At Civrac; 65% cab sauv, 35% merlot; aged a year in barrels, 1/3 new. The high cab sauv content stiffens this up more in youth. Real backbone. I don't get much of the new oak. Well, there's some oak intrigue on the palate. Good, high acid again. Wood and fruit tannins to resolve. Dry finish. Priceworthy cellar candidate. The group agreed. 91+/100.

On a gravel outcrop in northern Medoc near the port of Goulee; 35+ year old vines owned by Cos d'Estournel; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; wine made by the Cos team; 50% new barrels. Dark red violet. Dark and distinguished. Full bodied. Well oaked. Seems to have even more oomph than when last tasted. Just the right degree of ripeness in 2019. The barrels supply a whale of a complex nose. Full bodied, full textured, flavorful of fruit and barrel in harmony. Remains the greatest (Bas) Medoc of the 21st century. Good acid, overall balance. It's a neat, discreet, and complete Left Bank claret. Fine tannin and length. I continue to assert it's the best Bas Medoc going these days. 94+/100.

From a property in northern Medoc. Dark color. Brilliant nose. The fruit is so elegant, so well married to its oak seasonings. No sense of clay basis in this Medoc. It's all about gravel terroir and brilliant handling. More pure class than any Bas Medoc I've ever nosed over 57 years in the wine trade. The raspberry, cassis, and Asian spice beauties are all up front on the palate too. 2018 fruit forward style well tempered by barrel aging into something of outstanding integrity. 96+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 90-92: 'Barrel Sample. This ripe wine is full of great fruit aromas and flavors. The tannins are generous and rich, supported by rounded black-plum and -berry fruits. It should cellar well through the medium term.'

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Owned by a member of the Lurton family, the most prolific vineyard owners in Bordeaux, this estate has produced a well-balanced wine touched by wood but focused on black fruits. Richness is balanced by attractive acidity and fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2023. $30.'

50% merlot, 45% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; average vine age: 28 years. Aged 12 to 18 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Decanter 95/100.

Parker 90: 'Revealing scents of sweet red berries, plums, petals and tobacco leaf, the 2016 Poitevin is medium-bodied, supple and perfumed, with a fleshy core of succulent, vibrant fruit, melting tannins and an expansive finish. It's an elegant, seamless wine from this 40-hectare estate. Drink now-2035.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Potensac is a blend of 47% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, harvested from the 21st of September to the 9th of October. The alcohol came in at 14.05% with a pH of 3.54 and an IPT of 74. It is aging in French oak barriques, 34% new. With a deep purple-black color, the nose hits the ground running with lively scents of black raspberries, warm cassis and redcurrant jelly plus suggestions of garrigue, tilled soil, unsmoked cigars and pencil shavings. The medium to full-bodied palate is positively invigorating, offering bags of crunchy black and red berry flavors and a racy line of freshness, framed by approachable, grainy tannins and finishing with a skip in its step. In a word: FUN! Drink 2023-2036.'

Second wine; owned by Famille Delon of Leoville Las Cases; 20 year old vines, 75% merlot, 17% cab sauv, 8% cab franc. Delon style; old school Medoc. 2016 linear. Now emerging for its aromatic trough Has made real progress since last tasted 3/22. Bouquet forming. Even more fruit and bottle bouquet on the palate. High merlot helps soften it. Retains stuffing of fruit, acid, mineral, and softening tannin. Decant and serve, or cellar a year or so longer. 91+/100.

60% cab sauv, 35% merlot, 5% petit verdot; 50th anniversary of the Pages family ownership. Dark red violet. Firm and frank Tour de By. Never very oaky (more than it used to be though). Always holding a lot in reserve. This is southern Bas Medoc, on more gravel than clay, and it shows the class of cabernet from such terroir. Blackberry, black currant. Yeah, like I said, there's a lot behind the early presentation. Flavor wise and texturally. Full fine tannins. I may still have some pre-Pages 1975 in the home cellar. 92++/100. Tasted 10/27/21.

At St. Christoly; 60% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; aged 18 months in large oak foudres. Despite a higher percentage of merlot, this is snappy. And the cabernet blackcurrant shines through as it always does here. Barrel suavity without wood extracts. Good, high acid for 2019. Good flavor and texture performances out compete a lurking tannin. Pretty hefty claret by 2019 norms. I like its poise and promise. 91+/100.

65% cab sauv, 25% merlot, 7% cab franc, 3% petit verdot. 15 ripeness and sweetness. Seems some barrel enhancements. In a bit of a trough, aromatically. Not uncommon with 2015 clarets at age seven. Sweet fruit flavors of 15. Some fine grained tannin to resolve. Best to cellar this another 2-3 years for bouquet development. 91+/100.

At Cussac south of Saint Julien; 50% cab sauv, 47% merlot, 3% petit verdot in Gunz gravel, 12-14 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Beautiful Beaumont, spelling out its Saint Julien like richness and roundness. 2020 deep core of reserve as well. This is not as forward as the 2018 and 2019 at the same stage. Very well rounded indeed. Some dry tannins in back, but they are manageable. Adequate acidity. Will take longer to come to fruition than the previous two vintages. Has the skills to pay the bills. 92+/100. After two hours airing, this became enormously impressive. Widely considered 'best Beaumont ever'. Orders taken.

At Saint Seurin de Cadourne, north of Saint Estephe. 65% merlot, 35% cab sauv. Aged a year in barrels. Suckling 93-94: 'Very dense and rich with a solid core of ripe tannins and beautiful fruit. Full bodied, tight and muscular. Impressive.'

In St. Laurent, west of St. Julien; 68% cab sauv, 30% merlot, 2% petit verdot; aged a year in barrels, 30% new. Well, that's a big sprawl of 2018 fruit ripeness and new oak complex. Deep, dark, ambitious. Cab sauv blackberry to the fore. Ripe fruit savors. Fruit and oak tannins promise a long life. A little backwoods obstinance on the finish. All the same, probably the best Belgrave vintage I've tasted. 94+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Cambon la Pelouse is scented of cedar, tar and earth with a core of warm plums and cassis with mocha and lavender hints. The palate is full-bodied, firm and laden with fruit, supported by grainy tannins and finishing long.'

Vinous 91: 'The 2016 Cambon La Pelouse has a classic, nicely detailed bouquet with blackberry, briary, autumn leaves and cedar aromas that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very harmonious and cohesive with supremely well judged acidity that lends the finish a silky smooth, gently grippy finish that bodes well for the future. Excellent. Tasted at the Cru Bourgeois tasting in London. Drink 2020-2030.'

Parker 91: 'The 2019 Camensac has only improved since I tasted it earlier this year, adding floral aromas of violet and rose to its attractive bouquet of dark berries and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a lively, concentrated wine that concludes with a long, penetrating finish. Drink 2023-2045.'

Suckling 95; Parker 92: 'Opening in the glass with notions of rich berry fruit, licorice, cedar, violets and loamy soil, the 2019 Cantemerle is medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and powdery tannins that gently assert themselves on the finish. This shut down a little after bottling (some 11 months ago at the time of writing), but it is beginning to bounce back to reveal a wine of real charm and character. Drink 2025-2045.'

Wine Enthusiast 94 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'A well-constructed wine that is ripe with black fruits and integrated tannins, this is in a good place for aging. Black-currant fruitiness is balanced by a dry, smoky core that holds promise. Drink this wine from 2026.'

Sweet, round, well developed fruit and oak bouquet. Maturity, grandeur, Grand Cru class. Beautiful. Yes, sweet fruit. Mellowing. Light tannin. Has it all together. Classic to estate, zone; with fine maturity. 96/100.

Est. 1648 at St. Laurent; half each cab sauv, merlot; owned by the Nony-Borie family along with Ch. Caronne Ste. Gemme. This rings with gravel spawned cabernet vitality. Black currant and blueberry. Good 2016 framing and sleek texture. Upon opening, quite a bit of tannin postpones the full performance. After it airing a couple of hours, the group reported it more expressive both flavor and texture wise. A well balanced, well bred, complicated claret. The wine of the night on several score sheets. 92+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'This is an impressive wine. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it is full of black-plum fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The velvet texture brings out an opulent, succulent character that will remain as the wine ages. It needs to age, so drink from 2025.'

Second wine of cru bourgeois Ch Cissac; first time in the market; Familie Vialard; at Cissac west of Pauillac; 70% cab sauv, 22% merlot, 8% petit verdot. This shows significant barrel aging impact for a second wine. 2015 warmth and openness, assisted by time in cooperage. Yes, indeed, barrel time and extracts are well into play here. Both oak and fruit tannins. A sleeper for the cellar. 92+/100.

Owed by Groupe Taillan (with Ferriere, Gruaud Larose, Chasse Spleen, Haut Bages Liberal); managed by Celine Villars; the chateau's 'park' is noted for its peacocks. Amalgam cork center with whole cork discs at each end. Classic Avensan claret with both floral perfumes and forest floor earthiness. And plenty of positive new oak. Revealing and inviting 2019 style. The oak is well controlled, the acid great, the tannins moderate. Solid Citran vintage.92+/100.

At Avensan in southern Haut Medoc; planted to 58% cab sauv, 42% merlot; aged 15 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Real cork. Sweeter, more abundant fruit, black fruit. Oak also impressive. The extra ripeness and power is evident. This is more-ish, the extra year's age adding an assist. More tannic than the 2019, so the palate, at this stage, is not as accommodating. Pretty chewy fare at present. Good era for Citran. 92+/100.

Owned by the Bories of Ducru Beaucaillou; 70% cab sauv, 25% merlot, 5% cab franc; barrel aged at least a year. This is so much more sophisticated under the Bories than previous administrations. High cab sauv black fruit and well integrated barrel extras. Softness, spread, and bouquet coming along nicely now thanks to year in barrel and six in bottle. Yes, a mellow amalgam of fruit, oak, barrel time, and bottle bouquet. Long, flavorful finish. So far, no tannin issues with the red set. 17.1. Well received. 'Real Bordeaux nose/palate.' 'My kind of Bordeaux.'

Heritiers Marquis d'Evry. Depth, richness, fortitude, sweetness, light oak. Admirably ripe enough fruit. Yes, rich and right, with fine tannin, full body, and accomplished mid Haut Medoc cabernet sauvignon presentation. 92/100.

At Cussac, south of Saint Julien; 60% cab sauv, 35% merlot, 4% petit verdot, 1% cab franc, averaging 30 years; aged a year in barrels, 1/3 new, 1/3 once filled, 1/3 twice filled; Vinous 92/100. 2020 core of potential. A well coordinated encepagement. The oak regimen gives complexity in conjunction. Fine craftsmanship here. Cab sauv structure stands out on the palate. This will require longer cellaring than either 2018 or 2019 to reap its rewards. All considered, what Haut Medoc claret is about. 92+/100. 'Most intense ever', 'big bruiser', 'needs cellaring'.

Especially striking red violet color. Well composed. Comfortable in its properly ripe fruit, 19 weight, and barrel sojourn components, in equilibrium. A classic Lanessan. Fine and juicy fruit flavor and acidity. Really, just what I want in a Cussac claret. Fine tannin for texture and cellaring. 92+/100.

Parker 91-93: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Larrivaux features baked berries, warm cassis and herbs with pencil shavings and olives notions on the nose. Full, rich and concentrated, it has firm, grainy tannins with nice freshness and great length.'

Wine Spectator 91: 'Solidly built, showing tobacco and charcoal notes mixed with dark currant and blackberry compote flavors. There's good energy here and the fruit and earth details meld well through the finish. Has a little grip for mid-term cellaring too. Best from 2021 through 2030.'

Decanter 93/100; Wine Enthusiast 93: 'From a deep gravel outcrop in the heart of the Haut-Medoc, this wine offers richness and density. Black fruits show freshness while also melding well with the spicy wood aging. The wine is worth aging. Drink from 2026.'

At Vertheuil, west of Saint Estephe; 55% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 3% petit verdot, 2% cabernet franc; aged 10 months in barrels, 30% new. Medium dark ruby. Lots of flair and fashion. Positively gorgeous, sweet, black, stalwart Haut Medoc fruit with cab sauv form and merlot filling, and oak melange. Medium weight. Some backwoods-commune rough texture and tannin. Nose reads 'drink me'; palate reads 'wait'. Well priced. 91+/100.

Vineyards in both Saint Sauveur and neighboring Pauillac; same owner as Domaine de Chevalier. Good red violet 2019 claret color. Well poised and fashioned if still rather reticent at opening. Fuller, rounder, and more flavorful and forthcoming on the palate. Fine claret form, balance, style. Touch of Chevalier elegance. Tempered by time in barrels. Everything lays right to the finish. 92+/100.

45% cabernet sauvignon, 55% merlot. The estate's third wine, from vineyards outside the Moulis AOC. Pretty damn sophisticated for a third wine. Vineyards likely inland from Moulis and on more clay than gravel. Thus the merlot predominance. This plays out well. Spicy oak and good fruit ripeness. Cabernet and merlot fruit complementary. Sweet blackcurrant and cherry. Seems based on gravel, not clay. It's Poujeaux stalwart and upscale. Yes, merlot fruit richness, cabernet form and tannin. Clearly some barrel upbringing too. Wow, lavish oak and sweet black fruit come forth with aeration. Well crafted. Bravo! 92+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'The 2018 Senejac is deep garnet-purple colored with a nose of warm berries, earth, herbs and tobacco plus floral notions. The palate is full-bodied and rich with fine-grained tannins, nice freshness and good length.

Parker 91: 'Derived from old vines growing in deep gravel soils, the 2019 de Villegeorge is a terrific effort for this 12-hectare Avensan estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cigar wrapper, petals and sweet soil tones, it's medium-bodied, supple and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a seamless, complete profile. A fine value, it's well worth seeking out. Drink now-2042.'

At Avensan; 55% cab sauv, 45% merlot; 12 months in barrels, 20% new; one of only six Crus Exceptionnel in the 1932 cru bourgeois classification. Suckling 92; Vinous 90: 'The 2018 Chateau de Villegeorge, owned by Marie-Laure Lurton, has good intensity on a nose of blackberry and bilberry fruit, a light oyster shell/sea spray note developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, offering sappy black fruit mixed with raspberry notes toward the balanced, delineated finish. I admire the cohesion of this Haut-Medoc, which feels long and tender. Very fine. Drink 2023-2033.'

Parker 91; Vinous 91; Wine Spectator 92: 'Shows a darker profile than most of its AOC brethren, with dark plum and black cherry fruit forming the core, while hints of singed bay leaf, warm earth and dark tobacco peek through. Reveals an earthy tug through the finish, too. Approachable now but no rush. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2034.'

Decanter 93; Vinous 92+: 'Black fruit dominant and interlaced with tobacco and pencil box scents. Classic in style, with that touch of brine on the finish. I admire the way it lingers in the mouth. Drink 2025-2048.'

Vinous 95/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Beautifully mature, this ripe wine with black-fruit and smoky flavors has soft tannins. The structure gives shape to the secondary flavors that are now developing. It is ready to drink.'

Vinous 92: 'The 2016 Serilhan has a wonderful, quite high-toned and generous bouquet with ample blackberry and raspberry scents laced with violet and hints of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip in the mouth, quite symmetrical and focused with impressive precision on the finish. This feels dialed back in terms of power to the benefit of this elegant Saint-Estephe. Tasted at the Cru Bourgeois tasting in London. Drink now-2034.'

On Gunz gravel; 66% cab sauv, 34% merlot; average age of vines 25 years; aged a year in barrels, 40% new. Compared to the 2019 Chateau Fourcas Dupre that preceded this, similar percentage yet a stronger cab sauv statement, in frame as well as the cassis facet. And more oak--good oak. Yes, Pauillac more significant, fuller bodied, fuller extracted, and tannic. A rightful rep of Pauillac at a price seldom seen these days. Best vintage of Bellegrave I'm tasted. 93+/100.

Vinous 95: 'Class personified. Possesses terrific freshness and energy. A Pauillac endowed with tons of transparency and tons of sheer class. Wonderfully sophisticated in every way. I loved it.'

Second wine; 80% merlot, 15% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot. Oh, that's ample and ambitious for a second wine. Lavishly oaked for the same. This is surely superior to the Pedesclaux Grand Vins I tasted earlier in my career. The owner then wasn't a billionaire!/ If the fruit is less ample on the palate, the oak echoes all its promised allures. A little less fruit sweetness and more flow than the 2018, so right in style. You certainly get what you pay for here, both vintages. 93+/100.

Second wine; 80% merlot, 15% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot. That's got a lot of new barrel influence for a second wine. Very sophisticated, upscale, nuanced. For all that merlot, there's still Pauillac structure. Virtually a Grand Vin. Yes, amidst merlot fruit sweetness, plenty of heft and structure. The barrel complexity continues to provide great flavor range. Wow. Value! 94+/100.

James Suckling 96; Wine Spectator 93: 'Ripe and juicy, with a youthfully compact core of steeped plum, blueberry and black currant fruit. The finish is scored by violet and singed apple wood notes, with a tug of tar peeking in as well. Offers ample fruit and inner freshness, so this should open up soon enough. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2038.'

