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Version - November, 2004 |
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Wednesday, November 17, 2004 wt111704-01. 2002
CHABLIS DOMAINE DE VAUDON, JOSEPH DROUHIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lots of apple-citrus fruit aroma. Cool and stony
Chablis terroir statement. Pure and precise, highly focused Drouhin
styling./ Fruit in spades and the stoniness that speaks Chablis.
Lovely Drouhin craftsmanship. Great purity and clarity. All one
could want in a village Chablis. Speaks the vintage too. 16.8. wt111704-02. 2002
CHABLIS MONTMAIN 1ER CRU, WILLIAM FEVRE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oak here. Restrained oak–the sort called for
in Chablis so as not to overwhelm its terroir statement. Delicate
floral overtones. Great refinement, reserve, delineation. Deft touch
on the part of the winemaker./ Both fruit and oak extracts give
grip. Premier Cru fullness, presence. Montmain stylishness. 17.1.
Both Chablis were well liked by the group. wt111704-03. 2002
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU, BOUCHARD PERE - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Lots of fine, light-toast oak. Chalonnaise body and grip./
Firm oak and fruit. Good terroir. Needs time to swell and deepen.
16.4+. wt111704-04. 2002
MEURSAULT LES CLOUS, DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) True and total Meursault presentation. Full,
flush terroir delivery. Good oak. Harmony of terroir, fruit, and
oak./ Oak vanillin sweetness and oak tannin. Big, full brandied
peach, grain, and nut Meursault statement. Compact, very well built.
A lot of subtleties. Fine potential. Good price. 17.2+. wt111704-05. 2002
BOURGOGNE LAFORET, JOSEPH DROUHIN - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Very bright and precise Drouhin styling. Focused ‘02 pinot
cherry beauty. Penetrates and titillates the nostrils. Thrilling,
really, to enjoy such fruit purity./ Great Drouhin fruit acidity.
Nice and juicy, lively. Fine tannins. Young still. Best ever? 16.4+. wt111704-06. 2002
BOURGOGNE EMOTIONS DE TERROIR, VINCENT GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sleek and polished Girardin approach. Cote de
Nuits purple fruit. Plenty of material here, suavely presented./
Lots of Cote de Nuits purple fruit flavor and grip. A very polished
Cote de Nuits, not a bit rustic. Well crafted. A fine value. 16.6+. wt111704-07. 2002
SANTENAY, BOUCHARD PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Very bright cherry. Red cherry of Cote de Beaune. Fine oak integration.
Presence, richness, generosity./ Compact. Great acidity. Less effusive
than nose. Holds more back in reserve. Needs time. 16.7+. wt111704-08. 2002
SANTENAY CLOS DE LA CONFRERIE, DOMAINE VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh, tangy, upbeat. Red cherry
and red currant. Nice oak toastiness. Lovely, perfumed, supple./
Cherry and tea flavors. Compact core surrounded by lush, ripe fruit.
Nice warm-spice oak kiss. Big, meaty black fruit and dark chocolate.
Exotic flair. Fine depth. 16.7+. wt111704-09. 2002
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET CLOS DE LA BOUDRIOTTE 1ER CRU, VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Deep-piled, plummy, purple, velvety.
Always the consummate Chassagne Montrachet rouge. Great oak perfume.
A potpourri of fruit and oak spices./ Great form, balance, freshness,
acidity. Long aftertaste. Age will fill it out even further. 17.6+.
Well appreciated by the group. wt111704-10. 2002
SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE LES SERPENTIERES 1ER CRU, VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Firm, meaty black cherry and crushed
stones aroma of Savigny. Lots of mineral savors, spices, and oak
char. Add blueberry and kirsch. Lots of material here./ Grip, extract,
fruit solids. Chewy. Loaded. My style of Savigny. Eschews the usual
Girardin ease. Much more material than the 2001. 17.4+. wt111704-11. 2002
SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE LES LAVIERES 1ER CRU, DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good oak and black cherry Savigny
fruit. Deep, solid, handsome, refined./ Ripe black cherry and mocha
flavors. Young and tight. Long chewy finish. Needs time for oak
integration and fruit expansion. 16.6++. wt111704-12. 2002
BEAUNE DU CHATEAU 1ER CRU, DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet, sassy, alluring Beaune ease.
