Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version - September 2019
by Dick Scheer Updated November 20, 2019
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Wednesday,September 25, 2019
WT092519-01. 17 TOKAJI FURMINT EVOLUCIO, LOVE OVER MONEY - (AUSTRIA) 11.5% Ideal character and quality. Honey and acacia./ Yes, body, character, extract, and flavor clarity of furmint. At an ideal stage too. Tells the tale. 16.7.
WT092519-03. 18 LUBANZI SWARTLAND CHENIN BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) 12.5%. Sweet and rich chenin nose. Warm stone fruit and grain aromas./ Spice and melon flavors. 16.2.
WT092519-05. 18 MCMANIS FAMILY ESTATE RIVER JUNCTION VIOGNIER - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.5%. Excels in varietal character once again. Stone fruits and flowers. Lots of lift./ Yes, a clear and classic view of viognier in a New World setting. Full emphasis of fruit over terroir. 16.6+.
WT092519-07. 18 RUSTENBERG STELLENBOSCH PETIT VERDOT ROSE - (SOUTH AFRICA) 13.5%. Class, etch, clarity./ All over again. Big time petit verdot fruit intensity and texture, even in a rose format. Fabulous give. 17.0.
WT092519-09. 17 CHIANTI, FRATELLI GRATI - (ITALY) 12.5%. Euro delineated as always. Low key black Rufina sangiovese fruit./ Taut and and marked by food-worthy acidity. Made for the table. Traditional style of Rufina. 15.9.
WT092519-10. 17 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Both flow and form. Firm fruit basis./ Acid and flow both. Well done. 16.1.
WT092519-11. 15 CHATEAU L'EGLISE SAGET, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12,5%; Eric Bouffard, proprietor; at Mourens. Wow, spread and depth of fruit. Persistent. A lovely surprise, because this was really pretty contrite a year ago./ Yes, abundant fruit and texture. This has really blossomed over the last year. 16.4.
WT092519-12. 12 DAO GRAO VASCO, VINHOS SOGRAPE - (PORTUGAL) 13%. Good and earthy and deep. Much better than the 2017 thanks to bottle age./ Great acid. Earthy, traditional Dao for food. 16.2.
WT092519-13. 18 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; 70% grenache, 30% syrah. Deep, firm 2018 fruit core. With aeration, this is now showing aromatic range and variegation./ Yes, as it airs, lots of flavor and texture interests form. All the while showing Beaurenard high styling. 16.6+.
WT092519-14. 17 CASA SILVA CUVEE CALCHAGUA VALLE DE COLCHAGUA CARMENERE - (U.S. WEST COAST) 14%; est. 1892 Alert and adroit. Good oak augments the fruit character./ Sweet and rightful carmenere characteristics, all positive here. The acid adds race. 16.5.
WT092519-15. 14 ZACA MESA ESTATE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY SYRAH - (U.S. WEST COAST) 14.2%; est. 1973; first to plant syrah in Santa Barbara County. Dark, deep, well aged. Strong, smoky, and rightful New World syrah./ Good acidity for aging, or food service now. Pretty heady fare. 16.2.
Wednesday,September 18, 2019
WT091819-01. ANJOU BLANC DOMAINE DE LA TREILLE, THIBAUT HENRION - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%; chenin blanc. Firm fruit start yields to apple and pear pulp and peel abundance./ Palate speaks firm on entry but not too firm. Has a tender core. As well as good intensity of both flavor and acidity. Long finish; Well, ultimately, this defines the genre! 16.7+.
WT091819-02. 18 COTES DE GASCOGNE BLANC, DOMAINE DES CASSAGNOLES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12.5%; 50% colombard, 25% each ugni blanc, gros manseng. Oh, this is a bright one! Colombard in control, with great gros mansang peach and padding, plus tropics deep down./ Even more complexity and intensity on the palate. This is an overachiever!. Long, balanced, and flavorful finish. 17.1.
WT091819-03. 18 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE, AZ. AGR. ANDREA FELICI - (ITALY) 13%. Crisp, stony, incisive, crackling./ Yes, fine form; firm outer layer, savory texture, and a forgiving core of fruit. Scores for both its class and its meal-worthiness. 16.7.
