this after more aeration. It was a bear on opening last week. More fruit softness, spread, and revelation. Even more on the palate. Rosso fruit expression and brunello style intensity and depth. Well worth a premium 92+/100.

2018: Vinous 92: 'Bright deep red. High-pitched, spicy aromas of crushed red berries and plum lifted by a whiff of rose petal. A juicy, sweet, rather full-bodied and easygoing fruit bomb, with good energy to its creamy red berry flavors. Nicely precise on the long finish. An easy to love wine. $28.'

Vinous 92: 'Bright deep red. High-pitched, spicy aromas of crushed red berries and plum lifted by a whiff of rose petal. A juicy, sweet, rather full-bodied and easygoing fruit bomb, with good energy to its creamy red berry flavors. Nicely precise on the long finish. An easy to love wine. $28.'

That's brunello. Has real fortitude and the proper rosso retreat from Brunello's long barrel age. Rich and penetrating 2018 fruit intensity. All conveyed on the palate. Power, size, scope, fullness, persistence. Worth every penny. 93+/100.

Parker 91: 'Wild roses, cassis and lavender open the bouquet of the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino. Uccelliera offers a terrific Rosso in this vintage with slightly more concentration and volume compared to previous editions. This wine has a pretty floral component that underlines the delicate, elegant and streamlined personality of this classic Rosso. Drink now-2025.'

An intense and vigorous rosso. The class of brunello fruit stands out, as it should in a rosso. Oh, and the palate stamps full confirmation. Just the right combo of fruit, class, light barrel augmentation. Great acidity; fine tannin. Hallmark. 93+/100. Will wax larger in the cellar, though you could put it to use near term.

Vinous 91: 'Bright, lively red. Classic aromas of redcurrant, leather, licorice and violet, plus a whiff of peppery herbs. Offers excellent sweetness in the mouth, with lovely perfumed lift to the flavors of red berries, leather and dried flowers. Very pure, lifted wine. Drink now-2024.'

James Suckling 97; Vinous 93; Parker 92: 'The Castiglion del Bosco project is a dream created by Massimo Ferragamo of Italy's celebrated leather and fashion family. The property includes a state-of-the-art winery and a luxury hotel. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds to reveal textbook aromas of black fruit and ripe cherry. For sure, the wine embraces a soft and contemporary personality with a good amount of fruit weight, oak spice and tannins. It registers 15% alcohol. The warm 2017 vintage brings out the softer, richer side of this Sangiovese from galestro soils.'

James Suckling 93/100. My notes: Medium dark red with some browning from barrel and bottle age. Wonderfully sweet and forward 2017 style. Relatively lithe and flowing in the scheme of things. What a relief!/ Well, drier on the palate, naturally. Full measure of drying tannins in the back. Comes with the territory. Nose says go, palate says wait. All is in order. 93+/100.

Vinous 93: 'The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Molino del Piano bristles with earthy minerals, savory herbs, and animal tones, with sour cherry and hints of dried strawberries in the background. On the palate, soft textures give way to a zesty expression, as brisk acids energize a mix of spiced cherry, and inner florals, with earthy mineral tones forming toward the finale. The finish is long and spicy, resonating on floral-laced red fruits and a buzz of lingering acids. The 2015 Molino del Piano is a bit beastly, like an unruly teenager, but I must admit that I like it quite a bit. Drink now-2030.'

On the Montalcino hill, consisting of vineyards once belonging to Biondi Santi; average vine age 25 years; aged 2 years in Slavonian oak barrels. 2014 black and still firm. It's Brunello after all. While I'm sure this was a bear at release, it's beginning to yield a few secrets. And it's no longer dry and abrasive to sniff. Yes, there's some forgiveness on the palate too. The tannins are beginning to melt. Can be served yet this winter with roasts and stews. More bouquet to come. I like its position. 93+/100. List price: $65.

Parker 94+: 'The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is buoyant and lifted with lots of bright cherry and raspberry fruit that pops from the glass. Despite the heat and the drought of the growing season, this wine produces grace and softness with ethereal layers of balsam herb, cola and dried rose potpourri. The finish is dry, tight and firm but also silky and long. This is a terrific effort from Piancornello. Drink 2024-2040.'

Parker 91: 'The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows some ripe, hot-vintage fruit with baked cherry and strawberry confit. There is a softness to the wine, which is enhanced by bigger fruit weight and fiber and more of those dark fruit characteristics. Sangiovese always counters with fresh acidity, and this element helps to balance out this wine on the mid-weight finish. This is an accessible, near-term Brunello. Drink 2023-2035. $55.'

Parker 92; Vinous 92: 'Bright red. Very perfumed floral nose of red berries and minty herbs. High but harmonious acidity lifts and extends the strawberry, orange peel and mineral flavors on the long, vibrant back end. The wine ages roughly 24 months in 33-hL Slavonian oak casks. Scopetone's Brunellos are always some of the shrillest, most taut and pristine wines made in all of Montalcino, though at times they could use just a touch more flesh. That recognized, I love the floral perfume, very juicy strawberry flavors and mineral edge that give this wine a unique personality among Montalcino's greats. Drink 2022-2035.$69.

Vinous 91: 'This is already easy to appreciate. Soft tannins giving way to fleshy ripe red fruits and a mix of savory and sweet herbs, inner leather and floral tones. The finish is long, displaying staining dark fruits and sweet florals.'

Parker 94: 'The Uccelliera 2017 Brunello di Montalcino does a great job showcasing that extra power and brawn of the vintage and the richer textural structure of the southern side of the appellation. The bouquet is up front and beautifully measured with lots of red and purple fruit definition followed by spice, tar and earthiness. What sets this wine apart in this hot and dry vintage is the mouthfeel. It delivers fiber, flesh and soft tannins. Drink 2024-2040. $83.'

2015: Big, big, big. Powerful, loaded for bear, barrel impacted. Monster Brunello. 2015 gives forward fruit flavor and volume, so it's not a nasty young mouthful. Clearly cellarworthy too. 95+/100.

70% sangiovese, 15% ciliegiolo, 15% montepulciano. 6 months in cooperage. Youthfully black for varieties and age. Shows barrel extract and age influences. Pretty complicated nose. Invites investigation. Equally so for the palate. More maturity here, all positive. Yeah, this is one to contemplate. 92+/100.

