From a singularly steep slope of grey slate; from the site's younger vines; 30.8 g/l RS, 7.8 g/l acidity. While last week's Grosse Lage Saarstein was mute at opening, this week's Qba, a year older, has a full display of upper Saar crispness and slate. I'm so glad last week's opened up. Now I get a glimpse of that superior wine (unfortuntately, now sold out). Mild sweetness and moderate acidity of the vintage. Mid term ager. The terroir statement makes the difference for me here. 91+/100. An impressed attendee comments: 'Delicious, balanced flavors.' 'Lovely riesling nose.' 'Super attractive and long.'

Newly invigorated Saar estate east of Konz with a cult following; 40-90 year old vines. 'The Spatlese trocken from Krettnacher Altenberg is usually the driest Riesling of the bunch—a wine for die-hard Falkenstein fans, who like their Saar Riesling 'herb', or pleasantly astringent. The Krettnacher and the other dry wines have salinity and an umami taste.' Yow, this is a grand finale (I taste the reds first). Fits its broker's notes. This is essence of riesling classicism that proclaims terroir over fragrance. Yes, just the heart of it all. I'm glad I selected this, from nearly a dozen allocated Falkenstein options, to buy and to show to the group. Mineral extract grip through the end. 96+/100. Attendees admired its distinctiveness, great acidity, and boundless potential.

Medium dry (3.2 RS); made by Nik Weis of St. Urbanshof.

Bruno of Cologne was founder of the Carthusian Order. I like this nose. Unique. It's verging on Ruwer delicacy, but I can tell there's some fuller Mosel riesling in the mix. And a nice degree of bouquet short of terpene resin. Yes, even fuller on the palate, to a positive degree. Because the Ruwer race and the acidity belie 2022 ripeness. It's legitimately dry, full textured, and well balanced for many meal time apps. 92/100. Attendees appreciated its Ruwer like lightness and acidity. At least one considered it highly age worthy.

2020: From several parcels in the Mosel and Ruwer valleys recently acquired by the Von Schubert family; 16 g/l RS. Rather lush and gentle for Von Schubert. Shows the additional Mosel contributions. Still, there's plenty of cut and minerality to it. And plenty of acid to balance the light RS. Ample green fruit Ruwer take on riesling. Even a suggestion of horseradish, all to the positive. Bargain priced. 92+/100.

Mainly from vines in Wehlener Klosterberg planted in the 1930s, the rest from Erden and Kinheim vineyards. Quite a bit of edel bouquet development. Saturated with old vines extract. Smells dry. Well, it does have some RS, but I still believe the service order is correct. Vintage acidity provides the foil. Bouquet still forming. I'd like to see this again after a few more years in the cellar. 92+/100.

2021: 11.5%; at Wincheringen, on the Upper Mosel. The wine's up to its story. Seckel pear and wet stone. Racy and seemingly gulpable. Add grapefruit and pith. More tenderness to the 21 than the 19, which is the opposite of what I would expect. Plenty good acid though, tart and zingy through the finish. Balanced. Quaffable indeed. So many options at the brunch-lunch-appetizer-main course tables. And the de rigueur modest alcohol. I think I'm going to have a second pour. 92/100.

2022: While I couldn't get a read on this when I tasted this right after opening,the wine's true character came out with aeration. Very popular with attendees, orders taken, and talk of WOTN. ' Very lovely nose and palate; very long. This should last a very long time.' 91+/100.

2018: Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Swathes of freshly cut herb and crushed slate extend from nose to palate in this exceptionally zippy, green-fruited wine. Off-dry and racy on the palate, it's a spine-tingling, lime-kissed sip that finishes with a tickle of effervescence. A joy to drink young but should hold well. $27.'

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Racy and almost searing in its intensity, thanks to the mouthwatering acidity that fuels the flavors of lemon, apple and orchard blossom honey. The finish completes the flavors spectrum with notes of baking spice. $35.'

2020: Wine Spectator 90/100 - TOP 100: 'An off-dry, succulent version, with great balance between notes of warm hay, spiced apple and savory dried green herbs. Hints of nutmeg and wet stone line the concentrated finish, powered by juicy, lemony acidity. Drink now through 2026.'

