At Civrac; half each merlot, cab sauv; 2/3 on gravel, 1/3 on clay; vines average 25 years; aged between 12-18 months in barrel according to vintage. First time with this estate, though it's owned commonly with Panigon, which I stock. Holding its color blackness well. Still fruity but now softer than were young '16 clarets. Nice. More than ample portion of cabernet black fruit for Medoc. Barrel mellowed but not scented. A nice bottle of fairly mature claret at a great price. 91+/100.

In Ordonnac; 35 year old vines; 50% cab sauv, 45% merlot, 5% cab franc, petit verdot; aged a year in barrels. A stout and forthright Medoc, quite powerful. Dark, solid, and well framed for 2018, but not without the vintage's lush fruit attributes. Equally dusky and well structured on the palate. Still considerable tannin to shed. This has a lot of material to it for the price. it seems to be abnormally cabernet dominant for the AOC. 91+/100.

On a gravel outcrop in northern Medoc near the port of Goulee; 35+ year old vines owned by Cos d'Estournel; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; wine made by the Cos team; 50% new barrels. Dark red violet. Dark and distinguished. Full bodied. Well oaked. Seems to have even more oomph than when last tasted. Just the right degree of ripeness in 2019. The barrels supply a whale of a complex nose. Full bodied, full textured, flavorful of fruit and barrel in harmony. Remains the greatest (Bas) Medoc of the 21st century. Good acid, overall balance. It's a neat, discreet, and complete Left Bank claret. Fine tannin and length. I continue to assert it's the best Bas Medoc going these days. 94+/100.

From a property in northern Medoc. Dark color. Brilliant nose. The fruit is so elegant, so well married to its oak seasonings. No sense of clay basis in this Medoc. It's all about gravel terroir and brilliant handling. More pure class than any Bas Medoc I've ever nosed over 57 years in the wine trade. The raspberry, cassis, and Asian spice beauties are all up front on the palate too. 2018 fruit forward style well tempered by barrel aging into something of outstanding integrity. 96+/100.

2016: 50% merlot, 45% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; average vine age: 28 years. Aged 12 to 18 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Decanter 95/100.

Suckling 96; Dunnuck 93; Decanter 93; Parker 91+: 'One of the sleepers of the vintage is the 2022 Potensac, a dense, concentrated wine redolent of creme de cassis, cigar wrapper and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, layered and youthfully structured, this will reward a bit of patience. Drink 2027-2045.'

At Saint Seurin de Cadourne, north of Saint Estephe. 65% merlot, 35% cab sauv. Aged a year in barrels. Suckling 93-94: 'Very dense and rich with a solid core of ripe tannins and beautiful fruit. Full bodied, tight and muscular. Impressive.'

In St. Laurent, west of St. Julien; 68% cab sauv, 30% merlot, 2% petit verdot; aged a year in barrels, 30% new. Well, that's a big sprawl of 2018 fruit ripeness and new oak complex. Deep, dark, ambitious. Cab sauv blackberry to the fore. Ripe fruit savors. Fruit and oak tannins promise a long life. A little backwoods obstinance on the finish. All the same, probably the best Belgrave vintage I've tasted. 94+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'The 2016 Belgrave is a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot and was picked from 28 September until 20 October. It has a generous bouquet with small dark cherries, blueberry and crushed violet aromas, quite Margaux-like in style. There is certainly good intensity here. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening: blackberry, mint and cedar. From the start there is fine tension and there is very impressive structure towards the finish, plus a long saline aftertaste. This is a very strong follow-up to the 2015 Belgrave and indeed, it may surpass it. Drink 2021 - 2042.'

Suckling 94/100; Anson 93/100; Galloni 93/100.

Parker 91: 'A strong effort from this improving estate, the 2020 Camensac reveals aromas of rich cherries, cassis and truffle framed by a deft touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and impressively concentrated, it's attractively pure, with powdery tannins and a vanillin-inflected finish. Give it a little time to digest its élevage, and it will offer excellent drinking. Drink 2025 - 2045.'

Parker 91: 'The 2019 Camensac has only improved since I tasted it earlier this year, adding floral aromas of violet and rose to its attractive bouquet of dark berries and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a lively, concentrated wine that concludes with a long, penetrating finish. Drink 2023-2045.'

Decanter 94/100; Parker 92-94: 'The finest wine this estate has produced in some time is the 2022 Cantemerle, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc that bursts from the glass with aromas of sweet blackberries, violets, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with an enveloping core of sweet, perfumed fruit framed by supple tannin, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish.' My notes: Black fruited Macau and Cantemerle classic statement. The black bird sings. Proper measure of Grand Cru barrel sophistication in harmony. A complete Cantemerle. Sits right on the palate too, though the overall flavor and texture displays are more constrained by youthfulness. No matter; it's here for the long run. 94+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93; Anson 92; Wine Spectator 92: Parker 91+: 'A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 5.5% Petit Verdot and 2.5% Malbec, the 2022 Cissac confirms its evolution toward a charming, delicate bouquet of dark wild berries, smoke, licorice and cigar wrap. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it has structured tannins, a fleshy, delicate core of fruit and a well-balanced finish with a spicy aftertaste. This is a real effort. Drink 2025-2032.'

Dunnuck 92/100; Suckling 92/100. Owned by Groupe Taillan (with Ferriere, Gruaud Larose, Chasse Spleen, Haut Bages Liberal); managed by Celine Villars; the chateau's 'park' is noted for its peacocks. Dark red black. Yes, black fruited to the core. And bright fruited as well. Some oak complex lurks. Very firm, dry, and tannic for 2022. Let's see what aeration does, though I suspect more bottle age will still be in demand. The goods are here. Lots of material and potential. 92++/100. Attendees agreed this was both closed up now and had the most cellar potential of the 2022s tasted.

Owned by the Bories of Ducru Beaucaillou; at Cussac, south of St. Julien; 70% cab sauv, 25% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged a year in oak barrels. Quality cork. Full color for a light vintage. Sweet, black cabernet fruit meets quality oak augmentation. What you'd expect of Borie regardless of vintage. That carries over to the palate. 2017's relative levity and flow nicely captured by a top winemaker. Some fine grained tannin, but it doesn't preclude dinnertime service. 92+/100. Enjoyed by all. 'Smells of class and tastes of cabernet.' 'Classic Bordeaux!'

James Suckling 92: 'An array of baking spices and toasty oak sits across dark-cherry compote and chocolate. The palate has a smooth, sturdy tannin frame and good depth of dark-fruit flavors. Try from 2020.'

Decanter 93/100; Wine Enthusiast 93: 'From a deep gravel outcrop in the heart of the Haut-Medoc, this wine offers richness and density. Black fruits show freshness while also melding well with the spicy wood aging. The wine is worth aging. Drink from 2026.'

At Cissac; 45% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 15% petit verdot, 5% cab franc; average vine age 37 years; aged a year in barrels, 20% new. Certainly a lot of black fruit here, with the darker varieties in the majority. Relative ease and forward nature of 2019. Solid Cissac foundation. Yes, good 2019 ease and flow at age four. The barrel influence is well integrated now. A good Haut Medoc representative. 91/100. 'Well done; pretty classy Haut Medoc; oak in reasonable balance for a younger wine,' stated one attendee.

Owner Marie-Laure Lurton; at Avensan in the south; 55% cab sauv, 45% merlot; 12 months in barrels, 20% new; one of only six Crus Exceptionnel in the original, 1932 cru bourgeois classification. Now, here 2022 really makes a big difference. These are often backward, four square, and stodgy in youth. 2022 renders a gentle and revealing episode. Yes. Well, the palate is still pretty compact and tannic in keeping with its heritage. That's OK; it just directs it to the wine cellar for a spell. 93+/100.

Parker 91: 'Derived from old vines growing in deep gravel soils, the 2019 de Villegeorge is a terrific effort for this 12-hectare Avensan estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cigar wrapper, petals and sweet soil tones, it's medium-bodied, supple and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a seamless, complete profile. A fine value, it's well worth seeking out. Drink now-2042.'

Parker 91; Wine Spectator 92: 'Shows a darker profile than most of its AOC brethren, with dark plum and black cherry fruit forming the core, while hints of singed bay leaf, warm earth and dark tobacco peek through. Reveals an earthy tug through the finish, too. Approachable now but no rush. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2034.'

Suckling 96; Parker 94+: 'As usual, this estate crafted another sensual, delicate wine in a region where power and austerity are often the norm. The 2022 Haut-Marbuzet reveals an elegant, seductive bouquet of licorice, dark berries, cherries and flowers mingled with barely noticeable oak. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's enveloping with a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and a long, mineral, almost saline finish. It's a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Drink 2028-2048.'

Dunnuck 93/100; Anson 93/100; Wine Spectator 93/100.

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'This wine shows its Saint-Estephe origin with its solid, firm tannins. It has perfumed black currant fruit flavors for the future. Ripe and still maturing, the wine will be ready from 2026. $30.' My notes: Still very youthful in appearance at age seven, a good age for evaluating clarets. That's Saint Estephe solid and black fruited. Class fruit. No clay-borne heaviness of the backwater Saint Estephes. Yeah, and a subtle measure of barrel extras too. Tannins persist even in fruit driven 2018. No problem. The best bargain in Saint Estephe on the market today. 94+/100.

Wine Spectator 94: 'Black cherry and dark currant fruit is lightly mulled in feel, while sweet tobacco, chestnut leaf and singed alder notes wrap around it. The earth-tinged finish shows focus and poise. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2038.'

Dunnuck 96; Parker 94: 'The 2022 Tronquoy has turned out much better than I anticipated, bursting with aromas of dark berries, cassis, cigar box and nicely integrated new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular palate that's dense and penetrating. This is well worth seeking out. Drink 2027-2045.'

Wine Enthusiast 94-96; Parker 93-95: 'The 2022 Haut-Bages-Libéral is lovely, bursting with aromas of blackberries and cherries mingled with notions of orange zest, rose petals and violets. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and gourmand, with lively acids and a bright, chalky finish, its low pH of 3.54 reflects a decade of organic farming and the limestone subsoils that characterize this sector of Pauillac.'

Suckling 97/100; Anson 94/100; Dunnuck 94/100.

Suckling 95; Galloni 93; Dunnuck 93; Parker 93; Wine Spectator 93: 'Laden with warmed cassis and dark plum notes, this moves slowly as bittersweet cocoa, espresso crema and dark tobacco accents fill in along the way. Cedar and savory hints add range and cut to the finish, and there's ample latent depth. A touch old school and can handle some cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038.' My notes: Inky red violet. That Pauillac cabernet black currant and cedar expressed more clearly in a claret from this source in memory. Of course, it's been a long time since I've tasted a Pichon Comtesse wine. There's a measure of plushness from merlot and the Saint Julien quarter too. And barrel sophistication. A treat for the senses and mind alike. Quieter palate. Constrained by both fruit and (even drier) oak tannins. In conclusion, the nose tells me all I need to know about its essence, the palate, its potential. 95+/100.

Decanter 93: 'Juicy and alive, energetic from the start, bright and vibrant with juicy, well-integrated tannins plumped up concentrated dark fruit giving the strength and richness. Broad and full with lots to offer, appealing and easy to enjoy with a sweet succulence at the end that lifts the whole palate and makes you want to try it again. Some salty, mineral touches on the finish too gives a nice lingering mineral flavour. Tasted twice. 6% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. A yield of 34hl/ha. Harvest 12-26 September.'

2015: Parker 92: 'Tasted at the Cru Bourgeois annual tasting, the 2015 Branas Grand Poujeaux is often one of the finest Moulis wines and this vintage is no different. It has a gorgeous bouquet of mulberry, dried herbs and cedar, very well defined with plenty of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, well-judged acidity, very harmonious with a plush finish that belies the structure underneath. Excellent (again) from this Moulis estate. Tasted September 2017. Drink 2020-2035.'

Est. 1457; bought by Anthony Barton's daughter, Lilian, in 2011; she's now in charge of all three Barton Chateaux; 59% cab sauv; 35%, merlot, 6% cab franc; aged in barrels 12-15 months, 1/3 new. Wine Enthusiast 92-94; Suckling 93; Anson 92; Wine Spectator 91: 'A stylish red, with warm clay, sandalwood and tea notes gliding through in unison with pretty plum and cassis flavors. The fine-grained finish shows a late flash of iron. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2034.'

Galloni 92/100; Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux 92/100.

Wine Enthusiast 92-94: 'This classed growth from Margaux is showing a spurt of quality in this firmly structured wine. The wood aging is prominent but does not mask the rich black fruits. It has a core of tannins that will eventually balance with the acidity.'

Wine Enthusiast 94: 'A fine wine that shows great pedigree and density. The wine's dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon, with black currant aroma and black plum flavors, shows great potential. Drink from 2028.' Parker 92-94: 'A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2022 Ferriere offers up aromas of dark berries, plums and sweet soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's suave, elegantly muscular and lively. From biodynamically farmed clay-rich gravels, this 18-hectare estate (formerly leased to Chateau Lascombes) possesses an unusually high proportion of old vines, with fully one-third of their vineyards over 70 years of age.'

Est. 1791; owned by Claire Villars-Lurton; 25hl/h yield (under 2 tons per acre); aged in 15% new barrels, 35% second year barrels, 35% in concrete eggs, 15% amphorae;. 53% cab sauv, 30% merlot, 17% petit verdot; Mr. Chip (the importer) is really keen on this one. Very dark red violet. A lot of Margaux charm. Complex of aging vessels augmentations. Concentrated, yet still 2022 and Margaux elegant. Ideal 2022 suavity, harmony in both flavor and textural ranges. Black fruited La Gurgue style. Top vintage of this, in the best of hands now. 94+/100. Attendees sure agreed with Mr. Chip. Big time group favorite. 'Wonderful nose and palate. Very complex. Long finish. Nice oak influence. Grand Cru Classe quality.' 'Oh so young, oaky, tannic.' 'Needs further cellaring. Excellent indeed.'

Suckling 94/100; Jane Anson, Inside Bordeeaux 92/100.

Galloni 94; Wine Spectator 94: 'Hibiscus and iris accents are infused liberally throughout a core of mulberry and blackberry puree in this version. Black tea and sanguine hints add range on the fleshy finish, which ends with a lovely sweet cedar echo. Textbook for the AOC and the vintage. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2040.'

James Suckling 93; Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Marie-Laure Lurton,'s estate has created a well balanced, juicy and fruity wine. Fine tannins, a black currant aroma and layers of black fruits, give a textured, ripe wine. Drink from 2028.' My notes: This has more substance, more stuffing than previous vintages I've tasted. It's not particularly 2022 and Margaux elegant, but the superiority in constitution to past years is impressive. Well, there is a degree of Margaux charm and perfume coming forth on the palate. Some oak to absorb and fruit and oak tannins to resolve. Still, this seems to be coming of age as the vines mature. 92+/100.

Suckling 94; Anson 94; Dunnuck 93; Wine Enthusiast 93; Parker 92: 'The second year of organic conversion marks a new start in Bordeaux's classic estate. Evoking aromas of dark berries, flowers, spices and oak, the 2022 Bouscaut is medium to full-bodied, round and dense on the palate with chewy tannins and a slightly dry finish attributed to an oaky, toasty aftertaste and characteristic Cabernet grip. Overall, it represents a commendable effort. Drink 2026-2032.'

Parker 96: 'The 2022 de Fieuzal meets all expectations, unfurling with a perfumed bouquet of violet, iris, dark wild berries and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it gains depth with the élevage, revealing a fleshy core of fruit and an enrobing mid-palate framed by velvety, sweet tannins. Finishing long, ethereal and fresh, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot is one of my favorite wines in Pessac-Leognan. It will offer a broad drinking window and should improve with time in the cellar. Drink 2027-2042.'

Wine Spectator 91; Parker 91: 'The 2014 Latour-Martillac has an attractive bouquet with intense blackberry, briary, warm gravel and balsamic notes that are very well defined and evoke Pessac-Leognan through and through. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannin. It feels gentle in the mouth, not structured but fleshy and full, fanning out with crushed strawberry, red cherry and white pepper towards the satisfying finish. This is early drinking compared to its peers, yet well crafted. 2019 to 2032.'

