Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- September, 2013
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Wednesday, September 25, 2013
WT092513-01. 12 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, DOMAINE DE LA PEPIERE - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%; Marc Ollivier & Remi Branger, owners. Extremely bright and aromatic. Full, early fall apple aromas. No peel./ Perfumed of apple and undergrowth. Acid and flavor concentration in spades. Incredible. 16.8.
WT092513-02. 12 COTES DE GASCOGNE SAUVIGNON - COLOMBARD, DOMAINE DE BALLADE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12%. Deep, deep, haunting perfumes of iris, citrus, grass, and botanicals./ Lovely combo of sauvignon gooseberry and colombard green melon. Tart quince note too. Both lush and astringent. Great acid. Peachy aftertaste. 16.6.
WT092513-03. 12 VENETO PINOT GRIGIO RIALTO, CANTINA COLLI EUGANEI - (ITALY) 12.5%. Correct and subtle varietal character. Nice apple without peel. Gentle./ Soft and mellow. Will be popular. Almost sweet feeling thanks to light glycerol. Unique. Good acid tang at the end keeps it honest and refreshing. 16.3.
WT092513-04. 12 CHABLIS VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE SEGUINOT-BORDET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%; since 1590. Oh, deep and saturated old vines stuff. Seems some wood toast. May just be the old vines play./ Great acid, grip, calcaire terroir, texture, and flavor of Chablis chardonnay. Wine of place. A giant for a ‘tout court’. Premier Cru material. 17.4+.
WT092513-05. 12 VENTOUX BLANC CUVEE DES 3 MESSES BASSES, VIGNERONS DU MONT VENTOUX - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 13%; 40% each clairette, grenache blanc, 20% bourboulenc. Opens with a subtle varietal set of aromas. Fills with aeration to more a more dramatic and beautiful nose. Emphasis on apple and pear./ Rich, smooth with glycerol, full. Subtle fruit and vinosity. Powerful, mouthfilling textural presence wants food. 16.3.
WT092513-06. 10 YEALANDS MARLBOROUGH - CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT NOIR - (NEW ZEALAND) 13.5%; Babydoll sheep weed the vineyard; carbon-zero certified winery. Deep, special, and serious Central Otago material here. Subtle oak. Riper and more layered than many a straight Marlborough pinot. Sweet plum, cherry./ Rich, broad, sweet. Cherry, plum, tea. Well padded. Melted tannins. A player. 17.0.
WT092513-07. 10 CHATEAU LA GRANGE CLINET GRANDE RESERVE, COTES DE BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; at St. Caprais; 60% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc; unfiltered. Sweet and suave and mellow claret. No 2010 resistance. Claret red fruit and vinosity. No green, no game./ Well, some peels tannin and some press edge. Opposite of the nose. Tough-guy 2010 palate. 15.8+.
WT092513-08. 11 ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS ESTATE ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) 13.9%; est. 1962. Good balance of wood and sweet fruit of ALV ripeness. 2011 levity. Very well crafted./ Wood vanilla still to the fore. Toast too. Plenty ripe and sweet fruit. Some wood tannin. Give it time for its wood elements to settle in. 16.4+.
WT092513-09. 11 MAREMMA SANGIOVESE BONIZIO, CECCHI - (ITALY) 13.5%. Sleek, sweet, correct Maremma sangiovese. Dried fruit./ Juicy and herbaceous. Maremma cool breeze. Works. 15.6.
WT092513-10. 11 BARBERA D’ASTI ALBERA, ARALDICA - (ITALY) 14.5%. Lovely red violet color./Engaging aroma of wild cherry with violets overtone. Michigan cherry juice, clear and pure. One of the best vintages of this./ Sweet and lovely. Cool floral reduction. Sooo enticing. Great sweet-acid balance. Well balanced in all respects, in fact. Fine tannin. Classic Asti style of barbera. Super value. 16.9.
WT092513-11. 12 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DE LA TOURADE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14.2%. Cool, with positive reductive leanings. Delicate, subtle, elegant. Good vintage of this./ Wow! Full garrigue flowers and herbs. Flashy and beautiful. Love the cool years here. Excellent. 16.9+.
WT092513-12. 11 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES CUVEE BEATRICE, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; all syrah. Deep, rich raspberry syrah. Much brighter and less closed up than the 2010. Oh, sweet and lovely raspberry puree focus./ Even better on the palate. White pepper chimes in. Racy acidity. Fine tannin. 17.0+.
WT092513-13. 12 VOUVRAY, CHAMPALOU - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12.5%. Dry and quince like. Classic. Lime too. And apple./ Wow! Grip! Extract! Just barely sec tendre. Continuing the trend toward dryness and extract saturation here. 17.4+.
