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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
-September, 2009
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Wednesday, September 30, 2009 WT093009-01. 07 MAREMMA VERMENTINO, MORIS FARMS - (ITALY) Burnished, maturing fruit nose with vermentino extras like nuts, marzipan, citrus peel, spice, zest./ Very pungent and expressive. Nice acidity, and light vermentino viscosity. Seafood’s a must. 15.7. WT093009-02. 08 TAMARI RESERVA LA RIOJA TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Wow! Fine aromatics! Titillating and zesty. Bontanicals galore. Cologne, cold cream, tangerine, lime. What power! Thrilling!/ Big time cold cream. Lots of mineral salts. Good acid support. Ripe and scented fruits with hint of incense. Uplifting while powerful. Amazing and complete. Well liked by the group. 16.5. WT093009-03. 07 MACON VILLAGES, ROUX PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Clean expression of chardonnay, on the apple side. Understated oak./ Modest fruit perfume and presence. Some terroir. Full textured. Minerally. 14.8. WT093009-04. 07 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY LES MURELLES, ROUX PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good, crisp chardonnay apple. Stone fruits too. And nuts. Racy./ Yes, juicy chardonnay apple and citrus. Light oak. This has finesse and more presence too. Fine acidity and minerality. Take it to the table. Preferred to the Macon by the group. A good value. 16.2. WT093009-05. 07 TRINCHERO FAMILY MONTEREY RIESLING - (U.S.) Fine and fresh. Lime, peach, minerals, and flowers. Lovely./ Yes, racy, fruity, fresh. Citrus, especially tangerine. Consistent winner. I’m delighted with its stamina. Appreciated by the group. 16.2. WT093009-06. 08 CYCLES GLADIATOR CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Yes! Full, bright pinot fruit expression. Crispness too. Very rich, fruity. Raspberry, strawberry, hard candy./ Plenty of acidity indeed. Very lively. Great verve. Delightful value. Yes! Demands respect. Well liked by the group. 16.1. WT093009-07. 07 CONCANNON LIMITED RELEASE CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Earthy. Perhaps some sulphur. With aeration, it give more varietal character: cherry, other red fruits./ Really high acidity. Grip too. Expected more from this in 07. There have been better years of this, for sure. Maybe it will pull out of its present funk. Most of the group preferred the Cycles. 15.4+. WT093009-08. 07 CASA LAPOSTOLLE RAPEL VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Very sweet nose: honeyed berries. Opens to plum, black cherry, blueberry, pomegranate. Packs a punch. The fruit richness is almost that of confiture./ Oh, but the palate gives quite a different impression. Precise and pure raspberry taste. And really great acidity. Yes! This is entertainment! 15.8+. WT093009-09. 07 VENTISQUERO RESERVA COLCHAGUA VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Crisp, clear, clean carmenere with black currant snap, good oak, and time in oak development. Mellow, creamy, caramelly oak./ Great berry-currant fruit expression and toasty oak in balance. Fine acidity, tannin. Long aftertaste. Well crafted. Much better than the 06. 16.3+. WT093009-10. 08 COUSINO MACUL MAIPO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Very sweet fruit. The usual ripeness but none of the usual leather, brett./ Smoky oak. Good acidity, tannin, grip. Needs time. One of the best vintages of this because of the absence of the animal elements. The group liked this best of the Chileans. 16.0+. WT093009-11. 08 CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES DE FUEGO, BODEGAS ATECA - (SPAIN) Sweet and ripe for 08. Smoky berry nose. Good old vines grenache richness. Freshness and lift of 08./ Wow! Very spicy. Black pepper and thistle. Rich and fruity, with panettone and perhaps some oak complications. Dry, with great acidity, crispness. Exemplary 08. Liked by the group. 