Cab sauv, merlot, cab franc, petit verdot. Wow, this is a big boy! Claret in Tuscany. Enhanced fortitude. Full fruit set concentration and barrel augmentations. Abundant sweet fruit takes up the barrels' spice givings. Fine balance and fine tannins. What Bolgheri's all about, at a fraction of Sassicaia's price. 95+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'A savory version, revealing cedar, tomato leaf, tobacco and earth tones surrounding black cherry and plum fruit. Beefy, with a dense structure and well-integrated tannins. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2025 through 2037.'

Wow, full blown fruit of 2018. Very flattering to this cuvee. There are senses of barrel sojourn and extracts too. Palate features more solidity and cellar potential. The price-quality ratio is favorable as usual. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 90: 'This expressive red offers dusty cherry, raspberry, Mediterranean scrub and rosehip tea flavors. Fresh and lively, with a pleasantly astringent finish. Alicante Nero, Mourvèdre and Carignano. $28.'

One of the most sumptuous of these thanks to the forward nature of the vintage. Tuscany's Deep South talking. Dark, tarry, and spicy too. Wow nose. Some welcome levity as well as full flavor and taste range, with the tar and spices echoing on the palate. Softness and bouquet still forming, yet no doubt mealworthy right now. 93+/100.

Parker 94: 'The 2016 Ampeleia is an organic expression of Cabernet Franc made with 10% whole-cluster fruit and fermented in a combination of large oak casks and cement. Fruit is drawn from a high-altitude site with calcareous clay soils, representing the best of Roccatederighi (the town where this winery is located). This vintage reveals sharpness and focus with cherry, wild berry and cassis. At the back, it offers distinctive notes of licorice, tar and crushed stone. The aromas fall together with exceptional precision. Drink now - 2035. $42.'

Wine Spectator 93: 'An intense nose of ripe blackberry, black cherry and black currant fruit is supported by hints of wild juniper, rosemary, sage and iron. Silky in texture and well-structured, this is long and charming from beginning to end. Drink now through 2025. $42.'

Six grape varieties: cab sauv, merlot, syrah, sangiovese, montepulciano, petit verdot. Grown on the 42nd Parallel. Warm, ripe, clear, and spicy. All the varietals seem to pitch in to make the whole greater than the sum of the parts. Plus a riserva aura of barrel aging. Yes, indeed, the palate is equally impressive for its range and amplitude. This fills and thrills. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'Dense and ripe, featuring black cherry, blackberry, plum, vanilla, cedar and toast notes, with refined tannins and bright acidity powering the long, mineral-tinged aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2030. $55.'

50% sangiovese, 25% each merlot, cab sauv; 20 year old seaside vineyard; aged a year in concrete vats. The coolness of Maremma environs are paramount. Interplay of sangiovese red fruits and Bordeaux black fruits. All about Maremma. Relatively soft and approachable 2019 palate. Real flavor burst. Great overall harmony here; should age famously. What it intends to be. Everything this producer touches turns to gold. 92+/100. Red Wine of the Night for one commentator.

Briefly aged in seasoned barriques. Brightness of a cool zone and vintage. Sweet black fruit cremes of this cuvee. Put them together, and you have one of the best in the series. Yes, the inherent richness meets good and fresh acidity to form a delightful balance. Simply delish. Dusting of fine tannin at the end adds textural interest. 91/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Intense aromas and flavors of black currant, violet, cedar and tobacco haunt this fresh, brooding red. A dose of oak adds tar and spice notes as this lingers on the finish. Powerful. Best from 2016 through 2024. $32 750ml.' From magnum, this will continue to drink well beyond 2024.

Very elegant, cherry driven morellino. Sangiovese of southern Tuscany for sure. Really good, and user friendly. Just entirely fruit driven. Perfect morellino. Ease, flow, come hither. And it does have amplitude, fortitude, grip too. Lovely, lovely example. 93/100.

85% sangiovese, 10% alicante, 5% ciliegiolo; unwooded. The showy performance of sangiovese (aka morellino) from Tuscany's deep south. The alicante kicks in to enrich the nasal experience further. What I'm looking for in a Scansano wine. Yes, fully ripe and sweet cherry with lacings of tarry tannins. Useful now with hearty fare, I'd deem it a sleeper in the cellar as well. 92+/100.

Est. 2001; Lampo was the founder's grandfather's nickname; 90% sangiovese from Tuscany's deep south; aged 15-18 months in tonneaux and 2-3 year old barriques;. Pretty Heavy Bottle Award. Forward now in a forward vintage and southern exposure. There's the warm savor of southern sangiovese plus some bottle bouquet forming at age 4 plus. Sweet fruit of the zone's sangiovese. Fine tannin promises good mid term cellar potential. Worth keeping another year or two. 91+/100.

Parker 94: 'Showing an orange-copperish color, the 2011 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (in a 375-milliliter bottle) brings us great intensity and a real sense of inner firmness and tightness. Emerging from a hot vintage, we get a bonus layer of exuberance and intensity, dishing out honey, candied apricot and brown sugar. This is a classic dessert wine from Tuscany and an extremely accessible expression, almost tailored for Vin Santo newbies. Pair it with the region's famous cantucci biscotti (with a dip or two inside the wine). This Vin Santo is made with equal parts Trebbiano and Malvasia, and the wine is aged in caratelli barrels for seven years. Drink now-2040.'

Wine Spectator 97/100. My notes: Trebbiano, malvasia, sangiovese; dried 3 months; aged 7 years in caratelli on the 'mother'. A deep orange color from the sangiovese component. I don't remember this in vintages ten years back. Sweet and succulent. Deep, round, and rich melange of dried fruits and nuts. Add a red peels extract nuance. Fully sweet; decadent. Acid coated but still peeks through to give balance. Again, the red fruit makes a positive addition to the usual formula. Totally awesome, dude. 98+/100.

2009: 14.5%; all trebbiano. Sweet, strong, woody, fruity. Palo cortado sherry like. Sweet and tawny, like a 10 year old white port. Large, powerful, sweet. At the same time rangy, complex, brightly acidic. Persistent fruit and texture. Everlasting. 97/100.

Parker 94: 'Il Poggione's 2007 Sant'Antimo Vin Santo Riserva (packaged in a 500-milliliter bottle) shows a light gold appearance with some faint amber intensity. The bouquet reveals signs of evolution with butterscotch and caramel followed by honey and burnt sugar. However, the fruit is still there with layers of dried apricot and white raisin. This Vin Santo represents a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, and the grapes are left to dry for 90 days. It ages for 10 years in small caratelli barrels. This is a medium-weight dessert wine to pair with lady finger or cream pastries. Drink now-2035. $67.'