Second wine of Grand Cru Malartic Lagraviere; 83% merlot, 12% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; 16 months in barrels, 25% new; Decanter 91/100. Dark ruby and earning some rim ruddiness. Well, the sweetness of merlot, the black earth impression I get from good Graves clarets, though, of course, that's not the terroir. Nice flow of 2019. Barrel contributions are now nicely absorbed. Has vintage and Malartic stylishness about it. And a promising, mid term development potential. 92+/100. Well liked: 'really good; classy; very rich, long flavors; great value.'

Decanter 94; Dunnuck 94; Galloni 93; Parker 92: 'Denser and deeper than the Les Hauts de Smith, the 2022 Le Petit Haut Lafitte is a real success this year, revealing a lively, vibrant bouquet of dark wild berries, cassis, flowers and licorice mingled with delicate notes of rose. Medium to full-bodied, round and supple, it's layered and seamless and framed by velvety tannins, concluding with a long, floral finish. Perfect for gastronomy, this well-crafted Pessac-Leognan has plenty of freshness despite the dry season. Drink 2025-2032.'

Est. 1828; Jacques Perromat at Mazeres; 50% merlot, 40% cab sauv, 10% cab franc. Dark maroon. Classic Graves varietal set with some positive and characteristic black earth notes of southern Graves claret. Spot on. Full fruit flavor and range too, plus superior Graves body, density, delivery. Very light tannin on a lasting finish. 92+/100. Very well received. WOTN for at least one attendee. 'Very well made; balanced, complex.' 'Good body, structure.' 'Good deal from Graves.'

Parker 92: 'Aromas of dusty berries, cherries, warm spices and petals introduce the 2020 Fonroque, a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy wine with a vibrant core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish. As readers may remember, part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink 2025-2045.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Fonroque has turned out nicely, offering up aromas of blackberries, minty cassis, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a rich, generous, demonstrative wine that remains nicely balanced. Part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink now-2039.'

2018: Parker 93: '71% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Carmenere and 2% Malbec. .Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 de Pressac prances out of the glass with cheery scents of Morello cherries, black raspberries and plum preserves, plus suggestions of chocolate mint, licorice and unsmoked cigars. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers loads of energetic black, blue and red fruit layers, framed by grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and mineral laced. It's approachable now yet has the stuffing to cellar for 15 years or more. Drink 2022-2038.'

That lovely ruby glow of 2022 claret. Beautiful contours. The revealing merlot and cab franc dimensions of the western Saint Emilion plateau clarets. Full of vintage charm and equilibrium. Fruit runs deep and is complexed by barrel influence. Class act at a good price. Spot on rep and value. Lovely fruit harmony of 2022 in its Right Bank glory. This is just SO right! Fruit runs deep and is complexed by barrel influence. Class act at a good price. Yes, just the right degree of fruit sweetness kept honest by the finest grained of tannins. Long finish both flavor and texture wise. Will improve. Tannin on finish for age worthiness. 93+/100.

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; vines averaging 40 years; aged 15 months in oak barrels. Dark red violet. Black merlot push and depth, with decided, integrated, and inviting barrel complex. Yes, old vines merlot intensity with plenty of barrel sophistication. For a second wine, Grand Vin! 94/100. WOTN by a long shot. 'Now we get real wine. Super nice nose. Really good St. Emilion version. Complex; tannins in balance.' 'Great stuff and will develop.'

Suckling 96; Galloni 94+; Parker 93+: 'Exhibiting notions of dark berries, blackberries and licorice, the 2022 Tour Saint Christophe is medium to full-bodied and has an enveloping texture with a fleshy core of fruit and powdery tannins leading to a long, rather concentrated finish. This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from vines planted on clay-limestone soil is a real success.'

Dunnuck 95; Parker 93+; Jane Anson 93: 'Brushed velvet tannins, plenty of tannic grip and a spicy core, this has the character of the vintage, with an architecture that is a little chunky and takes its time to stretch out, but once it relaxes, the finish is long and refreshing, with edges of rosemary, sage, saffron and slate. Enjoyable. 45% new oak 82% merlot, 14% cab franc, 4% petit verdot.'

Decanter 93: 'Lovely fragrance on the nose, so scented and perfumed, really expressive and open on the nose. Juicy and supple, gorgeous mouthwatering acidity with quite a compact palate giving a push-pull of freshness and texture. The tannins are at the fore but nicely fill the mouth with fleshy black and red fruit ? filling but not harsh. Lots of liquorice and spiced elements but all well integrated. Has a sense of style and polish with plenty of flavour and long length ? really sustains interest and lasts and lasts. Will be delicious. Simon and Loic from Derenoncourt. Added two more small plots of 1.5ha so they now have 6.5ha. Soil is the same, only clay, with veins of blue clay especially where the old Merlots are. Average age of vines is 45. Yield of 30hl/ha. Harvest 19 and 20 September for Merlot and Cabernet Franc 23 September. Ageing 16 months, one third new oak in 500l barrels, one third one year old barrels (part 500l, 225l), the rest two year old barrels 225l.'

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. This has more elegance, more intrigue. And more barrel influence. Thus more subtle and more complex. Consistent with previous vintages. Surprising measure of tannin for the vintage. It's fine grained. The fruit and oak flavor melange build as it warms in the mouth. Good acid for balance. This will cellar well. 92+/100. While more fruit emerged with aeration, attendees enjoyed this most for the positives I've described. 'Both serious and tasty.'

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. A full, rich, round wine as it ought to be given zone and vintage. The barrel influence is evident and positive. Cellar temperature boosts the tannin effect. Flavorful of merlot and barrel in harmony. 2020 framing. Generosity that is Saint Emilion. 91+/100. Tannins widely noted, and fruit level to stand up to them. Well liked overall.

Soft, fresh, inviting Right Bank, merlot dominant 2019 claret. Good 19 flow. Plenty of cherry-berry fruit. Flavorful too, though there's a surprising level of tannin activity. Good acidity. On the basis of the nose, I'd be taking this to the table; by the palate, to the cellar. 91+/100.

On clay and limestone; merlot (vines up to 90 years old), cab franc, malbec; aged 12-14 months in barrels and larger oak cooperage. Inky red violet. Well, now, barrels loom larger still. Definite woody complexity. Old vines concentrated, terroir superiority, most agreeable encepagement. Yes, a step up overall over the regional clarets tasted alongside. . Well integrated wood and fruit tannins. The old vines and terroir character are up to them. Hits well above its price point. Hard to believe these 2022 clarets are still coming forth, and demonstrating the same style and quality level as the earlier arrivals. 93+/100.

Est. 1711 by the Cisterian Abbey of Fraize; all merlot this vintage. Quite the contrast. Herbaceous merlot and little barrel influence. Chateau La Gurgue Margaux is a tough act to follow. Growing in aromatic range and interest as it airs. Good fullness, terroir and variety roundness and richness. And good acid too. 2022 equilibrium. As it distances itself from La Gurgue and becomes its own thing, it's pretty damn impressive. And half the price of its predecessor. 92+/100. Attendees agreed this suffered for the tasting order. 'Lighter and less backward but certainly quality fruit.'

A nice and meaty St Emilion, not without 2022 elegance. Suave fruit of the vintage and a nice little back bite of tannin for cellaring. Deal. 91+/100.

2020: Once owned by Roman poet Ausonius.; 55 year old vines; 70% merlot, 30% cab franc; aged 15 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Deep red violet color. Black fruited and serious 2020 vintage product. Not as fruity and flowing as the 2018 and 2019. Black through and through. Important measure of barrel savors too, Big time satellite claret. Just as dark and surly on the palate. Tannin calls for keeping. Real black cherry and raspberry fruit concentration. Awesome future. 93+/100.

Very dark still. Boy, that's good and sweet 2018 Right Bank merlot. With St. Georges blackness. Spot on nose. Sweet on the palate too, and snappy. Some tannin yet to shed. Will carry on. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'This is fleshy and seductive in feel, with gently mulled black currant and blackberry fruit holding sway over savory, smoldering charcoal, just-tilled humus and worn cedar notes on the finish. Shows range and character. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2026 through 2035.'

Dunnuck 94; Anson 94; Galloni 92; Wine Spectator 92: 'Fresh and tightly focused, with a racy beam of red and black cherry fruit laced with violet and rose petal accents on the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2034.'

In the commune of Belves at one of the highest points of the appellation. On a continuation of Saint Emilion's clay-limestone slope. 80% merlot, 18% cab franc, 2% cab sauv. Wine Enthusiast 93/100. My notes: Dark, with a slight ruddy cast at age 6. Boy, two years older but equally fresh and youthful. Sweet merlot to the fore, in a more linear form of 2016. Clearly there are oak contributions. Well, falling into a bit of a trough like many a 2016 claret at this stage. Less flavor and more tannin impact. No problem. Plenty of bouquet potential. 92+/100.

95% merlot, 5% cab franc; owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; barrel aged 15 months. Well, this is good Castillon terrior (an eastern extension of the Saint Emilion cote) and Grand Cru Classe elevage. Folks are going to have to learn that Castillons nurtured in this fashion are worth over thirty bucks. Ripe 2018 fruit and intricate barrel nuances. Deep, full, lasting. One of the best. Full bodied and full flavored. Full of 2018 merlot richness and savor. And so finely imparted barrel embellishments. I'm in awe. 94+/100.

All merlot; second wine of Chateau l'Hetre, owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; from younger vines and parcels on the lower slopes. Deep red violet. While dominated by sweet, ripe, concentrated merlot fruit, there's a surprising measure of oak sophistication evident for a second wine. Full Thienpont class. White dwarf extract compactness on the palate. And considerable tannin for merlot. That's 2020, and, I suspect, a measure of press wine. 100% allure on the nose; resistance (but potential) on the palate. 92+/100.

Famille Taix; 20 acres on the limestone plateau and clayey slope; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc; a minor percentage aged in new barrels. Well, that minor percentage goes a long ways toward contributing to aromatic range, complexity, and suavity of the nose. Good and generous, ripe Castillon fruit of the Saint Emilion's cote's eastern extension. Great acid here too. And mellow Castillon richness. Consistent overachiever. 92/100.

Parker 92+: 'One of my favorites this year and surely a wine that punches above its weight, the 2022 Joanin Becot reveals a perfumed, vibrant bouquet of iris, lilac, dark berries, licorice and violet. Medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, it's lively and juicy with a fresh core of fruit, bright acids and fleshy texture, concluding with a fresh, ethereal and mouthwatering finish. This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is a real success and worth hunting down.Drink 2025-2032.' My notes: ' Fully in synch with 2022 equilibrium. The good oak complex of the higher class Castillons. What a lovely, harmonious presentation. Grip of fruit and oak tannin yet, like in the family's great Saint Emilion in youth. Cellar it. 93+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'Notes of sweet cherries, berries, licorice and smoke preface the 2022 Montlandrie, a medium to full-bodied, suave and vibrant wine with a deep core of fruit, lively acids, powdery tannins and a saline finish. This vibrant, intensely flavored Côtes de Castillon is once again one of Bordeaux's best values in this vintage.'

The prestige cuvee. 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv. Nice and spicy nose. Barrel aging stuff going on here. Yes, mellowed by barrel aging too. Baking spices. Quite the treat. 92/100.

Famille Martin; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; 2/3 aged a year in barrels. DIAM cork. Still youthful appearance; dense and dark red violet. Barrel influence is always clear in this cuvee, and it adds a large measure of sophistication that is not common in Blaye clarets. Seems as strong and generous as previous vintages. 2019 juiciness. Oak carries on. Both oak and fruit tannins still. Always age worthy. Continues to impress me as a large and complex presentation for the price. 92+/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Lovely nose. Serious wine.' 'Some development; leather tones.' Rich and classy.' 'Nicely structured.' 'Some tannin still.'

Proprietor Antoine de Roquefeuil; in the family since the Revolution; on the left bank of the Garonne next to the Graves AOC. Seems to incorporate both merlot sweet cherry (the cherry theme continues) and the cabernets' blackberry and black raspberry. Quite a substantial nose, closer to 14% than 11%. I'd guess 13.5. Saucy palate replete with all aromatic impressions learned on the nose. Firm, yet to develop flavor core, though no tannic resistance. With food now, or to the cellar 1-2 years. Pretty classic to 2020 claret. 91+/100. Generally well received. All agreed it would improve with more bottle age. 'Black cherry, pepper, black olive.' 'Good overall fruit quality.' 'Certainly worth the tariff.'

Proprietress Isabelle Valbom-Nadal at Arveyres in Entre Deux Mers south of Libourne. 80% merlot, 20% cab franc. Sweet, elegant, attractive, well poised example of 2022 claret. Plenty of fruit at just the right claret weight. Sweet fruit on the palate too. And that 2022 evenness. Lays just right. Good acid. Dusting of tannin. Harmonious and delicious now. Likely to age gracefully. 91/100.

60% merlot, 30% cab sauv, 10 % cab franc; in far eastern Entre Deux Mers. Deep colored and holding its youthful appearance at age five. Oh, boy, this is so complicated and generous for a claret at this price. It's serving us well, steadily. Juicier and more flavorful on the palate. This has a lot to offer, both flavor and texture wise. Especially for the price. Full, and still retaining 2020 tannin obstinance. That 2020 core of potential. Gads, there's a lot of material here though. Food or cellar. 92+/100. Opened up more after aeration, earning Red WOTN acclaim. One attemdee commented 'ready to roll.'

At Camarsac, Entre Deux Mers; proprietor Thierry Lurton; 95% merlot, 5% cab franc. Dark red violet. That's one dense, compact merlot. Nothing fruity and forward about the nose. Fairly loaded. Palate shows more merlot plushness, yet plenty of balancing acidity chimes in. Certainly of Superieur extra concentration. Eminently cellar worthy, which is rare at this price. 91+/100.

At Villegouge; merlot and cab sauv. Full colored. 2020 claret darkness and fortitude. Merlot sweetness to the fore. Even more merlot richness on the palate, with the darker fruited and firmer cabernet in the mix. This is really ample for its appellation. Full bodied and giving. Light tannin to resolve. 91+/100. Wood case.

At Saint Loubes in northwest Entre Deux Mers near the Dordogne; merlot and cab sauv. Plush, forward merlot backed by cabernet black fruit solidity. Well crafted. Tres claret, with 2022 elegance. Even sweeter in the mouth. But not pandering. There's 2022 moderation, equilibrium. Plenty of flavor and length. No balky tannins. Definite value. 91/100.

At Mouliets et Villemartin, across the Dordogne from Castillon; part of Domaines Comte de Malet Roquefort along with Chateau La Gaffeliere, whose team makes this wine; 80% merlot, 20% cab franc; vine age: 35 years. No mention of barrel aging on the website, but the complexity of its aromatic set suggest so. Serious fare here. Full and intense, especially for the vintage. Has Saint Emilion Grand Cru like ambitions. What looks expensive for its AOC proves to be a bargain given its well bred disposition. 93+/100.

At Saint Christophe des Bardes, in the jurisdiction of Saint Emilion; all merlot; clay soil. Even darker and deeper appearance. Wow, this is larger in power, scope, depth, and, dare I say, complexity. Really something. Total flavor and mouthfilling experience. This is up to full Saint Emilion quality. One of the Bargains of the Year. 93/100. Attendees agreed. The most popular of the six for price/quality ratio. 'The new barrels show. Classy wine ? very fine and a bargain. Merlot style at its best.' 'Serious depth and structure. Great value.'

2016: 98% merlot, 2% cabernet franc. 43 year old vines. 9 months in barrels, half new. Owned by the Janoueix family. Oh, charm, oak, finesse, barrel time, everything. Perfect. Perfectly proportioned. Super value. 92/100.

At Galgon, northwest of Lalande de Pomerol; 45% each merlot, cab franc; 10% cab sauv; vine age 15-35 years. Similar appearance. The cabernets show stronger here. An attractive claret combo in full harmony. Seems to be some barrel influence, though surely no new oak. Adds range and depth. Again, barrel traits, including some wood tannin. Solid 2022 balance and fruit integrity. Could use a year or more for full tannin resolution. 91+/100.

Est. 1837; at Montussan; all merlot; 40 year old vines; 1/4 aged in once filled barrels; winemakers Jean-Claude and Jean-Francois Berrouet (Petrus, Dominus). Dark red violet. Gads, this is loaded! Fathomless depth. Continues to awe. Really meaty 2020 concentration. Wow. The Berrouets know merlot!/ Oak makes a much stronger statement on the palate, and it's positive and complexing. Helluva serious claret for the price. Really mouthfilling, full bodied, generous heavyweight. Plenty of fruit sweetness and concentration. 2020 tannins emerge in the back to ensure stamina. Very long aftertaste. 93+/100. Attendees were impressed; orders taken. 'Merlot black cherry.' 'Ripe, full, thick, tannic.'