Embracing. Welcome to Burgundy! Classic Beaune beauty. Gorgeous
black cherry fruit. Penetrates and charms./ Crisp, delicious, juicy
fruit. Feels and flavors fill all corners of the mouth and linger
long. Fabulous intro to Beaune, to Burgundy. 17.2+. wt111704-13. 2002
BEAUNE CLOS DES VIGNES FRANCHES 1ER CRU, DOMAINE VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Young. Very compact for Beaune. Great
freshness and vigor. Ripe black fruits, cocoa, toasty oak./ Tight
and oak-framed. Spicy oak and fruit. Great acidity. Great future.
An ambitious Beaune, as we’ve seen so often from this vineyard.
17.0++. Well appreciated by the group.
Wednesday, November 10, 2004 wt111004-01. 2003
MONTEVINA CALIFORNIA SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(U.S.) Both rich and bright. Pear, ripe gooseberry. / Both sweetness
and cut. Ripeness and briskness. Juicy. Balanced. Complete. Charming.
This should have broad appeal. 16.0. wt111004-02. 2003
MONTAGNY, JOSEPH DROUHIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Milder oak than usual in this cuvee. Well integrated. Sleek, subtle
citrus and stones. Some vanilla and butterscotch from oak and ripe
‘03 fruit./ Yes, nice, sweet vanilla oak. Sweet fruit, good, vibrant
acidity. Well crafted, well-structured. This has finesse. 16.3+.
Well liked by many this evening. wt111004-03. 2003
TRINCHERO VISTA MONTONE NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Rich in oak and fruit. More ripe, realized fruit and less
youthful astringency than what I remember tasting 11/7. Still a
lot of bitter tea of youth though. But less. Getting better by the
day?!/ Again, rich oak and very precise cherry-berry fruit. Tannin
to shed. Fine pinot with a good future. 16.4+. Well liked by the
group. wt111004-04. 2002
VAN DUZER WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Very bright and spicy cherry fruit and peel, and oak. Strawberry,
tea, sachet, and toast highlights. Best ever from Van Duzer./ Sweet
fruit and fine, spicy oak. Mild acidity. Lots of current appeal.
I can see the high ratings. 16.2. wt111004-05. 2003
CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO RAPEL VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Sweet, dark fruit and flashy wood spices. Dense./
Plenty of fruit, well extracted. Enough oak for added flavor interest.
Sweet and sassy. A lot of preseent appeal; in fact, almost too easy.
15.5. wt111004-06. 2000
TRINCHERO MAIN STREET VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Toasty oak and firm, ripe cabernet fruit. Pencil-box
highlight. Young./ Good richness. Very refined, polished oak. Noteworthy
oak quality on the palate. Good, solid cabernet fruit. A really
great palate carries its present usefulness. Nose needs time to
develop more. 16.7+. wt111004-07. 2002
CHARLES CIMICKY TRUMPS BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Barossa sweetness. Dense, lush, big Barossa black
cherry fruit statement, with overtones of sandalwood, brown spices,
bramble, and bitter chocolate. Good frame, reserve./ Sweetly fruity
and oaky Barossa style. Fennel, eucalyptus, and berry leaf notes.
Well-proportioned and giving. Much different from the ‘01, with
its 65% grenache component. 16.2. wt111004-08. 2002
MITOLO JESTER MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Deep, purple, floral aroma. Cool for an Aussie shiraz. ‘02 talking.
McLaren versus Barossa talking. Good wood-toast seasoning. Rhone-like,
with black pepper zest and lavender./ Fine oak toast. Cool, refined.
Violets and other purple flowers and fruits. Very fine acidity.
