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GERMANY
GE-2207. 20 WILTINGER RIESLING ALTE REBEN, WEINGUT NIK WEIS ST. URBANSHOF 92+/100 *
Wine Spectator 92/100. My notes: Est. 1947; vineyard on red slate, planted in 1905. A zinger. Racy, snappy Saar riesling, yet with a degree of softness Weis imbues to all his wines. He does not abide trocken. This is all about 2020, Weis, terroir, and old vines fruit density. Great balance. Watch it go and grow. As it did over the coming hours. Very popular with the group. 92+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2208. 18 SCHARZHOF RIESLING, EGON MULLER (91/100)
Wine Spectator 91: 'This juicy, vivid Riesling offers a charming aroma up front, with an inviting bouquet. The palate features slate and lime flavors that pick up a peach note midpalate. Light yet intense, and almost harmonious. Give this a few more years. Long finish. Best from 2021 through 2030.'
How Many bottles/singles: $69.95 each
GE-2209. 18 SCHARZHOFBERGER GROSSE LAGE RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB, REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT 94/100
Von Kesselstatt owns over 20% of the vineyard. Well, that's statuesque. Grand Cru indeed. Feel the dry mineral extract in the nostrils! This has oomph! And beauty. And composure. Low key sweetness of feinherb. Deep mineral penetration. Moderate acidity--enough for decent balance. Quite the commanding riesling for the price. 94/100.
Dry and full Bockstein style. Lush fruit, Bockstein earthy basis. Really penetrates the nostrils. Oh, full of body, flavor, feel, richness. The consummate sweet-acid harmony. Yow. 93/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2211. 21 MOSEL RIESLING STEINBOCK, SELECTION DR. FISCHER
Medium dry (3.2 RS); made by Nik Weis of St. Urbanshof.
Whoa, so much spiel! It has a suggestion of Ruwer raciness in additional to the richer Mosel aspects. No prime terroir sophistication. Still, it's fair to call it slate born. Yes, vigorous acid race on the palate, especially for the vintage. Mealworthy, and certainly worth the tariff. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2213. 20 MOSEL RIESLING MAXIMIN MAXIMIN GRUNHAUS, VON SCHUBERT 92+/100
From several parcels in the Mosel and Ruwer valleys recently acquired by the Von Schubert family; 16 g/l RS. Rather lush and gentle for Von Schubert. Shows the additional Mosel contributions. Still, there's plenty of cut and minerality to it. And plenty of acid to balance the light RS. Ample green fruit Ruwer take on riesling. Even a suggestion of horseradish, all to the positive. Bargain priced. 92+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2214. 20 MOSEL ESTATE RIESLING OLD VINES, WEINGUT C. H. BERRES 92+/100
Mainly from vines in Wehlener Klosterberg planted in the 1930s, the rest from Erden and Kinheim vineyards. A little SUS sharpness upon opening. It lifts, and then the old vines riesling character pours forth. This is a sleeper Mosel source. Up front, the acid seems coated. It manages to express itself better as a sip crosses the tongue. Sure, tongue front get sweetness, sides acid. Well poised in youth. Bouquet to form after mid term cellaring. 92+/100. With aeration, this 'exploded'. 'REAL INTENSITY.' 'Very fine nose!' 'Serious.' 'Wine of the Night.'
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2215. 16 MOSEL ESTATE RIESLING DEVON, RICHARD BOCKING 91/100
At Trarbach. Good development and dryness. Good stage. Same. Even tempered. Nice acid ring. Dry. 91/100.
11.5%; at Wincheringen, on the Upper Mosel. The wine's up to its story. Seckel pear and wet stone. Racy and seemingly gulpable. Add grapefruit and pith. More tenderness to the 21 than the 19, which is the opposite of what I would expect. Plenty good acid though, tart and zingy through the finish. Balanced. Quaffable indeed. So many options at the brunch-lunch-appetizer-main course tables. And the de rigueur modest alcohol. I think I'm going to have a second pour. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $16.99 each
GE-2217. 22 MOSEL RIESLING ON SLATE THOMAS LOSEN, WEINGUT LOSEN-BOCKSTANZ 91+/100 *
While I couldn't get a read on this when I tasted this right after opening,the wine's true character came out with aeration. Very popular with attendees, orders taken, and talk of WOTN. ' Very lovely nose and palate; very long. This should last a very long time.' 91+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2218. 20 MOSEL RIESLING MONCHHOF, ROBERT EYMAEL (91/100)
2018: Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Swathes of freshly cut herb and crushed slate extend from nose to palate in this exceptionally zippy, green-fruited wine. Off-dry and racy on the palate, it's a spine-tingling, lime-kissed sip that finishes with a tickle of effervescence. A joy to drink young but should hold well through 2024. $27.'
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2219. 21 MOSEL RIESLING SPATLESE SLATE MONCHHOF, ROBERT EYMAEL (91/100)
Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Racy and almost searing in its intensity, thanks to the mouthwatering acidity that fuels the flavors of lemon, apple and orchard blossom honey. The finish completes the flavors spectrum with notes of baking spice. $35.'
Wine Spectator 90/100 - TOP 100: 'An off-dry, succulent version, with great balance between notes of warm hay, spiced apple and savory dried green herbs. Hints of nutmeg and wet stone line the concentrated finish, powered by juicy, lemony acidity. Drink now through 2026.'
