WT021710-01. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH GRUNER VELTLINER PEPPER, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) None of us could find the ‘pepper’, though I have gotten a peppery nip from gru ves before, a sort of weissbier sensation. This is understated apple and lima./ Soft and easy like the Wachau a couple of weeks ago. Other 08s have been firmer. The finish is cool, brisk, and dry though. 15.8.
Price
each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-02. 08 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, DOMAINE BERTHET-RAYNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 45% each clairette and bourboulenc, 10% grenache blanc. Organically grown. That’s a lot of bourboulenc, and it shows its very crisp, green-grape aroma./ Yes, green-fruited bourboulenc makes a strong statement, even adding some astringency. But that’s not all. With aeration, there’s preserved lemon, stone fruits, loquat, almond, smoke, duck fat,
and honeysuckle. Quite a show. All the varieties are chiming in now. Some glycerol on entry, and a stony minerality to the finish. Lots of entertainment. Still on the compact side. Give it more bottle age. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-03. 08 VALLEY OF THE MOON SONOMA PINOT BLANC - (U.S.) Oh, yes! Rich as usual yet pinot blanc green-fruited too. Powerful, succulent. Waxy. True./ Rich fruit filling within a solid frame. The moderation in acidity of pinot blanc, especially warmer climate pinot blanc. Great juice. Well, this is fully up to the quality level of the 07 and 06. Well liked by the group. 16.4.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-04. 08 KENWOOD SONOMA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Well proportioned measures of oak and fruit. Appley chardonnay; spicy and flattering oak seasonings. Stone fruits and melons too. Gentle on the approach./ Comes on with lots of sweet oak spices and malolactic creaminess. The fruit remains perky though, so the wine has spine as well as flesh. The usual reliability here. 15.9.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-05. 09 CALCU COLCHAGUA VALLEY ROSE - (CHILE) 50% malbec, 40% syrah, 10% carmenere. And ‘100% sauvignon blanc’. The desk sample a couple of weeks back showed me red fruit–strawberry candy and cranberry. However today, we all agreed, that if blindfolded we would have guessed sauvignon blanc. Crisp and fresh gooseberry, grapefruit, and orange peel aromas./ Soft and sweetish on entry. Then the acidity shows up. Definitely
sauvignon like. One taster guesses that this was the product of the green harvest, where even red grapes have tart white fruit character. Hard to believe this came from the same batch as the desk sample. 16.0, as an appealing, sauvignon-like wine. But shows no rose character.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-06. 07 KENWOOD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Real pinot cherry and strawberry aromas. RRV race and class. Convincing pinot./ Both rich and racy. Mulberry, tea leaf, creamy chocolate. Peels, snap, acid, juice, race. And glycerol to enrich the texture. An out and out bargain in RRV pinot. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-07. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH ZWEIGELT CHERRY, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) OK, I can find some ‘cherry’ here, unlike the ‘pepper’ in the gru ve. Sweet-smelling and aiming to please./ Yes, cherry, and berries too. Dry and full. Not a bit green-fruited like many an Austrian red. Well constructed. Real depth. One big zweigelt. 16.0.
Price each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-08. 05 TOAD HOLLOW RESERVE RICHARD MCDOWELL VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Dark fruits, smoke, black licorice, brett. A lot of oak over merlot black cherry character./ Moving into a mature phase aromatically, while some manageable 05 tannins remain. Strong elements of oak and brett. Reserve style. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-09. 08 LUBERON GRENACHE-SYRAH, LE PARADOU - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Did Luberon drop the ‘Cotes’ like Ventoux? I guess. 60/40. Fresh and crisp, and a bit lean in the 08 way. But this has cool-vintage garrigue! Crisp, sweet berry fruit. Good stuff!/ Oh, yes! A fabulous display of garrigue and cool berry fruit. Good acidity, of course. Some astringency to work out, or to appreciate with food. Another good 08 southern Rhone
discovery. Well liked by the group. 16.3+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-10. 07 COTEAUX DE BESSILLES CUVEE RESERVEE, DOMAINE SAINT MARTIN DE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Starts out surprisingly cool and compact for 07. Licorice laced. Well built. With aeration the 07 fruit ripeness starts to come out. Even a touch of singed fruit./ Bold and full. This is really substantial. But it needs more bottle age to allow all its aromas and flavors to form. Unusually compact for the vintage. 16.4+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $13.99
WT021710-11. 08 COTES DU RHONE L’OMBRE DES FONTAINES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault. Sweet fruited nose for 08. Strong too. Sweet licorice./ More sweet licorice. Dark, secretive qualities of 08. Yes, terse and tight on the palate. Needs time. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-12. 08 COTES DU RHONE DOMAINE MAS DU BOUQUET, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% carignan. Somewhat reduced to start. Opens to show woodsy tones, spiced meat, and cedar./ Tight on entry, but sweetens up some with warming and aerating in the mouth. No reduction to the palate. Good volume, power, glycerol, especially for the vintage. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-13. 07 VALREAS - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VAL DES ROIS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Spicy and powerful (14%). Tight. Much bigger and more forceful than the 04./ Indeed, full body and texture. Much more material richness than the 04. Real strength and depth. Fine acidity here, as always. Yes! The group was impressed. 16.5+.