2022: Among the oldest, ungrafted vines in the Mosel; blauschiefer = blue slate. Very brisk, mineral saturated. Oh, boy, I'm getting the message at first sniff. Touch of tenderness and stone fruit flavor. Still this is more about terroir, old vines, and low yields. Throwback to great Mosel rieslings of yore..and I mean well before my time. 93+/100. Generally liked; WOTN for one. Many impressions: herbs, hay, apricot, gummy bears. Super oak-sensitive attendee thought he found it, though the wine is aged in very large, very old cooperage.

2021: Est. 1947; 40-60 year old vines; native yeasts. I like its overall cool, clear disposition. Seems less sweet than the Weis norm thanks to a cool vintage. Lovely, balanced mouthfeel. You're never going to get a trocken from Weis. 2021 acidity is pretty bracing though, and it extends the finish. Which is good. 91+/100.

By the owner of St. Urbanshof at Leiwen; from a village next to Leiwen in the Mittel Mosel. Accurate Mosel riesling nose. Agreeable, off dry Nik Weis style. Great acid; real riesling character, and should age well. Good value. 90+/100.

Vineyard defining peachiness. A firm peach, not a mushy one. Yellow apple too. Surprising structure for 2020. Well, softer on the palate, the acid still coated. That's Ok, this has the proper level of underlying acidity to see it through to a splendid state of maturity at age 5-7. 92+/100.

Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. Surprisingly dry and appley on the nose rather than PGR peachy. I like it. Just doesn't speak the terroir. Says high malic acid, which is a plus this ripe vintage. Kabinett sweetness and 2022 coated acidity. Flavorful enough if not terroir specific. Can't complain about the price. 90/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Very elegant nose and similar palate; great balance; kab level sweetness is a plus; nicely done.'

Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. The Kabinett was enjoyed by attendees 9/11. Much peachier than the kabinett. Much more expressive of PGR. Rightly spatlese sweet smelling, yet cool and teflon coated. Wow, really is spatlese sweet, and that's agreeable. Mosel cool and green fruited taste. Acid still coated. Again, not a bit sticky. Good potential. A bargain. 92+/100. Enjoyed by attendees, one judging it 'stellar'.

2022: Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. Yes, that PGR peach and superior sweetness and concentration of auslese. Especially CONCENTRATION. Thorough delivery, thorough VALUE. Flavorful. Acid still sugar coated; no problem. PGR auslese right! Fine potential. 92+/100. Liked even better than the PGR kabinett and spatlese tasted the two previous Weds. 'Unique flavor; not overly sweet; balanced; a really nice wine; bargain.' 'Light and airy Piesporter; sweet/acid balance there; will develop nicely.'

2019: Elite grosslage encompassing the best sites of Bernkastel, including Doctor. Light patina of age. Bernkastel green grape riesling ID. Good acid for vintage. Just subtly sweet thanks to age and locale. Nice balance and flavor length. 93+/100. Attendees considered this of fine quality. 'Quite lovely.' 'Great character and acid.'

2016: Shows the great extract of 2016. One of the best in the series. Yes, this has it all: sweetness, fruit, and flavor matched by acid, extract, grip, and full texture. 93+/100.

Vines up to 100 years old. Wow, is that Richter full bodied and fully extracted. The Sonnenuhr fruit and flower spectrum of aromas in fully intense form. Body, flavor, vineyard character, feinherb presentation of off dry level of sweetness, and very good acidity for the vintage. This is a wine I can count on year after year. 93+/100.

Parker 93: 'The 2020 Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett offers a bright yet intense and finely flinty, very delicate bouquet of bright fruits and crushed/weathered slate. Lush and round but vital and bright on the palate, this is a highly delicate and saline, well balanced and juicy picture-book Kabinett. Superb! Drink now-2055.'

2017: Wine Spectator 91: 'This features a multilayered texture, with mineral, fruit and floral notes and acidity all in harmony. Complex, but delivers pleasure. Long finish. Drink now through 2027.'

Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard. Sweet smelling and truly Wurzgarten 'spicy'. Sits right. High kabinett sweetness. Again, vigorous spicy notes work against the sweetness to assist in balance. Good acidity too. Age worthy, well composed. Well priced. 92+/100. White WOTN. 'Lovely, complex riesling. Very Urzig. Delish, with great balance.' 'Apricot, peach, lime, slate. Latent; should age nicely.'

Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard. That special, 'spicy' terroir take on riesling won't be denied. Sweet smelling spatlese nose. Indeed, like the kabinett tasted recently, fully up to the sweetness of its ripeness measure. Which coats the acidity some. Judged at opening, it's a waste to serve now. It will only accrue in quality over the coming months/years. Always has. Bargain prices to the Erbes hierarchy. 92+/100. Big time attendee favorite. 'Special as usual for this estate. Lovely, complex nose and palate with great balance.' 'Fine riesling here; a great wine!' 'Will likely hold for many years, if not decades, and be better for it.'

2018: Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard; Gold Kammerpreis - Rheinland-Pfalz. Light sulphur scratch. Spicy terroir statement of Wurzgarten gets through. A bright, lifted, and complex young Mosel auslese. More about vigor than sweetness. Sure the fruit is auslese ripe. Here, that leads more to concentration than richness. Yes, the acid is somewhat coated. Have no fear. This wine deserves its acclamations. Nothing but praise for this from attendees, who couldn't believe the great price. 92+/100.

Vineyards in Urzig and nearby Wittlich, home of the winery. Tall Bottle Award. Terroir pours through. This is one of the most explicit Wurzgarten aromas sets I've encountered in a long time. It's fully spatlese sweet but not sugar coated. 2021 acid makes its statement. When you look at the price in the scheme of things today, this is a bargain riesling cellar candidate. 93+/100. Well liked; impressions paralleled mine. 'Classy riesling!' 'Has complexity and potential. A lot in the bottle for the price.'

'Little steps' (treppchen) required to ascend this steep S-SW facing vineyard on blue and red slate. Lots of SUS at opening. DAMN IT!! Why can't winemakers adjust-!/ On the high side of kabinett, sweetness wise. That's standard with this source. Likely qualifies for spatlese. As usual, the sulphur is not as big a factor on the palate. But the acid and flavor are sugar coated. I expect this will improve with aeration. 90++/100.

The most consumed wine on flights of the Graf Zeppelin fleet of dirigibles. Nice to find no SUS. Dirk's a great winemaker. This is classic to the series for its relative delicacy and freshness. Dirk Richter seems to be drying this up some over the years, as the market finds that style more to its liking Fresh, even brisk. Vigorous nostril tingle . It's not dry on the palate but drier than it used to be. Flavorful. Maintains acid verve. Flavorful and balanced. 91/100. Attendees enjoyed this. 'A nice wine with good acid and riesling character.'

2021: Owned by the Diel family since 1802; at Dorsheim, lower Nahe; incorporates the produce of young vines from three Grosses Gewachs sites. Saturated with GG extract, age of vines aside. Wow, what a noseful from a textural aspect. Equally full bodied and textured on the palate. Terroir specific; not a fruity riesling. Yow. Little wonder critics make such a Big Deal about Diel. And look at the price compared to other wines from GG sites and style. 94+/100. Universally enjoyed. Wine of the Night for at least one attendee.

Predominantly from the Oberhauser Kieselberg and Felsenberg; volcanic soils of porphyry and melaphyr. Oh, that nutty-grainy-dried fruity Mittel Nahe riesling style exploited to the max by Donnhoff. Riesling is such a receptive and transparent conveyor of terroir. Sweetness still to the fore, for sure. Nonetheless, the acid stands out well. It's not too coated at this stage. And the extract, the terroir's specific minerality, contributes to the overall gestalt. Wow, just keeps growing in the glass! 93+/100. Enjoyed by attendees, surprised by its relative dryness.

'If we consider the holy trilogy of the Nahe (Donnhoff, Emrich-Schonleber and Schafer-Frohlich), Emrich-Schonleber for me rests somewhere in the center. They are neither as baroque and lavish as Dönnhoff, nor as fiercely angular as Schäfer-Fröhlich. There is a balance, a center to the best of their wines that is about as perfect and meditative as Riesling ever gets: texture and glycerin matched to a chiseled, yet glossy and ultra-fine architecture.' The dryness, crispness, and underlying terroir and exposure of 2024 Nahe riesling. Explodes on the palate the race expected of this cuvee. Oh my, for its harmony of feels and flavors, I'm just grasping and gasping for a mealtime setting. This is riesling as food wine. 92/100.