16.1+. WT093009-12. 07 CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES ALTOVINUM, EVODIA - (SPAIN) Dense and smoky, with cigar and ash. Red plum, blackberry, spice, perfume, and something verging on citrus./ Big and grapey and typical of the region and old vines grenache. 15.2+. WT093009-13. 07 JUMILLA MONASTRELL FINCA HOYA DE SANTA ANA ALTOS DE LA HOYA, OLIVARES - (SPAIN) Ripe fruit, especially blackberry Also mocha and vanilla./ Ripe fruit and quite a bit of gaminess. Good grip. Well balanced. 15.8+. WT093009-14. 04 RIOJA IX, PAISAJES - (SPAIN) 50% tempranillo, 50% garnacha. 40-60 year old vines. 14 months in new French oak. Lots of oak vanillin, dill, coconut. Smells more like American oak than French./ Big and modern, with plenty of dense, rich fruit expressed as plum, cherry, and fig. Total Rioja. This rocks. Well liked by the group. 16.6+. WT093009-15. 06 DOURO VALE DO BOMFIM, DOW - (PORTUGAL) 40% tinta francesca, 25% tinta roriz, 20% tinta barroca, 15% touriga nacional. Cool and classic 06. Lift, perfume, black berries, plum, pitch, vanilla, bakery, light oak. Fabulous./ Yes, lots of fruits and fine oak in balance. Sweet tannins. One of the best in the series. Liked by the group. 16.3+. WT093009-16. 07 OC ROUGE, PUYDEVAL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 60% cabernet franc, 30% syrah, 10% merlot. Fresh and unique among Oc rouges for its high cabernet franc content, which gives it claret sympathy in a Med setting. Very smooth, sweet fruit expression in 07./ Yes, 07 ripeness and ease. Good acidity and grip too. This is fruitier and less aromatic and claret like than the cooler 06 vintage. But there’s no lack of style, depth, and cabernet franc elegance. 15.7+. WT093009-17. BERNARDYNSKI ROYAL POLAND MEAD - (FRUIT) Aged 4 years. 14% alcohol. Chokecherry juice and spices added. Old honey, smoked nuts, marzipan, sherry,/ Yes, wild stuff. Quite the concoction. 15.6.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009 WT092309-01. 08 CASTILLO DE MOLINA ELQUI VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Whoa! Grass and bell pepper, New Zealand style. Also citrus, aspirin, and an aroma in there that’s hot. Capsicum? Taut and penetrating. Very pleasant./ Crisp and well defined, with lots of capsicum zing. Juicy and refreshing. Elqui Valley style? 15.6. WT092309-02. 05 RULLY BLANC LES VILLERANGES, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Smoky, toasty oak that’s still ahead of the fruit. Solid, with good Burgundian minerality and terroir. Plenty of fruit support. Graceful touch. / Oak still up front. Fruit strength behind it. Not much bouquet development yet. Good power and framing of the vintage. Good texture, minerality. Lingering, clinging, welcome aftertaste. That’s a
good sign. I like the potential here. And value. 16.4+. WT092309-03. 04 RULLY BLANC LES VILLERANGES, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet fruit. Apple, melon, nuts, cream. The oak is well integrated and no where near as evident as in the 05. Nice./ Just a touch of maturity forming. Nice and full and vital. And ready for the table. No 04 malic acidity now. Softened. Good depth and oak-fruit harmony. Affable. Really good for the price. 16.1. WT092309-04. 06 RULLY BLANC LES VILLERANGES, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet, plump, fresh 06. Unlike the 05, this is fruit dominated. Rich, vigorous, assertive, pippy.. Peach, apple, melon./ Sweet and smooth. That’s the 06 nature, and it’s surprising to find so much of it expressed in a usually firm-framed Faiveley wine. The group’s favorite Rully. 16.3+. WT092309-05. 06 MONTAGNY, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fine, toasty oak. Very elegant oak. Stylish, classy. 