Wine Enthusiast 92: 'This wine is concentrated with aromas of boysenberry, huckleberry, cinnamon, clove and violet. The palate offers blackberry jam, orange zest and cardamom that glide into tobacco leaf and a dry finish. Pair with prime rib. $28.'

100% varietal at 1400'; aged 20 months in seasoned French oak cooperage. Fulfills all expectations for terroir and winery quality and style. Full, dark, well fruited, oak complex in harmony, varietally expressive, AVA specific. Large, power in the positive, full textured and flavored, mouthfilling and coating, tannins well managed. Long. Marietta does everything right. 94/100.

Tasting Panel 92: 'Ripe and creamy, with round, supple tannins and a luscious flow of cherry, espresso, licorice, and soy sauce. $20.'

60% cab sauv, 20% cab franc, 18% merlot, 2% petit verdot. Full red violet. Rich and intriguing. Seems to combine Paso warm with Santa Barbara cool. Nothing else quite like it. Certainly Paso rich on the palate. Still, there's that cooler, darker claret fruit of Santa Barbara. Great texture, mouthfilling flavors. Its own thing. Got to have it. 93/100.

Tasting Panel 92: 'Classic notes of red cherry and strawberry lead the way, met by fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins that are nicely proportioned to the wine's weight. $28.'

Fresh, cool, varietal statement suggesting coastal origins. Indeed, bright, snappy coastal pinot character with good acidity, balance, and flavor length. How do they do it at this price? 91/100.

Tasting Panel 94: 'Spanning four prestigious vineyards and utilizing five clones, this captured our attention with its keen acidity and inherent ripeness. Aromas of cherrywood bark and sandalwood lead to unique, remarkably fresh layers of hibiscus, prickly pear, cherry tomato, and cranberry. Underscored by coffee and toasted oak, a generous, silky stream of cocoa glides along the palate. $30.'

Wine Enthusiast 91 - BEST BUY: 'This wine is rich, concentrated with aromas of blackberry, cumin, dried herbs and florals. The palate offers black cherry, peach, clove and white grapefruit intertwined with mineral, earth and a dry finish. Pair with your favorite burger.'

St. Laurent, malbec, carignan, syrah. Unique combo that reflects each of its components but makes me wonder what's the point. And I've got my thinking cap on. I like best the st. laurent part of it. Cool, fresh, acidic. I suspect that's a large part of the formula. Seems like an amalgam of experimental plantings. In the long run, it's the first and foremost New World st. laurent I've tasted. I wonder how it would be without its partners. Maybe it needs the support. In the end, contemplative for sure. 91/100.

Wine Enthusiast 95: 'Full of power and concentration, this is a serious Zinfandel that delivers deeply toned flavors of black fruit, mixed berries, pine and even tree pitch. Distinctive and stimulating, this wine showcases how expressive the variety can be of where it is grown. It smells of Napa Valley in early Autumn. An intriguing pleasure.'

Planted in 1922. Varietal raspberry clarity. Speaks for its specific origin. Suggestions of old vines concentration. Racy red raspberry flavor. Very bright take on the varietal, as Birichino seems to favor. Unique, food worthy, desirable. 92+/100. List price: $30.

Tasting Panel 92: 'Tropical notes of pineapple and kiwi merge with honeysuckle thanks to the addition of a bit of Viognier. $14.'

Wine Enthusiast 91 - BEST BUY: 'This wine is rich, opulent with aromas of ripe green apple, peach, mulled spice, toasty vanilla cream and orange zest on the nose. The flavors on the palate are yellow apple, allspice and white grapefruit that transform into orange sherbet, mineral and a long, silky finish. Pair with weekday meals.'

Wine Spectator 93: 'Generous tones of ripe tropical fruit, including papaya, grilled p9ineapple and mango. There's also a wonderful sense of restraint inn the way the acidity and supple texture play with the flavors. $35.'