Est. 1708; estate bottling since 1984; from 15-25 year old vines in Munsterer Kapellenberg and Dautenpflanzer near the confluence with the Rhein. Some SUS nostril sting. I forgot to open this with the others half an hour earlier. Lower Nahe bulk evident. Well, a surprising degree of coolness and class for a riesling from this relatively heavy terroir. That's K-R. It maximizes riesling potential here. Not just a wine of place but one that supercedes its terroir. Mid trocken dryness; it's neither austere nor tender. Good acid of zone and year. 91/100.

2017: Lovely extract and acid etches the nostrils. The aroma set is classic Kreuznacher riesling. Deep and sweet. Big time success in 2017 for this cuvee. Full flavored. Forward and abundant. Balance of sweetness and acidity. Best vintage of this in memory. 93/100.

2016: Cool, even, brittle on the approach, with a ventilating flair. Deepens to Kreuznach riesling ripeness. Yes, terroir, etch, dignity. Sweet and also racy. The whole Kreuznach package. 92+/100.

Faint and pleasing fruit. A nice sense of crispness. Mild acidity. After all, it's not riesling. Modest flavor. Spatlese sweet. Agreeable. 89/100.

2018: Vintage and quality grade give this one more substance than the 2017 spatlese, as well as sweetness. Valid auslese concentration, sweetness. Honey on the palate--nice. Mild acid again. However, this one suggests more capacity for improvement as it ages. 90+/100.

James Suckling 94: 'A striking, barely off-dry Riesling with notes of bergamot, oranges, apple, peach, and minerality, showcasing excellent structure, delicate spritz, and a long, graceful finish from a blend of Rheingau sites.'

2018: Wine & Spirits 90; Wine Spectator 90: 'The 2018 Rheingau Riesling Trocken offers a shiny, bright and intense, wonderfully aromatic and coolish Rheingau Riesling nose with great precision and even flinty notes. Lush and fine, with good grip and great elegance, this is a remarkably fine and classic dry Rheingau Riesling in the reductive and linear Robert Weil style. Fabulous, really fabulous. Drink now-2027.'

Five generation estate with vineyards in the four best villages of western Rheingau. Surprising lack of SUS, which usually mars just opened Krayer bottles. Maybe they're learning to lighten up. Or maybe it will come out later, paradoxical yet occurring lately with some regularity. Spatlese sweet. Adequate acidity, somewhat coated. That peach-orange aspect of Rheingau riesling I appreciate. Will improve with mid term cellaring. One of most pleasing vintages of this wine in youth I''ve experienced since they went to screwcaps. 92+/100. Sulphur issues never emerged, and attendees were all in favor of this one.

Est. 1866; grosslage encompassing vineyards of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, and Winkel. Nose understated. Full kabinett sweetness. Coated acid. Will evolve nicely. 91+/100. Liked by attendees, who considered it in tune with the quality and style of a Rheingau grosslage riesling. And a good value as well.

Rheingau riesling peach and orange lurk behind a sulphur veil. And Auslese richness and concentration. Auslese fruit sweetness and intensity in nascent form. This has the skills to pay the bills, if you'll first loan it a few months in the cellar. 92++/100.

That's the edgy, extract laden Becker I've come to respect and enjoy. Oh, yeah, this is just saturated with dry extract, which well buffers the relatively mild acidity of the vintage. Primo all the way. 94+/100.

2020: Dainty, enticing, totally together, quaffable liter take on riesling. The scent grows with aeration. Well balanced. Not starkly trocken. Just the right riesling flavor intensity to keep it rangy at the table. Long, savory, delicious aftertaste. 92/100. This showed more terpenes after aeration, which turned off some attendees. Others enjoyed the 'petrol, cedar, spruce, evergreen' aromatics.

2021: Est. 1901 by 35 families; oldest wine cooperative in Franken. These often show sulphur under screwcap when young. This one seems to have moved past that stage. Yeah, a pleasingly dry Franken riesling nose is coming forth. In a cool year, this is showing a high trocken RS, probably to balance the vintage's high acidity, which it does with aplomb. Good vintage of this popular VC regular. Balanced and lasting. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees for its typicity, austerity, acidity, fruit flavors, and light petrol highlight. 'Should age well.'