Among the oldest, ungrafted vines in the Mosel; blauschiefer = blue slate. Very brisk, mineral saturated. Oh, boy, I'm getting the message at first sniff. Touch of tenderness and stone fruit flavor. Still this is more about terroir, old vines, and low yields. Throwback to great Mosel rieslings of yore..and I mean well before my time. 93+/100. Generally liked; WOTN for one. Many impressions: herbs, hay, apricot, gummy bears. Super oak-sensitive attendee thought he found it, though the wine is aged in very large, very old cooperage.
How Many bottles/singles: $25.99 each
GE-2222. 21 MOSEL ESTATE RIESLING OLD VINES, NIK WEIS - ST. URBANS-HOF 91+/100
Est. 1947; 40-60 year old vines; native yeasts. I like its overall cool, clear disposition. Seems less sweet than the Weis norm thanks to a cool vintage. Lovely, balanced mouthfeel. You're never going to get a trocken from Weis. 2021 acidity is pretty bracing though, and it extends the finish. Which is good. 91+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2223. 20 MOSEL RIESLING KABINETT SINGLE POST, NIK WEIS 90+/100
By the owner of St. Urbanshof at Leiwen; from a village next to Leiwen in the Mittel Mosel. Accurate Mosel riesling nose. Agreeable, off dry Nik Weis style. Great acid; real riesling character, and should age well. Good value. 90+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2224. 19 MOSEL RIESLING FEINHERB, DR. H. THANISCH (90/100)
Wine Enthusiast 90: 'Staccato notes of caramelized honey and lime zest abound in this spine-tingling white. Just a hint off-dry in style, it's a zippy, electric shock of steel and acidity softened by flavors of pristine lemon, white grapefruit and green apple. A lovely sip to enjoy young. $17.'
Vineyard defining peachiness. A firm peach, not a mushy one. Yellow apple too. Surprising structure for 2020. Well, softer on the palate, the acid still coated. That's Ok, this has the proper level of underlying acidity to see it through to a splendid state of maturity at age 5-7. 92+/100.
Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. Surprisingly dry and appley on the nose rather than PGR peachy. I like it. Just doesn't speak the terroir. Says high malic acid, which is a plus this ripe vintage. Kabinett sweetness and 2022 coated acidity. Flavorful enough if not terroir specific. Can't complain about the price. 90/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Very elegant nose and similar palate; great balance; kab level sweetness is a plus; nicely done.'
Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. The Kabinett was enjoyed by attendees 9/11. Much peachier than the kabinett. Much more expressive of PGR. Rightly spatlese sweet smelling, yet cool and teflon coated. Wow, really is spatlese sweet, and that's agreeable. Mosel cool and green fruited taste. Acid still coated. Again, not a bit sticky. Good potential. A bargain. 92+/100. Enjoyed by attendees, one judging it 'stellar'.
Mosel vineyard, Nahe cellar, Swiss owner. Yes, that PGR peach and superior sweetness and concentration of auslese. Especially CONCENTRATION. Thorough delivery, thorough VALUE. Flavorful. Acid still sugar coated; no problem. PGR auslese right! Fine potential. 92+/100. Liked even better than the PGR kabinett and spatlese tasted the two previous Weds. 'Unique flavor; not overly sweet; balanced; a really nice wine; bargain.' 'Light and airy Piesporter; sweet/acid balance there; will develop nicely.'
Elite grosslage encompassing the best sites of Bernkastel, including Doctor. Light patina of age. Bernkastel green grape riesling ID. Good acid for vintage. Just subtly sweet thanks to age and locale. Nice balance and flavor length. 93+/100. Attendees considered this of fine quality. 'Quite lovely.' 'Great character and acid.'
How Many bottles/singles: $29.99 each
GE-2230. 20 BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB, WWE DR. THANISCH 92/100
Erben Thanisch. Nose carries village, vineyard, vintage, and age characteristics. Perfect pitch, really. On the high side of sweetness for feinherb, balanced by the style's good acidity--exceptionally good for the vintage. Classic green-grape Bernkastel flavor. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2231. 20 BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT, DR. THANISCH (93/100)
Wine Spectator 93 - TOP 100: 'Brilliant aromas of jasmine, peach, lime and slate mark this exuberant Riesling. Charming, harmonious and vibrant, with a long aftertaste echoing the fruit, floral and mineral notes. Drink now through 2028.'
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2232. 15 MOSEL RIESLING SPATLESE TROCKEN, DR. H. THANISCH
2016: Shows the great extract of 2016. One of the best in the series. Yes, this has it all: sweetness, fruit, and flavor matched by acid, extract, grip, and full texture. 93+/100.
Parker 93: 'Predominantly from a 90-year-old plot and another that was re-planted in 1984, the 2014 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese Feinherb Alte Reben is made from berries that were as big as peas and colored like copper. Intense and concentrated, yet also with very fine fruit and pip fruit aromas on the nose, this 11% bottling is round and silky textured on the palate, nicely concentrated and almost creamy; it is very mineral and long, and finishes with great finesse and stimulating salinity. This is a great and tension-filled Riesling of great elegance, finesse and intensity. A beauty and one of my favorites of the 2014 vintage. Drink now-2034.'
How Many bottles/singles: $25.99 each
GE-2235. 22 WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB, MAX FERDINAND RICHTER 93+/100
Vines up to 100 years old. Wow, is that Richter full bodied and fully extracted. The Sonnenuhr fruit and flower spectrum of aromas in fully intense form. Body, flavor, vineyard character, feinherb presentation of off dry level of sweetness, and very good acidity for the vintage. This is a wine I can count on year after year. 93+/100.