Price each (at time of tasting)
$15.99
WT021710-14. 07 CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES ALTOVINUM, EVODIA - (SPAIN) Sweet fruit up front. Powerful (14.5%). Ripe and large. Blackberry, strawberry, cinnamon, bitter chocolate, even flowers./ Sweet and sassy red fruit. Plummy and cohesive. Good acidity. Stylish and seductive. Great price. Popular with the group. 16.2+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
WT021710-15. 07 CASTILLA TEMPRANILLO GRANROJO, ROJO MOJO - (SPAIN) Very ripe and bold on the approach. Settles down to show good fruit quality. Not too ripe or powerful after all./ Well balanced. The fruit sweetness is attractive and nicely measured. Better than previous versions. 15.8.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-16. 07 ESPANA ESTE, BODEGAS ALTO ALMANZORA - (SPAIN) Generous and good fruit, wholesome fruit. Sweet strawberry./ Sweet and flowing. Raspberry, cassis, walnut brownie. Good acidity and richness in balance. Best ever. 16.3.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-17. 09 EMILIANA NATURA RAPEL VALLEY GEWURZTRAMINER - (CHILE) Really quite full (14%). Genuine and generous gewurz aroma profile. Lychee, peach, tonic, ginger. Much more to give than the 08. Flashes Alsace power and intensity./ Yes, much larger and more expressive than the 08. Has gewurz astringency. Short of Alsace on the glycerol. Still, well priced and impressive New World take. 16.2.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-18. MOLDOVA CAHOR - (MOLDOVA) The Orthodox Church of Moldova used to import wine from Cahors and sweeten it with honey. Thus the origin of the name. Sweet and somewhat raisined and molasses like, which is all attractive. Liquid dates. Cherry blossom highlights. Good power (16%) to keep it from being too sticky./ Raisin, raisinette, honey, spice, power. Port like. Competes well with the cheaper Aussie tawnies. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
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Wednesday, September 29, 2010 WT092910-01. VOUVRAY BRUT, FRANCOIS PINON - (SPARKLING) Fine mousse. Delicate bottle bouquet complex. Exotic range of spiced apple, melon, stone fruit, and bread dough. At an attractive stage of development./ Ripe green apple and nicely evolved and lush nuttiness. Taut, ripe acid carriage. Dry but not austere. Has some plushness. Outstanding value. 16.5. WT092910-02. 09 FRASCATI SUPERIORE, FONTANA CANDIDA - (ITALY) Good and full and rich for Frascati. That’s 09 talking. Fabulously expressive and giving. Possesses an urge to please. Apple, pear, melon, and light citrus ring./ Very flavorful. Juicy stone fruits and citrus. Citrus peel zestiness. Long, crisp, refreshing finish. Well, this is hardly typical Frascati; it’s larger than life. But who’s complaining?! Certainly not the group, which regarded this by far the best vintage ever in the famous series. 16.7. WT092910-03. 09 VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO, KRIS - (ITALY) Fresh, appley, peels. 09 ripeness tempered by a sense of high altitude crispness and compactness.. Better than the 08. Tingles./ Plump and tingly both. Rich, stylish, creamy, expressive. Yes! 09 flavorful, juicy. Long and distinctive peach-skin aftertaste. 16.5. WT092910-04. 09 FETZER CALIFORNIA SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Understated, delicate, ethereal. Sweet orange rind./ Pleasant and juicy. Good acidity, especially for the California appellation. Makes a refreshing glass of wine. 15.2. WT092910-05. 09 GROOT CONSTANTIA CONSTANTIA SAUVIGNON BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Vital and refreshing, with citrus peel verve and aromatic penetration. Grass, pepper, capsicum, chalk, and lime./ Full, juicy, flavorful. Ripe peach, yellow berries, grass, and peppers mild and tangy. Mineral edge. The right combo of feels and flavors for a Cape sauvignon. Long finish. 16.3. WT092910-06. 08 VENTOUX BLANC QUINTESSENCE, CHATEAU PESQUIE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% roussanne, 20% clairette. Aroma aging from fresh to dried fruit, including apricot. Aging well. Rich, with full presence (13%) and pungency./ Aromatic in the mouth too. Ventilating. Flavorful. Unique. Adventuresome. 16.4. WT092910-07. 08 BIERZO MENCIA CUATRO PASOS, BODEGAS MARTIN SARMIENTO - (SPAIN) Classic dark and peppery mencia. But not dry and mean in youth like some. Broker Eric Solomon sees to that. 3-D fruit. Rich and youthful. Black currant, dark berries, smoke, green olive, cedar, black pepper, tobacco, woods. Fluent and complex for young mencia./ Fresh and joyous black fruits with big smoke and olive highlights. Fine-grained tannin and dark fruit mark it a young 08 mencia. Good finishing grip. Classic, food-worthy, age-worthy. 