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- September, 2004 |
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Wednesday, September 29, 2004 wt092904-01. 2003
MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, CHATEAU DU CLERAY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fullness and ripeness of fruit for the
A.C. 2003 speaking. Fresh and vibrant fruit. Sur lie complex. So
full of botanicals, it's almost woody. Lots of grip and extract.
One bold Muscadet. Wow!/ Full again. Bright and piquant, and there's
lots of material and grip to take care of textural needs. 16.0 wt092904-02. 2003
QUINCY, DOMAINE MARDON - (FRANCE LOIRE)
Great grapefruit and gooseberry vitality. Lots of verve. Super-racy
for '03./ Again. Plenty of fruit: citrus range plus pear. Great
acidity, vigor. Good depth. Yes! 16.6. wt092904-03. 2001
COTES DE THAU, DOMAINE LA FADEZE QUATOUR
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, with a unique range of citrus-like
aromatics. Lots of fruit vitality and expressive for a Midi blanc./
Again. Spicy, racy fruit nature. 15.5. wt092904-04. 2003
GATO BLANCO VALLE CENTRAL CHARDONNAY -
(CHILE) Dull, vinous. Some undefined yellow fruits and light spiciness,
nerve./ Nearly fruitless; faint varietal character. Just wine. 12.0 wt092904-05. 2001
SAINT VERAN, DOMAINE DE LA CROIX SENAILLET
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lots of honey, lime, and peel. Shows development./
Again. Bouquet coming along. Nice and zesty and juicy '01 style
and taste. 16.1. wt092904-06. 2003
COTES DU RHONE VIOGNIER GRANDE RESERVE FUTS DE CHENE BLANC, CHATEAU
BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Good
apricot and flowers viognier nose, lush, warm, and ripe. Oak comes
into the picture later...in a complexing support role./ Good viognier
fruit flavors. And a nice exchange of viognier glycerined plumpness
on entry and cleansing bitterness at exit. The oak fits in nicely,
showing vanilla on the palate. Impressive, well crafted. 16.2. wt092904-07. 2003
SANTA JULIA TARDIO LATE HARVEST MENDOZA TORRONTES half liter - (ARGENTINA) Deep, fragrant, warm, intense. Floral,
exotic, distinctive. Botrytis notes./ Again. Racy, rich, botrytised
flavors, with a clinging botrytis-like texture. Lively citrus and
floral piquance. Interplay of warm honey and cool bergamot tones,
of sweetness and acidity. Fine. Needs time to develop the extra
bouquet complexities of the 2002. I have confidence it will find
its destiny. 17.0+. wt092904-08. 2002
GATO NEGRO VALLE CENTRAL CABERNET-MERLOT
- (CHILE) Good fruit: honest, fresh, and sweet./ But thin and dull
on the palate. Harsh aftertaste. 2002 speaking. 12.3. wt092904-09. 2003
GATO NEGRO VALLE CENTRAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (CHILE) Rather muddled fruit with smoky overtones. But there's
varietal character through it all./ Thick and rather dull, but,
again, there's varietal expression. Will it brighten up with time?
13.9+? wt092904-10. 2000
CHATEAU DE CAZENOVE, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Silver Medal - Big, assertive oak and black
fruits. Grip, reduction, peels, wood. Dense, compact, ambitious./
Lots of oak and lots of extraction. Plenty of power and full tannins.
Some bouquet peeking through, but, structurally, still a young claret.
15.7+. wt092904-11. 1999
AUDE L'INSOUTENABLE LEGERETE DU BARON, C. VIALUDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Hefty, earthy, raisined, rancio,
smoky. Lots of American (!) oak. Explosive black fruit./ Dill notes
confirm the oak is American. Animal tones. Generous fruit and even
more generous oak...perhaps too generous. 13.9. wt092904-12. 2003
MINERVOIS, TOUR BOISEE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Rich and ripe and just right 2003 fruit qualities. Sur-maturite
without rancio. Black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, sage. Fabulous
nose./ Again. Rich and ripe and well extracted. Juicy fruit joys,
fine tannins. Polished, supple, enticing. Isn't this vintage fun?!
15.9. wt092904-13. 2001
CASSAN TEMPRANILLO MAS DE COUY, TOUR PENEDESSE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, bright, reduced, and primary still.