06 fruit appeal./ Yes, racy, fine oak with cool, snappy fruit support. Good acidity. Great depth, elegance, reserve. 16.5+. WT092309-06. 06 MERCUREY BLANC, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full bodied. Here the oak expresses vanilla and toast. This has the fruit volume and power to match and really delivers on all cylinders./ Very toasty. Full. This is Mercurey, the boldest of Chalonnaise whites. Shows poise and potential. 16.8+. WT092309-07. 07 VOUVRAY, LA CRAIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Ripe and perfumed. Rich and hedonistic. Aromatic apple varieties, quince, melon, peach, honeysuckle, cream./ Demi-sec, with good acid foil. Rich, silk textured, forthcoming, and attractive. Neat stuff. Well liked by the group. 16.4. WT092309-08. 08 CASTLE ROCK CARNEROS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Crisp cherry and orange notes of Carneros pinot noir. Cool climate pinot./ Tart cherry, raspberry, tea leaf, spice. Crisp and genuine pinot of place. Great acidity. Sweet-tart. Good value for Carneros. Will work well with salmon. Well liked by the group. 15.9+. WT092309-09. 08 SANTA RITA 120 VALLE CENTRAL MERLOT - (CHILE) Sweet and nutty. Plenty of fruit perfumes, ripeness, darkness, joy. Black cherry emphasis./ Wow! Juicy, flavorful, complex. Wood spice tinged. The wood was not so evident when the bottle was first opened four days ago. Now this wine is rounding into a complete picture like the incredible 07. Not yet as rich and ripe as the 07of late but pushing its way up to
that plane. Plenty of appeal now, and plenty more to anticipate. 16.2+. WT092309-10. 08 KANONKOP KADETTE STELLENBOSCH RED - (SOUTH AFRICA) 45% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cabernet franc, 7% merlot. Ripe, soft, and rather elegant. Underbrush, game, tar, licorice./ Plenty of sweet, vital fruit. Dark berries, tobacco, lifting menthol. Delivers now and offers more to come. 15.7+. WT092309-11. 04 THREE CAPE LADIES SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH RED - (SOUTH AFRICA) Forgot to check if the varietals were listed. The usual theme though, is that the Three Cape Ladies represent cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot. Wow! Great oak and sweet, ripe fruit complexes. Euro style and elegance./ Loaded with both fruit and oak nuances. Blackberry, chocolate, tobacco. Cabernet intensity. Lots of complexity
and lots of give too. This really delivers. 16.7+.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009 WT091609-01. 08 COTES DE GASCOGNE BLANC HARMONIE DE GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DE PELLEHAUT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Lots of cool peach and peel. And nectarine. Tingles the nostrils./ Crisp pear, lemon, and mineral tang. Fresh, brisk, lively, stimulating acidity. Some astringency too. A young 08 and not yet as settled in as some of its peers. Fruit richness grows with aeration. Enjoy now for its raciness. Follow over the next few months
for
additional fruit fulfillment. 16.1+. WT091609-02. 08 SIMONSIG STELLENBOSCH CHENIN BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Whoa, delivers! Rich and dense, burnished fruits with nutty-smoky overtones. Melons, stone fruits, red berries, bubble gum. Very intense./ Still some SO2 grip. Good body. Lush melon, pear, fig, nut, and spice flavors. Give it plenty of aeration. 15.4+. WT091609-03. 08 CHINON BLANC LES CHANTEUX, COULY-DUTHEIL - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sweet chenin apple and quince and the special terroir statement of Chinon blanc that’s a little like Saumur but not exactly. 08 grip, frame, coolness. Packed with fruit and giving it out in a well measured manner. This is not gushy./ Yes, a mouthful of fruit flavor and volume. Melon, pear, cotton candy. Deep, elegant, charming. Full, assertive fruit
concentration.
