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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- September, 2008
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Wednesday, September 24, 2008 WT092408-01. 08 CRISTOBAL 1492 FINCA LA PINTA MENDOZA TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Attractive floral perfume. Orange blossom especially. Also stone fruits, powder puff, minerals./ Flavorful. Some spicy assets as well as flowers. Soft on entry, then the acidity comes into play. A dry wine with a creamy texture. Great value. 16.3. WT092408-02. ITALIA ANRICUS, SANTA GIUSTINA - (ITALY) Ortugo and sauvignon. They play together nicely. Ortugo pungency, spicy perfume. Incense and flowers. Quince, peach, even red berries and rosemary. Sauvignon citrus crispness and cut. Taut and tensile, penetrating./ Nice soft padding up front. Then comes the acidity, bright and cleansing. Ortrugo is out in the clearing with sauvignon stalking behind and beneath. Well crafted entity. 16.1. WT092408-03. 07 ALTO ADIGE SAUVIGNON, CANTINA TRAMIN - (ITALY) Wow! Intense gooseberry, grass, botanicals, and grapefruit. Zingy and fine. I’m not used to this sort of exuberant display from NE Italy sauvignon. Maintains a certain degree of levity that sets it apart from upper Loire and New Zealand sauvignons./ Soft, forward, enticing. Juicy, cool, tangy, expressive, distinctive. The acidity is ripe, allowing the fruit richness to show prominently. That’s part of the beauty of 07. 16.2. WT092408-04. 06 SOAVE, TAMELLINI - (ITALY) Rich and custardy. Lemon custard with the crust singed. Burnished yellow stone fruits, melon, almond, sweet squash./ Juicy yellow fruits. Peach and lemon. Nutty undertones and floral airs. Suave indeed. Good acidity in the back to counter the overall fat and full impression. Lasting. The 04 was astonishing at the 8/25 Tasters Guild event, and so is this one. Tamellini makes Soaves that improve with age, for sure. I’m sold on this source. 16.6. WT092408-05. 06 NIERSTEINER PETTENTHAL RIESLING KABINETT, GESCHWISTER SCHUCH - (GERMANY) Fine tangerine aroma of many of the best Rheinfront Hessen rieslings, most prominent in the wines of Gunderloch. Spice and flowers extras that mark the pedigree of Pettenthal, perhaps my favorite Rheinfront site./ Sweet and flavorful. Soft Hessen style. Mild acidity of 06. Tender and delicious. 16.4. WT092408-06. 06 BURGENLAND ZWEIGELT ZWEI I KONIGSEGG, SCHLOSS HALBTURN - (AUSTRIA) Dark, dark purple color./ Dramatic black-hole zweigelt aroma on entry. Then grows sweeter, richer, and plenty ripe, while maintaining properly cool, brash, primary black fruits./ Flavorful, juicy. Lots of boysenberry sweet-tartness and flavor. Yes, the right balance of ripeness and acidity. A really fine example of the varietal. Jorge says, Use with Latin fare.16.6. WT092408-07. 07 KEN FORRESTER PETIT STELLENBOSCH PINOTAGE - (SOUTH AFRICA) Fresh, black, primary. Total fruit force: blackberries and red cherries. Wood smoke too./ Plump polished blackberry fruit, very juicy. Gamy too. A proper modern pinotage. 15.7. WT092408-08. 07 LA MANCHA TEMPRANILLO, CAMPOS REALES - (SPAIN) Sweet, especially for tempranillo. But then, it’s from La Mancha. Jovial. Come hither, really. I can see the Parker WGWV./ Plump, juicy, flavorful, substantial. Green olive note and a hint of oak. Fruit preserves richness plus great acidity. Will improve. Commendable value. 16.0+. WT092408-09. 07 PELEE ISLAND ONTARIO SHIRAZ - (CANADA) Sweet and ripe, even roasted. Some leather tones./ Bulk and darkness of the varietal. Good depth and fruit expression. Good value. 