WT091819-04. 18 DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO PRENDO, WILHELM WALCH - (ITALY) 12.5%. Firm young, and still rather introverted on the nose./ Rallies on the palate. The body and texture of pinot grigio.. Juicy, nutty, flavorful. Just needed a little aeration followed by mouth-coaxing. 16.3+.
WT091819-05. 18 DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO PRENDO, WILHELM WALCH - (ITALY) Dry. Soft and gentle. Sweet pinot rose strawberry aroma./ Soft and gentle. Light, engaging pinot rose flavor. 15.2.
WT091819-06. 17 MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO, BADIA ALLE CORTI - (ITALY) 12%. Sweet red fruits emphasis in 2017. Firm frame, tender core. Good 17 flow./ Good acidity. Delicious fruit harmony. Light tannin to keep it serious and meal-worthy. Fine value. 16.3.
WT091819-07. 16 SAVOIE CHIGNIN MONDEUSE, DOMAINE RENE QUENARD - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 12%; Gold Medal - Savoie. Dry and close and Euro nose to start. Nice cherry and herb aromatic set grows with aeration. Real mondeuse./ Oh, the palate is spicy and vigorous. Lots of varietal character and ideal degree of ripeness. 16.6+.
WT091819-08. 15 LISBOA CHAO RIJO, ADEGA REGIONAL DE COLARES - (PORTUGAL) 12.5%; sole makers of Colares; 80% castelao, 20% tinta roriz, vines averaging 40 years. Very dark and dense./ Full and black. Old time concentration. Built to last./ Full of dry matter, extract. Not bearish though; the tannins are fine grained. Persistent fruit flavors. Big time cellar candidate. 16.9+.
WT091819-09. 18 UNION WINE CO. UNDERWOOD OREGON PINOT NOIIR - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13%. Younger and leaner than the 17 at this stage. True but terse at present./ Balanced and real, but young and close. Try again in a few months. 15.4+.
WT091819-10. 18 PARKER STATION MONTEREY-SAN LUIS OBISPO-SANTA BARBARA PINOT NOIR - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.9%; 74-17-9. Great Central Coast acidity. Sharply delineated while California abundant. Masterful winemaking./ Yes, cool and clearly stated varietal character. Ripe, racy, flavorful. 16.5.
WT091819-12. 16 ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER LES PRINCES ABBES, DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER - (FRANCE ALSACE) 13.5%. Classic Schlumberger and southern Haut Rhin power, majesty, pomaded concentration. Eminently food-worthy./ Acid coated by glycerol and light sweetness, which are foiled by great power and presence. 16.9.
Wednesday,September 11, 2019
WT091119-01. PFALZ RIESLING EXTRA TROCKEN SEKT, SEKTKELLEREI FITZ - (GERMANY) 12%. Pfalz full and admirably heavy in bottle bouquet, flavor, weight. It's no tuffi-frutti riesling sekt, to its credit. However, I would personally prefer a bit less weight and more lift.. 14.5.
WT091119-02. 16 NAHE PINOT NOIR BLANC DE NOIR, PAUL ANHEUSER - (GERMANY) 11.5%. This has lost some of its spunk. It's not longer very fruity on the nose./ The palate is sweetish and low in flavor intensity. Still useful for brunch, lunch, or picnic. 15.0.
WT091119-03. 17 RHEINHESSEN ROSE DRY, SCHAFER - (GERMANY) 12.5%. From blauer portugieser, spatburgunder, and dornfelder. Full dornfelder color./ In a bit of a trough at this stage. Not necessarily in decline. It might rally yet./ Sweetish palate. Low key varietal expressions. 15.0.
WT091119-04. 17 METTENHEIMER PINOT NOIR, SCHAFER - (GERMANY) 13%. Pretty aroma of plum, blossom, and kernel. Perfectly ripe and wholesome./ Likewise, it shows ease, balance, and come hither qualities not often found in German pinot noirs but perfectly appropriate to the genre. 16.5.
WT091119-05. 17 RHEINGAU SPATBURGUNDER TROCKEN, FRITZ ALLENDORF - (GERMANY) 13%. Drier and less inviting at this stage. A different approach; a structured approach./ Dry and vinous palate. Will likely fill out, round out with more bottle age. 14.0+.