16.4+. WT092910-08. 08 SHADY LANE COOP DE ROUGE LEELANAU PENINSULA RED - (U.S.) Oh, boy! Spicy, fruity. Pumped up. Good oak complex I hadn’t noticed before. Raspberry, spiced cherry, clove, floral overtones. / Plush fruit. Full flavored. Well integrated oak. Good acidity. Long and clinging in a welcome fashion. 16.5. WT092910-09. 08 MUSAR CUVEE ROUGE BEKAA VALLEY RED - (LEBANON) Cinsault, cabernet sauvignon, syrah. Fruity, deep, spicy. Cherry and nutmeg. Dry and fine. Astute and balanced./ Well framed. Fine textured. Not a lot of flavor intensity now, but its admirable composure promises good bouquet development. I like its poise and confidence. 16.4+. WT092910-10. 06 TOSCANA MODUS, RUFFINO - (ITALY) 50% sangiovese, 25% each cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Ripe and rich fruits with a pretty, pretty oak aura. Appealing sangiovese brightness, merlot cherry-berry concentration, and cabernet density./ Discreet and balanced. Sweet, dark fresh and dried fruits form the basis. Oak vanillin and spices. Tobacco, anise, and leather extras. 06 form and quality. Well composed overall, with 06 balance, poise, and potential. The longer it airs, the better it becomes. 91+/100. WT092910-11. 08 JOEL GOTT 815 CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Evolving for the positive since first tasted a few months back. The 08 fruit is still dark but not mean. The oak has become better married to the fruit, and spicy rather than woody. Blackberry, peppercorn, and sandalwood aromas./ Chewy, generous, well balanced. 08 dryness and tannin still to resolve. Needs additional bottle age to loosen up. Improving though. 16.0+. WT092910-12. 07 MINERVOIS TRADITION, CHATEAU DU DONJON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) This too is improving in bottle. More fruit now, and more spice too. Less dry and compact. Dark berries, plus some cassis, spice, and woodsy elements./ Again, the cassis theme. Dried fruit and game notes. Tannic still. 2-3 years to go. 16.3+. WT092910-13. 08 COTES DU RHONE, KERMIT LYNCH - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Well formed southern black fruit, smoke, and tobacco, with good give and volume for 08, and nice peppercorn spiciness./ The blackness and reserve of 08 compared to the 07. Woodsy. Better in 6 months to a year. 15.7+. WT092910-14. 07 VENTOUX QUINTESSENCE, CHATEAU PESQUIE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% syrah, 20% grenache. The full richness of 07 and the Quintessence cuvee. Deep, sweet berry, with bright, refined floral overtones. Cherry, potpourri, smoke, spice, sandalwood. Lots of verve. Certainly fulfills expectations. Large scaled (15%). Ripe, but not too ripe./ All that and more. Yes, sweet, deep, exotic, intense, focused. Layers of scented fruits, spices, and flowers. Yes, big, ripe, tannic, full, long. Great! And promises 2+ years of further development. Another 07 for the ages. 17.0+. WT092910-15. 08 PARINGA SOUTH AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) 08 dense, sweet black fruit up front. Some black currant./ Rich, smoky, meaty. Lots of power for the money. Rich and generous. One of the best $10 shirazes. 16.0+. WT092910-16. 07 GROOT CONSTANTIA CONSTANTIA SHIRAZ - (SOUTH AFRICA) Dense, compact black raspberry, with oak and leather. One of the meatiest Cape shirazes ever./ Lovely, rich, intense, meaty, bretty. All positive. This rocks! 16.8+. WT092910-17. 09 MOSEL ESTATE RIESLING, ST. URBANS-HOF - (GERMANY) Wow! This is great, reductive winemaking! Grip and extract of an 08 without the heavy framing. More lilt. Ideal 09.composition. Apple, citrus, stone fruits. Brightness, beauty, charm. Nicely etched./ 09 lush peach-apricot fruit. Really rich and loaded for a Mosel. All the same, very bright, pretty, scented, uplifting. A rewarding experience. Best vintage yet. 16.9. WT092910-18. TABOR HILL MICHIGAN CHERRY - (FRUIT) From Balaton cherries, I’ve just learned. I guessed montmorency yesterday. Better go back to cherry wine school. Good fresh cherry aroma with maraschino suggestions. Certainly from the 2010 crop./ Vigorous. Cherry, maraschino, marzipan, mocha, and almond flavors. Cherry pie in a glass. Very nice sweet-acid balance. Deserves its Michigan Wine Competition Gold Medal. Table service options, or make a Michigan ‘Kir’. 16.8.