Native yeasts; aged in seasoned French oak barrels. Good and strong lees presence in lieu of barrel extracts. And more vinosity than fruit. Sweeter and more forthcoming fruit flavor than aroma. The overall harmony really pleases me. One of the best vintages in the series. This will be agreeable with so many seafood and poultry preparations, sauce or no sauce. Bravo. 91/100. Popular with attendees, even Europhiles, for its classic construction, balance, and subtle barrel influences. Orders taken.

This as so much sulphur on it when I first turned the screwcap that I couldn't even give it a rating. Over the next couple of hours, it aired EXTREMELY WELL. Positive comments all around from attendees. 'Shockingly good; lovely nose and flavor; good acid; the real deal.' 'Crisp, fresh; citrus, grapeskin, good acid-sweet balance.' Orders taken. 91+/100.

Parker 91: 'The juicy and young 2021 Catena Malbec has a nice combination of spice, berry and herbs to make it balanced, expressive and attractive. It's round, velvety and nicely crafted in an easy to understand and highly drinkable style and a commercial profile. A champion in drinkability.'

Pungent golden and green apple aromas of a cool climate, high altitude chardonnay. One of the best unwooded Argentine chardonmays I've nosed. And look at the price!/ This is racy. Little or malo undertaken. Full flavor and refreshing acidity. 91/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94: 'From one of Marlborough's leading organic and biodynamic wineries, this cranberry-colored Pinot is instantly appealing, with heady aromas of plump red berries and ground pepper, with dried flower and meaty undertones. It's lightweight and ultrafresh, with crunchy acidity, savory tannins and a medicinal, cocktail bitters-like edge to the fruit. A highly classy drop with autumnal vibes. Drink now-2030.'

Extreme citrus and passion froit. Dashing indeed. Palate shows equal vigor, racy acidity, and oodles of flavor. Best vintage of this I've tasted. 92/100.

Parker 91: 'The 2021 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon spent 15 days on skins with twice daily pumpers and matured in a combination of vessels for 12 months (65% seasoned French oak, 5% new French oak, 30% in stainless steel). This is an unashamedly bright, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon that rests on a very fine rachis of tannin on the mid-palate. It is supple and fine and oh so fresh. It is modern, juicy, vibrant and crunchy, even, reminiscent of good Loire Chinon. It is also a very good value. Drink 2023-2028.'

Est. 1858; average age of vines 40 years; trouble-free vintage. Semillon body for sure. Subtle varietal aromas of lemon custard and a nutty theme. What is it? Cashew-/ Full, round, flavorful. Very rangy at the table because it's not aromatically forceful. And it's well balanced. These age famously too. 92+/100. Attendees liked this, noting semillon's waxy character. One commented 'beeswax'. Ageworthiness noted too.

56% chenin blanc, 22% chardonnay, 19% viognier, 2% colombard, 1% roussanne. Well fashioned cuvee I've always enjoyed. Mellow and well coordinated. Dry and well balanced by good fruit acidity. Not austere; smooth now. Chenin and chardonnay quince and apple lead the way. Viognier floral overtones. Wide table applications. Good price. 90/100. Aeration enhanced its aromatics. Attendees liked the price-quality relationship.

80% merlot, 10% each of the cabernets. Aged a year in new oak barrels. Large, prominent, forceful display of fruit and oak in tandem. This is especially abundant for the vintage and one of the best Lescours I've nosed. Rich merlot dominance with the darker and more tannic cabernets in support. Grand Cru Classe quality and largesse this vintage. 94+/100.

At Moulon; 80% merlot, 10% each of the cabernets. Deep, dark red violet. Nose a bit reticent. There's good fruit material deep down there. Should improve with aeration. Richer and more flavorful on the palate. Vintage and merlot forward and accommodating in the mouth. This has form, depth, and balance too. And acid and light tannin. Our first 2022 claret is a winner. 91+/100. Widely appreciated; orders taken. 'Ripe, and fine concentration. Primary and juicy.' Good length, good value.' Attendees noted that the tannins won't take long to resolve.