From Issan''s vineyards on the richer palus soils between Margaux's gravels and the estuary; 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv; barrel aged. Dark maroon. Easily the grandest and most complex of the set of five 2022 Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur clarets tasted 3/4/26. Clear and positive barrel influences, which is why I placed it last in the set. Full fruit and oak seasonings. Full bodied, full textured, deep and rangy. Plays well above its AOC. 93+/100. Well liked by attendees; Wine of the Night votes. 'Clearly the most complex and classiest of the clarets. Spice, florals, quality oak. Solid in every respect. Another wine in need of cellaring.'

At Saint Genis du Bois in central Entre Deux Mers; 70% cab sauv, 30% merlot. Dark maroon. Nose as dense and dark as the appearance. Unusually high percentage of cab sauv for these parts, and it shows. No ripeness issues. Darkness and grip of cab sauv. Plenty of substance and tannin. Not a come hither 2022. Built to last. 91++/100. Liked by attendees, while considered 'New World-ish', Significant oak vanillins came forth, and they were widely appreciated. As was the high cab sauv content. 'Smells like a more expensive wine.'

All old vines merlot. Very dark color. Sweetness of merlot with old vines and vintage courage. Suggestions of barrel aging complex. Damn good, well concentrated. Dense and yet juicy on the palate. This has more bulk and fortitude than many an all merlot of regional appellation. Earns the higher price. Balance and tannin for longevity. 91+/100.

Vignobles Jean-Bernard Saby at Saint Aignan northwest of Fronsac; ninth generation; aged in seasoned barrels. Now here we have some color saturation. Inky red violet. Well, this is just wonderful. The power is positive and matched by fruit sweetness and concentration. Barrel influence is complexing. Another 2022 claret triumph. Unusually big in the mouth thanks to both high extract and alcohol. It's a miracle claret of climate change. 91+/100.

Decanter 91/100. My notes: 60% merlot, 40% cab sauv. Well constituted and in tune with the series. 2018 plumpness flatters this wine. Yes, it's rich and relatively forward. Flavorful, well balanced, well textured. A top vintage of this. 91/100.

Rich merlot dominance. 18 black fruit. Really quite dense and powerful for its appellation. Yes, rich, black, well rounded merlot palate. Fine body and flavor intensity. Really delivers for the price. I'll be buying this one. 91+/100.

Est. 1833 at Donzac; 6th generation owner/winemaker Vincent Lacoste; vineyards on both sides of the Garonne; 85% merlot, 15% cab sauv; average age 35 years; yields under 2 tons per acre. Lovely dark red violet. Deep, old vine merlot dominance, concentration. Dark cabernet underlayment. 2022 stylish, harmonious. Definite old vines density of material. Well balanced. Fine grained tannins that food will take up. Long, tasty finish. 2022 continues to show the way. Good price. 92+/100. The overall attendee favorite of the clarets, WOTN for some. 'Great Bordeaux nose.' 'Wow! Great nose. Complex nose and palate. Nice oak treatment. Just wonderful and a great value. Even drinkable now.' 'Oak and spice nose, plenty of fruit. All the parts are there. Needs time.'

Famille Chollet since 1865; vineyard borders Lussac St. Emilion; 80% merlot, 20% the cabernets. A lot of sweet merlot fruit out in front. It does exude Saint Emilion area generosity. Runs deep too. Yeah, very rich and ample for its modest AOC and low price. No intrusive 2020 tannins. A lot of Right Bank claret for the money. 91/100.

At Gornac, Entre deux Mers northeast of Cadillac; 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv. Dark red violet. Mmm, and the deep seated purple fruit is right there, as the appearance promises. Freshness and equilibrium of the vintage. Wears its power well. And the power adds to the mouthfilling experience, rich in fruit, acid, and fine tannin. Plenty of fruit and a finely burnished texture. Personifies 2022 claret at a bargain price. Lasting feels and flavors. Overachiever for the price. Will improve. 91+/100. The 22 claret sextet was overwhelming popular with attendees; many orders taken. This one: 'Lovely fruit nose with well balanced fruit palate. really quite delish. This is the kind of Bordeaux I always wanted to find but never have before. Real claret taste but also easy to drink. Loved by all, especially at the price.'

All merlot. More accommodating than the Haut Genin. Quite suave. Good acid again. 91+/100.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux 93/100. My notes: 'At Tizac de Curton,, across the Dordogne from Saint Emilion; proprietor, Pierre Lurton; merlot plus the cabernets. Strange to serve claret after Med France rouge. Claret alcohol statements lately are through the roof though. And this one smells fully 14% strong. And barrel influenced, another reason for the service order. Sweet and richly fruity palate. Large and modern claret, especially for the modest AOC. These Lurtons know what they're doing. Generosity over subtlety. 92+/100.

Famille Pierre Lurton; at Tizac de Curton; 80% merlot, 15% cab sauv, 7% cab franc, 3% malbec; aged a year in barrels, half new. Very sweet and pretty merlot dominant nose. The barrels add an attractive tonal sub theme. Good acid of 2021 wrapped in sweet, warm merlot fruit. Cabernets and malbec darker tones and tannins add serious notes. Well crafted and well priced. 91/100. Attendees enjoyed the barrel influence. Considered a worthy value.

At Moulon; 80% merlot, 10% each of the cabernets. Deep, dark red violet. Nose a bit reticent. There's good fruit material deep down there. Should improve with aeration. Richer and more flavorful on the palate. Vintage and merlot forward and accommodating in the mouth. This has form, depth, and balance too. And acid and light tannin. Our first 2022 claret is a winner. 91+/100. Widely appreciated; orders taken. 'Ripe, and fine concentration. Primary and juicy.' Good length, good value.' Attendees noted that the tannins won't take long to resolve.

At Targon, Entre Deux Mers; 60% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 5% cab franc on limestone, clay, and gravel; average age of vines: 35 years. Dark ruby. Old vines and merlot richness, cabernet form. Young, and well positioned. Tannins are dominating fruit expression at this stage. Fundamental equilibrium though, so a bargain cellar candidate! 90++/100.

At Lalande de Fronsac; daughter of Mauvais Garcon garagiste Jean-Luc Thunevin; all merlot, vines average 40 years; aged 11 months in barrels, some new. Like father, like daughter. Big, big, big, and powerful. The sort of fruit concentration rarely found at this basic AOC level. Yes, very rich, even sweet. With fine grained tannin foil and good acidity for balance too. Nothing if not generous. Will improve. 91+/100. Attendees recognized this as 'modern' claret but surprised me by how much they appreciated it. 'Real Bordeaux character and well made. Exceeds expectations.' 'Speaks of its Right Bank origins. Good fruit quality, structure, balance.' 'Solid, rustic, not subtle, but no one would confuse this with a California wine.'

Est. 1705; managed and made by La Gaffeliere's team; 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv. Dark red violet. A sweeter merlot nose. And a damn attractive one. Spells merlot. Cabernet tannins lurk in the background. Surprisingly tanniic for vintage and encepagement. So both fruit sweetness and tannins. A good combination for cellar candidate. 91+/100. Well liked by attendeess. 'Quite complex. Should develop very well. Huge bargain.' 'Quality winemaking on the first sniff. Barrel embellishments evident.'

Winegrower at Monsegur, Entre Deux Mers; 30 year old vines; 50% merlot, 25% each of the cabernets. Dark red violet. This is certainly not as 'tough' as the Vieux Manoir. It has an intriguing level of spiciness to it, sans barrel. Decidedly softer tannins on the palate than in the Vieux Manoir, despite having a higher percentage of the cabernets. Another MTS well knit cuvee. Not absent of tannins though, and flavor development to come as well. 91+/100.

By 'bad boy' garagiste pioneer Jean-Luc Thunevin; 95% merlot, 5% cabernet; vineyard planted in 1975; Suckling 92/100. Also very dark red violet; more rim lightening with age. This too is very concentrated and powerful. Less oak, but some is there. Old vines essences. Very large, full bodied, fully extracted. Chewy constitution. The tannins are well managed and 2018 sweet fruit coated. Inspires both awe and steakhouse fare. Boy, anyone who figures merlots are wimpy should try this eye opener. 92+/100.

Personal project of Ronan Laborde of Chateau Clinet, Pomerol; first vintage, 2009; 95% merlot, 5% the cabernets; clay soil. A knowledgeable customer couldn't stop praising this, so I thought we'd better give it a try. Heavy Bottle Award. Say, the nose is worth the hype. Especially at the price. This has barrel augmented sophistication. Yes, material and complexity. Rangy flavors and textures. The whimsical label belies one serious claret. Fine tannin for cellaring. I learn as much from customers as from suppliers. Kudos. 92+/100.

Suckling 94; Dunnuck 93; Parker 92: 'The 2022 L'Esprit de Chevalier Blanc, a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, reveals aromas of spices, pear, peach, menthol and lemon. On the palate, it's fleshy and elegant, with bright acids and a long, saline finish. This is a great effort for a second wine.'

Proprietor Antoine de Roquefeuil; in the family since the Revolution; on the left bank of the Garonne next to the Graves AOC; 75% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon. Very, very fresh and bright Bordeaux sauvignon take. Ripe citrus sauvignon joined to citrus creme semillon. This sails!/ A mouthful of various citrus fruits. Honestly, I've never had a Bordeaux Blanc tasting quite like this one, always an adventure after 61 years in trade. Suits me to a T. 92/100.

Proprietor Herve Dubourdieu; 60% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vines averaging 35 years; unfiltered. Always the Dubourdieu semillon emphasis, always masterfully done. And this smells like one of the best in the series. The fullness, the lemon curd aroma. Sauvignon adds green fruit counter. Very racy, limey palate in cool 2024. Just a picture of sensual entertainment as well as a versatile choice with both seafood and poultry. 92/100.

75% semillon, 20% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vine age 45-48 years; unfiltered. Dubourdieu's the master of semillon. Lemon curd and lemon custard. Plus old vines semillon body. Ho hum, just another winner in this series. Fresh airs of sauvignon hover over the base aroma. Tangy, juicy acidity of cool 2024. Gives relief to a normally denser wine. I'd call it a success. 92+/100. Commentators found less SO2 than usual, revealing 'Lots of Graves flavor' and 'Smells of Graves origins'. 'Nice balance; long and good.' 'Nicely structured, crisp, fresh, refreshing.' 'Best Graville I can remember.'

80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon. Bright sauvignon citricity in a user friendly vintage. And the usual semillon padding. In tune with a successful series. Lasting, refreshing finish. 91/100.

2021: At La Sauve; 50% sauvignon blanc, 20% each sauvignon gris, muscadelle, 10% semillon. Every vintage this supplies a peacock's tail display of its full EdM varietal range. Besides the foundation sauvignon blanc, there's the plumpness of gris and semillon, the green fruit of muscadelle. Yeah, that ying-yang of crisp blanc and muscadelle versus gris and semillon. Exciting for both aromatic and textural spreads. Vigorous as well as complex this vintage. 92/100. Widely enjoyed by the group. Orders taken.

At Saint Loubes, in northern Entre deux Mers bordering the Dordogne across from Fronsac. Closed up nose upon opening. With aeration citricity comes in a Bordeaux sauvignon's sensible rather than exaggerated manner. Understated tangerine and mango flavors mark the palate. Very nice balance, burnished texture, and extended finish carry it along. Ultimately, a winner. 91/100. 'Very easy to drink; a summer day in a glass.'

At Galgon, northwest of Lalande de Pomerol; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon; vines 15 to 35 years old. That's a nice and lemony Bordeaux sauvignon that doesn't go overboard like sauvignons from cooler and warmer vintages. 'Temperate' it is. And semillon lays down a nice and smooth base. Yes, the two in harmony on the palate. Good acidity and that light semillon glycerol. This is my image of classic Bordeaux Blanc. So facile at the table. More substantial than your basic aperitif. 91/100.

70% sauvignon blanc, 30% semillon; barrel fermented and aged 6 months on lees in once used Sauternes barrels. Strong vintage of this. Pungent sauvignon, semillon, lees, and Sauternes barrels inputs all display strong, individual ID. Leading to the definition COMPLEX. Wow. And, they're well integrated. This has developed into one unto its own in the Bordeaux Blanc arena. 92+/100.

2020: Est. 1705; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon; by the winemaker at Chateau La Gaffeliere. More citrusy sauvignon still. Again, the semillon padding. Brisk acid here too. A less shrill, more rounded palate overall. A bit more body. Eminently well balanced. Each begging for a plateau de fruits de mer. 91/100.

At Targon, Entre deux Mers; Veronique Barthe, seventh generation; 60% sauvignon blanc, 30% semillon, 10% muscadelle. Dry and crisp 2024 take. The sauvignon is not cool vintage shrill though. It falls in place. Semillon gives underlying padding and oomph, muscadelle its 'green' elements. Well crafted. More sauvignon citrus cut on the palate. Works all around and is in tune with the series. 91+/100. Widely appreciated. 'Typical of the AOC. Some grass.' 'Striking acidity that food will take up.'

2022: Grower at Rimons, Entre deux Mers; 95% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon; 30 year old vines. Not a sauvignon screamer. The cold sample projects subtle perfumes only. More explicit sauvignon on the palate. Again, restraint is the watchword. Juicy, balanced, meal worthy. Won't compete with what's on the plate. 90+/100. Liked by attendees. 'A nice Bordeaux sauvignon heavy for the table.'

Famille Lesgourgues; sauvignon blanc. A full bodied yet still brisk Bordeaux take on sauvignon. Really penetrates the nostrils. Milder acid than nose and vintage suggest, but adequate for balance and refreshment. Equally full on the palate. Flavorful, but not to the common sauvignon norms. I applaud its singularity. 91/100.

85% sauvignon blanc, 15% semillon; at Saint Genis du Bois; named for the estate's director. Well, that's the sauvignon emphasis. It's fresh and bright, befitting of the vintage. Citrus to the fore. None of the dreaded bell pepper. Vintage lithe, balanced, flexible. An aperitif Bordeaux blanc or seafood choice. 91/100.

Decanter 95: 'Hails from clay/limestone soils at the highest point in the Gironde, in Bordeaux, and it is utterly incredible. It will amaze all who taste it, and it is certainly 2025's finest value French Sauvignon Blanc!'

At Beychac et Caillau; in northern Entre Deux Mers; 65% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon, 15% muscadelle. A conventional Bordeaux blanc cuvee and aromatic range. Despite the cool vintage, the sauvignon is not pronounced and dominant though grapefruit zest is a key characteristic of the wine. Semillon adds fat and muscadelle herbal tones. Further semillon plumpness on the palate. Well composed cuvee and well priced, if not striking to much degree at opening. 91+/100. Certainly became more striking with aeration-into the next day. 'Fairly classy and correct now but will be much better with age or breathing. Confirmed; next day much better. Lovely stuff. With some oak it would be cru class style.' 'Complexity from the three components. Hint of floral aromatics with warming. Inviting.'

Created in 1988 under the tutelage of ace oenologist Denis Dubourdieu. It's pungent but not to excess. No bell pepper, no shrill citrus. It's what Bordeaux blanc should be. Dubourdieu was an expert. Yes, the citrus tones are more toward tangelo than lemon. Good acid of course. Many tabletop choices. Suits me to a tee. 91/100.

Wine Spectator 95: 'Ripe, unctuous and deliciously rendered, this pumps out orange blossom, peach, apricot and pineapple upside-down cake notes that are seamlessly stitched with bitter almond and orange threads. Offers a long, seductively glazed finish. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Drink now through 2045.'

Second wine of one of the top unclassified Chateaux; 97% semillon, 3% sauvignon blanc. Aged 16 months in barrels, 20% new. Richly colored. Almond and marzipan botrytised semillon nose. Honey and pineapple chime in. Add other nuts on the palate, hazelnut in particular. Good sweet-acid balance. This is already a smell and taste adventure. Think about it a few years down the road. Exemplary second wine. Sweet and savory finale aided by barrel contributions. 94+/100.

Suckling 96; Dunnuck 96; Martin 94; Galloni 94; Wine Spectator 94: 'Juicy and fresh, with a mix of delightfully ripe peach and yellow apple fruit that plays nicely with honeysuckle, ginger and jasmine through the finish. Exotic in bent, with lovely energy. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2040.'