Parker 92+: 'Offering up aromas of cassis, plums, pencil lead and licorice, the 2019 Chasse-Spleen is medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins that assert themselves on the finish with a very civilized expression of Moulis-typical grip. Forget it for a decade and follow it for the next two. Drink 2029-2049.'

Est. 1457; bought by Anthony Barton's daughter, Lilian, in 2011; she's now in charge of all three Barton Chateaux; 59% cab sauv; 35%, merlot, 6% cab franc; aged in barrels 12-15 months, 1/3 new. Yeah, the new oak is there. Yet, in the true Barton fashion, it's always the seasoning and not the main course. An upscale Moulis with a Gunz gravel basis. Great development for the AOC. Yeah, this is far more sophisticated than the Moulis average cru bourgeois. Intricate texture as well as flavor. Exciting new discovery for this Moulis fancier. 93+/100.

Vinous 91: 'The 2016 Mauvesin Barton has an attractive, quite open bouquet of crushed violet and potpourri scents; red fruit (raspberry and wild strawberry) emerges with time. The well-balanced palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins rendering it lithe in the mouth, leading into a spicy and quite persistent finish. Delightful. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting. Drink 2021-2032.'

Wine Enthusiast 91; Vinous 90-92: 'The 2018 Fonreaud comes from one of the appellation's most reliable addresses. This has a very well-defined bouquet with beautifully integrated new oak, the perfumed black fruit soaring from the glass. The palate is fresh, detailed and poised, delivering real penetration. The detailed, sweet but tensile finish lingers in the mouth. Bon vin! Drink 2022-2040.'

Highest vineyards of the Left Bank; on gravel; 66% cab sauv, 33% merlot, 1% petit verdot; aged a year on barrels, 1/3 new. A freshness and lift of 2019 to it. Not so lush and fruit forward as the popular 2018. The blackberry cab sauv comes forth with 2019 charm, and the barrel impact it well taken up already, so positive. All plays out well on the palate, the medium weight, the refined oak, the lightly chewy tannin, and the overall harmony. All about gravel. No backwoods Listrac clay to it. Handsome Left Bank claret presentation. Very popular claret value. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'The 2020 Baron de Brane is a blend of 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 58% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-black colored, it leaps from the glass with vibrant notes of crushed black and red currants, black raspberries and bay leaves, plus hints of lavender and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate is soft and refreshing with lively fruit and an herbal lift on the finish. Drink 2023-2030.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'Lilac, warmed black currant preserve and incense notes work together to define this caressing wine, while subtle mineral, bay and warm earth notes support the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2033.'

Vinous 95+/100.

Suckling 93; Vinous 89-91: 'Creme de cassis, lavender, grilled herbs, licorice and dark spices are front and center. This elegant Margaux is all class.'

Second wine; from younger vines; 52% cab sauv, 48% merlot; aged 16 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Ah, that special Margaux perfume coupled with yet another example of skillful application of new barrels. This is gentler, lusher, more 2018 fruit abundant. A top drawer second wine. Yes, Margaux velvet textured as well as violet perfumed. Superior to what was labeled the Grand Vin a couple of generations back. Tannin to spare for cellaring as well. 94+/100.

60% cab sauv, 40% merlot. 35% new barrels - high for a second wine. Just a stunning red violet color. Full charm of d'Issan. Full elegance of Margaux. A pattern for all Margaux. Good, rich 15 fruit, especially rich for a second wine. Not at the cost of elegance. For a second wine, this is just as classy as it comes. Definitive of site, appellation, and style. And vintage. Nice and rich palate. The vintage is really talkin'. This is richer than the norm here. Admirably ripe fruit, fine tannins. Well padded. Very fine effort. 93/100.

Vinous 94: 'Matured in 40% new oak, this has a voluminious, multi-faceted bouquet of red and black fruit, cedar, and rose petal. A detailed, tensile finish. Drink 2024-2045.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'Silky and refined in feel, with perfumy black currant paste, plum reduction and blackberry compote notes forming the core while sandalwood, black tea and cedar accents drape the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2034.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Marquis d'Alesme has tuned out well, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, woodsmoke, licorice and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's supple and charming, with a succulent core of fruit, powdery tannins and fine length. Drink 2025-2045.'

Vinous 92: 'The 2014 Marquis de Terme has really come together nicely. Dark, pliant and supple, it offers notable depth and intensity. Sweet herb, licorice, menthol, chocolate and smoke infuse a core of dark stone fruit. The 2014 shows quite a bit better from bottle than it did from barrel. Hopefully, the overt oak will soften a bit over time. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. 2020 to 2034.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Young but already elegant and complex, this wine is destined for long-term aging. Ripe blackberry fruits and serious tannins will take time to mature. Drink from 2025 when this wine will be in balance. $40.'

James Suckling 96/100.

Vinous 95: 'The 2015 Prieure-Lichine has really come together over the last two years. Sumptuous, bold and racy, with no hard edges or angular contours, the 2015 is all class. The purity of the flavors is striking. Bright floral and spice notes perk up the red stone fruit nicely in this sensual, silky Margaux. All the elements simply fall into place. This is the first vintage Stephane Derenoncourt and his team made in the new cellar. In 2015 Prieure-Lichine, is a total knock-out. Don't miss it. Drink 2025-2040.'

Vinous 94/100.

Wine Enthusiast 95: 'From the partner estate to Chateau Giscours, this wine is as elegant as you would expect. While it is structured, it also has ripe fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The dry and firm core of this wine will propel it forward. Drink from 2027. $70.'

Marie Laure Lurton, proprietor; at Soussans; 54% merlot, 43% cab sauv, 2% cab franc, 1% petit verdot; 10-14 months in barrels. Improving each quality vintage as its vines mature. There's a Margaux charm aspect and cabernet on gravel black currant. Close, tart, tannic upon opening. Hopefully this will open up as it airs. The material is there. And it did to considerable extent, offering on the palate more fruit, more oak, and that lovely cabernet cedar suggestion. Widely appreciated by the group, with the caveat it needs more cellar time. 92+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94 - CELLAR SELECTION: 'Situated in one of the northern sectors of Margaux, this estate was created in the 13th century. This sumptuous wine has enormous power that is mitigated by the taut, mineral texture and black-currant flavors. It is a finely wrought wine that will take time to age. Drink from 2024.'

Wine Enthusiast 95: 'Solid tannins mark this still very young wine. At the same time, the fruit is rich and well proportioned. Black currants dominate the fruity spectrum, giving the wine richness as well as great potential. Drink from 2025.'

Wine Enthusiast 92 - CELLAR SELECTION: 'This beautifully balanced wine is rich and stylish. Classic black currant flavors enhanced by judicious wood aging have a smoky edge as well as fresh fruitiness and the potential for richness as the wine develops. Drink from 2023. $40.'

Wine Spectator 91; Parker 91: 'The 2014 Latour-Martillac has an attractive bouquet with intense blackberry, briary, warm gravel and balsamic notes that are very well defined and evoke Pessac-Leognan through and through. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannin. It feels gentle in the mouth, not structured but fleshy and full, fanning out with crushed strawberry, red cherry and white pepper towards the satisfying finish. This is early drinking compared to its peers, yet well crafted. 2019 to 2032.'

Second wine of Grand Cru Malartic Lagraviere; 83% merlot, 12% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; 16 months in barrels, 25% new; Decanter 91/100. Dark ruby and earning some rim ruddiness. Well, the sweetness of merlot, the black earth impression I get from good Graves clarets, though, of course, that's not the terroir. Nice flow of 2019. Barrel contributions are now nicely absorbed. Has vintage and Malartic stylishness about it. And a promising, mid term development potential. 92+/100. Well liked: 'really good; classy; very rich, long flavors; great value.'

Jeb Dunnuck 95/100.

Vinous 95: 'Beautifully defined on the nose, very pure with precise blackberry, briary, violets and iris flower, harmonious. The palate is cohesive and mineral-driven; the terroir is very expressive towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Wonderful, assured and with great potential.'

Parker 93: 'Offering up inviting aromas of plums, raspberries, violets, vine smoke and raw cocoa, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with velvety tannins, succulent acids and an elegant, complete profile. This beautiful wine includes some 15% Cabernet Franc.'

Owned by the Cuveliers of Clos Fourtet and Ch Poujeaux; 70% merlot, 20% cab franc, 10% cab sauv, vines averaging 40 years; aged up to 18 months in barrels, 50% new. Whoa! Here's a full dose of oak augmentation. Well absorbed at this stage. Overall, a very sophisticated wine. That's what Grand Cru Classe terroir is about. This really is a splendid Saint Emilion GCC value. Yes, GCC complex and noble. Intricate flavor profile. Tannins fine and laid back. For use or cellaring. 94+/100.

Under vine since Roman times & Famille Beaulieu for 400 years; on limestone between Chateaux Angelus & Beausejour; 60% merlot (vines up to 100 yrs old), 30% cab franc, 7% malbec, 3% cab sauv; barrel aged 18 months. Good fruit and aromatic complexity, if subtle, understated. Welcome acidity and minerality. Well balanced. Very popular with the Europhiles. Well crafted in 2017. Bravo. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'This rolls through with a cashmere grace, offering cassis, steeped plum and blackberry purée flavors infused with black tea and incense notes. A late alder thread keeps this nicely grounded. Suave. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2035.'

Second wine of a Grand Cru Classe Chateau on the limestone plateau; 95% merlot, 5% cab franc from the property's younger vines; aged 15 months in once filled oak barrels. Boy, that's a whopper of a second wine too. Right Bank generosity, lushness. And barrel augmentation almost to the degree of the previous Fleur. Wow, this has charm; just soars. Luscious in the mouth too, with a fine grained tannin foil. Superb fashioning here. Grand Vin knockoff too. New to me, and quite the pleasant surprise. 94+/100.

Parker 92: 'Aromas of dusty berries, cherries, warm spices and petals introduce the 2020 Fonroque, a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy wine with a vibrant core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish. As readers may remember, part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink 2025-2045.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Fonroque has turned out nicely, offering up aromas of blackberries, minty cassis, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a rich, generous, demonstrative wine that remains nicely balanced. Part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink now-2039.'

Vinous 96/100.

Vinous 95: 'Has a beautifully defined, pure bouquet of black cherry, blueberry, crushed violet and mineral aromas. The harmonious palate displays both power and elegance. This is a superb Grand Mayne.'

85% merlot, 15% cab sauv. Dark red black color. This is the best of these I've nosed. Full 2018 fruit bounty plus the most oak expression I've found. Palate is equally full of fruit and oak. Full textured too. Fine acidity. Tannin to shed. Ultimately, pretty serious Grand Cru stuff. Will cellar. 93+/100.

Vinous 95: 'A complex, mesmerizing wine, Pressac offers up an exotic melange of black cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice, spice and menthol. All the elements are so well balanced. Espresso, lavender, dried rose petal and cedar linger on the complex, well delineated finish. Seriously impressive. It's as simple as that.'

Parker 93: '71% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Carmenere and 2% Malbec. .Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 de Pressac prances out of the glass with cheery scents of Morello cherries, black raspberries and plum preserves, plus suggestions of chocolate mint, licorice and unsmoked cigars. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers loads of energetic black, blue and red fruit layers, framed by grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and mineral laced. It's approachable now yet has the stuffing to cellar for 15 years or more. Drink 2022-2038.'

At Libourne; 85% merlot, 15% cab franc averaging 35 years; est. 1880; adjacent to Chateau Figeac; aged 6 months is all new barrels. 2018 fruit amplitude matched and tempered by the barrel influence. This is not new-barrel oaky. The brief stay and the bottle-age earned integration leaves the oak complexing but short of dominating. Yes, a rich melange of 18 ripe fruit and barrel savors. Alcohol gives body without heat. A lot of Saint Emilion for the bucks. 92+/100.

2016: Part of the Clarence Dillon (Haut Brion) group. Saint Emilion richness and roundness plus very polished and sophisticated barrel extras. Oh, the roundness and succulence of the fruit, exceptional for 2016. Plus the 16 burnished texture, good control, and tailoring. Total balance. Long finish. Fine cellar potential. 94+/100.

2018: Owned by ace consulting oenologist Denis Durantou; 98% merlot 2% cab franc; at St Etienne de Lisse; aged 14 months in barrels, 30% new. Near black color concentration. Full 2018 fruit abundance tempered and complexed by barrel effects, including new barrels. Thoroughly modern claret in the best sense, as you'd expect from this maker. Prominent fruit richness conquers the oak, which adds an underlying layer of taste and tannin. Very, very long finish. 93+/100.

Suckling 93: 'Smoke, pine needles, bark and currants follow through to a full body with layers of firm yet round tannins and a chewy finish.' Aged 15 months in barrels, 35% new.'

Second wine; owner: Coralie de Bouard, daughter of Hubert de Bouard (Ch Angelus); 85% merlot, 10% cab franc, 5% cab sauv; formerly Ch Tour Musset. Clearly well oaked. Very spicy and cedary--ideal. Gives range and vigor to a rich basis of Saint Emilion merlot fruit generosity. The fruit persists on the palate, taking up all the barrel nuances. Good acid. Tannin well managed. This is well positioned for gathering a sophisticated bouquet complex by age seven. 92+/100.

Famille Lagardere; 95% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged 18 months in vat; Michel Rolland's team consults. Wow, that's a fresh, forward, 2019 Rolland fruity style of Saint Emilion.All in all, a spot on Montagne. Very inviting on the palate too. Flavorful. Good acid. Fine tannin needs a little honing away in the cellar. Then you'll get all your money's worth. 91+/100.

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. A full, rich, round wine as it ought to be given zone and vintage. The barrel influence is evident and positive. Cellar temperature boosts the tannin effect. Flavorful of merlot and barrel in harmony. 2020 framing. Generosity that is Saint Emilion. 91+/100. Tannins widely noted, and fruit level to stand up to them. Well liked overall.

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. A softer, more welcoming nose. 2019 forward and racy. Oh, that's a lovely, elegant take on merlot. Yes, the forward fruit, the ease, the balance. Lower level tannins. Can be served now. 92/100.

Parker 91: 'The 2016 Du Courlat has a rich, slightly jammy bouquet with redcurrant and cranberry fruit. The palate is well balanced with juicy tannins, rich but nicely controlled with a very poised and tensile finish. Now this is a lovely Lussac Saint Emilion in the making. One to watch out for.'

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. The Big Easy vintage, rich, ripe, forward. Plenty of bouquet development yet to come. Still some tannins to resolve, though they are well coated with 2015's warm, velvety fruit. Quite a powerful expression despite nominally the same alcohol level as the other three vintages tasted alongside. Tannin on teeth at end. 91+/100.

Proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix; 82% merlot, 8% cab sauv, 10% cab franc; average vine age: 33 years; aged 6 months in barrels, half new, half once used. This has ample oak influence, including the more dramatic new barrel effects. Large, dark, and complex 2018. Vies with Saint Emilion proper--even Grand Cru. Palate backward yet clearly loaded for bear. Full body, texture, breadth, depth. The tannins are fine grained, if obstinate still. Cellar it 2-3 years. 93+/100.

Once owned by Roman poet Ausonius.; 55 year old vines; 70% merlot, 30% cab franc; aged 15 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Deep red violet color. Black fruited and serious 2020 vintage product. Not as fruity and flowing as the 2018 and 2019. Black through and through. Important measure of barrel savors too, Big time satellite claret. Just as dark and surly on the palate. Tannin calls for keeping. Real black cherry and raspberry fruit concentration. Awesome future. 93+/100.

Vinous 92: 'Has a fresh bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and light sous-bois aromas, hints of shaved truffle emerging with time. The palate is quite sweet and concentrated, and almost viscous on the finish, which feels very persistent.'

Vinous 91: 'Has a pretty bouquet of perfumed scents of black cherries and cranberry mixed with light cedar and fig-like aromas. One of the most sensual Bonalgue wines I have tasted and it comes thoroughly recommended. Drink now-2034.'

Parker 93: 'The 2018 Les Cruzelles is composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, with 40% new oak and 14.5% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple colored, it comes bounding out of the glass with energetic scents of crushed blackberries, juicy black cherries and ripe plums, plus hints of menthol, dark chocolate and star anise. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers mouth-filling black fruits with a soft texture and bags of freshness, finishing long and lively. Drink 2023-2040.'

At Neac; sandy gravel over ferrous oxide; 30 year old vines, 80% merlot, 20% cab franc; aged 18 months in vats. This has a full, dark purple 2020 color too. There's a lot of freshness and lift to this. It's not 2020 surly in youth. Long time in vat has advanced it nicely. Plenty juicy merlot vigor and sweetness. Good acid, framing, finest of tannins. Spot on, and a good value Lalande. 92/100.

Densely planted vines, 35 years old; 80% merlot, 15% cab sauv 5% cab franc; aged 18-24 months in barrels. Fronsac solid. But not stodgy. Time in barrel offers aromatic range and grace. 2018 offers a relative measure of up front fruit. There's old vines depth and concentration too. Great acid. Full of dry extract. The tannins are smooth. Couldn't be a more classic presentation of a young Fronsac. Widely liked by the Europhiles for its typicity and potential. 92+/100.