At La Sauve; 50% sauvignon blanc, 20% each sauvignon gris, muscadelle, 10% semillon. It's the relatively high percentage of the last three varieties that distinguish this from the pack year after year. It's weightier than sauvignon blanc dominant cuvees, more complex, and earthier. Broad range of flavor sensations. In harmony. Smoother textured than a high sauvignon blanc cuvee. Another good vintage of this. 91/100.

Dark red violet. Black wine of Cahors. Black hole at this stage. Taking more than it's giving. A degree of plush relief on the palate. Flavorful too. Very concentrated form of Cahors malbec. Promising. 92+/100.

4th generation; sand and gravel over fractured granite bedrock. Full nasal presence replete with lees and granite intricacies. This guy is quite a winemaker. Subtle underbrush and green botanicals plus that minerality. Very satisfying texturally too. Muscadet meets a special winemaker's hand. Bravo. 91/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Very mineral and richly flavored; good acid and long; a very fine example.'

On sand over granite; 'hommee' is an 18th century term for the acreage a vineyard worker could cover in a day; from a particular parcel on the Chauviniere estate. Well, this is bigger and more ageworthy. Special terroir indeed. Close to the extra presence of a cru Muscadet. Yes. Oh, and even closer to cru in the mouth. Weight, flavor, texture all in spades. Well balanced too. As much as I like the above, this is worth the moderate premium.92+/100. Attendees agreed. 'Even better in all regards. This is good or better than any I've had.' Case orders taken

Full maroon color. Both sweetness and lift. Intense terroir and varietal statement. Kudos. Yes, adequate fruit sweetness to handle the vintage's high acidity. This is a perfect picture of Saumur Champigny. Will carry on. 93+/100.

From Chateau de Valmer; demi sec. A degree of lime and quince cool green chenin character to the nose. Comes on as it airs and warms. Proper acidity to balance the sweetness, though not as racy as the exemplary 2021. Suits the pattern here and will have a wide audience. 90/100.

Stony, sandy-clay soils on the banks of the Cher; aged 6 months on lees. Understated but clear varietal ID. The milder sauvignon take of down river versus the Region de Sauvignon. A pleasing value. 2023 fruity, sweet, balanced, agreeable. Good and gentle fun. 91/100. Really popular with attendees. 'Lovely, real sauvignon nose and flavor. Good fun for not much money.' 'Peach, grass, herbs, generous fruit statement. Easy, crowd pleasing.'

Generations old estate at Bue. That's more pungent and penetrating from the get go. Elegance and intricacy that mark this domaine's wines year after year. Perfect pitch. Yes, spot on fragrance, form, figure. Nothing askew; it all hangs together so well both flavor and texture wise. A pattern of BALANCE. More aromatic amplitude to come. 93+/100. One of the favorites. 'Classic, mineral driven, right on.' 'This is really good, well made, very long finish, spot on.'

Nice and full, ripe, and soft this vintage, while preserving the tart cherry core of northern Burgundy. Flavorful. No tannin to speak of. Glides across the palate. Well, there's a light tannin grip at the end, which promises more bouquet to come. 92+/100.

From 100 year old vines; aged a year in oak barrels, 20% new. This is certainly old vines dense. Auxey rouge austere too, even at 5+ years of age and a relatively forward vintage. Yeah, this is all potential. Loaded. Waste of money to drink now. But just you white enry iggis..93++/100. Attendees recognized and respected its grandeur and potential. Orders taken, with the intention to cellar. 'Cote d'Or character. Tight now but so good. Pinot spice with touch of underbrush. New oak soaked up by excellent 2018 fruit.' 'Wine of the Night. So much wine here; fruit and mineral depth, intense structure, appropriate use of oak.'