Parker 93: 'The 2020 Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett offers a bright yet intense and finely flinty, very delicate bouquet of bright fruits and crushed/weathered slate. Lush and round but vital and bright on the palate, this is a highly delicate and saline, well balanced and juicy picture-book Kabinett. Superb! Drink now-2055.'
Wine Spectator 91: 'This features a multilayered texture, with mineral, fruit and floral notes and acidity all in harmony. Complex, but delivers pleasure. Long finish. Drink now through 2027.'
How Many bottles/singles: $26.99 each
GE-2238. 21 URZIGER WURZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT, WEINGUT KARL ERBES 91+/100
Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard. The nose is on the backward side at opening. Full kabinett sweetness. Nascent flavors expressive of the site if not outwardly 'spicy' yet. 2021 acidity somewhat coated by the RS, but not to the extent of 'baby fat'. Thus, balanced and promising. 91+/100. The acidity later came on stronger; judged 'brisk'. Attendees loved the bargain price. Orders taken.
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2239. 20 URZIGER WURZGARTEN RIESLING SPATLESE, WEINGUT KARL ERBES 91+/100
Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard. Fuller, slightly more open and advanced. Plenty in reserve here too; even more, in fact. Spatlese sweeter if not that much more than the kabinett. Good acid here too, even in a riper vintage. Each is properly proportioned for steady bouquet development. I like the poise. 91+/100. Both Erbes wines were widely enjoyed and considered great values. Orders taken.
Est. 1967; 70-80 year old ungrafted vines; 70% steep, south-facing vineyard; Gold Kammerpreis - Rheinland-Pfalz. Light sulphur scratch. Spicy terroir statement of Wurzgarten gets through. A bright, lifted, and complex young Mosel auslese. More about vigor than sweetness. Sure the fruit is auslese ripe. Here, that leads more to concentration than richness. Yes, the acid is somewhat coated. Have no fear. This wine deserves its acclamations. Nothing but praise for this from attendees, who couldn't believe the great price. 92+/100.
Vineyards in Urzig and nearby Wittlich, home of the winery. Tall Bottle Award. Terroir pours through. This is one of the most explicit Wurzgarten aromas sets I've encountered in a long time. It's fully spatlese sweet but not sugar coated. 2021 acid makes its statement. When you look at the price in the scheme of things today, this is a bargain riesling cellar candidate. 93+/100. Well liked; impressions paralleled mine. 'Classy riesling!' 'Has complexity and potential. A lot in the bottle for the price.'
'Little steps' (treppchen) required to ascend this steep S-SW facing vineyard on blue and red slate. Lots of SUS at opening. DAMN IT!! Why can't winemakers adjust-!/ On the high side of kabinett, sweetness wise. That's standard with this source. Likely qualifies for spatlese. As usual, the sulphur is not as big a factor on the palate. But the acid and flavor are sugar coated. I expect this will improve with aeration. 90++/100.
Tall Bottle Award. Light dusting of SO2, but not near the sulphur issues of the kabinett. The site's slate statements evident. Actually comes across less sweet than the kabinett. Still, acid and flavor are sugar coated to an extent here too. These used to be more revealing sooner. Generation change? Let's see what aeration does. 91+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $27.99 each
GE-2244. 23 MULHEIMER SONNENLAY RIESLING ZEPPELIN, MAX FERD. RICHTER 91+/100
The most consumed wine on flights of the Graf Zeppelin fleet of dirigibles. Nice to find no SUS. Dirk's a great winemaker. This is classic to the series for its relative delicacy and freshness. Dirk Richter seems to be drying this up some over the years, as the market finds that style more to its liking. It's not dry on the palate but drier than it used to be. Flavorful. Decent acidity. More flavor development to come. 91+/100. Attendees enjoyed this. 'A nice wine with good acid and riesling character.'
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2245. 21 NAHE RIESLING TROCKEN NAHESTEINER, SCHLOSSGUT DIEL 94+/100
Owned by the Diel family since 1802; at Dorsheim, lower Nahe; incorporates the produce of young vines from three Grosses Gewachs sites. Saturated with GG extract, age of vines aside. Wow, what a noseful from a textural aspect. Equally full bodied and textured on the palate. Terroir specific; not a fruity riesling. Yow. Little wonder critics make such a Big Deal about Diel. And look at the price compared to other wines from GG sites and style. 94+/100. Universally enjoyed. Wine of the Night for at least one attendee.
How Many bottles/singles: $22.99 each
GE-2246. 23 NAHE ESTATE RIESLING, DONNHOFF 93+/100 *
Predominantly from the Oberhauser Kieselberg and Felsenberg; volcanic soils of porphyry and melaphyr. Oh, that nutty-grainy-dried fruity Mittel Nahe riesling style exploited to the max by Donnhoff. Riesling is such a receptive and transparent conveyor of terroir. Sweetness still to the fore, for sure. Nonetheless, the acid stands out well. It's not too coated at this stage. And the extract, the terroir's specific minerality, contributes to the overall gestalt. Wow, just keeps growing in the glass! 93+/100. Enjoyed by attendees, surprised by its relative dryness.