WT092513-14. 12 FRANCAIS SUD-OUEST GROS MANSENG - SAUVIGNON BLANC DOUX, LIONEL OSMIN - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 11%; Gold Medal - Paris. Both rich and racy as usual. Peach and citrus./ Sweetness balanced by acidity. Really racy and delicious. For Pac Rim food. 17.1+.
WT092513-15. 03 SERRIG HERRENBERG RIESLING BEERENAUSLESE, WEINGUT BERT SIMON - (GERMANY) 7.5%. Honey, flowers, resin, tea, tobacco. Crisp Saar styling./ Oh, boy! Granola, honey, tea, latakia. Both fruit ripeness and botrytis at play. BA sweet. Great acid of Saar, even in a hot year. Good now and later. 17.8+.
Wednesday, September 18, 2013
WT091813-01. 12 ALTO ADIGE PINOT BIANCO, CANTINA TERLANO - (ITALY) 13%. Full bodied and full of character. Ideal for grape and zone./ Full flavor, body, texture. As abundant as it gets in Alto Adige pinot blanc. 17.0+.
WT091813-02. 12 VENEZIE TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO CANTINA RIFF, ALOIS LAGEDER - (ITALY) 12%. Full apple and peel aroma. Both zingy and pithy. Great value./ Full grigio peels extract flavor and texture. Cool climate lift. A winner all around. 16.4.
WT091813-03. 12 CASTILLA Y LEON VERDEJO CASA MARIA, AGRICOLA CASTELLANA - (ITALY) 12%. Bright and racy verdejo character. Like sauvignon blanc with dashes of spice and tonic extras. Full and stimulating./ Good, racy acidity. Full flavor. Flowers and botanicals. 16.4.
WT091813-04. 10 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY. THIERRY MATROT half bottle - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Reduced to start under screwcap. This cuvee is always that way upon opening. It blows off with aeration, and then the show begins. Oh, boy, the terroir, the body, the peach, the calcaire. A Cote d’Or chardonnay that has it all./ Rich in fruit and barrel influences: barrel fermentation, lees interaction, barrel aging. Well textured.
The complete Cote d’Or chardonnay package. 17.1+.
WT091813-05. 11 CIRCA ESTATE BELL’S GREAT NORTHERN LEELANAU PENINSULA WHITE - (U.S.) 12.44%; made for Larry Bell by his brother David. Lightly fragrant, floral. Grip, posture, depth, extract. Clear riesling character./ Fine texture, grip. Astute cool climate riesling qualities. Some detect a dash of a hybrid variety, perhaps cayuga. 16.8.
WT091813-06. 10 SAINTSBURY GARNET CARNEROS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) 13.5%; since 1983. Full, with total pinot noir cherry and peel. Bolder than the 09, with more peels extracts./ Cherry and Carneros cranberry and citrus. A thorough Carneros pinot noir with 2010 bracing. 16.7+.
WT091813-07. 11 OC CABERNET SAUVIGNON VILLA DES ANGES, JACQUELINE MENARD DE GINESTOUS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; from northwest of Beziers, Languedoc; winemaker Jeff Carrel. Rather shrill and underripe compared to the 09 and 10./ Yes, peels and green fruit. 14.0.
WT091813-08. 11 COTES DU RHONE GRENACHE CUVEE BASTIEN, DOMAINE DE CHATEAUMAR - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 13.9%; 3-generation family estate near Orange; single-vineyard old vines grenache. Greener than 10. Too bad./ Soft, padded grenache. Medium bodied. A shadow of the 10. 15.7+.
WT091813-09. 11 LANGHE NEBBIOLO MARGHE, AZ. AG. DAMILANO - (ITALY) 14%. Well, this is much sweeter fruited and more accessible than the 10 or 09. Displays nebbiolo tar and rose./ Soft and rich and ripe. Plenty of fruit, especially cherry. New appellation and approach for this cuvee. I’m all for it. Yes! 16.8.
WT091813-10. 10 MARIETTA ESTATE SONOMA ZINFANDEL - (u.s.U.S.) 15.3%; est. 1978 in Alexander Valley. Deep, black, powerful, singed, totally extracted./ Lush, sweet fruit. So soft and seductive for current enjoyment. Lovely bouquet and texture development. Whoa! 17.9.
WT091813-11. 07 STARRY NIGHT OLD VINE NERVO STATION VINEYARD ALEXANDER VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 14.4%; from blocks planted in 1896 and 1934. Ripe, ready, ALV powerful. Total force. Almost late harvest like. Deep bouquet of ripe fruit and time in barrel development./ Rich and well developed from barrel and bottle age. 2007 warmth and generosity. Grand. Total. 18.5.