Est. 1861; highest and steepest vineyards of the AOC; on granite, schist, and andesite; the oldest vines (40+ years) go into this cuvee, which is commonly purchased by French embassies; Pavillon is the building, an old hunting lodge, and Chavannes the lieu dit; Shares its Art Deco label with Chateau Thivin, as the owning families are intermarried. Whoa, that soars in 2021! So aromatic and nostril tingling that it's almost like it has a dash of positive VA. But it doesn't. That's as explicit a terroir expression of gamay as you'll get from this Grand Cru. Equally flavorful, rich in suave texture. Mouthcoating, lasting. Balanced, loaded. No tannin issues. One of the best of the series. It doesn't get any better than this. 94/100. Recognized by attendees as 'a true Grand Cru; Beaujolais with a bit more'. 'Lovely nose and flavor.'

On Kimmeridgian limestone in Tonnerre and Molosmes north of Chablis; vines planted from 1954 to 1990; aged 8 months on lees in vats and seasoned barrels. Light gold color. A weighty combo of terroir, lees, barrels. Not pretty..and not to be denied. It intrigues me as a northern Burgundy chardonnay. Palate more conventional. Flavorful enough. Decent acidity for 2022.it's from the north. Lasting texture. A versatile dinner wine. 91/100. Well liked by attendees. 'Nice oak. A value.' 'Full weight, smooth, rich fruit.'

4 generation estate; 9 acres in Cote de Lechet, scattered over 6 plots. Wow, this is about as big and concentrated vintage of this I've tasted. It almost seems barrel aged, though I doubt it is. Probably the aged on lees effect. Impressive volume. Just as large in the mouth. Milder in acid than the 2021, of course. But fuller and more flavorful. You don't see many Premier Crus at this price level any longer. Catch it while you can. 93+/100. Well liked for both quality and value; orders taken. 'Mineral driven; 1er Cru shows.' 'Complete!'

Fifth generation vigneron honors her great grandfather. That's Charnay full bodied. No oak showing, as expected. Race and vigor of cool 2021. Yes, ideal combo of terroir amplitude and vintage brightness and acidity. Perfect balance. Real discovery. 92/100.

Sauvignon blanc and viognier. Who would have thought of this unique combo but Rhone innovator Louis Barruol? And it works! Sauvignon citrus meets viognier honeysuckle, and they cooperate to the fullest. Flavors are just as dazzling, intense, and harmonious as the aromas. Remarkable for quality, compatibility, and uniqueness. 92/100.

In the Roux-Quiot family for 125 years; 20 year old vines; grenache, syrah, mourvedre; at Gigondas; vineyard at the foot of the Dentelles. An unusual degree of whole bunch fermentation coolness, even for Trignon. Dark, deep, unique. Yes, entirely cool fruited. Even the alcohol is cooling. Boy, what a treat it is to see so many variations on the AOC Cotes du Rhone theme, most costing under $20. A sensual and intellectual adventure every time. 92/100.

80% grenache, 15% syrah, 5% mourvedre, vines averaging 40 years. Best Cork Award. In its vernacular, especially bright and cool in 2021 Wears its alcohol well; it's cooling rather than warming. Yes, there's unusual freshness and lift to this as well a Vacqueyras individuality. 92+/100.

Wine Spectator 92: 'Supple and engaging, with steeped cherry and cassis melded with ganache and woodsy savory bass notes. Grilled orange peel-edged acidity brings good energy to the warm, ripe profile, while a refreshing menthol note marks the nicely melded close. Grenache, Mourv褲e and Syrah. Drink now through 2030.'

While I couldn't get a read on this when I tasted this right after opening, the wine's true character came out with aeration. Very popular with attendees, orders taken, and talk of Wine of the Night. ' Very lovely nose and palate; very long. This should last a very long time.' 91+/100.

50 year old vines. 48 g/l RS. Fermented in fuder by native yeasts. Yes, 2021 cuts to the quick! Totally incisive and fully relevant to the site. Wow. 2021 acidity counters its RS just right. A defining vintage of this. 93+/100.

