Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- June 2017
by Dick Scheer Updated July 26 2017
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Wednesday, June 28, 2017
WT062817-1. 16 SANCERRE COTE DES EMBOUFFANTS, DOMAINE ROGER NEVEU - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12.5%; at Verdigny; on limestone. Shy. With light SO2 yet./ Soft and sweetish on entry. Some zing at the end. More to come. 16.5+.
WT062817-2. 16 SANCERRE LA CHATELLENIE, DOMAINE JOSEPH MELLOT - (FRANCE LOIRE) 13%; on silex, clay, limestone. Fresh, and well delineated. Fine boned, tensile, precise. Pleasing sauvignon citrus focus. Well tailered./ Softness on entry evolves to a tangy, crisp, classic calcareous follow through. Very good form and presentation. 16.7+.
WT062817-3. 16 SANCERRE LES GRIOTTES, DOMAINE GUENEAU - (FRANCE LOIRE) 13%; at Chavignol; on caillottes. Close, with light SO2. Premature./ Yes, closed up. Rallies with a tangy aftertaste. Not ready for prime time. 16.2+.
WT062817-4. 16 SANCERRE LA REINE BLANCHE, DOMAINE JEAN REVERDY - (FRANCE LOIRE) 13%; at Verdigny; dispersed vineyards on silex, caillottes, and terres blanches. To start, SO2 closes the nose down and gives a sharpness./ Aeration works wonders, and the palate boasts fetching sweet-tart ying-yang, and flavors of new mown grass and grapefruit. Soft landing. 16.0+/16.9+.
WT062817-5. 16 SANCERRE, DOMAINE HIPPOLYTE REVERDY - (FRANCE LOIRE) 11-14%; at Chaudoux-Verdigny; dispersed vineyards on clay, Kimmeridgian limestone. Lots of calcaire. Singular./ Suave, burnished texture. Lightly sweet citrus flavor. Yes, fine textured, well balanced, and lengthy. 17.0+.
WT062817-6. 16 WYNCROFT MARLAND LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE SAUVIGNON BLANC - SEMILLON - (U.S. MICHIGAN) 86 - 14. Plump semillon, rangy sauvignon aromatic profile. Just the right balance and tete a tete exchange between the two./ Yes, both padding and zip. Each varietal’s flavor profile expressed accurately and harmoniously. 16.9+.
WT062817-7. 16 DOGLIANI DOLCETTO SAN LUIGI, AZ. AGR. PECCHENINO - (ITALY) 13.5%. Much more appeal in youth than was the 2015. Full, snappy cherry, licorice, tar, peel./ Medium bodied; good dolcetto weight and fluidity. Some peels tannin and astringency yet. 16.3+.
WT062817-8. 15 BOURGUEIL CUVEE ALOUETTES, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%; est. 1822. Reduced yet. 2015 dense./ Rightful size and fulfillment of 2015. But still reduced. That won’t likely bother the Europhiles. 14.5++.
WT062817-9. 15 VENTISQUERO ROOT 1 MAIPO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) 13.5%; ungrafted vines. Classic Maipo cabernet aromas of red and black currants. Yes./ Wood applications enter the picture on the palate. Maipo cabernet character confirmed. Not a lot of depth, but what’s to complain about the price? Good value. 16.3.
WT062817-10. 15 SEAN MINOR 4B PASO ROBLES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.5%. Paso fruit warmth without pruniness. An attractively moderate approach in 2015, including a sensible alcohol level. Deepens and persists as it airs./ Yes, sweet and open hearted. One of the most appealing in the series at an early age. Wine of place too. 16.6.
WT062817-11. 15 NAHE DORNFELDER TROCKEN, ST. ANTONIUSKELLEREI - (GERMANY) 13%. Good, clear, direct, and accomplished varietal ID and exemplary ripeness in this sunny vintage. None of dornfelder’s sometimes funky, herbal reductiveness. A fine deal too./ Even handed approach, surely tasty, dry but not austere. Good concentration to accompany full fare. Fruity aftertaste. A hard-working dornfelder. 16.3.
WT062817-12. 15 NAHE DORNFELDER, ST. ANTONIUSKELLEREI - (GERMANY) 10%. Another clear and true representative. Here though there’s still some H2S prophylactic due to lower alcohol and higher sweetness./ And it is sweet for sure. That dampens the varietal flavor. Pretty good overall, and will improve with aeration. 15.8+.
WT062817-13. 15 COTES DU RHONE LES TROIS COURONNES, CELLIER DES TROIS COURONNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; 80% grenache; 20% syrah. Plenty of sweetness and oomph. The best vintage yet; even better than the 2010. Body, texture, aromatics, largesse./ Deep, sweet, and complete. Great flavor, texture, all. Plenty of alcohol and glycerol smoothness and amplitude also. Wow, a deal! 16.7+.