11th generation estate founded in 1648. Appropriate medium red appearance. Mmm, that's sweet smelling of spiced cherries. The taste features sweet fruit too. Medium bodied, of course. Adequate acidity. No tannin, so could be served cool for greater refreshment. Good Thanksgiving choice. Better than the 2018, the previous vintage tasted. 91/100.

Splashy as well as sweet. Good effort with non riesling varieties. Yeah, there's a freshness to the acidity that is uncommon in this genre. Balanced, and good now or later. 93/100.

2018: More golden than the BA. This one's really thick. Less aromatic development even at two years older. Latent. Wow, that botrytis polleny grip. Acid almost fully coated. Will surely reward aging. 96+/100.

2nd generation winemaker Frank Heyden, known to group members who attended the Vinicombe tasting tours of yore, runs the estate with brother Harry. That is one old vines full scented silvaner. Great nasal presence while not of the fruity/floral sort given the variety. Earthy in the best sense. I've missed this wine. Yes, full in the mouth too. Good acid to the usually mild silvaner, so this is a solid vintage here. Trocken but not severely dry. Very, very versatile at the table. Great price. 91/100. This pleased attendees. 'Real character and very dry.' 'Nice, true varietal nose. Impressive weight and length.'

2021: On limestone and marl in Niersteiner Paterberg. A really full, stony, earthy take on silvaner. It's saturated with both soil takes. Exceptional terroir clarity though its varietal lens. The small 2021 crop makes for extra intensity of flavor and body. Mid to high trocken RS, so I'm glad I positioned it the last of the whites. Singular, really. A candidate for the holiday table. 92/100. Widely liked by attendees. 'Big, big, big, in both flavor and concentration; herbs and stones.'

2021: Decent Hugelland Hessia riesling perked up by the superiority acid of a cold vintage. Yes, unusually racy for its terroir. Surprising flavor quality and intensity. Peach and citrus. Deal, and versatile dinner wine. 90/100.

2021: Est. 1709 at Mettenheim; from vineyards Schlossberg and Goldberg. Though not from prime Rheinfront vineyards, this is no 'backwoods' Hessia riesling. It's bright and crisp--even more so than usual thanks to the vintage. Truly dry all right, lacing with 2021 acidity. The flavors run strong and deep. Great mealtime versatility. 91/100. Loved by all. One attendee's Wine of the Night. 'Lovely riesling nose and palate.' 'Dry; great acid and super long flavor.' 'Huge bargain.'

NYT: '.so bracing, so thirst-quenching, so, as the name suggests, electric, that it will be the most refreshing bottle on the table.'

Well, that's fresh and bright. Plenty of nasal vigor. Palate has bright acid and good riesling flavors--more like those of a Nahe. Good value. 91/100.

Est. 1806; steep vineyard on red earth, one of Nierstein's best sites. A rightful Rheinfront riesling in stature and breeding. Peach and tangelo nuances of the site's rieslings. Properly spatlese sweet. Coated acidity in youth. A sense it will balance out with more bottle age. Flavorful, lasting finish gives further confidence. 91+/100.

2020: Est. 1780; at Mommenheim, northwest of Nierstein; Spiegelberg is a grosslage on gentle terrain atop the steep Rheinfront escarpment. Pleasing and proper Spiegelberg riesling. Nose satisfies. Full spatlese sweetness. Some fruit and flowers form on the palate, which becomes more expressive than the nose. Moderate or coated 2020 acidity. I think this will age well mid term. 91+/100.

From the estate's parcels in Kreuz and Herrenberg, two of Oppenheim's top vineyards; 25 year old vines. Upon opening, I couldn't get a read on this due to sulphur dioxide presence. After aeration, no sulphur issues. Attendees loved it. WOTN for one. 'Really good. Great nose and nicely balanced palate. Really quality for now and the future at bargain price.' 'Dang, the balance, the acid underlying the sweetness. Killer buy.' 'Apricot, pine, fusel. Well extracted. Sugar coated for now, but the acid will seize the day eventually. A bargain and a kabinett to cellar.' 92+/100.

200 year history; from red slate soil of the Rothenberg and Engelsberg sites along the Rheinfront. Depth, dryness, and grape and terroir class come forth with warmth and air. A good bet, I'd say. Well textured, dry, and balanced. Give it mouth to mouth. 91+/100. Riesling peach and positive Hessia earthiness emerged. Widely liked by attendees. 'True riesling nose and palate.' Great value.' 'Party wine say all.'