Good value. 16.8+. wt111004-09. 2002
HEWITSON NED & HENRY’S BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Sweet and ripe. Thick, candied fruit and
chocolate Barossa riches. Green peppercorn note. Toast, sawdust,
and sweet vanilla oak aromas./ Sweet berry, wood, vinosity. Round,
buxom, enticing Barossa style. 16.4. wt111004-10. 2003
TORBRECK WOODCUTTER’S RESERVE BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Wow! Lovely cinnamon, star anise, blackberry,
cassis, and a touch of vanilla. Seductive and eager./ Delicious.
A mouthful. Sweet and nutty Barossa style. A complex wine. To enjoy
now. 16.3. wt111004-11. 2003
WEINHEIMER RIESLING SPATLESE HALBTROCKEN, GERNOT GYSLER - (GERMANY) Airy, penetrating, cool, reductive, juicy,
fine. Pear, peach, citrus, mineral, woods. Boy, has this estate
improved!/ Vibrant and penetrating. Grip and great, racy, green-grape
fruit almost like a Mosel. Very, very zingy, tangy, almost brittle.
Super-precise. Fine depth, potential. 17.0+ wt111004-12. 2003
ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT, MEULENHOF
- (GERMANY) Cool slate of Erden. Deep and penetrating apple, pear,
nectarine, nut, and flowers aromatic complex. Sooo fine. Great finesse./
Wow! Rich and penetrating. Floral highlights on palate too. The
acidity is very fine-grained and silky and supplies superb cut for
the ‘03 plump fruit. Well surpasses kabinett norms. 17.0+. wt111004-13. 2003
LEIWENER LAURENTIUSLAY RIESLING SPATLESE, CARL LOEWEN - (GERMANY) Upper Mosel coolness and delicacy. Penetrating
perfume. Cool terrarium overtone. Lots of finesse here. Dense, compact,
solid. Needs time to reveal more./ Wow! Way rich; must be auslese
weight and concentration here. Juicy and sweet lemon, honey, and
strawberry flavors. In fact, positively succulent. Acidity very
fine-textured, vibrant, sassy. Fine depth. Great future. 17.4+. wt111004-14. 2003
NIEDERHAUSER HERMANNSHOHLE RIESLING SPATLESE EDITH ELISABETH, JACOB
SCHNEIDER - (GERMANY) Sweet but also tingly.
Some of both the old and the new Schneider nicely integrated in
this wine. Very juicy. Exotic scent complex. Lovely, stylish, defining
Mittel Nahe./ Full spatlese sweetness in tandem with fine, cool,
racy fruit acidity. In reality, this has to be an auslese. Remarkable
finesse. One of the most attractive textures, mouth-feels, I have
ever experienced. 17.3. wt111004-15. 2001
DEIDESHEIMER KALKOFEN RIESLING SPATLESE, DR. DEINHARD - (GERMANY) (Gold Kammerpreis) - Very floral, very pure.
Bouquet of peach, apricot, and honey follows. Clear extract and
grip of ‘01./ Mid-age edelfirne development shows great finesse,
indicating this wine will age very, very gracefully. Fabulously
fine Pfalz riesling feels and flavors. Fine acidity and minerality
tames the sweetness. Lovely Mittelhaardt riesling classic. Complete.
17.3. wt111004-16. 2003
URZIGER WURZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE #19, ALFRED MERKELBACH - (GERMANY) Gorgeous strawberry blossom that is Merkelbach
Urziger. Lush and deep. High auslese. Size, reserve, depth, grace,
finesse. Very fine Wurzgarten zestiness./ Yes, very zesty. Big,
rich, racy, sassy. Great cut and minerality to balanced the sweetness.
Long, juicy aftertaste. Fabulous! 17.6. wt111004-17. 1997
VOUVRAY MOELLEUX CLOS BAUDOIN. PRINCE PONIATOWSKI - (FRANCE LOIRE) Power, apple, ‘97 roti. Honey, straw,
botrytis, nuts, cigar box. Huge peel extracts. Complex and loaded,
but painfully young still./ Young indeed. Apple and peel. Tremendous
size, grip. Botrytis almond. Only beginning to ascend its maturity
curve. Fine potential. 17.0++. wt111004-18. 2000
LILLY PILLY NOBLE RIVERINA WHITE half bottle
- (AUSTRALIA) Plenty of botrytis. Sleek and high-toned. Citrus,
apricot, honey, caramel. Tingly ginger nip of gewurztraminer./ Sweet
and thick. Heavy and totally botrytised. Apricot, pineapple, tea.
