Updated 10-31-24Wednesday Group Tasting Notes date: 10/30/24
1. PERTOIS-MORISET L'ASSEMBLAGE BRUT CHAMPAGNE 12.5%. RM est. 1951 at Le Mesnil sur Oger; half each pinot noir and chardonnay from Coteaux Sezannais. Say, that's Sezanne style. Takes the pedal off the metal compared the big three zones and avoids the heaviness of the Aube/Bar champagnes. Reminds me of Moncuit's Coulmet, from Sezanne. Good dusting of sur lattes autolysis./ Yeah, there's relative ease and flow to both flavor and texture. Nice balance of black and white fruits. Fits the pattern. 17.4. Generally enjoyed by attendees, though not to the taste of one commentator. 49.99
2. 23 VINHO VERDE LAS LILAS, ADEGA PONTE DA BARCA 11%. From an estate between the Lima and Vez rivers and the varieties loureiro and treixadura; cooperative bottled. A little H2S under screwcap. Definitely shows the stone fruit and flowers aromatics of the superior varieties of the region. At not much of a surcharge over the prosaic brands, mass produced from ordinary, less aromatic grapes./ SUS and varietal push both carry over on the palate. Decant, and enjoy the pure fruit. Best vintage of this I've tasted, despite the SUS issue. 16.6+. Multiple attendees noticed H2S. Cleared to reveal a juicy peachiness. its fruit intensity grew into the next day enough to stand up to a curry dish. 10.99
3. 23 VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO, TENUTA LE CALCINAIE 13%. Est. 1987; sandy soil; aged on lees until spring. One of the fruitier, more forward vintages of this. They can be somewhat reticent in youth../ 2023 combo of fruit richness and acidity. Sandy soil explains its lithe nature. Builds in body and character as it airs. And probably more as it ages a few more months. 16.6+. Well liked by attendees. 'Good example, very nice and typical.' 'Complex of custard, bakery tones, brown spices, baked pear.' One noted that these suggest a relative warm fermentation. 21.99
4. 21 SOMMERACHER RIESLING RIESLING TROCKEN, WINZ. SOMMERACH 12%. Est. 1901 by 35 families; oldest wine cooperative in Franken. These often show SUS when young. This one seems to have moved past that stage. Yeah, a pleasingly dry Franken riesling nose is coming forth./ In a cool year, this is showing a high trocken RS, probably to balance the vintage's high acidity, which it does with aplomb. Good vintage of this popular VC regular. Balanced and lasting. 16.5. Enjoyed by attendees for its typicity, austerity, acidity, fruit flavors, and light petrol highlight. 'Should age well.' 16.99
5. 22 SHADY LANE ESTATE LEELANAU PENINSULA BLAUFRANKISCH 12.5%. 20 months in French oak cooperage of unstated size and seasoning. Full color. Boy, that's lush for MI blue franc. The oak is a well integrated part of the picture and adds aromatic complexity, suavity, range, and depth. Bravo./ Full flavored. Great acidity. Daring dash of VA too. Less tannic than some recent vintages. Neat stuff. 16.9+. Well liked by attendees. 'Black cherry, black pepper, new oak; brisk acid, long finish.' 'Complex; lots of oaky spice; easy to drink and should improve.' 21.99
6. 20 WEINLAND BLAUFRANKISCH, EVOLUCIO 13%. From Burgenland, on eastern Austria's Pannonian plain, the country's oldest winegrowing region; native yeasts; no malo; aged in large cooperage. Shade lighter and more advanced./ Suaver, more mature. Plenty of varietal character at a nice stage of development. Yes./ Rounder. More flow. Flavorful. Good acidity. Less tannin. Very satisfying value ready to be put to use. 16.7. Not as popular. 'More mature; brett, leather.' 14.99
7. 22 MARCHIGUE GRAN RESERVA MAPA COLCHAGUA VALLEY CARMENERE 14%. Near the mouth of the valley, the coolest zone; aged a year on lees in French oak cooperage; Monsieur Touton selection. Dark red black../ Ripe black cherry. Varietal richness and give. No drawbacks. All fruit; no herb; no earth./ Rich and round fruit absorbs the high alcohol, which supplies body but no heat. This source know what to do with carmenere; always has. 16.8. In addition to cherry, attendees noted dark chocolate and dark-roast coffee beans. Some bell pepper also emerged with aeration, not uncommon in carmenere's aromatic profile. 15.99
8. 22 CLINE ANCIENT VINES CONTRA COSTA ZINFANDEL 14.5%; dry farmed vines over 100 years old; aged 8 months in American oak, 30% new. Medium dark ruby./ Zinfandel raspberry and peppercorn comes right out and slaps you around. Deep and powerful and penetrating. Ideal old vines degree of concentration./ Yes, rich, lush, powerful. The US oak is a positive addition and points to old time zin classicism. Well balanced through its long finish. How do they keep the price so low?! 17.3. Complex aromatic set enjoyed: bramble, clove, star anise, vanilla. Too oaky and powerful for one commentator. 14.99
9. 19 VACQUEYRAS VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE LE COUROULU 14.5%. 3rd generation estate est. 1928; 75% grenache planted in 1932 and 25% syrah in 1960; cobblestones over blue clay; unfined, unfiltered. Dark, ruddy red violet./ The power is striking and positive. The varieties are in perfect proportion and sympathy. Old vines concentrated for sure. Wow; breathless./ Big in the mouth too, flavor wise, texture wise, old vines extract wise. Great balance. The tannins are fine grained and will only add support at the table, so no need to cellar more, though it wouldn't hurt. Long aftertaste. 17.8+. Red WOTN for at least one. For its old vines intensity, balance, emerging complex of iron and black olive, and aging potential. 28.99
10. 19 RIOJA CRIANZA, BODEGAS LAN 13.5%. All tempranillo from Alta and Alavesa; aged a year in barrels with American oak staves and French oak heads. Medium dark, rusty red./ A good combo of fruit and barrel and bottle age, so it fits my image of crianza. And I like the US oak part that talks tradition./ Yes, the proper balance of fruit and barrel and bottle bouquet. Well textured, full bodied. At a good stage. Good acid too. Just a dusting of tannin adds texture and not obstinence. 17.0. Considered correct now and capable of improving. Also, 'something odd here; almost nice.' Huh? 18.99
11. 17 RIOJA RESERVA, BODEGAS LAN 13.5%. 92% tempranillo, 8% mazuelo from Alta & Alavesa vineyards over 25 yrs old; aged 18 months in French/American oak barrels & 21 months in bottle. Darker and browner./ Seems more powerful than the crianza, though the alcohol statements are the same. Larger, oakier, more complex, more important./ Again, I like that US oak effect. Two years older, but more tannic. Bigger wine with more improvement to come in the cellar. 17.3+. Considered superior. 'More fruit, oak, power, tannin; vanilla and pipe tobacco.' 23.99
12. 20 CARMES DE CHATEAU RIEUSSEC, SAUTERNES half bottle 13.5%. At Fargues; owned by the Rothschilds of Chateau Lafite; second wine; named after the Carmelite monks that once owned the property; 80-90% semillon 10-20% sauvignon and muscadelle according to vintage; aged 18 months in barrels. The lush, semillon dominant style of the Grand Vin expressed in nearly the same intensity. Honey, citrus, pineapple, dusty botrytis. Wow./ Indeed, balance of sweetness, fruit concentrate, acid, and dry, dusty tobacco leaf botrytis. A masterpiece in a not particularly classic Sauternes vintage. Lasts forever. 18.6+. WOTN for all. 21.99