14.8. WT092408-10. 05 CHIANTI RUFINA RISERVA, RENZO MASI - (ITALY) Dark and juicy. Fine, deep black fruit and black licorice. More like an 04 or 06. Bravo!/ Spicy berry and time in oak riserva nuances. Juicy fruit acidity. Meaty constitution. Fine tannin. A crown achievement. Best since the 01, really. 16.4+. WT092408-11. 04 RIOJA RESERVA, BODEGAS MUGA - (SPAIN) Unfiltered. Oak and time in barrel savors with good, deep fruit complement. A bounty of fruits: plum, raspberry, even a suggestion of peach. Shades of chamomile and rosemary./ Sweet, rich fruit and oak vanilla and coconut. Well composed. Tannin to shed yet. 16.6+. WT092408-12. 07 CHATEAU FONTAINE LEELANAU PENINSULA GEWURZTRAMINER - (U.S.) Flowers, peach, musk, spices. Reflections of riesling and muscat as well as gewurztraminer./ Very spicy and floral. Mild acidity of the varietal. Will come forth more over the next few months. 15.4+.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008 WT091708-01. 05 TOKAJI FURMINT DRY MANDULAS, OREMUS - (HUNGARY) Well, this is much fresher than the 04 last week. Cool, vinous, and crisp. Kinda like a young riesling. Some were expecting more perfume. I’m not sure furmint has all that much./ Burnished fruits and toasted nuts. Dry. Good acidity. Some glycerol. Nicely balanced mouthfeel. 16.2. WT091708-02. 04 CORNERSTONE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Very 04 ripe. Sweet fruit tinged with vanilla oak and even some cake frosting. Plum, blackberry, raspberry, and currant come on in waves, filling the nostrils./ Sweet cherry-berry fruit flavor plus sweet oak extracts and spices. Great depth and structure, texture and balance. Good power. Really fills the mouth as well as the nostrils. Grand scaled.
I can’t spit
this one, must swallow! 17.5+. WT091708-03. 04 CORNERSTONE HOWELL MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Smoky, toasty French oak. Black currant, mocha, raisinette, walnut, and spicy highlights. Hides its Howell Mountain ripeness well. Comes across with a sense of nobility thanks to the quality of both oak and fruit./ Rich and velvety. Fine French oak and class fruit purity. More muscular than the Napa Valley cuvee, but equally refined and well poised.
Very long
finish. Howell Mountain ruggedness has been nicely trained into a well-mannered aristocrat. 17.8+. WT091708-04. 05 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, LUCIEN BARROT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! Compared to the 06, riper, warmer, more powerful. Certainly less reserved. Hoisin sauce, plum sauce, five-spice powder, vanilla, and walnut impressions./ Traditional basis but showing the riper, stronger fruit of 05. Really powerful. And terrific. Must keep. 16.8++. WT091708-05. 95 RIOJA GRAN RESERVA 904, LA RIOJA ALTA - (SPAIN) Boy, this is really expressive of American oak. Lots of dill and coconut. Also blackberry, vanilla, nutmeg. Heady stuff. Big and solid, ripe and juicy. Strikingly youthful./ Very fresh and young. Traditional. What a future! Premature to serve now–which you can’t say about many 13 year old wines. 17.3++. WT091708-06. 04 MONTSANT, LAURONA - (SPAIN) 50% grenache, 25% merlot, 15% syrah, 10% cabernet sauvignon. Intense purple berries and stone fruits. Black coffee, black olive, black pepper, black tobacco. Beautiful oak spices. Warm spices: nutmeg, mace. A fine marriage of fruit and oak. High altitude lift. All about finesse./ Deliciously sweet and subtle fruit with fine oak integration. All about subtlety, finesse, restraint.
