Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- February, 2013
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Wednesday, February 20, 2013
WT022013-01. 12 AIRFIELD ESTATES UNOAKED YAKIMA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) 13.9%. Under screwcap and just shipped, so still in the apple blossom and banana fermentation aroma stage. Good green apple chardonnay undertone. Zesty youthful acidity./ Clear and cool, with youthful fruit and fermentation aspects. Attractive citrus note chimes in. Another winner in this series. 16.3+.
WT022013-02. 11 MACON LA ROCHE VINEUSE VIEILLES VIGNES, CHATEAU DE LA GREFFIERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Light and attractive oak veneer. Good old vines concentration and fullness. As well as acid cut./ Light oak does not suppress Maconnais chardonnay buoyancy. The old vines intensity continues to shine. A really well proportioned wine in all respects and one of the best in this series. Yes! 16.8.
WT022013-03. 11 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, THIERRY ET PASCALE MATROT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%. Lees, barrel aging, just the right touch of oak toast. This is what Cote de Beaune chardonnay is all about. The complete Matrot package./ Yes, the lees, the barrel time, the barrel extracts. The juicy chardonnay fruit. Total. 17.1+.
WT022013-04. 12 OYSTER BAY MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) 12.5%. Whoa! Very ripe and open-armed. Lush tropics. Such allure!/ Wow! Total grapefruit, gooseberry, mango. Irresistible charms! 16.8.
WT022013-05. 10 VAR VIOGNIER SAINTE FLEUR, TRIENNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 13.5%. Large, minerally, concentrated, wholly serious take on viognier. Elegant, silky, well tailored. Aristocratic bearing./ Subtle varietal honeysuckle and white fruit flavors. Great stature, minerality, presence. Deep and broad and gripping. Nothing playful about this viognier. Plan a special dish to accompany it. Say, Dover sole? 17.0+.
WT022013-06. 12 LANZARINI SEDIENTO MENDOZA MALBEC - BONARDA - (ARGENTINA) 13.5%; 50-50. Bright and youthful, showing malbec black cherry, licorice, and tar plus bonarda sweet berry pastille./ Sweet and sassy fruit display. Licorice, red fruit, touch of smokiness. Great acidity. Love it. 16.6+.
WT022013-07. 11 DON RODOLFO VINA CORNJEO COSTAS CAFAYATE VALLEY TANNAT - (ARGENTINA) 13.5%; vineyards at 6000 feet; oldest winery in the valley (200 yrs). Reduced under screwcap. Black fruit of tannat lurking. Air and age./ Tight; in the grips of reduction. Aeration does help bring up fruit and vinosity. This will work out well. 16.0++.
WT022013-08. 10 CAHORS, CLOS LA COUTALE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; 80% malbec, 20% merlot; Philippe Bernede - sixth generation. Deep, dark, backward young 2010 Cahors with a core of sweet fruit evident. Another winner in the series. Plumping up with aeration. Fabulous display of that licorice facet of malbec./ This has mass, grip, fruit, acid, tannin, and extract. Loaded for future development. 16.7+.
WT022013-09. 09 CHATEAU DE FONTENILLE, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; 65% merlot, 25% cab franc, 10% cab sauv; aged 18 mo, half in barrels, half in vat. Well, this is evolving now. Shows fruit, game, form, depth, and class./ Some tannin to shed. Young claret with potential. 16.2+.
WT022013-10. 11 TOSCANA DOGAJOLO, CARPINETO - (ITALY) 13%; 80% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon. Young and reduced to start as it often is. Primary and secondary aromas. Clears to a fresh vinosity with aeration./ Still reduced yet opening steadily. Well proportioned. Good acid and grip. A good year for this. Better in a few hours/weeks/months. 15.9+.
WT022013-11. 10 CHIANTI CLASSICO ROCCA DELLE MACIE, FAMIGLIA ZINGARELLI - (ITALY) 13.5%. Good ripeness for the vintage. And not overripe as in some hot years./ Spice as well as ripe fruit. Sweet and solid both. Just shipped and youthfully confined. Needs time. 16.2+.
WT022013-12. 11 CIGAR ZIN OLD VINE CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 13.5%. Strong and dry. Close 2011. Old vines concentration. Enigmatic. Has sweet aspects and dry too./ Good, sweet, ripe fruit for 2011 but also 2011 fluidity. Sending mixed signals. 15.9+?
WT022013-13. 11 CLINE ANCIENT VINES CONTRA COSTA MOURVEDRE - (U.S.) 14.5%; since 1982. Oh, nice! The mourvedre character is rightly purple, violet perfumed, and attractively reductive. Both rich and cool. Well textured and deep. Yes!/ Sweet, smooth, and easy for 2011. Old vines score. Long and satisfying finish. 16.7+.
WT022013-14. 11 THOMAS GOSS MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) 14.5%; Ben Riggs, winemaker; 2010 - Wine Spectator Top 100. Rich and powerful. Better than the 2010. Really well balanced, concentrated, deep. Syrah qualities of raspberry and lavender./ Wow! Big, rich, and dense. Balanced by cool acid race. Has it all. Incredible! 17.3+.