At Preignac; old vines; 95% semillon, 5% sauvignon blanc; owned by a former part owner of Chateau Suduiraut. Wow, syrupy sweet aromatic concentration. Honey dipped pineapple slices. Impressive, pollen like botrytis display too. Yikes! Even though just shipped, there's nothing awkward about the nose. Palate equally saturated in flavors and feels. I mean, this is INTENSE. The acid is still coated; still, there's inherent harmony to its overall makeup, which promises a long and fruitful life. 95+/100. Easily WOTN. Many orders taken. 'Classic Sauternes! Wow!' 'Wow - just wow! Superb nose and palate. Has it all. Cru Classe quality.' 'Oh yeah! Grapefruit, pineapple, botrytis honey. Acid to match the sweetness. Explosively rich fresh walnut, fruit cake. Beyond a doubt.'

2022: 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv; clay, limestone, flint, and boulbene soils. Brian mistakenly chilled this (though I suggested a couple of weeks back that the 2020 could be served cool). So maybe no harm. Yes, this still works, though the cool temperature suppresses the fruit aroma somewhat. Juicy, fruity, and simply delicious at this temperature. Indeed, this works on the palate. Though it accents the tannin a little. Attendees called the 2020 a Beaujolais like Bordeaux. Apt description here too. 91/100.

40 year old vines on the high terraces; native yeasts; aged two years in large, seasoned cooperage. Malbec red black color, especially deep for the cool vintage and age. Cool vintage lift as well as the usual black concentration of this Cahors torchbearer. Boy, that runs deep and dense for the vintage, but not without vintage raciness. Tannins present and fine grained. Great 2021 acid. This will age nicely. 92+/100.

Est. 1895; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; 25 year old vines. Cahors black. Inky concentration, more so than several vintages of late. Impressive Cahors black core. Lots of licorice. The palate too is well condensed. There's a degree of fruit sweetness and flow too thanks to the merlot. Solid Cahors citizen and credit to the series. 91+/100. After aeration, it became 'Brighter, richer, more fruit friendly than expected. Black cherry, black tea.' However, a few attendees picked up a fishy smell. So one of them took the bottle home to check it out the next day. 'The fish swam away. Big, juicy plum and boysenberry atop of anise, Asian spice, pine forest, and sweet tannins, backed by moderate acidity. Big mouthfeel without being clumsy or overpowering.'

Est. 1968 by Odile Delpon, three years before Cahors was awarded AOC; her son, Didier Pelvaillain, presently presides over the domaine; all malbec; 32 year old vines; native yeasts. Black wine indeed. Softer and mellower than its appearance would suggest. Good vintage here. Plush, not obdurate. Very fruity nose and palate. Mary's touch of elegance. More ease than the 2020 showed. Bravo. 92/100.

All malbec. 2020 and malbec black fruit solidity. Poised. Yes, full varietal clarity. Good body, balance, texture. Tannin still for aging potential. 91+/100.

2018: Est. 1450; all malbec; 40-120 year old vines on the second and third terraces above the Lot. Black Cahors color. 2018 sweet and forward. This cuvee is designed to drink sooner than the other, more expensive Jouffreaus. This is at an ideal stage. The fruit remains sweetly expressive, and age is bringing on desirable maturity. Well balanced. Long. Flavorful. Attractive now, for sure. Will cellar mid term too. 92/100. Enjoyed for its typicity and drinkability.

85% malbec, 15% merlot. The softness of merlot and five years' maturity factor in. Good acid and 2020 form. Plenty of aging potential. Glad to see this source back in the market. 91+/100.

All malbec; from the highest gravel-clay terraces above the Lot. Purple passion color. The freshest form of Cahors malbec you'll find, and the easiest going. Sweet-tart cherry taste. Doesn't seem carbonic, just fruit-juicy good. Cool vintage seems to enhance this Vigouroux cuvee's attractions. 91/100.

2018: Weighty Cahors malbec with some 2018 forward ideas. Flavorful. Abundant black cherry and tar malbec flavors, 2018 plush and yielding. Good acid. An attractive addition to the VC range. 92/100.

Wine Enthusiast 91/100. My notes: All tannat. And the dark color spells it. Wow, that's a dark, sweet, and meaty tannat. Delivers concentration without accompanying toughness. Bravo. Again, the tannins are fine, non-aggressive. Amplitude and balance. Deal. 91/100.

50% colombard, 25% each ugni blanc, gros manseng. Performs the usual variety presentation of colombard green fruit, ugni briskness, and manseng rich underlayment. Nice and forceful aromatics this vintage, as well as the vintage coolness. Logical all the way. Agreeable force and agreement of varietal talk on the palate too. Despite the cool vintage, this rises up to become one the most generous in the series. Bravo. 92/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Hints of floral tones; green herbal palate.' 'Striking acidity; almost limey.'

2021: Olivier Gessler, vigneron at Panjas; 50% colombard, 30% ugni blanc, 15% gros manseng, 5% sauvignon blanc. Clean and crisp, with green colombard and ugni leading the way. Sense of manseng plumpness behind. Palate more aromatic, the manseng and sauvignon throwing in more support. Deliciously well balanced. Both cut and light padding. Better than the 2020. Better acid. 91/100.

50 ? 50. A green fruit combo that leans more toward the colombard half than the sauvignon. Though sauvignon grapefruit lurks. Impressively aromatic and faithful. Good acidity throughout, and no tartness. There's a smoothness to the texture. Refreshing and well balanced. Many aperitif and table apps. Never had a disappointment here. 91/100.

Est. by Famille Duffour in 1955 in northern Gascogne; 80% colombard, 20% gros manseng. Pleasing dryness and 'darkness' to these 2024 Euro whites so far. Can't think of a previous vintage yet for comparison. Nothing recent. A clear display of colombard green fruit tempered by manseng ripe yellow fruit. Another best buy in the series, each different. Flavors coincide with aromas and work together well. The acid is ripe--not green for colombard. Easy to drink, especially this time of year. 91/100. Well liked by attendees for both quality and value. Orders taken. 'Very attractive nose. Gros manseng shows through and makes this a very nice wine. Flavorful and interesting.' 'Clean, fresh, green in a pleasant way. Palate more concentrated and smoother than expected. Easy to like and enjoy.'

Gros manseng and sauvignon blanc. Subtle soft peachy scent of gros manseng countered by sauvignon citrus cut. Well assembled encepagement as usual. Again, plush meets tangy. Some baby fat to lose. The acid is still coated and the flavors unfulfilled. I have confidence..as well as case buyers of this. 91+/100. Enjoyed by attendees. 'Quite pleasant!' 'Peach tea.' 'Lovely fruit; easy drinking.'

Muscadet winemaker; Loire pinot noir and gamay. Spot on combo revealing of both varieties. Pinot soft, velvety fullness. Gamay bright, vigorous race. In harmony. Most forthcoming. Yes, both the soft pinot padding and the gamay lift. Balance of ripe fruit and fruit acidity. Long and delicious aftertaste. Fine craftsmanship. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees as a summer red.

2024: By a Sancerre winegrower; former vintage labelled 'Vin de Loire'. That's sweet and pure, northern pinot noir. Nothing Oc about it. Yes, cool and racy with plenty of acid this vintage. Good substance as well. Emulates Sancerre rouge. 91/100.

55 year old cabernet franc vines; aged in amphorae. Hearty red violet color. Freshness of Loire cab franc, sweet ripeness of the vintage, as well as its substance. Confident, comfortable poise. Body, acid, tannin, and ageworthiness well beyond the more approachable 2018. This is 2020. Old vines concentration. All makes sense. All requests another year or two in the cellar. 92+/100. 'Really good and typical; just what it should be.' 'Dark, ripe cherry and raspberry; excellent cabernet franc; meaty, beefy; red wine of the night.'

2022: 31 year old vines in silty sand over limestone. Oh, boy, is this big, generous, and forthcoming this vintage. Ripe and concentrated Loire cab franc red raspberry. No greenery. Yes, luxuriously padded and smooth on the palate. No shortage of acid for balance. Flavorful finish goes on and one. This one's ready to take to the table. 92/100. Wine of the Night for many attendees. Orders taken.

Cooperative est. 1957 by 40 winegrowers. Brisk, cool, and fresh Loire cab franc. Spot on. Nose develops surprising ripeness and roundness for a cool vintage. Good 2021 acidity of course. Not tart though. Like the nose, the palate spells a handsome degree of ripeness. All is right with this Saumur rouge. 91/100. Widely liked by attendees for good ripeness, lack of vegetal aspects, present drinkability, and, especially, price.

Family domaine for many generations; vineyards on gravel; Silver Medal ? Paris 2024; Wine Enthusiast 92/100. Our notes: Dark ruby. Wow, dramatic surge of red raspberry cab franc character. Comes right at ya. Rich in substance too. Sweet cab franc raspberry on the palate as well. This is fairly loaded thanks to the intensity, but it does feature good AOC flow too. Long, flavorful aftertaste. Attractive price included. I'm sold. Must stock. 92+/100. Widely popular with attendees. 'Ripe enough, plenty of fruit, perfume, good color, some tannins; nice wine.' 'Firm tannins, cab franc nose. Great structure and body. Might benefit from some aging. Great cab franc example and not overpriced!'

Nice ripe red raspberry Loire cabernet franc aroma. Spicy savor and lift. Yes, this is ripe and fruity Bourgueil. Sweet fruit always marks this cuvee. 91/100.

Despite the variety of ages and origins, these are all dark maroon in color. One of the fullest vintages of this cuvee I've nosed. Impressive. Sports gravel borne elegance too. Yes, impressive body, dry extract, flavor and texture intensity. Must add to the Chinon range. 92+/100.

Vigneron Eric Santier, who purchased Saut au Loup from Laure Dozon in 2014; 40-60 year old vines on the Left Bank of the Vienne. Medium dark ruby. The most personality of the reds so far. One dark and hearty Loire cab franc with complexity earned at age three. Yes, flavor and texture, weight and volume thanks to old vines. Always one the Chinon big boys. More to come, but plenty to offer at the table now. Not a summer red. 92+/100. Widely considered WOTN. 'Grippy tannins, solid structure along with varietal aroma.' 'Very serious cab franc. Needs time. Lots of wine here that should develop nicely.' 'Dense and dark cab franc. Old vines for sure. So solid! Fine balance, long finish.' 'Heavier than most Chinons, meaning lots of depth. Tannins are good. I would lay this bad boy down for at least 2-3 years, if not 5.'

2017: Vineyard on clay and limestone. Rather close and tart to start, but true to its cherry-suggestive name. Nose sweetens up with aeration. Dry and tannic on entry. Fruit character and padding come on. Good ager. 91+/100.

2020: On clay-limestone in southwest Chinon, bordering Saumur Champigny. Wow, that's a full and pungent Chinon cab franc! Red raspberry, bramble, and leafy pepperiness. The palate is equally full and expressive. Well textured. Tannin level requests more bottle age. It will be rewarded. 93+/100.

2023: Est. 1976; historic cellars beneath the fortress of Chinon; 35 year old vines on gravel. Rich, warm, ripe raspberry and spicy seed peppercorn aromas. A lush vintage of this, while retaining a cool Loire cab franc aura. Just as rich and generous on the palate. The cool disposition remains. Little or no tannin, so it could be cooled down further. 92/100. Met with attendee approval. 'A wine of immediate charm and usefulness.' 'Nice, as always.' 'Loire cab franc typicity.' 'Pull out the charcuterie or roast a chicken.'

2021: Est. 1693; from sandy alluvial soil near the Vienne. Bright red violet. Fresh and cool. Reserved. Core of ripe fruit sweetness. Good 2021 acidity. Plenty of material; good grip. Flavors coming on now. Balanced and mealworthy. Age a few more weeks to months for additional aromatic range and depth. 91+/100. Or hours. Many attendee positive comments on its varietal character two hours later, such as 'screams cab franc', 'classic cab franc'. and 'lovely, long cab franc finish'. Attendees found both fruit ripeness and vintage acidity, in harmony.

Est. 1898; vines 10 - 20 years old. Pleasant, fresh, cool, tart fruited northern pinot noir that speaks of varietal and terroir. Engaging, soft sweetness of 2023. Mmm, sweet smelling pinot, especially for Loire. Come hither/ Great acidity demands food. The nose hid that pretty well. In the back, the long, flavorful aftertaste returns to softer, sweeter impressions. Suave and gentle on the approach. Acids and tannins build thereafter. Long, flavorful aftertaste. Overall balance and meal worthiness. Spot on. 91/100

4th generation estate; 30 year old vines; 8 days' carbonic maceration. Intense, in your face gamay. Cranberry, raspberry, cherry. Yeah, about the most explicit in the series. Really concentrated for Loire gamay. No tannin. Cool it down for refreshment, and maybe to tune down its exuberance a little too. 92/100. Widely enjoyed by attendees. 'Real structure and concentration.' 'Good purity of fruit and good ripeness.' 'Should be better chilled.'

35% each gamay, cot (malbec), 30% pinot noir; on flint (silex); native yeasts. Third vintage we've had of this and the freshest yet. Gamay lift combines with dark malbec underlayment and pinot's soft and sweet notes. A very refreshing measure of acidity often found in Valencay but not always in 2022. Varietal feels and flavors meld together well. Light dusting of tannin at the end. 91+/100. Attendee remarks and enthusiasm generally paralleled mine. One reviewer got a tobacco note on the finish. The remains were enjoyed later with grilled salmon.

2015: Deep, dark, and intense with 2015 ripeness and concentration. Yes, really meaty for Loire pinot noir. Thanks to the vintage. Even some tannin. 91+/100.

2017: Its own thing, and I think a lot of that has to do with barrel aging. Most Sancerre rouge I see is first year, at most two or three years old. And not barrel aged. Decidedly more revealing than previous vintages tasted, some of them bearish by nature. Very cedary-spicy. Full bodied and textured. Clearly barrel influenced. A very, very exciting take. We can sell a lot of this. Brian is crazy about it. 93+/100.

Daulny has 40 acres in 50 parcels, including some of the AOC's top sites, such as Monts Damnes; vines average 40 years. Medium red. Color depth belies its richness on the nose. Cool, tart red fruit of northern pinot. Nice rich and round fruit on the palate too, with plenty of up to snuff acidity. Well balanced and flavorful. Steady winner. 91/100. Attendee comments were generally favorable. 'Dense black cherry aroma.' 'Pleasantly tart northern pinot.'

Muscadet winemaker; Loire sauvignon blanc and melon. Smells mainly of melon (muscadet), which is surprising, since sauvignon has a much more forceful aromatic profile. It's there, admirably subtle as well as supportive. A bit more sauvignon to the fore on the palate, but it doesn't steal the scene. Richness and softness of the vintage. This guy is quite the winemaker. 91/100.

Lieu dit Les Loges; at Monnieres in the Loire Atlantique department near the mouth of the river. Another surprise. Cooler vintage than the 2023 tasted recently, but seemingly fuller and more varietally expressive on the nose. And the palate seems richer too. Albeit, this is a nice and racy, Loire Maritime take on chardonnay. One of my favorite vintages in a consistently reliable series. 91/100. Also enjoyed by attendees. 'Very likable, easy drinker; great acid.' 'Distinct expression of chardonnay; Maritime acidity.'

2021: 4 generation estate; gneiss and granite subsoil; 15-35 year old vines; 7 months on lees with regular stirring. Crisp and jaunty 2021 take on Auriere. Always the classic styling that makes it one of the best values in its field--or in the entire dry white wine field for that matter. Great texture really balloons it up on the palate. The flavors buoy it up too. Vintage and appellation acidity and the always tender core of the variety. Classic. 91/100. Attendees were excited about this one. Auriere is a perennial group favorite and best buy.

2022: Nice sur lie cling gives relief to the vintage's tendency toward softness. This works. And so it is on the palate too. So well balanced and characteristic. 91/100.

Est. 1915 at Maisdon sur Loire; single parcel of vines averaging 38 years. This has oomph, depth, classicism. Always good, this is one of the best from here I've sniffed. Good 2024 acidity but not marked. Muscadet always has a softer core than what shows superficially at first. Lasting, textured finish. A great introduction to Muscadet. 92/100. This earned kudos all around. 'Very rich body and flavor. Long. Lots of wine here.' 'Wow! One of the best Muscadets ever..so different. Effervescence, fruit, minerality, crisp.' 'Chablis like.' 'Clean, minerals, nice texture. Well done. Probably my wine of the night.'