How Many bottles/singles: $28.99 each
GE-2247. 22 NAHE RIESLING TROCKEN, WEINGUT EMRICH-SCHONLEBER 92+/100
2021: Sleek upper Nahe styling so, yeah, it's not going to be as 'lavish' as Donnhoff. Filigree riesling presentation; a wine of place and producer. Unusual pineapple aspect on the palate. Great acid, so a wine of vintage too. Totally confident and coordinated. Will retain its fresh demeanor for years. 92+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $27.99 each
GE-2248. 22 NAHE RIESLING TROCKEN, WEINGUT KRUGER-RUMPF 91/100
Est. 1708; estate bottling since 1984; from 15-25 year old vines in Munsterer Kapellenberg and Dautenpflanzer near the confluence with the Rhein. Some SUS nostril sting. I forgot to open this with the others half an hour earlier. Lower Nahe bulk evident. Well, a surprising degree of coolness and class for a riesling from this relatively heavy terroir. That's K-R. It maximizes riesling potential here. Not just a wine of place but one that supercedes its terroir. Mid trocken dryness; it's neither austere nor tender. Good acid of zone and year. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $22.99 each
GE-2249. 21 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, ST. ANTONIUS 93/100
2017: Lovely extract and acid etches the nostrils. The aroma set is classic Kreuznacher riesling. Deep and sweet. Big time success in 2017 for this cuvee. Full flavored. Forward and abundant. Balance of sweetness and acidity. Best vintage of this in memory. 93/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $10.99 each
GE-2250. 22 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE, ST. ANTONIUS 92+/100
2016: Cool, even, brittle on the approach, with a ventilating flair. Deepens to Kreuznach riesling ripeness. Yes, terroir, etch, dignity. Sweet and also racy. The whole Kreuznach package. 92+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $11.99 each
GE-2251. 17 BURG LAYER SCHLOSSKAPELLE SPATLESE, ST. ANTONIUS 89/100
Faint and pleasing fruit. A nice sense of crispness. Mild acidity. After all, it's not riesling. Modest flavor. Spatlese sweet. Agreeable. 89/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $9.99 each
GE-2252. 20 BURG LAYER SCHLOSSKAPELLE AUSLESE, ST. ANTONIUS 90+/100
2018: Vintage and quality grade give this one more substance than the 2017 spatlese, as well as sweetness. Valid auslese concentration, sweetness. Honey on the palate--nice. Mild acid again. However, this one suggests more capacity for improvement as it ages. 90+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $11.99 each
GE-2253. 20 RHEINGAU RIESLING, WINZ. ERBACH liter
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2254. 21 RHEINGAU RIESLING R, WEINGUT AUGUST KESSELER 91+/100
At Assmannshausen; est 1924; average vine age 25 years; from estate vineyards in the leading townships of Rheingau. Crisp, neat, lightly tangerine scented. Sussreserve still coating the brisk 2021 acidity to a degree. It emerges in the finish. Well constructed wine that will become fulfilled by summer. 91+/100. Attendees enjoyed this for both now and later. The acidity appears to have emerged more after aeration.
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2255. 18 RHEINGAU RIESLING TRADITION, ROBERT WEIL (90/100)
Wine & Spirits 90; Wine Spectator 90: 'The 2018 Rheingau Riesling Trocken offers a shiny, bright and intense, wonderfully aromatic and coolish Rheingau Riesling nose with great precision and even flinty notes. Lush and fine, with good grip and great elegance, this is a remarkably fine and classic dry Rheingau Riesling in the reductive and linear Robert Weil style. Fabulous, really fabulous. Drink now-2027.'
Rheingau riesling apparent through a light sulphur veil. Aeration wisps the sulphur away and brings out fill varietal character. Yes, this is crisp and lifting, and terroir specific. Great acid and length. 91+/100.
Five generation estate with vineyards in the four best villages of western Rheingau. Surprising lack of SUS, which usually mars just opened Krayer bottles. Maybe they're learning to lighten up. Or maybe it will come out later, paradoxical yet occurring lately with some regularity. Spatlese sweet. Adequate acidity, somewhat coated. That peach-orange aspect of Rheingau riesling I appreciate. Will improve with mid term cellaring. One of most pleasing vintages of this wine in youth I''ve experienced since they went to screwcaps. 92+/100. Sulphur issues never emerged, and attendees were all in favor of this one.
Goldene Preizmunze - Land Hessen. Medium sweet and intense. Vintage? Youth? I'm looking for more, but maybe it's a stage. After all, it earned a gold medal. Well, more acid zing, more concentration of honey and flowers flavors than the nose suggested. Balanced and lusty and well posed after all. 94+/100.
Est. 1866; grosslage encompassing vineyards of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, and Winkel. Nose understated. Full kabinett sweetness. Coated acid. Will evolve nicely. 91+/100. Liked by attendees, who considered it in tune with the quality and style of a Rheingau grosslage riesling. And a good value as well.
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2260. 20 JOHANNISBERGER KLAUS RIESLING AUSLESE, KRAYER 2++/100
Rheingau riesling peach and orange lurk behind a sulphur veil. And Auslese richness and concentration. Auslese fruit sweetness and intensity in nascent form. This has the skills to pay the bills, if you'll first loan it a few months in the cellar. 92++/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2261. 20 WALLUFER RIESLING TROCKEN, WEINGUT J. J. BECKER liter 92/100 *
Dainty, enticing, totally together, quaffable liter take on riesling. The scent grows with aeration. Well balanced. Not starkly trocken. Just the right riesling flavor intensity to keep it rangy at the table. Long, savory, delicious aftertaste. 92/100. This showed more terpenes after aeration, which turned off some attendees. Others enjoyed the 'petrol, cedar, spruce, evergreen' aromatics.