17.8+. WT091708-07. 03 MONTSANT 6 VINYES, LAURONA - (SPAIN) 60% grenache, 40% carignan, vines 60-80 years old. Very ripe, powerful, gamy./ Big, warm, spicy, powerful. Plush, ripe, dense fruit concentrate. Full of material. Good acidity, especially for this ripe vintage. 17.2+. WT091708-08. 05 CASTILLA Y LEON, MAURO - (SPAIN) Very cool and classy tinta de pais. Floral overtones. No excesses of oak, power, ripeness. Just the right level of lushness and largesse./ Freshness, clarity, great flavor, beauty. Fine acidity and tannin, body and depth. Eminently well balanced. Wow! So cool! So complex! 17.8+. WT091708-09. 04 RIBERA DEL DUERO, ALION - (SPAIN) Fabulous smoky oak and bright berry fruit. Black fruits and vanilla frosting. This positively exudes class./ Oh! Such fine oak spice and caramel flavors. Strong, rich, deep, smoky, meaty. Really GREAT acidity. Super length too. Yow! 18.4+. WT091708-10. 05 PRIORAT FONT DE LA FIGUERA, CLOS FIGUERES - (SPAIN) Grenache, carignan, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon. Focused, intense blackberry puree aromas. Tar, smoke, and game elements. Ripe, spicy, floral, unique. High altitude berry and black fruit. Evokes impressions of cranberry and pomegranate too. And the charred oak hints at bourbon./ Fresh, full, spicy, berried, unique. Luscious, seductive, amazing. Meaty,
chewy,
bold. Grand. COMPLEX! 18.0+. WT091708-11. 05 PRIORAT, CLOS FIGUERES - (SPAIN) Rich and concentrated but also bright, refined, racy, and focused. Good wood in the background./ Palate adds black currant and vanilla. Flowers-earth-spices complex. Fine and sturdy tannin. Loaded. Will improve for 7-10 years and last forever. Air and/or age for full appreciation. 18.0++. WT091708-12. 05 PRIORAT, CLOS MOGADOR - (SPAIN) Bright purple fruit and spicy oak. Cool, dark, fresh berry. Plum, flowers, cracked pepper. Speaks high altitude. Wow!/ Palate echoes all–loudly!. Sweet and spicy. Cool and black. Grand vin! 18.8+. WT091708-13. 03 CASTILLA Y LEON VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA, MAURO - (SPAIN) 100% tempranillo. Deep, significant 03. More style than the 03 6 Vinyes. Also gamy and ripe in the 03 manner./ Yes, ripe, large. Vanilla oak. Concentrated, powerful. Elegant and complex elements of bouquet maturity. 17.4++. Great tasting overall. One of the best I’ve enjoyed in a long while.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008 WT091008-01. 07 VOUVRAY LA COULEE D’ARGENT VIEILLES VIGNES SEC, DOMAINE BOURILLON DORLEANS - (FRANCE LOIRE) Comes on fat, sassy, and exotic. Quince and melon. Hints of stone fruit, tropical fruit, honeysuckle. Then shows a more ascetic platform. Wet stone. Spring water. Coolness and clarity./ Just a smidge of tendre; surely almost full dry. Good acidity. Shows more power than 13% suggests. Gives a dense, muscular, bold