Like a primeur. Exotic, floral, pretty./ Very fresh fruits and flowers
flavor. Mure: blackberry liqueur. Whole-bunch fermentation? Bold,
boisterous. Impressive youth and vitality. Nice. 15.8. wt092904-14. 2000
COTEAUX DE LANGUEDOC ANTIQUE GRAND TERROIR, TOUR PENEDESSE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich and reduced. Deep, dark
berries and flowers./ Very cool and reduced for the vintage and
its age. Keep further. 15.6+. Inquire about price. wt092904-15. 1999
COTES DE LUBERON, CHATEAU DE MILLE - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Oak-aged spiciness. Peppercorn too. Dried orange
peel and dark chocolate. Rich and rangy, and full for '99. Mature
fruit bouquet./ Mature flavor too–good bottle development. Cherry
cough syrup and eucalyptus. Less full than nose; more of the stylishness
of a '99. 16.0. wt092904-16. 2001
COTES DU RHONE VALVIGNEYRE, ALAIN PARET
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 2001 goodness, bright, lush, sexy. Smoky,
earthy black fruits: plum and black cherry./ Round, polished, generous.
Good depth. 15.0. wt092904-17. 2003
COTES DU RHONE LES SENS DE SYRAH, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Great syrah richness and range
of raspberry, peppercorn, bacon, cigar box, and lavender. The real
deal./ Lush and rangy. Really smacks the palate with a slap of flavor
intensity. Ripe but not overripe for southern syrah. Big, solid,
weighty, deep. This has it all...except oak. And I don't miss that
a bit. Hallmark southern syrah. 16.8. wt092904-18. 2001
COTES DU RHONE PREMIER TERROIR, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Good ripeness, garrigue, power.
Black pepper, summer sausage, licorice./ Rich and rangy. This is
a heavy hitter. Great, spicy garrigue range. 16.3. wt092904-19. 2000
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE CHANTE CIGALE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Firm, tough, compact, austere, sullen,
closed in, monolithic. Typical young Chante Cigale! No concessions
to modernity. Black fruits, tobacco, earth./ Smoky, leathery, old-time.
Big, dark, potent. Needs lots of cellar time. 16.8++.
Wednesday, September 22, 2004 wt092204-01. 2003
MACON VILLAGES DOMAINE LES CHENEVIERES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Breezy, well-focused apple and citrus
Maconnais chardonnay styling. Accurate, assertive, ripe, and engaging./
Handsome, stylish fruit delineation. Tender, sweetish, easy, attractive.
Good intensity, depth, and length. 15.8. wt092204-02. 2003
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES CHATEAU DES VIERRES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Strawberry-banana and cherry aromas.
Ripe, intense, generous, deep. Also cool and fresh./ Dramatic palatal
display–explosive, really. Plump, racy, juicy fruit. Full. Real
tannin presence. Good acidity, good grip. Lots of dry extract. Exceptionally
ageworthy for the appellation. 16.3. wt092204-03. 2003
REGNIE GRAND CRU, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Cool, composed, racy, elegant, intense. Lovely plum fruit,
well-tailored. ‘Wood’ spices. With time in the glass, it puts on
density and authority./ Very ripe, alcoholic, and tannic. Rhonish.
Fine breeding and balance for such a ripe, powerful wine. The fruit
is delicious–gorgeous, really. 16.4+. wt092204-04. 2003
MORGON GRAND CRU JEAN DESCOMBES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Very pretty, charming, floral, exotic.
Cherry blossom, brandied cherries, and maraschino–very typical of
Morgon and Descombes, and here exceptionally cool and elegant. More-so
than previous vintages, which is paradoxical given the exceptional
heat of ‘03./ Again, lots of cherry facets, including cherry candy.