Gabbro soil. Gabbro is old, blueish-green, igneous rock, rarely found in vineyard land; vines 4-65 years old; yields of 2 tons per acre. Stamina, size, and underlying terroir all clear. Oh, boy, this just builds and fills. Yes, full of minerality as well as lees complexity. One loaded Muscadet, usually is. I have no fear of older vintages of Muscadet. Their age-worthiness is widely underestimated. 92+/100.

11.5%; 4th generation; domaine bottling since 2005; lieu dit La Butte; on serpentine and quartz; 50 year old vines. A screwcap free evening! Wow, that soars with cool, green and yellow fruit aromatics. Comes right at ya. Oodles of personality. The extra body and fruit push of a Grandlieu Muscadet. Aromatic breadth and depth. Spot on. Mouthfilling flavor and texture. Better acidity than it showed a couple of months back. Well balanced. Welcome clinging finish. 93/100.

11.5%; granite parcel at La Butte; 20-60 year old vines. Not as buxom and forthcoming. More minerally. Nice tete a tete. A little bigger boost of acidity, and that minerality adding to the texture and dryness. More of a keeper. 92+/100.

70 acre, 5 generation family estate of 70 acres at Monnieres on slopes above the Sevre. Here my young to old order fails; this wine is buried by the previous two. True to AOC; still, understated upon opening. More character to the palate. More flavor. And a lovely textural aspect and ideal sweet/acid balance not always achieved in 2022. People pleasing and very versatile at the table. Classic small green botanicals on the finish. Deal! 91/100. Much liked. Aired well. 'Standup Muscadet; the real deal; really pleasant.' 'Bargain City.'

On sand over granite; 'hommee' is an 18th century term for the acreage a vineyard worker could cover in a day; from a particular parcel on the Chauviniere estate. Well, this is bigger and more ageworthy. Special terroir indeed. Close to the extra presence of a cru Muscadet. Yes. Oh, and even closer to cru in the mouth. Weight, flavor, texture all in spades. Well balanced too. As much as I like the above, this is worth the moderate premium.92+/100. Attendees agreed. 'Even better in all regards. This is good or better than any I've had.' Case orders taken

A very fresh, clear vision of muscadet with growing aromatics as it warms. Cool green streak through it and some of the notions of tenderness of the vintage. Good mineral cling on entry. Green acidity, that vintage padding. This is real entertainment, as well as a refreshing quaff. 91/100. Continued to gain in aromatic interest as it aired.

12 acres at Le Loroux-Bottereau on amphibolite, metagabbro, and serpentinite soils; 20 year old vines; native yeasts; aged 8-12 months on lees in cisterns, lees stirred 2-3 times. Whoa, is that ever a stony expression! Wet stones all the way. Plus the little green botanicals classic to Muscadet. And ventilating hyssop overtones. 2022 softness up front encounters correct acidity for balance as it flows across the tongue. Great transparency to this, as to all the Mary Taylor directed cuvees. 92/100.

Fourth generation; from a Clos in the cru Chateau Thebaud; 55+ year old vines; native yeasts. Stony; decidedly granite based. More about terroir than sur lie, and that's impressive. There's fruit too. That tender fruit center to fine Muscadet that alleviates its innate austerity. This is one class Muscadet, and I avow it will age famously. 93/100. A group favorite. 'Huge flavor, distinctive, special.' 'Certainly the richest, most flavorful muscadet I've had.' 'Penetrating, full of terroir.' ' Palate weight, splendid richness and minerality; superior acidity.'

19th century roots; vineyards on sandy gravel over granite and schist; vines 25-60 years old. Sympathetic with the series, if not as forthcoming as some years. Warming and aeration will help. Even the whites seem extra cool today. Yeah, still a little reserved, especially for 2023. I wonder if the label and name change might also involve a tweaking of the style. More evident on the palate than the nose. 91+/100. After warming and aerating further, attendees found greater favor with this. 'Very Muscadet and quite richly flavored and long.' 'Subtle, delicate but proper and mineral driven.' 'Good acidity.' More textured than many a recently tasted Muscadet.'

Cooperative of only 10 member families, all within Le Pallet, one of the AOC's seven Crus. Riper, softer, and more abundant than the well liked 2021. Retains its Muscadet raciness though. Yes, that classic Muscadet up front clean cut and the softer, more forgiving core. Well balanced and price worthy rep. Surprising Thanksgiving choice..until you put it to work. 91/100. Described by attendees as ample and creamy textured.

Vignoble Gilbert Chon; at Vertou, overlooking the Sevre; unfined, unfiltered. I think Chon likes a cool vintage. This is the brightest and crispest Salmoniere has ever tasted. Impressive. Has form and body too. And depth of green botanicals flavors. Yes, a champion vintage of this. 91/100. Attendees liked this, finding the nose fruity, the palate crisp, keen, and mineraly. Several suggested mussels or oysters.

At La Haye-Fouassiere; highest site of the commune, 35 year old vines on quartz sand over gneiss. This has 2020 solidity and depth. Definite terroir and mature vines statements too. Absolutely zero grey hairs. Yes, big time site, terroir, and vintage bulk in terms of Muscadet. Good balance and length. Wow, what a substantial Muscadet..and deal! 92+/100.

Est. 1948 at La Haye-Fouassiere; 2 acre walled vineyard, crown jewel of the estate; replanted in 1983; aged 2 years on lees and 5 years minimum in bottle before release; unfined. Heavy Bottle Award. Oh, my goodness! Such lees and extract nostril and sinus saturation! Yikes!/ Just as old vines and metamorphic soil concentration on the palate. Endless finish. Thanks to the winemaker's patience, it's good drinking today. Still, it will probably outlive me. 94+/100.

Est. 1820; chenin blanc; sandy-clay soil. Beautiful Anjou chenin blanc expression. Pear, quince, lime, melon--has it all. In youth, best and most forward nose yet in this series. Bravo. Flavors less forthcoming, yet the ID is clear. Good sweet-acid fruit balance in a fully dry chenin. Great price for all this! 92+/100.

Sourced from vineyards that fall exactly along the border of the two sub-regions of Anjou. Fourth-generation winemaker Pascal Biotteau comes from the village of Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets, situated on the old Roman road from Angers to Poitiers. The western zone lies on limestone, the eastern on dark volcanic schist. Combines the freshness of the former with the fullness of the latter. Ripe melon and suggestions of honey and apricot. Dry, with good acidity for this mild vintage. Quince and lime chime in on the finish. 91/100.

2021: Chenin blancs averaging 35 years; named for the vineyard site on the property. Sulphur suppresses some of its aromatic attributes upon opening. Underlying quince and mineral qualities. Great 2021 acid and an attractive degree of both fruit ripeness and extract filling and balancing it out. Yes, flavorful and lengthy. The palate spells greatness. The nose wants air and age for fulfillment. 92+/100.

Est. 1996; single vineyard; 40 year old vines on clay and limestone. Plenty of quince and lime Saumur chenin personality. Combo of richness and briskness. What I'm looking for here. Plusher than the laser-like 2021 of course. Still, the acidity is not the least bit wanting, and the rich varietal and terroir feels and flavors offer extra amplitude. A balanced and delicious vintage of this. 92/100. Later, at the tasting, it showed more terroir than fruit at first. The fruit emerged with further aeration, earning it attendee compliments for its overall presentation.

Chenin blanc vineyard on southwest facing slopes near the village of Meron. Lovely, soft, forward 23 chenin nose makes all the sense in the world. Melon, lime, quince. Round and tart at once. Balanced. Flavors confirm aromas if less intense. One of the better vintages of this old reliable. 91/100. Appreciated by attendees for both its varietal accuracy and bargain price.

Small AOC (160 acres) on the Loir tributary of the Loire, northernmost and coolest of the Loire basin; this parcel on flint soil (silex); 35-40 year old vines. Man, that's about as racy as chenin blanc gets. Sure sign of this terroir. Brisk and bracing nose. A measure of 2023 tenderness to the palate. I expected higher acidity from the nose. Maybe it's just coated in youth. Unique flavor set for chenin. Not the usual quince-melon-lime. Pleases all the same. 92/100. Popular with attendees. 'Very dry. Fruit comes out later.' 'Softer than some, but great extract, decent acid, bit of astringent notes.' 'Citrus and melon nose. Full palate. Unique flavors and fine persistence. Touches of honey and herb tones. Well balanced.'

Nice, light quince and lime Vouvray chenin aromas. It's cool rather than cold on the palate and perhaps more flavorful for it at opening. Good acid to balance the light sweetness. Well priced Vouvray. 91+/100. This came forth well. Very popular; WOTN for at least one attendee. 'Quince flavor, tonic minerality.' Real chenin, real Vouvray!' Very long and balanced.' 'Good example of Vouvray and enjoyable; good acid, light sweetness.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'This wine has a fresh nose of golden-apple slice, white peach, papaya, orange zest and green table grapes. A dry, energetic midpalate opens into lemon citrus and green plum with hints of grapefruit. The wine is bustling with lively acidity that would complement fish, calamari and anything buttered. $23.'

2020: 30-60 year old vines; indigenous yeasts. Quieter, as expected. I put it in this order expecting a little sweetness. Nose is dry. Quince and lime well up as it warms in the mouth. It's pretty damn near dry. There's a forgiving softness to it. Good acid. Good extract. Versatile at the table. Good vintage of this. Bound to give more as it warms and airs. And it did; though the group too noted that it will yield even more as the months pass. 92+/100.

Est. 1984; 35 year old vines on clay and limestone; indigenous yeasts; aged 11 months on lees; labeled Sec for the first time. They keep getting drier year after year, and now it's spelled out. While dry smelling, upon opening this is premature due to youth or shipping. Suggestions of quince, lime, and green melon.merely hints at this stage. Has it all together though. And at this stage, the acid is somewhat coated and the flavor spectrum and intensity limited. The long and balanced aftertaste presages a fine vintage of this. 92+/100. This opened up more with aeration. 'Really rich and glycerined; doesn't seem too young.' 'Crisp and clean; balanced.' 'Mighty approachable.'

Est. 1953; caves carved in soft tuff of the river banks. Shy at first. Then begins to reveal classic aromas of quince, lime, and calcaire. Off to a good start. Sec to Sec tendre. Flavors confirm aromas. Fine acid. Lots of textural spiel. Perfect balance. Fills the bill. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'For a demi-sec, this leans toward the dry, savory end of the spectrum. There are a lot of layers and substance to this, with a savory thread of green herbs and bitter white tea weaving through elderflower, quince and apple flavors, while gentle tannins provide a solid frame. Cool river stone and pink peppercorn notes line the finish, encased in smoke and salt, with length and a lot of depth. The toasty cedar notes will integrate with more time in bottle. Drink now through 2037.'

Grapes from Chateau de Valmer; demi sec. In tune with the series: mild, accurate, pleasant, well priced. Demi sec sweetness well balanced by cool vintage acidity. Quince, melon, and lime flavors. Nothing awesome about it, but what's not to like? Aperitif, fruit cocktail companion, and probably several sweeter seafood and poultry preps. Sushi included. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees, whose comments jibed with mine. 'Very Vouvray, with nice fruit and balance.' 'Quince, mineral, acid. Pleasantly demi sec and useful.'

2021: Tuffeau, clay, and flint soils; 30-40 year old vines; previous vintages Domaine Vigneau-Cheveau; probably had to purchase some neighbors' grapes in short-crop 2021. Good quince and melon nose of chenin. No signs of botrytis in a sec rendition in a cold vintage. Well, the acid is great of course. And not only that, there's lots of extract adding texture. This is certainly a fine dinner Vouvray. I'm thinking quenelles de brochet. 92/100. This sleeper turned into a group favorite. Orders taken.

Tasting Panel 92: 'White florals meet fresh Provencal herbs with a hint of grass on the nose before elegant and lithe flavors of apricot, fresh peach, and melon capere nimbly on the palate. This wine is a paragon of delicate freshness with no shortage of personality. $16.'

On the right bank of the Cher. Incredibly engaging and agreeable sauvignon. Citrus range, with tangelo emphasis. Light and lively. Zingy citrus flavors. Best this has ever tasted. Come hither: one glass invites another. 92/100.

Vigneron with cellars at Verdigny; 30 year old vines; on flint and sand hillsides. This Reverdy set gets a Heavy Bottle Award. Reads old vines size and concentration, terroir specificity and levity, aromatic depth, nostril feel, and impressive presence for the alcohol content and price. And that's just the nose. A unique take on the region's sauvignons, unrelated to any other I've tasted over the decades. And I like it. Good content for food. I always like a new experience. 92/100. Drew praise from attendees for its lift and distinction.

From 24 year old vines along the Cher tributary of the Loire 70 miles west of Sancerre. Surprising diversity of corks over this trio. Well, that is a really good, shrill, cutting sort of sauvignon nose. Unique indeed. I like it. Boy, just as expressive and incisive on the palate. No chardonnay divergence from pure sauvignon vigor. Well textured and long and juicy. I applaud this effort! 92/100.

Est. 1898; from 24 year old vines; 85% sauvignon blanc, 15% chardonnay. At 85% it can be labeled 'Sauvignon Blanc'. Dazzles. Incisive Loire sauvignon in 2024. All kinds of citrus things. The chardonnay adds textural breadth and depth. Pointed sauvignon aromatic citricity to the fore, the chardonnay playing a strong role in the textural aspects. Boy, this guy knows what he's doing! 92/100. Attendees noted that chardonnay added more richness and length.

From 10-65 year old vines; 85% sauvignon blanc, 15% chardonnay. Well, here's the kingpin, and, true to form, it's less forward. But clearly fuller bodied. As it warms and airs, both varieties' contributions ease forth, in harmony. Yeah, this simply isn't as ready for prime time as the previous two Delaille wines. Its sense of presence both in the nose and on the palate set it apart and earn a premium. Postpone gratification. 91+/100. Attendees judged this the best of the trio.

Vines average 30 years. Yow! Thanks a cool vintage, a sauvignon screamer. Pungent citrus aroma and plenty of cut. Very tangy, citric palate. Broad and flavorful too. Good sweet/acid balance. Hits the spot. 92/100.

A fresh and lithe take on Touraine sauvignon in the 2023 vernacular. Dazzling citrus cut with soft tropical fruit padding. That 2023 plump/acid balance. Thoroughly delicious right through the finish. 91/100.

On the east bank of the Cher near Chateau de Chenonceau. Pointed and piercing passion fruit aroma. And flavor. Unique and attractive sauvignon take. 92/100. Liked by all attendees. 'Very sauvignon; aggressive, and long.'

2021: Slightly brassy - surprise. Some sauvignon gris present-/ Pungent, penetrating gooseberry and Med herb. Unique. Exceeds mere citrus. This is wild. 92/100.

4th generation estate on the south bank of the Cher. OK, here starts the sauvignon subset. With a bang! Geez, this is racy, cool, nostril etching and penetrating sauvignon. Juicy palate. Sweet fruit joins its inherent citricity. Just a lovely take of specific terroir character. 91/100. Widely liked and considered a good value by attendees. Aromas of peach, grapefruit, bell pepper, and cat pee noted. 'Forward and refreshing; ready for summer use.' 'Should be super popular.'

From chalky, flinty soils along the Cher. A bit understated while cold and just opened. Remains so on the palate. Well constituted, balanced, composed. Full texture. Just needs air and warmth to coax the aromatics forth. Take it away, group. 91+/100. Aeration opened it up. Positive comments like 'Sweet lemon tonic nose.' Quite fruit driven, fresh, good acid.' 'So inviting and quaffable.'

2021: Est. 1995; cellar at Bue; 23 parcels in Sancerre and Quincy; chalky limestone, sandy loam, gravelly loam. Well, that's a unique and intriguing sauvignon blanc from its alleged birthplace. It's slightly richer and rounder than Portier's Quincy and certainly distinct from those of other Loire Region de Sauvignon AOCs. More orange than yellow or green peeled citrus. Gooseberry too. Yes, this is softer on the approach than Portier's, while portraying plenty of 2021 acid race. Come hither. Its own thing. 92/100. Well liked by attendees.

Winegrowers since the 17th century; based in Menetou-Salon, with 60 acres there and in Sancerre and Pouilly Fume; Kimmeridgian limestone; aged 6 months on lees. Unique Menetou take on sauvignon blanc. Not as shrill as Quincy, not as rich as Pouilly Fume, and more minerally than Sancerre. Sits just right. The AOC is so clear and cool in its green citrus character. Well balanced; just the right level of acidity. 92/100. 'Lovely minerality! Long lemony finish.'