WT091119-06. 16 OPPENHEIMER PINOT NOIR, DR. HEYDEN - (GERMANY) 13%; unfiltered. Well, this one's been barrel aged. It's very spicy, and it wears its oak and barrel sojourn very well./ Great reserve, bulk, acidity, and length. Full play of textures as well a flavors of both fruit and oak. Wow. 16.7.
WT091119-07. 17 MOSEL RIESLING FEINHERB, DR. H. THANISCH - (GERMANY) 11%. Oh, boy, the slate-borne nasal penetration and tingle of walnut husk. Both lush and vigorous./ Yes, a dazzling value that's full of grip, extract, flavor, and acidity and sweetness in balance. All around great feinherb definition. 16.8.
WT091119-08. 18 OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN RIESLING KABINETT, REVERCHON - (GERMANY) 11.5%. Dry and full Bockstein style. Lush fruit, earthy basis. Really penetrates the nostrils./ Oh, full of body, flavor, feel, richness. Again, the consummate sweet-acid harmony. Yow. 17.3.
WT091119-09. 17 BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER RIESLING KABINETT, KARP-SCHREIBER - (GERMANY) 9%. Yes, indeed, here's that body and brown earth foundation of the township's and vineyard's best. Tremendous size, acid tingle, full extract buffering the sweetness./ Yes, brown earth, walnut husk, huge extract , and light sweetness in balance. Have always loved this estate's rieslings for their exemplary terroir statement and jaw-breaker dry extract. Great to see them back. 17.8.
WT091119-10. 18 BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT, DR. H. THANISCH - (GERMANY) 8.5%. H2S blanketed yet. From youth, or travel? Hermetic and reduced under screwcap. I noticed Derek go back for a second sniff, and I suspect this is why./ Nothing left to do but air and age this one. Same issue as most J. J. Prum rieslings when first released, yet I've seen the wine press mention it only on occasion. 14.0++.
WT091119-11. 14 BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING KABINETT, DR. H. THANISCH - (GERMANY) 7.5%. Big and extract laden. Clearly majestic, almost aloof./ Huge concentration of honeyed richness and even botrytis. Complex. Loaded. 18.4.
WT091119-12. 17 PIESPORTER GOLDTROPHCHEN RIESLING SPATLESE, BOLLIG-LEHNERT - (GERMANY) 8%. There's still a little sulphur edge here under its hermetic screwcap. I've sampled the 2015 on several occasions lately, and that's completely resolved, the wine magnificent./ Well, that's already resolved on the palate, and the wine has peachy roundness of vineyard and vintage, with good padding. 16.6
WT091119-14. 16 RHEINHESSEN SILVANER TROCKEN, DR. HEYDEN - (GERMANY) 12.5%. Dry and nutty silvaner that's holding well. No, I think it's even improved since the last time I tasted it months back./ Good grip, texture, and dryness for versatility at the table. Popular with the group; several orders taken. 16.5.
WT091119-15. 17 NACKENHEIMER RIESLING TROCKEN, BINZ liter - (GERMANY) 12%. Another dry and mealworthy Rheinhessen, this time a riesling./ Yes, aromatically understated, well textured, and ready for the table. 16.3.
WT091119-16. 17 RHEINGAU RIESLING DRY SAVE WATER DRINK RIESLING, FRITZ ALLENDORF - (GERMANY) 12.5%. Earth, golden grains, and dried citrus peel./ Great acid vigor. Really sings on the palate. Definitely in the Allendorf house style I remember from decades back. 16.5.
WT091119-17. 15 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING DRY, SCHAFER - (GERMANY) 12%. Notably Rheinhessen earthy./ High trocken. The sweetness is more evident perhaps due to mild acidity. 15.9.
WT091119-18. 16 OPPENHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT DRY, DR. HEYDEN - (GERMANY) 11.5%. Well, actually the label reads 'dry style'. Because this turns out round, sweet fruited, gentle, and inviting. And right./ Yes, cornucopia of the harvest: ripe stone fruits and warm nuts and grains. Talks Oppenheimer. 16.5.
