Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version - FEBRUARY 2018
by Dick Scheer Updated March 14, 2018
|Use your browser print function to print this page.|
Wednesday, February 28, 2018
WT022818-01. 16 TALLEY BISHOP'S PEAK EDNA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.5%. A good, vital young chardonnay nose with a dash of oak seasoning. Rich, right, balanced, fresh, crisp./ Apparent malo and Edna Valley softness. I would appreciate more striking and refreshing acidity. 16.6/16.2.
WT022818-02. 14 SANTENAY BLANC CHAMPS PERRIER, JEAN CHARTRON - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Oh, boy, classic. Full volume of fruit, oak, and Santenay blanc calcaire. Breathless./ Penetrating, all absorbing Burgundy barrel and lees influences, and that calcaire. Pushes Cote de Beaune‛s Big 3 blancs in body and stature. 17.7.
WT022818-03. 15 SULZFELDER MAUSTAL RIESLING KABINETT DRY, WEINGUT BRENNFLECK - (GERMANY) 13.5%. Wow, mineral saturated riesling with just the right tinge of spruce-y terpene./ Full in the mouth. Not austerely dry. Balanced for food. Long aftertaste. 17.0.
WT022818-04. 15 ESCHERNDORFER LUMP RIESLING SPATLESE JHB, WEINGUT BRENNFLECK - (GERMANY) 14%. Spatlese level volume, largesse, extract./ Dry and full. Lots of mass and concentration. Again, not at all austere. Wonderful take on Main riesling. 17.3.
WT022818-05. 15 SCHARZHOFBERGER RIESLING KABINETT, REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT - (GERMANY) 10%. Big contrast. Lithe, lilting Scharzhofberg riesling; all about finesse and precision. A complex of forthcoming aromas: apples, stone fruits, flowers, and slate./ Off dry. All about gossamer riesling delicacy, aristocracy, balance. Great acidity. Long riesling fruit and flower aftertaste. 17.4.
WT022818-06. 15 SCHLOSSBOCKELHEIMER KONIGSFELS RIESLING KABINETT, PAUL ANHEUSER - (GERMANY) 9%. The first sniff brings back memories of the great Mittel Nahes of the Staatsdomane decades ago. Unmistakable nobility. Honey, apple, schist. Penetrating./ Sweetness balanced by acidity and extract. This defines the terroir‛s rieslings. Long aftertaste. Best vintage of this in memory. And what a bargain. 17.0.
WT022818-07. 12 TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE RIESLING KABINETT, WEINGUT BOLLIG-LEHNERT - (GERMANY) 8.5%. Three years older, and understandably more mature. Nonetheless, it remains very fresh. Hallmark Apotheke, exuding breed and discretion. Has perfect pitch at age five./ Attractive kabinett sweetness balanced by fine acidity. Lays just right on the palate. Long aftertaste. 17.0.
WT022818-09. 15 NIERSTEINER HIPPING RIESLING SPATLESE, GEORG ALBRECHT SCHNEIDER - (GERMANY) 9%. The fuller, riper Hessia take on riesling. That tangerine note of Hipping riesling. Bright acid, vigor, freshness./ Oh, so fresh and upbeat is the acidity to balance full Rheinhessen riesling sweetness. Vibrant and harmonious. Wow. 17.2.
WT022818-10. 15 TERRE SICILIANE NERO D'AVOLA PRODIGO, CASA VINICOLA BOTTER - (ITALY) 13.5%. Full, sweet red cherry varietal expression enhanced by light appassimento. Plenty of material, grip, and volume to back up its cheery facade./ Ripe, savory, sassy, well textured taste adventure. Lightly and literally sweet, while well balanced by acid and extract. Tailor made for BBQ. 16.6.
WT022818-11. 15 MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO RISERVA, AZ. AGR. CICCIO ZACCAGNINI - (ITALY) 13%. Dry, barrel aged riserva nose. Dry for 2015; not too though. The aroma sweetens up and comes on with aeration. Now Monte violets and red fruit./ Deep, rich, and racy, with barrel aged savors. Barrel aged breadth and mellowness too. Good acid. In tune with this reliable series. 16.6+.
WT022818-12. 15 LA POSTA PIZZELLA VINEYARD UCO VALLEY MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 13.5%; crafted by Laura Catena. Frank, strong initial impact. Some oak. Structured. Catena styling./ Yes, shows the hand of the winemaker. Framed, forthright, lightly oaky. Good malbec richness. Full delivery. Balanced. Finishes well. 16.4.
WT022818-13. 15 TOSCANA ROSSO DEL PALAZZINO, PODERE IL PALAZZINO - (ITALY) 14%. Oh, wow, so rich and expansive sweet sangiovese fruit, barrel time, and barrel extracts. Gives 110%./ Again, full body, sweetness, flavor and texture ranges. Great acid, fine tannin. Big time dinnertime options. 16.9.