Wednesdy, September 22, 2010 WT092210-01. 09 COTES DE THAU TERRE ET MER, HENRI DE RICHEMER - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 100% terret. Lots of personality, richness of texture on the nose. Aromatic variegation, range. Melon, pear, and dried fruits. Tangy citrus verve. Sassy, stony, minerally./ Again, very tangy citrus up front. Then comes ripe, round nectarine taste. Fruit fragrance plus light spice and flower accents. Creamy-waxy in the middle, dry on
the finish, which is long lasting. Both lively and rich; the yin and yang of the best 09 whites. Generous, even eager. Unique, intriguing. Well liked by the group. 16.3. WT092210-02. 09 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, DOMAINE DE L’AURIERE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Crisp and racy. Apple, hyssop, catnip, mint, mineral. Cool, tingly, and penetrating./ Ethereal, seductive, nuanced, full of finesse. Has grip too. And a sense of presence and power despite only 11.5% strength. That’s the max for Muscadet, I believe. Dry and astute on the finish. Extreme usefulness. 16.2+. WT092210-03. 09 SAUMUR BLANC LES POUCHES, VIGNERONS DE SAUMUR - (FRANCE LOIRE) Good, full quince chenin aroma. Touches of melon and mineral. Juicy, textured./ Full, succulent, delicious combo of chenin flavors. Good, ripe 09 fruit core. Yin and yang textures. Well poised. 16.4+. WT092210-04. 09 CHATEAU TERTRE DE LAUNAY, ENTRE DE MERS - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 1/3 each semillon, sauvignon blanc, muscadelle. Full, expressive, wide ranging aroma spectrum illustrative of the varietal complex. Dried flowers overtones. Semillon gives honey and pollen dust aspects./ 09 fruit ripeness and magnification. Full semillon texture. Cloaked acidity. Pippy muscadelle foil. 15.8. WT092210-05. 09 OC BLANC, LA CLOSERIE DES LYS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, vermentino. The vermentino comes right out at ya! Then the sauvignon comes on with cat and cut. Really lively and penetrating./ Oh, boy! Intense, racy, cool, juicy, long. Grass, citrus peel, wet stone. Cohesive and useful. Fabulous value. 16.6. WT092210-06. 09 OC CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE ANTUGNAC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Apple and citrus, and their peels. Apple blossom overtone. Vigorous, full textured. Like an 08./ Cool-climate chardonnay apple-citrus flavors. The relative softness of many an 09 French white. Enjoy through fall and winter. 16.0. WT092210-07. 08 SANCERRE CLOS DE CHAUDENAY, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Grapefruit peel aroma is prominent. Big, sweet, rich peach and citrus presence classic to this cuvee./ Rich-textured, with stylish, racy acid carriage. Good calcaire vein. Maturing. Enjoy over the cool/cold months. It’s one hearty sauvignon blanc. 15.5. WT092210-08. 09 PFALZ ESTATE RIESLING, BURKLIN-WOLF - (GERMANY) Peach, apple aromas. Citrus peel zing. Well extracted. Reductive winemaking. A vigorous face of 09./ Very juicy and very flavorful. Plenty of dry extract. Compact, concentrated fruit core. Great winemaking. Fabulous riesling. Pushes the 08. Dry, engaging, tangy, meal-worthy. 17.0+. WT092210-09. 09 SANCERRE ROSE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Full smoky-pitchy peels aromas. Black cherry, blackberry, and rose cool-climate pinot impressions./ Yes, dark peels extracts form character as well as color. Not a particularly fruity style of rose. Dry, austere, almondy, meal-worthy. Popular with the group. 16.0. WT092210-10. 09 CHATEAU DE FONTENILLE, BORDEAUX CLAIRET - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 95% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon. Sweet juice, with just the right peels contribution. Much more accommodating than in summer. Cherry-berry, pomegranate, cranberry, and sweet-grass perfumes./ Yes, much more fulfilled, softer now. Some astringency yet (what’s clairet without it?); that will go well with food. Makes it refreshing too. Clarity,
intensity, class. Clairet beauty, purity. Good peels raciness. Plenty expressive. Well liked by the group. 16.2+. WT092210-11. 09 TAVEL PRIMA DONNA, DOMAINE MABY - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Grenache and cinsault. Extremely youthful to start. Becomes a lesson in aeration, as its aromas and textures broadened and deepen for hours–even days–after opening., the aromas becoming increasingly intense and fragrant of wild strawberry and spiced apple./ Wow! Full force of delicious strawberry fruit. Full power of Tavel. This just knocks my socks
