At Civrac; 65% cab sauv, 35% merlot; aged a year in barrels, 1/3 new. The high cab sauv content stiffens this up more in youth. Real backbone. I don't get much of the new oak. Well, there's some oak intrigue on the palate. Good, high acid again. Wood and fruit tannins to resolve. Dry finish. Priceworthy cellar candidate. The group agreed. 91+/100.

In Ordonnac; 35 year old vines; 50% cab sauv, 45% merlot, 5% cab franc, petit verdot; aged a year in barrels. Like many a Left Bank 2016 claret, this is evolving very slowly. It has the form, elegance, depth, and equilibrium of a good one. Good cab sauv blackberry, black currant. The oak is nicely melted in at age seven plus. Yeah, palate talks cab sauv black fruit too. Gaining some suavity but still not much bottle bouquet. Well priced cellar candidate. 92+/100. More forthcoming after aeration. Positive comments; now or later drinking.

On a gravel outcrop in northern Medoc near the port of Goulee; 35+ year old vines owned by Cos d'Estournel; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; wine made by the Cos team; 50% new barrels. Dark red violet. Dark and distinguished. Full bodied. Well oaked. Seems to have even more oomph than when last tasted. Just the right degree of ripeness in 2019. The barrels supply a whale of a complex nose. Full bodied, full textured, flavorful of fruit and barrel in harmony. Remains the greatest (Bas) Medoc of the 21st century. Good acid, overall balance. It's a neat, discreet, and complete Left Bank claret. Fine tannin and length. I continue to assert it's the best Bas Medoc going these days. 94+/100.

From a property in northern Medoc. Dark color. Brilliant nose. The fruit is so elegant, so well married to its oak seasonings. No sense of clay basis in this Medoc. It's all about gravel terroir and brilliant handling. More pure class than any Bas Medoc I've ever nosed over 57 years in the wine trade. The raspberry, cassis, and Asian spice beauties are all up front on the palate too. 2018 fruit forward style well tempered by barrel aging into something of outstanding integrity. 96+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 90-92: 'Barrel Sample. This ripe wine is full of great fruit aromas and flavors. The tannins are generous and rich, supported by rounded black-plum and -berry fruits. It should cellar well through the medium term.'

Wine Enthusiast 91: 'Owned by a member of the Lurton family, the most prolific vineyard owners in Bordeaux, this estate has produced a well-balanced wine touched by wood but focused on black fruits. Richness is balanced by attractive acidity and fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2023. $30.'

2016: 50% merlot, 45% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; average vine age: 28 years. Aged 12 to 18 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Decanter 95/100.

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Potensac is a blend of 47% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, harvested from the 21st of September to the 9th of October. The alcohol came in at 14.05% with a pH of 3.54 and an IPT of 74. It is aging in French oak barriques, 34% new. With a deep purple-black color, the nose hits the ground running with lively scents of black raspberries, warm cassis and redcurrant jelly plus suggestions of garrigue, tilled soil, unsmoked cigars and pencil shavings. The medium to full-bodied palate is positively invigorating, offering bags of crunchy black and red berry flavors and a racy line of freshness, framed by approachable, grainy tannins and finishing with a skip in its step. In a word: FUN! Drink 2023-2036.'

Second wine; owned by Famille Delon of Leoville Las Cases; 20 year old vines, 75% merlot, 17% cab sauv, 8% cab franc. Delon style; old school Medoc. 2016 linear. Now emerging for its aromatic trough Has made real progress since last tasted 3/22. Bouquet forming. Even more fruit and bottle bouquet on the palate. High merlot helps soften it. Retains stuffing of fruit, acid, mineral, and softening tannin. Decant and serve, or cellar a year or so longer. 91+/100.

60% cab sauv, 35% merlot, 5% petit verdot; 50th anniversary of the Pages family ownership. Dark red violet. Firm and frank Tour de By. Never very oaky (more than it used to be though). Always holding a lot in reserve. This is southern Bas Medoc, on more gravel than clay, and it shows the class of cabernet from such terroir. Blackberry, black currant. Yeah, like I said, there's a lot behind the early presentation. Flavor wise and texturally. Full fine tannins. I may still have some pre-Pages 1975 in the home cellar. 92++/100. Tasted 10/27/21.

Wine Enthusiast 92/100. My notes: . 65% cab sauv, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot. Just screams cab sauv black currant and gravelly distinction. Usually does. I'm likin' it as much as the 2012. Lots of give, bright black currant character. Much closer on the palate. Considerable tannin. Very nice acidity. I'm really keen on the nose, and I'm sure the rest will catch up. Cellar potential for sure. Even 6 months ago, the 2012 still had a long way to go. Likin' this! 92+/100.

At St. Christoly; 60% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; aged 18 months in large oak foudres. Despite a higher percentage of merlot, this is snappy. And the cabernet blackcurrant shines through as it always does here. Barrel suavity without wood extracts. Good, high acid for 2019. Good flavor and texture performances out compete a lurking tannin. Pretty hefty claret by 2019 norms. I like its poise and promise. 91+/100.

Cab sauv, cab franc, merlot; special attendee price. Dark brick. Say, that's a valid cabernet-rich Medoc. Quite powerful. Color and nose suggest some press wine. Starting to assume a sense of bottle bouquet. Intense for 2019. 2019 suavity at age four plus. Full of flavor and burnished texture. Some fine tannin to shed. Deal. 91+/100.

At Cussac south of Saint Julien; 50% cab sauv, 47% merlot, 3% petit verdot in Gunz gravel, 12-14 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Beautiful Beaumont, spelling out its Saint Julien like richness and roundness. 2020 deep core of reserve as well. This is not as forward as the 2018 and 2019 at the same stage. Very well rounded indeed. Some dry tannins in back, but they are manageable. Adequate acidity. Will take longer to come to fruition than the previous two vintages. Has the skills to pay the bills. 92+/100. After two hours airing, this became enormously impressive. Widely considered 'best Beaumont ever'. Orders taken.

At Saint Seurin de Cadourne, north of Saint Estephe. 65% merlot, 35% cab sauv. Aged a year in barrels. Suckling 93-94: 'Very dense and rich with a solid core of ripe tannins and beautiful fruit. Full bodied, tight and muscular. Impressive.'

In St. Laurent, west of St. Julien; 68% cab sauv, 30% merlot, 2% petit verdot; aged a year in barrels, 30% new. Well, that's a big sprawl of 2018 fruit ripeness and new oak complex. Deep, dark, ambitious. Cab sauv blackberry to the fore. Ripe fruit savors. Fruit and oak tannins promise a long life. A little backwoods obstinance on the finish. All the same, probably the best Belgrave vintage I've tasted. 94+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Cambon la Pelouse is scented of cedar, tar and earth with a core of warm plums and cassis with mocha and lavender hints. The palate is full-bodied, firm and laden with fruit, supported by grainy tannins and finishing long.'

2019: Parker 91: 'The 2019 Camensac has only improved since I tasted it earlier this year, adding floral aromas of violet and rose to its attractive bouquet of dark berries and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a lively, concentrated wine that concludes with a long, penetrating finish. Drink 2023-2045.'

Parker 91: 'The 2019 Camensac has only improved since I tasted it earlier this year, adding floral aromas of violet and rose to its attractive bouquet of dark berries and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a lively, concentrated wine that concludes with a long, penetrating finish. Drink 2023-2045.'

Suckling 95; Parker 92: 'Opening in the glass with notions of rich berry fruit, licorice, cedar, violets and loamy soil, the 2019 Cantemerle is medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and powdery tannins that gently assert themselves on the finish. This shut down a little after bottling (some 11 months ago at the time of writing), but it is beginning to bounce back to reveal a wine of real charm and character. Drink 2025-2045.'

Wine Enthusiast 94 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'A well-constructed wine that is ripe with black fruits and integrated tannins, this is in a good place for aging. Black-currant fruitiness is balanced by a dry, smoky core that holds promise. Drink this wine from 2026.'

Sweet, round, well developed fruit and oak bouquet. Maturity, grandeur, Grand Cru class. Beautiful. Yes, sweet fruit. Mellowing. Light tannin. Has it all together. Classic to estate, zone; with fine maturity. 96/100.

2015: That nice, dark fruit and forest floors things of southern Haut Medoc. 60-40 cabernet-merlot classic. Younger vines but doesn't show it. Good tannin, good form. Like a lot of 15s, starting to shut down, lay in for the long term. 92+/100.

Est. 1648 at St. Laurent; half each cab sauv, merlot; owned by the Nony-Borie family along with Ch. Caronne Ste. Gemme. This rings with gravel spawned cabernet vitality. Black currant and blueberry. Good 2016 framing and sleek texture. Upon opening, quite a bit of tannin postpones the full performance. After it airing a couple of hours, the group reported it more expressive both flavor and texture wise. A well balanced, well bred, complicated claret. The wine of the night on several score sheets. 92+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'This is an impressive wine. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it is full of black-plum fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The velvet texture brings out an opulent, succulent character that will remain as the wine ages. It needs to age, so drink from 2025.'

Second wine of cru bourgeois Ch Cissac; first time in the market; Familie Vialard; at Cissac west of Pauillac; 70% cab sauv, 22% merlot, 8% petit verdot. This shows significant barrel aging impact for a second wine. 2015 warmth and openness, assisted by time in cooperage. Yes, indeed, barrel time and extracts are well into play here. Both oak and fruit tannins. A sleeper for the cellar. 92+/100.

Owed by Groupe Taillan (with Ferriere, Gruaud Larose, Chasse Spleen, Haut Bages Liberal); managed by Celine Villars; the chateau's 'park' is noted for its peacocks. Amalgam cork center with whole cork discs at each end. Classic Avensan claret with both floral perfumes and forest floor earthiness. And plenty of positive new oak. Revealing and inviting 2019 style. The oak is well controlled, the acid great, the tannins moderate. Solid Citran vintage.92+/100.

At Avensan in southern Haut Medoc; planted to 58% cab sauv, 42% merlot; aged 15 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Real cork. Sweeter, more abundant fruit, black fruit. Oak also impressive. The extra ripeness and power is evident. This is more-ish, the extra year's age adding an assist. More tannic than the 2019, so the palate, at this stage, is not as accommodating. Pretty chewy fare at present. Good era for Citran. 92+/100.

Owned by the Bories of Ducru Beaucaillou; at Cussac, south of St. Julien; 70% cab sauv, 25% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged a year in oak barrels. Quality cork. Full color for a light vintage. Sweet, black cabernet fruit meets quality oak augmentation. What you'd expect of Borie regardless of vintage. That carries over to the palate. 2017's relative levity and flow nicely captured by a top winemaker. Some fine grained tannin, but it doesn't preclude dinnertime service. 92+/100. Enjoyed by all. 'Smells of class and tastes of cabernet.' 'Classic Bordeaux!'

Heritiers Marquis d'Evry. Depth, richness, fortitude, sweetness, light oak. Admirably ripe enough fruit. Yes, rich and right, with fine tannin, full body, and accomplished mid Haut Medoc cabernet sauvignon presentation. 92/100.

At Cussac, south of Saint Julien; 60% cab sauv, 35% merlot, 4% petit verdot, 1% cab franc, averaging 30 years; aged a year in barrels, 1/3 new, 1/3 once filled, 1/3 twice filled. 2020 core of potential. A well coordinated encepagement. The oak regimen gives complexity in conjunction. Fine craftsmanship here. Cab sauv structure stands out on the palate. This will require longer cellaring than either 2018 or 2019 to reap its rewards. All considered, what Haut Medoc claret is about. 92+/100. 'Most intense ever', 'big bruiser', 'needs cellaring'.

Especially striking red violet color. Well composed. Comfortable in its properly ripe fruit, 19 weight, and barrel sojourn components, in equilibrium. A classic Lanessan. Fine and juicy fruit flavor and acidity. Really, just what I want in a Cussac claret. Fine tannin for texture and cellaring. 92+/100.

Parker 91-93: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Larrivaux features baked berries, warm cassis and herbs with pencil shavings and olives notions on the nose. Full, rich and concentrated, it has firm, grainy tannins with nice freshness and great length.'

Decanter 93/100; Wine Enthusiast 93: 'From a deep gravel outcrop in the heart of the Haut-Medoc, this wine offers richness and density. Black fruits show freshness while also melding well with the spicy wood aging. The wine is worth aging. Drink from 2026.'

At Vertheuil, west of Saint Estephe; 55% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 3% petit verdot, 2% cabernet franc; aged 10 months in barrels, 30% new. Medium dark ruby. Lots of flair and fashion. Positively gorgeous, sweet, black, stalwart Haut Medoc fruit with cab sauv form and merlot filling, and oak melange. Medium weight. Some backwoods-commune rough texture and tannin. Nose reads 'drink me'; palate reads 'wait'. Well priced. 91+/100.

At Cissac; 45% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 15% petit verdot, 5% cab franc; average vine age 37 years; aged a year in barrels, 20% new. Certainly a lot of black fruit here, with the darker varieties in the majority. Relative ease and forward nature of 2019. Solid Cissac foundation. Yes, good 2019 ease and flow at age four. The barrel influence is well integrated now. A good Haut Medoc representative. 91/100. 'Well done; pretty classy Haut Medoc; oak in reasonable balance for a younger wine,' stated one attendee.

Vineyards in both Saint Sauveur and neighboring Pauillac; same owner as Domaine de Chevalier. Good red violet 2019 claret color. Well poised and fashioned if still rather reticent at opening. Fuller, rounder, and more flavorful and forthcoming on the palate. Fine claret form, balance, style. Touch of Chevalier elegance. Tempered by time in barrels. Everything lays right to the finish. 92+/100.

45% cabernet sauvignon, 55% merlot. The estate's third wine, from vineyards outside the Moulis AOC. Pretty damn sophisticated for a third wine. Vineyards likely inland from Moulis and on more clay than gravel. Thus the merlot predominance. This plays out well. Spicy oak and good fruit ripeness. Cabernet and merlot fruit complementary. Sweet blackcurrant and cherry. Seems based on gravel, not clay. It's Poujeaux stalwart and upscale. Yes, merlot fruit richness, cabernet form and tannin. Clearly some barrel upbringing too. Wow, lavish oak and sweet black fruit come forth with aeration. Well crafted. Bravo! 92+/100.

Cab sauv, merlot, cab franc, petit verdot. Wow. That has a revealing fruitiness. More so at a young age than many a recent vintage. Yes, plenty of black fruit, barrel earned nuances. Tannin persists though. Grippy finish. 91+/100.

Parker 91: 'Derived from old vines growing in deep gravel soils, the 2019 de Villegeorge is a terrific effort for this 12-hectare Avensan estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cigar wrapper, petals and sweet soil tones, it's medium-bodied, supple and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a seamless, complete profile. A fine value, it's well worth seeking out. Drink now-2042.'

At Avensan; 55% cab sauv, 45% merlot; 12 months in barrels, 20% new; one of only six Crus Exceptionnel in the 1932 cru bourgeois classification. Suckling 92/100.

Parker 91; Wine Spectator 92: 'Shows a darker profile than most of its AOC brethren, with dark plum and black cherry fruit forming the core, while hints of singed bay leaf, warm earth and dark tobacco peek through. Reveals an earthy tug through the finish, too. Approachable now but no rush. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2034.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'This wine shows its Saint-Estephe origin with its solid, firm tannins. It has perfumed black currant fruit flavors for the future. Ripe and still maturing, the wine will be ready from 2026. $30.'

Wine Enthusiast 93 - EDITORS' CHOICE: 'Beautifully mature, this ripe wine with black-fruit and smoky flavors has soft tannins. The structure gives shape to the secondary flavors that are now developing. It is ready to drink.'

49% each cab sauv, merlot, plus cab franc and petit verdot. 40% aged in new barrels, 40% in once filled, 20% in twice filled. That's Saint Estephe solidity, the finesse of a Saint Estephe on gravel near the estuary, the oak extras that have marked de Pez wines of late, and some of the fruit plumpness of 2018. All adds up. Yes, stalwart, solid, nobly oaky. But pretty tannic still. Has it all for cellar potential. At my age, I won't be investing in it though. Just recommending it! I had some 1970 de Pez in the cellar until not long ago. 93+/100.

On Gunz gravel; 66% cab sauv, 34% merlot; average age of vines 25 years; aged a year in barrels, 40% new. Compared to the 2019 Chateau Fourcas Dupre that preceded this, similar percentage yet a stronger cab sauv statement, in frame as well as the cassis facet. And more oak--good oak. Yes, Pauillac more significant, fuller bodied, fuller extracted, and tannic. A rightful rep of Pauillac at a price seldom seen these days. Best vintage of Bellegrave I'm tasted. 93+/100.

James Suckling 96; Wine Spectator 93: 'Ripe and juicy, with a youthfully compact core of steeped plum, blueberry and black currant fruit. The finish is scored by violet and singed apple wood notes, with a tug of tar peeking in as well. Offers ample fruit and inner freshness, so this should open up soon enough. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2038.'

Est. 1457; bought by Anthony Barton's daughter, Lilian, in 2011; she's now in charge of all three Barton Chateaux; 59% cab sauv; 35%, merlot, 6% cab franc; aged in barrels 12-15 months, 1/3 new. Yeah, the new oak is there. Yet, in the true Barton fashion, it's always the seasoning and not the main course. An upscale Moulis with a Gunz gravel basis. Great development for the AOC. Yeah, this is far more sophisticated than the Moulis average cru bourgeois. Intricate texture as well as flavor. Exciting new discovery for this Moulis fancier. 93+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 91/100.

Highest vineyards of the Left Bank; on gravel; 66% cab sauv, 33% merlot, 1% petit verdot; aged a year on barrels, 1/3 new. Mellow oakiness plays a great role here. Well balanced, well textured. Great mouthfeel. The tannins are manageable here. Not as come hither as the popular 2018 and 2019 here. Patience will have its rewards. 92+/100.

Highest vineyards of the Left Bank; on gravel; 66% cab sauv, 33% merlot, 1% petit verdot; aged a year on barrels, 1/3 new. A freshness and lift of 2019 to it. Not so lush and fruit forward as the popular 2018. The blackberry cab sauv comes forth with 2019 charm, and the barrel impact it well taken up already, so positive. All plays out well on the palate, the medium weight, the refined oak, the lightly chewy tannin, and the overall harmony. All about gravel. No backwoods Listrac clay to it. Handsome Left Bank claret presentation. Very popular claret value. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'The 2020 Baron de Brane is a blend of 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 58% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-black colored, it leaps from the glass with vibrant notes of crushed black and red currants, black raspberries and bay leaves, plus hints of lavender and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate is soft and refreshing with lively fruit and an herbal lift on the finish. Drink 2023-2030.'

Suckling 93/100.

Second wine; from younger vines; 52% cab sauv, 48% merlot; aged 16 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Ah, that special Margaux perfume coupled with yet another example of skillful application of new barrels. This is gentler, lusher, more 2018 fruit abundant. A top drawer second wine. Yes, Margaux velvet textured as well as violet perfumed. Superior to what was labeled the Grand Vin a couple of generations back. Tannin to spare for cellaring as well. 94+/100.

60% cab sauv, 40% merlot. 35% new barrels - high for a second wine. Just a stunning red violet color. Full charm of d'Issan. Full elegance of Margaux. A pattern for all Margaux. Good, rich 15 fruit, especially rich for a second wine. Not at the cost of elegance. For a second wine, this is just as classy as it comes. Definitive of site, appellation, and style. And vintage. Nice and rich palate. The vintage is really talkin'. This is richer than the norm here. Admirably ripe fruit, fine tannins. Well padded. Very fine effort. 93/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Silky and refined in feel, with perfumy black currant paste, plum reduction and blackberry compote notes forming the core while sandalwood, black tea and cedar accents drape the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2034.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Marquis d'Alesme has tuned out well, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, woodsmoke, licorice and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's supple and charming, with a succulent core of fruit, powdery tannins and fine length. Drink 2025-2045.'

Wine Enthusiast 92: 'Young but already elegant and complex, this wine is destined for long-term aging. Ripe blackberry fruits and serious tannins will take time to mature. Drink from 2025 when this wine will be in balance.'

James Suckling 96/100.

Wine Enthusiast 95: 'From the partner estate to Chateau Giscours, this wine is as elegant as you would expect. While it is structured, it also has ripe fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The dry and firm core of this wine will propel it forward. Drink from 2027. $70.'

Marie Laure Lurton, proprietor; at Soussans; 54% merlot, 43% cab sauv, 2% cab franc, 1% petit verdot; 10-14 months in barrels. Improving each quality vintage as its vines mature. There's a Margaux charm aspect and cabernet on gravel black currant. Close, tart, tannic upon opening. Hopefully this will open up as it airs. The material is there. And it did to considerable extent, offering on the palate more fruit, more oak, and that lovely cabernet cedar suggestion. Widely appreciated by the group, with the caveat it needs more cellar time. 92+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94 - CELLAR SELECTION: 'Situated in one of the northern sectors of Margaux, this estate was created in the 13th century. This sumptuous wine has enormous power that is mitigated by the taut, mineral texture and black-currant flavors. It is a finely wrought wine that will take time to age. Drink from 2024.'