Fresh acid carriage. Good grip. A great Chinon blanc. Well liked by the group. 16.7+. WT091609-04. 08 CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE COLUMBIA VALLEY PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) Full apple and nut varietal character. Less forceful, less peels oriented than some previous vintages. I like this style better. Nice nose./ Mellow. Less grip even than the nose. There was discussion about RS. Most thought the smooth texture from glycerol rather than sugar. Very useful already. 15.9+. WT091609-05. 08 BLACK STAR FARMS ARCTUROS OLD MISSION PENINSULA DRY RIESLING - (U.S.) Fresh apple and pear fruit, and some gathering fern already. One attendee had two bottles earlier, and stated that this was the most developed of the ones he’d tasted to date./ Citrus peel and fern. Nice acid nip to start, assuaged by light sweetness after. This is not totally dry. Liked by the group. 16.2. WT091609-06. 08 TAVEL, DOMAINE CANTO PERDRIX - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh and full. Plenty of body. A nice, sweet fruit personality. More raspberry than strawberry. And some red cherry, hard candy, and underbrush./ Yes, raspberry and seed. Dab of tar, licorice. Clove, cinnamon highlights. Good grip. Rockin’ good acidity. Big, strong, and spicy Tavel. Good with food now. While I prefer many a Tavel at age two, I don’t
think you’d
need to keep this one that long. Liked by the group. 16.5+. WT091609-07. 07 OC PINOT NOIR LES SALICES, LURTON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet and varietal. Pinot for sure. Cherry, strawberry, tea, and spices. Nice./ Fruity, light hearted, easy. Come hither. Best in the series? 16.0. WT091609-08. 07 CHIANTI, LE CASELLE - (ITALY) Reduced to start. With aeration comes a fine expression of sangiovese, light and 07 fruity. Red cherry, tea, anise, orange peel./ Again, reduced to start. Must be aired or decanted vigorously to bring up the fruit. Then there are plenty of red fruit delights. Open and easy to comprehend. 15.7+. WT091609-09. 09 SANTA JULIA ORGANICA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Extremely reduced. But what would you expect from a 5 month old red wine? Guess the banker said it’s time. More reduced than the Chianti. But with aeration, it improves and starts to show some quality fruit./ Purple. Reduced. After aeration, big, ripe, and sweet black fruits of malbec. Plummy, spicy, charming. Be sure to decant vigorously. 15.8+. WT091609-10. 08 MAIPE MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Wow! Denser, deeper. Black and spicy. Lots of fruit display. Blackberry, candied fruit, and suggestions of talc and oak. Fulfills 08 specs./ Yes, malbec black cherry, licorice. And other exotica, including yew. The tannin is still somewhat edgy. Give it a few more months. 16.0+. WT091609-11. 06 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO RIBIRO, VILLA CERVIA - (ITALY) Spicy. Fruit cake, raisin, brandied cherry, sweet-tarts, wood, clove, citron./ Rich and ripe. Intense, bountiful fruit and barrel savors. 06 dark, and riper and less constrained than a lot of young 06s. A mouthful of ripe fruit and raisins and warm spices. Generous and alluring. Well liked by the group. 16.4. WT091609-12. 07 SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA, CUSUMANO - (ITALY) Oh, how pretty, how sensible, polished, and attractive. Meaty, plummy, smoky, savory burnished fruits./ Lots of southern warmth and lushness. A treat all the way. Wow! Forget about spitting! 16.5+. WT091609-13. 07 RIBERA DEL DUERO LEGON ROBLE, BODEGAS VALTOSTAO - (SPAIN) Sweet and spicy tempranillo raspberry and seeds. Superb elegance./ Yes, spicy, elegant. Really sings. The roble is well managed, making an attractive seasoning that’s laced throughout. Not a bit of wood on top. The fruit is ripe, dense, and well stuffed, with a blackberry syrup aspect. Very good acidity. Well liked by the group. 16.7+. WT091609-14. 08 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE ROMAINE, DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Whoa! Does this wine ever justify its name! Bustin’ with garrigue: thyme, rosemary, sage. And peppercorns, black, white, and red./ Yow! A mouthful of garrigue complex. This just soars! Less body and sweetness than the riper vintages. Makes up for it in flair. Well managed acidity. 14% alcohol, but seems much less hot and ripe than
any of
the previous four vintages. Kudos to the domaine for such a stunning achievement in a vintage of modest fruit ripeness. Actually, it’s a blessing to my tastes. Loved by the group. Our operators are standing by... 16.5+. WT091609-15. 07 TEAL LAKE SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Good and cool Western Australia shiraz. Has grip and flair. Not a bit sticky. Real shiraz./ Yes, body and grip. Plenty of fruit. Robust. Tastes of blackberry, tobacco, and mocha. Nothing flash-eurized about it. Very successful kosher wine. 15.8. WT091609-16. 08 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, ST. ANTONIUS - (GERMANY) Young, full, very firm framed. Hints of stone fruit, lemon verbena, flowers. Not yielding near as much as the 07. Tasted younger?/ Apple, peach, some kiwi, nectarine. Soft and sweetish. Acidity still coated. This needs a few months. 15.7+. WT091609-17. 07 CARMEL MOSCATO DI CARMEL - (ISRAEL) Marmalade nose of muscat alexandria. A fabulous varietal display./ Flavor less intense but still impressive. Lemon-lime, lemon grass. A tasty treat. Mild acidity. Could use more spirit to fill it out. Only 5.5% alcohol. 16.0.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009 WT090909-01. 08 PICPOUL DE PINET, CAVE DE MONTAGNAC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bright and fresh, with a citrus emphasis. Tangelo./ Initial lime and mineral tanginess yields to a softer side. Apple, pear, fat fruits. Very flavorful. Liked by the group. 16.1. WT090909-02. 08 SAUMUR BLANC RESERVE, VIGNERONS DE SAUMUR - (FRANCE LOIRE) All chenin blanc. Bold. Melon, pear, and quince. Large, and quite strong as Loire whites go. Open; available. More frame and power than the 07./ Large in the mouth too. Texture-wise, flavor-wise. This delivers the goods. It’s all on display now. No sense in keeping this past winter. It has no secrets to reveal later. Mouthwatering green apple acidity.