How Many bottles/singles: $27.99 each
GE-2262. 21 WALLUFER WALKENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE TROCKEN J. B. BECKER, WEINGUT J. J. BECKER 96/100
Est. 1893. These wines taste like NOTHING else coming out of the Rheingau and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn't give a ****. A noseful. Wow, the vintage and maker craft the ultimate in riesling dryness, extract, understated versus gushy fruitiness. A monumental stance. Oh, yeah, the palate takes all this to eleven. Large, dry, full, even statuesque. If there were ever a contemporary riesling to recall the Rheingaus of yore--of the late 19th century, when they commanded the same price as Bordeaux Premier Crus---this is it. 96/100.
2015: Gold Medal - Franken. Young and fresh and brisk. Stimulating. Classic Franken stoniness. Perfect. Roundness and richness of the vintage. Full and generous. Wow! 93/100.
Gold Medal - Franken; est. 1591. Lightly nutty tone of pinot gris. Grows larger and broader with aeration. Rich is both flavor and texture. A good Franken take on the variety. Full and long aftertaste. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2265. 15 ECHERNDORFER LUMP RIESLING STEILLAGE S SPATLESE, BRENNFLECK
2019: Though there's still a vestige of SUS (sulphur under screwcap), this is a much more expressive take than the bottle the tasting panel experienced hours after opening. Silvaner is a sulphur sponge. Body, nut, earth. Even more lucid on the palate. Softly trocken. Varietally explicit. Bravo. 91+/100.
Est. 1901 by 35 families; oldest wine cooperative in Franken. These often show sulphur under screwcap when young. This one seems to have moved past that stage. Yeah, a pleasingly dry Franken riesling nose is coming forth. In a cool year, this is showing a high trocken RS, probably to balance the vintage's high acidity, which it does with aplomb. Good vintage of this popular VC regular. Balanced and lasting. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees for its typicity, austerity, acidity, fruit flavors, and light petrol highlight. 'Should age well.'
Splashy as well as sweet. Good effort with non riesling varieties. Yeah, there's a freshness to the acidity that is uncommon in this genre. Balanced, and good now or later. 93/100.
More golden than the BA. This one's really thick. Less aromatic development even at two years older. Latent. Wow, that botrytis polleny grip. Acid almost fully coated. Will surely reward aging. 96+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $47.99 each
GE-2271. 21 RHEINHESSEN SILVANER OLD VINES TROCKEN, WEINGUT DR. HEYDEN 91/100 *
2nd generation winemaker Frank Heyden, known to group members who attended the Vinicombe tasting tours of yore, runs the estate with brother Harry. That is one old vines full scented silvaner. Great nasal presence while not of the fruity/floral sort given the variety. Earthy in the best sense. I've missed this wine. Yes, full in the mouth too. 2021 gives good acid to the usually mild silvaner, so this is a star vintage here. Trocken but not severely dry. Very, very versatile at the table. Great price. 91/100. This pleased attendees. 'Real character and very dry.' 'Nice, true varietal nose. Impressive weight and length.'
How Many bottles/singles: $12.99 each
GE-2272. 20 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING CAT BOTTLE RED half liter
How Many bottles/singles: $15.99 each
GE-2273. 20 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING CAT BOTTLE BLACK half liter
How Many bottles/singles: $15.99 each
GE-2274. 20 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING CAT BOTTLE BLUE half liter
Decent Hugelland Hessia riesling perked up by the superiority acid of a cold vintage. Yes, unusually racy for its terroir. Surprising flavor quality and intensity. Peach and citrus. Deal, and versatile dinner wine. 90/100.
Est. 1709 at Mettenheim; from vineyards Schlossberg and Goldberg. Though not from prime Rheinfront vineyards, this is no 'backwoods' Hessia riesling. It's bright and crisp--even more so than usual thanks to the vintage. Truly dry all right, lacing with 2021 acidity. The flavors run strong and deep. Great mealtime versatility. 91/100. Loved by all. One attendee's Wine of the Night. 'Lovely riesling nose and palate.' 'Dry; great acid and super long flavor.' 'Huge bargain.'
How Many bottles/singles: $14.99 each
GE-2281. 20 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING, TRULLO 91/100
Well, that's fresh and bright. Plenty of nasal vigor. Palate has bright acid and good riesling flavors--more like those of a Nahe. Good value. 91/100.
GE-2283. 18 NIERSTEINER HIPPING RIESLING SPATLESE, GEORG ALBRECHT SCHNEIDER 91+/100
Est. 1806; steep vineyard on red earth, one of Nierstein's best sites. A rightful Rheinfront riesling in stature and breeding. Peach and tangelo nuances of the site's rieslings. Properly spatlese sweet. Coated acidity in youth. A sense it will balance out with more bottle age. Flavorful, lasting finish gives further confidence. 91+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2284. 20 NIERSTEINER SPIEGELBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, FRITZ WINDISCH 91+/100
Est. 1780; at Mommenheim, northwest of Nierstein; Spiegelberg is a grosslage on gentle terrain atop the steep Rheinfront escarpment. Pleasing and proper Spiegelberg riesling. Nose satisfies. Full spatlese sweetness. Some fruit and flowers form on the palate, which becomes more expressive than the nose. Moderate or coated 2020 acidity. I think this will age well mid term. 91+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $16.99 each
GE-2285. 22 OPPENHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT, WEINGUT DR. HEYDEN 92+/100
From the estate's parcels in Kreuz and Herrenberg, two of Oppenheim's top vineyards; 25 year old vines. Upon opening, I couldn't get a read on this due to sulphur dioxide presence. After aeration, no sulphur issues. Attendees loved it. WOTN for one. 'Really good. Great nose and nicely balanced palate. Really quality for now and the future at bargain price.' 'Dang, the balance, the acid underlying the sweetness. Killer buy.' 'Apricot, pine, fusel. Well extracted. Sugar coated for now, but the acid will seize the day eventually. A bargain and a kabinett to cellar.' 92+/100.