2018: Powerful, amply 2018 fruit-abundant, and well endowed with barrel contributions too. Grand Cru presentation, for sure. Lush and velvety 2018 fruit modulated by the oak spiel. Fine grained and well managed tannins. A top vintage of this, and it's well priced for its pedigree, quality, and potential. 94+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 95: 'Solid tannins mark this still very young wine. At the same time, the fruit is rich and well proportioned. Black currants dominate the fruity spectrum, giving the wine richness as well as great potential. Drink from 2025.'

Wine Enthusiast 92 - CELLAR SELECTION: 'This beautifully balanced wine is rich and stylish. Classic black currant flavors enhanced by judicious wood aging have a smoky edge as well as fresh fruitiness and the potential for richness as the wine develops. Drink from 2023. $40.'

Wine Spectator 91; Parker 91: 'The 2014 Latour-Martillac has an attractive bouquet with intense blackberry, briary, warm gravel and balsamic notes that are very well defined and evoke Pessac-Leognan through and through. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannin. It feels gentle in the mouth, not structured but fleshy and full, fanning out with crushed strawberry, red cherry and white pepper towards the satisfying finish. This is early drinking compared to its peers, yet well crafted. 2019 to 2032.'

Second wine of Grand Cru Malartic Lagraviere; 83% merlot, 12% cab sauv, 5% petit verdot; 16 months in barrels, 25% new; Decanter 91/100. Dark ruby and earning some rim ruddiness. Well, the sweetness of merlot, the black earth impression I get from good Graves clarets, though, of course, that's not the terroir. Nice flow of 2019. Barrel contributions are now nicely absorbed. Has vintage and Malartic stylishness about it. And a promising, mid term development potential. 92+/100. Well liked: 'really good; classy; very rich, long flavors; great value.'

Jeb Dunnuck 95/100.

Parker 93: 'Offering up inviting aromas of plums, raspberries, violets, vine smoke and raw cocoa, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with velvety tannins, succulent acids and an elegant, complete profile. This beautiful wine includes some 15% Cabernet Franc.'

Owned by the Cuveliers of Clos Fourtet and Ch Poujeaux; 70% merlot, 20% cab franc, 10% cab sauv, vines averaging 40 years; aged up to 18 months in barrels, 50% new. Whoa! Here's a full dose of oak augmentation. Well absorbed at this stage. Overall, a very sophisticated wine. That's what Grand Cru Classe terroir is about. This really is a splendid Saint Emilion GCC value. Yes, GCC complex and noble. Intricate flavor profile. Tannins fine and laid back. For use or cellaring. 94+/100.

Under vine since Roman times & Famille Beaulieu for 400 years; on limestone between Chateaux Angelus & Beausejour; 60% merlot (vines up to 100 yrs old), 30% cab franc, 7% malbec, 3% cab sauv; barrel aged 18 months. Good fruit and aromatic complexity, if subtle, understated. Welcome acidity and minerality. Well balanced. Very popular with the Europhiles. Well crafted in 2017. Bravo. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 93: 'This rolls through with a cashmere grace, offering cassis, steeped plum and blackberry purée flavors infused with black tea and incense notes. A late alder thread keeps this nicely grounded. Suave. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2035.'

Second wine of a Grand Cru Classe Chateau on the limestone plateau; 95% merlot, 5% cab franc from the property's younger vines; aged 15 months in once filled oak barrels. GCC and barrel aged nobility is clear. Very sophisticated for a second wine. And tres claret. Doesn't show its reported high alcohol level. Sweet and easy 2019 style. This has good flow already. No tannin obstacles. Class act. 93+/100.

Parker 92: 'Aromas of dusty berries, cherries, warm spices and petals introduce the 2020 Fonroque, a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy wine with a vibrant core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish. As readers may remember, part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink 2025-2045.'

Parker 92: 'The 2019 Fonroque has turned out nicely, offering up aromas of blackberries, minty cassis, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a rich, generous, demonstrative wine that remains nicely balanced. Part of Fonroque's biodynamically farmed holdings are located on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, and the rest on the slopes, with more clay and colluvium. Drink now-2039.'

85% merlot, 15% cab sauv. Dark red black color. This is the best of these I've nosed. Full 2018 fruit bounty plus the most oak expression I've found. Palate is equally full of fruit and oak. Full textured too. Fine acidity. Tannin to shed. Ultimately, pretty serious Grand Cru stuff. Will cellar. 93+/100.

At Libourne; 85% merlot, 15% cab franc averaging 35 years; est. 1880; adjacent to Chateau Figeac; aged 6 months is all new barrels. 2018 fruit amplitude matched and tempered by the barrel influence. This is not new-barrel oaky. The brief stay and the bottle-age earned integration leaves the oak complexing but short of dominating. Yes, a rich melange of 18 ripe fruit and barrel savors. Alcohol gives body without heat. A lot of Saint Emilion for the bucks. 92+/100.

Parker 93: 'The 2020 Couvent des Jacobins bursts with aromas of minty blackberries, plums, incense and rose petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming palate that's framed by powdery tannins. A gourmand, seamless wine, this will offer a broad drinking window. It's a blend of Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Drink 2025-2050.'

2016: Part of the Clarence Dillon (Haut Brion) group. Saint Emilion richness and roundness plus very polished and sophisticated barrel extras. Oh, the roundness and succulence of the fruit, exceptional for 2016. Plus the 16 burnished texture, good control, and tailoring. Total balance. Long finish. Fine cellar potential. 94+/100.

Parker 90-92: 'The 2020 Saintayme is 100% Merlot, harvested between the 28th and the 30th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.5% and is aging in French oak barrels, 30% new. Deep purple-black colored, it needs a little coaxing to unlock scents of tar, forest floor and aniseed, over a core of baked black plums, blackberry pie and chocolate-covered cherries, plus a touch of dried mint. The full-bodied palate is densely packed with muscular black fruits and loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on a lingering minty note. Drink 2024-2038.'

Suckling 93: 'Smoke, pine needles, bark and currants follow through to a full body with layers of firm yet round tannins and a chewy finish.' Aged 15 months in barrels, 35% new.'

Famille Lagardere; 95% merlot, 5% cab franc; aged 18 months in vat; Michel Rolland's team consults. Much sweeter and more alluring. Vintage, age, merlot all add up. Very seductive merlot aroma with good, dark cab franc structure. Good acid. Balanced. Flavors still forming. There's some tannin, well padded as it is. Could use a bit more cellar time. Good value. I'd be keeping it a few months longer. 91+/100.

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. A full, rich, round wine as it ought to be given zone and vintage. The barrel influence is evident and positive. Cellar temperature boosts the tannin effect. Flavorful of merlot and barrel in harmony. 2020 framing. Generosity that is Saint Emilion. 91+/100. Tannins widely noted, and fruit level to stand up to them. Well liked overall.

90% merlot, 10% cab franc; 20+ year old vines; 30% aged in once and twice used oak barrels. A softer, more welcoming nose. 2019 forward and racy. Oh, that's a lovely, elegant take on merlot. Yes, the forward fruit, the ease, the balance. Lower level tannins. Can be served now. 92/100.

Parker 91: 'The 2016 Du Courlat has a rich, slightly jammy bouquet with redcurrant and cranberry fruit. The palate is well balanced with juicy tannins, rich but nicely controlled with a very poised and tensile finish. Now this is a lovely Lussac Saint Emilion in the making. One to watch out for.'

Proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix; 82% merlot, 8% cab sauv, 10% cab franc; average vine age: 33 years; aged 6 months in barrels, half new, half once used. This has ample oak influence, including the more dramatic new barrel effects. Large, dark, and complex 2018. Vies with Saint Emilion proper--even Grand Cru. Palate backward yet clearly loaded for bear. Full body, texture, breadth, depth. The tannins are fine grained, if obstinate still. Cellar it 2-3 years. 93+/100.

Once owned by Roman poet Ausonius.; 55 year old vines; 70% merlot, 30% cab franc; aged 15 months in barrels, 1/3 new. Deep red violet color. Black fruited and serious 2020 vintage product. Not as fruity and flowing as the 2018 and 2019. Black through and through. Important measure of barrel savors too, Big time satellite claret. Just as dark and surly on the palate. Tannin calls for keeping. Real black cherry and raspberry fruit concentration. Awesome future. 93+/100.

2016: Decanter 92: 'Aged in oak for 18 months, the 5-year-old St Emilion is already exhibiting tertiary complexity such as mushroom and forest floor, in addition to vanilla-spiced dark plum and cassis notes. Juicy fruit cake on the palate with creamy chocolate and tea, supported by chalky tannins and elegant acidity.'

Wine Spectator 92: 'This has a succulent feel, pulling you into its mix of fresh plum, red cherry and raspberry coulis flavors while bergamot and red tea accents stay in the background. Finish is juicy but tightly focused, with an underlying chalky thread lending precision. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2030.'

At Saillans; merlot, cab franc, cab sauv, malbec; aged 20 months in barrels. Fronsac forthright, Fronsac solid. Given this firm basis, there's plenty of material to work with its generous oak intricacies, to stay free of over-oakiness. That lush 2018 fruit definition, good acid, plenty of oak complications. Never loses its sense of place. Fine tannin points to cellaring prospects. 92+/100.

Parker 92: 'A terrific effort from this large and immaculately maintained property on the clay-limestone slopes of the Côtes de Castillon, the 2019 d'Aiguilhe exhibits aromas of cherries and cassis mingled with notions of burning embers, licorice and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a mineral finish, it's intelligently matured in tank and large-format oak as well as small barriques. Drink now-2039.'

The prestige cuvee; 80% merlot, 20% cab franc. Serious dose of new oak to this tip of the pyramid cuvee. Fruit depth and concentration to take it all up. An upscale Castillon. Still pretty heavy in the oak flavors and tannins. They won't outlive the fruit; that's intense and compact and all present. Ambitious. Requires cellaring. 92+/100.

In the commune of Belves at one of the highest points of the appellation. On a continuation of Saint Emilion's clay-limestone slope. 80% merlot, 18% cab franc, 2% cab sauv. Wine Enthusiast 93/100. My notes: Dark, with a slight ruddy cast at age 6. Boy, two years older but equally fresh and youthful. Sweet merlot to the fore, in a more linear form of 2016. Clearly there are oak contributions. Well, falling into a bit of a trough like many a 2016 claret at this stage. Less flavor and more tannin impact. No problem. Plenty of bouquet potential. 92+/100.

2018: 95% merlot, 5% cab franc; owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; barrel aged 15 months. Well, this is good Castillon terrior (an eastern extension of the Saint Emilion cote) and Grand Cru Classe elevage. Folks are going to have to learn that Castillons nurtured in this fashion are worth over thirty bucks. Ripe 2018 fruit and intricate barrel nuances. Deep, full, lasting. One of the best. Full bodied and full flavored. Full of 2018 merlot richness and savor. And so finely imparted barrel embellishments. I'm in awe. 94+/100.

All merlot; second wine of Chateau l'Hetre, owned by the Thienponts of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin; from younger vines and parcels on the lower slopes. Deep red violet. While dominated by sweet, ripe, concentrated merlot fruit, there's a surprising measure of oak sophistication evident for a second wine. Full Thienpont class. White dwarf extract compactness on the palate. And considerable tannin for merlot. That's 2020, and, I suspect, a measure of press wine. 100% allure on the nose; resistance (but potential) on the palate. 92+/100.

Famille Taix; 20 acres on the limestone plateau and clayey slope; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc; a minor percentage aged in new barrels. Well, that minor percentage goes a long ways toward contributing to aromatic range, complexity, and suavity of the nose. Good and generous, ripe Castillon fruit of the Saint Emilion's cote's eastern extension. Great acid here too. And mellow Castillon richness. Consistent overachiever. 92/100.

Deep, dark definition of 2018, with the usual ripe-fruit style of this Chateau. Youthful fruit. Spices emerge with aeration, and the nose gathers depth. Dense and spicy. Plenty of good, fine-grained tannin. Good acidity. The vintage talks the talk. While ripe, the acid reads Euro. Tannin builds at the end. Everything points to a positive evolution. 91+/100.

Jed Dunnock 94; James Suckling 94.

Wonderfully ripe fruit of 2015 in the simultaneously rich and racy Francs style. Good spread of feels and flavors on the palate. The magnum size retards bouquet development, so cellaring a few years will be rewarded. 91+/100.

Owned by Hebrard (formerly of Cheval Blanc) and de Bouard (Angelus); highest vineyard of the AOC; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc; aged 14 months in barrels, 1/3 new; Wine Enthusiast 92/100. Great power, merlot sweetness, and considerable barrel impact. Grand Cru ambitions. And a good measure of tannin, as the 2018s are beginning to reveal as the original fruit plumpness dries up to an extent with bottle age. Its long range intentions preclude present senses of proportion and pleasure. 92+/100.

Mostly merlot. A dark, rich, and hearty 2018 Bourg. Wow, this is deep purple fruit of 2018. Really fills up the nostrils. Upholds Bourg's reputation for generous clarets. Better than the last vintage we had, which as damn good. full Bourg impact and generosity. Yes, lush, purple fruit to the fore with compensating acid and fine tannin. So cellarworthy as well as ready to take on strong fare. 91+/100.

Decanter 97/100 - PLATINUM AWARD. My notes: At Berson; est. 1464; 87% merlot, 10% cab sauv, 3% cab franc. Dark red violet. Full and quite firm yet at opening. Plenty of material; shy on aroma. Oh, a good juicy merlot cherry flavor. Much more yielding on the palate. Exhibits strength, extract, and fine grained tannins. Well balanced. I like its prospects. 91+/100.

The prestige cuvee. 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv. Nice and spicy nose. Barrel aging stuff going on here. Yes, mellowed by barrel aging too. Baking spices. Quite the treat. 92/100.

Famille Martin; 80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; 2/3 aged a year in barrels. Always the oak complex here. I haven't found a Blayais wine as much barrel influenced as this one, except Roland la Garde's elite cuvee. Oh, and there's 2018 fruit abundance to match. Both fruit and oak tannins close down the palate to an extent. Material, texture, extract, balance. Deep, rich, complex, long. Serious stuff; ambitious stuff. 92+/100.

Suckling 93: 'A delicious savory red with blackcurrant chocolate and cedar aromas and flavors. It's medium-bodied with fine round tannins. Fresh and bright. It opens at the end and becomes chewy and intense. Give this two or three years to soften but it's already focused.' By the de Bouards of Chateau Angelus. From vineyards they own in Castillon and Saint Colombe on clay-limestone slopes.'

Smooth, forward 2019 middle weight claret. Well presented. Sweet, modern, appealing. After further aeration: Wow! Expressive and alluring/ Palate confirms these impressions fully. Fresh and upbeat. Balanced. Makes for attractive current drinking. Very flavorful follow through. 91/100.

60% merlot, 30% cab sauv, 10 % cab franc. Smells 2018 lush. Tastes that way too. Merlot rich dominance supported by the cabernets' dark fruit. Good acid. Talks the vintage talk. Deal. 91/100.

Suckling 91/100. My notes: At Villegouge. Merlot and cab sauv. Oh, that is a sweet, bright cherry merlot nose. Yes, with tarry extras. Fine tannin for texture. Good acid. I can see the rating. 91+/100.

98% merlot, 2% cabernet franc. 43 year old vines. 9 months in barrels, half new. Owned by the Janoueix family. Oh, charm, oak, finesse, barrel time, everything. Perfect. Perfectly proportioned. Super value. 92/100.

In the Fronsac area; 90% merlot, 10% cab franc. Wow, this is a merlot bomb framed by 2020 structural casing. We last had the 2018, and that was almost too fruity. The 2020 structure gives this a more claret like disposition. Yeah, plenty of fruit but also framework, good acid, and tannin. These 2020s are not as gentle as the 18s and 19s. 91+/100.

At Montussan, northern Entre deux Mers; all merlot; proprietors Philippe Nunes & Hubert de Bouard de Laforest. Full red violet color saturation. Good and ripe fruit, especially for 2016. A very silky nasal texture. Bouard hand shows here. And there's some barrel upbringing evident. Yes, there's the 2016 fine tannin and the good, ripe, yet well controlled Bouard merlot approach. Long finish. Fine modern claret. Bouard's got the skills to pay the bills. 92+/100.

From Issan's vineyards on the richer palus soils between Margaux's gravels and the estuary; 90% merlot, 10% cab sauv. Oak enters the scene here. Adds dimension. Solid fruit basis. Some dry oak tannins in youth. First of the reds this evening that I'd advise cellaring. Persistent aftertaste and texture. 92+/100. Aeration brought out more flavor, better balance, enhanced oak/fruit complexity, range, and sophistication. Judged a great value. Many attendees' wine of the evening.

2016: At St. Genis du Bois; 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot. Gold Medal - Bordeaux. Lots of purple-black cab sauv fruit. Richly fruited wine with seemingly some seasoned barrel aging influence. Really well put together combo of varietals. Good cabernet tannin. And the cabernet fruit is fully ripe. Deliciously balanced and overall very, very fine. 91+/100.

All old vines merlot. Very dark color. Sweetness of merlot with old vines and vintage courage. Suggestions of barrel aging complex. Damn good, well concentrated. Dense and yet juicy on the palate. This has more bulk and fortitude than many an all merlot of regional appellation. Earns the higher price. Balance and tannin for longevity. 91+/100.

At Soussac, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 30% cab franc, 20% cab sauv. The wine is bright and wholesome and youthful. Sweet and simply proffered claret of the region. Flavorful. With aearation comes an allspice note. Well textured. A little fine grained tannin to shed. Versatile at the table. I'm thinking lamb chops. 90/100.

70% merlot, 20% cab franc, 10% cab sauv.

Decanter 91/100. My notes: 60% merlot, 40% cab sauv. Well constituted and in tune with the series. 2018 plumpness flatters this wine. Yes, it's rich and relatively forward. Flavorful, well balanced, well textured. A top vintage of this. 91/100.

80% merlot, 20% cab sauv; 20 year old vines. Medium body of 2019. Ripe enough, and starting to develop a patina of bouquet. Flavorful of merlot soft black and red fruits. A satisfying glass of claret at the special price. 90/100. Well liked; deemed a great value; many orders taken. 'Real Bordeaux nose and flavor; very drinkable.' 'Classic Bordeaux nose and palate.'

Rich merlot dominance. 18 black fruit. Really quite dense and powerful for its appellation. Yes, rich, black, well rounded merlot palate. Fine body and flavor intensity. Really delivers for the price. I'll be buying this one. 91+/100.

Famille Chollet since 1865; vineyard borders Lussac St. Emilion; 80% merlot, 20% the cabernets. A lot of sweet merlot fruit out in front. It does exude Saint Emilion area generosity. Runs deep too. Yeah, very rich and ample for its modest AOC and low price. No intrusive 2020 tannins. A lot of Right Bank claret for the money. 91/100.

At Gornac. 85% merlot, 15% cab sauv. Ripe and seductive merlot aroma. Smoky ripe. Confirmed, with good acid, form. Modern claret at its best. 91/100.

Suckling 91: 'This shows lots of fruit and walnut character with some chocolate. It's medium-bodied with lovely, integrated tannins and a juicy finish.'

Proprietor Olivier Banier. 14.5%. 65% merlot, 15% each of the cabernets. A delight. 19 combo of richness and race. Fruit out in front, expressed in true claret moderation. Race, fruit, balance, 19 claret stylishness. Great acid. Buy it! 91/100. Packed in branded wood cases of 12 bottles.

5-acre family estate at Escoussans on the right bank of the Garonne. Partly due to the power, this claret of the humble Bordeaux AOC doesn't back down from the Medocs that preceded it in the tasting order. It's pretty full bodied, certainly 2018 rich fruited. Palate speaks the same language. A really generous 2018 style that holds its power well. Fine tannin on the long finish. The group was impressed with the value. 91+/100.

Est. 1930 at Saint Andre du Bois, on the Right Bank of the Garonne northeast of Langon; mainly merlot and cab sauv, with a little cab franc and malbec. This has good body and power. It doesn't shy away from the competition. Nice merlot fruit sweetness. Oh, this is a rich one. The forward black fruit of 18 and the power of 15. Very large for 19. Deep and spicy. Merlot continues its cherry fruit dominance on the palate, the others adding framework and tannin. Priceworthy cellar candidate. Best from 2024-2026. The group appreciated the value here. 91+/100.

All merlot. More accommodating than the Haut Genin. Quite suave. Good acid again. 91+/100.