Great acidity, carriage, depth. The most elegant Descombes in years,
and one of the best. 16.6. wt092204-05. 2003
FLEURIE GRAND CRU, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Very pretty–very classic Fleurie. Good, plush fruit texture
too. Dignified. Why Fleurie is the Queen of Beaujolais./ Racy, elegant,
well composed. Aristocratic. Exemplary of its appellation. 16.8. wt092204-06. 2003
FLEURIE GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES QUATRE VENTS, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) More concentration and power. Yet
the lovely floral qualities of the A.C. shine through./ More extract
and tannin here. Loaded. Chewy. Big. Yet still refined. Walks the
line. Distinctive. Will improve too. 17.1. wt092204-07. 2003
JULIENAS GRAND CRU, GEORGES DUBOEUF -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Elegant, racy, burnished, cool. Deep, dark, secretive./
Cool and reserved again. And with substance. Very finely burnished
texture. Delicious composition, balance. 16.5. wt092204-08. 2003
JULIENAS GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES POUPETS, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) More Julienas plum. More fruit to
offer. Rich and penetrating. Both pulp and peel./ Refined, racy,
measured. Very fine tannin and texture. A keeper. 16.4+. wt092204-09. 2003
JULIENAS GRAND CRU PRESTIGE, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) A class act. One of the finest demonstrations
I can recall of how to season--how to complex a wine with oak--without
dominating it. The oak makes a perfect partner. It contributes sophistication,
nobility. It fits in perfectly, seamlessly, with the very fine purple-plum,
Grand Cru breed and authority of Julienas gamay./ Perfect composition,
integration, posture. Exceptionally full, deep, and well-extracted.
And what a future! 17.4+. wt092204-10. 2003
MOULIN A VENT GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES ROSIERS, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Moulin a Vent power, command, gritty
extract, black manganese qualities. Cassis, blackberry, raspberry.
Gorgeous and strapping Moulin a Vent definition of gamay./ Balance
and reserve. Size and structure. Class and depth. Heavy, meaty,
masculine. The palate is less aromatic than the nose. That’s OK.
Give it time. 17.1+. wt092204-11. 2003
MOULIN A VENT CARQUELIN, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Special. Fine oak sophistication here. More
oak presence than in the Julienas Prestige. Moulin a Vent can take
it. This is grand. It transcends Beaujolais, even Grand Cru Beaujolais.
It’s off to a realm of its own. Moulin a Vent grip and power. Regal:
this is Moulin a Vent, the King of Beaujolais./ Again, there’s great
fruit mass and power, amply seasoned with fine oak. A big, fabulous,
striking, distinctive, ageworthy wine reminiscent in its ambition
of the 1976 Thorin Carquelin that gave me 15 years in the cellar,
but much more sophisticated. 17.5+.
Wednesday, September 15, 2004 wt091504-01. 1999
DIEBOLT-VALLOIS CRAMANT GRAND CRU FLEUR DE PASSION BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Very full, very assertive for Cote des
Blancs but, at the same time, replete with Cote des Blancs chardonnay
elegance. Fresh and finely mineral-etched. Fine and stylish citrus
fruit and brioche bottle bouquet./ Delicious bottle bouquet and
fruit development. Lovely apple and toast. Great finesse. Taut,
sleek, vibrant, stylish demeanor. Fine and steady mousse even after
2 hours open. More substantial than the ‘97. One grand-scaled chardonnay.
18.3. wt091504-02. 2001
COTES DU VENTOUX ELINE, DOMAINE DE MAROTTE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Intense plum and peel aroma. Very polished,
very intense. A beauty./ Lots of garrigue flair on the palate. Rich
fruit and fine tannin. This is better than the 2000. Superior fruit,
more purity, more focus. 16.7. wt091504-03. 2000
COTES DU RHONE, LOU FREJAU - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Sweet, savory barrel-aged bouquet incorporating both warm meat and
cool thyme aromas. Also purple berries, currants, and plums. Peel
extracts and ripe pulp. Licorice. Complex, for sure./ Spicy garrigue
and oak flavors add to the complexity. Both wild and brandied fruits.
Plenty of body, presence. Chateauneuf density. Very fine tannin.
Good now. 16.5. wt091504-04. 2001
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, LOU FREJAU -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Great garrigue flair and briary fruit. Intense,
concentrated, sweet fruit. Black cherry and anise./ Huge garrigue,
power, presence. Layers of spicy, brambly flavors. These Frejaus
sure take up space in both nostrils and mouth. 17.0. wt091504-05. 2001
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE LA CABOTTE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) A complete contrast in CdRV, clearly from
a cooler growing zone. A crisper wine, with more crunchy fruit.
Black fruits and peels, black pepper. Very cool cranberry and red
currant too. Garrigue nuances, especially rosemary. A little bouquet
forming around the fringes./ Again, very cool and crunchy. Great
acidity to accompany food. Meal wine, not show wine. Good aging
potential too. 16.0+. wt091504-06. 1999
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE DU HAUT DES TERRES BLANCHES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich, ripe, and almost syrupy.