presence in the mouth. A complex and magnanimous Vouvray. I suggest walleye. 16.5+. WT091008-02. 04 TOKAJI FURMINT MANDOLAS DRY, OREMUS - (HUNGARY) Nut, cream, and melon, plus some balsamic overtones. Quite telling. Some resemblance to a maturing dry riesling, with its fern and dried apricot nuances./ Yes, shows the complexity of bottle bouquet. Plenty of table uses. 16.0. WT091008-03. 07 SANCERRE ROSE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Pretty. Nice freshness. White wine race. Peels extracts give a measure of grip and volume, and pink fruit. Cherry and blossom./ Good acidity and power. Supercharged. Real beauty too. 16.4. WT091008-04. 07 PRAXIS SYRAH ALEXANDER VALLEY DRY ROSE - (U.S.) Full, rich, sweet, and very fruity nose. Syrah and Alexander Valley give Med France leanings, while the forward and generous approach speak California./ Yes, good richness, power, presence. Juicy too. Really begs for food. Well liked by the group, including the Europhiles, who were surprised that it performed so well next to the Sancerre rose. 16.2. WT091008-05. 06 BOURGOGNE, DOMAINE RENE LECLERC - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Cote de Nuits black cherry and other black fruits. Some sweet strawberry and red cherry too. Also Oolong tea and tar./ Sweet, ripe, clean, and fruity on the palate. Good acidity (not too much) and power. Expressive. 16.0+. WT091008-06. 02 RIBERA DEL DUERO, ASTER - (SPAIN) By the folks that bring us Lagar de Cervera. Good wood and certainly ripe enough fruit. Warm and spicy. No signs of 02 deficiencies./ Yes, a fabulous display of wood spices–a Byzantine aura. Great acidity, balance. Fine tannin. Best 02 Spanish red I’ve tasted? 16.8+. WT091008-07. 01 RIOJA RESERVA SELECCION ESPECIAL VINA ALBERDI, LA RIOJA ALTA - (SPAIN) Classic Rioja. American oak and reserva bouquet development, fruit evolution. Plenty of breadth and depth of bouquet. Intriguing sachet overtones. Young still, thanks to 01 class, form, and race./ Delicious oak savor. Complex, rangy, and broad in both flavor and texture respects thanks to the traditional, full-term reserva process.
Full bodied too. On the ascent. 17.1+. WT091008-08. 00 RIOJA RESERVA VINA ARDANZA, LA RIOJA ALTA - (SPAIN) Sweeter, rounder nature of the vintage and the cuvee, which I believe is Alavesa rather than Alta based. Soft and lovely, approachable./ Oh, this is nice and gentle and welcoming. Good acidity too. Lovely oak influences. Layers of reserva fruit, oak, and time in barrel contributions. Excellent current drinking but won’t fade fast. 17.5. WT091008-09. 98 RIOJA RESERVA VINA ARANA, LA RIOJA ALTA - (SPAIN) Good aging and mellowing in oak of a reserva. Smoke, leather, game. Nose says it’s ready to drink./ Smooth and ready indeed. Full of bouquet, fruit development, feral extras. Lots of stuffing. Classic old time Rioja reserva. 17.0. WT091008-10. 06 BEAUMES DE VENISE LES FIGUIERES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Gold Medal - Avignon. 65% grenache, 25% syrah, 10% cinsaut. Plenty of freshness and lift of the vintage, blackness of Beaumes, richness of grenache, plus garrigue extras. And the ever-desirable air of violets./ Yes, grenache richness, plus syrah dark fruit, coolness, acidity. Lovely, winning poise. 16.4+. WT091008-11. 05 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES CUVEE NOTRE DAME DES CELLETTES, DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe for Sainte Anne and Gard. Aromas opening nicely. The whole package of what Rhone should be./ Ripe, open knit, and tannic for Sainte Anne. Good Gard acidity though. The aromas and flavors are giving already, but this wine will need time for tannin resolution. 16.2+. WT091008-12. 06 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE LUCIEN BARROT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Large but cool. Traditional, but not in a rustic sense. Shows the old time whole bunch fermentation characteristics of cool fruit and positive stalk extracts. Subtle garrigue, flower, and botanical nuances./ Yes, the form, the composure, the confidence of traditional Chateauneuf. This hearkens back to wines of the pre-modern era. To