WT062817-14. 14 COTES DU RHONE RESERVE, DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; 55% grenache, 25% syrah, 10% carignan, 5% each cinsault, mourvedre. Though the vintage is a cool one, Janasse always makes a large scale wine. This one’s deep, very ripe, and powerful. Huge, actually./ Sweet, giving, spicy, fully ripe fruit. Turns up the volume. Reserve indeed. More like a Villages than a basic CdR. 17.0+.
WT062817-15. 10 MUSTER BAROSSA VALLEY MOURVEDRE - (AUSTRALIA) 14.2%; est. 1859. Sweetness and maturity of a 7 year old Barossa admirably expressed. Not much traditional varietal character. It’s more about bottle bouquet at this age./ Yes, Barossa sweet fruit surpasses mourvedre’s tendency toward reductiveness. A big dinner wine with a big bouquet. It won’t fall flat soon, but it’s certainly ready for meat from the barbie. 16.6.
WT062817-16. DUNKERTONS DRY HEREFORDSHIRE CIDER half liter - (FRUIT) 6.9%; organic. A bit organic funky./ Run of the mill tart apple stuff. 15.8.
WT062817-17. DUNKERTONS BLACK FOX HERFORDSHIRE CIDER half liter - (FRUIT) 6.9%; organic. Green glints./ More like a classic cider./ Yes, medium dry and proper. 16.2.
Wednesday, June 21, 2017
WT062117-1. 16 COTES DE GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DES CASSAGNOLES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12%. Some fermentation remainders yet. When will these 2016 French whites and roses come to fruition? Especially the ones under screwcap./ Yes, not ready for prime time. True grit. 16.0++.
WT062117-2. 16 VENETO BIANCO COLLE DEI TIGLI, CANTINE LENOTTI - (ITALY) 12.5%; half each cortese, garganega. Young. The full varietal aromatic range plus wisps of banana and Bazooka./ Rich but premature. 16.1++.
WT062117-3. 16 LANGHE ARNEIS, CASCINA BONGIOVANNI - (ITALY) 13.5%; 100% varietal. Zing, edge, lithe varietal character. Rightly positioned at this youthful stage./ Oh my, a creamy vanilla custard taste. Proper, lightly coated fruit acidity. Going places. 16.6+.
WT062117-4. 16 COTES DE GASCOGNE ROSE PLAISIR, DOMAINE DES CASSAGNOLES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13%. Hoppy yet. Too young./ Very dry. Will it round out? Lack of flavor at this stage. 15.0++.
WT062117-5. 16 TAVEL CANTO PERDRIX, DOMAINE MEJAN-TAULIER - (FRANCE ROSE) 13.5%; 60% grenache, 30% cinsault, 5% mourvedre, 3% syrah, 2% clairette. Fresh and coming to fruition. Light banana ferment residual, overwhelmed by large and present Tavel fruit blast./ Yes, big time. A keeper to take into winter. 16.7+.
WT062117-6. 15 TAVEL CANTO PERDRIX, DOMAINE MEJAN-TAULIER (20% off this price) - (FRANCE ROSE) 13.5%; 70% grenache, 20% cinsault, 5% mourvedre, 3% syrah, 2% clairette. Attractively mature now. A good dinner rose./ Vinous and nicely developed. Keeps working. 16.0.
WT062117-7. 15 CHATEAU CAMPOT LAFONT, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%. Once again, this claret is all accomplished from the get go. Sweet and spicy merlot-cabernet display./ Yes, lovely, balanced, fulfilled fruit presentation. No herb. 16.5+.
WT062117-8. 11 PYREN VINEYARD BROKEN QUARTZ PYRENEES SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) 12.9%. A fine and elegant expression of a cool vintage and high altitude vineyards. Very bright, crisp, charming fruit perfumes./ Oh, special. Even violets in its fruit-flower complex. All accomplished. Very smooth-textured accomplishment at age six. Quite the opposite of the sweet and strong Barossa shiraz sort. 17.5.
WT062117-9. 15 CROZES HERMITAGE EQUIS DOMAINE DES LISES, MAXIME GRAILLOT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 13.5%. Oh, richness, fruit sweetness of 15. Raspberry, white pepper, smoked meat; attributes rarely found in syrah from outside Rhone Septentrionale. / Yes, full flavor-range confirmation. The whole spectrum. Good balance and very fine tannic grip that ensure stay power for bouquet development. Window on a great northern Rhone vintage. The group loved it! 17.2+.
WT062117-10. 12 BADEN PINOT NOIR DRY, WEINGUT SALWEY - (GERMANY) 13%; Wine Enthusiast 94/100. And deservedly so. Fresh, cool, true Baden pinot. Very, very bright toned./ Yes, full pinot flavor in a cool climate setting. No herb, just race. Good choice with salmon. 17.1.