Est. 1987; sandy soil; aged on lees until spring. Very, very pretty, dainty nose. 2021 crispness. Depth and aroma delivery both outstanding. Scores for both elegance and varietal essence. Flavorful; about all the flavor one could coax from vernaccia. While retaining 2021 acidity and fine framing. All the attributes of the well liked 2020, plus the 2021 extra raciness. Very popular with the group. 92/100.

Family estate est. 1949 at Pancole, 4 miles outside San Gimignano. Upon opening, accurate if modest in varietal expression and range. More to say on the palate, as it warms and spreads out in both flavor and texture. Great acid of 2021. Well balanced and mealworthy. Fills the bill. 90/100. Aeration had an enormous effect, this becoming so exaggerated in poached pear and spice aromas as well as glycerol viscosity as to exceed vernaccia norms. Attendee orders taken.

Owns the largest expanse of vernaccia vineyards, 150 acres. More pinched and reticent in cool 2021 that the previous three vintages. Sample still pretty cold. More aromatic profile as it warms in the mouth. Great acid, of course. Also nicely rounded fruit and emerging flavor display. After aeration, flavorful, well textured, well balanced. Yeah, I like this for its flexible prospects at the table. In turn with the series while showing vintage characteristics too. Universally appreciated by attendees. 92/100.

Mostly sangiovese, with some sagrantino; no barrel aging. The innate sur-maturitie of sagrantino sure makes an impact on the nose. Oh, and it adds sweetness to the sangiovese dried cherry and orange zest flavor set. I wasn't so keen on this months back. It still has a modicum of tannin to resolve, but that no longer precludes current table service. A satisfying example of Umbria rosso. 91/100.

Est. 1884; 'banish the devils'; 70% sangiovese, 30% merlot; unwooded. 2015 ripe but not overdone. The sangiovese sweet cherry and orange zest dominance. Merlot adds some fat to the meat. Dash of astringency right off, a surprise this vintage. Sweet fruit coats its tannins to a large extent. This is mellowing out. Good winter 2022-2023 candidate. 91+/100.

90% sangiovese, 10% colorino. I've had decades with these, and this is the fullest, sweetest, and most intense I've experienced. There are barrel extras too. Well, the palate exploits all and adds lovely textural range and harmony. Fine tannins only add to length and appeal. I'm very pleasantly surprised. 92/100.

Medium dark. Maturing nicely. Holding that 16 linear styling the critics respect. Softening agreeably with age. Good 16 form and acidity. Will keep improving in the bottle. 91+/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'A creamy dessert wine, with rich flavors of date, eucalyptus, fig cake, vanilla and singed orange peel set in an elegant frame that stays light-footed. Silky, offering a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2025. $45 half bottle.'

13.5%. 30% each sangiovese, montepulciano, merlot, 10% cesanese. 15 sweet meets regional cool and tart. Unique. Yeah, brisk acid. Not much 15 character after all. Dry and well balanced. For food. 91/100.

Est. 1967, 30 miles south of Rome. A very nice expression of the variety. Thankfully, a handful have come forth lately. Has freshness and proper material structure and filling, without being BIG. Yes, the sweet/acid balance that makes it so mealworthy. Merely the level of tannins that give texture, not obstinance. I like this source and will support it. 91+/100.

Bellone is a white grape variety of the area. And a damn nice one too. The nose has a sauvignon incisiveness, yet more subtle in aroma. I like it. Yeah, there's that citricity too. Quite its own thing. Long finish. Good price. Will stock. 91/100.

Est. 1958 in the Colli Albani region just south of Rome; specializes in the local variety cesanese, the plantings of which have been in decline for many years. Fresh, cool fruited, and firm young 2021. The innate class and character of cesanese both evident. Sleek and racy 2021 style. Clear varietal character. Good acid, fine grained tannin. This works with food already and will keep getting better. 91+/100.

Full color. A good representative of this Latium variety. Plenty of fruit presence, force, goodness. Flavor-wise as well. A lesson in cesanese. Big mouthful of flavors and textures. Fine tannins just add to the play for mealtime service. Deal. Got ta have it. 92/100.

Montepulciano stature and darkness. Superiore power. The real deal in a keeper sort of Piceno. 2018 rich, round, ripe fruit envelopes the tannin for the most part, though it has a chewy effect at the end. First Piceno Superiore I've tasted, yet it all makes sense. Keep a year longer. Very reasonable price for a cellarworthy wine. 91+/100.

70% montepulciano, 30% sangiovese; 30 year old vines; no barrel aging. Dark, upbeat, and intensely montepulciano purple stuff, including violets. Rounded, softened with bottle age, yet retaining that Rosso Piceno consummate brightness. Melted tannins. A good example in a forward vintage. A group favorite. 92/100.

A rightful Piceno. Seems more montepulciano than sangiovese. Proper middle weight. Fresh and delightful aroma. One of the freshest I've had, and that's good, though I customarily encounter and enjoy Picenos at around age three. Bright acidity, including a dash of positive VA. Ready to serve, actually. Good price. This will fit in the VC portfolio. 91/100.

Three generation estate and keeper of the obscure Marche variety lacrima. Boy, that's a dark one. Dark fruited too. Black plum, licorice, and a dab of pitch. Unique and impressive. Dusky, solid. Good acidity. Considerable, yet fine grained, tannins. I'd be cellaring this awhile. A good example of a rare grape. 91+/100.

Very fresh and tingly 2021 cool style. Subtle varietal flavors. Some padding as well as cut. Not too big for its boots like a lot of new wave verdicchios. I applaud that. The cool vintage helps. Good now. 91/100.

40 year old vines; aged 3 months on lees. Soft, ample, agreeably balanced presentation renders this entirely appealing in youth. And the palate confirms its welcoming, open armed approach. Aroma and flavor both subtle and correct. Adequate acidity for refreshment. Virtually a quaffer. 91/100. Aromatics blossomed and spread out as this aired, winning attendees' admiration as have previous vintages.

2019: 40 year old vines; aged 3 months on lees. Quite full; almost as full as a Matelica. Really attractive fruit profile. Yes, full. Herbal and mineral notes. Well grounded. 91/100.