Parker 91-93: 'Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Marjosse comes barreling out of the glass with rambunctious scents of cassis, crushed blackberries and black plum preserves, followed by hints of dark chocolate, anise and tar, plus a fragrant waft of lavender. The medium-bodied palate is soft, juicy and wonderfully refreshing, delivering wonderful poise and expression with a fun burst of pure black fruit on the finish. Delicious! Drink 2024-2030.'

At Saint Martial (Entre deux Mers); named for a pine tree on its grounds, the oldest in Bordeaux; 60% merlot, 20% each of the cabernets; Gold Medal - Paris; Gold Medal - Lyon. Wow, is that rich and powerful for claret. Full bodied and well balanced if you can appreciate the strength (15% according to the label). Otherwise, over the top. I can see the medals. It's a Show Wine. 91+/100.

First time in MI in decades; at La Sauve, Entre deux Mers; still owned by Famille Courselle; 70% merlot, 30% cab sauv. 2018 and merlot fruity. Good cab sauv darker fruit element and structural contribution. Well conceived and executed. Persistent aroma and flavor carry through. Acid and tannin tame the vintage exuberance. Eminently well balanced and long lasting. 91/100. One attendee mention of 'black dirt'. That reads Graves rouge to me, so surely a compliment.

At Moulon; 80% merlot, 10% each of the cabernets. Deep, dark red violet. Nose a bit reticent. There's good fruit material deep down there. Should improve with aeration. Richer and more flavorful on the palate. Vintage and merlot forward and accommodating in the mouth. This has form, depth, and balance too. And acid and light tannin. Our first 2022 claret is a winner. 91+/100. Widely appreciated; orders taken. 'Ripe, and fine concentration. Primary and juicy.' Good length, good value.' Attendees noted that the tannins won't take long to resolve.

At Targon, Entre deux Mers; 60% merlot, 35% cab sauv, 5% cab franc on limestone, clay, and gravel; average age of vines: 35 years. Takes the pedal off the metal. This is truly stylish CLARET. Merlot gives plush filling and the cabernets (and the vintage) good framework. Harmonious; come hither. Equally elegant and gently flowing on the palate. The alcohol is barely perceptible. No heat. 91/100.

Suckling 92/100.

Est. 1705; managed and made by La Gaffeliere's team 90% merlot, 10% cab franc. Frank and fulfilled, well projected merlot emphasis with 2019 ease. Pretty full bodied for vintage and appellation. This has bulked up since last tasted. Aeration is a factor as well as age. Yes, a demonstrative merlot show, so well crafted in the right hands. Well textured and flavorful. The tannins are fine grained and don't preclude present drinking with dinner, though they promise improvement in the cellar. A balanced presentation. Tres claret. 91+/100. The commentators' choice of the Bordeaux AOC quartet tasted this evening. 'Complex, balanced, very classy.'

Vigneron at Rimons, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 25% each of the cabernets; 30 year old vines. Medium dark red violet. Concentrated claret aromatic set. The power is positive, if not classic. This is meaty. Some 2020 tannin to resolve yet. And some youthful flavor retardation. I like its body, extract, and mouth-filling qualities. Very satisfying. 91+/100. Liked by attendees. 'Lots here. Lots of depth, body, flavor. Good quality fruit. Tannins manageable. Cellar a year or two.' 'With cellar time, will become a lovely wine.'

2019: 1 bottle each CHATEAU DUBOIS CLAVERIE Est. 1869; 58% merlot, 32% cab sauv, 10% cab franc. CHATEAU CATHALOGNE 50% each merlot, cab sauv. CHATEAU GRAND MEYNAU. Est. 1915; at Saint Avit de Soulege, Entre deux Mers; 50% merlot, 20% malbec, 10% each of the cabernets. CHATEAU LE BOURDILEY At Souligac, Entre deux Mers; 80% merlot, 20% the cabernets. CHATEAU FRANC COUPLET 60% merlot, 25% cab sauv, 15% cab franc. CHATEAU PONCHARAC At Blaisimon, Entre deux Mers; 80% mlero5t, 10% each of the cabernets. In a branded wood presentation case with map and descriptions.

1 bottle each 17 CHATEAU CURTON LA PERRIERE, 17 CHATEAU DE BERNADON, 16 CHATEAU LA ROSE GADIS. In a branded wood presentation case.

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'Rich, ageworthy Semillon combines with crisper Sauvignon Blanc in this satisfyingly ripe wine. Still young, it has a rich, full-bodied future that will keep the wine's freshness in focus. Drink from 2023.'

Wine Enthusiast 95 - CELLAR SELECTION: 'This estate, particularly well known for its white wines, has lived up to its reputation in this new release. The wine is rich while also taut, young and textured. Spice from wood aging comes in at the end. Drink from 2026.'

Second wine of Grand Cru Classe Chateau Latour Martillac. Semillon and sauvignon blanc. Still shy, but clearly full bodied and well crafted. Some barrel influence. Nice lemon/lime and passion fruit flavors. Grand Cru full, even powerful. It would be a shame to serve it now. It will be so much more accomplished a few months down the line. 92+/100.

Proprietor Antoine de Roquefeuil; in the family since the Revolution; on the left bank of the Garonne next to the Graves AOC; 75% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon. Very zingy and incisive ruby red grapefruit aroma. Round, sweet, soft tropical fruit aspects in addition. And cat pee. Yes, passion fruit comes into play. Intensely flavorful and well polished. Quite the nice, new discovery here. Lasting aftertaste, balanced as well. 92/100.

2021: Proprietor Herve Dubourdieu; 60% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vines averaging 35 years; unfiltered. The Dubourdieus are masters of dry semillon. That usual custardy goodness without any earthy drawbacks Conveys semillon fatness and weight, cut and lifted by sauvignon brisk citrus. Muscadelle's green fruit registers too. Oh, and the complete flavor spectrum as described. Dashing and delightful in cool 2021. Has it all together. Most excellent, dude. 92/100.

75% semillon, 20% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; vine age 45-48 years; unfiltered. Semillon smoothness, fullness. Suggestion of the others' citrus and green-fruit counter. Still, this is playing it pretty close to the vest, aromatically. More flavor than aroma. Sauvignon fatness, the others' cut. Works nicely on the palate already. Good acidity, length. I think it will deliver more come late summer, early fall. 91+/100.

80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon. Bright sauvignon citricity in a user friendly vintage. And the usual semillon padding. In tune with a successful series. Lasting, refreshing finish. 16.5.

70% sauvignon blanc, 15% each semillon, muscadelle; 20 year old vines. Quiet nose at opening. Some sauvignon citrus, plumpness of semillon, green fruit of muscadelle. 2021 acid gives good vigor. There's a better flavor than aroma spread of varietal traits, in harmony. Texturally satisfying too. 90/100. Generally liked. 'Solid quality.' 'Grass notes; spicy finish.' Orders taken.

At La Sauve; 50% sauvignon blanc, 20% each sauvignon gris, muscadelle, 10% semillon. Every vintage this supplies a peacock's tail display of its full EdM varietal range. Besides the foundation sauvignon blanc, there's the plumpness of gris and semillon, the green fruit of muscadelle. Yeah, that ying-yang of crisp blanc and muscadelle versus gris and semillon. Exciting for both aromatic and textural spreads. Vigorous as well as complex this vintage. 92/100. Widely enjoyed by the group. Orders taken.

In Entre deux Mers; sauvignon blanc and semillon. Pretty quiet nose at cold temperature. Warming in the mouth doesn't help it along much aromatically. Seems properly proportioned enough. Just speechless at opening. Take it away, group. Attendees took it and ran with it. 'Best white Bordeaux in a long time.' 'Gooseberry sauvignon nose, semillon rich palate, good acid cut, good value.' 'Gooseberry, mineral, great acid; pretty and food friendly.' They LIKED it! 91/100.

At Tizac de Curton; owner: Pierre Lurton; old vine sauvignon blanc, sauvignon gris, semillon, and muscadelle. Total entertainment as the varietals parade by in sequence and in step. Generally round and sweetly fruity thanks to the gris and semillon. With further sniffing, the cutting edge of sauvignon and muscadelle comes forth to etch my nostrils. Complete package. Oh, that incisive fruit acidity! While roundness forms its background. Complete varietal spread, very well assembled. Plenty of fruit intensity, breadth, and depth. A four ring circus of EdM white varieties. Tangy finish. Lucien Lurton's heirs are good! 92/100.

At Saint Loubes, in northern Entre deux Mers bordering the Dordogne across from Fronsac. Closed up nose upon opening. With aeration citricity comes in a Bordeaux sauvignon's sensible rather than exaggerated manner. Understated tangerine and mango flavors mark the palate. Very nice balance, burnished texture, and extended finish carry it along. Ultimately, a winner. 91/100. 'Very easy to drink; a summer day on a glass.'

Est. 1705; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon; by the winemaker at Chateau La Gaffeliere. More citrusy sauvignon still. Again, the semillon padding. Brisk acid here too. A less shrill, more rounded palate overall. A bit more body. Eminently well balanced. Each begging for a plateau de fruits de mer. 91/100.

Grower at Rimons, Entre deux Mers; 95% sauvignon blanc, 5% semillon; 30 year old vines. That's clean as a whistle, modest in alcohol, and doesn't scream sauvignon blanc. Her style preference harkens to old time classicism. Nothing blowsy or overdone. Palate gives added assurance. Not made to impress. Made to be food compatible, which is enough of a positive impression for me. 91/100.

Famille Lesgourgues; all sauvignon blanc; on the Dordogne's Right Bank near Saint Emilion. Former vintages included some semillon. Cool, calm, and collected Bordeaux sauvignon. Citrus emphasis; no soft tropical fruits that have been creeping into Bordeaux sauvignons, not for the worse, but blurring some regionality. Yeah, it's purely citrus, lightly lemony in particular. Light bodied and easy flowing. Aperitif and unadorned fish courses. 91/100. Attendees confirmed the citrus face of sauvignon and found this an appealing Bordeaux blanc.

Famille Lesgourgue; 80% sauvignon blanc, 20% semillon. This tingles with sauvignon lime, cat, green herbs. Kumquat notions too. From semillon-/ Yeah, both, plus passion fruit. Lovely marriage, very entertaining. And fine balance of sauvignon cut and semillon cushion. Lasting aftertaste. Bravo. 92/100. VERY popular with attendees. 'Lovely Bordeaux nose', 'quite complex', ' great value'. At least two commented on the total absence of sulphur under screwcap--a rarity these days.

85% sauvignon, 15% semillon; at Saint Genis du Bois; named for the estate's director. That's a full and traditional Bordeaux take on sauvignon, plumped up a little by the semillon. Nothing 'tropical' about it. Speaks 'dinner wine'. Yes, the promised largesse in the mouth. Oh, and little passion fruit sneaks in. Mouthfilling, balanced, and delicious, really. Freshest and best vintage yet of this. Great price. 92/100. The panel agreed. Descriptors included cat pee, herbs, tropics, minerals. 'Entertaining.'

At Cessac in the heart of Entre deux Mers;; 6 generation estate; 15 years average vine age; aged on lees. Definite sauvignon contrast after one from the lower Loire. The heavier, thicker, more southern take. No plodder, it has soft tropical fruit highlights. I like it. Yes, this is richer and weightier; still, it has sauvignon race and lift. Good acid for vintage and full and lasting textural appeal. 91/100. Popular with attendees. 'Very aggressive herbal nose; huge herbal palate; lots of wine for the money.'

First time in MI in decades; still owned by Famille Courselle; half each sauvignon blanc, semillon. Cool, clear, fresh, traditional. Likely better at age two than one. A proper set of aromatics, discreetly rendered. Has good textural spiel, harmony, acidity, and mealworthiness. Old reliable Tilly! 91/100.

That's really zippy for Bordeaux sauvignon. Lots of tangelo and passion fruit. Flavors confirm and are just as vivid. Dourthe's always made a good sauvignon. 91/100.

97% semillon, 3% sauvignon blanc. Aged 16 months in barrels, 20% new. Pineapple and honey. Lots of give already. Boy.; sweet honey, pineapple, custard, currant. Special. 93+/100.

Second wine of 1er Grand Cru Chateau Guiraud; 10-15 year old vines; 65% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc. Brassy color. Always a lot of pineapple in Guiraud wines, and high sauvignon freshness. Moderate lushness of 2017, second wine, estate. Good acid. Harmonious and ageworthy. Honeyed aftertaste. Meets expectations. 92+/100.

2017: At Preignac; old vines; 95% semillon, 5% sauvignon blanc; owned by a former part owner of Ch Suduiraut. Overwhelming perfumes of honey and ripe pineapple. Subtle dusting of botrytis pollen. Yes, like previous vintages, this is as sweet as they come, Grand Cru or otherwise. Palate adds almond and hazelnut. Amazing how they do this is a cool, wet vintage. 92+/100.

50 acres in Haut Barsac; 85% semillon, 10% sauvignon blanc, 5% muscadelle; aged in barrels up to 18 months. Barsac's relative coolness and dryness, even in this really ripe vintage. A surprisingly linear Sauternes nose at this stage. Well, the sweetness and honey-peach-pineapple-citrus flavors gush out on the palate. Balanced, lasting. I mean, really good acid for 2015. Not much botrytis. Pretty ambitious price for an unclassified Sauternes. Regardless, Liot has been around a long time, and its wines stay the course. A treat for the group. 92+/100. Tasted 4/27/22. A year later, this was poured at a WCC wine class, and the students were agog. Over the course of 12 months, an already good wine had become great.

At Fargues; owned by the Rothschilds of Chateau Lafite; second wine; named after the Carmelite monks that once owned the property; 80-90% semillon 10-20% sauvignon and muscadelle according to vintage; aged 18 months in barrels. The lush, semillon dominant style of the Grand Vin expressed in nearly the same intensity. Honey, citrus, pineapple, dusty botrytis. Wow. Indeed, balance of sweetness, fruit concentrate, acid, and dry, dusty tobacco leaf botrytis. A masterpiece in a not particularly classic Sauternes vintage. Lasts forever. 96+/100. Unanimous Wine of the Night.

Parker 95: 'With coaxing, the pale lemon colored 2016 Coutet slowly unfurls to give a myriad of preserved lemons, pineapple pastry, almond croissant, fresh ginger and lime blossoms scents with nuances of chalk dust, white pepper, star anise and cedar. Rich, seductive and yet exquisitely balanced, the satiny-textured palate has layer upon layer of citrus and savory notions, finishing very long and spicy. Drink 2021-2044.'

Formerly owned by the Fertals, relatives of a Detroit area wine merchant, du Pavillon has been sold to Olivier Fleury. I've had many a previous vintage to compare to this one, and the style remains consistent and the quality high. Nice, rich, fruity, citrus aroma. Plus a peachy taste. Fully up to snuff Ste. Croix, rivaling a Sauternes. Mmm. 93+/100.

Formerly owned by the Fertals, relatives of a Detroit area wine merchant, du Pavillon has been sold to Olivier Fleury. 80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle. I've had many a previous vintage to compare to this one, and the style remains consistent and the quality high, Sweet ripe pineapple, husk, and fig bouquet. Honeyed citrus, peach, and fig flavors. Good acid to balance sweetness. Ready to enjoy, but no need to rush. . Fully up to snuff Ste. Croix, rivaling a Sauternes. Mmm. 93+/100.

80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle; Gold Medal - Concours Mondial des Feminalise. Wow, pineapple, husk, tupelo honey, singed orange peel, and much, much more. I'm afraid I'm running out of time to take it all in. Succulent, honeyed fruit, stature, and surprising sense of power at 12.5%. Sweetness suppresses full display. Will improve for decades. 93+/100.

80% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc, 2% muscadelle; Gold Medal - Concours Mondial des Feminalise. Wow, pineapple, husk, tupelo honey, singed orange peel, and much, much more. I'm afraid I'm running out of time to take it all in. Succulent, honeyed fruit, stature, and surprising sense of power at 12.5%. Sweetness suppresses full display. Will improve for decades. 93+/100.

Vignobles Reglat. All semillon. Yellow cast. Sweet honey, lemon curd, and pineapple. Delivers a full Cadillac moelleux statement. Flavors confirm, the honey turning to acacia. Great acid. Full sweetness. A bountiful sweet white Bordeaux for the money. Acid fairly coated in youth. No problem. 94+/100.

Semillon and muscadelle. The semillon macaroon basis, the muscadelle green fruit flair. Lightly sweet. First Bordeaux Moelleux I've tasted. The style used to be limited to the Bordeaux Superieur rank. Pleasing if modest compared to Sauternes. Mild acid. Likely mealtime apps here. Surely priceworthy. 91/100.

90% merlot, 10% cab sauv; clay, limestone, flint, and boulbene soils. Brian mistakenly chilled this (though I suggested a couple of weeks back that the 2020 could be served cool). So maybe no harm. Yes, this still works, though the cool temperature suppresses the fruit aroma somewhat. Juicy, fruity, and simply delicious at this temperature. Indeed, this works on the palate. Though it accents the tannin a little. Attendees called the 2020 a Beaujolais like Bordeaux. Apt description here too. 91/100.

Becoming very pretty. Pretty and cool malbec black cherry. Very pure. Certainly fully ripe. A lot of dash and flow. Yeah. 91/100. Weeks later, at Wine Club: Continues to impress. Rich and ripe for 14. Comes forth readily. For a 14 Cahors, plenty of give. 92/100.

On the causse calcaire plateau; 40 year old vines; all malbec; native yeasts; unfiltered. True black color. Firm but clearly pure and well concentrated Cahors malbec character. None of the pandering merlot component for early appeal. Deep and focused black and maraschino cherry notes. Again, it's clearly firm structured. And assuredly transparent. I've never had a Cahors remotely similar. I applaud both its classicism and originality. An honor to taste. 93+/100.

Est 1895; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; 25 year old vines. A strong vintage of this. Bright, up front black cherry malbec fruit. Material and tarry depth in support. All in harmony. Suave textured, short of glossy. Grip of fine tannin and good acidity. Burst of flavor at the finale. Yes, one of the best years here. 92/100.

Est. 1895; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; 25 year old vines. Fresh and bright in 2021 and at cellar temperature. This has a combination of roundness and cut. Shades of some barrel time too. High acid of the vintage. Again, cool service increases the tannin impact. Good flow nonetheless. 91+/100. Improved as it aired and warmed. Well liked by all the commentators. Deemed less modern than usual in 2021 thanks to less overt ripeness and to superior acidity. A supplier rep poured me a sample of this the following week. With more aeration and at a higher temperature, I got to appreciate it in the same context as attendees.

Est. 1830; from young vines on the second terrace above the Lot; all malbec. Also on the cool, reductive side, yet a completely different take given grape variety and AOC. Malbec black fruit. A lot of material on the palate. Fruit flavor, extract, and fine tannin. A lot of Cahors for the money. The group appreciated the value and current appeal. 91+/100.

85% malbec, 15% merlot; from the second terrace; unoaked. Less reductive due to what seems to spell some time in cooperage. More class. Black cherry and pitch assuaged by cask influence. A firmer, more tannic, more backward wine; really not much fun on the palate at this stage. The makings are there. Real Cahors for cellaring. The group agreed this was 'more-ish', and in need of cellaring. 92++/100.

85% malbec, 10% merlot; 5% tannat; from the second, third, and fourth terraces; aged a year in oak cooperage. Markedly heavier bottle. Wow, deep, dark, serious stuff. Complexity from barrel influence. Grand Vin. Big, classy, complex, enduring. Wow, one of the best Triguedina vintages I've tasted. The full, forward fruit of 2018 tempered by dry extract and fine tannin, as well as barrel stay. Purple grandeur. 95+/100.

5 soil types on the property; 80% malbec, 16% merlot, 4% tannat; aged 18 months in oak casks; 2013 just released. Black Wine of Cahors. Oh, and it's a tough guy too. Geez, after 7 plus years, still compact and stingy. The 2012 was much more accommodating last year,/ Well, there's some fruit sweetness on the palate, and an intriguing cedar streak. The tannins are manageable. Overall, quite an achievement this vintage. 91+/100.

Est. 1450; all malbec; 40-120 year old vines on the second and third terraces above the Lot. Black Cahors color. 2018 sweet and forward. This cuvee is designed to drink sooner than the other, more expensive Jouffreaus. This is at an ideal stage. The fruit remains sweetly expressive, and age is bringing on desirable maturity. Well balanced. Long. Flavorful. Attractive now, for sure. Will cellar mid term too. 92/100. Enjoyed for its typicity and drinkability.

Est. 1968 by Odile Delpon, three years before Cahors was awarded AOC; her son, Didier Pelvaillain, presently presides over the domaine; all malbec; 32 year old vines; native yeasts. It's deep, dense, Cahors forthright, and clear to the bottom of the glass. In the Cahors realm, its own thing. Sweet fruit elegance and flow. Nothing Black Wine about it. No resistance. Yet Cahors malbec through and through. 91/100.