WT062117-11. 12 PAESTUM AGLIANICO CORLETO, AZ. AGR. SAN SALVATORE - (ITALY) 14.5%. Full, classic, sweet, singed fruit. Right on track development at age 4+. Deep and tarry. 2012 quality and character./ Full fruit, acid, structure, balance. All it could be at this stage. 17.3+.
WT062117-12. 10 TABURNO AGLIANICO RISERVA D’ERASMO, AG. AGR. NIFO SARRAPOCHIELLO - (ITALY) 14.5%. Good development and good constitution. Fine bouquet. What a great grape variety! Vigor and breadth of barrel and bottle age. Sweet to the core./ Yes, nice varietal range, bouquet range, texture, balance, all. Bargain price. 17.2+.
Wednesday, June 14, 2017
WT061417-1. 16 VINHO VERDE CAVADO VALE DO HOMEM, QUINTAS DO HOMEM - (PORTUGAL) 13%; est. 1985; 70% loureiro, 30% arinto. Fizzy. Banana and apple blossom still. Premature./ Again. Too early like so many of the 16 roses to date. The screwcap is such an hermetic closure that the wines often need a few more weeks/months of bottle aging before fulfillment. 15.0++.
WT061417-2. 16 BARDOLINO CHIARETTO, AZ. AGR. RONCA DI RONCA MASSIMO - (ITALY) 11%. Fuller color than the 15. Fresh, fizzy, berried. Cherry-berry aroma. Ready to enjoy./ Sweet strawberry taste. Gentle, easy-flowing quaffer. 16.5.
WT061417-4. 16 ROSE D’ANJOU LE PETIT SAINT LOUIS, CHATEAU DE MONTGUERET - (ROSE) 11%. Lift, body, freshness. Berries and blossoms./ Fresh, crisp. Apples and flowers. Strawberry; cotton candy. Near dry. First Anjou rose in some time. These used to be the market’s staple rose. Drier than the previous norm. Bravo. 16.6.
WT061417-6. 15 CHINON, CHATEAU COUDRAY-MONTPENSIER - (FRANCE LOIRE) 13.5%. Fresh raspberry and seed. Peppercorn edge. Deep and meaty./ Yeah, peppered meat. Light and customary herbal note. All around full and satisfying, as it has proved in past vintages. 16.6+.
WT061417-7. 14 CAHORS, CHATEAU HAUT-MONPLAISIR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13%; 100% malbec grown on the third terrace above the Lot; unfined, unfiltered. Significant black fruit and spice showing. Plenty of material; unfined and unfiltered residual. Sweet fruit for young 14 Cahors. A sense of barrel aging without overt woodiness./ Yes, rich and full of body and matter, berry and spice. Lingers. The whole package. Better than the admirable 2012. 17.0+.
WT061417-8. 14 CHIANTI CLASSICO, COLI - (ITALY) 13%; est. 1926. Sweet, dark, and spicy. Especially so for cool 2014./ Balanced, fruity, rightly dry. Fine tannins. Boy, we’ve had a run of attractive, astonishingly price-worthy Chianti Classicos lately. 16.6+.
WT061417-9. 14 LISBOA MAR DE LISBOA, QUINTA DE CHOCAPALHA - (PORTUGAL) 13%; 40% roriz, 29% touriga nacional, 20% touriga franca, 11% syrah. Dark and sweet. Lightly reduced yet. Poised, balanced./ Dark and tart and reductive. Youth and vintage issues. Given bottle age, it may fill out and reveal its true nature and potential. Liked by the group.14.3+.
WT061417-10. 16 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE FIGUES, DOMAINE DE LA BASTIDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; 60% ‘shiraz’, 20% each grenache, carignan. Young, purple, reductive, premature./ Too young at this stage. Reduced, tart, raspy. Good vintage, good series to date, so I have full confidence. We’ve never encountered one this early before. 14.8++.
WT061417-11. 15 VISAN COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DE LA BASTIDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%. Peppery, spicy, sweet, balanced./ Yeah, spicy, balanced, sweet. Am I repeating myself? Well, so has the wine! Already food-worthy. Well liked by the group. The extra year makes all the difference. 16.5+.
WT061417-13. 15 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE, ST. ANTONIUSKELLEREI - (GERMANY) 9%. Nice freshness and considerable edge for ripe 2015. Classic Nahe riesling golden fruit./ Yes, Auslese sweetness in balance with the right textural edge of acidity. Honey and golden citrus. Clear, crisp aftertaste. Yes. 16.8+.