200 year history; from red slate soil of the Rothenberg and Engelsberg sites along the Rheinfront. Another dry and mealworthy Rheinhessen, this time a riesling. Yes, aromatically understated, well textured, and ready for the table. 91/100. Opened more after aeration and earned favorable attendee comments: 'Lime citrus', nice concentration', 'good sweet-acid balance', 'a lot of wine and class for the money.'
A cool, slightly tart take on pinot. Light footed and rangy at the table. Palate confirms the sweet-tart pinot cool climate approach. Balanced and lengthy. 90/100.
Generations old family estate; inland from the Rhein between Worms and Nierstein; Gold Medal - Pfalz. The aromatic intensity of gewurztraminer. Really quite an abundant varietal set of rosewater and glycerin playing against ginger nip. Spatlese sweetness. Good acid for the variety. Expanded further with aeration. Popular with the group. Orders taken. 91/100.
Fifth generation winegrowing brothers at Bockenheim in northern Pfalz; native yeasts. Wisp of sulphur upon opening, but it's not messing much with the green-fruit pinot blanc character of the nose. Lovely texture as well as green pear and apple character of the variety. Builds, lengthens, lingers. A delicious example that's a bargain in liter ($14 bottle equivalent). 92/100.
Est. 1718; a founding member of VDP; native yeasts. Light SUS upon opening. It can't hide the exceptional purity and finesse of this bottling in the 2021 vintage. Seems more northern than Pfalz thanks to the cool vintage. Fairly high trocken buffers the 2021 acidity nicely. Flavorful, balanced. A really well crafted effort. Table ready. 92/100. Free of sulphur two hours later, it proved popular with attendees. 'Will meet many happy drinkers.'
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2291. 21 PFALZ RIESLING TROCKEN, DR. BURKLIN-WOLF 92+/100
Est. 1597; from Wachenheim, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Some terpenes even early on, as noted in past vintages, not to the detriment. Nostril swelling. Oh, and that acid and extract of cuvee and vintage. Totally textural. Not austerely dry. Flavorful. This will go and grow. 92+/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2292. 20 PFALZ RIESLING TROCKEN, DR. BURKLIN-WOLF 92/100
Est. 1597; from Wachenheim, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg vineyards. While there are suggestions of SO2 and terpenes bracketing the core riesling character, they cannot conquer its Bakhmut fortitude. It's Pfalz riesling too, full of dried fruits and grains, even nuts. Trail mix, sweet-meal. Yes, 'power' at 12%, body, structure, texture, dryness. Lasting finish. Though customers stuck with the 2018 over the multi years it was on the market, I found the terpenes growing a little strong, and I welcome this 2020 successor. 92/100.
Est. 1780; estate bottling since 1989; vineyard on limestone and marl. Most previous vintages have shown some sulphur under screwcap at opening, and this is no exception. What's under, is Pfalz riesling's 'graininess' compared to rieslings from other sectors. Mid kabinett sweetness. Tawny peach and warm grain flavors. Acid still coated. Flavorful, harmonious aftertaste. A good bet riesling for a few months' cellaring at $15 the bottle equivalent. 91+/100.
Local estate and cooperative combine efforts to produce this cuvee from an amphitheater of terraced vineyards first planted over 1000 years ago. There are almost 25 miles of hand-built stone walls within its 15 acre expanse, some of them part of a nature preserve. Lemberger, trollinger, regent; schwarzriesling. A proper black fruit amalgam with ripeness indicative of vintage and region. Yes, now reflects its varietal range, which is coordinated and provides satisfying richness. Lots of meal time apps here. 91/100.
From Burgenland, on eastern Austria's Pannonian plain, the country's oldest winegrowing region; native yeasts; no malo; aged in large cooperage. Suave, niccly mature. Plenty of varietal character at a nice stage of development. Yes. Round. Good flow. Flavorful. Good acidity. Melted tannins. Very satisfying value ready to be put to use. 91/100.
Well, this is in a different world compared to the norm, fuller, deeper, more significant. Perhaps some barrel influence. Rich, mouthfilling, flavorful, finely tannic. Ambitious; ageworthy. 92+/100.
What a beautiful, dark red violet color!/ Fresh, sweet, invigorating and intense varietal aroma. Bravo. Dash of sandalwood. Sweet, round, peppery, flavorful, lasting. A good approach with zweigelt. High trocken. Good acid. 91/100.
2017: At Kamptal. This is what it should be. Cool, medium bodied, accurately varietal. Again, the blue fruits, the varietal and regional levity and race. Even a hint of leather. Works. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $15.99 each
GE-2303. 16 NIEDEROSTERREICH ZWEIGELT, WEINGUT HERMANN MOSER 92/100
Deep, rich blue and black fruits. Lots of fruit fulfillment and sense of body and richness. Earthy undertow. Forest floor: sur bois. Noble reduction. Melted tannins. Good acid. Put right to use. 92/100.
Oh so FRESH and lifting, Pure. Not apple, not legume; just GRUNER. Well balanced. Total clarity. Just a mindless GRUVE! 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $16.99 each
GE-2305. 21 NIEDEROSTERREICH GRUNER VELTLINER, WEINGUT FRANZ ETZ liter 91/100
2021 crisp and subtle. Softer on entry and more flavorful than aromatic. Vintage acidity whisks the finish clean. Lingering feel and flavor. Very versatile at the table. 91/100.