All malbec; from the highest gravel-clay terraces above the Lot. Purple passion color. The freshest form of Cahors malbec you'll find, and the easiest going. Sweet-tart cherry taste. Doesn't seem carbonic, just fruit-juicy good. Cool vintage seems to enhance this Vigouroux cuvee's attractions. 91/100.

Est. 1887. Cahors stalwart Vigouroux's early drinking cuvee. Well, it's 2018 abundantly fruity and ready to fill the bill. Cherry pie nose, in spades. Yes, the palate is sweetly fruity and generous. Great acid balances the sweet fruit, keeps this wine from getting sloppy. Light tannin on the finish comes with the Cahors territory. Well crafted. 91+/100.

Second wine of Vigouroux's Chateau Mercures, on Cahors' third terrace; 85% malbec, 15% merlot. Gorgeous red violet color. Oh, that's a hefty, full fledged Cahors. And it's just the second wine! Wow, that is ripe and dark fruited and even smoky. Got to have this one. Deep and complicated. Broadening barrel input. Serious stuff. Even more intense black fruit on the palate. And power and extract. Wow wine. Great intro to Cahors. Great form, texture, flavor depth and range. Full, fine grained tannins. Fine acid, balance. So satisfying. Will improve. One panelist noted: 'Best Cahors I've tasted in perhaps a decade.' 93+/100.

Heavy Bottle Award. Blacker color. Ah, the oak adds up to a Grand Vin level of complexity, sophistication. The fruit is stouter too, keeping the oak in tow. Hugely impressive. Great fruit and oak flavor range. Harmonious. Flavor and texture depth and spread. The finest grained of tannins. Lasting aftertaste. Grand Vin indeed. The panel agreed that this deserves to be cellared further. 95+/100.

85% malbec, 15% merlot; aged a year in Alliers oak barrels; Wine Spectator Top 100: 'A minerally undertone gives depth to the raspberry reduction and red plum compote flavors of this concentrated, focused red, with infusions of floral, tea and herb on the plush finish. Drink now through 2024.'

Weighty Cahors malbec with some 2018 forward ideas. Flavorful. Abundant black cherry and tar malbec flavors, 2018 plush and yielding. Good acid. An attractive addition to the VC range. 92/100.

Est. 1861; 60% tannat, 20% each of the cabernets; vines 20-100 years old; aged in barrels, 30% to 50% new depending on the vintage; Wine Enthusiast 94/100. My notes: Classic young Madiran stiffness, if not as balky as the 2014 and 2016. Barrel aging has added complexity to the aromatic picture and a suggestion of suavity. Oh, that's a good kernel of Madiran black fruit expression. Positive degrees of acidity and fine grained tannins in 2017. Well balanced delivery. Not waspish, yet deserves cellaring for its bouquet potential. 94+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 91/100. My notes: All tannat. And the dark color spells it. Wow, that's a dark, sweet, and meaty tannat. Delivers concentration without accompanying toughness. Bravo. Again, the tannins are fine, non-aggressive. Amplitude and balance. Deal. 91/100.

Brocol grape variety. Unfined, unfiltered. Firmness and darkness of the vintage. Good fruit concentration. Great 14 acid, black fruit tenacity. My mouth is getting acid really right today, and it's illuminating. No tannin issues. Delicious wine with food, or can be cellared. 92/100.

Famille Beraut for 300 years; merlot, cabernet, tannat, syrah, malbec, pinot noir; vines averaging 30 years. Very sweet, round, and easy red fruit amalgam. Flashes of flair and depth. More dryness, acidity, and even astringency than the nose suggests. Renders it more 'serious' and mealworthy. Balanced finish. Deal. 91+/100.

50% colombard, 25% each ugni blanc, gros manseng. Leads with colombard green fruits, lime and melon. Ugni freshness and manseng richness then chime in. And the whole ends up greater than the sum of the parts. Bravo. Palate leads with gros manseng creamy richness. Nice reversal--very entertaining. Then the colombard green stuff. Suave and well balanced set of flavors and acid/sweet harmony. Lasting finish. Up to snuff. One of the better vintages of a strong series. 92/100. As always, enjoyed by attendees.

Olivier Gessler, vigneron at Panjas; 50% colombard, 30% ugni blanc, 15% gros manseng, 5% sauvignon blanc. Clean and crisp, with green colombard and ugni leading the way. Sense of manseng plumpness behind. Palate more aromatic, the manseng and sauvignon throwing in more support. Deliciously well balanced. Both cut and light padding. Better than the 2020. Better acid. 91/100.

Half each sauvignon blanc, colombard.; was Pays d'Oc in 2022; now back to Gascogne. Oh, yes, this varietal pair fits together just right in Mont Gravet's recent whites. Used to be all colombard, which was nice to see for its own sake. Still, sauvignon adds aromatic spiel without suppressing colombard's contributions, surprisingly. Masterful craftsmanship. So the two go tandem down the palate trail. Honestly, perhaps the most expressive vintage to date. Love the balance, love the generosity, love the price. 92/100.

Famille Beraut for 300 years; ugni blanc, colombard, gros manseng, petit manseng, folle blanche, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay. This is always so wild an aromatic spread in the realm of Gascogne blancs. The complex encepagement is the secret formula. Diverse varietal aromatics all over the place. Yet in sympathy with one another. Geez, this is total entertainment!/ The flavor range is equally broad. And the presentation is well balanced. For instance, the cut of colombard versus the plumpness of the mansengs. Kudos! 92/100. Popular with attendees. The sauvignon blanc contributed a grapefruit aroma. 'Good flavor, nice balance.' 'Refreshing, appealing.'

Owned by the Beraut family for 300 yrs; 80% gros manseng, 10% each chardonnay, petit manseng. Oh, what an inspiring nose! Ever peachy mansengs to the fore, with the ultimate apricot lift of the petit. Chardonnay adds a yellow delicious apple note. So gently sweet and so brightly elevated. The flavors, which add in mango and green tea, last forever, and spread out across the palate. Always worth a detour. 94+/100.

Famille Duffour. Est. 1955. 80% colombard, 20% gros manseng. Tangy, limey colombard green fruit. Soft padding of gros manseng in support. Very vigorous lime flavor and crisp acidity. Yes, the softer lemon chiffon of gros manseng is a wonderful and complexing complement. Best vintage of this I've tasted. Great concept and execution. 92/100. Enjoyed by attendees. Colombard grass and lime noted. 'Good clean acidity; fresh and easy.'

Gros manseng and sauvignon blanc. Subtle soft peachy scent of gros manseng countered by sauvignon citrus cut. Well assembled encepagement as usual. Again, plush meets tangy. Some baby fat to lose. The acid is still coated and the flavors unfulfilled. I have confidence..as well as case buyers of this. 91+/100. Enjoyed by attendees. 'Quite pleasant!' 'Peach tea.' 'Lovely fruit; easy drinking.'

60% gros manseng, 40% petit manseng on a rare band of Triassic limestone; native yeasts; aged 6 months in seasoned barrels. Dense, mineral saturated nose. Terroir dominates what are usually pretty aromatic varieties. That carries over to the palate. Jawbreaker extract. If you're looking for fruit, look elsewhere. This is all about grip, texture. I'm thinking oysters. The wine itself is almost briny. 92/100. List price: $36.

Combo of fruity and vinous. Juicy purple berries: loganberry, boysenberry. Medium bodied. Attractive flow. Mild tannin. Good acid. Flavorful. An intriguing sleeper. Would like to know more about its background. 90/100.

This is more involved than simply vinous, but I can't put a finger on the varietal makeup. It's not fruity or floral. There's a creamy aspect. Yes, creamy fruit something. Entirely pleasing, and like nothing else. 90/100.

80% grolleau, 20% cab franc. Dark purple. The freshness and coolness of the vintage and grolleau (nobody spells it groslot any more--can't imagine why). Proper if understated aroma set. Yes, cool and tart. The silkiest of tannins. Bit astringent at the finale. Begs for food. Sauteed chicken livers? 91+/100.

Muscadet winemaker; Loire pinot noir and gamay. Spot on combo revealing of both varieties. Pinot soft, velvety fullness. Gamay bright, vigorous race. In harmony. Most forthcoming. Yes, both the soft pinot padding and the gamay lift. Balance of ripe fruit and fruit acidity. Long and delicious aftertaste. Fine craftsmanship. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees as a summer red.

Tasting Panel 93: 'Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme converge on the nose. Complex and seamless flavors of fresh strawberry and wildflowers with a touch of cranberry compote are a prelude to a kiss of lingering bitterness. Expressive yet refined, this would easily complement a hearty meal. $16.'

2018: His best vintage of this, thanks to the ripe, fruit forward nature of 2018. It's northern grown fresh and without a trace of greenness. Yes, amazingly ripe and fruity, without compromising its high latitude coolness and great acidity. Take it right to the table. 91/100.

Est. 1890; family estate at St. Aubin de Luigne; from green and black slate soils on either side of the Layon. Nice and sweet smelling Anjou take on cabernet franc. No ripeness issues here in cool 2021. Equally sweet and smooth on the palate. Underlying 2021 acidity comes forth as a sip rolls over the tongue. Bargain priced for the levels of quality and authenticity. 91/100.

55 year old cabernet franc vines; aged in amphorae. Hearty red violet color. Freshness of Loire cab franc, sweet ripeness of the vintage, as well as its substance. Confident, comfortable poise. Body, acid, tannin, and ageworthiness well beyond the more approachable 2018. This is 2020. Old vines concentration. All makes sense. All requests another year or two in the cellar. 92+/100. 'Really good and typical; just what it should be.' 'Dark, ripe cherry and raspberry; excellent cabernet franc; meaty, beefy; red wine of the night.'

25-30 year old vines, 80% cab franc, 20% cab sauv. Unfiltered. Deep and dark cabernet set tells the tale. Sits just right. Yes, at one northern cool and cabernet rich. One concentrated Anjou rouge. Yet there's Loire rouge elegance too. Good acid/sweet balance. Did I say it sits just right? 92/100.

31 year old vines in silty sand over limestone. Oh, boy, is this big, generous, and forthcoming this vintage. Ripe and concentrated Loire cab franc red raspberry. No greenery. Yes, luxuriously padded and smooth on the palate. No shortage of acid for balance. Flavorful finish goes on and one. This one's ready to take to the table. 92/100. Wine of the Night for many attendees. Orders taken.

Cooperative est. 1957 by 40 winegrowers. Brisk, cool, and fresh Loire cab franc. Spot on. Nose develops surprising ripeness and roundness for a cool vintage. Good 2021 acidity of course. Not tart though. Like the nose, the palate spells a handsome degree of ripeness. All is right with this Saumur rouge. 91/100. Widely liked by attendees for good ripeness, lack of vegetal aspects, present drinkability, and, especially, price.

Sand and gravel soils. Very dark red violet--exceptional. And the nose is fully as concentrated as the color. Full fledged, fully intense Loire cab franc at no doubt a bargain price. Wow. Rich red raspberry flavor. Plenty of extract and a degree of fine tannin to resolve. Still, the flavor pours through. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 92+/100,

Est. 1822; vines planted from 1967-1980; on sand and clay. Oh, boy, is that one super fresh and fruity cab franc, just as the maker intended. About the best and most expressive vintage of this I've nosed. Full 2021 acidity. At opening, the tartest of these I've tasted. Apply accordingly at the table. 91/100. High marks from attendees for varietal expression and immediacy. No mention of the tartness I found, as this rounded out with aeration.

2021: From gravel and sand soils at Cravant les Coteaux on the Vienne; planted between 1985 and 1988. Fresh and crisp 2021 and cuvee style. This is from the lightest soil strata and made to be enjoyed early. Sure plays the role on the nose. Good sweetness to the fruit too. Good 2021 acid, while the fruit is admirably ripe, not green. Suave and inviting. No tannin. Could serve cool. 91/100.

80% grown in calcareous soil, 20% in gravel. Man, sweet as a nut. I mean it even smells nutty, like trail mix. Palate very dry and tannic though. About the most tannic Chinon I've tasted. Full acid too. And power and sweetness. Cellar it. 91+/100.

Despite the variety of ages and origins, these are all dark maroon in color. One of the fullest vintages of this cuvee I've nosed. Impressive. Sports gravel borne elegance too. Yes, impressive body, dry extract, flavor and texture intensity. Must add to the Chinon range. 92+/100.

New label; no longer Domaine Dozon; vigneron remains Eric Santier, who purchased Saut au Loup from Laure Dozon in 2014; 40-60 year old vines on the Left Bank of the Vienne. Full purple color. Large and sweet for 2021 but not for Saut au Loup. Wow, those has breadth and depth and plenty of oomph. Palate confirms its generosity. Good vintage acidity. Barest trace of tannin. An overachiever in 2021. 93/100. Attendees were as impressed with this one as I.

2017: Vineyard on clay and limestone. Rather close and tart to start, but true to its cherry-suggestive name. Nose sweetens up with aeration. Dry and tannic on entry. Fruit character and padding come on. Good ager. 91+/100.

On clay-limestone in southwest Chinon, bordering Saumur Champigny. Wow, that's a full and pungent Chinon cab franc! Red raspberry, bramble, and leafy pepperiness. The palate is equally full and expressive. Well textured. Tannin level requests more bottle age. It will be rewarded. 93+/100.

Est. 1976; historic cellars beneath the fortress of Chinon; 35 year old vines on gravel. Fresh, sweet, heart on sleeve 2022 style. Good and brisk Loire cab franc background. Flavorful, brisk, well balanced. Long finish. In tune. 91/100.

From sand and gravel soils at Savigny en Veron; 35 year old vines. Oh, that's a warm and rich one. With a lot of red raspberry cab franc character besides. Inviting. Cool to the taste. The modest alcohol is appreciated. Plenty of flavor. There is a little tannin and astringency yet, so the palate is not quite as ready to rumble as the nose. Lasting finish. A group favorite. 93+/100.

Est. 1693; from sandy alluvial soil near the Vienne. Bright red violet. Fresh and cool. Reserved. Core of ripe fruit sweetness. Good 2021 acidity. Plenty of material; good grip. Flavors coming on now. Balanced and mealworthy. Age a few more weeks to months for additional aromatic range and depth. 91+/100. Or hours. Many attendee positive comments on its varietal character two hours later, such as 'screams cab franc', 'classic cab franc'. and 'lovely, long cab franc finish'. Attendees found both fruit ripeness and vintage acidity, in harmony.

4th generation estate; 30 year old vines; 8 days' carbonic maceration. Loire gamay lift and levity. Spot on cherry-raspberry aromas and mild alcohol welcome greeting. Surprisingly well structured and filled for region and vintage. Light tannin adds texture. Plenty of flavor. In tune with the series and boasting superior 2021 acidity. 91/100. The sleeper of the set. Wine of the Night for several; universally enjoyed.

35% each gamay, cot (malbec), 30% pinot noir; on flint (silex); native yeasts. Third vintage we've had of this and the freshest yet. Gamay lift combines with dark malbec underlayment and pinot's soft and sweet notes. A very refreshing measure of acidity often found in Valencay but not always in 2022. Varietal feels and flavors meld together well. Light dusting of tannin at the end. 91+/100. Attendee remarks and enthusiasm generally paralleled mine. One reviewer got a tobacco note on the finish. The remains were enjoyed later with grilled salmon.

35% each gamay, cot (malbec), 30% pinot noir; on flint (silex); native yeasts. Cooler and racier even than the 2020. Goes with the vintage territory. Lots of lift, flair, aromatic nuance. Blueberry and blackberry. Mixed peppercorns. Yow, excitement!/ Less flavor than aroma range. A little tight laced in youth still. High 2021 acidity is nicely coated. This should air well. 92/100. And it did. Attendees judged it ready to drink following aeration.

Deep, dark, and intense with 2015 ripeness and concentration. Yes, really meaty for Loire pinot noir. Thanks to the vintage. Even some tannin. 91+/100.

Its own thing, and I think a lot of that has to do with barrel aging. Most Sancerre rouge I see is first year, at most two or three years old. And not barrel aged. Decidedly more revealing than previous vintages tasted, some of them bearish by nature. Very cedary-spicy. Full bodied and textured. Clearly barrel influenced. A very, very exciting take. We can sell a lot of this. Brian is crazy about it. 93+/100.

Daulny has 40 acres in 50 parcels, including some of the AOC's top sites, such as Monts Damnes; vines average 40 years. Medium red; correct. Richer than it looks thanks to 2022's good ripening conditions. It still emphasizes northern grown pinot freshness and lift. Without tartness and herbaceousness. Come hither. Plenty of tangy acid, especially for the vintage. Even a suggestion of positive VA. Many table apps. 92/100. Attendees liked this one; orders taken. 'Classic cool climate pinot without greenness. Herbs play second fiddle to the fruit.'

At Pougny, Hameau de Montbenoit; 80% pinot noir, 20% gamay; 30 year old vines on silex, limestone, and clay; native yeasts; AOC since 1998. Pretty youthful appearance at age four. Maintains a freshness and vitality in this upper Loire take on Passetoutgrains. Total harmony, confidence, and comfort at this stage. Round and soft pinot, with gamay vigor adding vitality. Another splendidly crafted Mary Taylor wine selection. 91/100.

Muscadet winemaker; Loire sauvignon blanc and melon. Smells mainly of melon (muscadet), which is surprising, since sauvignon has a much more forceful aromatic profile. It's there, admirably subtle as well as supportive. A bit more sauvignon to the fore on the palate, but it doesn't steal the scene. Richness and softness of the vintage. This guy is quite the winemaker. 91/100.

At Monnieres in the Loire Atlantique department near the mouth of the river. Nice and appley lower Loire take on chardonnay, unoaked of course. One of the fruitiest and best in the series. 23 balance of fruit richness and acidity. And 23 flavorful. Plenty of follow through in all respects. 91/100.

4 generation estate; gneiss and granite subsoil; 15-35 year old vines; 7 months on lees with regular stirring. Crisp and jaunty 2021 take on Auriere. Always the classic styling that makes it one of the best values in its field--or in the entire dry white wine field for that matter. Great texture really balloons it up on the palate. The flavors buoy it up too. Vintage and appellation acidity and the always tender core of the variety. Classic. 91/100. Attendees were excited about this one. Auriere is a perennial group favorite and best buy.

Vines over 30 years old; 7 months on lees. Lovely nose, varietal and pure. Forthcoming, reasonably full. And proper for the appellation, while making its own statement. Racy fruit acidity. Good flavor intensity and a long finish. More to come. Well liked by the group. 92+/100.

Est. 1915; average vine age: 37 years. A good and mossy Muscadet. Yeah, I love that terrarium bent to its aroma profile. Only found in Muscadet. Yes, green stuff like nowhere else. Great acid this vintage; well exceeds the norm and is so refreshing and ready for a mound of fresh oysters. The Gras Moutons series continues to excel. 92/100. Others too praised the exceptional level of acidity, a mark of so many 2021 Euro dry whites.

35 year old vines on green gneiss over clay; aged 6 months on lees in concrete cisterns. Full of mossy greenery, damp forest floor. Ideal. Full feel and flavor in harmony with nose. Good acid and a tender muscadet core. Classic. Very popular with the group. Orders taken. 91+/100.

Est. 1740; 'birthplace' of Muscadet. Still fresh and vital, of course. Muscadet always is. However, in something of an aromatic trough, I suspect, though this is the first muscadet I've tasted from this domaine. Texturally balanced and satisfying. Just not a lot of flavor interest, even by muscadet standards. Certainly meal worthy, versatile at the table. 91/100. Following aeration, this became more revealing. 'Fresh and even a bit spicy; good fun' notes one commentator.

11.5%; 4th generation; domaine bottling since 2005; lieu dit La Butte; on serpentine and quartz; 50 year old vines. A screwcap free evening! Wow, that soars with cool, green and yellow fruit aromatics. Comes right at ya. Oodles of personality. The extra body and fruit push of a Grandlieu Muscadet. Aromatic breadth and depth. Spot on. Mouthfilling flavor and texture. Better acidity than it showed a couple of months back. Well balanced. Welcome clinging finish. 93/100.

11.5%; granite parcel at La Butte; 20-60 year old vines. Not as buxom and forthcoming. More minerally. Nice tete a tete. A little bigger boost of acidity, and that minerality adding to the texture and dryness. More of a keeper. 92+/100.

70 acre, 5 generation family estate of 70 acres at Monnieres on slopes above the Sevre. Here my young to old order fails; this wine is buried by the previous two. True to AOC; still, understated upon opening. More character to the palate. More flavor. And a lovely textural aspect and ideal sweet/acid balance not always achieved in 2022. People pleasing and very versatile at the table. Classic small green botanicals on the finish. Deal! 91/100. Much liked. Aired well. 'Standup Muscadet; the real deal; really pleasant.' 'Bargain City.'

2019: Raphael Luneau, 9th generation. That's alert, alive and brimful of fruit. Just surges forth in an eager to please manner. Full and round on the palate. Some peels astringency and a metallic ring on the finish. A singular Muscadet. 92/100.