Exceptionally thick for this estate and this vintage. A condensed,
reduced essence of fruit–spoonable fruit. Not jammy, not cooked
though. Lots of cooling anise notes too./ Rich and ripe indeed.
Very special for the estate and vintage. Don’t remember it quite
this demonstrative before. Time in bottle? Or cask? 17.4. wt091504-07. 1998
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE DU HAUT DES TERRES BLANCHES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, huge! Great fruit concentration,
especially at the core, which is deep down in, at the center of
all this mass. Animal tones of cask maturation too. Yow! This is
an essence of HdTB Chateauneuf. Garrigue, peppercorn, animal, glycerol./
Power and scope and glory. Big and broad, rich and concentrated.
Chateauneuf sophistication, breed. Fine tannin. Great poise. 17.8+. wt091504-08. 1998
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, CLOS ST. JEAN - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Very thick with fruit extract. A scent of toast I
hadn’t noticed in this wine previously. Deep, deep, deep. And quiet
at this stage. Licorice, dried berries, plum. Powerful./ Rich, rich,
rich. Spicy, warm, gamey, savory. The toast again. Keeper. 17.5+. wt091504-09. 2002
TRITTENHEIMER ALTARCHEN RIESLING KABINETT, ERNST CLUSSERATH - (GERMANY) Concise and racy nose. Cedar, flowers, green
apples, white peaches. Really fragrant, bright, and racy this vintage./
Again, race, vibrance, and ‘02 grip and extract. And great balance.
Stylish, piquant, charming. True Trittenheim elegance and more class
than any Altarchen I’ve ever tasted. The new generation is indeed
making a difference at this estate. 16.8. wt091504-10. 2003
BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER RIESLING KABINETT, WILLI HAAG - (GERMANY) Well, that was really good but...Oh! This
shows even more class, vigor, penetration. Way, way, way penetrating,
high-toned. Great walnut husk nose of slate-born riesling./ All
of the race and vigor and penetration, plus ‘03 richness, size,
authority. This must be the sort of has-it-all quality that gets
Terry Theise so excited about the vintage. 17.4. wt091504-11. 2003
ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT, DR. LOOSEN
- (GERMANY) Full, deep, peachy, and nectarous. But at the same time
delicate, refined...so very refined. Slate, fine herbs, and flowers.
Great concentration, aristocratic bearing./ Palate opens with ‘03
youthful plumpness, but it cannot hold down the swelling mass of
extract concentrated beneath. That sweet innocence of youth will
soon yield to the wine’s drier, sager, more serious character. A
commanding kabinett. 17.2+. wt091504-12. 2002
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING SPATLESE*, KEES-KIEREN - (GERMANY) Very floral and nectarous spatlese deserving
of its star status. High spatlese concentration. High-toned, perfumed,
penetrating. A whole bouquet of flowers. Very beautiful for a Graacher.
Nice touch of Graacher nuttiness./ A taste of apple, tangelo, flowers.
Ripe acidity. Good stony base. Beautiful and concentrated Mosel
riesling. 17.0. wt091504-13. 2003
NIERSTEINER ORBEL RIESLING SPATLESE, EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) Impressive grip, extract, and penetration.
Palpable nose. Big surprise from this estate. The wines usually
show less flair. Vintage speaking? New winemaker? Plenty of round
and peachy fruit too./ Yes, there’s that extract and grip again.
Plus spatlese plumpness and richness. Very generous, peachy, mouthfilling.
This is a fine value. 16.7. wt091504-14. 2003
RUDESHEIMER BERG ROTTLAND RIESLING SPATLESE, JOHANNISHOF - (GERMANY) Very full, solid, dense. Rudesheimer Berg
firm mineral base. Suave, creamy, exotic fruits, including red fruits
and lychee. Spices, perfumes, flowers, eau-de-vie. Complex indeed./
Huge, dramatic. Auslese intensity. Full, rich, racy, well extracted.
Very young still; lots more to come. 17.5+. wt091504-15. 2003
BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER SONNENUHR RIESLING AUSLESE, WILLI HAAG - (GERMANY) Gorgeous floral bouquet. Plus a cornucopia
of fruits and berries. Very deep, stately, nectarous auslese concentration.
But not a bit syrupy. Rather, lithe. Just a paragon of finesse,
sophistication, nobility./ Huge concentration and grip. Great purity.
Fabulous class here. 18.1+.