This has the proper verdicchio aroma, a little on the green side in cool 2021. The taste is accurate and vigorous. The bracing acid welcome. And the price inviting. All around good guy. 91/100.

Vinous 90: 'Mixes exotic florals with minty herbs and a hint of sour melon to form its invigorating bouquet. Finishes with cheek-puckering tension.'

Vinous 91: 'Nuanced in the glass, requiring coaxing to unlock its pretty mix of nectarines tinged with lime, sliced vanilla bean and sweet herbs. The 2021 is a fabulous and perfectly balanced expression of Matelica.'

Monte depth, 2021 lift. Oh, yes, both. Fresh and full. Great balance of acid, texture, and filling. Finest of tannins. Ready to serve. 91/100.

Dark color. Ripe and spicy. A good full one with variegated texture. Very, very generous. Yeah, this delivers fruit, spices, richness, vigor. Great balance as well as give. Generous indeed. 92/100.

From the hilly section of the region. Welcome moderation at 12%. Spot on cool year monte with lots of classy varietal character. Good race and ripeness both. Yeah, both, plus extract, texture, flavor, balance, acid for food. 91/100.

Dark red violet. Rich, black fruited take on monte. Hint of the elusive violets is there. Yes. Full bodied, rich in fruit substance. No tannin issues. Unique in its genre. And attractive. 91/100.

At Villamagna, a choice subzone of Chieti province; hillside vineyards. Dark red black. 2021 brightness amidst impressively rich and ripe monte statements. Yes, both acidity and fruit material concentration. Manageable tannin adds texture. Delivers a lot of wine for the price. 91+/100. Agreed: 'a really nice wine; quite delish; vanilla and cherry; smooth and rich; a bargain'.

Good Monte purple cast. Both the size and the elegance. The elusive violets aroma. And flavor. Well textured, well balanced. An harmonious, upscale Monte. It always is. 91+/100.

From the esteemed subzone Villamagna; named for stones in the necropolis of Fossa; aged a year or more in barriques. Richness of the vintage, barrel assuaged, and nicely along at age five. Firm core yet. Dry fruit and wood tannins. Still, the flavors come pouring through. Love its structure for cellar potential. Surely an upscale Monte well worth the premium price. 92+/100.

2018: Only half a percent more alcohol than its two table mates, but I can smell the extra power. Less fruit aroma the first evening. Fruitier to the taste. This has personality and varietal ID on the palate. Fine acidity. 91/100.

Lovely deep red violet. Ah, the elegance of montepulciano, including the cherished violets highlight. Shows the way. Echoes on the palate. Oh, this is a charmer. Well balanced on the sweet-acid scale. Finest of tannins add texture for food service. Got to have it. 92/100.

Fresh dark fruit of 2021. Yes. GREAT acid. Plenty of sweet fruit flavor foil. Super food wine. 91/100.

Massale selection vines averaging 56 years; at 1200 feet. Deep red violet. Superb old vines concentration. Total montepulciano integrity--a noble variety when not overproduced. Clear and brilliant barrel augmentations that speak of time in cooperage as well as subtle and complexing oak extracts. Full flavor, extract, texture. Fine tannins. Perfect balance for its youth. Finish goes on and on. Definitely a 2me Grand Cru in MdA. 94+/100.

Full, rich, sweet, and forward. Totally inviting. Yes, thorough appeal. Good acid; good balance. Has it all together as always. Lasting finish wisped clean by its acidity. 91/100, at least.

'Tralcetto' is a vine cutting tied with straw to each bottle neck; unwooded. Old reliable, if not the barrel aged riserva it used to be. Good monte fruit all the same. Rich and right. Balanced, textured, lengthy. Good acid and dusting of fine tannin. You get your money's worth still. 91/100.

Suckling 92: 'This is a wonderful Montepulciano that shows pure lavender and violet character, in addition to citrus and fresh herbs. Very dialed-in fruit and polished tannins and a vibrant finish. Great value!'

'Cerasuolo was born out of circumstance, Montepulciano vines planted on hillsides often wouldn't reach full ripeness like the vines on the plains leading to a vibrant and semi translucent red wine. Cerasuolo is often lumped into the 'rose' category but in fact is just a very light colored red that you serve chilled, Tiberio's Cerasuolo is produced from a single block of Montepulciano that is on average much cooler than the rest of the vineyard.' It's the desired light cherry red color. And cherry aroma spread. Bing, montmorency, maraschino. What fun!/ Flavors confirm. Great fruit acidity. We need more of these ultra light red wines. Veneto reds used to be like this. So much cuisine cries out for these. 'Bigger is better' mentality killed them. 92/100. Gang-busters group favorite. Many orders taken.

Dark red violet. Dense, purple fruited varietal statement. Not without cool and cherished violets overtones. Rich flavored and texture. This really delivers varietal character to an intense and thorough degree. Fine grained tannins give texture and are not at the level that they would interfere with current mealtime service. 92+/100.

Oh, this is striking! The most pungent and precise pecorino I've nosed. Didn't realize it has so many aromatics to it. Great range of fruits and flowers on the palate too. Succulent, well balanced, delicious. Got to have it. 92/100.

Abruzzo features two white grape varieties, pecorino and trebbiano. The former sports stone fruit aromatics. Fresh, bright, varietal character. 22 ease. Right. More flavor still. Soft, fruity 2022 style. Shows the way. 91/100.

18 year old vines in the Carinola vineyard on volcanic soil. Deep, rich, and ripe for 2021. Black fruit and basalt undertones. Through all the richness of fruit, that great 2021 acidity. Fine tannin for balance, texture, and longevity. 91+/100. Well liked by attendees; many orders taken.

From Capaccio-Paestum area vineyards in the middle of Cilento National Park. Oh, what a big burst of varietal aroma, lifted by cool vintage acidity. Most forthcoming in the series. Black fruit and pepper flavors. Cool and flowing. The alcohol is ventilating too. Medium bodied. Great acid. 91+/100.

Est. 1996. Full red violet color. Wow, that's a really ample aglianico for Campania. More like a Vulture version. Deep aromas of black fruit, tar, and peppery spices. Surprisingly sweet and accommodating on the palate. The nose suggests more tannin. Unique and beguiling take Mealworthy, ageworthy. Lasting aftertaste. 92+/100.