On sand over granite; 'hommee' is an 18th century term for the acreage a vineyard worker could cover in a day; from a particular parcel on the Chauviniere estate. Well, this is bigger and more ageworthy. Special terroir indeed. Close to the extra presence of a cru Muscadet. Yes. Oh, and even closer to cru in the mouth. Weight, flavor, texture all in spades. Well balanced too. As much as I like the above, this is worth the moderate premium.92+/100. Attendees agreed. 'Even better in all regards. This is good or better than any I've had.' Case orders taken

A very fresh, clear vision of muscadet with growing aromatics as it warms. Cool green streak through it and some of the notions of tenderness of the vintage. Good mineral cling on entry. Green acidity, that vintage padding. This is real entertainment, as well as a refreshing quaff. 91/100. Continued to gain in aromatic interest as it aired.

12 acres at Le Loroux-Bottereau on amphibolite, metagabbro, and serpentinite soils; 20 year old vines; native yeasts; aged 8-12 months on lees in cisterns, lees stirred 2-3 times. Whoa, is that ever a stony expression! Wet stones all the way. Plus the little green botanicals classic to Muscadet. And ventilating hyssop overtones. 2022 softness up front encounters correct acidity for balance as it flows across the tongue. Great transparency to this, as to all the Mary Taylor directed cuvees. 92/100.

Vignoble Ollivier-Cottenceau; 19th century roots; vineyards on sandy gravel over granite and schist; vines 25-60 years old. New label and hyphenated owner name. Marriage? Consistent style popular with Wed group members for years. A little softer than usual in 2022. Cool and racy palate. More acid than nose suggests. Well balanced, easy flowing. What Muscadets in this price range are all about; value and appeal. 91/100. Indeed, popular with attendees. 'Mineral, granite, green pear; admirable concentration, even viscosity.'

Cooperative of only 10 member families, all within Le Pallet, one of the AOC's seven Crus. Boy, that is one fruity muscadet, especially considering the cold vintage. Oh, it's plenty crisp too. Just intensely aromatic of muscadet's green stuff. Flavorful too, if less exuberant. A nice salty tang to it. Big time entertainment for the price. 92/100. Attendees agreed this had an unusually assertive muscadet aroma profile. For the best. Orders taken.

More reserved than usual. Pure and high pitched green fruit. Relatively restrained. The usual good minerality here. And good acid, extract, dryness. It had more to say aromatically by the time the group tasted it. Well liked. 91+/100.

10 acre hillside site on granite above the Maine; oldest vines of the estate, 50-70 years old; aged eight months sur lie in cisterns. Boy, that's a deep seated, classic, mossy Muscadet nose. Old vines intensity. Full and round in the mouth too, and exceptionally flavorful. Say, this is really worth the premium price. Balanced, nicely textured, and very long lasting. 93/100. Wine of the Night for most attendees. 'The best I have had in years.'

At Vertou, overlooking the Sevre; unfined, unfiltered. Nose a bit slight at opening. Good and classic background to the flavor profile. This seems to be coming on as it warms up. I don't want to sell it short. Take it away, attendees. After a couple hours' aeration, this really came out of its shell and was very popular with attendees. 'Screams Muscadet; real terroir; lots of wine; real value.' 'Full, rich old vines fruit and grip; terroir.' 91+/100.

Yves Bretonniere, 4th generation vigneron; versants = hillsides; on schist; average 30 year old vines; oldest 70 years; all selection massale. Native yeasts. Aged on lees through winter. I taste the dry whites after the reds to give them time to warm up, so this is quite some relief after a heavy New World syrah. Rather low key if accurate nose. More flavor. Yellow fruit joins green. And really perks up as it warms in the mouth. Not so low key after all. Classic Muscadet flavors and textures with sur lie augmentations. Highly drinkable. 91/100. Attendees agreed.

Est. 1820; chenin blanc; sandy-clay soil. We had this last April soon after it arrived, and it wasn't yet ready for prime time. Much more fulfilled now. Anjou chenin pear, quince, and lime. The feels and flavors have really filled out. The softer acidity of 22 vs 21 gives a lusher sensation. Still, plenty refreshing and well balanced. In fact, delicious. 92/100.

Sourced from vineyards that fall exactly along the border of the two sub-regions of Anjou. Fourth-generation winemaker Pascal Biotteau comes from the village of Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets, situated on the old Roman road from Angers to Poitiers. The western zone lies on limestone, the eastern on dark volcanic schist. Combines the freshness of the former with the fullness of the latter. Ripe melon and suggestions of honey and apricot. Dry, with good acidity for this mild vintage. Quince and lime chime in on the finish. 91/100.

Chenin blancs averaging 35 years; named for the vineyard site on the property. Sulphur suppresses some of its aromatic attributes upon opening. Underlying quince and mineral qualities. Great 2021 acid and an attractive degree of both fruit ripeness and extract filling and balancing it out. Yes, flavorful and lengthy. The palate spells greatness. The nose wants air and age for fulfillment. 92+/100.

From the estate's Clos Saint Yves vineyard, situated between Clos du Papillon and Roche aux Moines. 35 year old vines; aged 9 months on lees. Honied nose, as well it should be. Ripe quince, acacia, and schist terroir too. The size, the sprawl, the complexity of a chenin from Savennieres. Very large in the mouth. Full of dry extract. About as big as dry chenin blanc gets. Awesome presence. Yes, lots of flavor and texture interests here. Carries good form too. And minerality. This is no heart on sleeve 2018. At least a couple of years from its best, I'd venture. Long, detailed aftertaste with textural cling, burnish. 94+/100.

Est. 1996; single vineyard; 40 year old vines on clay and limestone. Plenty of quince and lime Saumur chenin personality. Combo of richness and briskness. What I'm looking for here. Plusher than the laser-like 2021 of course. Still, the acidity is not the least bit wanting, and the rich varietal and terroir feels and flavors offer extra amplitude. A balanced and delicious vintage of this. 92/100. Later, at the tasting, it showed more terroir than fruit at first. The fruit emerged with further aeration, earning it attendee compliments for its overall presentation.

Chenin blanc vineyard on southwest facing slopes near the village of Meron. Lovely, soft, forward 22 chenin nose makes all the sense in the world. Melon, lime, quince. Round and tart at once. Balanced. Flavors confirm aromas if less intense. One of the better vintages of this old reliable. 91/100. Appreciated for both its varietal accuracy and bargain price.

From slopes along the Loir tributary of the Loire. Chenin blanc. Smells like Loire chenin. Quince, lime, melon. Good acid. OK flavor intensity. Talks the talk. 91/100.

Small AOC (160 acres) on the Loir tributary of the Loire, northernmost and coolest of the Loire basin; this parcel on flint soil (silex); 35-40 year old vines. Man, that's about as racy as chenin blanc gets. Sure sign of this terroir. Brisk and bracing nose. A measure of 2023 tenderness to the palate. I expected higher acidity from the nose. Maybe it's just coated in youth. Unique flavor set for chenin. Not the usual quince-melon-lime. Pleases all the same. 92/100. Popular with attendees. 'Very dry. Fruit comes out later.' 'Softer than some, but great extract, decent acid, bit of astringent notes.' 'Citrus and melon nose. Full palate. Unique flavors and fine persistence. Touches of honey and herb tones. Well balanced.'

30-60 year old vines; indigenous yeasts. Quieter, as expected. I put it in this order expecting a little sweetness. Nose is dry. Quince and lime well up as it warms in the mouth. It's pretty damn near dry. There's a forgiving softness to it. Good acid. Good extract. Versatile at the table. Good vintage of this. Bound to give more as it warms and airs. And it did; though the group too noted that it will yield even more as the months pass. 92+/100.

On clay and limestone; vines 15-20 yrs old; yield under two tons per acre. Sweet and youthful. Quince, apple, lime. No botrytis suggestions. Good nasal presence. Sweet and youthful on the palate too. The acid is adequate for developmental purposes, if sugar coated for now. All its future is ahead of it (Yogi-ism). Great price for a moelleux. 91+/100.

Est. 1984; 35 year old vines on clay and limestone; indigenous yeasts; aged 11 months on lees; labeled Sec for the first time. They keep getting drier year after year, and now it's spelled out. While dry smelling, upon opening this is premature due to youth or shipping. Suggestions of quince, lime, and green melon.merely hints at this stage. Has it all together though. And at this stage, the acid is somewhat coated and the flavor spectrum and intensity limited. The long and balanced aftertaste presages a fine vintage of this. 92+/100. This opened up more with aeration. 'Really rich and glycerined; doesn't seem too young.' 'Crisp and clean; balanced.' 'Mighty approachable.'

45 year old vines; aged on lees 11 months; 2% RS. The RS is clear by the nose. The aromas are subtle and may be coated. Yeah, this is the sweet, silent type at this stage. Acid coated too. Earlier vintages were more expressive. Perhaps they were tasted when more along. I have faith. 91+100. General agreement that this needs more bottle age, and, with that in mind, appreciated by attendees for its quality and potential.

Dry, dusty nose. Quince to the fore. Promising nasal texture play. The palate is equally dry, chalky. Calcaire talking. Lime joins quince. Quite the fine cooperative effort. Got to have it. 92/100.

The cool vintage does this justice. One of the most aromatic, characterful, and delightful vintages of this in years. Yes, the delicious, sprightly acidity of 2021 makes the driest impression yet. Quince and lime Vouvray ID. Must have. 92/100.

Est. 1927; vines average 25 years; 4.5 g/l (dry). At opening, I don't get an expression of much of anything. Then some quince and chalk suggestions form. Pretty quiet on the palate too. Dry to near dry (sec tendre). Good acid of the vintage. And good form. Juicy finish. Just aromatically understated. A well respected source. Let's see if it has more to say in a couple of hours. 91+/100. Opened up well to earn popularity. Excellent extract comparable to a Champalou.

Tuffeau, clay, and flint soils; 30-40 year old vines; previous vintages Domaine Vigneau-Cheveau; probably had to purchase some neighbors' grapes in short-crop 2021. Good quince and melon nose of chenin. No signs of botrytis in a sec rendition in a cold vintage. Well, the acid is great of course. And not only that, there's lots of extract adding texture. This is certainly a fine dinner Vouvray. I'm thinking quenelles de brochet. 92/100. This sleeper turned into a group favorite. Orders taken.

85% sauvignon blanc, 15% chardonnay. Loaded with pink grapefruit. lime, and passion fruit aromatics. Chardonnay adds more of a textural filler aspect. Again, sauvignon citrus and soft tropics dominate the flavor. Nice and tangy fruit acidity. Yes, chardonnay fills out the mouthfeel. Long, flavorful finish. Well crafted cuvee. Enjoy it now and throughout the warm months. 92/100. Very popular with attendees, who agreed it would make a 'great summer wine'.

Tasting Panel 92: 'White florals meet fresh Provencal herbs with a hint of grass on the nose before elegant and lithe flavors of apricot, fresh peach, and melon capere nimbly on the palate. This wine is a paragon of delicate freshness with no shortage of personality. $16.'

Bright and legit sauvignon character, still youthfully constrained. More varietal character on the palate, and really good fruit acidity. Opens up on the palate. Good price. 90/100.

At Monnieres, Loire-Atlantique departement. Very fresh, lithe, and cool lower Loire style of sauvignon. One of the best of the series. I sense this will be very workable at the table. 2023 fruit sweetness and the continuing light handed take on the varietal. Virtually quaffable, so a good aperitif as well as dinner wine. 91/100. Popular with attendees. 'Breathes well; opens to a nice, elegant sauvignon palate with long finish.'

OMG, is that intense and incisive to smell! Gooseberry, grapefruit, passion fruit, cat pee, green herbs. All over again. Great acid and that special, countering ripeness that is an amalgam of 2021 and 2022. Super. 93/100.

From 22 year old vines along the Cher tributary of the Loire 70 miles west of Sancerre. Ripe citrus fruits of 2022. Like many of the other Cher area sauvignons, there's a greater measure of soft tropical fruits than in most sauvignons farther up the Loire. Greater citricity on the palate. Downright refreshing for 2022. Well balanced, flavorful, and thoroughly enjoyable at the moment. 91/100. Attendees enjoyed this, agreeing with my assessment.

Cooperative of 20 winegrowers founded in 1957 at St. Romain sur Cher. Crisp Touraine sauvignon coming forth with aeration. Wow, burst of clear sauvignon citrus and soft tropical fruits flavors. The roundest and most forthcoming in the series. On the palate, this is a Touraine sauvignon 'fruit bomb' at a steal of a price. 91/100.

On the east bank of the Cher near Chateau de Chenonceau. Pointed and piercing passion fruit aroma. And flavor. Unique and attractive sauvignon take. 92/100. Liked by all attendees. 'Very sauvignon; aggressive, and long.'

2015: Gooseberry; bright, crisp, citrusy. Extremely tart, almost severe. The acid is almost too high for this acid freak. But, wow.. lively, vigorous, racy, zingy, tangy, present, persistent. 92/100.

Slightly brassy - surprise. Some sauvignon gris present-/ Pungent, penetrating gooseberry and Med herb. Unique. Exceeds mere citrus. This is wild. 92/100.

4th generation estate on the south bank of the Cher. A good splash of sauvignon citrus, though less incisive than the high acid 2021. Soft tropical fruits emerge with warming and aeration. Again, a good sauvignon wash of citrus and its accompanying acidity. Likely to have wider appeal and usefulness that the 2021, which hurt so good. Another winner in the series. 91/100. Enjoyed by attendees, who noted the vintage's richness, smoothness. Said to improve into the next day.

From chalky, flinty soils along the Cher. Also low key and accurate. (These samples are still pretty cold.) Keen edge of a Cher sauvignon. More richness in the mouth. Subtle citrus notes and fine acidity. This will please and prove versatile in both aperitif and mealtime roles for its balance and lack of sauvignon aggressiveness. A VERY useful sauvignon. Long finish, where light stone and soft tropic fruits add to the flavor range. 92/100. White Wine of the Night for most attendees.

Est. 1995; cellar at Bue; 23 parcels in Sancerre and Quincy; chalky limestone, sandy loam, gravelly loam. Well, that's a unique and intriguing sauvignon blanc from its alleged birthplace. It's slightly richer and rounder than Portier's Quincy and certainly distinct from those of other Loire Region de Sauvignon AOCs. More orange than yellow or green peeled citrus. Gooseberry too. Yes, this is softer on the approach than Portier's, while portraying plenty of 2021 acid race. Come hither. Its own thing. 92/100. Well liked by attendees.

Domaine Jean-Michel Sorbe, acquired by Mellot in 1999; west of Sancerre; cradle of sauvignon blanc. That's Quincy! It's not as splashy and variegated as Sancerre, or even Menetou. Just straight on cool, limey sauvignon. 2022 adds an agreeable softness to Quincy's usually stark nature. Doesn't detract from the classic flavor profile and refreshing, food worthy nature. We're fortunate to have a bevy of attractive Quincys in the market at present. Especially in light of soaring Sancerre prices. 92/100.

Est. 1991; on limestone, gravel, sand. Oh, boy is that stony and racy. A picture of Quincy and a model contrast to Sancerre of any terroir. Perhaps slightly softer than the 2021. I'm splitting hairs. Well, the palate is clearly softer than the previous vintage, as goes with the territory. I'm not complaining. It's well enough balanced, and, with the superior fruit ripeness, comes a broader flavor spectrum. 92/100. Attendees were keen on this. 'Pretty, stylish, very likeable.'

Winegrowers since the 17th century; based in Menetou-Salon, with 60 acres there and in Sancerre and Pouilly Fume; Kimmeridgian limestone; aged 6 months on lees. Unique Menetou take on sauvignon blanc. Not as shrill as Quincy, not as rich as Pouilly Fume, and more minerally than Sancerre. Sits just right. The AOC is so clear and cool in its green citrus character. Well balanced; just the right level of acidity. 16.8. 'Lovely minerality! Long lemony finish.'

On limestone and clay soils. This cold sample is subtly aromatic. The form is correct. Needs more warmth to coax its essences forth. Again, love the form, the textural assets, the acid, the balance. I'm just looking for more aroma/flavor. I expect that will come. 91+/100. And, to an extent, it did. Attendees commented as follows. 'Shy, subtle, lightly peachy.' 'Ripe, extracted palate.' Nice, balanced flavors.'

At Sury en Vaux; 50% clay-limestone, 30% stony limestone, 20% flint; vines average 25 yeas/ Some sulphur suppression at opening. Pinches off the flavor too. Decent acid for 2022. Air and age. Aired well, so attendee ratings went up. The aromatics remained subtle. Growing senses of structure and minerality noted. 91+/100.

2019: 10th generation; at Chavignol. Very stony. Wet stones nose. Runs deep and secretive. Brisk citrus hovers. Brisk indeed. Citrus and soft tropical fruits. Ringing acidity. Good body. Lasting, balanced finish. A group favorite. 93/100.

2020: This sizzles! Vibrant, alive, penetrating, persistent citrus and herb melange. The palate too is alive with flavor and acid tingle. Very long finish. And the price hasn't gone through the roof like a lot of Sancerres. Must have arrived after the tariff was lifted. I'm completely taken with this. 93/100.

At Reigny-Crezancy. Riper. Stronger than the other Sancerres in the set. Into a lightly peachy thing like a Pouilly Fume. Yes, riper and rounder. Almost red fruited. Well balanced. This will wax even larger for many months to come. 92+/100.

Generations old estate at Bue. That's more pungent and penetrating from the get go. Elegance and intricacy that mark this domaine's wines year after year. Perfect pitch. Yes, spot on fragrance, form, figure. Nothing askew; it all hangs together so well both flavor and texture wise. A pattern of BALANCE. More aromatic amplitude to come. 93+/100. One of the favorites. 'Classic, mineral driven, right on.' 'This is really good, well made, very long finish, spot on.'

2022: Generations old estate at Bue; one of the village's top sites. Speaks minerality and class if not a lot of sauvignon flair at opening and cold temperature. But, then, Grand Chemarins are not gushy sauvignons. It's the noble terroir thing, so I'm pleased with the presentation from the get go. Nice and snappy fruit acidity and grippy, textured, well extracted site expression. Wow, this just grows and grows as it airs and warm. In the scheme of things, bargain priced for a 'cru'. 94+/100. Super popular. Wine of the Night. 'Much richer and finer than the good regular cuvee.'

Generations old estate at Bue; one of the village's top sites. Speaks minerality and class if not a lot of sauvignon flair at opening and cold temperature. But, then, Grand Chemarins are not gushy sauvignons. It's the noble terroir thing, so I'm pleased with the presentation from the get go. Nice and snappy fruit acidity and grippy, textured, well extracted site expression. Wow, this just grows and grows as it airs and warm. In the scheme of things, bargain priced for a 'cru'. 94+/100. Super popular. Wine of the Night. 'Much richer and finer than the good regular cuvee.'

15 hectares over 50 plots; 40 year old vines; from a diversity of AOC soil types; small percentage aged in seasoned cooperage. Still a bit edgy. Young and just shipped. Got the makings. Combo of the crispness of 2021 and richness of 2022. Yeah, it hasn't declared itself fully yet. Daulny stylish. Will make the scene in a couple more months. 92+/100. Or hours. Well liked by attendees; orders taken. 'Gooseberry. Crisp and clean as rain water. Textbook.' 'Good as ever. Elegance of the house. The real deal.'

From selected parcels on south facing slopes in Verdigny. Line extension, or replaces the Clos de Chaudenay? Wow, it certainly is 'reserve' extra concentrated in aroma and body. Yikes. Old vines not mentioned but strongly suggested by the nose, which just grows and grows in aromatic intensity as it warms and airs. Full and flavorful. Bright citrus relief to its full body. Delicious balance, savor, length. New star for this estate. 94/100. 'Reserve quality, concentration, extract, minerality.' 'Nice acid, rich flavor.'

Hints of gunflint, silex, grapefruit. Pleasing enough, and 2022 round and fruity. More flavor coming forth as it warms in the mouth. Yes, perfectly pleasant, well balanced, and ready to drink. Some plumpness but a solid acidity too. Well enough priced these days. 91/100.

Three generation family estate at Crezancy. While still very cold, this shows keen pungency through it all. And decided calcaire. Wow, I'm thinking this will really impress as it warms up. That 2023 combo of 22 richness and 21 cut. Well proportioned. Quite unlike any other Sancerre on the block. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 92+/100. Indeed, this showed a wider range of aromatics following aeration, including grapefruit. Deemed ready to drink now.

At Bois l'Abbaye - Bue; 35-40 year old vines on the slopes Grand Chemarin, Petit Chemarin, Chene Marchand. Some sulphur gauze at opening. The fruit and primo terroir surface after aeration. A lot of class here, as well as old vines intensity. Flavorful. 2023 richness countered by better acidity than in the 2022. More-ish all around. Tangy, lingering aftertaste too. Bound to please attendees after further aeration. 93+/100. Sulphur abated and gunflint emerged. White Wine of the Night. Richness-acidity balance confirmed. Orders taken.