days before the international movement hit Chateauneuf, and before everyone started skimming creme de la creme cuvees off the top of the production. 17.0++. WT091008-13. 06 MUSCAT DE SAINT JEAN DE MINERVOIS, DOMAINE DE BARROUBIO half liter - (FORTIFIED) Tawny orange muscat alexandria style. Very pungent and powerful. Some grappa airs. Jovial, floral, perfumed./ White raisins, orange water, orange peel, grappa. Lush, sweet, fruity, nutty, powerful. Delightful. 16.5+. WT091008-14. 04 TOKAJI LATE HARVEST, OREMUS half liter - (HUNGARY) Almond, spiced fig, honey, and apricot. Classic nose./ Bright and delicious acidity. Fruit juice, dried fruits, almond, and more. Matches the richness, complexity, and quality of a 3 Puttonyos at least. Distinctive, and a treat. 17.4+.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008 WT090308-01. 07 DONAULAND STEINAGRUND GRUNER VELTLINER LAGENRESERVE, LETH - (AUSTRIA) Fine, full apple and snow pea aromas. Large, lush, looming./ Steely, penetrating. Firm apple and pear–baking or cider varieties. Light glycerol. Very, very juicy, highly textured, ever present, long. 16.6. WT090308-02. 07 POUILLY FUME, DOMAINE TABORDET - (FRANCE LOIRE) Quince, peach, pink grapefruit, flowers./ Juicy grapefruit, gooseberry, nectarine, and quince flavors. Good wash of zesty, lively acidity. And a peachy roundness that marks it distinctly Pouilly Fume as contrasted to the more incisive, calcareous wines of Sancerre. Complete Pouilly Fume. The real deal. And quite the extraordinary price. Well liked by the
group. 16.7. WT090308-03. 07 SICILIA INSOLIA, CUSUMANO - (ITALY) Nectar, dried yellow fruits, nuts, caramel. And the opposite end of the spectrum: flint, stone, cut and vim. Intriguing juxtaposition./ Racy, flinty. Incisive. Fresh and invigorating. 15.4. WT090308-04. 06 SICILIA INSOLIA-CHARDONNAY ANGIMBE, CUSAMANO - (ITALY) Mellower from time and from chardonnay. Honey, nut, flint, peach. Nice and rounded./ The honey and nut hint at bottle development. Round, rich, and balanced. Good acidity too. Good dinner wine. 15.5. WT090308-05. 07 MACON CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE TALMARD - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Cool apple raciness. Bright and fresh. A lot of malic cut for 07. Good and assertive./ Roundness in front, good acid bite in back. Portrays 07 white burgundy tenderness, plus the cutting retort and relief of the best. 16.0+. WT090308-06. 07 MACON PIERRECLOS CHARDONNAY, JEAN-CLAUD THEVENET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Nutty-oaky. The oak grows as it airs but doesn’t dominate. Also showing: flowers, tea, chamomile, walnut husk, spun sugar./ Rich and opened up from time in cooperage and malolactic fermentation. Not too much oak for the relatively delicate Macon chardonnay fruit to bear. Adequate acidity. However, the malo gives an overall soft approach.