Vinous 93/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'This has a succulent feel, pulling you into its mix of fresh plum, red cherry and raspberry coulis flavors while bergamot and red tea accents stay in the background. Finish is juicy but tightly focused, with an underlying chalky thread lending precision. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2030.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'This is packed with plum and blackberry compote flavors, supported by graphite and smoldering tobacco notes. Everything melds through the solidly structured and toasty finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2030.'

At Saillans; merlot, cab franc, cab sauv, malbec; aged 20 months in barrels. Fronsac forthright, Fronsac solid. Given this firm basis, there's plenty of material to work with its generous oak intricacies, to stay free of over-oakiness. That lush 2018 fruit definition, good acid, plenty of oak complications. Never loses its sense of place. Fine tannin points to cellaring prospects. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'A terrific effort from this large and immaculately maintained property on the clay-limestone slopes of the Côtes de Castillon, the 2019 d'Aiguilhe exhibits aromas of cherries and cassis mingled with notions of burning embers, licorice and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a mineral finish, it's intelligently matured in tank and large-format oak as well as small barriques. Drink now-2039.'

The prestige cuvee; 80% merlot, 20% cab franc. Serious dose of new oak to this tip of the pyramid cuvee. Fruit depth and concentration to take it all up. An upscale Castillon. Still pretty heavy in the oak flavors and tannins. They won't outlive the fruit; that's intense and compact and all present. Ambitious. Requires cellaring. 92+/100.

In the commune of Belves at one of the highest points of the appellation. On a continuation of Saint Emilion's clay-limestone slope. 80% merlot, 18% cab franc, 2% cab sauv. Wine Enthusiast 93/100. My notes: Dark, with a slight ruddy cast at age 6. Boy, two years older but equally fresh and youthful. Sweet merlot to the fore, in a more linear form of 2016. Clearly there are oak contributions. Well, falling into a bit of a trough like many a 2016 claret at this stage. Less flavor and more tannin impact. No problem. Plenty of bouquet potential. 92+/100.

95% merlot, 5% cab franc; owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; barrel aged 15 months. Well, this is good Castillon terrior (an eastern extension of the Saint Emilion cote) and Grand Cru Classe elevage. Folks are going to have to learn that Castillons nurtured in this fashion are worth over thirty bucks. Ripe 2018 fruit and intricate barrel nuances. Deep, full, lasting. One of the best. Full bodied and full flavored. Full of 2018 merlot richness and savor. And so finely imparted barrel embellishments. I'm in awe. 94+/100.

All merlot; second wine of Chateau l'Hetre, owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; from younger vines and parcels on the lower slopes. Deep red violet. While dominated by sweet, ripe, concentrated merlot fruit, there's a surprising measure of oak sophistication evident for a second wine. Full Thienpont class. White dwarf extract compactness on the palate. And considerable tannin for merlot. That's 2020, and, I suspect, a measure of press wine. 100% allure on the nose; resistance (but potential) on the palate. 92+/100.

Famille Taix; 20 acres on the limestone plateau and clayey slope; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc; a minor percentage aged in new barrels. Well, that minor percentage goes a long ways toward contributing to aromatic range, complexity, and suavity of the nose. Good and generous, ripe Castillon fruit of the Saint Emilion's cote's eastern extension. Great acid here too. And mellow Castillon richness. Consistent overachiever. 92/100.

Deep, dark definition of 2018, with the usual ripe-fruit style of this Chateau. Youthful fruit. Spices emerge with aeration, and the nose gathers depth. Dense and spicy. Plenty of good, fine-grained tannin. Good acidity. The vintage talks the talk. While ripe, the acid reads Euro. Tannin builds at the end. Everything points to a positive evolution. 91+/100.

Jed Dunnock 94; James Suckling 94; Vinous 92: 'The essence of inky blue/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol, and licorice. Pliant and fruity, with striking depth, it's irresistibly beautiful, exotic and beguiling. It's as simple as that.'

Proprietor Bernard Augereau; at St. Pey d'Armens; 70% merlot, 15% each of the cabernets; aged in vats. Last seen in the 2012, when it was vintage stubborn for several years and then burst its bonds. Well, thanks to the nature of 2015 vs 2012, this entices at a similar tasting age. Sweet and spicy. Castillon generous. Medium bodied. Gentle tannins. Rightful balance. Ready to serve. Good value. 91/100.

Wonderfully ripe fruit of 2015 in the simultaneously rich and racy Francs style. Good spread of feels and flavors on the palate. The magnum size retards bouquet development, so cellaring a few years will be rewarded. 91+/100.

Owned by Hebrard (formerly of Cheval Blanc) and de Bouard (Angelus); highest vineyard of the AOC; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc; aged 14 months in barrels, 1/3 new; Wine Enthusiast 92/100. Great power, merlot sweetness, and considerable barrel impact. Grand Cru ambitions. And a good measure of tannin, as the 2018s are beginning to reveal as the original fruit plumpness dries up to an extent with bottle age. Its long range intentions preclude present senses of proportion and pleasure. 92+/100.

Mostly merlot. A dark, rich, and hearty 2018 Bourg. Wow, this is deep purple fruit of 2018. Really fills up the nostrils. Upholds Bourg's reputation for generous clarets. Better than the last vintage we had, which as damn good. full Bourg impact and generosity. Yes, lush, purple fruit to the fore with compensating acid and fine tannin. So cellarworthy as well as ready to take on strong fare. 91+/100.

Decanter 97/100 - PLATINUM AWARD. My notes: At Berson; est. 1464; 87% merlot, 10% cab sauv, 3% cab franc. Dark red violet. Full and quite firm yet at opening. Plenty of material; shy on aroma. Oh, a good juicy merlot cherry flavor. Much more yielding on the palate. Exhibits strength, extract, and fine grained tannins. Well balanced. I like its prospects. 91+/100.

The prestige cuvee. 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv. Nice and spicy nose. Barrel aging stuff going on here. Yes, mellowed by barrel aging too. Baking spices. Quite the treat. 92/100.

Famille Martin; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; 2/3 aged a year in barrels. Always the oak complex here. I haven't found a Blayais wine as much barrel influenced as this one, except Roland la Garde's elite cuvee. Oh, and there's 2018 fruit abundance to match. Both fruit and oak tannins close down the palate to an extent. Material, texture, extract, balance. Deep, rich, complex, long. Serious stuff; ambitious stuff. 92+/100.

Suckling 93: 'A delicious savory red with blackcurrant chocolate and cedar aromas and flavors. It's medium-bodied with fine round tannins. Fresh and bright. It opens at the end and becomes chewy and intense. Give this two or three years to soften but it's already focused.' By the de Bouards of Chateau Angelus. From vineyards they own in Castillon and Saint Colombe on clay-limestone slopes.'

Smooth, forward 2019 middle weight claret. Well presented. Sweet, modern, appealing. After further aeration: Wow! Expressive and alluring/ Palate confirms these impressions fully. Fresh and upbeat. Balanced. Makes for attractive current drinking. Very flavorful follow through. 91/100.

60% merlot, 30% cab sauv, 10 % cab franc. Smells 2018 lush. Tastes that way too. Merlot rich dominance supported by the cabernets' dark fruit. Good acid. Talks the vintage talk. Deal. 91/100.

Thierry Lurton, proprietor; 700 year heritage; 60% merlot, 40% cab sauv; an old vines selection; barrel aged. Wow, barrel aging has added a lot of breadth and depth to its already impressive old vines fruit intensity. One loaded Bordeaux Superieur. 2016 black fruit and silky texture. Finest of tannins. Exemplary 2016 BS. Competes well above its AOC. More to come. Well liked by the group. 92+/100.

Suckling 91/100. My notes: At Villegouge. Merlot and cab sauv. Oh, that is a sweet, bright cherry merlot nose. Yes, with tarry extras. Fine tannin for texture. Good acid. I can see the rating. 91+/100.

98% merlot, 2% cabernet franc. 43 year old vines. 9 months in barrels, half new. Owned by the Janoueix family. Oh, charm, oak, finesse, barrel time, everything. Perfect. Perfectly proportioned. Super value. 92/100.

In the Fronsac area; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc. Wow, this is a merlot bomb framed by 2020 structural casing. We last had the 2018, and that was almost too fruity. The 2020 structure gives this a more claret like disposition. Yeah, plenty of fruit but also framework, good acid, and tannin. These 2020s are not as gentle as the 18s and 19s. 91+/100.

At Montussan, northern Entre deux Mers; all merlot; proprietors Philippe Nunes & Hubert de Bouard de Laforest. Full red violet color saturation. Good and ripe fruit, especially for 2016. A very silky nasal texture. Bouard hand shows here. And there's some barrel upbringing evident. Yes, there's the 2016 fine tannin and the good, ripe, yet well controlled Bouard merlot approach. Long finish. Fine modern claret. Bouard's got the skills to pay the bills. 92+/100.

From Issan's vineyards on the richer palus soils between Margaux's gravels and the estuary; 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv. Oak enters the scene here. Adds dimension. Solid fruit basis. Some dry oak tannins in youth. First of the reds this evening that I'd advise cellaring. Persistent aftertaste and texture. 92+/100. Aeration brought out more flavor, better balance, enhanced oak/fruit complexity, range, and sophistication. Judged a great value. Many attendees' wine of the evening.

2016: At St. Genis du Bois; 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot. Gold Medal - Bordeaux. Lots of purple-black cab sauv fruit. Richly fruited wine with seemingly some seasoned barrel aging influence. Really well put together combo of varietals. Good cabernet tannin. And the cabernet fruit is fully ripe. Deliciously balanced and overall very, very fine. 91+/100.

2016: All old vines merlot. Dark purple. Deep, dark, and rich. Wisp of violets. Some oak spice too. Old vines fruit intensity. Oak seasonings. 2016 satin texture. Tannin to shed yet. 91+/100.

At Soussac, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 30% cab franc, 20% cab sauv. The wine is bright and wholesome and youthful. Sweet and simply proffered claret of the region. Flavorful. With aearation comes an allspice note. Well textured. A little fine grained tannin to shed. Versatile at the table. I'm thinking lamb chops. 90/100.

Rich merlot dominance. 18 black fruit. Really quite dense and powerful for its appellation. Yes, rich, black, well rounded merlot palate. Fine body and flavor intensity. Really delivers for the price. I'll be buying this one. 91+/100.

Famille Chollet since 1865; vineyard borders Lussac St. Emilion; 80% merlot, 20% the cabernets. A lot of sweet merlot fruit out in front. It does exude Saint Emilion area generosity. Runs deep too. Yeah, very rich and ample for its modest AOC and low price. No intrusive 2020 tannins. A lot of Right Bank claret for the money. 91/100.

At Gornac. 85% merlot, 15% cab sauv. Ripe and seductive merlot aroma. Smoky ripe. Confirmed, with good acid, form. Modern claret at its best. 91/100.

Suckling 91: 'This shows lots of fruit and walnut character with some chocolate. It's medium-bodied with lovely, integrated tannins and a juicy finish.'

Proprietor Olivier Banier. 14.5%. 65% merlot, 15% each of the cabernets. A delight. 19 combo of richness and race. Fruit out in front, expressed in true claret moderation. Race, fruit, balance, 19 claret stylishness. Great acid. Buy it! 91/100. Packed in branded wood cases of 12 bottles.

5-acre family estate at Escoussans on the right bank of the Garonne. Partly due to the power, this claret of the humble Bordeaux AOC doesn't back down from the Medocs that preceded it in the tasting order. It's pretty full bodied, certainly 2018 rich fruited. Palate speaks the same language. A really generous 2018 style that holds its power well. Fine tannin on the long finish. The group was impressed with the value. 91+/100.

Est. 1930 at Saint Andre du Bois, on the Right Bank of the Garonne northeast of Langon; mainly merlot and cab sauv, with a little cab franc and malbec. This has good body and power. It doesn't shy away from the competition. Nice merlot fruit sweetness. Oh, this is a rich one. The forward black fruit of 18 and the power of 15. Very large for 19. Deep and spicy. Merlot continues its cherry fruit dominance on the palate, the others adding framework and tannin. Priceworthy cellar candidate. Best from 2024-2026. The group appreciated the value here. 91+/100.

All merlot. More accommodating than the Haut Genin. Quite suave. Good acid again. 91+/100.

Parker 91-93: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Marjosse comes barreling out of the glass with rambunctious scents of cassis, crushed blackberries and black plum preserves, followed by hints of dark chocolate, anise and tar, plus a fragrant waft of lavender. The medium-bodied palate is soft, juicy and wonderfully refreshing, delivering wonderful poise and expression with a fun burst of pure black fruit on the finish. Delicious! Drink 2024-2030.'

At Saint Martial (Entre deux Mers); named for a pine tree on its grounds, the oldest in Bordeaux; 60% merlot, 20% each of the cabernets. This is so big and bold that I can believe the alcohol statement. It's not hot, just full. Especially for the vintage. Yes, size is its calling card. Some chewy cabernet tannins yet to resolve. Well textured. Very long finish. Aromatic growth to go. 91+/100.

First time in MI in decades; at La Sauve, Entre deux Mers; still owned by Famille Courselle; 70% merlot, 30% cab sauv. 2018 and merlot fruity. Good cab sauv darker fruit element and structural contribution. Well conceived and executed. Persistent aroma and flavor carry through. Acid and tannin tame the vintage exuberance. Eminently well balanced and long lasting. 91/100. One attendee mention of 'black dirt'. That reads Graves rouge to me, so surely a compliment.

2016: At Moulon; 80% merlot, 10% each of the cabernets. It's 2016, so it's firmer. Nice, burnished texture of 2016 claret. Lovely example. Good fruit, composure, and the finest of tannin feels. 90+/100.

At Targon, Entre deux Mers; 60% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 5% cab franc on limestone, clay, and gravel; average age of vines: 35 years. Takes the pedal off the metal. This is truly stylish CLARET. Merlot gives plush filling and the cabernets (and the vintage) good framework. Harmonious; come hither. Equally elegant and gently flowing on the palate. The alcohol is barely perceptible. No heat. 91/100.

Suckling 92; Vinous 90. My notes: At Lalande de Fronsac; daughter of Mauvais Garcon Jean-Luc Thunevin; all merlot, vines average 40 years; aged 11 months in barrels, some new. Well, the garagiste Thunevins make 'em big. No holds barred here. All the extra fruit bounty of 2018, tempered and complexed some by barrel aging and by power. Thoroughly modern claret, New World big and bold. Tannin and astringency need some aging for resolution. 91+/100.

Est. 1705; managed and made by La Gaffeliere's team 90% merlot, 10% cab franc. Frank and fulfilled, well projected merlot emphasis with 2019 ease. Pretty full bodied for vintage and appellation. This has bulked up since last tasted. Aeration is a factor as well as age. Yes, a demonstrative merlot show, so well crafted in the right hands. Well textured and flavorful. The tannins are fine grained and don't preclude present drinking with dinner, though they promise improvement in the cellar. A balanced presentation. Tres claret. 91+/100. The commentators' choice of the Bordeaux AOC quartet tasted this evening. 'Complex, balanced, very classy.'

Vigneron at Rimons, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 25% each of the cabernets; 30 year old vines. Her wines are nothing if not elegant, and this claret suits the series. It's not as sweet and ripe and many a 2018. It has classic claret refinement, moderation. That's an harmonious presentation of varietals. Balance of sweet/acid too. A little fine tannin to resolve, but it won't interfere with table service at present. Bravo. 91+/100.

1 bottle each CHATEAU DUBOIS CLAVERIE Est. 1869; 58% merlot, 32% cab sauv, 10% cab franc. CHATEAU CATHALOGNE 50% each merlot, cab sauv. CHATEAU GRAND MEYNAU. Est. 1915; at Saint Avit de Soulege, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 20% malbec, 10% each of the cabernets. CHATEAU LE BOURDILEY At Souligac, Entre deux Mers; 80% merlot, 20% the cabernets. CHATEAU FRANC COUPLET 60% merlot, 25% cab sauv, 15% cab franc. CHATEAU PONCHARAC At Blaisimon, Entre deux Mers; 80% mlero5t, 10% each of the cabernets. In a branded wood presentation case with map and descriptions.

1 bottle each 17 CHATEAU CURTON LA PERRIERE, 17 CHATEAU DE BERNADON, 16 CHATEAU LA ROSE GADIS. In a branded wood presentation case.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'Rich, ageworthy Semillon combines with crisper Sauvignon Blanc in this satisfyingly ripe wine. Still young, it has a rich, full-bodied future that will keep the wine's freshness in focus. Drink from 2023.'

Decanter 93; Wine Spectator 91; Parker 91: 'The 2019 Carbonnieux Blanc has turned out very nicely, offering up aromas of citrus oil, pear, fresh herbs, clear honey and crisp stone fruit, followed by a medium-bodied, elegantly satiny and incisive palate that's bright and precise, concluding with a saline finish. Bottled under Diam, this is already showing well in a tangy, Sauvignon-driven style. Drink now-2035.'