Fresh and crisp, crunchy green apple character. 2022's relative softness, so it's smooth flowing on the palate. Pleasing varietal intensity. Good value quaffer at well under $12 the bottle equivalent. 90/100.
From the domaine's scattered terraced parcels too small to be bottled under a single vineyard name; 'federspiel' is derived from falconry. Wow, that's pungent! Apple, lima, split pea soup. A softer profile than the 2021, of course. Plenty good acidity nonetheless. Just up against a richer, riper mouthfeel. Lasting, flavorful, satisfying finish. Ultimately, well balanced as well as generous. 92/100. Very popular with attendees, including WOTN for at least one. Comments like good acid, huge fruit, spice box elements, good length.
How Many bottles/singles: $23.99 each
GE-2310. 22 KAMPTAL RIED HASEL GRUNER VELTLINER, BIRGIT EICHINGER 93/100
Marked by plenty of nasal etch. The extra oomph of a vineyard designate gruve. Upscale for sure. The palate confirms the textural extras and the site specific class. One of the best in the series. A real cut above regional--and even village--rivals. 93/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2311. 22 KAMPTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, WEINGUT BARBARA OHLZEIT liter 91/100
Both fruit pulp padding and fruit juice cut. Again. Full flavor, filling, acidity. Long, balanced, tasty. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $18.99 each
GE-2312. 21 KAMPTAL GOBELSBURGER GRUNER VELTLINER, SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG 92/100
Est. 1171; from vines under 20 years old in the best sites: Lamm, Grub, Renner. A large charge of gruve apple and legume and no brimstone. Kamptal gruner up river and up scale class, styling. Particularly good acid in 2021. Textbook gruner. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2313. 22 KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, EGON liter 90/100
Cool, clear sweet pea nose. We're enjoying this with Le Sueur Very Young Small Sweet Peas, which are clearly sympathetic. Flavor confirms aroma. Flowing and easy. Well balanced. A liter bottle is the right packaging choice.! 90/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2314. 21 KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER PER DUE, WEINGUT HERMANN MOSER 92/100
11.5%. 2021 crisp apple and legume. Oh, that's subtle, accurate; in fact, perfect. Flavors confirm. Bright acidity of the vintage. Surprising body. Yes, lays just right on the palate. Defines Kremstal gruner. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2315. 21 KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, WEINGUT STADT KREMS 91/100
Crisp and racy in 2021. Good green gruve stuff. Fully stuffed with varietal character. Good price. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2316. 20 KREMSTAL WEINBERGE GRUNER VELTLINER, WEINGUT TURK 92/100
Rich aroma. Full and expressive. Impressive. Class. Ample. Spreading. 92/100.
Great apple-legume aromatic intensity. Great acid, juiciness, balance. Food wine. Quaffer. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2318. 22 WAGRAM GRUNER VELTLINER, WEINGUT JOSEF BAUER 91/100
2021: Geez, this is really concentrated. The aroma is still a bit introverted. All is present all the same. Fresh, crisp 2021 acidity. The flavors are as fully concentrated as the aromas. Bravo. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $15.99 each
GE-2319. 21 WAGRAM GRUNER VELTLINER RIED STEINAGRUND, WEINGUT LETH 93/100
Loess over gravel on an ancient course of the Danube; vines planted 1960-1980. Stony, minerally. Nothing about the usual gruve apple and legume. This is terroir and old vines driven. A modest priced intro to top flight gruners that cost twice as much and more. Wow, old vines and terroir texture and mineral extract. And the exceptional acidity and concentration of the cool, low yield 2021 vintage. A singular bargain in its genre. 93/100. Tied for WOTN. 'Very attractive, almost spicy; very flavorful and rich.' 'Clean, classy, solid acidity; contemplative.'
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
GE-2320. 20 WAGRAM GRUNER VELTLINER RIED STEINAGRUND, WEINGUT LETH 93/100
Loess over gravel on an ancient course of the Danube; vines planted 1960-1980. Stony, minerally. Nothing about the usual gruve apple and legume. This is terroir and old vines driven. A modest priced intro to top flight gruners that cost twice as much and more. Wow, old vines and terroir texture and mineral extract. And the exceptional acidity and concentration of the cool, low yield 2021 vintage. A singular bargain in its genre. 93/100. Tied for WOTN. 'Very attractive, almost spicy; very flavorful and rich.' 'Clean, classy, solid acidity; contemplative.'
Wine & Spirits 92 - BEST BUY: 'While this region east of Vienna is more known for red wines, Walter Glatzer pulled off an impressive gruner veltliner from the loess-rich soils of his organically farmed vineyards. It's silky, full and fresh, a hint of slatey minerality under the pineapple fruit. And the acidity remains vivacious for days after opening. $18.'
2019: Usually relatively soft and perfumed thanks to its balmy origin, this 2019 is exceptionally so. Ah, but there's good acid bite on the palate. Wine of place. People pleasing too. 90/100.
An assemblage from steep, terraced sites too small for single-vineyard designation. Whoa! Big time Wachau riesling aroma and nasal presence. Plus terroir. Even if I weren't afforded a chance to taste this, I'd be a happy camper after just nosing it for a spell. No letdown on the palate. Riesling, terroir, all. Flavor and texture in spades. And balance and length complete the picture. 93/100. Attendees were impressed. 'Very riesling and very good. Nice minerality.'
Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Fragrant hints of bergamot and Seville orange play enticingly on the nose of this beguiling wine. The palate amplifies those juicy, tart and lively flavors, sending them dancing into the finish. It's fresh, fruit-driven, dry and utterly moreish.'