Generous,
charming, lovely. Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT090909-03. 08 MAN VINTNERS WESTERN CAPE CHENIN BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Very bright lime and peel. Full, ripe, solid, composed. Melon and honey./ Flavorful. Quince and honey. Full textured. Up front. Enticing. Good acidity for food. Good now. Liked by the group. 15.6. WT090909-04. 08 SAINT CLAIR MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR - (NEW ZEALAND) Oak, bacon and other smoked meats, cherry, strawberry. Tart cherry and some Lapsang Souchong tea tarriness, smokiness./ Sweet and spicy cherry flavors. Great acidity. That welcome NZ pinot fluidity. Long and flavorful. Seductive. Well liked by the group. 16.7+. WT090909-05. 07 CARMEN RAPEL MERLOT - (CHILE) Very sweet and ripe. With sweet purse leather undertones. Plenty of black fruit and spice, herb and smoke./ The sweet fruit, the leather, and plenty of wood spices. Wood tannins too. These give it a rough texture that time must assuage. Not as accessible young as past vintages. 15.4+. WT090909-06. 07 VENTOUX ALTITUD 500 PARCELLES ST. NICOLAS, VIGNERONS DE MONT VENTOUX - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 75% grenache, 25% syrah. Like the recent desk sample, this is sweet and vigorous, with lots of peel zestiness. More grip than the longer-open desk sample. Ripe and generous aromas of blackberry, currants, hoisin sauce, and dried flowers./ Full. Lots of berry and peppercorn. Good acid edge. Sweeter fruited and less
rustic
than pre-2005 vintages. Positive changes here. Long finish. 16.3+. WT090909-07. 06 OC MARSELAN, CHATEAU CAMPLAZENS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Marselan is a cross of cabernet sauvignon and grenache developed in France, likely at Montpellier in the Midi. Yes! That funky combo of sweet, ripe, smoky grenache and the blackberry influence of cabernet. Nicely forward now. That’s one of the assets of this variety./ Sweet and spicy. Soft around the edges, with good acidity at the heart, giving a
juicy taste.
Again, the sweet, smoky, spicy appeal of teriyaki beef plus the plump, woodsy berriness. Lots of panache. Last tasted 12/08, this has retained its freshness and has softened and broadened nicely. The group was fascinated with this. 16.0+. WT090909-08. 06 FAUGERES RESERVE DE LA CHANTAIGNIERE, DANIEL BESSIERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 60% syrah, 20% each grenache, mourvedre. Rich and powerful. Red and black fruits, licorice, roasted meat. Ripe, roti, succulent, really./ A bit of drying tannin to shed but certainly useful now with food. 16.2+. WT090909-09. 06 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE DES TERROIRS, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 25% syrah, 5% mourvedre. Baked goods, panettone. Solid, woodsy, minerally wine that has a pretty side too./ Quite firm and dry like many an 06 at this stage. There’s plenty of fruit substance to carry it through additional bottle aging. 16.2+. WT090909-10. 06 BIERZO MENCIA ROBLE, ABAD DOM BUENO - (SPAIN) The usual mencia reduction. Sweet berry-currant core. With airing, becomes big, deep, dense, smoky, plummy./ Great acidity. Fine tannin. As often happens, the sense of reduction is confined to the nose. Oak comes into play on the palate, offering vanilla and nutmeg. Hint of bacon. Superb fruit and oak quality, seamlessly married. Well-tuned, ripe tannin support.