Aged a year in French barriques and a year in Slavonian oak casks. Well, both the oak and the stoutness of Taurasi to handle that much oak are well illustrated. And the sweetness of 2018 ripe fruit. Great acid for 2018. All bodes well for long life in the cellar at a bargain price as Taurasis go. 93+/100.

100% varietal; 20 year old vines on the slopes of Vesuvius. Rich, round, robust, and classic to zone and varietal. Another winner in the series. Yes, tremendous flavor spread and appeal. Perfect balance of all flavor and texture elements. No waitin', no hesitatin'. 92/100.

From vineyards in the Capaccio-Paestrum area in the middle of Cilento National Park. Even more exuberant than the 21 Fiano, as expected. Finally got the service order right. Fiano is considered the superior variety, but it's less expressive when young. Oh, this is very floral. And equally well balanced in the same way. More abundantly flavorful still. A shade thinner in texture though. That begs the question of the service order. 91/100. Preferred by most attendees for superior entertainment value at this juncture.

18 year old vines in Carinola Vineyard on the slopes of the Roccamonfina volcano. Nectar and flowers varietal aroma. This outfit does everything right. Yes, the light glycerol cut through fully by incisive 2021 acid. At a great stage. 92/100.

Oldest family estate on the Sorrento Peninsula. Nice to see a fresh vintage of this because, oh boy, it really pumps out the varietal character. Likely grown at lower altitude than many of the falanghinas we've tasted, it's plumper and more forward than the norm. Still, 2021 takes care of any acid wants. Wow, what flavor intensity and varietal definition. The price is nice too. A trace of bitterness at the finale doesn't bother me. 92/100. Attendees got a whiff of oak, which surprises me. No one objected; it was widely appealing. 'Lots of depth of fruit; very long.'

Est. 1996. Attractive white and yellow fruits here. And throw in a bouquet of white flowers. Pawpaw and honeysuckle flavors. Full textured, and quite full bodied white of the south. Good acid, mineral, balance, length. The group liked this one. 91+/100.

Est. 1576; the estate boasts vines up to 200 years old. A hefty take on falanghina not without the appropriate orchard fruit aromatics. One of the fullest bodied I've encountered. Oh, and so much more stone fruit flavor and richness on the palate while continuing to maintain its emphasis on weight and texture. Honestly, one of the most nostril and mouthfilling of its genre I've encountered. Bravo! 93/100. Very well received. 'Super aggressive flavor and vary expressive of the variety.' 'As good an example as I've come across.'

Fullest colored of the Pagano white trio, which includes is falanghina and greco. Indeed, a honeyed roundness and delicate type of honey aroma. Deeper, darker form of honey on the palate. Acid 2021 bright. This trio is a textbook comparison of Campania's three prominent white varietals. 92/100.

No malolactic fermentation; aged 6 months on lees. Early suggestions of fiano honey, nectar, and flowers. Coolness and briskness of 2021 will stand this well as it develops full varietal and DOCG character. A stronger varietal statement on the palate, focused by that great 2021 acidity. Oh, boy, for its classic flavor profile, I'm ready to serve it up now. Long and flavorful aftertaste. And, wait, the nose is coming forth with aeration too. 92+/100. List price: $22.

From vineyards in the Capaccio-Paestrum area in the middle of Cilento National Park. Pretty talkative fiano. Honey and flowers and stone fruits. 2021 brightness. Equally flavorful. Fresh and well balanced from a round vs crisp standpoint. Very inviting and mealworthy. Good finish that extends the balanced impression. 91/100. Praised by all commentators, one suggesting it will improve another year or two.

Fresh and peppery. Yes!/ Peppery and sweet and spicy. No zinfandel marks. Its own thing. Reflects previous vintages. 91/100.

Half each primitivo, negroamaro. Salento talking. Warm and savory, bouquet nicely advanced thanks to age and vintage inclination. Oh, plush fruit cremes and hint of brown spices. Come hither. 91/100.

2019: Purple fruit contrast of negroamaro. Drier and more settled in. Mmm, delicious plum and violets flavors. Spot on varietal character, with 2018 lusty demeanor. 91/100.

2016: Est. 1600s; aged 15 months in barrels. Color moving to red orange with age. Negramaro (unique spelling here) sweet black depths. A much younger nose than the color would suggest. Vigorous and vital definition of the variety. Some forgiving bouquet now forming in the background. Yes, varietal blackness, sweetness, freshness. Splendid take at a delicious stage. Sweet and gentle fruit finish. 92/100.

Vines average 80 years; aged in second fill French and American oak barrels for 4 months. Lower key aroma than the previous pair of 2022 vintage wines. Perhaps in an aromatic trough. Suggestions of fruit sweetness on the nose are nicely confirmed on the palate. Good acid and texture. Would like a little more flavor boost. Will likely come. No tannin issues. 91+/100. Well, this surely came out of its shell after further aeration: 'Huge fruit, some complexity, long, a big, juicy wine.' To err is human. To air is vinous.

Properly dark, red violet color. And equally proper noseful of varietal black fruit., cool and deep. Even a hint of violets. Spells it out. Equally as explicit on the palate. Cool and racy and well balanced. These San Marzanos really show the way. 92/100.

15 year old vines in clay; difficult to grow variety, so disappearing; unoaked. Oh, unique, high toned, even floral. Certainly doesn't suggest feet in clay. Nice fluidity and ease of 2017. Gentle acidity. A bottle will disappear quickly at the table. 91/100.

Cooperative est. 1960; vineyards in the Murgian hills west of Ruvo; once obscure grape variety planted more widely in the region today. Deep and alluring and complicated NdT nose. Classic. Round glycerol, good power and acid. Suave aftertaste. This grape has never failed me. 91/100. Popular with both commentators, and, apparently, with others as well. Labeled a 'sleeper'.

Mellow, mature bouquet, warm and inviting. Yes, nicely softened now. All the same, good acidity for balance. At a comfortable stage, with light dash of tannin for texture. Modest 12.5% alcohol, and all the better for it. We enjoyed with a hamburger casserole. 91/100.

Dense and powerful at 14%. Thick, mouthfilling texture. Some tannin to shed still. Takes up lots of space. 90+/100. List price: $20.

Sasso = calcareous stone; aged a year in large cooperage. Heavy Bottle Award that's not usually bestowed upon a wine in this price range. First class cork too. Rich, deep, and ripe as usual. In spades on the palate. BBQ ribs wine. 91/100.