WT022013-15. 11 VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC, CHATEAU MONCONTOUR - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%. Whoa! Quince and lime. Sweet apple core. Complete and balanced Vouvray./ Sweetness and acidity in perfect harmony. Juicy, long, deep, thorough. 17.0+.
WT022013-16. 11 OPPENHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT, DR. HEYDEN - (GERMANY) 12%. Lovely tangerine scent of Rheinfront riesling. Sweet, dusty fruit overlayment. Really concentrated for kabinett; likely a spatlese qualifier./ Wow! Acidity, plushness, richness. The right Rheinfront Hessen properties and proportions. Both lithe and succulent. 16.6.
WT022013-17. 09 MERLER KLOSTERBERG RIESLING KABINETT, EDUARD KROTH - (GERMANY) 8%. Wholesome. Good acidity for 09 thanks to downriver site. This Mosel works./ Zesty, etched Mosel riesling vitality as well as maturity at the core. Vivid and racy in demeanor.. 16.4.
WT022013-18. BOISSIERE SWEET VERMOUTH liter - (APERITIF) 18%; since 1857. Medium, tawny color./ Tawny toned, with full range of spices and botanicals. Flows nicely.. Tonic and racy. Sweet, with good tonic cut. 16.0.
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
WT021313-01. 11 KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, STADT KREMS - (AUSTRIA) 12.5%; since 1452. Whoa, the real deal! This is full and rich. Plenty of apple and lima./ Full and full flavored indeed. Soft and inviting on entry, with good acid relief in back. 16.5.
WT021313-02. 11 CHABLIS, ANTONIN RODET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 11-14%; since 1875; unoaked. Scented and open. Apple, pear, even some peach. Enticing./ Plush and finely burnished.. Delicious fruit flavor. A most alluring Chablis. And quite the best in this series. 16.9+.
WT021313-03. 11 MACON VILLAGES, JOSEPH DROUHIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%. Wow! Crisp, upbeat apple aroma. Just dazzles with relief and vivacity./ Rich and fresh and right. Very flavorful. Long, breezy, lifted finish. One of the best in this series. 16.7+.
WT021313-04. 11 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 13%; 60% Macon Lugny, 40% Montagny. Sweet, open Burgundy chardonnay with nice oak seasonings. Just the right touch of oak. Sooo well crafted. Cool and confident./ Fruit and oak in harmony. Dryness, power, and presence invite meal-time service. As does the dash of astringency at the finale. Well crafted indeed.17.0+.
WT021313-05. 12 THE CROSSINGS AWATERE VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) 13%.Oh, boy! Mango, citrus, gooseberry. Flair, flash, freshness./ Fresh and flavorful indeed. Gooseberry, mango, cat, gooseberry. Has it all. 17.2.
WT021313-06. 10 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, DOMAINE DU PRIEURE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 12.5%; from the Bougeot vineyard next to Savigny les Beaune Narbantons Premier Cru. Vines 36 years old. Fresh and elegant. Showing Savigny black cherry pinot character. As bright and lovely as the 09. Brilliant, in fact./ lovely grip of Savigny cherry and peel. Great acid, race, vitality. All the best aspects of 2010. Eric Asimov would love
this one. 16.8+.
WT021313-08. 09 CONN CREEK HERRICK NAPA VALLEY RED - (U.S.) 14.5%; Bordeaux varieties plus syrah. Sweet, New Wave Napa red with sweet-spices oak. Plush and giving for 09. Fabulous composition./ Sweet baking spices flavors. Good tannic grip. Admirable winemaking here. 17.2+.
WT021313-09. 10 EDUCATED GUESS NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) 14.5%. Fresh, bright blackberry and black currant Napa cabernet characteristics. Real Napa class. The fine dark fruit of 2010./ Yes, 10 dark and bright. Intense and lovely oak and fruit. Tannic grip. Fine. 16.9+.
WT021313-10. 11 BODEGA TAMARI RESERVE MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 13.5%. Fresh, bright, and as elegant as always. In tune with the series, and I love it!/ Yes, brightness and flair. Great acid. Food wine. 16.6.
WT021313-11. 10 BARBERA D’ASTI LE ORME, MICHELE CHIARLO - (ITALY) 13.5%. A good one. Fresh, crisp, and bright. A real Asti take on barbera. Lovely dark cherry fruit./ Both grip and viscosity, in harmony. A good vintage of this. Classic Asti barbera. 16.4+.
WT021313-12. 07 DOURO CHARAMBA, AVELEDA - (PORTUGAL) 13%; Wed group price: $3.99. Good, intense, maturing tones of nuts and autumn leaves, with a core of fresh, youthful fruit still./ Yes, Portuguese black fruit. Plenty of cellar development to go–an exceptional situation at this price. Has been consistent over the last couple of years and developing slowly and logically. Kudos to supplier storage conditions. 16.4+.