WT091813-12. GILL’S PIER JUST UNLEASHED LEELANAU PENINSULA RED - (U.S.) 12%; 48% regent, 38% dornfelder, 14% lemberger; Gold Medal - 2013 MI Wine Competition. Sweet, but leaner than the Gold Medal cuvee. Likely based on 11 whereas the winner is from 12. Seems not the same cuvee. Good regent sweet fruit display./ Good and sweet, but lacks the winner’s flair, extract. Missing the cabernet franc and frontenac listed on
the MWC form. 16.1.
Wednesday, September 11, 2013
WT091113-03. 10 CHATEAU DE CAMARSAC, BORDEAUX SAUVIGNON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12.5%; owned by the Lurton family. Vigorous. Lots of mineral. Holding well./ Again, vital. Good lemon-lime peel character. 15.9.
WT091113-04. 09 CHATEAU DE CAMARSAC, BORDEAUX SAUVIGNON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12.5%; owned by the Lurton family. Grainier. More than a year more advanced due to the warmer growing conditions and consequent lower acidity./ Yes, the mild acidity of 09. Actually, this works on the palate quite nicely. 15.3.
WT091113-06. 09 SANNIO FALANGHINA FALANGO, COLLI DI CASTELFRANCI - (ITALY) 12.5%. Falanghina perfume turned attractively golden with age. Nice./ Again, plenty of falanghina aromatic attributes, including peach, pineapple, flowers. Good acid too. 15.9.
WT091113-07. 10 LORING DURELL VINEYARD SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) 14.9%. Frank and powerful. Plenty of oak, lees effect, malo, and sweet ripe fruit. In the style of the Seventies ‘bigger is better’ rage, just as Brian Loring intends to make it, because he likes chardonnay that way./ Rich oak toast and ripe, warm, robust fruit. Total period-piece chardonnay. 17.1.
WT091113-10. 10 CHATEAU HAUT MAGINET, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; Vignobles Jolivet at Soussac. More fruit showing now than months back. Still dry and peelsy./ Yes, still very terse. Continue to age it. 14.0+.
WT091113-11. 10 YECLA MONASTRELL, CASTILLO DEL BARON - (SPAIN) 13.5%. Rich southern mourvedre. Spicy and sweetly fruity./ Yes, rich enough fruit. Some dry tannin in the background deprives it of a padded feel. That will melt away over the coming months. Decent flavor intensity. Good. 15.9+.
WT091113-12. 09 LACRIMA DI MORRO D’ALBA, ENZO MECELLA - (ITALY) 12.5%. Good and sweet with floral suggestions. Brisk in back, so both sweet and sassy. Lovely perfume of the varietal./ Yes, and some bay-laurel and balsamic aspects too. Potpourri spice set. Talks the varietal talk. 16.5.
WT091113-13. 11 MCMANIS FAMILY CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 14%. Sweet and nice. The East Bay origin gives good ripeness in cool 2011./ An attractive wood toast and caramel augmentation to the fulfilled fruit statement. 16.2.
WT091113-14. 11 RHEINGAU RIESLING LEITZ OUT, JOSEF LEITZ - (GERMANY) 10.5%. Good golden grain and citrus peel Rheingau riesling character. Some bouquet forming./ Yes, the golden tones of region and mid age. Good terroir statement. 16.0.
WT091113-15. 06 CHATEAU BELINGARD COMTE DE BOSREDON, MONBAZILLAC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13%; 75% semillon, 15% sauvignon gris, 10% muscadelle. Gathering a honeyed bouquet. More about sweetness than botrytis./ Yes, sweet and honeyed. Peach and pit. Marzipan note. Good acidity to foil its considerable richness. This will continue to age well. 16.8+.
Wednesday, September 4, 2013
WT090413-01. 12 GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA. ULACIA - (SPAIN) 11%; from hondarrabi zuri and hondarrabi beltza. Crisp and neat, with light apple and lime aromatics. Pleasing and accurate./ Still a bit enclosed, perhaps due to recent shipment. Needs a few weeks to gather its full aroma and texture profiles. 16.3+.
WT090413-02. 12 RUEDA VERDEJO-VIURA, PALACIO DE VIVERO - (SPAIN) 12%; 60-40. Verdejo citrus and spice. Fresh, youthful./ Understated in youth. Smooth and mild on the approach. Will appreciate a few more weeks’ aging to realize its possibilities and become as attractive as the 2011, which was first sampled at a later stage. 15.6+.