Great acidity and grip. Fine concept: lush semillon basis, gewurz
and riesling flairs. Unique in the world of wines, I’d venture.
Exceptionally generous. 17.8+.
Wednesday, November 3, 2004 wt110304-01. A.
ROBERT LE MESNIL/OGER GRAND CRU RESERVE BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Quite developed bottle bouquet; very toasty.
A manly champagne, classic to the big Le Mesnil style. Nice resolve./
Solid; very authoritative and very Le Mesnil. Citrus and minerals.
Lively acid backbone. Very long finish. Fine job. 92/100. wt110304-02. MAESTRO
SPARKLING CHARDONNAY-PROSECCO - (SPARKLING)
(80% chardonnay, 20% prosecco) - A combo of chardonnay apple and
prosecco apple, with peel aromas and some perfume./ Nice and tender
and balanced. Honest, simple, friendly. 14.8. wt110304-03. 2003
SOUTHERN RIGHT WESTERN CAPE SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (SOUTH AFRICA) (By Hamilton Russell, the Cape’s best pinot noir
maker) - Brisk and rich. Well done. Gooseberry, citrus, pineapple,
passion fruit. Richness and distinction of Cape sauvignon./ Full
and strong. Very dry, tensile, a bit stark and metallic even. Great
acidity and welcome trace of astringency. Definitely a food wine.
16.1. wt110304-04. GALLO
TWIN VALLEY CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Chardonnay musque. Apple. Reasonably clean, bright, tangy./ Sweetish,
soft, mild. Less definition on the palate. 13.6. wt110304-05. 2003
WEINVIERTEL AUERSTHAL GRUNER VELTLINER TROCKEN, H&M HOFER liter - (AUSTRIA) Very fragrant for GruVe. Must be ripe 2003
talking. Sweet, floral nose. Hand cream aroma. Beneath, the more
conventional aromas of wax, lanolin, lentil, artichoke./ Dry palate.
And more vinous, less fragrant than nose. Balanced. Lively, zippy
acidity. Light-hearted, easy-drinking refresher. Bottle shape invites
you to simply tip it back.. Good value. 16.1. Well liked by the
group. wt110304-06. 2001
FRANCONIA TROCKEN, STAATLICHER HOFKELLER WURZBURG - (GERMANY) At a good stage, with just a suggestion of
bottle bouquet formed. Steely Franconia and 2001 style. Incisive.
Aromas of flowers, honey, orange rind, and cold steel./ Rich. Honey
and steel flavors. Good 2001 concentration of extract. Well balanced.
An excellent and intriguing bottle. Good value. 16.0. Well liked
by the group. wt110304-07. 2003
SIEFERSHEIMER RIESLING TROCKEN, WAGNER-STEMPEL liter - (GERMANY) Wow! What great floral perfumes and tingly
reductive crispness and clarity. Apple, pear, and peach fruits,
and minerals. Great class, great definition, purity, precision,
vibration. Definitely along the Muller-Catoir and Donnhoff lines./
Dry and sophisticated. More austere than the nose. Powerful and
incisive. Sharply focused. Penetrating depth. Good terroir statement.
Luckily, there’s a high-Trocken measure of r.s. to soften its austerity,
and, overall, the picture is well balanced. Big, commanding, mealtime
riesling. Good value in liter. 16.8. wt110304-08. 2003
PFALZ RIESLING HALBTROCKEN, HERBERT MESSMER liter - (GERMANY) Wow! The nose is even drier and more incisive.
Very crisp and clear riesling fruit. Pear and loquat./ Great grip
and extract. Chewy minerality. Less aromatic flair. Lots of textural
interest. Charm, depth, vibrancy, flair. Little or no sense of sweetness;
it’s all seamlessly engaged. Definitely a mealtime riesling. Yum!