Second wine of Grand Cru Classe Chateau Latour Martillac. Semillon and sauvignon blanc. Still shy, but clearly full bodied and well crafted. Some barrel influence. Nice lemon/lime and passion fruit flavors. Grand Cru full, even powerful. It would be a shame to serve it now. It will be so much more accomplished a few months down the line. 92+/100.

Proprietor Antoine de Roquefeuil; in the family since the Revolution; on the left bank of the Garonne next to the Graves AOC; 75% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon. Very zingy and incisive ruby red grapefruit aroma. Round, sweet, soft tropical fruit aspects in addition. And cat pee. Yes, passion fruit comes into play. Intensely flavorful and well polished. Quite the nice, new discovery here. Lasting aftertaste, balanced as well. 92/100.

Proprietor Herve Dubourdieu; 60% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vines averaging 35 years; unfiltered. The Dubourdieus are masters of dry semillon. That usual custardy goodness without any earthy drawbacks Conveys semillon fatness and weight, cut and lifted by sauvignon brisk citrus. Muscadelle's green fruit registers too. Oh, and the complete flavor spectrum as described. Dashing and delightful in cool 2021. Has it all together. Most excellent, dude. 92/100.

75% semillon, 20% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vine age 45-48 years; unfiltered. Semillon smoothness, fullness. Suggestion of the others' citrus and green-fruit counter. Still, this is playing it pretty close to the vest, aromatically. More flavor than aroma. Sauvignon fatness, the others' cut. Works nicely on the palate already. Good acidity, length. I think it will deliver more come late summer, early fall. 91+/100.

At La Sauve; 50% sauvignon blanc, 20% each sauvignon gris, muscadelle, 10% semillon. Every vintage this supplies a peacock's tail display of its full EdM varietal range. Besides the foundation sauvignon blanc, there's the plumpness of gris and semillon, the green fruit of muscadelle. Yeah, that ying-yang of crisp blanc and muscadelle versus gris and semillon. Exciting for both aromatic and textural spreads. Vigorous as well as complex this vintage. 92/100. Widely enjoyed by the group. Orders taken.

At Tizac de Curton; owner: Pierre Lurton; old vine sauvignon blanc, sauvignon gris, semillon, and muscadelle. Total entertainment as the varietals parade by in sequence and in step. Generally round and sweetly fruity thanks to the gris and semillon. With further sniffing, the cutting edge of sauvignon and muscadelle comes forth to etch my nostrils. Complete package. Oh, that incisive fruit acidity! While roundness forms its background. Complete varietal spread, very well assembled. Plenty of fruit intensity, breadth, and depth. A four ring circus of EdM white varieties. Tangy finish. Lucien Lurton's heirs are good! 92/100.

Est. 1705; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon; by the winemaker at Chateau La Gaffeliere. More citrusy sauvignon still. Again, the semillon padding. Brisk acid here too. A less shrill, more rounded palate overall. A bit more body. Eminently well balanced. Each begging for a plateau de fruits de mer. 91/100.

Grower at Rimons, Entre deux Mers; 95% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon; 30 year old vines. That's clean as a whistle, modest in alcohol, and doesn't scream sauvignon blanc. Her style preference harkens to old time classicism. Nothing blowsy or overdone. Palate gives added assurance. Not made to impress. Made to be food compatible, which is enough of a positive impression for me. 91/100.

Famille Lesgourgue; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon. This tingles with sauvignon lime, cat, green herbs. Kumquat notions too. From semillon-/ Yeah, both, plus passion fruit. Lovely marriage, very entertaining. And fine balance of sauvignon cut and semillon cushion. Lasting aftertaste. Bravo. 92/100. VERY popular with attendees. 'Lovely Bordeaux nose', 'quite complex', ' great value'. At least two commented on the total absence of sulphur under screwcap--a rarity these days.

80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon; named for the estate's director. What do you know, a screwcap-free dozen! Very nice Bordeaux take on sauvignon blanc. Not too shrill. Tempered by semillon fatness. Citrus and mango meet quince and pineapple. Racy sauvignon acidity; really tart and juicy. Semillon underlayment. Roundness. Pleasing, well crafted cuvee. 91/100.

First time in MI in decades; still owned by Famille Courselle; half each sauvignon blanc, semillon. Cool, clear, fresh, traditional. Likely better at age two than one. A proper set of aromatics, discreetly rendered. Has good textural spiel, harmony, acidity, and mealworthiness. Old reliable Tilly! 91/100.

97% semillon, 3% sauvignon blanc. Aged 16 months in barrels, 20% new. Pineapple and honey. Lots of give already. Boy.; sweet honey, pineapple, custard, currant. Special. 93+/100.

Second wine of 1er Grand Cru Chateau Guiraud; 10-15 year old vines; 65% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc. Brassy color. Always a lot of pineapple in Guiraud wines, and high sauvignon freshness. Moderate lushness of 2017, second wine, estate. Good acid. Harmonious and ageworthy. Honeyed aftertaste. Meets expectations. 92+/100.

50 acres in Haut Barsac; 85% semillon, 10% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; aged in barrels up to 18 months. Barsac's relative coolness and dryness, even in this really ripe vintage. A surprisingly linear Sauternes nose at this stage. Well, the sweetness and honey-peach-pineapple-citrus flavors gush out on the palate. Balanced, lasting. I mean, really good acid for 2015. Not much botrytis. Pretty ambitious price for an unclassified Sauternes. Regardless, Liot has been around a long time, and its wines stay the course. A treat for the group. 92+/100. Tasted 4/27/22. A year later, this was poured at a WCC wine class, and the students were agog. Over the course of 12 months, an already good wine had become great.

Parker 95: 'With coaxing, the pale lemon colored 2016 Coutet slowly unfurls to give a myriad of preserved lemons, pineapple pastry, almond croissant, fresh ginger and lime blossoms scents with nuances of chalk dust, white pepper, star anise and cedar. Rich, seductive and yet exquisitely balanced, the satiny-textured palate has layer upon layer of citrus and savory notions, finishing very long and spicy. Drink 2021-2044.'

Formerly owned by the Fertals, relatives of a Detroit area wine merchant, du Pavillon has been sold to Olivier Fleury. I've had many a previous vintage to compare to this one, and the style remains consistent and the quality high. Nice, rich, fruity, citrus aroma. Plus a peachy taste. Fully up to snuff Ste. Croix, rivaling a Sauternes. Mmm. 93+/100.

Formerly owned by the Fertals, relatives of a Detroit area wine merchant, du Pavillon has been sold to Olivier Fleury. 80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle. I've had many a previous vintage to compare to this one, and the style remains consistent and the quality high, Sweet ripe pineapple, husk, and fig bouquet. Honeyed citrus, peach, and fig flavors. Good acid to balance sweetness. Ready to enjoy, but no need to rush. . Fully up to snuff Ste. Croix, rivaling a Sauternes. Mmm. 93+/100.

80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle; Gold Medal - Concours Mondial des Feminalise. Wow, pineapple, husk, tupelo honey, singed orange peel, and much, much more. I'm afraid I'm running out of time to take it all in. Succulent, honeyed fruit, stature, and surprising sense of power at 12.5%. Sweetness suppresses full display. Will improve for decades. 93+/100.

80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle; Gold Medal - Concours Mondial des Feminalise. Wow, pineapple, husk, tupelo honey, singed orange peel, and much, much more. I'm afraid I'm running out of time to take it all in. Succulent, honeyed fruit, stature, and surprising sense of power at 12.5%. Sweetness suppresses full display. Will improve for decades. 93+/100.

Vignobles Reglat. All semillon. Yellow cast. Sweet honey, lemon curd, and pineapple. Delivers a full Cadillac moelleux statement. Flavors confirm, the honey turning to acacia. Great acid. Full sweetness. A bountiful sweet white Bordeaux for the money. Acid fairly coated in youth. No problem. 94+/100.

Semillon and muscadelle. The semillon macaroon basis, the muscadelle green fruit flair. Lightly sweet. First Bordeaux Moelleux I've tasted. The style used to be limited to the Bordeaux Superieur rank. Pleasing if modest compared to Sauternes. Mild acid. Likely mealtime apps here. Surely priceworthy. 91/100.

Becoming very pretty. Pretty and cool malbec black cherry. Very pure. Certainly fully ripe. A lot of dash and flow. Yeah. 91/100. Weeks later, at Wine Club: Continues to impress. Rich and ripe for 14. Comes forth readily. For a 14 Cahors, plenty of give. 92/100.

Est 1895; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; 25 year old vines. A strong vintage of this. Bright, up front black cherry malbec fruit. Material and tarry depth in support. All in harmony. Suave textured, short of glossy. Grip of fine tannin and good acidity. Burst of flavor at the finale. Yes, one of the best years here. 92/100.

Est. 1895; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; 25 year old vines. Fresh and bright in 2021 and at cellar temperature. This too has a combination of roundness and cut. Shades of some barrel time too. High acid of the vintage. Again, cool service increases the tannin impact. Good flow nonetheless. 91+/100. Improved as it aired and warmed. Well liked by all the commentators. Deemed less modern than usual in 2021 thanks to less overt ripeness and to superior acidity. A supplier rep poured me a sample of this the following week. With more aeration and at a higher temperature, I got to appreciate it in the same context as attendees.

Est. 1830; from young vines on the second terrace above the Lot; all malbec. Also on the cool, reductive side, yet a completely different take given grape variety and AOC. Malbec black fruit. A lot of material on the palate. Fruit flavor, extract, and fine tannin. A lot of Cahors for the money. The group appreciated the value and current appeal. 91+/100.

85% malbec, 15% merlot; from the second terrace; unoaked. Less reductive due to what seems to spell some time in cooperage. More class. Black cherry and pitch assuaged by cask influence. A firmer, more tannic, more backward wine; really not much fun on the palate at this stage. The makings are there. Real Cahors for cellaring. The group agreed this was 'more-ish', and in need of cellaring. 92++/100.

85% malbec, 10% merlot; 5% tannat; from the second, third, and fourth terraces; aged a year in oak cooperage. Markedly heavier bottle. Wow, deep, dark, serious stuff. Complexity from barrel influence. Grand Vin. Big, classy, complex, enduring. Wow, one of the best Triguedina vintages I've tasted. The full, forward fruit of 2018 tempered by dry extract and fine tannin, as well as barrel stay. Purple grandeur. 95+/100.

5 soil types on the property; 80% malbec, 16% merlot, 4% tannat; aged 18 months in oak casks; 2013 just released. Black Wine of Cahors. Oh, and it's a tough guy too. Geez, after 7 plus years, still compact and stingy. The 2012 was much more accommodating last year,/ Well, there's some fruit sweetness on the palate, and an intriguing cedar streak. The tannins are manageable. Overall, quite an achievement this vintage. 91+/100.

2015: Very juicy, ripe black cherry malbec nose. Tres 2015. Yes, black cherry concentrate and tar. Fine tannin. A lovely 2015 take on Cahors. 92/100.

Est. 1887. Cahors stalwart Vigouroux's early drinking cuvee. Well, it's 2018 abundantly fruity and ready to fill the bill. Cherry pie nose, in spades. Yes, the palate is sweetly fruity and generous. Great acid balances the sweet fruit, keeps this wine from getting sloppy. Light tannin on the finish comes with the Cahors territory. Well crafted. 91+/100.

Second wine of Vigouroux's Chateau Mercures, on Cahors' third terrace; 85% malbec, 15% merlot. Gorgeous red violet color. Oh, that's a hefty, full fledged Cahors. And it's just the second wine! Wow, that is ripe and dark fruited and even smoky. Got to have this one. Deep and complicated. Broadening barrel input. Serious stuff. Even more intense black fruit on the palate. And power and extract. Wow wine. Great intro to Cahors. Great form, texture, flavor depth and range. Full, fine grained tannins. Fine acid, balance. So satisfying. Will improve. One panelist noted: 'Best Cahors I've tasted in perhaps a decade.' 93+/100.

Heavy Bottle Award. Blacker color. Ah, the oak adds up to a Grand Vin level of complexity, sophistication. The fruit is stouter too, keeping the oak in tow. Hugely impressive. Great fruit and oak flavor range. Harmonious. Flavor and texture depth and spread. The finest grained of tannins. Lasting aftertaste. Grand Vin indeed. The panel agreed that this deserves to be cellared further. 95+/100.

85% malbec, 15% merlot; aged a year in Alliers oak barrels; Wine Spectator Top 100.

Wine Enthusiast 93 - TOP 100: 'Mainly Tannat with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine comes from the home estate of Madiran leader Alain Brumont. The wine balances bold tannins from all three grapes with the power of black fruits, acidity and density. It needs to age and will be ready from 2022.'

Wine Enthusiast 91/100. My notes: All tannat. And the dark color spells it. Wow, that's a dark, sweet, and meaty tannat. Delivers concentration without accompanying toughness. Bravo. Again, the tannins are fine, non-aggressive. Amplitude and balance. Deal. 91/100.

Brocol grape variety. Unfined, unfiltered. Firmness and darkness of the vintage. Good fruit concentration. Great 14 acid, black fruit tenacity. My mouth is getting acid really right today, and it's illuminating. No tannin issues. Delicious wine with food, or can be cellared. 92/100.

Famille Beraut for 300 years; merlot, cabernet, tannat, syrah, malbec, pinot noir; vines averaging 30 years. Very sweet, round, and easy red fruit amalgam. Flashes of flair and depth. More dryness, acidity, and even astringency than the nose suggests. Renders it more 'serious' and mealworthy. Balanced finish. Deal. 91+/100.

50% colombard, 25% each ugni blanc, gros manseng. There is a little SO2 light dusting at opening. Varieties get through, especially peachy gros manseng. Flavors unsuppressed, which is the norm. Round gros manseng takes the fore again in mild 2022. The acidity is perfectly adequate though. Juicy aftertaste. Perennial fans will be pleased. 91/100. Popular with attendees. The sulphur blew off quickly. Commentators both noted gros manseng's positive presence.

Olivier Gessler, vigneron at Panjas; 50% colombard, 30% ugni blanc, 15% gros manseng, 5% sauvignon blanc. Clean and crisp, with green colombard and ugni leading the way. Sense of manseng plumpness behind. Palate more aromatic, the manseng and sauvignon throwing in more support. Deliciously well balanced. Both cut and light padding. Better than the 2020. Better acid. 91/100.

2021: Half each sauvignon blanc, colombard. I believe it used to be all colombard. Sauvignon enriches this nicely. Maybe all colombard would have been too lean in cool 2021. Well, there's good cut here. I mean, both varieties are known for crispness. Strange to see sauvignon in something of a 'softener' role. I take pleasure in the perplexing paradox. 91/100.

Owned by the Beraut family for 300 yrs; 80% gros manseng, 10% each chardonnay, petit manseng. Oh, what an inspiring nose! Ever peachy mansengs to the fore, with the ultimate apricot lift of the petit. Chardonnay adds a yellow delicious apple note. So gently sweet and so brightly elevated. The flavors, which add in mango and green tea, last forever, and spread out across the palate. Always worth a detour. 94+/100.

Famille Duffour. Est. 1955. 80% colombard, 20% gros manseng. Good colombard cut and manseng padding. Yes, really good cut for 2022. A peachy gros manseng flavor along with colombard green fruit. Exceptional balance. Long finish. 91/100.

Deep, sweet gros manseng peachiness cut by sauvignon blanc citricity. Mmm, that balance of manseng plumpness and sauvignon acid race. Will continue to put on weight. In tune with the series. 92+/100.

Combo of fruity and vinous. Juicy purple berries: loganberry, boysenberry. Medium bodied. Attractive flow. Mild tannin. Good acid. Flavorful. An intriguing sleeper. Would like to know more about its background. 90/100.

This is more involved than simply vinous, but I can't put a finger on the varietal makeup. It's not fruity or floral. There's a creamy aspect. Yes, creamy fruit something. Entirely pleasing, and like nothing else. 90/100.

Est. 1890; family estate at St. Aubin de Luigne; from green and black slate soils on either side of the Layon. Sweet and sassy smelling. Almost heart on sleeve except that there is pretty fair power and a deep, dryish core. There's an appealing freshness to it too. That fresh theme continues on the palate, and, as it warms in the mouth, flavors form. Balance of acidity and padding. Wants food. On the whole, a very nice definition of its AOC at a very reasonable price. The group was impressed with its accuracy, overall quality, and great value. Orders taken. 92+/100.

55 year old cabernet franc vines; aged in amphorae. Hearty red violet color. Freshness of Loire cab franc, sweet ripeness of the vintage, as well as its substance. Confident, comfortable poise. Body, acid, tannin, and ageworthiness well beyond the more approachable 2018. This is 2020. Old vines concentration. All makes sense. All requests another year or two in the cellar. 92+/100. 'Really good and typical; just what it should be.' 'Dark, ripe cherry and raspberry; excellent cabernet franc; meaty, beefy; red wine of the night.'

31 year old vines in silty sand over limestone. Oh, boy, is this big, generous, and forthcoming this vintage. Ripe and concentrated Loire cab franc red raspberry. No greenery. Yes, luxuriously padded and smooth on the palate. No shortage of acid for balance. Flavorful finish goes on and one. This one's ready to take to the table. 92/100. Wine of the Night for many attendees. Orders taken.