Distinctive, intriguing, lasting. 16.0+. WT090308-07. 07 RIBEIRO, VINA REBOREDA - (SPAIN) A peach-pear-aromatic apple-flowers beauty. 07 lithe. Perfect Ribeiro–not as fruity as Rias Baixas albarino but certainly from varietals on the fruity side like arintho, trajadura, godello./ Round, soft, and cushy on approach. Then the juicy fruit acidity rings in to balance. A long and inviting aftertaste. Come hither. Classic. Better than the 06 was in youth. 17.0. WT090308-08. 06 COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI RIBOLLA GIALLA, ZOR ZETTIG - (ITALY) Rich, spiced yellow fruits. Dense and deep, with hints of nutmeg./ Big, burnished, and well tuned. Dried and spiced fruits, including fig. The real deal in ribolla gialla. 16.7. WT090308-09. 06 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, MATTHIEU DE BRULLY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet and lithe. A floral overtone. Is it peony? Pungent, pretty, forward pinot cherry and tea, with a raspberry note too. A charmer, beauty./ Yes, the fruit is adequately sweet and ripe, and well defined. The wine shows no evidence of chaptalization. Great 06 acidity. Really piquant, mouthwatering. This will be great with food. Well liked
by the group. An 06 to support. Hope there’ll be more like it. Fine value. 16.0+. WT090308-10. 06 SICILIA SYRAH-NERO D’AVOLA, LAGARIA - (ITALY) Ripe, dark, notable. Warm, smoky, roasted black fruits, including boysenberry./ Rich, but relatively flavorless in youth still. Decent acidity. Good density. Give it a chance. 15.3+. WT090308-11. 07 SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA, CUSUMANO - (ITALY) Full, fresh, and true nero. Black cherry and tar. Also spiced cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cigar box. Classic./ Yes, cherry, tar, peels. Plus plum, pomegranate juice, tobacco. Polished and supple. Nice counter-play of acidity and glycerol. Another good vintage for this wine. 16.2+. WT090308-12. 05 CHATEAU KSARA LE PRIEURE BEKAA VALLEY RED - (LEBANON) 30% each carignan and cinsaut; 20% each mourvedre and cabernet sauvignon. Yes, that intriguing mix of Med and Maritime France varietal influences. Of Midi and Aquitaine. The theme runs through all the Musar rouges too. It works. And when the wine is aged, it works even better. It’s a nice juxtaposition of ruffian and gentleman./ Oh, some nice wood
spices enter the picture too! This is indeed complex, rangy. Great acidity too. Fine value. Widely liked this evening. 16.4+. WT090308-13. 07 CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO RAPEL VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Young, but already the plush padding of carmenere’s purple fruits invites tasting. As well as the always lovely oak themes of Diablo wines./ The oak is rather stronger on the palate. That’s a factor of youth. Rich and satisfying. Good focus and proportion. Long aftertaste. Fine overall, in tune with the series. 15.8+. WT090308-14. 07 CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CENTRAL VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Sharp, raw black currant aroma. Young cabernet for sure. Nice, toasty oak extras–always a Diablo forte./ Leaner and more compact than the carmenere at this stage–no surprise. Good texture and fine tannin. Will take a few months longer to come forward than the carmenere. 15.6+. WT090308-15. 06 VINOS DE VILA FUNDACION CRUZ DE PIEDRA TINTO - (ARGENTINA) Malbec, bonarda, cabernet sauvignon. Cherry, blackberry, meat, smoke, brown spices. Bonarda floral accent. Euro, Med like./ Nicely burnished patina with layered and savory depths of flavor beneath. Juicy, meaty, smoky. Love the acidity and feel; it’s Euro. More vinous than fruity. Well balanced. Dan Kravitz knows how to make his New World wines
in a Euro mode. Thus, this wine was well liked by the Euro- and well as Calif-philes. Good value as always. 16.0+. WT090308-16. 07 BODEGA NORTON MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Alert, fresh, juicy. Lush and easy./ Yes, plenty of ripe, forward berry fruit. Rich and clear fruit. Good acidity too. In tune with the cleanly expressed Norton style. 15.8. WT090308-17. 05 RENWOOD SIERRA FOOTHILLS BARBERA - (U.S.) Fresh and rich. Unique and true. Warm and spicy. A proper Amador take on barbera, and true to the tradition of this cuvee./ Palate confirms all. Good wood comes into play too–as seasoning. The fruit is real barbera in the Amador fashion. 16.0. WT090308-18. 05 CLOS DU BOIS NORTH COAST SHIRAZ - (U.S.) Wood, cracked pepper, lavender, and black fruit. Some real syrah aromas. The usual combo of sweetness, oak, and firm framing of a Clos du Bois red./ Yes, sweet, woody, well structured. Pretty, juicy, spiced fruits, with a restrained refinement. Will be popular. In fact, well liked by many in the group. 15.6.
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