Good and vital yet. Pie apple emphasis. Really good acidity for variety and vintage. Quaffable. Liter is the right choice of package. 91/100.

Broadbent's non vintage table wine propensities make for a bit of a selling issue, although I can usually judge their relative freshness from tasting and relate same in my notes. And this one, likely 2022, is plenty fresh enough, as well as a pleasing value. Yes, ideal combo of plumpness and acidity. Flavor interest suggestive of at least some of the superior varieties in the cuvee. Consistent. 91/100.

Wine & Spirits 91/100. My notes: Solid granite foundation. Nice and dry and neat in cool 2021. Not as overtly fruity as the 2020. Sweetens up on the palate though. Less tannin and more acid than the delicious 2020. Same winemaker's hand, different growing season conditions. Very long, balanced finish. A worthy successor. 92/100. Liked by many attendees and considered ready to drink.

Vines planted 1900-1940; unfined, unfiltered. Oh, boy, like previous vintages this is all over the place for the usually close and reductive mencia. Combo of old vines and upbringing in quality cooperage. Large, complex, deep, broad, loaded. Special. Wow, just as ample and generous and wide ranging on the palate. A class variety and terroir in the right hands, and Perez is GOOD. Balanced, lengthy, even cellar worthy, though no major tannin obstructions to current drinking. 93+/100. Attendees agreed. Red Wine of the Night. 'Complex nose of blackberry, garrigue, flowers. 2021 acidity and grace. Never sits heavy; no palate fatigue. Lots of interest here. Good value.'

Est. 1974; all godello; vines 20-60 years old on the Right Bank of the Sil; aged 5 months on lees, 20% in seasoned cooperage. One ample godello. No wonder it's not the cheapest godello on the block. Ample yellow orchard fruit. Really swells the nostrils and sinuses with its presence. Lees and barrel time add to both flavor and texture complexity. Old vines concentration. Persistent aftertaste. This walks the godello walk, talks the godello talk. I/ve rarely tasted a better example. 93/100.

Dark red violet. Pungent and quite powerful in my Taster glass. The oak is still prominent, but the fruit basis is up to the challenge. They just haven't married completely yet. Full, young, mouth-filling. Suave with glycerol. Handsome future. 91+/100.

Native yeasts. A lot of oomph and generosity for high altitude tempranillo. Good deal. Yeah, this delivers varietal clarity and intensity. Got to have it. 92/100. $12 a bottle equivalent in liter.

That purple graciano color all the way. Fruity and spicy, hallmark. A surprisingly good take considering it's from Castilla, not Rioja. Full and intensely varietal. Probably the best graciano out there, though I've had an upscale one from Navarra. Certainly the quality and concentration is commensurate with the premium price, Castilla wise. 93/100.

Wine Enthusiast 97: 'This wine opens with aromas of dark cherries, as if they've been gently stewed in their own juice. This fruit core is subtly warmed by an infusion of mixed spices and the delicate astringency of tea leaves. Wildflowers weave through the profile, introducing a sweet, spicy floral aspect. The tannins are fine and well-integrated, providing structure without overwhelming the palate. Drink 2025 ? 2045.'

From vineyards in Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso. Medium ruby. Strong and hefty, as the Produttori's nebbiolos are apt to be. Looks expensive.until you sniff it. More than just a baby Barbaresco. An adolescent, at least. Classic aromas and flavors of cherry, tar, and rose. Fine acidity and great suavity. Will probably cellar well, if one can resist putting it right to use with hearty fare. This is a much more satisfying experience than mass produced, cheap Barolos and B'cos that can be seen in the same price range. 93+/100. Widely admired. Cellaring suggested. 'Lots of real nebbiolo fruit plus lots of hard tannins.' 'Proper nebbiolo in there, both in flavor and acidity.' 'All the classic notes: cherry, rose, tar.'