Cooperative with vineyards on all three of Sancerre's principal soil types.Though this proved reluctant upon opening, it steadily became more revealing with aeration, even into the next day. Predicted to improve further over the coming weeks. 'The real deal bistro style.' 'Mineral depth and some reticent gooseberry.' Grapefruit and gunflint on the nose.' 91+/100.

25+ year old vines on caillottes at Chavignol; aged 8 months on lees. Wow, ample and explicit expression of both variety and terroir. Simply has it all together, as usual. And 2023 assists, showing attributes of both 2021 race and 2022 richness, in harmony. And that's just the nose. Totally harmoniously on the palate too. Flavorful combo of 21 acid and 22 plumpness. A fine vintage here, but aren't they all? Worth every penny. And fully accomplished at present. 93/100. Widely appreciated. 'Excellent, great fruit, mineral, acid.' 'Yum!!' 'One of the best I've tasted recently.'

2021: Wow, 2021 dash! Brisk citricity. Lack of those soft tropical fruits in this cool vintage. Cuts to the quick. Yes, indeed, this is racy. Some passion fruit flavor chimes in. Great sweet/acid balance. Long finish. Delish. 93/100.

At Chavignol; one of four single vineyard cuvees; 50 year old vines in pebbly limestone soil. Plenty bright and brisk, even nearing age two and from a mellow vintage. There is an old vines sense of fortitude. Yes, old vines concentration, extract. Large in the mouth. Fully well balanced and ready to apply. Long, flavorful, textured finish. 92/100.

Est. 1603; at Verdigny; on limestone; vines average 20 years; unfiltered. Label no longer includes Cote des Embouffants. Seems keener, racier than past vintages of this, possibly due to an expansion of sources. This is really elegantly styled, lifted, light hearted. Palate richer. More like what I'd expect of 2023. Still the acid is keen, the balance correct, as spelled out in earlier 2023 Sancerres. The right intensity in flavor. Fresh, lithe, cleansing finish. High quality. 92/100.Attendees liked this. 'Lean Neveu style; gunflint; very dry and refreshing; spot on acid; elegantly styled.'

Vineyards in Chavignol and Sancerre. Not effusivly fragrant, but takes up lots of space. There's that sauvignon ID. Great acid in 2021 also. 92/100.

Winegrowers since the 17th century; at Verdigny; from 30 plots of chalky clay and pebbly calcareous soils. Long, quality natural cork. Fresh and right down the middle Sancerre styling with a degree of vintage plumpness as well as naturally cool lift. Yeah, nothing askew here. Properly balanced. Well textured. A tyro's introduction to Sancerre. Long, flavorful, delicious aftertaste. The tanginess goes on and on. 93/100.

At Chaudoux-Verdigny. Best Cork Award. Strong and serious, classic, terroir oriented Sancerre. None of those soft tropical fruits here. This sticks to old time style. As full bodied as the nose suggests. Young and just shipped, so there's a lot more to come here. I love its depth and poise and potential. 93+/100. Aeration worked wonders. The Toast of the Tasting. 'Gorgeous nose! Complex - Wow.' 'Nice body. Everything I'm looking for.' 'A classic.'

At Verdigny; dispersed vineyards on silex, caillottes, and terres blanches. This always shows great form, terroir, and aromatic discretion, and the 2023 fits the pattern. Right on. Same on the palate. Mineral over citrus. Lovely 2023 sort of sweet-acid balance. There have been fuller and flashier 23 Sancerres. Regardless, this displays a quiet confidence and harmony that will satisfy a wide audience and wide selection of entrees. And improve over the next year. 93+/100. Very popular with attendees. 'Can't remember a more elegant Sancerre.'

At Maimbray; on Marne clay-limestone; unfiltered. A little sulphur cannot hide what's something special about this, and always is. Crisp, coy, intriguing, unescapable. I have to keep sniffing and sniffing in search of it all. Oh, yes, there's a sense of a different sort of Sancerre terroir here. Gives it some Fume characteristics. Yes, a certain plushness yet still the good acid cut. This has certain opportunity to wax bigger. 93+/100. An attendee favorite. 'This is serious. Has it all: impeccable balance, lush fruit, mineral, acid, very long finish.'

At Maimbray; on Marne clay-limestone; unfiltered. Coy at opening but clearly confident. Well proportioned. Oh, this is ENTIRELY well proportioned!/ Something of the fruit tenderness of 2022 that is nonetheless cut through by vigorous fruit acidity. Very long, clinging aftertaste, especially texture wise. Another champion in tune with the series. 93+/100. Became more revealing after 2 hours' aeration. Thus, very popular with the group. Usually is.

Clay-limestone soil laced with stones (caillottes) in the townships of Bue, Amigny, and Sancerre. Va, va, voom. Roger push, volume, mass. Correctly placed at the end of the Sancerre set! The nose just won't quit. There you go again. Almost chewy textured thanks to all its material goodness. And long listing. Yikes. 94+/100. White WOTN for several. Barrel influenced noted. And greatest potential to improve. 'My style of Sancerre.'

Clay-limestone soil laced with stones (caillottes) in the townships of Bue, Amigny, and Sancerre. Both fresh and full. Harmonious amalgam of vintage, terroir, and winemaker characteristics. Boy, the aromas just keep pouring forth. Cool and flavorful. Sneaky acidity builds in the back to perform a balancing act with the wine's ample dryness and body. He's done it again. 93/100. Big attendee fave. 'Just superb; perfect; great acid; just wow!' 'White wine of the night.'

Vines average 30 years; on terres blanches near Crezancy and Bue. More aromatic push still than the preceding Sancerres in the set. Either innate or thanks to a few minutes' more warmth and aeration. One of the best vintages of this. A lot of give already. Slightly on the softer side of its predecessors. That brings it back down to a notch. More aroma and texture to come. 91+/100.

2021: 45 acres on argille-calcaire surrounding the chateau; owned by Langlois-Chateau since 2016. Dry and dusty sauvignon aroma. Pointed and penetrating. Unique. Yeah, this is 2021 cutting and clean as a whistle. Gooseberry comes on in the back. Real lemony tang and 2021 acidity. Great fish wine. Not fancy. Just good Sancerre at a great price these days. The group deemed it a good value. 92/100.

25 year old vines surrounding Chavignol; native yeasts; aged on lees 4-6 months; unfined. Understated aroma. Seems crisp enough. Well, there's more expression, more feel and flavor and 2021 acid race. 91/100. Enjoyed by the group.

2020: Lees aging until June. Both sweet and sprightly. Leaps out of the glass. A treat. Wow, sweet, flashy, vigorous. Complete Sancerre. Yikes! 94/100.

I visited this burly ex-rugger some 35 years ago; today, his daughter runs the show; Peter Weygandt selection. The peachier aspect that is Fume sauvignon next to Sancerre. A year more along, and that's flattering. Good stage for this. Racy acidity for the vintage. And the peach and peel theme continues. Long finish. Any asparagus still around? 92/100. Well liked by attendees; orders taken. 'Expressive! Different terroir for sure. More mineral driven. Gunflint smokiness.' 'Screamed its terroir. Great wine. Nice cut for the vintage.'

Regis Minet took over his grandfather's vines in 1976 and went on to make a small business out of Pouilly-Fume, now farming 25 acres, most of the vines between 25 and 30 years old, all on clay-limestone soils. He ferments without added yeasts in stainless steel, where the wine ages on the lees for six months. Pungent yet subtle. Pouilly Fume peachy and penetrating. Zesty, zingy, challenging. Very well textured. Star qualities all around. 93/100.

5 generation estate at Loges; small stones over limestone and clay; 30 year old vines. Natural yeasts. 5 months on barrel lees. Richer and peachier than your typical Sancerre, which is proper. In a good aromatic phase at age two. Yes, 2022 softness, adequate acidity, good texture, AOC peachy flavor. Long, balanced finish. I think this has plenty in the tank to go a few miles farther, aromatically. 91+/100. Liked by attendees. 'Real substance here.' 'Fresh enough to be a 2023.' 'Just my style.'

Glowing magenta. Cool and clear take on gamay that is distinct from Beaujolais Grand Cru, which it resembles in stature. I guess the zones really aren't that far apart, though on different river systems. Very large and well textured in the mouth while cool and stony. About the best Serol I've tasted, good as they all are. Length feel and flavor. 92/100.

85% pinot noir, 15% gamay; Gold Medal ? Gilbert & Gaillard. This does the job. Rich, round pinot noir suggestive of fruit from both northern and southern limits of the region. I mean, there's a crisp edge and plush center. And the gamay supplies additional vivacity. Wow, bright and spicy cherry and clove flavors. Anything but traditional; everything about delightful. Deal! 91/100.

Dark red violet 2020 color. Fresh and cool, even ventilating. Defines its appellation. 2020 purple-black fruit. Juicy and flavorful. Good acid. Lasting feel and flavor. 91/100.

2021: From the lower slopes of Chorey les Beaune; vine age: 45 years; 1 year in seasoned barrels; unfiltered. Tartrate crystals on the cork--a good sign. Freshness and briskness of the vintage. Underlying richness and concentration of old vines fruit. Red raspberry and cherry; strawberry. Not at all tart. The acid is ripe, and so is the fruit. No tannin issues. Well balanced. Serve or cellar options. 92+/100. Everyone liked the wine, the price, and the 'ready to serve' invitation. Red Wine of the Night for one attendee.

14%. From the lower slopes of Chorey les Beaune; vine age: 45 years; 1 year in seasoned barrels; unfiltered. Bigger, more solid, more powerful than the 2021 tasted last week. I can believe the alcohol statement. Glad the 2021 is still prominent in recent memory. The pair is exemplary of the stylistic vintage differences. Barrel suggestions offered. Full, flavorful, quite strong again. Moderate, fine grained tannin. Less appeal than the 2021 at present; greater cellar potential.92+/100. Attendees at both tastings were split over which vintage was favored.

Est. 17th century; 40-70 year old vines; aged a year in seasoned oak barrels. Purple cast. Purple 2020 fruit. Chalonnaise density and resin. Young. Yeah, still a block. Chewy material. Loaded, but at least months from spread and softness, maybe a year or so. 91++/100.

At Gevrey Chambertin; winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; aged in seasoned barrels of Alliers and Nevers oak. Nice and black and plummy Cote de Nuits take on pinot. How does he keep putting out these ultra early releases that already have their @#%& together-/ Great acid. Medium bodied. Some astringency in the back. Light, fine grained tannin. So it's not so all together yet after all. 91+/100.

From Cote de Nuits terroir. Substantial, especially for 2017. Meaty. Barrel aging extras. Rich and large for the vintage. Really has the goods. Full bodied. 92+/100.

Est. 2019 by the Henri Gouges family to extend its talents beyond the borders of its Nuits Saint Georges estate; from the base of the vineyard Des Petits Chaliots at Nuits Saint Georges. Cork reads 'Bourgogne Cote d'Or'. Dark purple color typical of a Gouges wine. Oh, this is sweet and all enveloping, especially for 2020. Spicy too. Barrel influenced in the best way. My first Gouges negoc wine. I'm impressed. It's not as backward as the young estate wines. Yes, lusher, more forward. 20 structure and tannin all the same. Deal. 94+/100.

Vines planted in 1974 and 1989; native yeasts; aged a year in oak casks. Appropriately light color of pinot from a cool vintage. It belies and rich and robust, forthcoming Chalonnaise aroma set of black cherry, resin, and wood spices. Albeit 2021 crisp and cool at the same time. Equally generous in the mouth and, again displaying bright fruit acidity. Wide spectrum of fruit and barrel flavors. No tannin issues. Long finish showing lovely texture. 93+/100.

2 acre vineyard bordering Chambolle Musigny; barrel aged, 30-50% new depending on vintage; unfined, unfiltered. Some 2020 retarded nature to start but quickly sweetens up. Black Nuits fruit. Gevrey forthright plus Chambolle elegant. Complex, classy, superb. 93+/100. The panel went ape for this one. Wine of the Night.

Vineyard on clay in Chambolle Musigny commune, planted in the 1960s; 25% whole clusters; indigenous yeasts; 12 months in barrels, 25% new; unfiltered;. Oh, this is deep, serious, complicated. Definitely barrel inflected. To the extent that the oak needs more time to settle in. It still silences village and pinot tales. A big mouthful of sweet fruit and solid, tannic oak. One loaded babe. No way this is going anywhere but straight to the cellar. This aired well over the next couple of hours, revealing more Cbambolle perfume. 93+/100.

Vines planted between 1956 and 1965 at Premeaux-Prissey; 20% barrel aged a year, 10% of the barrels new. Speaks of Nuits St. Georges area purple plum fruit. Holding back a lot in reserve at opening. It has good 2019 flow. Just needs more aeration and/or bottle age for aromatic fulfillment. The tannins are ultra fine. It remained reserved over the coming hours. Cellar it. 91++/100. Tasted 10/27/21

Made from parcels in Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%). Much paler color than the norm. Maybe the palest in the series. Ah, but that belies a pinot fruit richness and roundness. And exceptional BRIGHTNESS in 2021. A joy to sniff. Another good year for this cuvee. Yes, cherry, creme, white chocolate. Great acid in 21 of course. I don't miss the extra weight. This is alluring, and ready to serve. 92/100. Attendees agreed with my assessment.

Made from parcels in Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%). Since nosing the 2018 after more bottle age, this one is relatively enclosed in youth upon opening. Two hours later, the nose spread out all over the place to become a group favorite. The palate offers a peacock's tail range of terroir nuances and seemingly some barrel extracts. Group descriptions include 'The read deal and a real bargain. Super flavorful and really Burgundian. Just wonderful, especially at the price. Deep and long.' 92+/100.

Jurassic limestone; at Tonnerre; native yeasts; half aged in seasoned oak cooperage. Neon red violet color. 2022 lends a measure of soft, friendly, forward fruit to what is in the Tonnerre area usually a more austere style of pinot. Unique and appealing. Palate confirms the relatively fruit forward styling, while the acid is full and brisk, as it should be. Fine tannin completes the balanced textural attractions. Markedly different from the 2021, yet just as virtuous in its own way. 92+/100. Loved by the commentators: 'Great Burgundian nose', 'Lovely wine', 'Great price'.

From 50 year old vines near Gevrey Chambertin; yields 2 tons per acre. Plummy Nuits pinot color. 2020 and Gevrey stout stuff. Signs of barrel elevage. The most compact of the three vintages 2018-2020. Wow, fully packed with sweet pinot fruit and terroir and old vines structure. Good acid; relatively melted tannins for the vintage. Will reward cellaring with additional bottle bouquet complexity. 92+/100. Loved by all. 'Serious, complex, youthful, balanced, village level quality'. Orders taken.

From 50 year old vines near Gevrey Chambertin; yields 2 tons per acre. Not much nose. Much more texture and flavor than aromatic presence. A solid, somewhat tannic northern Cote de Nuits pinot, a little foursquare at this juncture. Good form for aging, and fine tannin as well. 91+/100.

Est. 1967 at Morey Saint Denis; all Cote de Nuits fruit; average vine age: 50 years; 20% whole clusters; aged in amphorae; unfined, unfiltered. Bright, cheery red violet. Purple plum and bing cherry Nuits pinot ID. Magnien styling meets 2020 dark fruit heartiness. 2020 dark peels extract concentration. There's a certain charm here, but the vintage's black fruit concentration remains to the fore. There's a lot packed in here. I surmise it will cellar well. 92+/100.

Est. 1984 at Maligny, just north of Chablis; 25 year old vines in Kimmeridgian limestone. That's the northern stuff, all right. Cool, crackling pinot from limestone. With 2020 frame and filling. Relative richness and roundness this vintage. The tannins are melted already. Great savor on a long finish. 92+/100. Wednesday group host Dave had enjoyed this at a restaurant and thought the group might too. Indeed, attendees did. Comments include 'unique, likeable, some pinot spice, smoke, umami.'

4-generation winegrowers that began domaine bottling in 1981; vineyard high on the slope; 50+ year old vines on Comblanchien limestone. Oh, it that fresh, lifted, and forthcoming. An exceptionally buoyant Marsannay. Altitude and limestone contributions. Relatively soft and pliant for 2020. This flows gently already. Flavors build as it warms in the mouth. No reason to postpone gratification except for the sake of more aromatic intensity, range, depth, and complexity. The tannins are melted. 94+/100. Everybody's Wine of the Night.

40+ year old vines on marl in Couchey; aged in barrels, 25% new. Marl, lower elevation, and more southerly locale give more body to this than found in last week's Boivins. Less elegance, more heft. Well, there is Collotte charm on the palate. Sweet core, good framework, skillfully interwoven oak aspects. No two alike. The first choice of the 20 Collotte Marsannay set for cellar augmentation. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for most attendees.

4-generation winegrowers that began domaine bottling in 1981; proposed for Premier Cru; 50+ year old vines in Couchey on crinoidal limestone. More robust than the 2019. Deep, rich, round pinot with a hint of oak complexity. Old vines and 'Premier Cru' ample. This delivers. Great flavor and acid ring. This really defines fine Marsannay rouge. The tannins are fine grained and well coated. Cellaring will generate a 'wow' bouquet. 93+/100. Very popular. One commentator's Wine of the Night. Orders taken.

2018: All three aged in barrels, 25% new; 2 old vine parcels on crinoidal and Comblanchien limestone. Grand, complex, high toned fruit and barrel tones evident. Large scale and ambitious. Oh, it all comes out on the palate too: a peacock's tail of flavor variations. Great savor and texture too. Always a choice Marsannay site from my experience. Breathless. 94+/100.

Winegrowers for generations, the Esmonins began bottling their own wines in 1988; vineyard on the south side of the AOC, near Mazis; aged in barrels, 20% new; unfiltered. Full red-black color for burgundy. Luxurious, well padded pinot with purple and black Nuits cote fruits and not a small measure of oak's warm spices. Sweet and enticing. Good acidity. A measure of very fine tannin. At 12.5%, I'm not getting a lot of Gevrey power and stature. Regardless, this guy may be on to something. A pleasure to drink now, really. Quelle surprise! 93+/100.

Misa Imports private label for wines of Domaine Bertrand Amboise; 45 year old vines in five parcels; aged in barrels, 70% new. Plush red violet color. NSG black fruited. Plummy. Oak complex that augments rather than dominates. Classic to AOC. Good power and presence. Sweet fruit. Dry fruit and oak tannins. 2020 framework. Good makings here. 93+/100. I feared this would come across too oaky for attendees. Indeed, it did for one. For the rest: Wine of the Night.

At Corgoloin, south of Nuits St. Georges; 40-45 year old vines. Deep, dark, plummy Nuits pinot nose. Well extracted. Powerful in the Taster glass. Large in the mouth. Flavors restrained by peel tannins. Altogether power packed Nuits pinot requiring cellaring. 92+/100.

Four-generation estate; 16 months in barrels; unfined. By comparison, crisper and much more complicated and enticing than an Oregon pinot noir that preceded it. In the series, definitely the lightest and coolest vintage yet. Medium bodied. Adequately ripe. Understated yet. Light and fine grained tannins suggest mid term cellaring potential. 91+/100. Following two hours' aeration, Wine of the Night for most attendees. Reported even better the next day, as well as drinking well currently.

Nose certainly tells of Savigny griottes. A crisper, cooler, lighter take this vintage. Another very pure expression. Good flow and flavor. Good acid of course. Some tannin in back, including perhaps some wood tannin, though the aromas and flavors are not particularly barrel derived. Mid term ager. Lasting, flavorful finish. 92+/100. Oak spices later emerged. Judged to be drinking well already.

Est. 1632; winery still at the same site in Puligny. That's a pretty and accurate Savigny pinot griottes aroma. Firm 2020 underpinnings. Oh, the wild cherries just burst out all over the palate. A Savigny tried and true. It's not really tannic, but it has a 2020 firmness about it yet so will accrue in the cellar for several years. 93+/100. Attendees noted that Savigny pinot wild cherry character and detected a deft touch of oak too. Orders taken.

Est. 1632; winery still at the same site in Puligny. Wild and crazy stopper. I must look into it. Heavy Bottle Award. Good form and reserve shown by many a 2019 red burgundy. Crisp take on Savigny griottes. Good acid in harmony with a more revealing palatal richness. It's betwixt and between in aroma-to-bouquet evolution, so this is not the time to take it to the table. Fine mid term cellar candidate. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for at least one attendee. Following aeration, it was judged 'delicious now; ready to serve now.'

Four generation estate; 1 hectare vineyard next to Clos du Roi; 35 year old vines; aged a year in barrels. Expansive already, whereas several 2019s we've tasted of late want for more bottle age. That's the Arnoux style. Doesn't mean it's going to wilt early, as the 2011s tasted last year proved. A beautifully sweet Beaune red fruit pinot nose. Just as rich and generous on the palate. Likely candidate for the table now, or whenever. These never seem to go through a dumb phase. The group was blown away by this one. 95+/100.