Cooperative est. 1957 by 40 winegrowers. Brisk, cool, and fresh Loire cab franc. Spot on. Nose develops surprising ripeness and roundness for a cool vintage. Good 2021 acidity of course. Not tart though. Like the nose, the palate spells a handsome degree of ripeness. All is right with this Saumur rouge. 91/100. Widely liked by attendees for good ripeness, lack of vegetal aspects, present drinkability, and, especially, price.

Sand and gravel soils. Very dark red violet--exceptional. And the nose is fully as concentrated as the color. Full fledged, fully intense Loire cab franc at no doubt a bargain price. Wow. Rich red raspberry flavor. Plenty of extract and a degree of fine tannin to resolve. Still, the flavor pours through. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 92+/100,

Est. 1822; vines planted from 1967-1980; on sand and clay. Oh, boy, is that one super fresh and fruity cab franc, just as the maker intended. About the best and most expressive vintage of this I've nosed. Full 2021 acidity. At opening, the tartest of these I've tasted. Apply accordingly at the table. 91/100. High marks from attendees for varietal expression and immediacy. No mention of the tartness I found, as this rounded out with aeration.

80% grown in calcareous soil, 20% in gravel. Man, sweet as a nut. I mean it even smells nutty, like trail mix. Palate very dry and tannic though. About the most tannic Chinon I've tasted. Full acid too. And power and sweetness. Cellar it. 91+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'This walled vineyard dates to medieval times. It has produced a richly textured wine with smokiness to go with the still-young tannins. Blackberry fruits and acidity bring a contrast of freshness at the end.'

2017: Vineyard on clay and limestone. Rather close and tart to start, but true to its cherry-suggestive name. Nose sweetens up with aeration. Dry and tannic on entry. Fruit character and padding come on. Good ager. 91+/100.

On clay-limestone in southwest Chinon, bordering Saumur Champigny. Wow, that's a full and pungent Chinon cab franc! Red raspberry, bramble, and leafy pepperiness. The palate is equally full and expressive. Well textured. Tannin level requests more bottle age. It will be rewarded. 93+/100.

Est. 1976; historic cellars beneath the fortress of Chinon; 35 year old vines on gravel. Something feral about this, and I like it. For the vintage, fairly bulky. I can sense the vintage acidity, but also a large degree of mass, solidity, largesse this vintage. Plouzeau's Chinons have trended in that direction lately. Well, no lack of 2021 acid here! Again, the feral impression. Yes, this has unusual weight, concentration, texture. Positively mouthfilling. The tannins don't get in the way. However, I'd like to see a few more months in bottle for more aromatic spread. Plenty of extract and some fine tannin. Not an elegant take on Chinon. For fairly hearty fare, say game birds. 91+/100. Huge favorite; case orders taken. An attendee who visits Plouzeau frequently surmised that the superior cuvees probably joined this foundation wine in cool, wet 2021.

From sand and gravel soils at Savigny en Veron; 35 year old vines. Oh, that's a warm and rich one. With a lot of red raspberry cab franc character besides. Inviting. Cool to the taste. The modest alcohol is appreciated. Plenty of flavor. There is a little tannin and astringency yet, so the palate is not quite as ready to rumble as the nose. Lasting finish. A group favorite. 93+/100.

Est. 1693; from sandy alluvial soil near the Vienne. Bright red violet. Fresh and cool. Reserved. Core of ripe fruit sweetness. Good 2021 acidity. Plenty of material; good grip. Flavors coming on now. Balanced and mealworthy. Age a few more weeks to months for additional aromatic range and depth. 91+/100. Or hours. Many attendee positive comments on its varietal character two hours later, such as 'screams cab franc', 'classic cab franc'. and 'lovely, long cab franc finish'. Attendees found both fruit ripeness and vintage acidity, in harmony.

4th generation estate; 30 year old vines; 8 days' carbonic maceration. Loire gamay lift and levity. Spot on cherry-raspberry aromas and mild alcohol welcome greeting. Surprisingly well structured and filled for region and vintage. Light tannin adds texture. Plenty of flavor. In tune with the series and boasting superior 2021 acidity. 91/100. The sleeper of the set. Wine of the Night for several; universally enjoyed.

35% each gamay, cot (malbec), 30% pinot noir; on flint (silex); native yeasts. Cooler and racier even than the 2020. Goes with the vintage territory. Lots of lift, flair, aromatic nuance. Blueberry and blackberry. Mixed peppercorns. Yow, excitement!/ Less flavor than aroma range. A little tight laced in youth still. High 2021 acidity is nicely coated. This should air well. 92/100. And it did. Attendees judged it ready to drink following aeration.

Deep, dark, and intense with 2015 ripeness and concentration. Yes, really meaty for Loire pinot noir. Thanks to the vintage. Even some tannin. 91+/100.

Its own thing, and I think a lot of that has to do with barrel aging. Most Sancerre rouge I see is first year, at most two or three years old. And not barrel aged. Decidedly more revealing than previous vintages tasted, some of them bearish by nature. Very cedary-spicy. Full bodied and textured. Clearly barrel influenced. A very, very exciting take. We can sell a lot of this. Brian is crazy about it. 93+/100.

4 generation estate; gneiss and granite subsoil; 15-35 year old vines; 7 months on lees with regular stirring. Crisp and jaunty 2021 take on Auriere. Always the classic styling that makes it one of the best values in its field--or in the entire dry white wine field for that matter. Great texture really balloons it up on the palate. The flavors buoy it up too. Vintage and appellation acidity and the always tender core of the variety. Classic.91/100. Attendees were excited about this one. Auriere is a perennial group favorite and best buy.

Vines over 30 years old; 7 months on lees. Lovely nose, varietal and pure. Forthcoming, reasonably full. And proper for the appellation, while making its own statement. Racy fruit acidity. Good flavor intensity and a long finish. More to come. Well liked by the group. 92+/100.

Est. 1915; average vine age: 36 years . Lots of green fruit, moss, and underbrush. Always a classic. Really forward and full flavored in cooperative 2020. Good acid; tender core. Pretty good length too. Sits right. Tells the tale. 91/100.

35 year old vines on green gneiss over clay; aged 6 months on lees in concrete cisterns. Full of mossy greenery, damp forest floor. Ideal. Full feel and flavor in harmony with nose. Good acid and a tender muscadet core. Classic. Very popular with the group. Orders taken. 91+/100.

11.5%; 4th generation; domaine bottling since 2005; lieu dit La Butte; on serpentine and quartz; 50 year old vines. A screwcap free evening! Wow, that soars with cool, green and yellow fruit aromatics. Comes right at ya. Oodles of personality. The extra body and fruit push of a Grandlieu Muscadet. Aromatic breadth and depth. Spot on. Mouthfilling flavor and texture. Better acidity than it showed a couple of months back. Well balanced. Welcome clinging finish. 93/100.

11.5%; granite parcel at La Butte; 20-60 year old vines. Not as buxom and forthcoming. More minerally. Nice tete a tete. A little bigger boost of acidity, and that minerality adding to the texture and dryness. More of a keeper. 92+/100.

2019: Raphael Luneau, 9th generation. That's alert, alive and brimful of fruit. Just surges forth in an eager to please manner. Full and round on the palate. Some peels astringency and a metallic ring on the finish. A singular Muscadet. 92/100.

A very fresh, clear vision of muscadet with growing aromatics as it warms. Cool green streak through it and some of the notions of tenderness of the vintage. Good mineral cling on entry. Green acidity, that vintage padding. This is real entertainment, as well as a refreshing quaff. 91/100. Continued to gain in aromatic interest as it aired.

19th century roots; vineyards on sandy gravel over granite and schist; vines 25-60 years old. A sense of proportion here too. And the green fruit generosity that marks this wine. Plus vigorous 2021 cut. Yes, it's cool and crisp, even lightly astringent in 2021, with the usual amplitude showing. Bargain as always. 91/100. Attendees liked this one too, as its flavor intensity continued to grow with aeration.

Cooperative of only 10 member families, all within Le Pallet, one of the AOC's seven Crus. Boy, that is one fruity muscadet, especially considering the cold vintage. Oh, it's plenty crisp too. Just intensely aromatic of muscadet's green stuff. Flavorful too, if less exuberant. A nice salty tang to it. Big time entertainment for the price. 92/100. Attendees agreed this had an unusually assertive muscadet aroma profile. For the best. Orders taken.

More reserved than usual. Pure and high pitched green fruit. Relatively restrained. The usual good minerality here. And good acid, extract, dryness. It had more to say aromatically by the time the group tasted it. Well liked. 91+/100.

2018: Fullness, power, personality. Sous bois and terrarium muscadet classic. Indeed, full and well textured. Good acid and tender core. Great vintage of this. 91/100.

Yves Bretonniere, 4th generation vigneron; versants = hillsides; on schist; average 30 year old vines; oldest 70 years; all selection massale. Native yeasts. Aged on lees through winter. Does have an old vines fullness to it. Dry and nicely tart in 2021. Lasting acid spiel. All is in order. 91/100.

Est. 1820; chenin blanc; sandy-clay soil. Oh, that's creamy. Some banana ferment residual yet, but it's not just-peeled banana; it's banana creme pie. Chenin quince, lime, and green melon too. All of the above. Great acid. Considering it was just shipped, it seems well enough poised to be in ship-shape by summer. Unique and intriguing at this stage. 91+/100.

Spot on quince and lime Anjou chenin. Cool and pure. There's material and depth here, and fine acid and grip. Altogether impressive effort from an acknowledged fine source. 92/100.

From the estate's Clos Saint Yves vineyard, situated between Clos du Papillon and Roche aux Moines. 35 year old vines; aged 9 months on lees. Honied nose, as well it should be. Ripe quince, acacia, and schist terroir too. The size, the sprawl, the complexity of a chenin from Savennieres. Very large in the mouth. Full of dry extract. About as big as dry chenin blanc gets. Awesome presence. Yes, lots of flavor and texture interests here. Carries good form too. And minerality. This is no heart on sleeve 2018. At least a couple of years from its best, I'd venture. Long, detailed aftertaste with textural cling, burnish. 94+/100.

Est. 1996; single vineyard; 40 year old vines on clay and limestone. Limey take on chenin blanc distinct from Anjou and Vouvray terroirs. Despite the cool vintage, this has above average heft in this series. Quince to the fore, and limey minerality. Love the superior acidity of this vintage too. Long, satisfying finish. Filling out as it moves along. 92+/100.

Chenin blanc vineyard on southwest facing slopes near the village of Meron. Lovely, soft, forward 22 chenin nose makes all the sense in the world. Melon, lime, quince. Round and tart at once. Balanced. Flavors confirm aromas if less intense. One of the better vintages of this old reliable. 91/100. Appreciated for both its varietal accuracy and bargain price.

30-60 year old vines; indigenous yeasts. Quieter, as expected. I put it in this order expecting a little sweetness. Nose is dry. Quince and lime well up as it warms in the mouth. It's pretty damn near dry. There's a forgiving softness to it. Good acid. Good extract. Versatile at the table. Good vintage of this. Bound to give more as it warms and airs. And it did; though the group too noted that it will yield even more as the months pass. 92+/100.

Est. 1984; 35 year old vines on clay and limestone; indigenous yeasts; aged 11 months on lees. Quince, lime, calcaire classic. While each vintage has been running on the dry side of late, this one has less 'gras' than the last three. Very racy indeed. Not much tendre to this sec. The acid cuts right through it. Refreshment and relief. Handsome image of Vouvray. The group thought so too. 93/100.

2021: 45 year old vines on clay and silex; fermented and aged in foudres 11 months on lees; 16 g/l RS. Slightly sweeter and softer than the regular cuvee, while remaining 2021 brisk. The Vouvray take on chenin is not as crystal clear here, somewhat wrapped in RS. Larger in the mouth than the tout court. The old vines and their likely lower yields add more dry extract concentration, and this foils the modest sweetness. Vouvray chenin flavors are more clearly and intensely expressed than are the aromas at this stage. Following aeration, more aromatic revelations formed, and this one proved even more popular with attendees. 93+/100.

Dry, dusty nose. Quince to the fore. Promising nasal texture play. The palate is equally dry, chalky. Calcaire talking. Lime joins quince. Quite the fine cooperative effort. Got to have it. 92/100.

The cool vintage does this justice. One of the most aromatic, characterful, and delightful vintages of this in years. Yes, the delicious, sprightly acidity of 2021 makes the driest impression yet. Quince and lime Vouvray ID. Must have. 92/100.

Tuffeau, clay, and flint soils; 30-40 year old vines; previous vintages Domaine Vigneau-Cheveau; probably had to purchase some neighbors' grapes in short-crop 2021. Good quince and melon nose of chenin. No signs of botrytis in a sec rendition in a cold vintage. Well, the acid is great of course. And not only that, there's lots of extract adding texture. This is certainly a fine dinner Vouvray. I'm thinking quenelles de brochet. 92/100. This sleeper turned into a group favorite. Orders taken.

85% sauvignon blanc, 15% chardonnay. Loaded with pink grapefruit. lime, and passion fruit aromatics. Chardonnay adds more of a textural filler aspect. Again, sauvignon citrus and soft tropics dominate the flavor. Nice and tangy fruit acidity. Yes, chardonnay fills out the mouthfeel. Long, flavorful finish. Well crafted cuvee. Enjoy it now and throughout the warm months. 92/100. Very popular with attendees, who agreed it would make a 'great summer wine'.

Bright and legit sauvignon character, still youthfully constrained. More varietal character on the palate, and really good fruit acidity. Opens up on the palate. Good price. 90/100.

A limey take on lower Loire sauvignon, bright and accurate. Not pushy. Crystal clear house style. Varietal clarity, lower Loire subtleness, vintage forgiveness. Unobtrusive seafood and salad mate. 91/100. Green herbs emerged as it aired. Long finish noted, as well as food-worthiness.

Oh, this is sharp, zingy, tropical, penetrating. Best vintage yet. Yes, the cut and the padding combined. Big time spiel and flavor intensity. 93/100.

Cooperative of 20 winegrowers founded in 1957 at St. Romain sur Cher. Bright and incisive example of Touraine sauvignon. Both sweet and tingly smelling. Briskness and basis. Juicy citrus and gooseberry. Spring water minerality. Pleasing fluidity of a Touraine sauvignon. Makes it a pretty thirst-quenching spring-summer sort of wine. 91/100.

2021: On the east bank of the Cher near Chateau de Chenonceau. Wow, this is a vivid and amazing combo of citrus and soft tropical fruits. Yin and yang. All magnified as it warms in the mouth. Add grass and struck flint. It's not as concentrated in body as a Sancerre, but, my goodness, the extent of its flavor range is truly exciting. As well as entertaining. And that 2021 acidity great. 92/100.

Slightly brassy - surprise. Some sauvignon gris present-/ Pungent, penetrating gooseberry and Med herb. Unique. Exceeds mere citrus. This is wild. 92/100.

4th generation estate on the south bank of the Cher. A good splash of sauvignon citrus, though less incisive than the high acid 2021. Soft tropical fruits emerge with warming and aeration. Again, a good sauvignon wash of citrus and its accompanying acidity. Likely to have wider appeal and usefulness that the 2021, which hurt so good. Another winner in the series. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees, who noted the vintage's richness, smoothness. Said to improve into the next day.

Est. 1995; cellar at Bue; 23 parcels in Sancerre and Quincy; chalky limestone, sandy loam, gravelly loam. Well, that's a unique and intriguing sauvignon blanc from its alleged birthplace. It's slightly richer and rounder than Portier's Quincy and certainly distinct from those of other Loire Region de Sauvignon AOCs. More orange than yellow or green peeled citrus. Gooseberry too. Yes, this is softer on the approach than Portier's, while portraying plenty of 2021 acid race. Come hither. Its own thing. 92/100. Well liked by attendees.

2021: Domaine Jean-Michel Sorbe, acquired by Mellot in 1999; west of Sancerre; cradle of sauvignon blanc. Cool, crisp, and penetrating. Upholds its reputation for a shriller take on sauvignon than Sancerre. Grass, gooseberry, citrus. Yes, sauvignon cut to the quick. Medium bodied, well balanced, ready to serve. The group agreed about its distinctiveness from Sancerre. 91/100.

Est. 1991; on limestone, gravel, sand. Oh, that Quincy sauvignon shrillness comes right at ya! What cut! No mistaking this for a Sancerre. Billowing sauvignon citrus and passion fruit flavors. Just can't quiet down this garrulous guy. Balanced and lasting. As good a Quincy as I can remember. 93/100.

Winegrowers since the 17th century; based in Menetou-Salon, with 60 acres there and in Sancerre and Pouilly Fume; Kimmeridgian limestone; aged 6 months on lees. Unique Menetou take on sauvignon blanc. Not as shrill as Quincy, not as rich as Pouilly Fume, and more minerally than Sancerre. Sits just right. The AOC is so clear and cool in its green citrus character. Well balanced; just the right level of acidity. 16.8. 'Lovely minerality! Long lemony finish.'