off! Just be sure to give it a vigorous decanting before service this fall. Or save it for next fall. 17.0+. WT092210-12. 09 OC ROUGE, LA CLOSERIE DES LYS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% merlot, 20% each syrah, cabernet sauvignon. Dark complexioned. The usual dark face of Med merlot. The fruit is 09 plentiful though, and something gives it a nice spiciness./ Primary blackberry fruit flavor, plus tobacco and smoke. Dry and compact to start, with taut acidity and some tannin. Gains fruit padding with aeration time, becoming really
quite delightful for current table service. 16.2. WT092210-13. 09 OC PINOT NOIR, DOMAINE ANTUGNAC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet, rich, true, spicy cherry pinot. Mulled cherries. Intriguing cocoa and clove overtones. Some oak influence seems to be making its mark./ Peels extracts make it less pinot plush than the nose promised. Pretty high acidity showing at present. Good cool-climate pinot character though, and likely to soften nicely. 16.1+. WT092210-14. 08 CHATEAU TAYAC PLAISANCE, MARGAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Elegant, blackberry-tinged Margaux face of cabernet sauvignon with 08's firm background. Light oak seasoning. Cedar airs too./ Full, dense, and smoky. The oak vanillin is a bit up front on the palate, but it will likely settle in. Sweet oak spices. Behind its youthful oaky veneer, are finesse-ful Margaux cabernet attributes. The tannins are pleasantly
ripe. Will improve for 3 years plus. 16.6+. WT092210-15. 08 CLOS DES QUATRE VENTS, MARGAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 100% new oak. Cedar, Cavendish tobacco, and cassis. Pedigree and elegance of fine French oak plus Margaux fruit perfumes./ This too has some vanillin up front, but the oak shows more finesse overall. Good acidity. Not too 08 tough; rather, it’s stylish and savory. Will age well. Real class here. 16.9+. WT092210-16. 08 CROZES HERMITAGE, ALAIN GRAILLOT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Whoa! Black pepper uber alles!! As it airs, dried and candied fruits and fruit-cake aromas form./ Yes! Pepper and bramble. Sooo racy, spicy. Enjoy it now. Or keep for more intrigue. Well liked by the group. 17.0+. WT092210-17. 08 CROZES HERMITAGE DOMAINE DE LISES, MAXIME GRAILLOT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) By Alain’s son. Seems to be some oak here. This is more international. Good northern Rhone raspberry fruit though./ Tight and concentrated. Sweet red and black fruits, plus dark chocolate. Syrah berry and pepper too. Strong, direct, modern. 16.5+. WT092210-18. 08 TOSCANA ROSSA, LA MASSA - (ITALY) At Panzano, in the dead center of Chianti Classico. Sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot. 08 contrite at first, but fills out with air. 08 dark fruited, but it’s not sullen like many an 08 Tuscan rosso. With further airing, it becomes full and dense, flaunting all sorts of red fruits, plus cassis. Spicy barrique extras, like clove and cinnamon. Fennel too. Complex nose
indeed../ Strong, dense, muscular. Good grip. Not a lush palate at this youthful stage, but not a dry, tough one either. Tremendous future. 17.2+. WT092210-19. 08 JOHN ANTHONY JAM CALIFORNIA RED - (CALIFORNIA) 90% petit verdot, 10% petite sirah. Sweet and ripe. Not 08 tough. Not jammy either./ Yes, sweet and sassy warm climate petit verdot like that Aussie, Yard Dog Red, which is 70% petit verdot if I remember right. Better than Yard Dog. Well balanced too. 16.3.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010 WT091510-01. 09 COTES DE GASCOGNE COLOMBELLE, PLAIMONT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Taut, flinty, and penetrating. Crisp apple and lime. Becomes pungent and generous with aeration./ Permeates the senses. Rich flavors and mouthfeel. Exceptional acidity for type and vintage. Very much commendable. 15.9. WT091510-02. 08 CHATEAU RECOUGNE, BORDEAUX SAUVIGNON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Plump, with orange, grain, and lanolin aromas./ Rich body. Good capsicum sauvignon elements and dusky vinosity. Entering maturity. 15.0. WT091510-03. 09 J. LOHR CYPRESS CENTRAL COAST SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Sour Patch Kids, tart lemon. Hint of jalapeno. Refreshing./ The relative softness of California sauvignon. That hot pepper nip keeps it honest. Not bad. 14.8. WT091510-04. 09 GUENOC CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.) Some sulphur to start. Airs off readily. Nutty, satiny, waxy, full./ Yes, body and heft. A generous wine. Good with food. 15.8. WT091510-05. 