2020: Raspberry and seed aroma relates it to zinfandel. Great clarity to its varietal character. Lots of peppery berry seed flavor. This is really exemplary of primitivo in a straight forward, unadorned style. 92/100.

Rightly sweet smelling and syrupy. Sweetness countered by more power here (14.5%) and a nice dusting of fine tannin. Well conceived and executed. And well priced! Vine age: 25-35 years. Half the bunches are stem twisted on the vine so they dry out. Harvest follows 12 days later. 1/4 aged 8 months in French and American barriques. 92/100.

Soft and pleasing on the approach. Understated varietal character of black fruit and black pepper. Medium bodied. Smooth textured. Good acidity. Easy drinkin'. Sally loved it. 90/100. List price: $15.

Logically both sweet and fresh combo of zone and vintage. Fruity and inviting house style. Yes, fruity, flavorful, easy flowing. Well balanced and meal worthy. All as intended. 91/100.

Raspberry and seed aroma relates it to zinfandel. Great clarity to its varietal character. Round and sweetly ripe fruit. Yes, lots of varietal flavor. Lots of peppery berry seed flavor. Good acid and framing too. Bargain intro to primitivo. Fine tannin adds to the texture. This is really exemplary of primitivo in a straight forward, unadorned style. 92/100.

Est. 1895; all negroamaro; aged 6 months in barriques. The name has geographic meaning; it's not appassimento. Sweet and dark fruited negroamaro with extra freshness and lift thanks to the cool vintage. In tune with the series and tweaked by the vintage. Sweet fruited and delicious. Always is. Superior acidity this year. Suave, well balanced, ready for service. What's not to like-! 91/100.

Est. 1921; barrique aged a year in French and American oak. Heavy Bottle Award. Dark red black with some color evolution after eight years. Sweet and hearty 2015 style. The alcohol is welcome and actually somewhat cooling. Palate even sweeter, close to literally. Suavity earned, vitality preserved. Excellent with pulled pork and beef brisket BBQ. No doubt discounted for age. Win-win for the buyer. 91/100.

Baked and dried fruit aromas and plenty of power. Spicy overtones. Raisined ripeness of a hot vintage and zone. This has a lot to offer for the price. Got to have it. 91/100.

Aromas of plum pudding, cherry pie, and pipe tobacco. Dustings of cocoa, mocha, and vanilla. Powerful, concentrated, barrel enhanced. Even more ample and awesome in the mouth. Sweet, large, balanced. A whopper. The mother of all primitivos. 95/100.

Latest release; negroamaro; DOC in Salento, Puglia. Cork paleness and spread suggest recent bottling. Richly burnished bouquet indicative of a long stay in cooperage. The ripeness of the vintage is very flattering to this. Perhaps the fruitiest of the series on the palate thanks to 2015 character and less cask age than the last few releases. No problems of prosperity though. Flavorful, well balanced, nicely matured for current drinking. No tannin issues. Steady fans will be pleased. 91/100.

Aged 6-12 months in second year American oak barrels and French tonneaux. Very fresh, very intense, swelling, penetrating. I sense a bargain here--nothing new to Gricos. Sweet black fruit. Aglianico size, flavor and texture dimensions. Mouthfilling. Soft tannins enhance the texture without postponing the pleasures. 92+/100.

Vines 25-40 yrs old in volcanic soil; aged 6-12 months in once used French barriques. The flagship wine; not the Gricos. Good as that is, this one has more concentration and depth. Oh, and that cherry, tar, and roses spread that marks this the Barolo of the South. Barrel aging adds to the complexity. Young and tannic still, especially for 2017. One ambitious, cellarworthy aglianico. 92+/100.

From a neighboring vineyard of vines over seventy years old that were at risk of going untended. The name Sceg, means pomegranate in Arbereshe, which is a dialect spoken by Albanians who emigrated to southern Italy centuries ago. Wow, that's poignant and unique within the DOCG and varietal genres. Very special old vines take. Perhaps old clones. Yes, full old vines concentration of both flavor and texture. Less oaky than the more expensive estate bottling. The fruit doesn't need the assist. Tannin well managed; good cellar potential. 94+/100.

Est. 2009; 50-60 year old vines at 1300-1800'; 40% aged in second year barriques. Heavy Bottle Award. Heavy aglianico build. Stuffed with varietal extracts. The aromas begin to soar after brief aeration. Full and flavorful. Fine example of the DOCG. Well balanced. Weighty, loaded. A worthy successor to the fine 2019. Will stand a little longer cellar time in order to augment breadth and depth. The goods are here. 93+/100.

Adds the nerello maraschino to frappato's bing cherry. Yes, sweet nerello in the mix. Work together well. Good acidity for food. Long finish. 92/100.

2020: Cool, crisp, maraschino aroma. In tune. Yes, plenty of fruit and the right measure of crisp acidity. Works. 91+/100.

That's a pure and loveable nero d'avola, no other more so. Perfumed, deep, smooth and sweet. Gives the variety a new dimension. Just as unique and satisfying on the palate. Great acidity, race, flavor. Shows the way. 92/100.

This is really a well extracted nero. The taste is equally saturated. Complete. Deal. 91/100.

A winner. Sweet and prominent, great, great cherry like fruit. One of the most giving reds of the whole trade show. Pleasing palate if not quite as forthcoming yet. Pretty classy nero. I like the way its put together. 91+/100.

Cherry and tar. Just right. Proper power (13%), fruit ripeness, overall dryness. Yes, fruit sweetness and power in harmony. Strikes a delicious equilibrium. 91/100.

Fresh and full. Personality and push. Flavorful. Cedar note. Tells the tale. 91/100.

Varietally rich, racy, all. Yes, acid, balance, character. Has it all. 92/100.

Est. 1469, one of the oldest estates of Sicily. About the fullest bodied grillo I've nosed. So was Montoni's catarratto. Here's the source for getting to the crux of these modestly aromatic Sicilian white grape varieties. 2021 acidity is an asset. Good body here; versatile at the table. Lasting if subtle aftertaste. 91+/100. The usually understated grillo varietal character became even more abundant and expressive as the hours passed. Even into the next day. Earned plenty of praise from attendees. Kudos to Montoni!

Wine Spectator 92: 'Lightly toasty on the nose, less so on the palate, with a pure beam of raspberry coulis fruit flavors layered with a minerally underpinning of smoke and graphite, plus rich notes of fig cake, wild sage, ground coffee and red licorice. A fresh, classy version, with lightly chalky tannins emerging to firm the finish. Nero d'Avola and Frappato. Drink now through 2027.'