Wednesday, September 8, 2004 wt090804-01. 2001
MENETOU SALON MOROGUES CLOS DE RATIER, HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Quite a full yellow color./ Rich, creamy
Ratier nose. Plump and ripe. Ratier’s always like this; there’s
clay amidst the limestone. Bright acid foil./ Fat and powerful.
Dry and mineral-laced. The fruit maturity is flattering and calls
for different uses. Mealtime rather than aperitif. Aged goat cheese
instead of fresh goat cheese. 16.0. wt090804-02. 2002
MACON LA ROCHE VINEUSE, OLIVIER MERLIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full. The fullest Merlin LRV yet. Oak, apple,
and citrus. Strength and body./ Lots of presence, and force, and
body. Rich in both oak and fruit. Youthful. The acidity is still
a little coated. Save for 2005-2006. 16.1+. wt090804-03. 2002
MACON LA ROCHE VINEUSE VIEILLES VIGNES, OLIVIER MERLIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Much greater oak profile and flair.
Complex oak and old-vines fruit aromatics in complementary fashion.
Sweet old-vines core fruit. Lovely lemon and peel chardonnay characteristics.
Touches of pear, peach, minerals./ Rich oak and fruit. Meursault-like
for its nuts-and-grains complex. Wow! 16.9+. wt090804-04. 2002
SAINT VERAN DES PERSONNETS, COLLOVRAY & TERRIER - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good, smoky oak aroma. Full Saint
Veran richness. Clearly richer than the Macon Villages Personnets,
fine as that is./ Yes, rich and creamy. Good acidity, race. The
oak is fine: a seasoning. It’s measured and mixed nicely with the
fruit. Everything under control here. Real craftsmanship. by the
owners of Domaine des Deux Roches. 16.4. wt090804-05. 2002
SAINT VERAN VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE DES DEUX ROCHES - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) As always, there’s a different sort
of oak impression in each of Deux Roches’ Saint Veran cuvees. Here
it’s smooth and delivers aromas of vanilla, cream, and cake frosting.
Definite old-vines fullness to the fruit. Really great polish to
the nose. Exceptionally well crafted. Sometimes this cuvee is a
little aggressive when young. Not here./ Great fruit richness and
old-vines amplitude. Voluminous fruit and fine oak in balance. Super.
17.2. wt090804-06. 2002
EDELZWICKER, MARTIN SCHAETZEL liter -
(FRANCE ALSACE) Lightly honeyed, glycerined nose, racy, and showing
a high-toned and delicate gewurz fragrance over riesling honeysuckle
and pinot gris yellow fruits./ Spicy and piquant. Fresh and lively.
Very nicely polished, lanolined, harmonious presentation. Good,
cleansing trace of gewurz bitterness adds race to the finale. Delicious
right now. 15.7. wt090804-7. 2003
CHASSELAS, MARTIN SCHAETZEL - (FRANCE
ALSACE) Delicately fragrant and right. A really fresh vintage of
Alsace Chasselas. The most fragrance, the most varietal, character
I’ve ever encountered in a chasselas wine. Spicy-floral, grapey,
perfumed. Notes of baked apple and creme patisserie. Really a hallmark
effort. So this is what it’s all about!/ Soft and mellow, with a
light astringency to compensate for its mild acidity. Light and
lively, as it should be. 16.0. wt090804-8. 2001
RIESLING, DOMAINE MITTNACHT-KLACK - (FRANCE
ALSACE) Full ‘01 extract. Really grips. Lush too. Elegant floral
essences. And just the right measure of bouquet for its age./ Yes,
a fine balance of fruit and flowers, spiced honey, minerals, bottle
bouquet. Also of acidity and glycerol. Perfect poise. The best ‘regular’
Mittnacht riesling yet. 16.4+. wt090804-9. 2001
RIESLING COTEAU DU BLETTIG VIEILLES VIGNES, J-C RUHLMANN - (FRANCE ALSACE) Lovely, rich bouquet of fruit, flowers,
and frankincense. Satin texture. Noble bearing. Great minerality.
Perfect poise. A beauty./ Flowers and tropical fruits. Great acidity,
power, refinement, reserve. This has Grand Cru stature and lovely
‘01 expression. Best Blettig yet. 17.0+. wt090804-10. 2000
RIESLING CLOS SAINT ULRICH, DOMAINE MITTNACHT-KLACK - (FRANCE ALSACE) Good body. Nicely developed flowers
and resins on the nose–just right for its age. Very big, bold, rich,
generous./ Again, the flowers and resins of maturing riesling. Full
presence of acid, alcohol, extract. A big, bold mealtime riesling.