Est. 1709. Cool climate pinot crispness without herbal aspects. Spot on Hessia pinot, really. Lithe and exceptionally pinot smooth. Zero tannins. Good sweet-acid balance. Reasonably flavorful. Very versatile at the table. 90/100.

Generations old family estate; inland from the Rhein between Worms and Nierstein; Gold Kammerpreis - Rheinland-Pfalz. Light SUS sting is 'trump-obliterated' by gewurz forcefulness. Geez, we haven't seen this since the 2017 vintage, and the 2021 is a super successor, with less sweetness and more acidity thanks to the cool year. Well, the spatlese sweetness takes command on the palate, coated the core acidity. No problem; it's there. Fully gewurz expressive, flavorful. A singularly delicious take that will improve for months if not years. 92+/100. Positive notes from attendees too: 'Unique nose! More grapefruit and lychee, less rose and perfumes. The palate doesn't follow the nose. It shows more traditional Gewurztraminer elements. I can taste the grape skins. There's good sweet/acid balance, along with an appropriate bitter finish.'

Originally produced from vineyards around the Liebfrauenkirche at Worms; minimum 70% riesling, muller thurgau, silvaner, and kerner; only two brands left in the MI market today (Blue Nun is no longer a Liebfraumilch).

2021: Fifth generation winegrowing brothers at Bockenheim in northern Pfalz; native yeasts. Wisp of sulphur upon opening, but it's not messing much with the green-fruit pinot blanc character of the nose. Lovely texture as well as green pear and apple character of the variety. Builds, lengthens, lingers. A delicious example that's a bargain in liter (under $17 the bottle equivalent). 92/100.

2021: Est. 1718; a founding member of VDP; native yeasts. Light SUS upon opening. It can't hide the exceptional purity and finesse of this bottling in the 2021 vintage. Seems more northern than Pfalz thanks to the cool vintage. Fairly high trocken buffers the 2021 acidity nicely. Flavorful, balanced. A really well crafted effort. Table ready. 92/100. Free of sulphur two hours later, it proved popular with attendees. 'Will meet many happy drinkers.'

Est. 1849; named after the first reichsrat (councilman), who had a hand in the opening of the Suez Canal; his wine was served at the ribbon cutting; 7.7 g//l acidity, 2.7 g/l RS; unfined. Pfalz riesling nuts and grains, relative power versus zones farther north. This is just plain swell!/ The acidity and RS are spot on for trocken, presenting a truly harmonious package. Always a good bet, this is one of the top vintages I've tasted. HUGE meal time range of possibilities. 92/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Very lovely riesling nose and palate. Super dry, flavorful, and long.' 'Pure riesling, very well balanced; dry but not austere.' 'One serious bottle. 'Great acid, great cut, very long saline finish.' 'Can surely cellar.'

2021: Well, that's a big step up in dry extract concentration following another Pfalz estate's riesling. Again, the grains aspect of Pfalz riesling. So much more serious. The quality gap widens on the palate. The intensity, the dryness, and the minerality. Superb balance for table-time versatility. Long finish. Price and quality compared, this is my Sunday riesling, the Wolf my weekday choice. A learning tete a tete. 93+/100. Attendees agreed, this was superior. 'Just wonderful.' 'More acid, more extract.' 'Should last a decade at least.' Wine of the Night candidate.

250 year old J. L. Wolf winery in Wachenheim acquired by Ernst Loosen in 1996. Lightly grainy Pfalz take on riesling. Good acid for 2022. Probably high trocken. Wide appeal and usefulness at the table. Fills the bill for the price. 91/100. This filled out with aeration, earning kudos from attendees. 'Lovely wine and dry, with real riesling character.' 'Crisp, fresh, friendly; solid finish.'

Est. 1780; estate bottling since 1989; vineyard on limestone and marl. Most previous vintages have shown some sulphur under screwcap at opening, and this is no exception. What's under, is Pfalz riesling's 'graininess' compared to rieslings from other sectors. Mid kabinett sweetness. Tawny peach and warm grain flavors. Acid still coated. Flavorful, harmonious aftertaste. A good bet riesling for a few months' cellaring at under $17 the bottle equivalent. 91+/100.

2017: Lithe, properly ripe pinot noir nose. Light, sweet cherry aroma. Sweet and gentle fruit expression. Flavorful. Mild acidity. A rightful Baden pinot noir. Serve cool. 91/100.