That's sweet and full. Power and presence. 2021 cool fruit. Yeah, vintage race on the palate adds to its meal-worthy appeal. Best value in Etna rossos. 91/100.

Full, rich, and deep. Light coffee tone of nerello cappuccio. Mascalese cherry creme is subdued and well integrated. All in all, total Etna rosso. Yes, balanced and thorough. You could easily spend twice as much and get none better. Textbook. And there's much more to come. 93+/100.

Parker 92: 'The Cottanera 2019 Etna Rosso Diciassettesalme offers a lean and pure expression of Nerello Mascalese without too many extra bells or whistles. The wine finishes fermentation in oak and continues its evolution in large casks for eight months. There are dusty notes that frame cassis and sour cranberry. But both the fruity and the mineral sides of the wine are well-contained and measured. There isn't great complexity here, but Diciassettesalme offers a highly drinkable and accessible side to Etna. Drink now-2028.'

All nerello--80% mascalese, 20% cappuccino. Six months in barrels. Appropriate medium scarlet color. Mmm, that maraschino cherry smell of the main variety. Good warmth and power. Statuesque wine, in fact. Full candied cherry sweetness of 2015 and nerello. A modicum of tannin to balance that, as well as the power. The acid is bracing and mealworthy. Good length. Wine of place, grape, vintage. 92+/100. List price $25.

Wine Spectator 92: 'A silky red, with fine tannins seamlessly married to a lovely range of macerated cherry, baked fig, Earl Grey tea and tar notes. Long and bright on the palate, with a well-spiced finish. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2029. $33.'

Fresh, full, and well textured Etna bianco variety(ies). The amplitude satisfies. Even more flavor than aroma, without getting too wild and crazy. Extended finish. Perfect balance. About as good as it gets, short of the vineyard designates. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91: 'A perfumed white, with white blossoms and ripe fruit on the nose, this is salty and mouthwatering on the palate. Offers a touch of lemon zest enlivening flavors of Asian pear, blanched almond, chamomile and lemon oil. Drink now through 2027. $35.'

In the Sulcis area of southern Sardinia. A fresh, bright, transparent take on Sardinia's grenache, perfectly accurate and expressive. And in tune with the series. Just as flavorful and inviting to taste. Great acidity; juicy finish. Fine grained tannin for texture. 92/100. Generally enjoyed by attendees. Comments such as a charmer here, juicy, spicy, easy to swallow, good aromatics and structure, food please.

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'The nose begins bright and light, with aromnas of cranberry and hibiscus, then turns dark and richer with plums, tobacco and a swirl of chocolate and vanilla. Figs and a portent florality underscore the plum note on the palate.'

That''s a dark, hefty, and hearty cannonau. Grenache sweetness and succulence on the palate. Good and generous example for the money. 91/100.

Oh, this is fresh and cool, and it has that special cannonau take on grenache specific to Sardinia. Carries over to the palate. This is just singular in its genre, as previous vintages conveyed too. A classic, and its own special take. 92/100.

Est. 1950; three-generation family estate. New name for Pala's vermentino, and higher price. The light varietal perfume is evident. Racy in cool 2021. Apricot notions. Round stone fruit flavor and texture. Seems more ample than the I Fiori series of past vintages, so the higher price is justified. Wholly satisfactory. Even better after two hours' aeration. 'Rich, balanced, and long' reports one group member. Widely appreciated. 91+/100.

From the Alghero coast; 300 family cooperative. Fully charged varietal vigor. Bright, fresh, fragrant. Equally vigorous on the palate. Surpasses the good 2020 in flavor intensity and acid spiel. Bravo. 92/100. Attendees also found this intensely varietal and expressive. Orders taken.

From the Alghero coast; 300 family cooperative. A beautifully delicate varietal aroma, at least the equal of the popular 2021's. Equally precise and elegant on the palate. At opening, light fermentation aura under screwcap seeks resolution. Otherwise, well positioned for summer enjoyment. 91+/100. No ferment signs following aeration. Popular. 'Very aromatic'. 'Green apple, tropicals, florals'. 'Lots of flavor'.

Sardinia's only DOCG. Fresh and pungent. Seems like a cool climate take on vermentino. Yeah, bright and vigorous acidity. This rocks. Racy and round both. Food wine. 91/100.

Lemon creme scented. Right. Flavors equally accurate and more intense. Must stock and recommend because of the great price-quality ratio. Will probably become even more generous as the weeks pass. 91+/100. Tasted 9/22.

Wine Spectator 94: 'A rich, luxurious sweetie, with flavors of orange glacée, pink grapefruit sorbet, spun honey, apple peel and butterscotch melting on the palate like cotton candy. A bright tang of citrusy acidity and a touch of salinity give this good cut and form, while fragrant hints of lavender, cardamom, white chocolate and Earl Grey waft in on the long, lasting finish. Drink now through 2034. $50 half bottle.'

2019: Aged a year on French oak barrels. Always the hallmark xino roundness, sweetness here. Barrel tinged to boot. Sweet and sassy both. Great flavor, great balance. Delectable drink right now. 92/100.

Generations old winegrowers making their own wines since 2004; unwooded; unfiltered. Dark, deep, ripe, hearty, and full blown varietal character. No green fruit of young vines in this one. Terser on the palate. Dry and pretty tannic, though the tannins are fine grained. Sweet fruit pours through on the finish. The palate will benefit from a few more months' bottle age. 91+/100.

Wine & Spirits 93: 'This is George Skouras's flagship cuvee, a blend of his best agiorgitiko, which he structures with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. Open it now if you like fresh New World wines, as this has plenty of oak-driven richness and dense, sweet fruit. But if you leave it in the cellar for another decade, you'll get to enjoy more of the notes that are hiding underneath right now--the licorice, spice and earthy leather scents that give it brawn and savor, and the cool foresty notes that speak of the Peloponnese.'

St. George in English; indigenous to Greece, and today its most widely planted red variety. Medium red color. Dark, deep, and sweetly fruity st george. Seems denser, darker, deeper even than previous years. Savory. Like the 18 and 19, a come hither treat. While perhaps a tad more ageworthy than its predecessors. 91+/100.