Est. 1980; vineyard in the northwest sector next to Clos des Mouches; vines average 40 years; aged 15 months in barrels, 30% new; unfined, unfiltered. Beaune soft, broad, and, as always, an undefinable take on pinot. It does bear a resemblance to Clos des Mouches I've tasted. Great acidity, considerable but fine-grained tannins. Premier Cru stature, significance. And that Girardin combo of tradition and modernity. Not abrasive; still, there's lots of aromatic growth to go. 94+/100. Wine of the Night. Many orders taken.

Wine Enthusiast 92/100. My notes: Jolly red ruby color. Rightly Pommard plump. Oak framing contains it. Well crafted. Sweet, red-fruited Cote de Beaune with Pommard generosity. Its power complements the overall presentation. I'll bet this will cellar well--mid term, rather than long term. Bargain priced for a vineyard-designate Pommard these days. 93+/100.

From 100 year old vines; aged a year in oak barrels, 20% new. This is certainly old vines dense. Auxey rouge austere too, even at 5+ years of age and a relatively forward vintage. Yeah, this is all potential. Loaded. Waste of money to drink now. But just you white enry iggins..93++/100. Attendees recognized and respected its grandeur and potential. Orders taken, with the intention to cellar. 'Cote d'Or character. Tight now but so good. Pinot spice with touch of underbrush. New oak soaked up by excellent 2018 fruit.' 'Wine of the Night. So much wine here; fruit and mineral depth, intense structure, appropriate use of oak.'

7th generation domaine at Auxey Duresses. Both vintage lift and old vines intensity make for an invigorating nasal experience. Not as structured as the 2020. More revealing, transparent, joyous. That combo of freshness and intensity carries over to the palate. A subtle oak complex adds to the total picture. No obtrusive tannins this vintage. Balanced, rangy, freshly acidic, and flavorful at this stage, nothing stands in the way of taking this to the table over the coming months. It's a summer sort of Burgundy vintage. Besides, a VV village wine at a Bourgogne price. 94/100. Wine of the Night for most attendees.

7th generation domaine at Auxey Duresses. Sweet and ample strawberry and red cherry Cote de Beaune pinot display. It's old vines generous and concentrated. Barrel seasonings stirred in through and through. Great acid. Medium to full bodied. Flavors less forthcoming than aromas. Some fine grained tannins. The acidity is just striking, and presages a fond future. Among the Europhiles, the favorite of the three red burgundies in this evening's set for its acidity, classicism, and potential. 93+/100.

A lieu dit within Reugne 1er Cru; replanted in 1989; aged a year in barrels, 10% new. The fruit is stronger, darker, more pronounced. More alcohol evident. Slightly fuller bodied. Even better acid. Slightly more tannin. Each needs more bottle age for aroma/flavor development than did the VV last week. 92+/100.

Est, 1920; 55 year old vines; native yeasts; aged a year in foudres; unfined. Properly rich and plummy C-M rouge. Old vines amplitude, barrel honed breadth, depth, suavity. Tannins constrain the palate a bit. Still, the nasal features are reiterated. I'd be cellaring this through at least age five. 93+/100. Well liked by attendees, who recognized its potential for improvement. 'Excellent! A bit young, firm tannins, fruit is there.' 'Lovely nose! Decent amount of tannin.' 'I enjoy it. Good future potential.' Orders taken.

South facing clay-limestone vineyard close to the village; vines planted 1939, 1985. Aged a year in barrels, 45% new. Santenay dark fruited and frank. Good 2019 firm fruit core. No doubt about the barrel influence. For me, it's appealing even when still somewhat superficial. I know it's going to sink in with bottle age. Good 2019 concentration and fruit substance. Both oak and fruit tannins to resolve. Dry finish for the time being. Real Santenay. 92+/100.

A very dark, cool, and clear Maranges definition, as it always is. Seems at the southern reaches of the Cote de Beaune, the pinots take on a Nuits like dark fruit element, moving from strawberry and cherry to plum. Good barrel extras here. Very good race, acid, balance, flavor clarity. The tannins are fine grained. Not a bearish young 2019. I'll be stocking this one. 92+/100.

Vigneron at Auxey Duresses; 50 year old vines; aged 10 months in 2 - 4 year old barrels. Wow, is that one bright and splashy, high altitude 2021 pinot. Sweet cherry core too. Very special. Just as dazzling on the palate. Just as sweet a core. Slight reductive leaning doesn't faze me. Great price. 93/100. 'Just delish! Real Bourgogne.'

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. Shallow soil, calcareous and heavily pebbled. Aged 7 months in stainless steel and 3 months in oak. Medium dark red. Oh, this is sultry. The most engaging of Chalon pinot red cherry noses, uber forthcoming and inviting. The oak kiss is nice too. Great acid and full dryness for food. Better than the 2020, me thinks. Long lasting. Just a dusting of fine tannin. Great deal in red burgundy these days. 93+/100.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National; aged a year in barrels. Oh, that's a deep, black fruited Mercurey with Cote de Nuits leanings. Complex nuances of barrel age. I think I'm going to like this even better than the 2021. More body, more structure, more acid, and more tannin than the Duck Pond. Totally more serious, complex in flavor and texture, and age worthy too. And barely more expensive! Buxy scores again. 93+/100.

Now some oak extras enter the red wine picture. Both solid and sophisticated vintage of this. Mercurey dense and black plum scented. Healthy modicum of oak. Large, barrel assuaged and complicated. Complex of oak and fruit influences in total harmony. The tannin is starting to loosen its earlier grip yet still presages improvement in the cellar. Potent and ambitious. 92+/100.

On clay loams and limestone; vineyard planted in 1985; aged ten months in barrels, 25% new. Dark red violet. New oak exotica to the fore. Really classy and complex oak extraa. Very concentrated old vines Givry statement fully evident too. Wow, this vastly exceeds the 2018 village wine's ambitions. Yes, powerful, complicated, large scaled. That combo marks it a red Burgundy deal at the price. 93+/100. 'Really rich and super long; delish; perfect now.' 'Voluminous, ripe, powerful; baking spices, barrel nuances; good acid.'

Est. 1927; ninth generation vigneron at Odenas; 50-60 year old vines on sand and granite soils; whole cluster fermented by wild yeasts. Not much nouveau-ish about this one either. It's Villages and old vines large too. Ready to apply. Yes, large, structured, and bountiful on the palate. Good acid and extract. Serious stuff. 92+/100.

Got to be one of the best 'basic' Beaujolais wines in the market. Combo of old vines and a master winegrower. No carbonic maceration tutti-frutti aspects at all. Old vines intense. Perfect clarity of image. Extra aromatic nuances not found elsewhere in its genre. Full flavored and textured. Even a little tannin to shed. Comes with the peels extracts. An ample vintage in this proud series. Worth every penny. 93+/100.

5 generation estate; from vineyards on marl at Le Bois d'Oingt and on granite at Saint Verand. Pretty crimson color. Red fruited. A little dry and reticent. Again, the impression is one of dryness and low key flavor profile. Attractive strawberry and raspberry notes at the end. Would appreciate more bottle age. 90+/100.

Est. 1512; vines 50-100 years old; 2/3 on granitic soils, unusual in southern Beaujolais; native years; unfiltered. Sweet smelling, dark fruited, nicely polished; in tune. Dupeuble smooth. Good acid. Dusting of fine grained tannins. Old vines material extract, grip. 91+/100.

One of the few, if only, Beaujolais Villages to bear a village name. Pretty, pretty. A real charmer. With extra Villages amplitude too. Fulfills all expectations. Racy, sweet-tart palate. Even a measure of tannin. Nose says go, palate says hold on. Yes, really quite dry and chewy on the aftertaste. 92+/100.

Chantecler, the Gallic rooster; there are 38 villages dotted around the Grands Crus in northern Beaujolais on granitic soils distinct from the sandy reaches of the south. Village rich and rangy. Terroir talks. Nice and forthcoming 2022 at age two. Really good acid for 2022 as well as its padding. Very flavorful. Delightful mealtime wine over the coming months. 92/100. Positive comments from attendees: 'Lovely fruit quality; very appropriate Villages; very structured, youthful; another year wouldn't harm this.'

70% from La Chapelle de Guinchay (sand, granite); 30% from Lancie (clay, limestone); 45 year old vines. Vibrant purple. Can't get much fresher and more primary than this nose. On the edge of reduction but not into it,/ Yeah, black and purple fruits to the fore. Crunchy black cherry. Supported by a surprising amount of body, texture, even light tannin. Well, it is a Villages after all. This will improve for the rest of 2023, at least. Super value. 91+/100.

At Fleurie; fifth generation; vines 30-90 years old. Fresh and fruity, even floral. Accomplished; no fermentation residuals. More of a sense of richness than the good 2021 showed. Yes, this is definitely fuller bodied, textured, and flavored. I sense a superior Beaujolais vintage here. Balanced and long on the aftertaste. 92/100. A very popular value with attendees.

Est. 1848; 10 acre vineyard on a steep, south facing slope of granitic soil; native yeasts. Bright, fresh, and snappy 2021 Regnie. Ideal take, really. Sweet red and black fruit and granite minerality. Plenty sweet fruit on the palate plus that racy 2021 acidity. Shows the way. 92/100. Wine of the Night for one attendee.

Est. 1877; Famille Geoffray; from an east facing slope of friable pink granite. Long Cork Award. High quality for Brouilly, if a little foursquare compared to Thivin's Cote de Brouilly. Grows more complicated and sophisticated as it airs. This has Brouilly sweet fruit substance and a minerally terroir basis. Bested only be comparison to the Thivin CdB. Maybe that's because it's more tannic than same and requires additional cellaring for fulfillment. 92+/100. Grew up with aeration. WOTN for many attendees. Reported even better next day.

Est. 1861; highest and steepest vineyards of the AOC; on granite, schist, and andesite; the oldest vines (40+ years) go into this cuvee, which is commonly purchased by French embassies; Pavillon is the building, an old hunting lodge, and Chavannes the lieu dit; Shares its Art Deco label with Chateau Thivin, as the owning families are intermarried. Whoa, that soars in 2021! So aromatic and nostril tingling that it's almost like it has a dash of positive VA. But it doesn't. That's as explicit a terroir expression of gamay as you'll get from this Grand Cru. Equally flavorful, rich in suave texture. Mouthcoating, lasting. Balanced, loaded. No tannin issues. One of the best of the series. It doesn't get any better than this. 94/100. Recognized by attendees as 'a true Grand Cru; Beaujolais with a bit more'. 'Lovely nose and flavor.'

Parker 92: 'The 2021 Cote de Brouilly has turned out nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and berries with notions of burning embers and forest floor. Medium-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with a lively core of fruit, powdery tannins and a sapid, saline finish, it marks a return to a more classically proportioned style after several richer, riper vintages. Drink now-2033.'

60 year old vines. Why do Julienas wines always have the prettiest color among the crus? Always violet. Well, the cherry suggestions are there. Purple plum too. And violets! Faithful to its genre. Flavors confirm aromas. That well tailored Julienas texture. The finest of tannins. And good acidity. Well balanced for improvement in the cellar. Good with andouillettes now. 92+/100.

Yields 3 tons per acre; native yeasts; 70% destemmed; unfined. Stylish, silky, purple plum fruited Julienas. Another Grand Cru with terroir ID. Down to the cherished overtone of violets. The palate is up to the nose. Full bodied, yet still silk textured. Some fine tannin for aging potential. 92+/100.

Domaine in the Descombe family for 120 years; on bluestone schist. A properly plummy Julienas, that character tweaked nicely by age and given floral overtones by its stylist. Singular and attractive take. Yes, plum and floral perfumes reverberate on the palate. The sweet gentleness of vintage, age, and elevage. Taylor transparent and elegant. Truly its own thing. 92/100.

Blue diorites make up part of the Julienas terroir. The usual 'plummy' association I make with Julienas. Relative leanness and closeness of a young wine from a cool vintage. 21 acid and Grand Cru richness in harmony. Likely to become even more yielding after aeration. And certainly after cellaring. Good price. 91+/100.

70 year old vineyard on granite next to Moulin a Vent; unfined, unfiltered. Long, real cork. The elegance of Fleurie meets the dark mass of Moulin a Vent. Wine of place, on the cusp. Mineral scent of a granite based rouge also. This is fairly loaded and yielding nothing to its pinot predecessors. Again, a wonderful combo of size and elegance. Quite like no other Fleurie. We loved the 2021; this is its worthy successor. 93+/100. Commanded full respect and much commentary. Wine of the Night candidate.

Wine Enthusiast 92 - TOP 100: 'This Fleurie has a distinctive aroma silhouette that immediately communicates something good is about to happen in your glass. Black raspberry leaps out on the nose followed by black plum, black tea, forest floor, red cherry and rosehip. On the palate well-integrated black fruit is in lockstep with ripe tannins.'

5th generation estate; 120 acre vineyard in the northern sector; SE exposure; granitic soil. Richness of the vintage; fullness of a northern sector Fleurie; innate elegance of this Grand Cru. Deep seated fruit. All over again. Delicious and bright cherry candy flavor. Fulling, long, balanced, satisfying. Well priced. 92/100.

5th generation domaine at Fleurie; high, terraced vineyard on pink granitic sand; 40 year old vines. This is always a large Fleurie, though it's not without some AOC floral elegance. Not a very forthcoming aroma at opening. Really good, racy fruit acidity. Again, not much in the way of aromatics yet. Balanced and cellarworthy. 91+/100.

On the border of Moulin a Vent; vines over 40 years old; aged 8 months in foudres. Oh, that is fresh, bright, fully 2022 rich. With superb Fleurie elegance. Old vines and terroir concentrated. And the flavors and textures are all the richer and more intense. Suggestion of purple fruit reduction still, and it doesn't bother me at all. Grand Fleurie. No wonder this estate is held in such high esteem. 94+/100. Widely considered Wine of the Night.

Parker 92: 'The 2020 Morgon Bellevue Sable mingles aromas of cherries and wild plums with hints of violets and spices. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and satiny, with succulent acids and melting tannins, it's charming and seamless, standing out as one of the most demonstrative, immediate wines in the range. Drink now-2033.'

Parker 95+: 'The 2020 Morgon Les Delys Vignes plantees en 1926 is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with notes of cherries and raspberries mingled with hints of licorice, sweet soil tones and cracked pepper. Medium to full-bodied, it's fleshy and concentrated, with a chassis of rich tannins and a generous core of fruit girdled by brighter acids that distinguished either the 2019 or 2018 renditions. This is correspondingly a touch more reserved out of the gates than those predecessor vintages, and it will reward a bit of patience. Drink now-2040: '

2021: 65 year old vines on granite; unfined. The medium dark color belies a voluminous noseful of Morgon from the get go. Oh, so lush, deep, broad. Brun spells what Morgon is all about. The palate is loaded with dry tannins though. So inviting to smell, so nasty to taste. Gotta cellar it. 93+/100. Wine of the Night for one attendee, and a 94/100 rating. All agreed the nose was special but the palate still bearish.

Bright and deep 'griottes' Morgon aroma. Morgon large too. Yeah, this has village character and fortitude. Unique take. 92+/100.

Smallest of the Grands Crus; next to Moulin a Vent in the north; cooperative of 80 winegrowers est. 1934; extensive cellars, one of the largest complexes in the region; Gold Medal - Paris. Wow, that's even better than the 2020, which I had tasted and expected to receive. Yes, Chenas to the core (coeur!). Substance and form of a northern Grand Cru, yet distinct from Moulin a Vent's regal stance. This nails Chenas. Well built. Plenty of both framework and filling. Flavorful. Fine 2021 acid, of course. Take to either the table or the cellar. 92+/100. 'Cru quality; textbook.'

Vineyard planted in 1939 at 1200', at the top of the Remont hillside. This is Chenas structured. No as much as Moulin a Vent, but you know it's a northern Beaujolais neighbor. Heartier than the previous vintage. The old vines really talk the talk. Yes, this is on the large scale, tannic side of Beaujolais Grand Cru. Three years old and in want of more cellaring. For vintage, old vines, and AOC, all makes sense. 91+/100. Attendees liked this and agreed it could use additional bottle age.

Parker 92: 'The 2021 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes is a pretty, charming wine, bursting with aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with peonies and potpourri. Medium-bodied, fleshy and giving, with powdery tannins and tangy acids, it also exhibits impressive concentration for the vintage. Drink now-2031.'

2015: Understandably more vital, better preserved than Dubost's 2015 Fleurie. This is the 'keeper' Grand Cru. It really is quite full bodied and full of fruit. Little MaV resistance on the nose at age 5+. 15 round and sweet fruited. In tune. A core of fine tannin works to balance the 2015 fruit abundance. Drinking well. 92/100.

From several lieux dits around Romaneche Thorins; on pink granite rich in manganese. Dark, solid, upright, 'masculine' MaV. Portrays MaV image and also ageworthiness. The fruit is present but scarcely evolved into its fifth year. Much more fruit forward palate. Flavorful, well balanced, and easy to appreciate taste pattern. Sweet fruit finish. For now or later. 91+/100.

5 generations-old estate covering 23 acres; vines 30 to 90 years old. Boy, this is rich and stout MaV for sure. Seems stronger than 13%. Pumps out the volume. Dark berries, plums, and violets. Big, mouthful MaV fulfillment. Balanced, fine tannin for texture and food, great length. Gads! 93/100. All positive reactions from the tasting panel.

On Portlandian limestone; vines average 28 years. Well, that's a step up in push and personality..and price. One of the 'grandest' Petits I've nosed. Yeah, it's not as chalky as one from Kimmeridgian limestone (Chablis proper). I think the greater proportion of clay is played well by the winemaker to make for mass. Full and flavorful, well textured and lengthy. Got to be a hallmark of Petit Chablis.93/100. Well respected by attendees. 'Exactly what it should be; nice minerality and decent acid.'

At Beine; 80 acres spread over 20 plots; vines planted as early as 1950; Mary Taylor selection. That's a searingly crisp northern chardonnay take in cool 2021. Mary's wines cut right to the quick. The palate shows more padding and still good acidity. Apple and calcaire define its terroir. 91+/100.

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 30 year old vines on Portlandian limestone. Wow, that cool, crisp, and calcareous, especially for the vintage. I suspect the malo has been suppressed. This just grows in nostril etch and penetration. Rounder on the palate. Still, plenty of green apple malic flavor and acidity for balance and refreshment. Gains more mass on the finish. Full bodied for its AOC. 92/100.

Impressive from the get go. Both racy and deep. Close to being fulfilled even though just shipped. The right Petit Chablis style. Not as chalky as the village wine.After 2021, relatively soft but adequately acidic. Ripe fruit gives good flavor profile. Spot on. 92/100. Well liked by attendees.

Based on Sur Les Clos, a vineyard above the Grand Cru. Crisp, cool, chalky, and particularly full for a Petit. Classic Servin. Oh, boy, does that calcaire penetrate!/ Well, the acid it a bit lower than the nose suggests. That's 2022. The minerality helps to compensate. Flavorful and well balanced. Reasonably lasting finish. 92/100. Attendees liked this and agreed it was fuller bodied and of higher quality than the Petit Chablis norm.

Single vineyard; 30 year old vines; native yeasts.

Vineyard between Milly and Fleys; 25 year old vines. Nice and fresh, unabashedly unwooded, and nearly as crisp as the 2021. Calcaire notions. Lemony flavor. Brisk acid. Ready to take to the table. A tyro's guide to Chablis. 91/100.

Est. 2013 at Prehy, 4 miles southwest of Chablis; 40-45 year old vines; native yeasts; aged 10 months on lees in vats. Celine et Frederic. New to market. Pungent, up front 2022 fruit that stays within bounds of the Chablis vernacular for its good, cool limestone basis. Works for me. Less flavor than aroma at this stage. The acid is 2022 soft yet adequate. A pleasing Chablis for the money. 92+/100.Attendees liked this for the price too. 'Very nice wine, clean and well made; long finish.'

At Maligny; 300 years in the Lamblin family; unoaked. In tun e with the vintage, this is quite the fruity Chablis, while staying in bounds. Ventilating calcaire in abundance too. I smell a bargain. Forward and fruity again. Come hither, really. The acid is ripe and adequate for balance. Combo of classicism and modern up front appeal. I like that, and I like the price. Versatile at the table. 92/100. Enjoyed by attendees and considered priceworthy. 'Proper Chablis, fresh, with excellent acidity. Very friendly; no pretense.' 'Classic; love it; bargain; wow.'

Est. 1814; full malo; aged 8 months on lees. This is full. It smells of Chablis terroir, though more earthy than limey. I wasn't expecting this much concentration, but, then, 2021 saw a small harvest. Good and full in the mouth too. More fruit flavor than aroma. Good, juicy acidity of '21 carries it through to the finish. 91+/100.