16.8+. wt090804-11. 2003
GEWURZTRAMINER VIEILLES VIGNES, J-C RUHLMANN
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Fine pomade nose as usual. And lots of barbershop
highlights. Very pungent, spicy, exotic, intense. Richness and ripeness
of the vintage./ Rich in alcohol and glycerol. Cool, racy bergamot,
bay, and laurel flavors. 2003 fatness, with good cut of acidity.
Nicely rendered and certainly in tune with previous vintages. 16.5. wt090804-12. 2001
GEWURZTRAMINER, DOMAINE MITTNACHT-KLACK
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Fresh and cool. A lot of mineral, race. ‘01 extract.
Intensely pomaded; seductive. Rosewater, ginger. Clearly more developed
than the Ruhlmann; it’s two years older, after all. Intense, and
full of flair./ Rich fruit, still-coated acidity. Thick and cool.
Cold cream gewurz assets. With the good, bitter foil at the finale.
Perhaps the best vintage yet here–certainly as good as the best
of the past. 16.4+. wt090804-13. 2001
GEWURZTRAMINER SPOREN GRAND CRU, DOMAINE MITTNACHT-KLACK - (FRANCE ALSACE) Very rich but subtle. The gewurz spices
are coated with honey, vanilla, and cream. Not as stern and aloof
as the ‘98./ Big, bold, structured palate befitting of Sporen. The
alcohol balances the rich, honeyed fruit coatings of peach and mango.
Loaded, complex, endless. Grand Cru indeed. 17.5+. wt090804-14. 2001
GEWURZTRAMINER KAEFFERKOPF GRAND CRU, MARTIN SCHAETZEL - (FRANCE ALSACE) Lush and powerful, with firm mineral
foundation and frame. Incisive, penetrating, cool, racy. Aromas
of lemon-drop, honey, spices, and flowers./ Ripe, juicy, exotic
tastes. Great gewurz bitterness to foil its fabulous fruit concentration,
glycerol, and power. This is massive, awesome. Grand vin! 17.7+. wt090804-15. 2003
MIRASSOU CALIFORNIA SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(U.S.) Sweet and tangy pink grapefruit nose. Nice./ Flavor echoes
the aroma. Racy. Singular. Nicely balanced. Good. 15.0. wt090804-16. 2002
NAPA VALLEY VINEYARDS RESERVE NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Very firm, lean, sleek lines with hard oak veneer./
Again. All is firmly packed in. Good form and acidity. Good, firm,
fine-grained oak. Just not very expressive, not very eager to please
at this stage. A deliberate style? Give it some time. 14.0+. wt090804-17. 2001
MIRASSOU CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet
cherry and licorice, red and black fruits. Nice depth. Thick and
generous. Right for warmer climate California merlot./ Some oak.
Certainly plenty of varietal character. Strong, rich, and generous.
15.6. wt090804-18. 2001
NAPA VALLEY VINEYARDS RESERVE NAPA VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet, rich cherry and cream nose. Nice oak
seasonings. Hints of sage and sassafras. More coastal, more Napa,
more refined./ Again the Napa and ‘01 cool elegance. Good oak management.
Good acidity and balance. 16.0. wt090804-19. 2001
NAPA VALLEY VINEYARDS RESERVE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Nice, smooth red and black fruits interlaced
with smoky oak. Napa cool and sleek./ Ripe, stylish black fruits.
Dry, and nicely balanced Napa cabernet. 15.5.
Wednesday, September 1, 2004 wt090104-01. 2003
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ESTATE RIESLING, DR. LOOSEN
- (GERMANY) Brilliant, brittle, cool, racy, reductive. In superripe
2003? Yow! What winegrowing!/ Balance of sweetness and vibrant acidity.
Great juiciness. Peach, citrus, minerals, flowers. Joyous. Can be
sipped and savored...or quaffed! What a bargain! 16.6. wt090104-02. 2003
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE - LOOSEN EROICA COLUMBIA VALLEY RIESLING - (U.S.) Less vitality. Stronger, thicker by comparison./
Strong, flat, and dull by comparison. I’ve admired and enjoyed previous
vintages in solo settings. I think this disappoints due to context,
not vintage. Goes to show the inimitable qualities of German riesling.