WT061417-15. BAGLIO BAIATA ALAGNA MARSALA CREMOVO - (FORTIFIED) 16.5%; 1/3 each insolia, grillo, catarratto. Very attractive egg custard aroma with cardamom, nutmeg, and allspice enhancement./ Palate confirms. They nailed this one. This egg-enhanced marsala concept was popular when I started in the wine business over 50 years ago. This is the first one I’ve seen in a long, long time. 17.5.
Wednesday, June 7, 2017
WT060717-1. 16 PETIT CHABLIS, DOMAINE SEGUINOT BORDET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Cool, clear, calcareous classic. Nostril swelling./ Full; plenty of material here. Plays roundness and richness against textural edge to portray a complete picture of an attractive and unique Chablis vintage. I want some more. 16.7
WT060717-3. 15 MERCUREY, DOMAINE FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Sweet and spicy. Deep and complete. Attractive now./ Yes, cherry and spice, Mercurey dark, plummy pinot fruit. Suave and sweet, with good acid for balance. Not nearly as tough as young Faiveley Mercureys used to be. Looks like this vintage is every bit as good as its billings. 17.3+.
WT060717-4. 14 CHATEAU DE CLOTTE, CASTILLON COTES DE BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; proprietor Bruno Laporte at Les Salles. Deep, dark, well armed, still pretty surly. Castillon loaded. Deep red and black fruits. A big boy./ Flavors still constrained. Plenty of mass and glycerol. Just 2014 backward. Well liked by the group for its promise. 16.3+.
WT060717-5. 15 MCMANIS FAMILY CALIFORNIA PETIT VERDOT - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.5%. Raw, fresh, young, fruitless, oakless. No varietal ID./ Sweet fruit and the usual good McManis oak caramel. 14.0++/15.7.
WT060717-6. 16 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DES PASQUIERS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%. True to the domaine’s measured style and fulfills 2016's well-proportioned promise. Deep and dark. Plenty of quality peels extract./ Yes, full fruit, form, power, glycerol, balance. The darker face of grenache here. Great price. 16.3.
WT060717-7. 15 PLAN DE DIEU COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE PASQUIERS - (FRANCE MEDITERANEAN) 14%; Gold Medal - Gilbert & Gaillard. More backward. Still sinewy, dominated by peels extract and grip instead of fruit roundness. That’s OK; this is well packed./ Deep and dark and still unfulfilled. Good signs for its future in a ripe vintage like this. 16.4++.
WT060717-8. 15 SABLET COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE PASQUIERS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%; Gold Medal - Gilbert & Gaillard. Riper, smokier, toastier fruit. Full and classic Sablet./ Round, rich in glycerol. Full body. Super balance and delivery. Thoroughly useful now for its texture and appeal. All enbracing. Wow. 16.7+.
WT060717-9. 15 GIGONDAS, DOMAINE DES PASQUIERS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%. Well, here’s the Sablet compacted into white dwarf concentration. Power, scope, depth, dimension./ Yes, Gigondas giant size, power, intensity, and super smooth glycerol. 17.1+.
WT060717-10. 11 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, AMADEO - (ITALY) 13%. 2011 all the way: very open and ripe, with power and ease. Shows both barrel and bottle age. Forward, dark, sweet, and generous./ Yes, barrel and bottle bouquet. Tannin coated with glycerol. Good value. 16.4.
WT060717-11. 15 KAMPTAL STEINMASSL RIESLING TROCKEN, G & R NASTL - (AUSTRIA) 13%. Discreet and proper Austrian riesling. Apple and stone fruit. Comfortable, confident./ Flavors echo aromas. 15 mild acidity. Gentle and appealing. 16.5.
WT060717-12. 15 VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC, CHATEAU DE MONTFORT - (FRANCE LOIRE) 11.5%. Very fresh, uplifted, and penetrating as well as 15 sweet. Classic melon, lime, and quince aromatic set./ Balance of sweetness and acidity. Appealing flavor intensity. Down the middle styling. Right. 16.5.
WT060717-13. 14 TABOR HILL LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE TRAMINETTE - (U.S. MICHIGAN) 12%. True. Attractively fresh and showing varietal ID./ Sweetness balanced by good acid and that traminette bitter trace. Yes. 16.3.
WT060717-14. 15 FETZER SHALY LOAM MONTEREY GEWURZTRAMINER - (U.S. WEST COAST) 12%; medium sweet. Some H2S, but the varietal ID and even titled terroir still come across. The Fetzer gewurz series continues to shine./ Again, that H2S, and, again, plenty of varietal character, sweetness, and fulfillment. Give it plenty of aeration. 16.0+.
WT060717-15. BAGLIO BAIATA ALAGNA CREMA MANDORLA MARSALA - (FORTIFIED) 16.5%; 1/3 each insolia, grillo, catarratto. Wonderful combo of Marsala baked fruit and almond extract. Long running classic./ Totally almondy and candied. What it’s meant to be. Needs a really sweet dessert. 16.5.