Native yeasts; 70% fermented and aged six months in large seasoned casks. 2% RS. Light yellow. A proper riesling of the region, where the aim is meal worthiness over aromatics. Yes, probably stronger than from regions farther north, which increases it food worthiness. Good acid and strength, which surely hide its RS. This talks Wurttemberg and is reasonably priced for its rieslings. 92/100.

Local estate and cooperative combine efforts to produce this cuvee from an amphitheater of terraced vineyards first planted over 1000 years ago. There are almost 25 miles of hand-built stone walls within its 15 acre expanse, some of them part of a nature preserve. Lemberger, trollinger, regent; schwarzriesling. A proper black fruit amalgam with ripeness indicative of vintage and region. Yes, now reflects its varietal range, which is coordinated and provides satisfying richness. Lots of meal time apps here. 91/100.

2020: From Burgenland, on eastern Austria's Pannonian plain, the country's oldest winegrowing region; native yeasts; no malo; aged in large cooperage. Suave, niccly mature. Plenty of varietal character at a nice stage of development. Yes. Round. Good flow. Flavorful. Good acidity. Melted tannins. Very satisfying value ready to be put to use. 91/100.

Dark red violet. The fullest blue franc on the block. Seems to enjoy some barrel savors as well. Still wears the champion's belt. Rich and savory varietal and barrel effects. Takes blue franc to the limits. 93+/100.

What a beautiful, dark red violet color!/ Fresh, sweet, invigorating and intense varietal aroma. Bravo. Dash of sandalwood. Sweet, round, peppery, flavorful, lasting. A good approach with zweigelt. High trocken. Good acid. 91/100.

2017: At Kamptal. This is what it should be. Cool, medium bodied, accurately varietal. Again, the blue fruits, the varietal and regional levity and race. Even a hint of leather. Works. 91/100.

Deep, rich blue and black fruits. Lots of fruit fulfillment and sense of body and richness. Earthy undertow. Forest floor: sur bois. Noble reduction. Melted tannins. Good acid. Put right to use. 92/100.

7-45 year old vines; aged a year in large cooperage; unfined. Impressively dark red violet color for zweigelt. Yeah, this is a serious, age worthy take. Well textured and balanced for current food service. More bouquet complexity on the horizon. 92+/100.

6 generation family winery in Burgenland; aged briefly in neutral Slavonian oak vats. As fresh, brisk, and green fruited as always. No brainer. Green apple and legume. Smells gulpable. Nice and soft acidity of gruve, especially for a cool year. Schoppenwein. Lots of varietal flavors. Liter bottle is the right choice. Quaffable indeed. 91/100. Attendees are warming up to gruners. Favorite of the still whites this evening. 'Quite lovely for a varietal I don't like. Good balance; acidity right on.' 'Lovely, rich varietal flavor.' 'Full apple nose with tonic elements, lime pith. Long finish.'

Est. 1898 near Langenlois. Boy, this has a lot of push and personality compared to the liter gruve norm. Makes for a good deal at $15 the bottle equivalent. Yeah, apples and legumes on the palate too. And good, quaffable liter flow. Pleasing juiciness. 91/100.

Fresh and crisp, crunchy green apple character. 2022's relative softness, so it's smooth flowing on the palate. Pleasing varietal intensity. Good value quaffer at well under $14 the bottle equivalent. 90/100.

2021: FULL aroma and flavor. Mega gruve personality. Yikes! And texture galore. What a satisfying set of gruner veltliners 2021 is supplying. 91/100.

From the domaine's scattered terraced parcels too small to be bottled under a single vineyard name; 'federspiel' is derived from falconry. That's nice. 2024 'dark' fruit. Like no other recent vintage. Good and compact core of potential. Swells up as it warms in the mouth. A superior form of gruner from the regional ones. In tune with the series and bound to improve over the coming weeks/months. 92+/100.Swelled up further as it warmed and aired, so popular with attendees. 'Very gruner.' 'Mineral and herbs throughout. Concentrated, intense palate.'

Marked by plenty of nasal etch. The extra oomph of a vineyard designate gruve. Upscale for sure. The palate confirms the textural extras and the site specific class. One of the best in the series. A real cut above regional--and even village--rivals. 93/100.