And look at the price comparison! 15.2. wt090104-03. 2002
CHIANTI CLASSICO, ROCCA DELLE MACIE -
(ITALY) Lean, very dark, compact sangiovese fruit. Rocca meets ‘02.
Good, tight aromatic concentration for ‘02. Dried fruit, earth,
smoke, leather./ But the palate betrays the vintage. Lean, tight,
astringent, hollow. 13.8. wt090104-04. 2002
BOURGOGNE, OLIVIER MERLIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Rich, rangy, textured, 3-D expression of pinot noir. Structured,
firm, still a kernel. Shows great potential to fill out, broaden,
deepen. Classic to the style of previous vintages of Merlin’s rouges.
Shows distinctive ‘02 qualities and the most potential of any vintage
to date./ Both rich and racy pinot expression, with lots of textural
interest. The oak is more apparent on the palate, always in harmony.
It’s deep-woven, soaked in, not a veneer. Oak and time-in-oak. Keeper.
16.4+. wt090104-05. 2002
BOURGOGNE, RENE LECLERC - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Tight, young. The oak is firm and discreet, more so than in some
former vintages of Leclerc Bourgogne. Maybe the fruit is just more
abundant, better endowed in ‘02. With air, the fullness of the wine
becomes more apparent. The aroma just balloons up, envelopes the
senses. Black cherry, cassis, tea. Rich, suave, deep, elegant, lovely.
So silky, so fine, so close-knit in the style of both Leclerc and
2002. And so confident of its future./ Rich pinot fruit. Gevrey
forcefulness. Super race–a Leclerc hallmark. Sensational Bourgogne.
This is Leclerc Bourgogne taken to the max. 16.8+. wt090104-06. 2002
GEVREY CHAMBERTIN CLOS PRIEUR, RENE LECLERC
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Rich, round, ripe concentration of pinot cherry
and fine oak. Tight too. Sweet cherry–cherry pie. And pure, precise
cherry–kirsch. Delivers both fruit-oak richness and finesse. Just
breathes class. A step up./ Rich and tight and balanced. Bright,
sleek, focused. Impeccable clarity of flavors. Great acidity, outstanding
depth, perfect poise–a complete Leclerc Gevrey. Great future here
too. This vintage really seems to agree with Leclerc. 17.2+. wt090104-07. 2002
GEVREY CHAMBERTIN LAVAUX SAINT JACQUES 1ER CRU, RENE LECLERC - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh! Extra class here! Rich and grand
style of Gevrey pinot. This is Grand Cru makings. ‘02 power and
breadth. Fabulous, explosive nose. Huge range of plush, velvety
fruits and Oriental spices./ Wow! Very lush. Wide, wide spectrum
of flavor sensations. Very, very special. The best LSJ I’ve tasted.
17.8+. wt090104-08. 2002
GEVREY CHAMBERTIN COMBE AUX MOINES 1ER CRU, RENE LECLERC - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Richer, broader, more powerful. But
less racy and aromatically stimulating at this stage. It’s a heavy
for sure. Very big. Great oak richness, race, aromatics (wood, Oriental
spices, caramel, smoke, roasted nuts). Plentiful cherry and blackberry
fruit. Again, Grand Cru stature and breed. No animal tones detected;
some former vintages had a gaminess. But maybe we’re tasting this
at an earlier stage./ Oh! Spicy oak, rich fruit, grand scale. Impressive
depth and striking clarity. Big indeed. Loaded for bear. Packed
in: more backward than the LSJ. 18.0++. wt090104-09. 2002
GRIOTTE CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU, RENE LECLERC
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) As usual, the heaviest, most powerful, and decidedly
most backward of the lot. Big, firm, tight-knit, reticent. Cherry,
blackberry, bitter chocolate./ Oh! This is big, big, big. Grand
Cru indeed. But so tight at this stage. At the finale, great drive,
great length. Decisive. 18.4++. wt090104-10. 2000
FERRARI CARANO WINDTREE ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Rich, plummy, and oaky; ripe and extracted.
Plentiful oak caramel and spices. Warm, robust Alexander Valley
cabernet fruit./ Complex and generous. Lots of sandalwood and brown
spices. Very racy. And there’s power too–ALV warmth and power. This
really delivers, especially in the context of the vintage. This
is actually F-C’s Grand Vin 2000 cabernet. A bargain. 16.3.
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