WT022818-14. 14 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE GUDARRA, AZ. AGR. BISCEGLIA - (ITALY) 14%. Whoa! Nostril stretching! Full power taken to advantage. Large scale aglianico indeed. Sweet fruit and light oak./ Yes, amplitude uber alles. Huge, ripe, powerful, all encompassing. Fine tannin. 17.6.
WT022818-15. 11 LA CLAPE CHATEAU DES KARANTES, DOMAINE DES KARANTES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14.5%; syrah, mourvedre, grenache; barrel aged 14 months. Very bright, youthful ruby color./ Oh, a commanding aroma of sweet and rich, red and black fruits. Total harmony of the varietals. Great oak seasoning. An overwhelming aromatic experience./ Dry tannin and sweet fruit in harmony. The age, the oak, the fruit, the AOC--all here. Total La Clape. 17.3.
Wednesday, February 21, 2018
WT022118-01. 15 FRANKEN WEISSBURGUNDER KABINETT DRY, WEINGUT BRENNFLECK - (GERMANY) 13.5%. Dry and astute. Well textured./ Again. This has a lot of textural appeal for food, as well as solid varietal definition. Well liked by the group. Orders taken. 16.4.
WT022118-02. 15 SULZFELDER MAUSTAL SILVANER SPATLESE DRY S, WEINGUT BRENNFLECK - (GERMANY) 13.5%. Oh, fabulous. Sweeter younger. An abundant silvaner. Dry and clearly from riper grapes./ Yes, complete, round with glycerol, varietal, balanced. Noble. One of the finest silvaners of my career. 17.6.
WT022118-03. 14 ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO KERNER, ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA - (ITALY) 14%. Oh, lilting and lovely take on kerner. Melon, stone fruit, flowers. Well padded./ Medium bodied, fresh. Clear varietal character. Milder in acidity than a riesling, which is typical. Good take on kerner. 16.5.
WT022118-04. 11 ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO MULLER THURGAU, ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA - (ITALY) 12.5%. Mature and useful. The freshness, the varietal character, and the spontaneity are all behind it./ Mainly vinous. Lightly grainy. Has residual value. 14.0-.
WT022118-05. 11 BOURGOGNE COTES D'AUXERRE BLANC CORPS DE GARDE, DOMAINE GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. This still works hard. Fresh, and well preserved by northern acidity. Well barrel aged too./ Yes, lovely, fresh acidity. Both barrel and bottle bouquet. Balance of acid and glycerol. At a sweet spot. 17.2.
WT022118-06. 11 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, CHATEAU DE SAINT ROMAIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Oh, that same, fresh 2011 acidity. More oak complex here. Total Cote de Beaune chardonnay./ Mellow with barrel and bottle development. Fine acidity echoes on the palate. Super value. 17.4.
WT022118-07. 16 TOSCANA ROSE, TENUTA MONTETI - (ITALY) 13%. Pure, bright, fresh, full. At an ideal stage. Rangy and well textured./ Rich and full. Great acidity and presence for food. Well balanced. 16.7.
WT022118-08. 14 RESERVE DU CHATEAU CROIX MOUTON, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13%. 14 cool and collected. Shows some barrel age qualities. Not as ripe and abundant as the Grand Vin, of course. Still, this displays plenty of class./ Bright red raspberry suggests cabernet franc. Fabulous cabernet franc plus good oak. Very bright. Ideal ripeness. 16.7+.
WT022118-09. 14 COTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS LE RENARD, DEVILLARD - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12%. Racy and dazzling. Is this all pinot noir? It‛s so lifted, alert, vivid, and gay that the nose suggests some gamay involved./ Satisfying body and flavor impact. Great acid and texture. A quaffer. 16.4.
WT022118-10. 14 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, DOMAINE ARNOUX PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Oh, very sweet cherry pinot noir. If it‛s chaptelized, it‛s well done. Joyous./ Medium bodied. Lightly 2014 tart, but there‛s plenty of sweet pinot fruit goodness too. And there‛s good acidity for food. Enormously popular with the group. Cases sold. 16.5.
WT022118-11. 12 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR LE RENARD, DEVILLARD - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Oh, my, how this has blossomed since first tasted many months back One fulfilled pinot noir now. 2012 and Chalonnais dark form. Swelling fruit bouquet./ Plus spices. Rich in pinot groundness. Really coming on with more dark cherry on the palate. More bottle bouquet to come. 16.7+.
WT022118-12. 14 ALTO ADIGE SCHIAVA, ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA - (ITALY) 12.5%. Full for vintage and grape variety and 12.5%. Ideal red fruit set. Has exceptional padding for schiava./ Yes, full fruit sweetness and padding, plus fine acidity. Ideal example. 16.7.
WT022118-13. 15 ALTO ADIGE LAGREIN, ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA - (ITALY) 13%. Deep and dark, and extra large for the variety, like the above. Great winemaking here. Sweet fruit./ And fine acidity too. Well filled out varietal core. Still so firmness to resolve. 16.4+.