At Sury en Vaux; 50% clay-limestone, 30% stony limestone, 20% flint; vines average 25 yeas/ Some sulphur suppression at opening. Pinches off the flavor too. Decent acid for 2022. Air and age. Aired well, so attendee ratings went up. The aromatics remained subtle. Growing senses of structure and minerality noted. 91+/100.

2019: 10th generation; at Chavignol. Very stony. Wet stones nose. Runs deep and secretive. Brisk citrus hovers. Brisk indeed. Citrus and soft tropical fruits. Ringing acidity. Good body. Lasting, balanced finish. A group favorite. 93/100.

2020: This sizzles! Vibrant, alive, penetrating, persistent citrus and herb melange. The palate too is alive with flavor and acid tingle. Very long finish. And the price hasn't gone through the roof like a lot of Sancerres. Must have arrived after the tariff was lifted. I'm completely taken with this. 93/100.

15 hectares over 50 plots; 40 year old vines; from a diversity of AOC soil types; small percentage aged in seasoned cooperage. Lovely, dainty lemon and lemon blossom stuff. 22 ease, comfort, allure. Yes, this lithe, creamy, floral. Brighter, sharper fruit acidity than the nose suggests. More race and vigor than when last tasted. Long, harmonious finish. Prime time. For now. 93/100.

2021: 40 year old vines above the winery at Verdigny; 20% aged in seasoned puncheons. Grapefruit and anise scented. Brisk 2021 acidity foretold by the nose. The flavor is full, accurate, and appealing. In fact, damn near perfect. Besides complex and exciting. 93/100.

At Bois l'Abbaye - Bue; 35-40 year old vines on the slopes Grand Chemarin, Petit Chemarin, Chene Marchand. Relative richness of the Bue slopes. Indeed, this is quite the big boy, emulating if not quite matching Jean-Max Roger's. Ripe and round and flavorful in 2022. Plenty of body and texture. A certain peachiness that carries one into a Pouilly Fume. Rallying acidity at the end to supply welcome balance. And length. Good show. Worth the price, which is no longer 'premium' for Sancerre these days. 93/100.

Cooperative with vineyards on all three of Sancerre's principal soil types.Though this proved reluctant upon opening, it steadily became more revealing with aeration, even into the next day. Predicted to improve further over the coming weeks. 'The real deal bistro style.' 'Mineral depth and some reticent gooseberry.' Grapefruit and gunflint on the nose.' 91+/100.

Brisk and vital, while rounding out, filling out a little over the months. Volume and cut both. This is at a sweet spot. Full and lasting citrus flavors. 93/100.

2021: Wow, 2021 dash! Brisk citricity. Lack of those soft tropical fruits in this cool vintage. Cuts to the quick. Yes, indeed, this is racy. Some passion fruit flavor chimes in. Great sweet/acid balance. Long finish. Delish. 93/100.

At Chavignol; one of four single vineyard cuvees; 50 year old vines in pebbly limestone soil. Plenty bright and brisk, even nearing age two and from a mellow vintage. There is an old vines sense of fortitude. Yes, old vines concentration, extract. Large in the mouth. Fully well balanced and ready to apply. Long, flavorful, textured finish. 92/100.

A style apart. Emphasizes freshness, briskness. Nostril penetrating. Always is. Plenty of acid and body here too. More of a citrus than peach leaning. Damn good. Indeed, a highlight in the series. 93/100.

Vineyards in Chavignol and Sancerre. Not effusivly fragrant, but takes up lots of space. There's that sauvignon ID. Great acid in 2021 also. 92/100.

At Verdigny; dispersed vineyards on silex, caillottes, and terres blanches.

At Maimbray; on Marne clay-limestone; unfiltered. Coy at opening but clearly confident. Well proportioned. Oh, this is ENTIRELY well proportioned!/ Something of the fruit tenderness of 2022 that is nonetheless cut through by vigorous fruit acidity. Very long, clinging aftertaste, especially texture wise. Another champion in tune with the series. 93+/100. Became more revealing after 2 hours' aeration. Thus, very popular with the group. Usually is.

Clay-limestone soil laced with stones (caillottes) in the townships of Bue, Amigny, and Sancerre. Both fresh and full. Harmonious amalgam of vintage, terroir, and winemaker characteristics. Boy, the aromas just keep pouring forth. Cool and flavorful. Sneaky acidity builds in the back to perform a balancing act with the wine's ample dryness and body. He's done it again. 93/100. Big attendee fave. 'Just superb; perfect; great acid; just wow!' 'White wine of the night.'

2021: 45 acres on argille-calcaire surrounding the chateau; owned by Langlois-Chateau since 2016. Dry and dusty sauvignon aroma. Pointed and penetrating. Unique. Yeah, this is 2021 cutting and clean as a whistle. Gooseberry comes on in the back. Real lemony tang and 2021 acidity. Great fish wine. Not fancy. Just good Sancerre at a great price these days. The group deemed it a good value. 92/100.

25 year old vines surrounding Chavignol; native yeasts; aged on lees 4-6 months; unfined. Understated aroma. Seems crisp enough. Well, there's more expression, more feel and flavor and 2021 acid race. 91/100. Enjoyed by the group.

2020: Lees aging until June. Both sweet and sprightly. Leaps out of the glass. A treat. Wow, sweet, flashy, vigorous. Complete Sancerre. Yikes! 94/100.

I visited this burly ex-rugger some 35 years ago; today, his daughter runs the show. Light sulphur lid at opening. Hints of peachy Fume sauvignon peek about the corners. As usual, more expressive on the palate, where the white peach essence comes through clearly. And silex terroir. Good acidity, balance, underlayment. Really rallies on the palate. Blossomed for the group an hour later. Well liked. 92/100.

Wine Spectator 91/100 ($30). My notes: 5 generation estate at Loges; small stones over limestone and clay; 30 year old vines. Natural yeasts. 5 months on barrel lees. A little understated at opening. Has the makings of a good cool year Region de Sauvignon white. More body and sauvignon citricity (especially lime) as it warms in the mouth. Not so peachy a Pouilly sauvignon this vintage. Well balanced, with great acid of course. 91+/100. After aeration, it developed its innate peachy aspect.

85% pinot noir, 15% gamay; Gold Medal ? Gilbert & Gaillard. This does the job. Rich, round pinot noir suggestive of fruit from both northern and southern limits of the region. I mean, there's a crisp edge and plush center. And the gamay supplies additional vivacity. Wow, bright and spicy cherry and clove flavors. Anything but traditional; everything about delightful. Deal! 91/100.

Dark red violet 2020 color. Fresh and cool, even ventilating. Defines its appellation. 2020 purple-black fruit. Juicy and flavorful. Good acid. Lasting feel and flavor. 91/100.

12%. From the lower slopes of Chorey les Beaune; vine age: 45 years; 1 year in seasoned barrels; unfiltered. Tartrate crystals on the cork--a good sign. Freshness and briskness of the vintage. Underlying richness and concentration of old vines fruit. Red raspberry and cherry; strawberry. Not at all tart. The acid is ripe, and so is the fruit. No tannin issues. Well balanced. Serve or cellar options. 92+/100. Everyone liked the wine, the price, and the 'ready to serve' invitation. Red Wine of the Night for one attendee.

14%. From the lower slopes of Chorey les Beaune; vine age: 45 years; 1 year in seasoned barrels; unfiltered. Bigger, more solid, more powerful than the 2021 tasted last week. I can believe the alcohol statement. Glad the 2021 is still prominent in recent memory. The pair is exemplary of the stylistic vintage differences. Barrel suggestions offered. Full, flavorful, quite strong again. Moderate, fine grained tannin. Less appeal than the 2021 at present; greater cellar potential.92+/100. Attendees at both tastings were split over which vintage was favored.

Est. 17th century; 40-70 year old vines; aged a year in seasoned oak barrels. Purple cast. Purple 2020 fruit. Chalonnaise density and resin. Young. Yeah, still a block. Chewy material. Loaded, but at least months from spread and softness, maybe a year or so. 91++/100.

At Gevrey Chambertin; winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; aged in seasoned barrels of Alliers and Nevers oak. Nice and black and plummy Cote de Nuits take on pinot. How does he keep putting out these ultra early releases that already have their @#%& together-/ Great acid. Medium bodied. Some astringency in the back. Light, fine grained tannin. So it's not so all together yet after all. 91+/100.

From Cote de Nuits terroir. Substantial, especially for 2017. Meaty. Barrel aging extras. Rich and large for the vintage. Really has the goods. Full bodied. 92+/100.

Est. 2019 by the Henri Gouges family to extend its talents beyond the borders of its Nuits Saint Georges estate; from the base of the vineyard Des Petits Chaliots at Nuits Saint Georges. Cork reads 'Bourgogne Cote d'Or'. Dark purple color typical of a Gouges wine. Oh, this is sweet and all enveloping, especially for 2020. Spicy too. Barrel influenced in the best way. My first Gouges negoc wine. I'm impressed. It's not as backward as the young estate wines. Yes, lusher, more forward. 20 structure and tannin all the same. Deal. 94+/100.

2 acre vineyard bordering Chambolle Musigny; barrel aged, 30-50% new depending on vintage; unfined, unfiltered. Some 2020 retarded nature to start but quickly sweetens up. Black Nuits fruit. Gevrey forthright plus Chambolle elegant. Complex, classy, superb. 93+/100. The panel went ape for this one. Wine of the Night.

Vineyard on clay in Chambolle Musigny commune, planted in the 1960s; 25% whole clusters; indigenous yeasts; 12 months in barrels, 25% new; unfiltered;. Oh, this is deep, serious, complicated. Definitely barrel inflected. To the extent that the oak needs more time to settle in. It still silences village and pinot tales. A big mouthful of sweet fruit and solid, tannic oak. One loaded babe. No way this is going anywhere but straight to the cellar. This aired well over the next couple of hours, revealing more Cbambolle perfume. 93+/100.

Vines planted between 1956 and 1965 at Premeaux-Prissey; 20% barrel aged a year, 10% of the barrels new. Speaks of Nuits St. Georges area purple plum fruit. Holding back a lot in reserve at opening. It has good 2019 flow. Just needs more aeration and/or bottle age for aromatic fulfillment. The tannins are ultra fine. It remained reserved over the coming hours. Cellar it. 91++/100. Tasted 10/27/21

Made from parcels in Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%). Much paler color than the norm. Maybe the palest in the series. Ah, but that belies a pinot fruit richness and roundness. And exceptional BRIGHTNESS in 2021. A joy to sniff. Another good year for this cuvee. Yes, cherry, creme, white chocolate. Great acid in 21 of course. I don't miss the extra weight. This is alluring, and ready to serve. 92/100. Attendees agreed with my assessment.

Made from parcels in Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%). Since nosing the 2018 after more bottle age, this one is relatively enclosed in youth upon opening. Two hours later, the nose spread out all over the place to become a group favorite. The palate offers a peacock's tail range of terroir nuances and seemingly some barrel extracts. Group descriptions include 'The read deal and a real bargain. Super flavorful and really Burgundian. Just wonderful, especially at the price. Deep and long.' 92+/100.

Jurassic limestone; at Tonnerre; native yeasts; half aged in seasoned oak cooperage. Neon red violet color. 2022 lends a measure of soft, friendly, forward fruit to what is in the Tonnerre area usually a more austere style of pinot. Unique and appealing. Palate confirms the relatively fruit forward styling, while the acid is full and brisk, as it should be. Fine tannin completes the balanced textural attractions. Markedly different from the 2021, yet just as virtuous in its own way. 92+/100. Loved by the commentators: 'Great Burgundian nose', 'Lovely wine', 'Great price'.

From 50 year old vines near Gevrey Chambertin; yields 2 tons per acre. Plummy Nuits pinot color. 2020 and Gevrey stout stuff. Signs of barrel elevage. The most compact of the three vintages 2018-2020. Wow, fully packed with sweet pinot fruit and terroir and old vines structure. Good acid; relatively melted tannins for the vintage. Will reward cellaring with additional bottle bouquet complexity. 92+/100. Loved by all. 'Serious, complex, youthful, balanced, village level quality'. Orders taken.

From 50 year old vines near Gevrey Chambertin; yields 2 tons per acre. Not much nose. Much more texture and flavor than aromatic presence. A solid, somewhat tannic northern Cote de Nuits pinot, a little foursquare at this juncture. Good form for aging, and fine tannin as well. 91+/100.

Est. 1967 at Morey Saint Denis; all Cote de Nuits fruit; average vine age: 50 years; 20% whole clusters; aged in amphorae; unfined, unfiltered. Bright, cheery red violet. Purple plum and bing cherry Nuits pinot ID. Magnien styling meets 2020 dark fruit heartiness. 2020 dark peels extract concentration. There's a certain charm here, but the vintage's black fruit concentration remains to the fore. There's a lot packed in here. I surmise it will cellar well. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Perfumed, this red delivers aromas of eastern spices, dried rose, cherry, strawberry and licorice. Layered and silky, with fine harmony and a lingering aftertaste of spice, floral and fruit accents. Best from 2025 through 2040. $45.'

4-generation winegrowers that began domaine bottling in 1981; vineyard high on the slope; 50+ year old vines on Comblanchien limestone. Oh, it that fresh, lifted, and forthcoming. An exceptionally buoyant Marsannay. Altitude and limestone contributions. Relatively soft and pliant for 2020. This flows gently already. Flavors build as it warms in the mouth. No reason to postpone gratification except for the sake of more aromatic intensity, range, depth, and complexity. The tannins are melted. 94+/100. Everybody's Wine of the Night.

40+ year old vines on marl in Couchey; aged in barrels, 25% new. Marl, lower elevation, and more southerly locale give more body to this than found in last week's Boivins. Less elegance, more heft. Well, there is Collotte charm on the palate. Sweet core, good framework, skillfully interwoven oak aspects. No two alike. The first choice of the 20 Collotte Marsannay set for cellar augmentation. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for most attendees.

4-generation winegrowers that began domaine bottling in 1981; proposed for Premier Cru; 50+ year old vines in Couchey on crinoidal limestone. More robust than the 2019. Deep, rich, round pinot with a hint of oak complexity. Old vines and 'Premier Cru' ample. This delivers. Great flavor and acid ring. This really defines fine Marsannay rouge. The tannins are fine grained and well coated. Cellaring will generate a 'wow' bouquet. 93+/100. Very popular. One commentator's Wine of the Night. Orders taken.

Winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; vineyard on the south side of the AOC, near Mazis; aged in barrels, 20% new; unfiltered. Full red-black color for burgundy. Luxurious, well padded pinot with purple and black Nuits cote fruits and not a small measure of oak's warm spices. Sweet and enticing. Good acidity. A measure of very fine tannin. At 12.5%, I'm not getting a lot of Gevrey power and stature. Regardless, this guy may be on to something. A pleasure to drink now, really. Quelle surprise! 93+/100.

Misa Imports private label for wines of Domaine Bertrand Amboise; 45 year old vines in five parcels; aged in barrels, 70% new. Plush red violet color. NSG black fruited. Plummy. Oak complex that augments rather than dominates. Classic to AOC. Good power and presence. Sweet fruit. Dry fruit and oak tannins. 2020 framework. Good makings here. 93+/100. I feared this would come across too oaky for attendees. Indeed, it did for one. For the rest: Wine of the Night.

Four-generation estate; highest vineyard of Chorey, sandwiched between Savigny and Aloxe; 16 months in barrels; unfined. By comparison, crisper and much more complicated and enticing than an Oregon pinot noir that preceded it. In the series, definitely the lightest and coolest vintage yet. Medium bodied. Adequately ripe. Understated yet. Light and fine grained tannins suggest mid term cellaring potential. 91+/100. Following two hours' aeration, Wine of the Night for most attendees. Reported even better the next day, as well as drinking well currently.

Lieu dit touching on Arnoux's Chorey Les Beaumonts; Wine Enthusiast 91/100. Savigny griottes to the fore. Seems some barrel broadening to the aroma. Quite tannic yet. Firmer than many a 2018 red burgundy. Has the makings. 92+/100.This aired well. Writes one commentator: 'Rich and suave; deliciously appropriate red fruits.'

Est. 1632; winery still at the same site in Puligny. That's a pretty and accurate Savigny pinot griottes aroma. Firm 2020 underpinnings. Oh, the wild cherries just burst out all over the palate. A Savigny tried and true. It's not really tannic, but it has a 2020 firmness about it yet so will accrue in the cellar for several years. 93+/100. Attendees noted that Savigny pinot wild cherry character and detected a deft touch of oak too. Orders taken.

Four generation estate; 1 hectare vineyard next to Clos du Roi; 35 year old vines; aged a year in barrels. Expansive already, whereas several 2019s we've tasted of late want for more bottle age. That's the Arnoux style. Doesn't mean it's going to wilt early, as the 2011s tasted last year proved. A beautifully sweet Beaune red fruit pinot nose. Just as rich and generous on the palate. Likely candidate for the table now, or whenever. These never seem to go through a dumb phase. The group was blown away by this one. 95+/100.