2016: 12 months in barrels. Smooth, sweet, fruity example of St. George. Accurate and appealing. Bing cherry varietal character. Sweet fruit, plus light gaminess. Flows. Fills the bill. 91/100.

Vineyards at 2400'; volcanic soil. Pretty and precise saint george red fruit aroma set. Really comes on with aeration. Great acid verve here too. Projects the high altitude. Juicy and flavorful throughout. Versatile at the table. No tannin issues. Tangy aftertaste. 92/100. Aeration brought out a greater sense of barrel influence, including vanilla.

Lovely st. george black fruit freshness. Spot on!/ Yes, sweet and juicy. Attractive oak influence. Fine tannin. 92/100.

Macedonia; northwest facing at 670 meters; cold soak, skin contact vinification; two months on regularly stirred lees. Oh, there's that combo of body and perfume that makes this such a desirable variety in the right hands. Just keeps building with warmth and aeration. Big burst of varietal fruit-flower flavor melange. Body and texture appeal too. Deliciously open and well balanced at present. Ideal. 93/100. Attendees were impressed, relating it favorably to better known aromatic white grape varieties.

70-30. Highly perfumed. Positively floral. Dry and minerally. Threshold sweetness that's made more perceptible by mild acidity. Overall pleasurable and priced right. 90/100.

2020: Wine & Spirits 95: 'Stamatis Mylonas has been plumbing the possibilities of savatiano since he took over the family winery in 2006. This is his skin-contact version, from a high-altitude vineyard in Keratea, in southeastern Attika, where the hills climb high enough to catch some of the breeze off the Aegean. Keeping the grapes cool, he destems them and lets the juice ferment with ambient yeasts, leaving it on the skins for 15 days. It stays another six months on the lees, with frequent stirring, before he bottles it, unfined and unfiltered. Light gold, the wine is wildly herbal, with scents of crushed chamomile, thyme, tarragon and za'atar. All that spice surrounds a juicy center of apple flavor, a bit of skin tannins adding texture and the structure to help this last for days after opening. And it does all of this with an open-armed ease, welcoming in its nakedness.'

Pink skinned white variety grown at 2100'. Coy, musky aromatics spell this variety to a T. It's gathering a light orange peel aura of development that is flattering. Dry, with good acidity and minerality. The group found it spot on at this stage of development. 91/100.

Parker 90: 'The 2021 Moscofilero (in the Skouras transliteration) comes in with 4.5 grams of residual sugar, 6.4 of total acidity and 12.2% alcohol. This is sourced from vines at 650 meters in altitude. A kinder and gentler wine than the Salto in this report, this foregoes the acidic zing in favor of a rounder feel and easier balance between acidity and residual sugar. That makes this seem more full-bodied in perception, less silky and less tense. If at times that also makes this one a little simpler, less individualistic and less energetic, it is more likely to be the crowd-pleaser in style. I thought it was a bit too simple on opening. Trying it the next day brought out its structure, though, and made it far more lively and aromatic as well. Drink this now or in the next couple of years for best results and give the Salto another six to 12 months in the cellar. Both wines will make you happy in their own way.'

Est. 1974; oldest private winery of Nemea; all assyrtiko. Brisk and edgy. I can see why critics describe this variety's wines as Chablis like. Yeah, there's that chalky sort of thing. Dry and flavorful and offering good body. A valid interpretation that's bargain priced compared to the Santorini versions. 91/100. Aired well, becoming more aromatic. Enjoyed by attendees for minerality, weight, structure, lift, and, especially, price.

Cooperative est. 1947; ungrafted vines; 14 months on lees. Well, that has some SO2 issues at opening. Obviously full bodied all the same. Needs aeration. As usual, the palate shows less sulphur. Keen and clean varietal character comes forth. And always the ample body. Lots of mealtime apps thanks to the body. 91+/100. Sulphur blew off with aeration, and the group was impressed with the wine an hour and two later.

Light pine highlights. More pine to the taste. Nice. Nothing pitchy about the flavor or feel. Just well defined pine aroma and flavor on a relatively neutral white wine base. Less rustic than it was decades back. 90/100.

Wine & Spirits 90: 'Stamatis Mylonas builds texture into his Retsina with three months of frequent lees stirring after fermentation in stainless steel. The effect is fruity and full-bodied, with the piney notes playing backup to ripe apple scents. A good choice for lighter fish dishes.'

Well, this has a lot fresher base wine than the Crete Retsina, and more resinous personality too. Not so much pine pitch as bayleaf, bay rum. Less like evergreen than herbs. Well, maybe some fitzer; certainly not pine. So it's different, not classic. Expressive though. 89/100.

Sweet and plummy. Again, plum to prune, fig, date. On point. 91/100.

Lovely, sweet raisin nose with red muscat spicy aspects. Good strength, warmth, baked qualities, and good acid too. Palate echoes all. Sweet raisin, prune, plum, red muscat flavors. Acid and strength balance sweetness. 92/100.

Slovenia. 40% cab franc, 30% cab sauv, 30% merlot. This works. There's a pleasant softness to it that is a long reach from claret. The varieties are melded. Bright 'modern claret' like fruit richness and ripeness, while carrying plenty of bright acidity. Good value. Quel surprise! 92/100.

Est. 1239; one of the oldest wine cellars in Europe; aged on lees 6 months. This shows some SUS upon opening. Some fruit pushing through at present. Clear and beautiful flavor profile though. Ripe citrus and soft tropical fruit range. Intense and insistent sauvignon expression. Good and crisp fruit acidity. Long, balanced, giving aftertaste. Sauvignon blanc is surely a trouper, altitude, longitude, and latitude wise. 91/100. Very popular. Plenty here in terms of aromatics, edge, tension.

Woodstock era label. Will have to look up the varietal set. There's some pungent and aromatic stuff here, and I'm guessing there's more than one varietal contributor. Well, I'm wrong. It's all kerner, the most outlandlishly intense kerner I've nosed. Putting my head in a purple haze. Yeah, the same flavor spread. Good acid, and some padding too. Unique and lasting. Rock 'n roll 'til the cows come home. 92/100.

Furmint. Fresh, incisive in cool 2021, and very expressive of varietal character. Lemon aspects, both juice and peel. Flavorful. Great acid. Good varietal padding too. A champion representative begging for food. 92/100.

Good and rich red fruit. Smooth and inviting. Yes, sweet fruited, flavorful, versatile. Easy drinking. Putting it in a liter bottle was a good decision. 91/100.