On limestone and clay soils. I don't like to use the descriptor 'clean', but my first impression here is clean white linen. Not just 'wholesome clean' but exciting clean. Flavors equally 'clean'. Geez, this is so bright and enticing in approach, that it denotes a special form of Sancerre I hadn't recognized before in Auchere's wines. Its own thing, and all the more power to it. 92+/100. Liked by attendees. 'Very bistro style.' 'Primary; grapeskins, lime.' 'Real cut. Is this what they call nervous-'

At Sury en Vaux; 50% clay-limestone, 30% stony limestone, 20% flint; vines average 25 years. Very popular with attendees, even a Wine of the Evening candidate. 'Lovely nose and real Sancerre flavor. At once rich and subtle.' 'Stony nose, and the palate follows nicely. Better structure and acidity than some of the 2023 Sancerres recently tasted. 'All around good.' 92/100.

2020: This sizzles! Vibrant, alive, penetrating, persistent citrus and herb melange. The palate too is alive with flavor and acid tingle. Very long finish. And the price hasn't gone through the roof like a lot of Sancerres. Must have arrived after the tariff was lifted. I'm completely taken with this. 93/100.

Generations old estate at Bue. Mmm, that subtle and sophisticated sauvignon approach that is the mark of this domaine's Sancerre blanc. There's a cool vintage keenness and clarity woven into the fabric. Surprisingly full and rich textured for 2024, though the acidity is plenty brisk. Balanced, flavorful, lasting. This fits the domaine's Sancerre blanc mold. And the price is reasonable these days. 93/100. Widely liked by attendees; got at least one WOTN vote. 'Smells like Sancerre.' 'Notes of terroir with citrus tones, notably white grapefruit.' 'Not a grassy sauvignon.'

15 hectares spread over 50 plots; 40 year old vines; from a diversity of AOC soil types; small percentage aged in seasoned cooperage. Oh, boy, more-ish, as to be expected. The race, the coolness of 2024. Old vines depth and intensity even in Daulny's foundation cuvee. Sweet and juicy both, with plenty of textural spiel and even lift. Great flavor persistence, length. Tangy finish. One of the most intriguing vintages of this. 93+/100.

From selected parcels on south facing slopes in Verdigny. Certainly fuller than the regular cuvee 24 tasted recently, good as that was. Boy, this has oomph, reserve concentration. And 24 freshness. Oh, yes, decidedly fuller on the palate too. Juicy citrus flairs. This nicely combines 2024 and reserve concepts. Love it. Fresh and bright finish. 94+/100. Very popular with attendees; considered superior to the 'regular' cuvee (and not that much difference in price). 'Rich flavor, glycerined mouthfeel; great acid.' ' Mouthwatering.' 'A winner.'

40 year old vines above the winery at Verdigny; 20% aged in seasoned puncheons. Much more subtle sauvignon statement. Greater concentration thanks to old vines. This is pretty special; one of the best in the Chaudenay series. Rich and concentrated for 2024 but not without vintage lift. Suits the series, and the vintage. 17.4+. WOTN candidate. 'Very attractive.' 'Super acid and concentration.' 'Very long.' 'As good or better than the Reserve-'

2022: Hints of gunflint, silex, grapefruit. Pleasing enough, and 2022 round and fruity. More flavor coming forth as it warms in the mouth. Yes, perfectly pleasant, well balanced, and ready to drink. Some plumpness but a solid acidity too. Well enough priced these days. 91/100.

At Bois l'Abbaye - Bue; 35-40 year old vines on the slopes Grand Chemarin, Petit Chemarin, Chene Marchand. Some sulphur gauze at opening. The fruit and primo terroir surface after aeration. A lot of class here, as well as old vines intensity. Flavorful. 2023 richness countered by better acidity than in the 2022. More-ish all around. Tangy, lingering aftertaste too. Bound to please attendees after further aeration. 93+/100. Sulphur abated and gunflint emerged. White Wine of the Night. Richness-acidity balance confirmed. Orders taken.

25+ year old vines on caillottes at Chavignol; aged 8 months on lees. There's that 2024 Euro white picture once again. It's minerally, compact, cool, and dark fruited. Quite a contrast from the 2023 Gueneau, yet clearly the work of the same winegrower. Discreet. The terroir and winemaker themes form a flinty basis. It will be treat to watch this go and grow over the coming months. Though it can be taken to the table now for its harmony, I suspect there's a larger aromatic display on the horizon. 92+/100. Widely enjoyed by attendees.

At Chavignol; bottles four single vineyard Sancerre blancs, each from distinct terroirs. Still some sulphur obstruction here. Can't fully suppress the terroir character of this cuvee. It is 'flinty' indeed and comes forth further with aeration. Full and well rounded 2023 with plentiful fruit generosity. As usual, the sulphur is less apparent on the palate. I would appreciate a tad more acidity. Will that become more apparent with air and age? 92+/100. Cleared and improved with aeration. Well liked by attendees; orders taken. 'Excellent clarity; silex minerality.' 'Pretty nose, nice flavor.'

2020: At Chavignol; one of four single vineyard cuvees; 50 year old vines in pebbly limestone soil. Plenty bright and brisk, even nearing age two and from a mellow vintage. There is an old vines sense of fortitude. Yes, old vines concentration, extract. Large in the mouth. Fully well balanced and ready to apply. Long, flavorful, textured finish. 92/100.

2022: Winegrowers since the 17th century; at Verdigny; from 30 plots of chalky clay and pebbly calcareous soils. Long, quality natural cork. Fresh and right down the middle Sancerre styling with a degree of vintage plumpness as well as naturally cool lift. Yeah, nothing askew here. Properly balanced. Well textured. A tyro's introduction to Sancerre. Long, flavorful, delicious aftertaste. The tanginess goes on and on. 93/100.

At Verdigny; dispersed vineyards on silex, caillottes, and terres blanches. Playing it close to the vest at this stage. I like the nasal presence, but the aromatics are still super subtle at opening. Great suavity of texture as always here. And good acidity. Just that aroma/flavor development needs time to come. Balanced and even feel throughout. Tangy aftertaste. 92+/100. Improved with warmth and aeration to rate attendees' favorite 2024 Sancerre to date. 'Fresh hay; touch of kumquat.' 'More mineral driven; fresh acidity.' 'The real deal. Lots of flavor and great balance. Long.'

At Maimbray; on Marne clay-limestone; unfiltered. Fuller, and more conventional, both to the good. One thing for sure about these 2024 Sancerres, they're not blowsy. Great balance and mouthfeel. Not pushy, aromatically. Sits right. Rangy at the table. Well balanced through the finish. 92+/100. Popular with attendees. 'Typical; long flavor; nice wine.' 'Big and rich bouquet.' 'Lees aging shows.'

Vines average 30 years; on terres blanches near Crezancy and Bue. No clay under this one's feet. Wow, terres blanches textured and penetrating. Terroir talking here. Yeah, that calcaire cut and vigor. Very flavorful. Like the Auchere, seems the best vintage of this I've tasted. 93+/100. An attendee favorite. Complex, and quite special.' 'Lots of good flavor.' 'Big and rich.' 'Red fruit even; red currant.'

2021: 25 year old vines surrounding Chavignol; native yeasts; aged on lees 4-6 months; unfined. Understated aroma. Seems crisp enough. Well, there's more expression, more feel and flavor and 2021 acid race. 91/100. Enjoyed by the group.

Sancerre's steepest and most esteemed site; kimmeridgian limestone; average age of vines 30 years, native yeasts; unfined, unfiltered. Man, that is depth and concentration of aroma. Terroir expressive. And the class of the site. Awesome Sancerre. Yes, a racy vintage of this cuvee. Love the acid and love the site support. Goes on forever, and I don't want it to stop. I could sniff and sip this all evening. That's class entertainment. Knowing he'd miss the tasting, Steve took a bottle home last week and was equally awed. 96/100. Widely admired, respected, and enjoyed. Especially for its minerality and balance. At least one WOTN vote.

I visited this burly ex-rugger some 40 years ago; today, his daughter runs the show. That's a nice and peachy take on Pouilly Fume. Always is. There's calcaire and flint, but not to the degree of edge as Sancerre. Sits right. Palate shows more acidity than the nose suggests, and that's a plus. Still, that Fume peachy roundness is fully evident. At a good stage. 92/100. Liked by attendees. 'Typical and good.' 'Nice acidity.' 'Gunflint on nose. Tender 2022 character. Fresh and pure, correct and friendly.'

25-30 year old vines on clay, marl, silex, and Kimmeridgian limestone; indigenous yeasts; aged 6 months on lees. Definitely distinct from Sancerre. Peachier. That's classic PF. Plus the gunflint extra that gives it its name. Juicy, racy palate. Better acidity than the 2022. In fact, one of the best vintages of this. Wow, superb balance and length. I think it will get even better over the next year. 92+/100. Enjoyed by attendees; orders taken. 'Pure as spring water.' 'Caressing and refreshing.' More gunflint aromatics came forth as it warmed.

Five generation domaine at Loges; small stones over limestone and clay; 30 year old vines. Natural yeasts. 5 months on barrel lees. Distinctly traditional Pouilly Fume all the way. Full contrast from Sancerre terroirs. Large, serious, deep, reserved. More flavor than aroma at this stage. Still, it speaks more of significance and potential than of present generosity. Balanced and lengthy. One of the best vintages of this. Worth keeping mid term. 93+/100. Favorable attendee comments as the nose became more revealing after breathing. The 'peach' signature of Pouilly Fume emerged with aeration.

Glowing magenta. Cool and clear take on gamay that is distinct from Beaujolais Grand Cru, which it resembles in stature. I guess the zones really aren't that far apart, though on different river systems. Very large and well textured in the mouth while cool and stony. About the best Serol I've tasted, good as they all are. Length feel and flavor. 92/100.

From the lower slopes of Chorey les Beaune; vine age: 45 years; 1 year in seasoned barrels; unfiltered. Medium dark ruby. Rich in Beaune pinot strawberry and other red fruits. Seems to be some barrel aging added breadth and depth. Red fruited all the way, with exceptional acidity. Bouquet development to come, aided by a dusting of fine grained tannin. Well poised. 91+/100.

Est. 17th century; 40-70 year old vines; aged a year in seasoned oak barrels. Medium dark cranberry red. Red fruited rather than black too. Resinous Chalon underlayment. Dense and penetrating; has substance. Firm flavored and textured. Great acidity. Undeveloped but not harshly tannic. Again, the strong sense of material. Good cellar potential. 92++/100. Really shone with aeration and continued to improve throughout the evening. 'Very Bourgogne, quite richly flavored.' 'Nice pinot spice; penetrating aromatics.' Very approachable; acid and structure too.'

At Gevrey Chambertin; winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; aged in seasoned barrels of Alliers and Nevers oak. Nice and black and plummy Cote de Nuits take on pinot. How does he keep putting out these ultra early releases that already have their @#%& together-/ Great acid. Medium bodied. Some astringency in the back. Light, fine grained tannin. So it's not so all together yet after all. 91+/100.

From the Chablis area; 20 year old vines in marl. 2022 fruity, while abiding by northern Burgundy pinot standards. Smells crisp. Lays right on the palate. Shows the way in Chablis area pinot noir, with the usual Fourrey accessibility. Good vintage of this. 91+/100.

2 acre vineyard bordering Chambolle Musigny; barrel aged, 30-50% new depending on vintage; unfined, unfiltered. Some 2020 retarded nature to start but quickly sweetens up. Black Nuits fruit. Gevrey forthright plus Chambolle elegant. Complex, classy, superb. 93+/100. The panel went ape for this one. Wine of the Night.

Made from parcels in Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%), Medium dark ruby. Abundant, dark Nuits pinot emphasis. This is as rangy in aromas as origins. Doesn't need barrel support. All sits together right on the palate. Master blender, was he. Good acid. Some tannin to shed. Should have a great future. 92+/100. Well liked by attendees. WOTN candidate. 'Not a heavyweight but the real deal in a Cote d'Or style.' 'Fine fruit quality; distinctly pinot with pleasant spiciness. Delish!'

2022: Jurassic limestone; at Tonnerre; native yeasts; half aged in seasoned oak cooperage. Neon red violet color. 2022 lends a measure of soft, friendly, forward fruit to what is in the Tonnerre area usually a more austere style of pinot. Unique and appealing. Palate confirms the relatively fruit forward styling, while the acid is full and brisk, as it should be. Fine tannin completes the balanced textural attractions. Markedly different from the 2021, yet just as virtuous in its own way. 92+/100. Loved by the commentators: 'Great Burgundian nose', 'Lovely wine', 'Great price'.

From 50 year old vines near Gevrey Chambertin; yields 2 tons per acre. Medium ruby. Much fuller and sweeter fruit than the appearance would suggest. That's Cote d'Or pinot! And Cote de Nuits black fruited too, particularly plum. Reads time in cooperage but no strong barrel extracts. Sweet fruit on the palate too, and good and racy fruit acidity. Beautifully balanced for aging to a complete bottle bouquet picture. Lingering aftertaste. 93+/100. Popular with attendees, though many felt it would improve markedly with more bottle age.

Winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; vineyard on the south side of the AOC, near Mazis; aged in barrels, 20% new; unfiltered. Full red-black color for burgundy. Luxurious, well padded pinot with purple and black Nuits cote fruits and not a small measure of oak's warm spices. Sweet and enticing. Good acidity. A measure of very fine tannin. At 12.5%, I'm not getting a lot of Gevrey power and stature. Regardless, this guy may be on to something. A pleasure to drink now, really. Quelle surprise! 93+/100.

7th generation domaine at Auxey Duresses. Both vintage lift and old vines intensity make for an invigorating nasal experience. Not as structured as the 2020. More revealing, transparent, joyous. That combo of freshness and intensity carries over to the palate. A subtle oak complex adds to the total picture. No obtrusive tannins this vintage. Balanced, rangy, freshly acidic, and flavorful at this stage, nothing stands in the way of taking this to the table over the coming months. It's a refreshing sort of Burgundy vintage. Besides, a VV village wine at a Bourgogne price. 94/100. Wine of the Night for most attendees.

50 year old vines in the climat Aubuzes adjacent to Santenay; aged a year in barrels, 15% new. Dark ruby. Oh boy, that's old vines concentrated. Barrel extracts and sojourn add complexity and do not dominate the fruit. Abundant fruit and barrel contributions on the palate too, both flavor and texture wise. Tannin for longevity. An absolute STEAL in today's market. Might be even better than the well appreciated 2022. 93+/100. Huge hit; many WOTN votes; bottle emptied (which rarely happens); many orders taken. 'Real deal Burgundy. Lots of fruit and nice touch of oak. Excellent wine and value.' 'Oh, boy! Lovely pinot fruit with a touch of oak underpinning. Very enjoyable now and better in a year or two, which acidity and fine tannin support. Delish!'

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National; aged 7 months in stainless steel and 3 months in oak. Black fruited and resinous Chalonnaise pinot nose. Good fruit sweetness of 2023 and cherry concentrate and resin sappiness of Chalonnais The oak is subtle, well integrated, and complexing. Rich textured and flavored fruit. Lots of material here and signs of barrel impact. Sweet fruited, forward, and inviting to serve already. Helluva a lot of Burgundy for the money. Tannin reads it will improve too. More bottle bouquet to come 92+/100.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National; aged a year in barrels. Firmer and drier than to 2023 Buxy Bourgogne. More oak too. More luxurious mouthfeel than the nose would suggest. Now this is where it is beginning to fill out into Mercurey significance. More of both wood and fruit tannins than the Bourgogne. A waste to serve now, unless further aeration proves its savior. 92++/100. And it did. Aromatics burgeoned with aeration, so preferred by all attemdees. Also considered ageworthy. 'More fruit and more terroir on the nose and in need of more cellar time.' 'Latent aspect.' 'Delish.'

Vines planted in 1972, 1980, and 1995; aged 18 months in barrels, 25% new. Resinous and luxurious Mercurey black plum nose, 1er Cru all the way. Class, well integrated barrel embellishments. Yikes; one of the best in this top rate series. Rich and rangy in flavor spectrum too. Depth and length to boot. Fine grained tannin not an obstacle to dinner service. Still, I'd expect much more bouquet complexity with additional bottle age. 94+/100. An attendee favorite, for sure. 'Really big wine, very young, very deep.' 'Multi berry nose, mouthful of berry flavors. Spice notes too.' 'Very rich palate. Very delicious!' 'Rich, ripe black pinot fruit and quality oak.' Widely considered age worthy.