At Beine; 10 acre vineyard of 40 year old vines; Mary Taylor selection. Nose fuller but less forthcoming. More body, more extract, and more acidity. This is indeed more-ish, and the tete a tete is a good lesson. Again, the Taylor transparency that takes you right to the terroir, without further manipulation. 92+/100.

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 25 year old vines. Hmm, a sense of barrel influence? Fuller than last week's Petit but less forthcoming, aromatically. More padding in the 2022s than the 2021s. The acidity is certainly adequate though. More flavor than aroma as it warms in the mouth. Another one that's likely to blossom over the next couple of hours. Which it did. 92+/100. Nine months later: More-ish. Oh, yes. Much more. Body, flavor, savor, terroir. 92/100.

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 35 year old vines. What a nuisance this wax capsule is. The wine better be good! Perhaps the wax creates a little too hermetic a seal, as there are some reductive leanings here at opening. Old vines concentration clear all the same. Appley cool climate chardonnay. Not as ringing an acidity as the 2021. Broadens and lengthens with even brief aeration. I suspect it will continue to do so. 93+/100. And it did. Third 2022 Savary in three weeks. Good, better, best. Each left a positive impression on the panel, and each recognized as distinct from the other.

Est. 1590; 25-40 year old vines. A little more backward than the 22 Petit Chablis and also fuller, more nostril swelling. Also exceptionally fruity in 2022. The terroir comes in the chalky texture, the mouthfeel. More substance, weight, and potential here. Lasting finish. 92+/100. Attendees liked this one even better.

Est. 1590; at Maligny; 80-100 year old vines. Well, there it is, the full old vines intensity we loved in the 2021. If it's a tad richer in constitution, I hardly notice thanks to that old vines extra concentration. And to think I wasn't much of a fan of this Seguinot cuvee before 2021. Well, it is 2022 softer and rounder on the palate than the 2021. Full of that old vines intensity all the same. Lasting. And the price has come down three bucks, thanks to a more bountiful harvest, I suspect. No need to postpone gratification. 93/100. 'Very Chablis, very intense and VV'.

Lies between 1er Crus Vosgros and Montmains; fallow at the time of the classification; vines average 35 years. Cool and stony. Calcaire. The greater softness of 2022 versus 2021 Pargues. Still, the acid is Chablis tangy. Needs more bottle age to fill out. 92+/100. Or simply more aeration. Very popular with attendees for both quality and value. 'Just wonderful.' 'Great and big nose and flavor.' 'Nice acid, and rich and long.'

4 generation estate; 9 acres in Cote de Lechet, scattered over 6 plots. Long and real cork; unique in both respects today. Premier Cru size and aromatic intensity, perhaps the most yet in the series. Impressive. Vintage's sweet fruit appeal, and its nice acid balance. I repeat the words '21 acidity, 22 richness combined'. Now or later. 93+/100. Very popular with attendees. '1er Cru stature; minerality, hint of gunflint; smooth, concentrated palate.'

Est. 1984; bottling since 1990; 25 year old vines. There's a dusting of SO2, yet it can't deny Chablis terroir and Premier Cru amplitude. Runs deep and wide. Feel and flavor more obscured by sulphur. I sense the material and potential intact. Certainly a larger and more widespread Chablis than the good village wine. Good value if aired and/or cellared a spell. Some attendees also noted SO2 lingering a couple hours after opening. By the next day, it had aired off, revealing fully the terroir and Premier Cru rank. 92+/100.

Est. 1814. Premier Cru fruit mass lurks beneath a light veil of SO2 upon opening. More clarification on the palate as usual. Full 1er Cru extract, minerality supply the grip to support its moderate acid level. Clearly stated Moreau elegance. No barriers to current service; still, there's so much more to come.93+/100. Aired well. Wine of the Night. 'Premier Cru class.' 'As it warms, it comes alive; latent complexity; minerally nose; smooth, silky palate.'

This is very full for Fourchaume. More like a Right Bank Premier Cru. Full flavored and full bodied indeed. With some of that Fourchaume padding. Moderate acidity. A really full blown example of Fourchaume. 94+/100.

Oh that's good and Premier Cru large. With the largesse of Fourchaume. Bouquet starting to form at age four plus. Spot on. Full bodied, generous, giving. Some of the sweet, inviting appeal of Fourchaume and 2019. This will endure and improve mid term All one could want, and at a decent price. Must have. 93/100.

Est. 1590; vineyards 45-60 years old, facing south-southeast; unwooded. Fourchaume richness and roundness emphasized in the 2022 vintage. This is about the most readily accessible of the Premier Crus, as well as one of the largest. Round, fruity, and eager to please. Still, Chablis to the heart. You'd never mistake this for a Burgundy chardonnay from sectors farther south. There's underlying race and calcaire. Continues to build, to add weight on the palate as it warms. Definitely Premier Cru material. 93+/100.

Parker 93: 'As is often the case, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots is the most honeyed, sensual wine in the Servin portfolio, with wafting aromas of beeswax, acacia honey, white flowers and sweet stone fruit. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's broad, textural and enveloping, with a glossy attack and a bright, fleshy mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. It's a particularly strong rendition of this cuvée and will have considerable gastronomic potential. Drink 2025-2045. The 2020 vintage looks to be the domaine's finest and most consistent since 2017, and shrewd consumers will find much to admire here.'

Parker 95: 'A brilliant effort from François Servin and his winemaker Mark Cameron, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos exhibits an incipiently complex bouquet of citrus oil, crisp stone fruits, wet stones and nutmeg, followed by a full-bodied, satiny and vibrant palate that's seamless and incisive, exhibiting all the site's typical power in an especially harmonious, beautifully balanced format. Drink 2025-2045.'

Brittle 18 extract and high calcaire. Bright, crisp, northern, penetrating. Brilliant freshness. Fine 2018 fruit padding too. Yow, total grip and jawbreaker extract. Hard to swallow. Gains fruit as it warms, which pulls it into a well-balanced position. A great concept. 92+/100.

Est. 1859; vines planted between 1944 and 1991; aged 6 months in barrels, 20% new. Classic white burgundy set of barrel fermentation, time on lees, and barrel aging effects of both suavity and outright new oak savors. A treat for me. Upon opening, surprisingly understated acidity as 2021s go, so perhaps a measure of malo here. Doesn't have much of an influence on the overall presentation's classicism. 92+/100. Attendees too enjoyed the barrel influences. No comments on understated acidity; in fact, one attendee described it as 'spritely'.

17 acre estate, mainly in Puligny; deepest, coldest cellar in the village, which has a high water table; from the younger Puligny vines; aged 90% in puncheons, 10 % in new barrels. Quite a lot of oak. Cool vintage, cool cellar, cool customer. I like its prospects. There's that calcaire Puligny foundation. The oak is positive, adding complexity to both flavor and texture. This is easily worth the tariff in the world of white burgundies today. Balanced, giving, 2021 structured, Many a $60 to $80 village wine would not compete. 93+/100.

Surprisingly barrel augmented. Full. Good fruit concentration and Chalonnaise terroir expression. This has a lot to give. 91+/100.

20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered; a fallow plot lying within the boundaries of Meursault le Dos d'Ane and Chaumes des Perrieres when purchased by Raymond's grandfather in 1975. Fallow because this rocky, calcareous parcel was covered with soil too shallow to bear new vines. His grandfather asked for and received permission to add eight inches of topsoil to the section. This desecration of terroir incited his neighbors to get the vineyard declassified from Meursault to Bourgogne Blanc. Fair enough while the vines were young, but now, at age 45, their roots are well down into the original soil and subsoil of Meursault le Dos d'Ane and Chaumes des Perrieres, and the wines talk the Meursault talk. Wow. Now we're getting into some full body, heavy weight white wine. Meursault indeed. The nuts, the grains, the autumnal smells. And fine, well integrated barrel and lees regimen. Yes, bulky on the palate. Fills the mouth; body and texture. Yards to go for bouquet fulfillment, and what a bouquet more bottle age will generate. Just huge presence. 95+/100.

At Maligny (Chablis area); 300 years in the Lamblin family; from estate and purchased fruit. This is a Chablis ringer. Brisk, redolent of apple, citrus, and calcaire. The palate has good 2022 padding as well as compensating acidity. Long, well balanced follow through There are positive textural elements, giving balance of fruit sweetness and acidity. 92+/100. Attendees judged it a Chablis like bargain. Big time group favorite. Wine of the Night for many.

60% Macon Lugny, 40% Montagny. Well, there's oak up front here upon opening. Montagny body, Macon race. Well conceived. Needs time for the oak to soak in. Flavorful of ripe 2019 and augmented to a lesser degree by oak. I like its ambitions and prospects. 92+/100.

2018: At Chassagne Montrachet; from 4 level sites planted 1980-2006; 1 at Puligny, 1 at Chassagne, and 2 at Santenay; half aged in barrels, 20% new. A little sulphur scratch. The oak is to the fore but not to the extent it dominates the overall nasal experience. Oak and fruit flavor melange. The fruit is 2018 sunny. This is nuanced, intriguing, despite being between aroma and bouquet. Entertaining. Not out of balance for current table service. 91+/100.

On Kimmeridgian limestone in Tonnerre and Molosmes north of Chablis; vines planted from 1954 to 1990; aged 8 months on lees in vats and seasoned barrels. Light gold color. A weighty combo of terroir, lees, barrels. Not pretty..and not to be denied. It intrigues me as a northern Burgundy chardonnay. Palate more conventional. Flavorful enough. Decent acidity for 2022.it's from the north. Lasting texture. A versatile dinner wine. 91/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Nice oak. A value.' 'Full weight, smooth, rich fruit.'

2022: On Kimmeridgian limestone in Tonnerre and Molosmes north of Chablis; vines planted from 1954 to 1990; aged 8 months on lees in vats and seasoned barrels. Light gold color. A weighty combo of terroir, lees, barrels. Not pretty..and not to be denied. It intrigues me as a northern Burgundy chardonnay. Palate more conventional. Flavorful enough. Decent acidity for 2022.it's from the north. Lasting texture. A versatile dinner wine. 91/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Nice oak. A value.' 'Full weight, smooth, rich fruit.'

Est. 1590; from vineyards in the vicinity of Chablis. Substantial contrast here in the tete a tete of pinot blanc and 'pinot' chardonnay. Large and rich, especially for northern Burgundy. This vintage's Euro whites continue to please me for both freshness and amplitude. Nose won't quit. Almost 'woody'. I suppose it's lees. Yes, full and sweetly fruity for the zone. Hard to believe it's from the Chablis area. Vintage talking. Total current appeal. 91/100. Attendees liked this and agreed with me it was very chardonnay and distinct from Chablis.

40 year old chardonnay vines on steep slopes of Kimmeridgian limestone; native yeasts; aged 10 months, 10% in seasoned cooperage. Oh, boy, that ups the volume. Fills the nostrils with dry extract feel and exceptional aromatic display for the zone. Less tart than the 2021, of course. Everything is top drawer: the flavor, the body, the extract, the texture. These make up for the milder acidity to form a wine of good balance. Long finish. Wants food. Feathered rather than finny friends. 92/100.

From six parcels, in the township of Meursault. In your face oakiness, and I can't get enough of it. Complex of barrel ferment, barrel age, barrel extract, and lees stirring. Big Meursault style white burgundy all the way. Equally massive and woody on the palate. The whole nine yards. 2021 acidity adding welcome relief. Worth every penny. 95+/100. Much appreciated by attendees, comments generally in agreement with mine. Orders taken.

Vineyard above Corgoloin on very hard ground. Lees stirring, full malo. What IS that nose? Not your typical Burgundy chardonnay. More linear, more lifted. Is it the terroir talking? Or is this pinot beurot or that white sport of pinot noir? Fascinating. Must check this out on the internet. After checking, it's all chardonnay, and the terroir seems to have something special to say. Yeah, this isn't the usual take on Burgundy chardonnay. More citrusy. Don't seem to be any oak complications blurring the picture. FASCINATING! 92+/100.

Est. 1859; barrel fermented; 20% aged in new barrels, the rest 1-5 years old. Long, fine grained amalgam cork. A little more SO2 to the fore here. 2021 crisp fruit comes across nonetheless. Not a large slug of barrel influence in any Burgundian regimens respect. Shows terroir, that Corton relationship of northern Cote de Beaune chardonnays. Yes, that certain white peach quality accompanying typical apple and citrus chardonnay aspects. Agreeably round for the vintage but not wanting for acidity. Favorable cellar prospects. 93+/100. Later, sulphur cleared up completely. Huge group favorite; Wine of the Night for many attendees. Waxed even bigger over the next two days.

Est. 1859; barrel fermented; 20% aged in new barrels, the rest 1-5 years old. Wow, that's a pretty impressive slug of oak. Obscures the terroir at this early stage. I'm confident all will even out in the end. Yeah, the same drawback on the palate. Good acid for 2020. Chartron knows what he's doing, so I'm betting the oak issue will resolve itself. 92++/100.

Est. 1947; 70% pinot blanc, 30% chardonnay; 55 year old vines; half fermented in demi muids; aged 15 months in seasoned demi muids; colorful story about Pierre at kermitlynch.com. Super quality cork. Oh, yeah, this is pinot blanc over chardonnay. It's leaner and nuttier. Shows time in barrel bouquet development without much barrel extract. More oak on the palate; still, nothing in excess. Rounding, developing bottle bouquet. Another 'its own thing' bottle. Lasting vigor. 93/100.

From a site that is mostly Premier Cru and sits just up-slope from Meursault Vireux; 20 months in barrels; unfined, unfiltered. Tasted after Dupont's 2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Meursault related too, for sure. With more high elevation Auxey lift. The oak is more apparent here, and I don't mind that a bit. Kind of a shame not to spread these two gems over a couple of tastings. Still, the immediate comparison is illustrative. More acidity at the higher elevation. Oak well integrated, though some wood tannin is evident. Well balanced for the present; loads ahead for the future. 96+/100.

Vines planted 1957 and 2009; from two lieux-dits: Creux de Tillet, La Chateille; same winemaking procedure as the Saint Romain blanc. The change to a front line Cote de Beaune terroir takes up the oak to a greater degree. After all, Auxey is Meursault's neighbor. And this shows some Meursault graininess, autumnal tones. Yes, more ample in respect to terroir, fruit, and oak, with greater harmony overall. I think this is more ageworthy. These really are Taupenot amply endowed. 94+/100. Judged a notch superior to the Saint Romain by all attendees.

Est. 1632; winery still at the same site in Puligny. Aromatically shy and suggesting good village bulk. Growing up as it airs. Senses of village compactness and potential. It's all here in nascent form. Real build, material. Clinging finish, texture wise. Well in tune with the AOC. Worth cellaring. 92+/100. Continued to become more demonstrative with aeration. 'Toast and brown-spice oak aromas.' 'Egg custard.' 'Turkish Taffy.' 'Really fine stuff; plenty of flavor; long.' Many orders taken.

Lieu-dits of Les Enseignieres, Les Meix, Rue Rousseau and Les Tremblots; 100% malo; 11 months on lees in barrels, 30% new. The whole package is positive. The malo melds with the new oak tannin to make a whole greater than the sum of the parts. Lees aging has a creamy, grainy effect. Puligny calcaire terroir is all evident. On the palate, there's sense of place, and the full white Burgundy winemaking regimen. Good acidity, real length. 2018 compact and framed; real promise for cellar aging. 94+/100.

Est. 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. Ultra cool and racy 2021 style. Both briskness of vintage and depth of Chalonnais chardonnay. Plenty of sweet, ripe fruit here and dab of Chalon resin. More elevated level of acidity than the 2020. All around great bargain in Bourgogne chardonnay. 91+/100. The group preferred this to the fine 2020 thanks to its higher acidity.

Established in 1931 by 98 winegrowers of Buxy and Saint Gengoux le National. That's pretty pungent and explicit aligote. Buxy knows aligote. Nasal penetration and nippy texture are prime. Rather low key acid for aligote. That's 2020. Still, the vinosity and textural elements are fulfilling, and the price is right. Commentators noted plenty of acidity. I must admit my palate was a little off last Wed. They praised both price and typicity. 91/100.

A Beaune negociant formed by three Burgundy winemakers, including the first woman winemaker at the Hospices de Beaune and a scion of the Bouchard Pere family; 35 year old vines in limestone. Aligote acid race from the get go. The modest flavor profile of unwooded aligote. Accurate and versatile at the table. 91/100.

Vines planted in 1950 and 1986; from two lieux-dits: Sur Melin in Auxey-Duresses and Champs Pirettes in Morey-Saint-Denis. One large aligote thanks to old vines and class sites. Barrel regimen is not mentioned, but I sense it's barrel enhanced. Good body, acid, flavor and texture spread. This is a helluva serious aligote. Looks high priced for aligote, but once you taste it, the thought process changes to bargain priced white burgundy. Juicy, flavorful finish. 93+/100. Earned attendees' respect for its commanding varietal expression.

From seven plots, mostly on limestone; 30% fermented and aged in 400 liter Burgundian barrels. At opening, subdued nose. Underlying Mercurey blanc resin and the full barrel regimen, including fermentation and lees. Body of the AOC and race of the vintage. Juicy acidity builds toward the finish. Just needs some more bottle age for bouquet and flavor fulfillment. It's built to handle it. 93+/100. Or simply more aeration. Virtually everyone's Wine of the Night. 'Lovely oak, rich fruit, super acid.' 'Wonderful balance and a super long acid-laced finish.' 'Great'.

Plenty of oak, class oak, new oak. Terroir, body, grip, resin. Young, large, a bit tight yet. 2020 size, impact. Ambitious. Will take to cellaring. Tasted 5/4/23. 91+/100.

Est. 1931; an association of 120 family vineyards; 53 plots in Montagny, including in a number of Premiers Crus; unwooded. Truly. Not a toothpick evident on the nose. It's Montagny chardonnay welcoming. Showing less of Chalonnais terroir's resin than wines of the appellations north of it. The nose builds in volume with aeration. And on the palate. The original levity is now replaced by real Chalonnais body, delivery, mealworthiness. At a price of Macon Villages these days. 92+/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Elevage not mentioned on the website. However, this definitely has barrel augmentation, both time and extract wise. And that resinous Chalonnais quality. Full delivery. Yes, AOC and cooperage both talking loud and clear. 2021 acid makes it extra bright. Ready for the table. Look at the price! 93/100.

40 year old vines on a south facing clay-limestone slope yielding 3 tons per acre. Sulphur interference at opening. Seems to be some barrel influence, both extract and time wise. Chalonnaise body, if little resin. Yes, full bodied. Oak and fruit in harmony. Good acid, especially for 2019. I think this will make a good glass after aeration and/or another year or so in the cellar. 91+/100. Other than the initial sulphur on the nose, this was well liked by attendees. 'Lovely balance of oak, fruit, and acid. Long and ready.'

Wine Enthusiast 93: 'From one of Montagny's top premier cru vineyards, this is dense and textured as well as richly fruity. The fermentation followed by aging in wood have enhanced the wine's complexity, offering pear flavors, a tight texture and a flinty edge. Drink from 2021. $45.'

Vines 45-50 years old on clay-limestone; barrel fermented; age 18 months on lees without stirring in new and seasoned oak barrels. Oak to the fore. Chalonnaise sappiness too. Pushy, ambitious. Comes together nicely on the palate, plush fruit absorbing the oak. Surely not lacking in bouquet potential. Good acid for 2020. 92+/100.

From the commune La Chapelle de Guimchay, in northern Beaujolais bordering Maconnais, where the clay-limestone soil is the best suited for chardonnay in the AOC. Not very forthcoming, aromatically. Some intriguing herbal subtleties deep down in there. Great body, acid, mouthfeel. I can get along without the aromatics given the largesse of the rest of the package. Writes its own ticket on the palate. Feels more like an Auxerre chardonnay. 92/100. Aromas built up as it aired and warmed. Applauded by attendees for both nose and palate.

At Davaye; est 1928; limestone soil; aged on lees until spring. Vigorous 2021 acidity leaps right out .Green apple aroma suggests no malolactic fermentation. Though reticent at first like previous vintages, aeration coaxes forth plenty of fruit and lees contributions. Very popular with attendees for absence of malo. 'Best of series' comment recorded. 91+/100.

Est. 1926; vines average 30 years. Nice and dry, aromatically low key, classic MV take on chardonnay. Full body and texture, and more flavor than aroma. Good acidity. Textbook Macon Villages at a bargain price these days. Will stock and feature. 91/100.

2021: Single vineyard, vines average 50 years, some as old as 92 years. More oomph. Older vines and superior terroir talking. Peels extract and lees aging always give this cuvee a 'woody' aspect. Great 2021 acid. Old vines extract. Full texture. A great vintage of this. 92/100.

Down the middle, showing 22 mellowness. Good, green malic acid taste. Likely suppressed the malo this vintage. Refreshing taste indeed. Citrusy aftertaste. 91/100.