WT091119-19. 17 SCHLOSSBOCKELHEIMER KONIGSFELS RIESLING KABINETT, PAUL ANHEUSER - (GERMANY) 9%. This has really progressed since the July Wine Club tasting. After thrilling to the 2012 and 2015 once they had more bottle age, the 2017 came across pretty shy in July. Now, it's really blossomed. Lots more fruit vigor and the stony distinction of Mittel Nahe's best sites./ Yeah, sweetness tempered by vigor, acid, grip, race, all. 16.9.
WT091119-20. 14 OPPENHEIMER SACKTRAGER RIESLING SPATLESE, DR HEYDEN - (GERMANY) 9.5%. Showing a nutty bottle bouquet now but no terpene pininess./ Spatlese sweet, Rheinhessen mellow. A proper expression of age, village, and quality grade. 16.0.
Wednesday,September 4, 2019
WT 090419-01. 18 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE LA PEPIE, LA PEPIERE - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%. Pungent. Still a little sulphur to shed. Air it out.. Nice and mossy underneath./.Yeah, still some SO2 grip. Decant vigorously. Classic green botanicals and terrarium evident. 15.9+.
WT 090419-02. 18 SAVOIE APREMONT LA COMBELLE, FAMILLE RICHEL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 12%; all jacquere. Fresh, upbeat, scented of green fruits./ Racy, juicy. Vigorous texture and taste. Lasting finish. 16.8.
WT 090419-03. 18 TOURAINE SAUVIGNON LE COEUR DE LA REINE, DOMAINE DE LA ROCHETTE - (FRANCE LOIRE) 13%. Rather coy. Maybe sulphur masked./ Yeah, in a kind of a shell when first poured. With aeration, aromas and flavors come forth. Nice passion fruit aftertaste. 16.1+.
WT 090419-04. 18 SANCERRE, CHATEAU DE THAUVENAY - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12.5%. Seems to be some SO2 here also. Dry and delicate style./ Understated in youth or travel or sulphur suppression. Again, aeration helps. 16.3+.
WT 090419-05. 18 MACON-CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE GERALD TALMARD - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Sulphur impact again. Confined./ Cool, medium bodied. Young and somewhat sulphur bound. Of the first five whites, only the Savoie is fully expressive at this stage. Give the rest of them a few more weeks in bottle, or decant vigorously. 16.0+.
WT 090419-06. 16 SAVOIE CHIGNIN LA MONTAGNE, DOMAINE RENE QUENARD - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 11.5%; all jacquere. Older now. I prefer these younger, like wine number 2 above./ More vitality on the palate. Still, in its golden years. 15.8.
WT 090419-07. 16 CAMPANIA FALANGHINA, ROCCA DEL DRAGONE - (ITALY) 12.5%. Sweet nose of fruits and nuts. Waxy. Vital./ Yes, continues to satisfy. The nuttiness of age is positive. 16.2.
WT 090419-09. ATTICA RETSINA, CAVINO - (GREECE) 11.5%. Good, lightly resinous nose./ Yes, it has an appealing measure of pine resin taste and an appropriately bitter finish. Real Retsina character. 16.0.
WT 090419-10. 18 FRANCAIS RAISINS GAULOIS, DOMAINE M. LAPIERRE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Extremely sweet smelling and full of gamay character. Really intense nose./ Appropriately medium bodied. Full fruit and varietal character. Good acidity. Lapierre makes thorough wines. 16.6.
WT 090419-11. 16 CHATEAU DU PAVILLON CUVEE RESERVEE, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; 90% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon. Oh, full of merlot sweet fruit and Cotes de Bordeaux intensity. Really sweet smelling for 2016./ Full fruit and full tannin in harmony. 16.6+.
WT 090419-13. 16 DOURO VALLADO, QUINTA DO VALLADO - (PORTUGAL) 13.5%; touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz. Oh, deep, dark, black fruited, spicy, vigorous./ Full bodied and well wooded./ Fine balance of fruit, oak, terroir, and tannin. Yes. 16.7+.
WT 090419-14. 17 VACQUEYRAS, DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 15%; unfiltered. Black, large, spicy, rangy. One big Vacqueyras./ Powerful, mouth filling. Comes right at you. Defines the house style. 16.7+.
WT 090419-15. PATRAS MAVRODAFNE DEUS, CAVINO - (GREECE) 15%. Sweet and raisiny. Christmas pudding. Yes./ Oh, yeah. Sweetness, power, spice. Better than ever. Bargain. 17.2.