Est. 1874; one hectare vineyard on marl, planted in 1969; aged 30 months in foudres. As powerful as its alcohol statement (15%) suggests. Alba barbera dark, deep, peppery. Old vines; peels extract. 2021 freshness adds all the more interest. Wears its power well on the palate. No heat. Old vines meet cool vintage to form a unique expression of this steady favorite of mine. Another cellar candidate. 92+/100. Generally liked. 'Lots of juicy fruit. One of the better barberas I've had.' ' Very nice barbera. Great structure, fruit, tannins.' Orders taken.

Est. 1878; 10-25 year old vines in marl, clay, chalk; estate bottled. Impressively full bodied. Stretches the nostrils. Shows its marly background. The sense of fullness carries over to the palate. Unusually weighty in its class. The aromatics are correct, yet it is the sheer presence that justifies the price. As well as balance and length. 91+/100. Aromatics spread out and intensified with aeration. Well liked by attendees. Orders taken. 'White peach. Super rich and lovely flavors, with balance.'

Both fruity and bright. That's 2023. And there's plenty of varietal ID. Good flavor and varietal glycerol. Intriguing spicy highlights. This is first class. 92/100.

Corvina, rondinella, molinara. Appropriately medium ruby. Boy, that's as fresh a Bardolino as one could want. Sweet ripeness of 2022 also. Fresh, flavorful, smooth, well balanced. No tannin issues, of course, so this definitely could be served a cellar temperature. As attractive and faithful a Bardolino that I've tasted in quite some time. 91/100. Equally well received by attendees who admired its accuracy. 'Wow, spicy, lovely fruit, long, a bargain.' 'Wow, just as it should be: light, bright, high acid, crunchy; chill it a bit and serve with charcuterie.'

This cuvee of cabernet, merlot, and sangiovese, a creation of ace importer Neil Empson, was a favorite of mine for decades. I laid some down, and it aged exceptionally well for a wine in its price range. Then later vintages seemed to lighten up, to lose some of the former intensity, perhaps to achieve earlier drinkability. With Covid and the dearth of supplier trade shows during and after, it''s been several years since I've sampled a Monte Antico. The just-tasted 2019 is a revelation. Monte Antico is BACK! 91+/100.

Wine Spectator 94: 'A solidly built red introduced by aromas of mint, lavender and wild rosemary. Shows cherry, raspberry, earth, iron, sanguine and tobacco flavors allied to an almost viscous texture as this cruises to the long finish. Impressive now, yet will be better in three to five years. Best from 2026 through 2045. $40.'

Barrel aged 6 years in attics. Clear red brown color. Sweet dried fruits and nuts. Fresh acid. Surprisingly youthful. Yes, at age 10 plus, it has years--maybe decades--to go in bouquet development. Acid balances the sweetness. Perfectly agreeable now with many a non-chocolate dessert selection. 98+/100.

Wine Enthusiast 94: 'The nose strikes an acrobatic balance between floral and leathery, with aromas of roses, tar, black cherries, cloves, bitter orange and earth. The nose is more fruit-forward, with notes of cherry and currant, along with balancing undertones of licorice and dark chocolate. Dense, dusty tannins create a warm, lingering finish.'

Est. 1984; 30 year old vines; no malo. Very cool and racy. My kind of verdicchio. Like cool spring water. Like verdicchios of old. Total levity to the palate too. This is classic, and a quaffer. And an ideal match for all sorts of unadorned seafood. Not trying to be to big for its boots like a lot of its rivals. Perfect for current service. 92/100. Well liked by attendees. 'This is good - nice nose and flavor. Balanced.' 'Herb and mineral. Some citrus. Fuller and richer than the previous vintage. Good acidity.'

Est. 1996. Full red violet color. Wow, that's a really ample aglianico for Campania. More like a Vulture version. Deep aromas of black fruit, tar, and peppery spices. Surprisingly sweet and accommodating on the palate. The nose suggests more tannin. Unique and beguiling take Mealworthy, ageworthy. Lasting aftertaste. 92+/100.