WT021313-13. 07 RIOJA RESERVA, BODEGAS LAN - (SPAIN) 13.5%; aged 1 year in French and American oak barrels followed by 2 years in bottle before release. Exceptionally fresh fruit for a reserva, and fine oak too. Very bright and young reserva. This rocks./ Yes, lots of fine fruit of 07 with good oak seasoning. Nothing to excess. An excellent vintage of this. 17.0+.
WT021313-14. 09 WINE GUERRILLA DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 14.7%. Brilliant red raspberry with fine, light oak and peppercorn./ Wow! Apple-raspberry-cranberry Dry Creek Valley zinfandel ID. Defines its genre. Great acid. Just the right levels of alcohol and tannin. Fine. 17.6+.
WT021313-15. 10 VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC LA FORCINE, AUGUSTE BONHOMME - (FRANCE LOIRE) 12%. Right down the middle. Quince and melon. Fine texture, etch./ Yes, a mellow demi-sec style. Smooth. As it ages, the impression will become drier and deeper textured. Well poised. 16.4+.
WT021313-16. 11 JOHANNISBERGER KLAUS RIESLING AUSLESE, H. KRAYER - (GERMANY) 9.5%; since 1866. Bright and crackly Rheingau riesling fruit. Immediate burst of orange and stones./ Great acid. Full auslese richness. Apricot nectar. Pulpy and essential. 17.6+.
WT021313-17. 11 CHATEAU PARTARRIEU, SAUTERNES half bottle - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 13.5%; Clos de la Vicairie at Preignac. Concentrated pineapple and citrus aromas. Plus botrytis nuttiness. An essence...with cool raciness./ Tobacco and tea botrytis notes. Pear and pineapple flavors. Unctuous concentration. Practically a syrup. Cut with sleek acid race. Dusted with botrytis. An essence indeed. Has it all. 19.0+.
WT021313-18. STOCK SWEET VERMOUTH ROSSO - (APERITIF) 16%; since 1884. Red brown color./ Sweet and spicy. The fruit is cooked./ Tawny and likeable../ Tonic, tawny fruit. A bit low in acid. Noilly was better. 16.2.
Wednesday, February 6, 2013
WT020613-01. 11 ALSACE PINOT BLANC, PAUL ZINCK - (FRANCE ALSACE) 12.5%. Classic green fruits of pinot blanc. Big, full Zinck style./ Very fruity taste. Full presence of a Zinck wine. This will get better and better over the coming months. 16.0+.
WT020613-02. 11 CHATEAU SUAU, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 12.5%; in Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux; 55% sauvignon blanc, 35% semillon, 10% muscadelle. Good full semillon support with rich, racy sauvignon blanc of the Bordeaux order and light dash of muscadelle lime and tonic./ Plenty of sauvignon and muscadelle cut. Really racy, dashing. Plus semillon padding. This is Action City! 17.0.
WT020613-03. 11 SANNIO FALANGHINA, TERRA DI BRIGANTI - (ITALY) 14%; organic. Full varietal display of fruit, flower, tonic. Ideal./ Tropical fruit basis. Alluring floral perfume goes above and beyond that. Juicy acid. Yes! 16.8.
WT020613-04. 11 CATALUNYA MACABEO - CHARDONNAY, RAMON ROQUETA - (SPAIN) 13%; 80-20; since 1898. Good macabeo airs, cool, stony, subtly perfumed./ Good and brisk, showing both form and filling. Plenty fresh going into its second year. 16.3.
WT020613-05. 10 DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI, PODERI DI LUIGI EINAUDI - (ITALY) 13%; since 1896. Attractive complex of flowers, berries, and shoe polish. Smooth and deep./ Yeah, berry, polish, leather. Unique and enticing. 16.9+.
WT020613-06. 11 CATALUNYA ULL DE LLEBRE, RAMON ROQUETA - (SPAIN) 14%. Fresh and bright tempranillo and whole cluster fermentation aromas./ Oh, so juicy, crisp, incisive! Great fresh berry taste, elegant finish. 16.7+.
WT020613-07. 11 TERRE DI CHIETI SANGIOVESE LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA, GRAN SASSO - (ITALY) 12.5%. Firm, even severe to start. Sweeter and deeper after aeration. Peppery./ Sweet and dried fruits plus black pepper and liverwurst taste. Unique. 15.9+.
WT020613-08. 11 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA, GRAN SASSO - (ITALY) 13%. Typically dry and close in youth. Peppery. Needs air and age./ Oh, but on the palate a great display of montepulciano violets and berries. Especially blueberry. Fine acid burnish. Great race! 16.5+.
WT020613-13. 10 BECHTHEIMER GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE, G. & M. MACHMER - (GERMANY) 10.5%; gold kammerpreis - Rheinland-Pfalz. Rosy and classic./ Sweet and flavor. Orange, rose, tonic. Good acid for the varietal. Good vintage of this. 16.9.
WT020613-14. NOILLY PRAT VERMOUTH ROUGE DE FRANCAIS liter - (APERITIF) 16%; founded 1813; aged 3 months in oak barrels. Bay, laurel, and mulled red wine. Clove and cinnamon highlights./ Sweet, with full bay leaf flavor and astringent foil. The right level of sweetness. Balanced and long. Well crafted. 16.6.