Both fruit pulp padding and fruit juice cut. Again. Full flavor, filling, acidity. Long, balanced, tasty. 91/100.

2022: Est. 1171; from vines under 20 years old in the best sites: Lamm, Grub, Renner. Sample still cold and not fully forthcoming. With aeration, classic apple and legume aromas forming. Seems to have the style and equilibrium inherent to the series. Nice 2022 forward fruit to it. Not as edgy as the 21. I like both, for different reasons. The acid builds nicely in back, so for flavor, texture, and balance, this goes to fulfillment. Yes. 92/100. Big time attendee favorite. 'Big nose, great nose. Just full of varietal flavor. Wonderful. Best gruve I've had.'

Cool, clear sweet pea nose. We're enjoying this with Le Sueur Very Young Small Sweet Peas, which are clearly sympathetic. Flavor confirms aroma. Flowing and easy. Well balanced. A liter bottle is the right packaging choice.! 90/100.

2021: Crisp and racy in 2021. Good green gruve stuff. Fully stuffed with varietal character. Good price. 91/100.

2021: Great apple-legume aromatic intensity. Great acid, juiciness, balance. Food wine. Quaffer. 91/100.

Loess over gravel on an ancient course of the Danube; vines planted 1960-1980. Oh, the intensity of aroma and nostril fill and feel! Always one of my favorite gruves. Strong minerality, superior terroir. Just so relentlessly penetrating!/ No letdown in intensity on the palate. This writes the book on Wagram gruner. Flavorful, full textured, balanced, lasting. Lots of meal time apps. 93/100. Widely enjoyed by attendees, who are not normally gruner fans but have liked this one in past vintages as well. 'Lots of really nice flavors; fruitier than the norm.''Minerals and white fruits.' 'Great appeal and great length.' 'This really delivers. 'My best gruve score in awhile.'

2020: Wine & Spirits 92 - BEST BUY: 'While this region east of Vienna is more known for red wines, Walter Glatzer pulled off an impressive gruner veltliner from the loess-rich soils of his organically farmed vineyards. It's silky, full and fresh, a hint of slatey minerality under the pineapple fruit. And the acidity remains vivacious for days after openiing.'

An assemblage from steep, terraced sites too small for single-vineyard designation. Whoa! Big time Wachau riesling aroma and nasal presence. Plus terroir. Even if I weren't afforded a chance to taste this, I'd be a happy camper after just nosing it for a spell. No letdown on the palate. Riesling, terroir, all. Flavor and texture in spades. And balance and length complete the picture. 93/100. Attendees were impressed. 'Very riesling and very good. Nice minerality.'

Est. 1171; mainly from Gaisberg and Heiligenstein; vines under 15 years old. Impressive presence in the nostrils, both aroma and texture wise. Yes, flavorful, balanced. Just so comfortable on the palate. The flavors build through the finish. 93/100.

Aka fendant; from Valais; 25 year old vines at 500-750 meters' elevation. Fresh, crisp, cool, high altitude. Chasselas green fruited and racy. Spot on. Lively, juicy fruit acidity. All about lift, refreshment, light mealtime pleasures. 92/100.

2018: Rightly sweet, especially this vintage. And enough acid to balance the sweetness. A treat for lovers of sweet red table wines. 91/100.

2014: Medium carmine. Lithe, sweet, fruity, fresh, ideal. Sweet and easy. 10.5%. Couldn't be more come hither. Just right, lithe, racy acid. Berry-cherry taste and aftertaste. Best version of this ever. 92/100.

2017: Wine Enthusiast 93; Tasting Panel 94: 'Scents of orange blossom; fresh and bright, with a creamy texture and crisp flavors of apricot and orange. Sweet but balanced, with just enough tangy acidity.'

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'Don't let the richness of all the poached peach, pear and apricot aromas fool you: bright, beautiful acidity underscores every sip this stunning, structured wine. Expect notes of honeysuckle and candied ginger among the heavenly stewed fruits on the palate, plus a long, elegant finish.'

2020: Now that the Russian market has dried up, Romania is focusing on Western Europe and American consumers, while re-styling its table wines to their liking. Spot on appley chardonnay character unencumbered by barrel complications. Clear as a bell varietal character. Good acidity and overall balance. At the table, one glass invites another. 90/100.