Est. 1895; all negroamaro; aged 6 months in barriques. The name has geographic meaning; it's not appassimento. That spells out negroamaro, the nose black and bitter. Full and generous too. And rich in the mouth, with welcome dash of astringency at the end. A very flattering vintage of the perennial favorite. 92/100.

30-40 year old vines. Rich and rightful maraschino frappato nose. Good price. Correct varietal flavor and very racy acidity for the vintage. Mouthwatering aftertaste. Yes, a good deal indeed. 92/100.

60% syrah, 40% cab sauv. Aged a year in once used oak barrels. Maturing bouquet, firm structure yet. Again, the fruit is advanced to bottle bouquet. The structure is not obdurate at this stage, yet some tannin persists. Ambitious, impressive. 93+/100.

Half each cab sauv, syrah. Aged a year in new oak barrels. This shows more barrel influence. And more material concentration. Reserve take, indeed. Will need longer cellaring. More fruit on the palate than the nose. This is first class. Not as backward as the nose suggests. Reserve large and complex. Even more impressive. 94+/100.

Family winery. That's valid. This has a sense of Region de Sauvignon Loire pinot noir cool climate style. Yeah, you won't get the intensity of Sancerre rose. Still, it fits the pattern. The flavors are more intense than the aromas and faithful to grape and region. One of several surprise best values this evening. 91/100.

60% grenache, 20% each syrah, cinsault; on limestone, clay, sand, and cobbles. Full color. Virtually a light red wine appearance. That's supported by a nose of full power, presence, and aromatic density. Wow. One of the 'biggest' in the series. And all good about it. Full bodied and full flavored young Tavel. This is not one of the Tavels you''ll have to keep into its second year to get your full rewards, although it's perfectly capable of aging and improving another 1-2 years. Yet it's just so damn generous now! 92+/100. Top reviews from attendees. 'Very Tavel flavor.' 'One big wine.' 'Lovely fruit. Grenache raspberry on the nose, syrah on the finish. Nice now but ready for winter service.'

Grenache, syrah, cinsault, carignan. At the foot of Mont St. Victoire. Lovely pink glow. Full, already accomplished, and up to the standards of this, one of my favorite Provence roses. The nose is both substantial and pretty. Flavorful, harmonious, well textured. Fits the Houchart pattern. 92/100.

Tasting Panel 94: 'Chardonnay-dominant Champagne from the Montagne de Reims, which spent four years on the lees and contains about one-third reserve wine. Buoyed by vivid, almost chewy acidity and a soft mousse, lime shimmers across the characteristically silken palate before gesturing toward lemongrass on the finish. $65.'

Tasting Panel 93: 'Delicate bubbles burst to reveal chamomile, papaya, and lime chiffon. Mouth-filling, with a base of wet stone leading to a palate of complexity and vibrancy. $25.'

Single vineyard. Extra brut. Upscale. Fine mousse, lots of finesse to its glera profile. Justified to be singled out. Very dry indeed but not austere. This has real class in its field and earns its price. 93/100.

13.5%. Muscats frontignac and gordo, traminer, others.18.8 RS. Medium golden brown. Sharp ginger nip. Definitely different from Stones Green Ginger. Sweetness and ginger sharpness are well coordinated. A class product. Lasting finish. 92/100.

15%; base wine from Lacuesta's Rioja vineyards; 22 aromatic herbs and spices added. A bit lighter (and less expensive) version of Lacuesta's regular rojo, which involves even more botanicals. Not to diminish it. This will have its fans. Stylistically, it's similar to the Aperol versus Campari. Sweet enough for sure, and clearly not as barrel influenced as the top Spanish rojo vermouths. A pleasant, non-challenging rojo for drinking by the glass. 90/100. Popular with attendees for drinking on its own.