Est. 1980; vineyard in the northwest sector next to Clos des Mouches; vines average 40 years; aged 15 months in barrels, 30% new; unfined, unfiltered. Beaune soft, broad, and, as always, an undefinable take on pinot. It does bear a resemblance to Clos des Mouches I've tasted. Great acidity, considerable but fine-grained tannins. Premier Cru stature, significance. And that Girardin combo of tradition and modernity. Not abrasive; still, there's lots of aromatic growth to go. 94+/100. Wine of the Night. Many orders taken.

Wine Enthusiast 92/100. My notes: Jolly red ruby color. Rightly Pommard plump. Oak framing contains it. Well crafted. Sweet, red-fruited Cote de Beaune with Pommard generosity. Its power complements the overall presentation. I'll bet this will cellar well--mid term, rather than long term. Bargain priced for a vineyard-designate Pommard these days. 93+/100.

2018: Aged 20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered. Genuine cork and a long one. Wow, that's one hefty Auxey rouge. Good and sweet fruit on the palate. 2018 talking. Plenty of bulk, presence. Good acid for balance. Light tannin. Well poised to go and grow. This yielded up more aroma and flavor as it aired over the next few hours and was universally appreciated by the tasting panel. 93+/100.

7th generation domaine at Auxey Duresses. Sweet and ample strawberry and red cherry Cote de Beaune pinot display. It's old vines generous and concentrated. Barrel seasonings stirred in through and through. Great acid. Medium to full bodied. Flavors less forthcoming than aromas. Some fine grained tannins. The acidity is just striking, and presages a fond future. Among the Europhiles, the favorite of the three red burgundies in this evening's set for its acidity, classicism, and potential. 93+/100.

A lieu dit within Reugne 1er Cru; replanted in 1989; aged a year in barrels, 10% new. The fruit is stronger, darker, more pronounced. More alcohol evident. Slightly fuller bodied. Even better acid. Slightly more tannin. Each needs more bottle age for aroma/flavor development than did the VV last week. 92+/100.

Est. 1946 at Saint Aubin; vineyard on limestone, planted 1972, 1980; grapes destemmed; fermented and aged in barrels (30-40% new) 12-18 months; unfiltered. Oh, that's a fresh, red fruited, fairly crisp Saint Aubin rouge classic. Old vines give depth and dimension. Barrels contribute suavity and complexity. 2020 firm framed. Lots of fruit volume and depth thanks to old vines. Some tannin to shed; lots of bouquet to gather. 93+/100. Widely declared Wine of the Night. Orders taken.

South facing clay-limestone vineyard close to the village; vines planted 1939, 1985. Aged a year in barrels, 45% new. Santenay dark fruited and frank. Good 2019 firm fruit core. No doubt about the barrel influence. For me, it's appealing even when still somewhat superficial. I know it's going to sink in with bottle age. Good 2019 concentration and fruit substance. Both oak and fruit tannins to resolve. Dry finish for the time being. Real Santenay. 92+/100.

A very dark, cool, and clear Maranges definition, as it always is. Seems at the southern reaches of the Cote de Beaune, the pinots take on a Nuits like dark fruit element, moving from strawberry and cherry to plum. Good barrel extras here. Very good race, acid, balance, flavor clarity. The tannins are fine grained. Not a bearish young 2019. I'll be stocking this one. 92+/100.

2019: Vigneron at Auxey Duresses; 50 year old vines; aged 10 months in 2 - 4 year old barrels. Medium, glowing cranberry. Oh, that's got the Hautes Cotes ruggedness. And surging acidity. Cranberry aroma as well as color. The acid continues nice and brisk, moderated by barrel aged suavity. No tannin issues. Long, flavorful finish. Never had a Bourgogne quite like it; I applaud that. Likely to improve thanks to the acidity. Meanwhile, it begs for food. A group favorite. 'Lovely oak and fruit, expressive, quite complex, very long, huge bargain.' 93+/100.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. Shallow soil, calcareous and heavily pebbled. Aged 7 months in stainless steel and 3 months in oak. Very pretty pinot aroma up front, backed by that tarry, sappy Chalonnaise terroir effect. Full substance of 2020. Yeah, this is a meatier wine than the good 2019. More weight, density, extract, tannin. Will reward more bottle age. 91+/100.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. Red-black fruit with Mercurey vigor and dark tones. There are oak augmentations too. Deep and persistent. Plenty of flavor and texture to offer. Superior acidity. Lasting and mealworthy. Not much tannin to resolve so good with food now. Cellar for bouquet amplification. Well priced. 92+/100.

Now some oak extras enter the red wine picture. Both solid and sophisticated vintage of this. Mercurey dense and black plum scented. Large, barrel assuaged and complicated. Lots of 2020 tannin still. Potent and ambitious. 92+/100.

Est. 1927; ninth generation vigneron at Odenas; 50-60 year old vines on sand and granite soils; whole cluster fermented by wild yeasts. Not much nouveau-ish about this one either. It's Villages and old vines large too. Ready to apply. Yes, large, structured, and bountiful on the palate. Good acid and extract. Serious stuff. 92+/100.

Sandy soil; 80+ year old vines. A fresh, crisp, pointed, and penetrating product of a cool year. What it's all about. Great acidity. Old vines extract. Mouthfilling, mouthwatering. 92/100.

5 generation estate; from vineyards on marl at Le Bois d'Oingt and on granite at Saint Verand. Pretty crimson color. Red fruited. A little dry and reticent. Again, the impression is one of dryness and low key flavor profile. Attractive strawberry and raspberry notes at the end. Would appreciate more bottle age. 90+/100.

2020: Est. 1512; vines 50-100 years old; 2/3 on granitic soils, unusual in southern Beaujolais; native years; unfiltered. Limpid red violet. Sweet, bright, and forthcoming as usual. Perfectly ripe fruit. Fine acid and light tannin texture. As the tannin is absorbed, this will become increasingly delectable over the coming months. 91+/100.

One of the few, if only, Beaujolais Villages to bear a village name. Pretty, pretty. A real charmer. With extra Villages amplitude too. Fulfills all expectations. Racy, sweet-tart palate. Even a measure of tannin. Nose says go, palate says hold on. Yes, really quite dry and chewy on the aftertaste. 92+/100.

Chantecler, the Gallic rooster; there are 38 villages dotted around the Grands Crus in northern Beaujolais on granitic soils distinct from the sandy reaches of the south. Villages terroir and old vines oomph support this, allowing it to stand on its on following a couple of heaviesin the tasting order. Yeah, there's 2020 richness too. While the acid is especially lively. Flavorful and lengthy. Settling into a comfortable stage of maturity. 91/100.

70% from La Chapelle de Guinchay (sand, granite); 30% from Lancie (clay, limestone); 45 year old vines. Vibrant purple. Can't get much fresher and more primary than this nose. On the edge of reduction but not into it,/ Yeah, black and purple fruits to the fore. Crunchy black cherry. Supported by a surprising amount of body, texture, even light tannin. Well, it is a Villages after all. This will improve for the rest of the year, at least. Super value. 91+/100.

At Fleurie; fifth generation; vines 30-90 years old. Fresh and fruity, even floral. Accomplished; no fermentation residuals. More of a sense of richness than the good 2021 showed. Yes, this is definitely fuller bodied, textured, and flavored. I sense a superior Beaujolais vintage here. Balanced and long on the aftertaste. 92/100. A very popular value with attendees.

A perfect CdB from weight and style standpoints. Fruit sweetness and equilibrium that is Cote de Brouilly. Nice spicy extra. Continues to impress. Runs deep. That innate elegance combined with just the right degree of Grand Cru concentration that it doesn't detract from same. Palate echoes nose. Yes, vigorous, variegated, entertaining. Great 2021 acid plus GC richness to balance. Great length. Got to have this. 93/100. List price: $27.

Well, here's real aromatic push. Style, range, depth, aromatic intrigue. Exemplary of its appellation. The fruit is at once ripe and rich, cool and snappy, Grand Cru deep and variegated. Always a deep, silky, fruit laden CdB classic. Silky indeed. Bright black fruits and racy fruit acidity. Robust and flavorful. Stands for its appellation. Long lasting gamay cherry-berry flavors. Perfect balance. Going from strength to strength. 93/100.

Parker 92: 'The 2021 Cote de Brouilly has turned out nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and berries with notions of burning embers and forest floor. Medium-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with a lively core of fruit, powdery tannins and a sapid, saline finish, it marks a return to a more classically proportioned style after several richer, riper vintages. Drink now-2033.'

60 year old vines. Why do Julienas wines always have the prettiest color among the crus? Always violet. Well, the cherry suggestions are there. Purple plum too. And violets! Faithful to its genre. Flavors confirm aromas. That well tailored Julienas texture. The finest of tannins. And good acidity. Well balanced for improvement in the cellar. Good with andouillettes now. 92+/100.

Yields 3 tons per acre; native yeasts; 70% destemmed; unfined. Stylish, silky, purple plum fruited Julienas. Another Grand Cru with terroir ID. Down to the cherished overtone of violets. The palate is up to the nose. Full bodied, yet still silk textured. Some fine tannin for aging potential. 92+/100.

Blue diorites make up part of the Julienas terroir. The usual 'plummy' association I make with Julienas. Relative leanness and closeness of a young wine from a cool vintage. 21 acid and Grand Cru richness in harmony. Likely to become even more yielding after aeration. And certainly after cellaring. Good price. 91+/100.

70 year old vineyard on granite next to Moulin a Vent; unfined, unfiltered. Medium dark red. Plenty of richness and ripeness for 2021. There's a degree of Fleurie elegance as well as Moulin a Vent solid underlayment. Soft, smooth, and sweetish up front. Good acid underpinnings. 92/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Wow! Super classy, rich, deep, long, and ready. Just delish.' 'Substantial as well as engaging.'

5th generation estate; 120 acre vineyard in the northern sector; SE exposure; granitic soil. Richness of the vintage; fullness of a northern sector Fleurie; innate elegance of this Grand Cru. Deep seated fruit. All over again. Delicious and bright cherry candy flavor. Fulling, long, balanced, satisfying. Well priced. 92/100.

5th generation domaine at Fleurie; high, terraced vineyard on pink granitic sand; 40 year old vines. This is always a large Fleurie, though it's not without some AOC floral elegance. Not a very forthcoming aroma at opening. Really good, racy fruit acidity. Again, not much in the way of aromatics yet. Balanced and cellarworthy. 91+/100.

On the border of Moulin a Vent; vines over 40 years old; aged 8 months in foudres. Medium red violet color. Fleurie elegance for sure. Upon opening, still pretty contrite. The subtle floral charms sneaking out though. The palate too is all about charm. Relatively light weight vintage of this. Might fill out more with bottle age. Roilette fans rarely wait though. 92+/100. Well, it filled out well merely via aeration. One commentator's 'wine of the night'. Added complexities of aging in cooperage noted.

7 generation family domaine at Corcelles; Morgon vineyards 85 years old. Ripe, forward, luxurious Morgon at age 3. Nature of the vintage. Classic Morgon,/ Yes, ripe cherries all over the place. An intriguing dash of VA, more daring than detrimental. Fine dusting of tannins do not interfere with current use at the dinner table. 92/100.

Parker 92: 'The 2020 Morgon Bellevue Sable mingles aromas of cherries and wild plums with hints of violets and spices. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and satiny, with succulent acids and melting tannins, it's charming and seamless, standing out as one of the most demonstrative, immediate wines in the range. Drink now-2033.'

Parker 95+: 'The 2020 Morgon Les Delys Vignes plantees en 1926 is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with notes of cherries and raspberries mingled with hints of licorice, sweet soil tones and cracked pepper. Medium to full-bodied, it's fleshy and concentrated, with a chassis of rich tannins and a generous core of fruit girdled by brighter acids that distinguished either the 2019 or 2018 renditions. This is correspondingly a touch more reserved out of the gates than those predecessor vintages, and it will reward a bit of patience. Drink now-2040: '

65 year old vines on granite; unfined; Louis-Dressner selection. The medium dark color belies a voluminous noseful of Morgon from the get go. Oh, so lush, deep, broad. Brun spells what Morgon is all about. The palate is loaded with dry tannins though. So inviting to smell, so nasty to taste. Gotta cellar it. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for one attendee, and a 94/100 rating. All agreed the nose was special but the palate still bearish.

Bright and deep 'griottes' Morgon aroma. Morgon large too. Yeah, this has village character and fortitude. Unique take. 92+/100.

Smallest of the Grands Crus; next to Moulin a Vent in the north; cooperative of 80 winegrowers est. 1934; extensive cellars, one of the largest complexes in the region; Gold Medal - Paris. Wow, that's even better than the 2020, which I had tasted and expected to receive. Yes, Chenas to the core (coeur!). Substance and form of a northern Grand Cru, yet distinct from Moulin a Vent's regal stance. This nails Chenas. Well built. Plenty of both framework and filling. Flavorful. Fine 2021 acid, of course. Take to either the table or the cellar. 92+/100. 'Cru quality; textbook.'

Vineyard planted in 1939 at 1200', at the top of the Remont hillside. This is Chenas structured. No as much as Moulin a Vent, but you know it's a northern Beaujolais neighbor. Heartier than the previous vintage. The old vines really talk the talk. Yes, this is on the large scale, tannic side of Beaujolais Grand Cru. Three years old and in want of more cellaring. For vintage, old vines, and AOC, all makes sense. 91+/100. Attendees liked this and agreed it could use additional bottle age.

Parker 92: 'The 2021 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes is a pretty, charming wine, bursting with aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with peonies and potpourri. Medium-bodied, fleshy and giving, with powdery tannins and tangy acids, it also exhibits impressive concentration for the vintage. Drink now-2031.'

2015: Understandably more vital, better preserved than Dubost's 2015 Fleurie. This is the 'keeper' Grand Cru. It really is quite full bodied and full of fruit. Little MaV resistance on the nose at age 5+. 15 round and sweet fruited. In tune. A core of fine tannin works to balance the 2015 fruit abundance. Drinking well. 92/100.

From several lieux dits around Romaneche Thorins; on pink granite rich in manganese. Dark, solid, upright, 'masculine' MaV. Portrays MaV image and also ageworthiness. The fruit is present but scarcely evolved into its fifth year. Much more fruit forward palate. Flavorful, well balanced, and easy to appreciate taste pattern. Sweet fruit finish. For now or later. 91+/100.

5 generations-old estate covering 23 acres; vines 30 to 90 years old. Boy, this is rich and stout MaV for sure. Seems stronger than 13%. Pumps out the volume. Dark berries, plums, and violets. Big, mouthful MaV fulfillment. Balanced, fine tannin for texture and food, great length. Gads! 93/100. All positive reactions from the tasting panel.

Impressive from the get go. Both racy and deep. Close to being fulfilled even though just shipped. The right Petit Chablis style. Not as chalky as the village wine.After 2021, relatively soft but adequately acidic. Ripe fruit gives good flavor profile. Spot on. 92/100. Well liked by attendees.

Vineyard between Milly and Fleys; 25 year old vines. Nice and fresh, unabashedly unwooded, and nearly as crisp as the 2021. Calcaire notions. Lemony flavor. Brisk acid. Ready to take to the table. A tyro's guide to Chablis. 91/100.

2020: More aromatic oomph and underlying material than the Petit Chablis. Yes, has more substance and weight. And good acid again. More of everything. A tete a tete lesson in the appellation differences. 92+/100.

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 35 year old vines. Boy, is that old vines ample. Fills the nostrils with both aroma and texture. Chablis terroir squared: big time Kimmeridge limestone, cool and ventilating. Really concentrated old vines material. Flavorful and long lasting. 2021 acid meets old vines intensity. Total package. Perhaps the Seguinot is slightly more-ish. Whatever. Can't live without either. 93+/100. Attendees found this the quintessential, old vines Chablis. Orders taken.

Est. 1590; 25-40 year old vines. A little more backward than the 22 Petit Chablis and also fuller, more nostril swelling. Also exceptionally fruity in 2022. The terroir comes in the chalky texture, the mouthfeel. More substance, weight, and potential here. Lasting finish. 92+/100. Attendees liked this one even better.

2021: 80-100 year old vines. Huge extract here. Old vines white dwarf concentration. Apple, calcaire, and a degree of nutty-mealy character that comes with vieilles vignes. Weighty on the palate. Again, the acid seems modified by a degree of malo. Very full bodied mouth presence and lasting finish.The group was in awe. One commented 'One of the best Chablis I've tasted in a while.' 'Liquid rocks' comments another. Orders taken. 93/100.

Lies between 1er Crus Vosgros and Montmains; fallow at the time of the classification; vines average 35 years. Ventilating calcaire and 2021 briskness meet Premier Cru mass, extract concentration. Yeah, this is no 'village' wine. Statuesque, important. All the while, 2021 racy. Long, mineral saturated finish. 92+/100. The panel took it from there: 'Reeks of Chablis terroir'; 'rapier like', '1er Cru for sure'. Obviously very popular with attendees.

4 generation estate; 9 acres in Cote de Lechet, scattered over 6 plots. A little fuller and more personality laden than several recent vintages. Better exhibits Premier Cru amplitude. That proper degree of Cote de Lechet uplift too. Yes, sufficient complexity, acidity, minerality, and structure to make a Premier Cru argument. Lasting taste and texture. W ill likely accrue with age. The group found this the best Fourrey Chablis yet and liked the price. 92+/100.