WT090413-03. 12 CHATEAU FONTAINE WOODLAND LEELANAU PENINSULA WHITE - (U.S.) 100% auxerrois. Fresh and young. Good auxerrois body. Fills and tingles nostrils. Good apple aroma../ Creamy varietal texture. Softer acid than the 2011; this is a riper vintage. Will gain more textural play as the weeks pass. 16.4+.
WT090413-04. 12 VALDADIGE PINOT GRIGIO ALTANUTA, JOSEF BRIGL - (ITALY) 12.5%. Full and good as usual. Yes, this delivers. Volume, weight, and full aromatic spread and intensity./ Smooth and creamy. Ideal weight, balance, all around composition. 16.8.
WT090413-05. 12 DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CLARKSBURG CHENIN BLANC - (U.S.) 12.5%; 40th anniversary vintage. Dry and cool. Textured and deep. Quince. Full and aromatic. Would make a great dry Vouvray./ Yes, truly dry, not sec tendre. Full of flavor, texture. Sense of power despite the modest alcohol content. Boy, this has it all. One of the best in the series. 17.0.
WT090413-06. 12 COUSINO-MACUL ISIDORA MAIPO VALLEY SAUVIGNON GRIS - (CHILE) 13.5%. Fully revealing. Aroma of mandarin orange. Full volume, depth, power. Insistent New World sauvignon gris attitude. Nothing held back./ Mild acid balanced by full power. Calls for food. 16.3.
WT090413-07. 12 MCMANIS FAMILY CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) 13.5%; fourth generation. Fresh, full, nicely ripe. Very friendly, fruity 2012 nose. Fine power, sweetness, pinot character. Yes./ Sweet fruit and oak vanillin. Needs time for the oak to settle in more. Has all the components it needs. 16.6+.
WT090413-08. 11 CHATEAU ST. JEAN CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) 13.8%. Fresh, cool, crisp. Light reduction of the pleasing, positive sort. Clear, cool vintage pinot statement./ Tasty, rich pinot palate. Smooth. Gamy, feral pinot aspects. Great acidity. Juicy, full. Preferred by the group to the McManis. More Burgundian, I suppose. 16.6.
WT090413-09. 12 DOLCETTO D’ALBA COLOMBE, RENATO RATTI - (ITALY) 12.5%. Oh, sweet and ripe, lovely and classic./ Best ever. Lovely flowers, peels leafiness in an advantageous way. Tea leaf. Cool and racy, Super fine tannin and texture. Wow! Plus it will improve. 16.6+.
WT090413-10. 12 BARBERA DEL MONFERRATO MARAIA, MARCHESI DI BAROLO - (ITALY) 13%; maraia means ‘little rascal’; 2011 was Wine Spectator Top 100. Yeah, fresh, bright. Barbera black fruit, tar, black cherry, black pepper./ Yes, this is a complete young Monferrato barbera with textural richness and cherry fruit. Cool, concentrated, positively succulent. Better than the 2011. 16.6.
WT090413-11. 12 YECLA MONASTRELL VINAS VIEJAS, BODEGAS CASTANO - (SPAIN) 13.5%; from the estate’s high altitude limestone vineyards. Open, sweet, classic warm climate mourvedre. Vintage and high altitude coolness and framing./ Yeah, sweet with fruit. Mourvedre cool, ‘bitters’ character. Great texture. 16.4+.
WT090413-12. 11 COTES DU RHONE VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE DE L’ESPIGOUETTE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAY) 14%; 70% grenache, 10% each syrah, mourvedre, 5% each carignan, cinsault. Oh, bright and creamy berry, peppercorn, garrigue, sweet grenache fruit./ Mourvedre shows its cool, purple fruit contribution. Balanced and complete presentation in tune with this largely consistent series. 16.8.
WT090413-13. 09 BAROLO, AZ. AG. RIO FAVA - (ITALY) 14.5%. Reduced. Needs time. A warm-spice aspect. Fruit sweetness of 09./ Spicy. Chutney spices. Unique. Sweet. Still disoriented. The 08 is settled in. See again in a few months. 16.2+.
WT090413-14. 11 NIERSTEINER OELBERG RIESLING KABINETT, WEINGUT EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) 12.5%; since 1693. Apple, nectarine, tangerine. Good and crisp. Nose suggests good balance of sweetness and acidity./ Sweet and soft Rheinfront fruit balanced by acid and extract. Great finish of dried apricot. 16.8.
WT090413-15. 11 NIERSTEINER OELBERG RIESLING KABINETT, WEINGUT EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) 10%. Sweet and spicy ortega. Young and still uncomplicated./ Oh, sweet and succulent. Tropical fruit flavors. Adorable. 17.5+.