How Many bottles/singles: $18.99 each
GE-2325. 22 KAMPTAL RIESLING TROCKEN, SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG 93/100 *
Est. 1171; mainly from Gaisberg and Heiligenstein; vines under 15 years old. This is quite as incisive as the 2021! I love it! Classic middle Danube riesling statement. Wine of place. No mistaking it for a riesling from anywhere else. Wow, great, mouthfilling texture, and that subtle, terroir driven Kamptal interpretation of the variety. There's even more to the texture than in 2021. Awesome. 'Those Kamptal ladies sing this song..' 93/100. Super popular. Wine of the Night for many attendees.
How Many bottles/singles: $25.99 each
GE-2326. 20 KREMSTAL WEINBERGE RIESLING, WEINGUT TURK 92/100
Fine riesling. Upscale. Proper dryness, intensity, profile. Even more riesling flavor than aroma, and an attractive Austrian take it is. Just a bare suggestion of sweetness. Adequate acid to foil. Comes on; very tasty. 92/100.
Extraordinarily focused, pointed, cool climate sauvignon nose. Unique. Lemony. Yes, in cool 2021, this is an off the charts rep of the region's sauvignon. Couldn't be racier, juicy, more mouthwatering. 93/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $27.99 each
SWITZERLAND
GE-2329. 21 MONT SUR ROLLE LA COTE CHASSELAS L'ALPAGE, SOC. COOP. PROVINS 92/100
Aka fendant; from Valais; 25 year old vines at 500-750 meters' elevation. Fresh, crisp, cool, high altitude. Chasselas green fruited and racy. Spot on. Lively, juicy fruit acidity. All about lift, refreshment, light mealtime pleasures. 92/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $19.99 each
HUNGARY
GE-2331. 23 EGRI MERLOT, WEINHAUS KFT 91/100
2018: Rightly sweet, especially this vintage. And enough acid to balance the sweetness. A treat for lovers of sweet red table wines. 91/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $9.99 each
GE-2332. 19 EGRI BIKAVER BULL'S BLOOD, EGERVIN 91/100
The original Bulls Blood; barrel aged. This is unique, thanks to the varietal set. Full, ripe, giving. Wow, great acid too. Take it to the table for goulash, paprikash, plus. 91/100.
Garagiste winemaker; 50% kekfrankos, 21% cab franc, 21% merlot, 8% kadarka; aged 22 months in seasoned Hungarian oak barrels. Denser and darker fruited than last week's kadarka. No surprise. Skillfully rendered. Far superior to the bulk produced Egri Bikavers on the market. Yes, fruit coordination and fruit flair. Plenty of flavor. Very satisfying. 91/100.
'Garagiste' brother and sister team; from old vines; mainstay red variety of southern Hungary for centuries; first kadarka in the market for decades. Pleasing crispness of a central European red varietal. Dry and vinous. Red raspberry notions. Very dry indeed. Not long on aroma and flavor. The acid and texture request table service. Extended after-texture. 90/100.
How Many bottles/singles: $17.99 each
GE-2335. 22 HAJOS-BAJA BLAUFRANKISCH DONAUSONNE, MINOSEGA VOROS BOR 92/100
2014: Medium carmine. Lithe, sweet, fruity, fresh, ideal. Sweet and easy. 10.5%. Couldn't be more come hither. Just right, lithe, racy acid. Berry-cherry taste and aftertaste. Best version of this ever. 92/100.
Nutty, leesy, chalky, sweet. Pollen and old honey. Palate sweet and peachy as well as echoing the entire aromatic complex. Sweeter and more powerful than the beerenauslese, so this was definitely the right tasting order. 96+/100.
2006: Parker 95/100. My notes: Fuller color than the 2010 3 Puttonyos, of course. More concentrated, more complex. Much nuttier. Darker honey. More of a buckwheat honey. Really nectarous concentration. Yeah, succulent. Total concentration. High BA equivalent, with great acidity. Has it all. 97/100.
Wine Spectator 92: 'This is like a fresh lemon, with puckering acidity and roasted almond, orange peel, butterscotch and lemon candy flavors. The high level of sweetness is matched by bracing acidity. Lingers on the palate for what seems like minutes.'
How Many bottles/singles: $89.95 each
GE-2342. 17 TOKAJI LATE HARVEST, ROYAL TOKAJI WINE COMPANY half liter (93/100)
Wine Enthusiast 93; Tasting Panel 94: 'Scents of orange blossom; fresh and bright, with a creamy texture and crisp flavors of apricot and orange. Sweet but balanced, with just enough tangy acidity.'
How Many bottles/singles: $21.99 each
GE-2343. 17 TOKAJI ASZU 5 PUTTONYOS RED LABEL, ROYAL TOKAJI WINE CO. half liter (93/100)
Wine Enthusiast 93: 'Dark amber in the glass, this Tokaj Aszú has aromas of honeycomb, jasmine and freesia. In the mouth are intense flavors of ripe yellow peach and dried apricot.'
How Many bottles/singles: $59.95 each
ROMANIA
PSI-3084. 22 CRAMELE RECAS LEGENDARY ESTATE SERIES ROMANIA CHARDONNAY 90/100
2020: Now that the Russian market has dried up, Romania is focusing on Western Europe and American consumers, while re-styling its table wines to their liking. Spot on appley chardonnay character unencumbered by barrel complications. Clear as a bell varietal character. Good acidity and overall balance. At the table, one glass invites another. 90/100.