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 25 year old vines. There's a dusting of SO2, yet it can't deny Chablis terroir and Premier Cru amplitude. Runs deep and wide. Feel and flavor more obscured by sulphur. I sense the material and potential intact. Certainly a larger and more widespread Chablis than the good village wine. Good value if aired and/or cellared a spell. Some attendees also noted SO2 lingering a couple hours after opening. By the next day, it had aired off, revealing fully the terroir and Premier Cru rank. 92+/100.

This is very full for Fourchaume. More like a Right Bank Premier Cru. Full flavored and full bodied indeed. With some of that Fourchaume padding. Moderate acidity. A really full blown example of Fourchaume. 94+/100.

Oh that's good and Premier Cru large. With the largesse of Fourchaume. Spot on. Full bodied, generous, giving. All one could want, and at a decent price. Must have. 93/100.

2019: Vineyards 45-60 years old, facing south-southeast; unwooded. Premier Cru amplitude. Fourchaume calcaire and green fruit. 2019 lift. Leesy basis. Premier Cru sizeable. Depth, breadth, minerality, structure. Well enough balanced, if a little on the mild side acid-wise. Good overall performance. 92+/100.

Parker 93: 'As is often the case, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots is the most honeyed, sensual wine in the Servin portfolio, with wafting aromas of beeswax, acacia honey, white flowers and sweet stone fruit. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's broad, textural and enveloping, with a glossy attack and a bright, fleshy mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. It's a particularly strong rendition of this cuvée and will have considerable gastronomic potential. Drink 2025-2045. The 2020 vintage looks to be the domaine's finest and most consistent since 2017, and shrewd consumers will find much to admire here.'

Parker 95: 'A brilliant effort from François Servin and his winemaker Mark Cameron, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos exhibits an incipiently complex bouquet of citrus oil, crisp stone fruits, wet stones and nutmeg, followed by a full-bodied, satiny and vibrant palate that's seamless and incisive, exhibiting all the site's typical power in an especially harmonious, beautifully balanced format. Drink 2025-2045.'

Brittle 18 extract and high calcaire. Bright, crisp, northern, penetrating. Brilliant freshness. Fine 2018 fruit padding too. Yow, total grip and jawbreaker extract. Hard to swallow. Gains fruit as it warms, which pulls it into a well-balanced position. A great concept. 92+/100.

Est. 1859; vines planted between 1944 and 1991; aged 6 months in barrels, 20% new. Classic white burgundy set of barrel fermentation, time on lees, and barrel aging effects of both suavity and outright new oak savors. A treat for me. Upon opening, surprisingly understated acidity as 2021s go, so perhaps a measure of malo here. Doesn't have much of an influence on the overall presentation's classicism. 92+/100. Attendees too enjoyed the barrel influences. No comments on understated acidity; in fact, one attendee described it as 'spritely'.

17 acre estate, mainly in Puligny; deepest, coldest cellar in the village, which has a high water table; from the younger Puligny vines; aged 90% in puncheons, 10 % in new barrels. Quite a lot of oak. Cool vintage, cool cellar, cool customer. I like its prospects. There's that calcaire Puligny foundation. The oak is positive, adding complexity to both flavor and texture. This is easily worth the tariff in the world of white burgundies today. Balanced, giving, 2021 structured, Many a $60 to $80 village wine would not compete. 93+/100.

Surprisingly barrel augmented. Full. Good fruit concentration and Chalonnaise terroir expression. This has a lot to give. 91+/100.

A fallow plot lying within the boundaries of Meursault le Dos d'Ane and Chaumes des Perrieres when purchased by Raymond's grandfather in 1975. Fallow because this rocky, calcareous parcel was covered with soil too shallow to bear new vines. His grandfather asked for and received permission to add eight inches of topsoil to the section. This desecration of terroir incited his neighbors to get the vineyard declassified from Meursault to Bourgogne Blanc. Fair enough while the vines were young, but now, at age 45, their roots are well down into the original soil and subsoil, and the wines talk the Meursault talk. 20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered Wow. Now we're getting into some full body, heavy weight white wine. Meursault indeed. The nuts, the grains, the autumnal smells. And fine, well integrated barrel and lees regimen. Yes, bulky on the palate. Fills the mouth; body and texture. Yards to go for bouquet fulfillment, and what a bouquet more bottle age will generate. Just huge presence. 95+/100.

60% Macon Lugny, 40% Montagny. Well, there's oak up front here upon opening. Montagny body, Macon race. Well conceived. Needs time for the oak to soak in. Flavorful of ripe 2019 and augmented to a lesser degree by oak. I like its ambitions and prospects. 92+/100.

2018: At Chassagne Montrachet; from 4 level sites planted 1980-2006; 1 at Puligny, 1 at Chassagne, and 2 at Santenay; half aged in barrels, 20% new. A little sulphur scratch. The oak is to the fore but not to the extent it dominates the overall nasal experience. Oak and fruit flavor melange. The fruit is 2018 sunny. This is nuanced, intriguing, despite being between aroma and bouquet. Entertaining. Not out of balance for current table service. 91+/100.

Est. 1590; from vineyards in the vicinity of Chablis. Exceptional aromatic surge immediately after the cork emerged. Not as much calcaire as in the Seguinot Chablis wines. Mighty cool northern Burgundy chardonnay all the same. Another crackling 2021, supercharged with fresh acidity. This got the group thinking Chablis. Salivating stuff. Put it right to use. Very popular this evening. Orders taken. 92/100.

From six parcels, in the township of Meursault. In your face oakiness, and I can't get enough of it. Complex of barrel ferment, barrel age, barrel extract, and lees stirring. Big Meursault style white burgundy all the way. Equally massive and woody on the palate. The whole nine yards. 2021 acidity adding welcome relief. Worth every penny. 95+/100. Much appreciated by attendees, comments generally in agreement with mine. Orders taken.

Vineyard above Corgoloin on very hard ground. Lees stirring, full malo. What IS that nose? Not your typical Burgundy chardonnay. More linear, more lifted. Is it the terroir talking? Or is this pinot beurot or that white sport of pinot noir? Fascinating. Must check this out on the internet. After checking, it's all chardonnay, and the terroir seems to have something special to say. Yeah, this isn't the usual take on Burgundy chardonnay. More citrusy. Don't seem to be any oak complications blurring the picture. FASCINATING! 92+/100.

Est. 1859; barrel fermented; 20% aged in new barrels, the rest 1-5 years old. Wow, that's a pretty impressive slug of oak. Obscures the terroir at this early stage. I'm confident all will even out in the end. Yeah, the same drawback on the palate. Good acid for 2020. Chartron knows what he's doing, so I'm betting the oak issue will resolve itself. 92++/100.

Est. 1947; 70% pinot blanc, 30% chardonnay; 55 year old vines; half fermented in demi muids; aged 15 months in seasoned demi muids; colorful story about Pierre at kermitlynch.com. Super quality cork. Oh, yeah, this is pinot blanc over chardonnay. It's leaner and nuttier. Shows time in barrel bouquet development without much barrel extract. More oak on the palate; still, nothing in excess. Rounding, developing bottle bouquet. Another 'its own thing' bottle. Lasting vigor. 93/100.

From a site that is mostly Premier Cru and sits just up-slope from Meursault Vireux; 20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered. Tasted after Dupont's 2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Meursault related too, for sure. With more high elevation Auxey lift. The oak is more apparent here, and I don't mind that a bit. Kind of a shame not to spread these two gems over a couple of tastings. Still, the immediate comparison is illustrative. More acidity at the higher elevation. Oak well integrated, though some wood tannin is evident. Well balanced for the present; loads ahead for the future. 96+/100.

From a site that is mostly Premier Cru and sits just up-slope from Meursault Vireux; 20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered. Large, powerful Meursault like autumnal aroma of grain bin, oatmeal, and dried leaves. Well measured Burgundian barrel regimen. Lush 18 fruit contained within an oak framework. Runs deep. A youngster, decidedly on the up and up. Pleasing acidity shows as it wraps up, rendering this a well balanced presentation. Well liked by the group. Orders taken. 94+/100.

Est. 1632; winery still at the same site in Puligny. Aromatically shy and suggesting good village bulk. Growing up as it airs. Senses of village compactness and potential. It's all here in nascent form. Real build, material. Clinging finish, texture wise. Well in tune with the AOC. Worth cellaring. 92+/100. Continued to become more demonstrative with aeration. 'Toast and brown-spice oak aromas.' 'Egg custard.' 'Turkish Taffy.' 'Really fine stuff; plenty of flavor; long.' Many orders taken.

Lieu-dits of Les Enseignieres, Les Meix, Rue Rousseau and Les Tremblots; 100% malo; 11 months on lees in barrels, 30% new. The whole package is positive. The malo melds with the new oak tannin to make a whole greater than the sum of the parts. Lees aging has a creamy, grainy effect. Puligny calcaire terroir is all evident. On the palate, there's sense of place, and the full white Burgundy winemaking regimen. Good acidity, real length. 2018 compact and framed; real promise for cellar aging. 94+/100.

25 acre domaine at Puligny; scion of the Henri Clerc estate; vineyard next to Les Pucelles Premier Cru. Seems some barrel aging in the upbringing here. More time than extract. Puligny calcaire starts to form with aeration. A large wine. Large in the mouth too. 2020 roundness meets Puligny cut. A lot of aroma/flavor formation to come with air and age. Indeed, this aired well. Two hours later, panelists noted plenty of oak and fruit aromas and flavors. Also appreciated was the absence of malo. A group favorite. 94+/100.

Est. 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. Ultra cool and racy 2021 style. Both briskness of vintage and depth of Chalonnais chardonnay. Plenty of sweet, ripe fruit here and dab of Chalon resin. More elevated level of acidity than the 2020. All around great bargain in Bourgogne chardonnay. 91+/100. The group preferred this to the fine 2020 thanks to its higher acidity.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. That's pretty pungent and explicit aligote. Buxy knows aligote. Nasal penetration and nippy texture are prime. Rather low key acid for aligote. That's 2020. Still, the vinosity and textural elements are fulfilling, and the price is right. Commentators noted plenty of acidity. I must admit my palate was a little off last Wed. They praised both price and typicity. 91/100.

A Beaune negociant formed by three Burgundy winemakers, including the first woman winemaker at the Hospices de Beaune and a scion of the Bouchard Pere family; 35 year old vines in limestone. Aligote acid race from the get go. The modest flavor profile of unwooded aligote. Accurate and versatile at the table. 91/100.

Plenty of oak, class oak, new oak. Terroir, body, grip, resin. Young, large, a bit tight yet. 2020 size, impact. Ambitious. Will take to cellaring. Tasted 5/4/23. 91+/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Elevage not mentioned on the website. However, this definitely has barrel augmentation, both time and extract wise. And that resinous Chalonnais quality. Full delivery. Yes, AOC and cooperage both talking loud and clear. 2021 acid makes it extra bright. Ready for the table. Look at the price! 93/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Sulphur interference at opening. Seems to be some barrel influence, both extract and time wise. Chalonnaise body, if little resin. Yes, full bodied. Oak and fruit in harmony. Good acid, especially for 2019. I think this will make a good glass after aeration and/or another year or so in the cellar. 91+/100. Other than the initial sulphur on the nose, this was well liked by attendees. 'Lovely balance of oak, fruit, and acid. Long and ready.'

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'From one of Montagny's top premier cru vineyards, this is dense and textured as well as richly fruity. The fermentation followed by aging in wood have enhanced the wine's complexity, offering pear flavors, a tight texture and a flinty edge. Drink from 2021. $45.'

Vines 45-50 years old on clay-limestone; barrel fermented; age 18 months on lees without stirring in new and seasoned oak barrels. Oak to the fore. Chalonnaise sappiness too. Pushy, ambitious. Comes together nicely on the palate, plush fruit absorbing the oak. Surely not lacking in bouquet potential. Good acid for 2020. 92+/100.

From the commune La Chapelle de Guimchay, in northern Beaujolais bordering Maconnais, where the clay-limestone soil is the best suited for chardonnay in the AOC. Not very forthcoming, aromatically. Some intriguing herbal subtleties deep down in there. Great body, acid, mouthfeel. I can get along without the aromatics given the largesse of the rest of the package. Writes its own ticket on the palate. Feels more like an Auxerre chardonnay. 92/100. Aromas built up as it aired and warmed. Applauded by attendees for both nose and palate.

At Davaye; est 1928; limestone soil; aged on lees until spring. Vigorous 2021 acidity leaps right out .Green apple aroma suggests no malolactic fermentation. Though reticent at first like previous vintages, aeration coaxes forth plenty of fruit and lees contributions. Very popular with attendees for absence of malo. 'Best of series' comment recorded. 91+/100.

105 year old vines near Vire Clesse; native yeasts; 9 months on lees. Fine cork. Some H2S at opening. Can't totally mask the old vines concentration and impact. Grows deeper and clearer as it aerates. There have been fuller bodied vintages of this than cool, damp 2021. Nonetheless, the old vines have an intensifying impact thanks to deep root systems, and the vintage's fresh acidity is welcome. And the price has actually come down a notch. Three gun salute! 91+/100.

2020: At Martailly Les Brancion; three generation estate; 30+ year old vines; full malolactic fermentation. Crisp and appley Macon chardonnay with a modicum of old vines 'woodiness' and lees doughiness. Malo and vintage have rounded this out. Still, it's as brisk and lithe as all vintages lately. Always a reliable unwooded chardonnay bargain. 91+/100.

From the thousand-year-old village of Chardonnay; domaine established in the 17th century. 22 soft apple and citrus. Right for grape and village. 22 softness again. Good acid all the same. Gentle and ready to enjoy. More aroma will come with air and age. 91+/100. Attendees more or less agreed with my assessment.

30-35 years old vines; native yeasts. It's full; always is. Lots of lees influence gives an almost barrel aged impression. Yeah, doughy lees and appley chardonnay fruit. Charnay large. Exemplary vintage of this. 91+/100.

Est. 1835; 27 year old vines; indigenous yeasts; spontaneous malo, aged 6 months in vats on lees. Aroma understated. Detectable body even on the nose. Sits right. Young chardonnay with aromatic growth to go. Flavors likewise shy. There's balance and village weight, form. Keep after it. 91+/100. This improved even more with aeration. 'Just what you want in a Macon; rich fruits, fine balance; long and lovely.'

Est. 1835; 25 year old vines; indigenous yeasts; spontaneous malo, aged 6 months in vats on lees. Nose shy at first; swells with airing. Takes on apple and cream. The palate is richer and more bountiful in flavor range and depth. 91+/100.

Generations old estate with vineyards in Chaintre, Fuisse, and Poully Fuisse; 32 year old vines; unwooded. That's Fuisse and old vines full. Plenty of lees influence too. Much more to offer than Larochette's Chaintre. Oh, juicy 2021 fruit and fruit acidity as well as abundant flavor and really quite full body. Long aftertaste. Pushes Pouilly Fuisse. Honestly, the most impressive Larochette wine I've tasted. 92/100. Very popular with the group. 'This is great!' 'One of the best Macons in recent memory.' 'The AOC is clearly a class above other Macon Villages.' 'My favorite white.'

25 year old vines; native yeasts. Lots of sweet fruit. Really very, very nice. Full bodied, full flavored. A lot of wine here. 92+/100.

Very lemony. Juice, peel, custard. Right. Confirmed. In tune with this MV cuvee years ago, now with Verze specific emphasis. Great acid for the vintage. 91/100.

2018: Two of the Maconnais' top villages, now entitled to a singular AOC. Oh, boy, consummate example of AOC, vintage, everything. Bold, grand, pushy. Pouilly Fuisse like weight and intensity. Clarity, freshness, body. Solid. Still waxing big. 92+/100.

25-30 year old vines in five 'climats'. The extra body, weight, and intensity of Saint Veran vs Macon Villages. A nice patina of bouquet here enhanced by lees aging. Gathering depth and dimension. Textural as well as aromatic. Generous, and at a good stage. Yes, full bodied and with broad flavor spectrum. Yes, extra richness and mouthfilling qualities. Balanced. Really satisfies and looks forward to mealtime service. 92/100.

From lieux dits Gaillard and Chateau Gimot on grey marl at Montigny les Arsures; aged in topped-up (ouille) barrels. Do I get a suggestion of barrel influence? Or is it just the variety that's supplying the extra spicy savor? Certainly stimulating. Relatively modest acidity as these go. Or it's coated. I'm delving for more flavor intensity but not finding it yet. Let's see what forms over the coming hours. Well, as it turns out, a lot. Great acid, oak/fruit flavor complex, and length reported. The group was well entertained. 91+/100. Tasted 7/6/22.

Savagnin. Well, that's it. It's palo cortado sherry.but not exactly. This is classic vin jaune, perfect at age nine. Long, long, long. Mouthfilling. Balanced. A special sort of softness you won't find in dry sherries. And less spirit. Did I say 'long' finish.? 98/100.