WT022118-14. 15 SICILIA NERO D'AVOLA TENUTA IBIDINI, VALLE DELL' ACATE - (ITALY) 13%. Oh, 15 sweet and intense. Ideal, ripe black cherry nero. Just right./ Yes, sweet, flavorful, racy, juicy. Couldn‛t be a better example of unwooded nero d‛avola. 16.7.
WT022118-15. 12 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE ROCHE AUDRAN - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 14%. 70% grenache, 15% ea syrah, carignan. Finally, this is rounding out. It‛s taken years. No severity now. Rich, dark 12 fruit all the way. Sweet grenache, dark syrah, cherry carignan./ Yes, all rounded out now, Great acid, texture, range, personality. 16.6.
Wednesday, February 7, 2018
WT020718-01. 16 PROSECCO VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE RIVE DI COL SAN MARTINO CUVEE DEL FONTADORE, AZ. AGR. MOROTTO GRAZIANO - (SPARKLING) 11.5%. Stunning finesse, fine mousse, aromatic generosity./ More toward extra dry than brut. Smooth and gentle texture. 17.0.
WT020718-02. 16 CROZES HERMITAGE BLANC LA MATINIERE, FERRATON PERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 12.5%. Good, full, and vinous northern Rhone blanc. Well poised./ Pleasing mouthfeel, vinosity, size. Young, and properly staged for bottle bouquet development. 16.3+.
WT020718-03. 15 CHABLIS VAILLONS PREMIER CRU, SIMONNET-FEBVRE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Premier Cru full. Broad, large, pungent./ Yes, stony, calcareous, even marly old time Chablis. Full bodied indeed. 16.9+.
WT020718-05. 15 CALERA 40TH ANNIVERSARY CENTRAL COAST CHARDONNAY - (U.S. WEST COAST) 14.2%; aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 10% new. Mature and full. Further along than I like my California chardonnays./ Mature. Nutty and woody. The alcohol shows. 15.7.
WT020718-06. 16 BOURGEUIL LIEU-DIT BEAUREGARD, CAVE DES VIGNS DE BOURGUEIL - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12.5%. Sleek, herbal, elegant opening chords. Then cranberry and raspberry come forth. Perfectly poised young Bourgueil./ Surprisingly full textured. Good acid. Lots of material and mouthfeel; even some tannin. In form. One of the best and most fully extracted vintages of this. 16.5+.
WT020718-08. 14 CHIANTI CLASSICO PROPRIETA GATTESCHI, PODERE CIONA - (ITALY) 12.5%; aged 12 months in French oak barrels. Rich, as well as 2014 elegant. Really a wealth of material here. Unbelievable sophistication for the price. Including barrel assets. Both sweet and dried cherry aromas./ Yes, all the Chianti Classico merits one could desire. Great acidity. 16.7+.
WT020718-09. 15 DOURO ASSORBIO, ESPORAO - (PORTUGAL) 13.5%; 40% touriga nacional, 30% tinta roriz, 30% touriga franca. Ripe, sweet, wooded, modern, even international. Little sense of Douro origin./ Flavorful. Good, full acidity keeps it in a Euro mode. I‛m getting mixed messages here. 15.6+?
WT020718-10. 16 BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA RUTA 22 MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 13%. Rich and smoky. Thorough. One of the best vintages of this. Saturated with goodness./ Yes, abundant flavors of cherry and pit, raspberry and seed. Yow! 16.9.
WT020718-11. 16 AGUA DE PIEDRA GRAN SELECCION MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 13.5%; heavy bottle award. Rich and right. Seems barrel aged. Fruit and nut cremes./ Yes, rich fruit and definite barrel signs. Full texture and body. Up to its usual standards. 16.5.
WT020718-12. 16 MENAGE A TROIS DECADENCE CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S. WEST COAST) 13.5%. Sweet and mellow fruit indeed. Not pandering though. This features real cabernet sauvignon structure./ Medium bodied. Tasting Panel rated this 93/100. The notes are effusive. I wish that wine had showed up this evening. This bottle‛s kinda wimpy. 15.5.
WT020718-14. 16 VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC, CHATEAU MONCONTOUR - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%. Right down the middle in aromatic profile. Stimulating acidity. Zingy./ Sweet-tart and right. Great palate, long finish. A proper introduction to Vouvray. 16.8.
WT020718-15. 15 WINKELER HASENSPRUNG RIESLING SPATLESE, WEINGUT KRAYER - (GERMANY) 9%; est. 1866; Gold Preis - Hessen. Peach and orange blossom honey. Classic Rheingau riesling./ Golden, rich, fully sweet spatlese. No baby fat. The sweetness is balanced by acid and extract. One of the best in this series. 17.3+.
WT020718-16. PAVIA MOSCATO, CAPOSALDO - (ITALY) 5%. Fresh, high toned. Features citrus, apricot, flowers./ Sweet and fizzy, lithe and well balanced. Perfect pitch. 16.6.