09 GEYSER PEAK CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.) Clarity, delicacy, homogeneity, dexterity. Fine varietal statement./ Crisp, with pear and apple flavors. A good example. 15.8. WT091510-06. 09 J. LOHR CYPRESS CENTRAL COAST CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Bright and proper chardonnay fruit. Low to no oak./ Central Coast cool, with apple and apple blossom rather than the usual Central Coast citrus emphasis. Always an attractive value. 15.8. WT091510-07. 08 RHEINHESSEN DORNFELDER TROCKEN, NONNENKELLER - (GERMANY) Sweet and ripe on the nose. Black raspberry, plum, tobacco./ Burnished, smoky patina. Traditional dornfelder openness. Not 08 contrite. Vigorous. Effective. A pleasant glass. Will be welcome at the Thanksgiving table. 15.6. WT091510-08. 09 COTES DE GASCOGNE ROUGE COLOMBELLE, PLAIMONT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Nice and cool and crisp on the approach, typical of the Gascogne rouge style. At the same time, engagingly ripe 09 fruit. Blackberry and potpourri spiciness./ Good body and strength. 09 richness. The vintage really lifts this. Gamy note. Properly ripe, presentable, and enjoyable Gascogne rouge. Ready for the table. Good value. 15.9. WT091510-09. 07 CHINON LA BARONNIE MADELEINE, COULY-DUTHEIL - (FRANCE LOIRE) Taut in youth. Dark fruits and tobacco./ Feral cabernet franc elements. Very tight laced Loire rouge of a cool vintage. Clearly in need of more bottle age. Well crafted. 16.0+. WT091510-10. 10 SANTA JULIA ORGANIC MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Lots of oak and vanilla. Cedar and sandalwood too./ Sweet, sassy, simple, and straightforward. Wins your heart. Will 2010 be another 2008? Hope so. Good acid foil completes the picture. Effective. 15.5+. WT091510-11. 08 VAUCLUSE, LE BOUSQUET DU SANGLIER - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Big berry aromas, with flowers and spices too. Good intensity./ Stylish fruit approach, with flowers and sandalwood accents. Dark 08 fruit orientation, but more ripeness and substance than the average. A little tannin to shed still, but overall ripe and ready. 15.6+.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 WT090810-01. 09 DASHWOOD MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Grassy, catty, pungent. Bright and fresh. With air come pineapple, citrus, and tropical nuances./ Grass and grapefruit tingle on entry. Zesty and vital, finely tuned. 15.8. WT090810-02. 09 BRANCOTT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Sulphur dulls the nose some. Strange at this age. Was it under screwcap? Forgot to note./ No sulphur on the palate. Good, citrusy acid zing. The palate is bright and racy. The fresh acidity lingers. Liked by the group. 15.8. WT090810-. 08 VOUVRAY, CHATEAU DE VALMER - (FRANCE LOIRE) Right. Apple, melon. Some lime and mint./ Sweet and youthful demi sec mode. The acidity remains coated. But shows good calcaire grip. Balanced and promising. Reliable Vouvray source. Liked by the group. 16.3+. WT090810-. 08 TERRAS DO SADO MOSCATEL LISA, QUINTA DO TOJO - (PORTUGAL) From moscatel graudo, which is muscat alexandria, the variety of Moscatel de Setubal. Very limey, as dry alexandrias tend to be. The sweet ones are more like orange. Lime peel oil too./ Flavors of apricot, sachet, spice, mandarin orange, kumquat, and jasmine. The peel extracts give a pleasant, refreshing, bitter aspect. Dry and quite powerful. The
alcohol is cool though, not hot. I’m thinking Thai cuisine. Well liked by the group. 16.6. WT090810-. 08 TOSCANA, INNOMINATO - (ITALY) 70% sangiovese, 15% each cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Spicy dried red and black fruits, especially cherries. Reads sangiovese. The darker fruits lurking in the background speak for 08 and the Bordeaux varieties.. Some time in barrel variegation. Floral overtones too./ Good dried fruit, leather, wood, and barrel aged flavors. Good astringency of 08. Lively acid carriage. 08
tight, but much more three dimensional than many of the 08 Tuscans tasted to date. Very popular with the group. 16.2+. WT090810-. 08 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, UMANI RONCHI - (ITALY) Dark and hearty, full Monte with 08 black licorice and black pepper. Plenty of sweet fruit./ Hearty and spicy. Red currant and tobacco. Some oak amidst the bountiful fruit. Good tannin, grip, material. Nice value, for sure. Liked by the group. 16.0+. WT090810-. 09 CONCHA Y TORO XPLORADOR VALLE CENTRAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Some H2S, reduction to start. With aeration, turns black and deep. And spicy. Very broad and rangy spectrum of aromas for the price. Including charred wood notes: toffee and sandalwood. The quality of the 09 fruit speaks./ Sweet, candied fruit. Seductive oak derivatives. Good acidity, fine tannin. No reduction on the palate, as is often the