Got to be one of the best 'basic' Beaujolais wines in the market. Combo of old vines and a master winegrower. No carbonic maceration tutti-frutti aspects at all. Old vines intense. Perfect clarity of image. Extra aromatic nuances not found elsewhere in its genre. Full flavored and textured. Even a little tannin to shed. Comes with the peels extracts. An ample vintage in this proud series. Worth every penny. 93+/100.

5 generation estate; from vineyards on marl at Le Bois d'Oingt and on granite at Saint Verand. Heavy Bottle Award for a simple Beaujolais. Medium dark maroon. Well, besides the bottle, the nose is pretty heavy duty too for its AOC. Old vines and marl show the way. Fresh, bright, and sweet fruit. Surprisingly good flow on the palate. Brings it back in the Beaujolais tout court realm. Most fulfilling vintage of this I've tasted. Justifies the relatively high price. Long aftertaste. 91+/100.

Est. 1512 at Le Breuil; vines 50-100 years old; 2/3 on granitic soils, unusual in southern Beaujolais; native yeasts. Nose proper but understated at opening. Flavors subdued too. I like the texture. There's even some tannin. Acid good, of course. Air and age. 91+/100. Improved with aeration. Still, it suffered a little from the service order (following a Lambrusco, albeit a dry one) but ended up earning kudos. 'A very nice wine; proper purple rim; fresh and fruity; one of the better examples of late, including Grands Crus.'

2019: One of the few, if only, Beaujolais Villages to bear a village name. Pretty, pretty. A real charmer. With extra Villages amplitude too. Fulfills all expectations. Racy, sweet-tart palate. Even a measure of tannin. Nose says go, palate says hold on. Yes, really quite dry and chewy on the aftertaste. 92+/100.

Chantecler, the Gallic rooster; there are 38 villages dotted around the Grands Crus in northern Beaujolais on granitic soils distinct from the sandy reaches of the south. Village rich and rangy. Terroir talks. Nice and forthcoming 2022 at age two. Really good acid for 2022 as well as its padding. Very flavorful. Delightful mealtime wine over the coming months. 92/100. Positive comments from attendees: 'Lovely fruit quality; very appropriate Villages; very structured, youthful; another year wouldn't harm this.'

2022: 70% from La Chapelle de Guinchay (sand, granite); 30% from Lancie (clay, limestone); 45 year old vines. Vibrant purple. Can't get much fresher and more primary than this nose. On the edge of reduction but not into it,/ Yeah, black and purple fruits to the fore. Crunchy black cherry. Supported by a surprising amount of body, texture, even light tannin. Well, it is a Villages after all. This will improve through age three, at least. Super value. 91+/100.

2023: At Fleurie; fifth generation; vines 30-90 years old. Fresh and fruity, even floral. Accomplished; no fermentation residuals. More of a sense of richness than the good 2021 showed. Yes, this is definitely fuller bodied, textured, and flavored. I sense a superior Beaujolais vintage here. Balanced and long on the aftertaste. 92/100. A very popular value with attendees.

75-100 year old vines owed by Jerome's grandfather; only 200 cases per year; Gold Medal ? International du Gamay. Thanks to very old vines, this is the most intense Saint Amour I've nosed. This is supposed to be one of the lighter bodied Grands Crus. Can't tell by this one. Yes, fully concentrated, even earthy. 92+/100. Generally appreciated by attendees, though a couple judged it overdone for Saint Amour. The attendee who took it home found it rounder and more engaging the next day. He did some research and found that St. Amour has not one but two distinct terroirs and styles, this one's denser and less delicate than the perceived norm. Aeration, for him, earned it a WOTN award.

Est. 1877; Famille Geoffroy; from an east facing slope of friable pink granite. The aroma is not particularly forthcoming at opening. Has plenty of nostril PRESENCE though. More flavor than aroma. Classic Brouilly fullness and frankness. Not much tannin, but aromatic development ahead. Palate earns the price. 92+/100. Blossomed with aeration; very popular with attendees. 'Very lovely, true Beaujolais nose and flavor; long and rich.' 'Rich '23 fruit; granitic; GC quality; low tannins; crisp acidity; very young.'

Est. 1861; highest and steepest vineyards of the AOC; on granite, schist, and andesite; the oldest vines (40+ years) go into this cuvee, which is commonly purchased by French embassies; Pavillon is the building, an old hunting lodge, and Chavannes the lieu dit; Shares its Art Deco label with Chateau Thivin, as the owning families are intermarried. This always sings. Seems more material this vintage than usual in addition to its classic CdB elegance. Sits just right. A classic. Oh, and the beauty, equilibrium, and flow on the palate! Totally charming. Not without extract grip at the end either. Will endure, improve. 93+/100.

Oh, this sings! The purity, the elevation, the class of Cote de Brouilly. Clear cherry and berry, translucent, rich, and penetrating. The palate is tighter and has a narrower aromatic spectrum than the nose at present. This is broad and deep textured though. And shows extra class of a Grand Cru. Defines Cote de Brouilly. 93+/100.

60 year old vines. That purple plum nose that is Julienas gamay. Spot on, and likes the cool temp. But more tannic and less flavorful at this temp. I left these in the cooler longer than I wanted because of work demands. I'll try a shorter period next week. 91+/100. Improved with more warmth and aeration; widely liked by attendees. 'Very good GC example; long and very well made.' 'Big cherry fruit.' 'Tense and intense; structured.' 'Calls for cellar time but unlikely to disappoint near term.'

2021: Blue diorites make up part of the Julienas terroir. The usual 'plummy' association I make with Julienas. Relative leanness and closeness of a young wine from a cool vintage. 21 acid and Grand Cru richness in harmony. Likely to become even more yielding after aeration. And certainly after cellaring. Good price. 91+/100.

70 year old vineyard on granite next to Moulin a Vent; unfined, unfiltered. Long, real cork. The elegance of Fleurie meets the dark mass of Moulin a Vent. Wine of place, on the cusp. Mineral scent of a granite based rouge also. This is fairly loaded and yielding nothing to its pinot predecessors. Again, a wonderful combo of size and elegance. Quite like no other Fleurie. We loved the 2021; this is its worthy successor. 93+/100. Commanded full respect and much commentary. Wine of the Night candidate.

Half whole cluster fermented; aged 11 months in seasoned barrels. Medium dark red violet. Big for Fleurie. Shows its power. Not the elegant sort. Sweet and rich fruit and some barrel leavening. Fleurie elegance reveals itself on the finish. While this stays large scaled for the AOC. 92+/100. The sheer size of this impressed attendees, as well as the potential to improve with bottle age. 'Notable bouquet volume; well extracted, big bodied for Fleurie; 2022 ripeness, palate coating richness; evident grapeskin tannins.'

That's a pretty, floral Fleurie nose. Seems more accessible than previous encounters with Hoppenot. Good and ringing fruit acidity. Plenty of flavor. Upscale and spot on. Best Hoppenot I've tasted. 93/100.

5th generation estate; 120 acre vineyard in the northern sector; SE exposure; granitic soil. Quite the special lieu dit. This has oomph. Richness of the vintage; fullness of a northern sector Fleurie; innate elegance of this Grand Cru. Deep seated fruit. All over again. Delicious and bright cherry candy flavor. Full and sweet. The alcohol is a plus, adding body without heat. Its own thing. Filling, long, balanced, satisfying. Well priced. 92+/100.

2020: Parker 92: 'The 2020 Morgon Bellevue Sable mingles aromas of cherries and wild plums with hints of violets and spices. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and satiny, with succulent acids and melting tannins, it's charming and seamless, standing out as one of the most demonstrative, immediate wines in the range. Drink now-2033.'

2021: 65 year old vines on granite; unfined. The medium dark color belies a voluminous noseful of Morgon from the get go. Oh, so lush, deep, broad. Brun spells what Morgon is all about. The palate is loaded with dry tannins though. So inviting to smell, so nasty to taste. Gotta cellar it. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for one attendee, and a 94/100 rating. All agreed the nose was special but the palate still bearish.

Est. 1877; vineyards in six Grands Crus, the most of any Beaujolais domaine; granite and schist soils; vines average 45 years. Classic black cherry Morgon nose. Plenty rich in fruit and GC material. The real deal. Oh, yes, even more explicit Morgon character in the palate. And great acidity. Flavor, balance, texture, length. Great price! 92/100. Attendees were really big on this. WOTN for one commentator.

Smallest of the Grands Crus; next to Moulin a Vent in the north; cooperative of 80 winegrowers est. 1934; extensive cellars, one of the largest complexes in the region; Wine Enthusiast 94/100. That is one solid example of Chenas, dry, full, and suggestive of oak (chene). The fruit is sweet too. Yes, lots of body and material here, but it adheres to gamay's flowing attributes too. Textbook example of Chenas. 93+/100. Consensus panel agreement. WOTN for at least one. Orders taken. 'Complex and fruity.' Granite, tonic, cherry.' 'Grand Cru for sure, with room to grow.'

Vineyard planted in 1939 at 1200', at the top of the Remont hillside. Chenas solid, old vines concentrated, 2022 fruit forward. Flavorful and juicy. Surprisingly little tannin for age and AOC. Well balanced and ready to serve. 92/100. Generally liked by attendees. Some found oak. 'Very nice all around; well made.' 'Tense and intense; very grippy. Lots of wine for $20.'

Est. 1935; 50-85 year old vines across the road from the windmill; aged in seasoned cooperage 6 months; unfined, unfiltered. Good, dark red violet MaV color. Large, commanding even. The power is clear and welcome. 'King of the Grands Crus' reputation exemplified. Deepens and sweetens up as it airs. Wow. Full, powerful, sweet fruited, well textured. Just big in all respects. Complex too. Gives and gives. Promises more to come. 94+/100.

60 year old vines; yields 3 tons per acre; aged 14 months in seasoned barrels. Firm figured MaV with power and concentration from old vines and low yields. Keeper. There's plenty of fruit in there too. And a surprising lushness of fruit on the palate. On a sound foundation of extract and fine grained tannin. Yes, built for good like an MaV should. 93+/100. Very popular with attendees; at least two WOTN votes; orders taken. 'Dark fruited, powerful, well structured. No rough edges. Classic, delicious, inviting.' 'More delineation next day.'

From several lieux dits around Romaneche Thorins; on pink granite rich in manganese. Dark, solid, upright, 'masculine' MaV. Portrays MaV image and also ageworthiness. The fruit is present but scarcely evolved into its fifth year. Much more fruit forward palate. Flavorful, well balanced, and easy to appreciate taste pattern. Sweet fruit finish. For now or later. 91+/100.

2021: 5 generations-old estate covering 23 acres; vines 30 to 90 years old. Boy, this is rich and stout MaV for sure. Seems stronger than 13%. Pumps out the volume. Dark berries, plums, and violets. Big, mouthful MaV fulfillment. Balanced, fine tannin for texture and food, great length. Gads! 93/100. All positive reactions from the tasting panel.

Full and rich 2023 now coming to full fruition. Excellent example. Great acid, calcaire, mineral, cut, savor. Shows the way. 93+/100.

Est. 1590 at Maligny; 25-35 year old vines on Kimmeridgian (or Portlandian-) limestone facing south/southeast. Smells Portlandian, which is Petit Chablis' foundation, despite the website terroir claim. I mean, it smells of calcaire but of a heavier sense than Kimmeridgian. There's marl involved in the nose also. Full bodied for the vintage. Suggests low yields. Young and promising. Delivers a lot of weight for a Petit. 91+/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Plenty of Chablis flavor - real Chablis!'

2022: Vineyard between Milly and Fleys; 25 year old vines. Nice and fresh, unabashedly unwooded, and nearly as crisp as the 2021. Calcaire notions. Lemony flavor. Brisk acid. Ready to take to the table. A tyro's guide to Chablis. 91/100.

Est. 2013 at Prehy, 4 miles southwest of Chablis; 40-45 year old vines; native yeasts; aged 10 months on lees in vats. Celine et Frederic. New to market. Pungent, up front 2022 fruit that stays within bounds of the Chablis vernacular for its good, cool limestone basis. Works for me. Less flavor than aroma at this stage. The acid is 2022 soft yet adequate. A pleasing Chablis for the money. 92+/100.Attendees liked this for the price too. 'Very nice wine, clean and well made; long finish.'

At Maligny; 300 years in the Lamblin family; unoaked. In tun e with the vintage, this is quite the fruity Chablis, while staying in bounds. Ventilating calcaire in abundance too. I smell a bargain. Forward and fruity again. Come hither, really. The acid is ripe and adequate for balance. Combo of classicism and modern up front appeal. I like that, and I like the price. Versatile at the table. 92/100. Enjoyed by attendees and considered priceworthy. 'Proper Chablis, fresh, with excellent acidity. Very friendly; no pretense.' 'Classic; love it; bargain; wow.'

Est. 1831; average wine age 38 years; unwooded. In keeping with the domaine style. Lots of calcaire, lots of terroir. Plus that 2022 fruit forward appeal. Boy, this really is impressive for soil inflection and solid foundation. Yes, this is really solid, traditional Chablis. Weighty and lavish classic. Haven't had one for several vintages. Customer tasted in a restaurant and ordered a case from me. That got me curious. Welcome back, old friend. 92/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Spot on vilage Chablis in just about every respect. Ample fruit and body; refreshing and friendly.'

2021: Vineyards in the communes of Fleys, Chichee and Fontenay; aged a year on lees. Retaining 2021 crispness while taking on a patina of bouquet. Speaks clearly of Chablis terroir. Bottle age has augmented its richness. The 2021 acids are no longer sharp. Well extracted, almost chewy textured. Exemplary balance at this stage. Wants food. 92/100. Attendee comments echoed my appreciation for its terroir and emerging richness.

Wow, that's old vines full and Lavantureux classy. The old vines' limited production give extra concentration in a high production vintage. Nose reads 'complete'. Ample body, flavor, mouthfilling quality, and lasting aftertaste. Everything Chablis VV ought to be. 95/100.

2022: Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 25 year old vines. Hmm, a sense of barrel influence? Fuller than last week's Petit but less forthcoming, aromatically. More padding in the 2022s than the 2021s. The acidity is certainly adequate though. More flavor than aroma as it warms in the mouth. Another one that's likely to blossom over the next couple of hours. Which it did. 92+/100. Nine months later: More-ish. Oh, yes. Much more. Body, flavor, savor, terroir. 92/100.

35 year old vines. Full and pungent. Real old vines size and aromatic breadth and depth. Good vintage acidity. Old vines filler. Lasting finish. A winning source. 93/100.

Vines planted 1975. More old vines oomph here. This really has mass. Almost chewy extract concentration. Flavor wise, more backward. The sheer size in the mouth presages a bountiful future. 93+/100. Liked better still. More potential noted too.

25-40 year old vines. Smell the difference? This is a terroir lesson. More calcaire cut, cool, minerality, chalkiness. States its superiority clearly. Yes, the superior ventilation, class. The acidity is well managed in this cool year. This has even more to gain from bottle age than the Petit. 92+/100. Attendees continued where I left off, noting this wine's superiority as well as the terroir difference. 'Textbook Chablis.' 'Brighter, more citrus driven bouquet that carries over to the palate. More classic.'

Est. 1590; at Maligny; 80-100 year old vines. Nose full but shy on terroir statement. Well, it's coming on now with swirling. Sound calcaire foundation and old vines concentration. Old vines spell full body on the palate too. Again, it's not easy to coax terroir forth on the palate at opening. Unless warmth and aeration spring this forward, I'd sit on it awhile. 93+/100. Well, they sure did. Widely voted WOTN. 'Very attractive and real Chablis nose. Very rich and long; VV shows. Went super well with my creamed spinach omelet next day.'

Lies between 1er Crus Vosgros and Montmains; fallow at the time of the classification; vines average 35 years. Pretty full color as these go. And a Premier Cru like nostril-ful of calcaire presence as ever. Gives a barrel aged sort of breadth and depth, though it's not so handled. 2023 fruit sweetness and forward nature. Coats the usual extract some. Wholly reflects terroir and vintage alike. Balanced and lasting. 92+/100. Appreciated by attendees but widely judged in need of more bottle age. '1er Cru aspirations; a fine addition to the series.'