16.7. wt110304-09. 2000
NIERSTEINER PETTENTHAL RIESLING KABINETT, ANTON BALBACH - (GERMANY) Honeyed, maturing./ Again, showing development.
Fat, soft 2000 and Hessen riesling styling. Fully mature; still
reserves interest and vitality. 13.0. wt110304-10. 2003
WEINHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT, GERNOT GYSLER
- (GERMANY) Incisive, tangy, crisp, bright, reductive. Juicy citrus
fruits, melon, and minerals. With the new generation in charge,
this estate is coming up fast. And from humble origins./ ‘03 richness,
sweetness. There’s also juice, cut, and mineral. Racy and penetrating.
Pink grapefruit suggestion. Very , very generous and pleasing. 16.4. wt110304-11. 2003
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ESTATE J-J RIESLING, J-J CHRISTOFFEL - (GERMANY) Tingly, penetrating, palpable aroma. Mittel
Mosel crispness and green-grape vitality. Rich honey and lush tropical
fruit frosting. Peach and lemon curd./ Lime, lemon, and apple flavors.
Tingly feel. Thick extract that clings and prolongs the aftertaste.
Great class. Upholds the estate’s reputation. 17.0. wt110304-12. 2003
DURKHEIMER FEUERBERG PORTUGIESER WEISSHERBST, KURT DARTING liter - (GERMANY) Zesty red fruit. Red raspberry confit. Very
tangy , cranberry-like peel extracts. Sweet and rosy./ Plump and
penetrating, urgent, immediate. This is an easy style, just as intended.
The acidity is mild and typical of the varietal. Well, perhaps a
little milder than usual due to the warmth of the vintage. This
will appreciate a good chilling for refreshment. That won’t dampen
its exuberant aromatics. 16.2.. wt110304-13. 2003
KREMSTAL BLAUER ZWEIGELT, E&M BERGER liter
- (AUSTRIA) Cool, reduced, reclusive, ascetic./ Again. A lean, very
dry wine with no compromising softness. The opposite of a Show Wine.
No sign of 2003 warmth and ripeness. Boy, this must be a bear in
a cool vintage! Needs food. 14.3. Ric and Jorge’s notes parallel
mine, but Rod has a totally different take: ‘Earthy, pungent, whole-berry
fermentation, spicy black fruits./ Solid, spicy, very mouthfilling.
Fine depth, racy edge. Full of charm. Easy to drink lots. 15.8.
Same wine? wt110304-14. 2003
WILLIAM FEVRE GRAN CUVEE DE LA VINA LA MISION MAIPO VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Now here’s a Show Wine! Sweet pomegranate carmenere
fruit, plentiful oak, and licorice. Powerful too. This delivers
the goods./ Rich and large. Licorice and earth. More power. A lot
of wine for under $10. This baby will have lots of ‘big-wine’ fans.
16.0. wt110304-15. GALLO
TWIN VALLEY CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.)
Sweet, somewhat reductive fruit. Not a lot of varietal definition../
Sweet fruit again. Decent depth. 11.6. wt110304-16. GALLO
TWIN VALLEY CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Good cabernet fruit statement, solid and black. Cassis,
blackberry, Valley anchovy./ Sweet black fruits. Good cheap cabernet.
13.3. Others preferred the merlot. wt110304-17. 1998
BARBERA D’ALBA, MAZZINO - (ITALY) Good
tar and peel grip. Barbera acidity, vigor, assault. Bold. Black-fruit
‘98 statement./ Yes, ‘98 darkness and grip. Fruit peel, black cherry,
licorice. Good power. Fine barbera acidity. Honest, hearty, rustic,
meal-worthy, old-time barbera. Nothing Gucci about this. Real value.
15.8+. Well liked by the group. wt110304-18. 2002
SOUTHERN RIGHT WESTERN CAPE PINOTAGE -
(SOUTH AFRICA) Aromas of both parents, pinot noir and cinsault.
The pinot cherry and tea. The cinsault burnt orange. Plus tobacco,
underbrush, game, bitters, shoe leather./ Good acid bite, fine tannin.
Brisk and focused. Pretty demonstrative now and will show even more
with further aging. 16.0+.
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