Another
winner in the series. Very well liked by the group. 17.0+. WT090909-11. 06 LIPARITA STAGS LEAP DISTRICT CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Rich cabernet black fruit, well tuned and accompanied by balanced oak. Blackberry, cedar, spice. Heady, woody, forceful./ Rich and exuberant. Lots of oak vanilla. The oak is quality stuff. Stags Leap District style and delineation. 16.8+. WT090909-12. 06 LIPARITA OAKVILLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Ahh! Even more fruit elegance evident here. This has that Oakville sense of refinement, discretion. The oak stands back and allows fruit and terroir to show./ Sweet and spicy French oak married to Oakville reserve, class. Rich berry, incense, and fine chocolate flavors. Great depth and body. Long and fruity-oaky-spicy finish. A great wine. The group loved both;
even
many of the Europhiles expressed admiration. 17.7+. WT090909-13. 08 NINE STONES MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) As at Wine Club yesterday, sweet fruit like a Barossa and large framing like a McLaren./ Yes, sweet and spicy. Dark fruits and cigar box. Strong and solid McLaren character. Fabulous. Well liked by the group. 16.8. WT090909-14. 07 HESS ARTEZIN MENDOCINO ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet and spicy. Raspberry and peppercorn zinfandel classic with Mendocino blackness. Super./ Yes, the berry-bramble zestiness, both fruit and seed. Really great acidity. And fine tannin. Best Artezin zinfandel I’ve tasted. Well liked by the group. 16.8. WT090909-15. 07 BEL LAGO LEELANAU PENINSULA GEWURZTRAMIER - (U.S.) Lots of orange and lychee. Alsatian notions./ Soft and fat, viscous. Charming too. Nicely done. 15.9. WT090909-16. 06 MERLER KONIGSLAY-TERRASSEN RIESLING AUSLESE, E. KROTH - (GERMANY) Sweet and nutty. Rich and succulent, buxom. Honey, peach, apple. Moving into some maturity. Botrytis here./ This delivers. Both sweetness and acidity, in harmony. More botrytis. Very zingy and pippy for 06 and auslese. Speaks of a cool site. Well balanced. The group was impressed. 16.6+.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009 WT090209-01. 08 SANCERRE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh, crisp, and penetrating. Another young 08 Euro white with great structure. Aeration brings fragrant fruits, ripe and creamy, mineral-edged./ Yes, it’s a young one. 08 form and filling. Sweet-tart. Lively. Again, airing delivers sleek and charming, easy, gracious fruitiness foiled by bright acid tang. Ideal for its age. Long, tangy, juicy finish. Well balanced.
16.6+. WT090209-02. 07 SANCERRE CLOS DE CHAUDENAY, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sweet and sassy. Rich and tangy. You get it both ways. Shows the extra year’s age. Fullness of old vines cuvee too. Dense, fat, deep, and enticing./ Wow! This really fills the mouth with a luscious texture. And it’s got good tang too. Complete package. Long finish. Nice stuff! Very popular with the group. 17.0+. WT090209-03. 08 KAMPTAL GRUNER VELTLINER LOSS, HIEDLER - (AUSTRIA) Apple, fig, nut, snow pea. Nice tingle. Some white fruits and flowers too. And rocks. Full./ Palate is richer than the nose suggested. Full, sweet fruit. Acid to balance. This really delivers. Grows in the glass and the mouth. 16.6+. WT090209-04. 06 FINCA LA ESCONDIDA RESERVA SAN JUAN CHARDONNAY - (ARGENTINA) Showing plenty of bottle bouquet. Nutty, grainy. Mature, burnished interest./ Yes, older, but still has fruit sweetness, and it’s not too woody. Good acidity. Rich mouthful of mature chardonnay. Useful for sure. Probably the way the home market likes ‘em. 16.0. WT090209-05. 08 SANCERRE ROSE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Oh, sweet strawberry aroma. And cherry. Good and cool too. But the sweet fruit aroma is what distinguishes this from previous vintages, which had tart fruit aroma even though some of the vintages were warmer. This is creme-ier than usual even though the vintage tends away from that./ Oh, yes. The palate confirms the nice, sweet fruit tendency. And, well, there’s
good
acidity too. Best yet. Very popular with the group. 16.7. WT090209-06. 07 SANCERRE ROUGE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) The fruit is ripe and stresses strawberry, which is a northern pinot zone feature. The usual lighter body and color of a Loire pinot. Sweet fruit nose. Airing adds raspberry and smoke./ Palate shows a cool climate face, with some tea, even black tea and tar. It’s ripe enough, but definitely a lighter form of pinot. Maybe it will fill out over the coming months.