case. Nice value. 15.8+. WT090810-. 09 TERRA ANDINA VALLE CENTRAL CARMENERE - (CHILE) Oh, boy! The usual Terra Andina range and exotica. Great work with oak here. At this price, it must be chips or staves or some shortcut or other. Who cares?! They’ve got it down. All the right carmenere stuff too. The seductive stuff. Dark plum, vanilla, mocha. Lots of dimension. Best vintage of this yet./ Oh, boy! Sassy oak spices. Rich carmenere fruit. Fine
acidity, fine tannin. Yes! Bargain. 16.6. WT090810-. 09 ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Concentrated nose. Tar, licorice, iodine. Very firm./ Dark and extracted, intense. Vanilla, chocolate, mocha. 09 taut, but reveals elegance and class. Age it. 15.8+. WT090810-. 08 COTES DU RHONE VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE DE L’ESPIGOUETTE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Racy, with the typical range of garrigue and warm spices smells. Shows elegance, style, perfume. The fruit is sweet for an 08. Bravo!/ Race, spice, garrigue, dried flowers, candied fruits, fruitcake. Some 08 bitter herbs. No lack of Espigouette character, but the vintage definitely paints a relatively dry, compact textural scene
in youth. I expect the wine to loosen up, to gain breadth and depth with 1-2 years’ aging. 16.0+. WT090810-. 08 PELEE ISLAND LATE HARVEST ONTARIO VIDAL - (CANADA) Pleasantly fruity nose. However, it’s neither intense nor varietally expressive. Just pleasing./ Yes, a bit dilute. Pleasant sweetness, countered by cool climate acidity and a little grip. Rather ho hum, middle of the road. Certainly doesn’t scream Late Harvest. There have been better vintages of this. 15.7. WT090810-. 03 OSBORNE LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT - (FORTIFIED) Racy, powerful, enticing. Dark fruits, prune, raisin, spiced meat, cassis, cinnamon./ The sweetness on the palate balances the power. Pleasant, roasted fruit flavors. 16.8+.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010 WT090110-01. 09 VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO DUE TORRI, CESARI - (ITALY) Mmm! Tingly, etching, crisp, right. Apple and pear. Nuts too, plus some floral and botanical highlights./ Cool and stylish, with the right degree of 09 richness. Clean and comfortable as new white sheets. Liked by the group. 16.0. WT090110-02. 09 COTES CATALANES BLANC COTE EST, DOMAINE LAFAGE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% grenache blanc, 30% chardonnay, 20% marsanne. Wonderful perfume. But of which grape? None of these is noted for the tropical and apricot airs of this wine./ Yes, fragrant in the mouth too (dried flowers and yellow fruits). And viscous–that’s marsanne. The right grenache blanc and 09 plumpness. And good acid and chalk/mineral brace
too. Taut
and penetrating, perky and refreshing finish. A rightful successor to the fine 08. I checked out the Parker 90 notes on the 08 and found that some of that grenache blanc is actually grenache gris from 100 year old vines. That may account for the fragrance. Well liked by the group. 16.4. WT090110-03. 09 DRYLANDS MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Very, very juicy and insistent gooseberry and ruby red grapefruit. Also lime, grass, pepper, and peapod. Distinctive sauvignon./ Juicy, garrulous, alert, edgy, refreshing. Comes on like gang-busters. Long finish. 16.9. WT090110-04. 09 SPY VALLEY MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Less expressive, exuberant. More confined, compact./ Good grapefruit taste, but subtle. Not nearly as boisterous as the former. More controlled. Good acidity. Ripe, juicy, and engaging. Has panache. Preferred by the group. 16.0+. WT090110-05. 09 RUEDA VERDEJO OLD VINES, BODEGAS SHAYA - (SPAIN) Lovely, aromatic fruits and flowers, plus citrus zest. Rich and nicely fragrant, spicy. Vigorous, penetrating./ Yes, full and vigorous, juicy. Good texture. Penetrating richness plus lively acidity and mineral edge. Well liked by the group. 16.2+. WT090110-06. 09 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full, loaded, rich, ripe, dense, rambunctious, expressive. Fine gamay berry definition and brightness. And there’s still plenty more in the tank. Black cherry, fruit peels, peppercorn and other spices. Large...and inviting!/ Yes, the complete Villages package. Lots of extract and texture, and firm, compact Jadot constitution, while coming across smooth
and welcome.