Est. 1840; average vine age 35 years; aged 8 months on lees. Full and classic. Calcaire speaks. Old vines support Those nice, clean lints that mark a Simonnet Chablis. Minerally, almost steely in its cold and calculated approach. Chablis is about winemaking choices as well as terroir. Greater soft ness and roundness on the palate than the nose suggested. Still, it retains the house style. Minerality, body, balance. Very clean finish. Valid introduction to Chabis. 92/100.

4 generation estate; 9 acres in Cote de Lechet, scattered over 6 plots. Long and real cork; unique in both respects today. Premier Cru size and aromatic intensity, perhaps the most yet in the series. Impressive. Vintage's sweet fruit appeal, and its nice acid balance. I repeat the words '21 acidity, 22 richness combined'. Now or later. 93+/100. Very popular with attendees. '1er Cru stature; minerality, hint of gunflint; smooth, concentrated palate.'

2019: Oh that's good and Premier Cru large. With the largesse of Fourchaume. Bouquet starting to form at age four plus. Spot on. Full bodied, generous, giving. Some of the sweet, inviting appeal of Fourchaume and 2019. This will endure and improve mid term All one could want, and at a decent price. Must have. 93/100.

2021: 17 acre estate, mainly in Puligny; deepest, coldest cellar in the village, which has a high water table; from the younger Puligny vines; aged 90% in puncheons, 10 % in new barrels. Quite a lot of oak. Cool vintage, cool cellar, cool customer. I like its prospects. There's that calcaire Puligny foundation. The oak is positive, adding complexity to both flavor and texture. This is easily worth the tariff in the world of white burgundies today. Balanced, giving, 2021 structured, Many a $60 to $80 village wine would not compete. 93+/100.

Est. 2013 at Prehy, 4 miles southwest of Chablis; vineyard at Prehy with 30-35 year old vines on Kimmeridgian limestone; native yeasts; malo; aged 10 months on lees in stainless steel. Subtle varietal aromas with a decided northern Burgundy bent. Sits comfortably on the palate, showing a combo of fruit richness and calcaire edge. A pleasant and versatile glass, not pushy at the table. 92+/100. Liked by attendees. White WOTN for at least one for its 'richness and aroma.' 'Pleasant, Chablis like, minerally, balanced.' 'Chablis bouquet, luxurious palate.'

At Maligny (Chablis area); 300 years in the Lamblin family; from estate and purchased fruit. This is a Chablis ringer. Brisk, redolent of apple, citrus, and calcaire. The palate has good 2022 padding as well as compensating acidity. Long, well balanced follow through There are positive textural elements, giving balance of fruit sweetness and acidity. 92+/100. Attendees judged it a Chablis like bargain. Big time group favorite. Wine of the Night for many.

Est. 1850; 15-40 year old vines mainly in limestone soils of Maconnais; barrel fermented; aged in 25% each new, once, twice, and thrice used barrels. Attendees were keen on this. 'Defnitely Bourgogne.' 'Smells like a French chardonnay for sure.' 'Macon apple, good acids.' 'Decent example at a nice price.' 'Improves with air.'

On Kimmeridgian limestone in Tonnerre and Molosmes north of Chablis; vines planted from 1954 to 1990; aged 8 months on lees in vats and seasoned barrels. Bright and readily approachable northern Burgundy chardonnay statement. Surprisingly fuller in the mouth than the 2023. Very satisfying flavor, texture, body, balance for the price. Good juice. 91/100. WOTN candidate and preferred to the 2023 tasted awhile back. More terroir. 'Its own deftly made wine.'

Est. 1590; from vineyards in the vicinity of Chablis. Substantial contrast here in the tete a tete of pinot blanc and 'pinot' chardonnay. Large and rich, especially for northern Burgundy. This vintage's Euro whites continue to please me for both freshness and amplitude. Nose won't quit. Almost 'woody'. I suppose it's lees. Yes, full and sweetly fruity for the zone. Hard to believe it's from the Chablis area. Vintage talking. Total current appeal. 91/100. Attendees liked this and agreed with me it was very chardonnay and distinct from Chablis.

The domaine uses no new barrels; mostly once and twice filled from Domaine Leclerc. First taste of a Trapet white; we've enjoyed many a red. Wow, that has the fullness and relative austerity of a Cote de Nuits white. Makes me wonder if some pinot beurot (gris) is involved. As it warms and airs, barrel influences come forth. Good ripe/acid balance of 2023. This is unique, fully intriguing, and, I suspect, age worthy. 92+/100. A tried and true fan of Trapet's red wines notes: 'Wow! One of the most memorable wines of recent years. Unique for its almost sweet character. I can see your question about the presence of pinot gris ? known as pinot beurot in Bourgogne. Lots of oak but well integrated. Super long flavor. Quite an amazing wine and great value. Reminds me in some ways of the Dupont-Fahn wines.'

2022: From six parcels in the township of Meursault. Nose retarded at opening. Sample too cold and in need of aeration. Meursault volume expresses itself though. Plenty of Meursault like nuts and grains. And bulk. Much more to come. 92+/100. After aeration, this got attendees VOTE (Vin of the Evening). 'The real deal; big flavor; Cote d'Or for sure.' 'Awakens the senses and thrills like it should.' 'The real thing, so precise! So balanced!'

From La Rochepot, on the western border of Saint Aubin; beneath a cliff (Eguisons) protecting the vineyard from northern winds; barrel fermented by native yeasts; aged a year plus in barrels, 1/3 new. This is classic Cotes de Beaune chardonnay that reflects the complete set of winemaker input factors, Hautes Cotes not withstanding. Maybe some HCdB extra coolness. Gads, just about all I want in a white burgundy. Well, lets the pedal off the metal a little on the palate. Less intensity, acidity, complexity. Still, it's generous in all lees, barrel, and fruit aspects. Just a little short of brilliant on the palate. 94/100. While recognizing this was short of Meursault and Montrachet caliber, attendees had favorable things to say about it. 'Lovely stuff.' 'Luscious fruit with balanced oak tones.' 'Reeks of quality.'

Vineyard above Corgoloin on very hard ground. Lees stirring, full malo. What IS that nose? Not your typical Burgundy chardonnay. More linear, more lifted. Is it the terroir talking? Or is this pinot beurot or that white sport of pinot noir? Fascinating. Must check this out on the internet. After checking, it's all chardonnay, and the terroir seems to have something special to say.Body, volume, Nuits dark fruit, and suggestions of barrel time. Big time presence. / Yeah, this isn't the usual take on Burgundy chardonnay. More citrusy. Don't seem to be any new oak complications blurring the picture. Voluminous in the mouth too. Flavorful of Nuits chardonnay fruit and oak. Delivers. FASCINATING! 93+/100.

Est. 1947; 70% pinot blanc, 30% chardonnay; 55 year old vines; half fermented in demi muids; aged 15 months in seasoned demi muids; colorful story about Pierre at kermitlynch.com. Wow, that's pinot blanc vs chardonnay. The austerity to the thing. Just the correct amount of barrel influence: not 'woody', just barrel tempered and complexed. Big, old vines valid palate. Yikes, one ample, even chewy textured presence thanks to old vines extract. Where can you find a bigger, more complex pinot blanc than this!? 94+/100. Oak noted by attendees. That, and its pinot blanc uniqueness, rendered this the most talked-about wine. Widely admired for its singularity, it featured a complex of wood, meal, white fruit, and even a hint of tropical fruit highlights.

2020: Only 10% of the AOC is planted to chardonnay; from two parcels, one on the plain, the other on a slope; part cold fermented in stainless steel, part barrel fermented; aged in barrels on lees with lees stirring. That's a classic, 'stony' Savigny take on chardonnay. Barrel fermentation and lees aging add wonderful winemaker-supplemented complexity that is fully in sympathy with its terroir input. Good body and flavor consistent with the nose. Further lees enhancement. Balanced and lasting. Defines its genre. 93+/100. Another group favorite. 'Lovely oak and fruit nose and similar flavors; quite rich; bargain to boot!' 'Full Burgundy chardonnay oak exposure; grip, acid, delineation; perfumed too; a cellar candidate.'

Est. 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. This has positive oaky overtones. As well as the sappy Chalon chardonnay resinous basis. Damn good vintage of this. Yes, oak and resin add to the texture as well as flavor. Unbeatable white burgundy deal. Buxy is quite the find. Consistent bargains across the range. 92/100.

Est 1831; from calcareous clay; aged 8 months in neutral vessels. One intense aligote that speaks for its terroir. I'll bet the vines are old; it has an almost 'woody' aspect to it. Maybe that's a lees effect. More fluid on the palate than the nose suggests. Good aligote dryness and acidity. A solid example at a good price these days. 91/100.

2020: Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. That's pretty pungent and explicit aligote. Buxy knows aligote. Nasal penetration and nippy texture are prime. Rather low key acid for aligote. That's 2020. Still, the vinosity and textural elements are fulfilling, and the price is right. Commentators noted plenty of acidity. I must admit my palate was a little off last Wed. They praised both price and typicity. 91/100.

Est;. 1974 at Bouzeron; aged in seasoned oak tonneaux for 10 months; special attendee price. Certainly full. Age in cooperage and bottle has advanced it nicely for a firm-in-youth vintage. Definite and nutty bottle bouquet forming. Rich and variegated as a result of its upbringing. Very full and satisfying, well textured Rully blanc that belies its modest alcohol statement. Take it to the table with poultry. Well priced for a mature white burgundy. 92/100.

2022: Est. 1931; an association of 120 family vineyards; 53 plots in Montagny, including in a number of Premiers Crus; unwooded. Truly. Not a toothpick evident on the nose. It's Montagny chardonnay welcoming. Showing less of Chalonnais terroir's resin than wines of the appellations north of it. The nose builds in volume with aeration. And on the palate. The original levity is now replaced by real Chalonnais body, delivery, mealworthiness. Fresh as well as full. At a price of Macon Villages these days. 92+/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Nice and Chalonnais resinous and clearly barrel complexed. Classic, and upscale for the price of white burgundy these days. Not as fully textured as the nose promised. Gains with air and warmth though. No, I was too quick to judge. This is building mass quickly. Now settling into that well proportioned 2023 sweet/acid balance. Lengthening too. More barrel complexity joins the picture. Will go and grow. 92+/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Sulphur interference at opening. Seems to be some barrel influence, both extract and time wise. Chalonnaise body, if little resin. Yes, full bodied. Oak and fruit in harmony. Good acid, especially for 2019. I think this will make a good glass after aeration and/or another year or so in the cellar. 91+/100. Other than the initial sulphur on the nose, this was well liked by attendees. 'Lovely balance of oak, fruit, and acid. Long and ready.'

Vines 45-50 years old on clay-limestone; barrel fermented; age 18 months on lees without stirring in new and seasoned oak barrels. Oak to the fore. Chalonnaise sappiness too. Pushy, ambitious. Comes together nicely on the palate, plush fruit absorbing the oak. Surely not lacking in bouquet potential. Good acid for 2020. 92+/100.

Single-vineyard chardonnay from the commune La Chapelle de Guimchay, in northern Beaujolais bordering Maconnais, where the clay-limestone soil is the best suited for chardonnay in the AOC. Always distinct from Macon Villages, and I'm not sure why. Seems drier and more precise. Lovely 2023 combo of ripe fruit and good acidity. Exceptionally flavorful too. Just a delicious form of chardonnay so comfortable with itself. 'Bombastic' is the last word one would use to describe it. Newton Unfiltered it ain't. 91/100. Attendees found this understated at first. Following additional aeration, it blossomed big time. 'Opened beautifully. Mineral laden nose and much improved palate. Really nice wine.' 'Unique chardonnay nose and palate. Well extracted palate; sappy minerality. Yellow apple emerges with aeration on nose and palate alike. Plus spice tones. Retains it's uniqueness.'

2021: At Davaye; est 1928; limestone soil; aged on lees until spring. Vigorous 2021 acidity leaps right out .Green apple aroma suggests no malolactic fermentation. Though reticent at first like previous vintages, aeration coaxes forth plenty of fruit and lees contributions. Very popular with attendees for absence of malo. 'Best of series' comment recorded. Case orders taken. 91+/100.

Est. 1926; vines average 30 years. As so often, 2023 shows a combo of 2021 cut and 2022 plushness. In a most positive way. Always subtle chardonnay apple-citrus aroma builds as this airs and warms. Yes, there it is again, the amalgam of 2021 and 2022 qualities forming an enjoyable 2023, well balanced whole. A little youthfully reticent yet, this will go and grow. 91+/100.

2021: Single vineyard, vines average 50 years, some as old as 92 years. More oomph. Older vines and superior terroir talking. Peels extract and lees aging always give this cuvee a 'woody' aspect. Great 2021 acid. Old vines extract. Full texture. A great vintage of this. 92/100.

Pungent of appley unwooded Macon chardonnay. Crisp in 2024. Yes, very keen and racy. Medium bodied. Flavorful and well balanced. Put it right to use. 91/100.

At Martailly Les Brancion; three generation estate; 30+ year old vines; full malolactic fermentation. Fresh and old vines full. About the fullest bodied vintage of the series. Our regular Touzot clientele will be pleased. No oak, no sap unlike the above, but standing up on its own two feet. Not a creamy full malo sort. The acid stands up to it, a surprise in 2022. Yes, this fills the bill for the series plus adds a domaine name to the title, always an upscale sign. 91/100.

2022: From the thousand-year-old village of Chardonnay; domaine established in the 17th century. 22 soft apple and citrus. Right for grape and village. 22 softness again. Good acid all the same. Gentle and ready to enjoy. More aroma will come with air and age. 91+/100. Attendees more or less agreed with my assessment.

That's Charnay full, especially for the vintage. With vintage freshness too. Bright and flavorful, with Charnay body. Good year for this. Lasting finish. 91/100.

Full, full, full. Deep, dense, intense. A Mr. Big village-specific Maconnais chardonnay. Yes, full flavor, body, texture, extract. So concentrated it even hints of walnut husk. 92/100.

Fifth generation vigneron honors her great grandfather. That's Charnay full bodied. No oak showing, as expected. Race and vigor of cool 2021. Yes, ideal combo of terroir amplitude and vintage brightness and acidity. Perfect balance. Real discovery. 92/100.

Est. 1835; 27 year old vines; indigenous yeasts; spontaneous malo, aged 6 months in vats on lees. The extra oomph of this particular village's Macons. Yes, full bodied and textured for its genre. Worth the premium. 92+/100.

Generations old estate with vineyards in Chaintre, Fuisse, and Poully Fuisse; 32 year old vines; unwooded. Wow, even without the barrel extras, this sports a bigger, deeper, and more profound nasal profile than does the Chalon Bourgogne blanc that preceded it in the tasting order. Love this series, and this smells like a top vintage. Good acidity, fruit, body, balance. Very versatile at the table, therefore. 92/100. Attendees were likewise impressed; WOTN candidate. 'A very credible MF; nice acid and terroir aspect; very nice wine.' 'Macon apple nose. Really solid underpinning acid and mineral.' 'Spot on, top notch Macon.'

2020: Very lemony. Juice, peel, custard. Right. Confirmed. In tune with this MV cuvee years ago, now with Verze specific emphasis. Great acid for the vintage. 91/100.

40 year old vines in the Chaintre sector, south-facing and always the first to be harvested. This smells a little woody in a positive way, though I may be fooled by old vines and lees effects. Yeah, the 'woodiest' in the series. Rich and full. Really sweet fruit of 2023, and that's delicious. A heart throb take on Pouilly Fuisse, which somewhat tweaks mealtime choices. 92/100. Generally positive responses to its P-F Maconnais significance. Suggestion of oak found.

2020: From lieux dits Gaillard and Chateau Gimot on grey marl at Montigny les Arsures; aged in topped-up (ouille) barrels. Do I get a suggestion of barrel influence? Or is it just the variety that's supplying the extra spicy savor? Certainly stimulating. Relatively modest acidity as these go. Or it's coated. I'm delving for more flavor intensity but not finding it yet. Let's see what forms over the coming hours. Well, as it turns out, a lot. Great acid, oak/fruit flavor complex, and length reported. The group was well entertained. 91+/100. Tasted 7/6/22.

2012: Savagnin. Well, that's it. It's palo cortado sherry.but not exactly. This is classic vin jaune, perfect at age nine. Long, long, long. Mouthfilling. Balanced. A special sort of softness you won't find in dry sherries. And less spirit. Did I say 'long' finish.? 98/100.