16.1+. WT090209-07. 08 VAUCLUSE PETIT CAPRICE, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 75% grenache, 25% syrah. The coolness of 08. Bramble, spice, and leaf./ Red and black berries. Not as ripe as the 07 but shows good depth nonetheless. Will fill out further. 15.6+. WT090209-08. 08 COTES DU VENTOUX LES AMADOUS, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Grenache, syrah, cinsault, carignan. Fragrant. Still some left from the fermentation, maybe. Flowers. Freshness for sure./ Cherry and raspberry flavors. Easy, lively, forward. For food. 15.8. WT090209-09. 08 COLONIA LAS LIEBRES MENDOZA BONARDA - (ARGENTINA) Sweet, ripe nose. With licorice, tar, and bacon. And plenty of black and red fruits./ There’s fruit sweetness on the palate too. Tastes of black licorice, cassis, brandied cherries, and black pepper. Soft smokiness and hint of bacon. As generous and reliable as the 07. Smokier, perhaps heftier. 16.0+. WT090209-10. 06 FINCA LA ESCONDIDA RESERVA SAN JUAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ARGENTINA) Fresh nose for age, with blackberry, tar, licorice, and nice oak spices and vanillin./ Rich, with oak spice and toast. Cigar box too. Good acidity. Mellow tannins. Upscale for the price. 16.3+. WT090209-11. 08 DON MANUEL VILLAFANE MAIPU MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) One of the sweetly-fruited 08s. Light reduction. Needs aeration. Nose suggests good structure./ Reduction on the palate too. Good form, acidity. Needs air and age. 15.0++. WT090209-12. 06 FINCA LA ESCONDIDA RESERVE MAIPU MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Lots of licorice. Some red plum, wisp of talc. Young./ Tight and narrow. Austere. This needs more bottle age. Very traditional style. 14.3++. WT090209-13. 06 SANTOS BECK CLASSIC MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Lots of ventilating qualities like licorice and menthol. Big and vinous./ Again. Cooling. Tight, dry; some tannin to shed. A little softer and more accessible than the above. 15.5++. WT090209-14. 06 SANTOS BECK GRAN MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 50 year old vines. Yields of but 3 tons per acre. 14 months in French oak./ Good oak contributions. Dry and cool. The oak is firm and measured, not forceful./ Yes, sweet oak emissions. Panettone, chocolate, candied fruits, cedar. Great acidity. Soft tannins. Time in bottle and cooperage has made its contributions. And will make more. This has lots of charm and
character.
16.4+. WT090209-15. 06 MONBAZILLAC, CHATEAU BELINGARD - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Sweet nose of honey, pineapple, green fig, and apricot. Positively Gironde like./ Sweet peach juice, vanilla frosting, and honeysuckle flavors. Lush, liquoreuse 06 style. Firm, youthful carriage. Will improve 3-5+ years. Nice to have this first-class source back again. And the price in incredible these days. 16.9+. WT090209-16. 07 SANTOS BECK SAN JUAN TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Very floral, clean, and fresh./ Cool, dry, crisp, fresh, and well balanced. Nice light viscosity. No signs of age. 16.2.
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