Total Villages. Better than the fine 08. What a vintage! Well liked by the group. 17.0. WT090110-07. 09 VENTOUX, LA VIEILLE FERME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Grenache, syrah, and cinsault. Dark, rustic, husky. Generous purple plum and peel, with a smoky patina./ Yes, lots of texture. Ripe, sweet berries and touch of pitch. Full power and warmth of Ventoux. Well liked by the group, which considered it a fine value. 15.7. WT090110-08. 09 DON ALFONSO VALLE DEL MAIPE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Sweet, pure cabernet blackberry and some black currant too. Class oak, well measured and fully complementary. Shows time in cooperage evolution too. And the quality of the vintage’s fruit./ Yes, fine fruit quality. Great oak harmony. Whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Worth at least $5 more a bottle. Even the Europhiles were in awe of the
quality
and value this presented. 16.4. WT090110-09. 05 CHIANTI RISERVA, FONTEROSSO - (ITALY) Another rich classic in the series. Dried cherry and orange peel. Sweet dried fruits./ Plus anise, tobacco, wood, leather, and tar. Full, rich, and right. This is Chianti Riserva! Deep and rich textured. Strong too. These sure do deliver. Well liked by the group. 16.8+. WT090110-10. 07 CHIANTI RUFINO RISERVA, RENZO MASI - (ITALY) Good stuff. 07 bright fruit transmogrified by riserva time in cooperage. Rufina crispness, neatness, refinement. Sweet, dense dried fruits and wood spices./ Yes, lots of sweet dried fruits, well tempered by time in cooperage. Attractive texture, richness, and oak savors. The usual high standards here, always incorporating the originality of each vintage. Useful
now, and
will improve 1-2 years. Well liked by the group. 16.7+. WT090110-11. 08 CALITERRA TRIBUTO BLOCK & BOLDO VINEYARD COLCHAGUA CARMENERE - (CHILE) Whoa! Full charge of American oak and vanillin. Sweet and creamy./ More oak spices and less vanillin on the palate. Yes, pleasing oak flavors. Plenty of dark, ripe fruit, suggestive of wholesome carmenere. The sweetness and creaminess should assuage the palates of critics who taste 200 wines a day. You know who they are. Liked by
the group.
16.1+. WT090110-12. 07 VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE MONTI GARBI RIPASSO, TENUTA SANT’ ANTONIO - (ITALY) Rich, dark, purple fruits. Asian spices. Porty, with soft ripasso skin elements./ Plenty of Cavendish tobacco and spices. Ripasso richness and softness kept in line by taut acidity. Rightful build and fortitude. Well composed, well mannered, even pretty. More to come. Well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT090110-13. 09 PIESPORTER MICHELSBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, SAINT CHARLES - (GERMANY) Nice, racy, tingly Mosel riesling. Apples galore. The backwater vineyards keep it cool and edgy in 2009. Has the class of the better sites./ Full spatlese sweetness. Flavorful. Mosel apple blossom and Piesport area peach. Good acid balance. Delightful...and fun besides! 16.2. WT090110-14. 09 UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, FITZ-RITTER - (GERMANY) Pfalz peach and grain. Refined yellow fruits and flowers. Sweet, concentrated, balanced, succulent, nutty./ Elegant and fruity, with finely tuned ripe acidity. Full of sweetness, fruit, extract. Well balanced indeed. A complete 09 in youth. 17.1+. WT090110-15. 08 PFALZ DORNFELDER SWEET RED, CARL REH - (GERMANY) Much better than the 07 tasted recently. More vitality. Sweet smelling./ Sweetish indeed. A pleasantly sweet red wine that will satisfy fans of the same. Can’t complain about the price. 15.0. WT090110-16. COLLESI ROSSA UBI IMPER ALE - (BEER) 8%. Red ale refermented in the bottle. Yeasty like a Belgian bottle conditioned or a Unibroue. Rich, with red fruits and berries, and lots of malt./ Yes, malty, fruity. Apple and fig. Pleasing degree of sweetness. Hoppy bitterness at the end. Expressive 16.4.
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