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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
-May, 2009
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Wednesday, May 27, 2009 WT052709-01. 08 FAIRVALLEY WESTERN CAPE CHENIN BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Melon, apple, quince. Cool and uplifting./ Delicious savor, texture. Good richness, weight, and varietal clarity. Dry and meal-worthy. Lots of citrus savor. The right stuff. 16.0. WT052709-02. 08 PICPOUL DE PINET, LES COSTIERES DE POMEROLS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Crisp and full. Better in youth than usual. Fresh, cool, fragrant, stony. I just finished telling the group about how I’ve liked this wine better in fall than in spring over the last few vintages, and here this 08 steps up to the plate and gets an instant hit. Citrus and pear. Quince, dried flowers. Nice./ Good brace, minerality. Cool and racy citrus and melon. Nice body. Good, cool year for the Med whites and roses. Enjoyed by the group. 16.2. WT052709-03. 08 GUENOC CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.) Very aromatic for pinot gris. Lots of peach, lemon, custard. Nice and fresh./ Yes, fresh, cool, and peachy. Good acidity. Ideal successor for the good 06. Enjoyed by the group. 16.1. WT052709-04. 07 CHABLIS CHAMPS ROYAUX, WILLIAM FEVRE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Apple, quince, peel, calcaire, marl, flint. 07 sweet fruit too./ Bright, pointed acidity. Grip and tightness yet.. This was just shipped and may be a little reticent due to that. No problem. This has a lot of promise. 16.4+. WT052709-05. 07 OCEANA CALIFORNIA RIESLING - (U.S.) Sweet, canned apricot nectar nose. Abundantly fruity; tutti-fruiti./ Apricot and grip of the peels. Plus orange and soft tropical fruits, including guava. Flowers too. Sweet. No secrets. Lays everything on the table. Would never be mistaken for a German riesling. 14.2. WT052709-06. 06 LEGACY JIDVEI TARNAVE VALLEY GEWURZTRAMINER - (ROMANIA) A little sulphur to start. Genuine gewurz gets through. Rose, lychee, bergamot, ginger, tonic, vermouth./ Palate echoes all and adds poached peach. Lightly sweetish. Balanced. Nice value. 15.8+. WT052709-07. 08 COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE, LA VIEILLE FERME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh and crisp and bright. Wow! Raspberry, strawberry, and peppercorn. Rich and generous./ The palate is not as fulfilled as the nose. Still edgy, unsettled, unfocused. See again in mid summer. 15.6+. WT052709-08. 08 SANTA JULIA MENDOZA PINOT NOIR - (ARGENTINA) Identifiably pinot, but sweet, mild, tame./ Both sweet and tart. True varietal character. But still off balance. Revisit a few months down the line. 14.4+. WT052709-09. 08 KEN FORRESTER STELLENBOSCH PETIT PINOTAGE - (SOUTH AFRICA) Fresh fruit of youth. Dark berries, fruit peels, cinnamon. Smoked, spiced, and roasted meats./ Bright, crisp fruits. Smoky, meaty, leathery background. Still edgy, but already showing a proper expression of Cape pinotage with the usual brett-dekk syndrome. 15.8+. WT052709-10. 07 PELEE ISLAND ONTARIO CABERNET FRANC - (CANADA) Good northern cabernet franc. Compact and cool. Quite fruity in the good and ripe 07 vintage. Raspberry, smoke, tobacco./ Yes, fruity, showing varietal red raspberry qualities. Great acidity. Sleek and well balanced. One of the best they’ve made. Food, please. Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT052709-11. 06 CHATEAU HAUT BARAILLOT, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Eleve en futs de chene. Dufourg @ Targon. 50% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc. Very ripe fruit up front, with cool background. Kirsch and tea. Shades of both 03 and 06./ Plenty ripe. Some oak tannin, grip. Yes, the palate has a ripeness, softness, and texture of a warmer vintage. Even 03. Good weight and depth. Well liked by the group. 15.8+. WT052709-12. 05 CHATEAU PICHON BELLEVUE, GRAVES DE VAYRES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 60% merlot, 20% each of the cabernets. A Grave de Vayres rouge! Yes! Haven’t seen one in over 20 years. Cool, intense, clarety. 05 controlled ripeness and harmony. Some oak influence. More time in barrel than wood extracts. Mocha, dulce de leche./ Ripe and elegant. The balance of 05. Neat stuff. Very well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT052709-13. 08 TERRE DI CHIETI SANGIOVESE, GRAN SASSO - (ITALY) Lots of polish. Apple, raspberry, and cranberry fresh fruit. Fresh, boisterous, and bright. Smells more like a young tempranillo than sangiovese./ Again, very fresh, polished fruit. Rich and expressive. Well stated. Great acidity. There’s a sense of immediacy, but I think it will be better in 6 months. Meanwhile, you could probably serve it cool over the summer. 15.8+. WT052709-14. 07 BARBERA D’ASTI SURI, VILLA GIADA - (ITALY) Dense, smoky red and black fruits. Rich and right./ Plum and cranberry. Both rich and racy. Great fruit acidity. Tart purple qualities too. Boysenberry. I remember that from the last encounter in March. Intense, packed, well balanced, well focused. Fine aftertaste. Will fill out nicely over the coming months. 16.0+. WT052709-15. 06 DOURO, QUINTA DO CRASTO - (PORTUGAL) 50% roriz, 20% barroca, 15% touriga francesca, 15% touriga nacional. Sweet and woody. Black plum, black currant, chocolate, tobacco, potpourri. Complicated. Dark and fresh. Big and deep./ Yes, the wood, the purple fruit, the black depth, the edge. Rich fruit padding balanced by fine fruit acidity. Totally intense. Very engaging. Very long, welcome aftertaste. What Douro tinta is all about. Well liked by the group. 16.8+. WT052709-16. 07 DON RODOLFO CAFAYATE VALLEY TANNAT - (ARGENTINA) Ripe, sweet, meaty Cafayate red. Blueberry, tea, flowers, coconut, camphor./ Rich, appropriately tannic, powerful, ruddy, beefy, oaky. Rough boy. Needs to grow up and learn some manners. 15.8+. WT052709-17. 08 MOSCATO D’ASTI LA SERRA, MARCHESI DI GRESY - (ITALY) Very floral, talc like. Cool and bright. Lifted./ Orange, pear, peach, and cologne. Rich and seductive. Stylish, sweet, light bodied (5.5%), and easy to down. 16.4.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009 WT052009-01. 08 CASA SILVA RESERVA COLCHAGUA SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Sharp and grassy. Lots of citrus peel. Mineral, if you were. Good intensity./ Yes, grassy, citric. Not grapefruit; more lemon-lime, maybe seville orange. Refreshing now. One of the better 08 Chilean sauvignons we’ve tasted. 15.8. WT052009-02. 07 PINOT BLANC RESERVE, PIERRE SPARR - (FRANCE ALSACE) Cool pinot blanc green fruits. Penetrating. Stony. A proper smooth and gentle side too./ Racy, stony, savory. Seems pretty pinot blanc dominant; not a lot of auxerrois creaminess. Dry, but not austere; there’s a certain tenderness of 07 too. 16.2. WT052009-03. 07 OC VIOGNIER, CODE INSPIRATION, VIGNERONS DE CERS PORTIRAGNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Good varietal perfume. Honeysuckle. Mock orange./ Very fruity. Nice and sweetly ripe but still cool fruit demeanor. Adequate acidity. No astringency. Certainly a fine value in viognier. Liked by the group. 16.0. WT052009-04. 07 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU, THE FURST - (FRANCE ALSACE) Wow! Full Grand Cru size, depth, majesty, significance. And total Schlossberg elegance. Full mineral savor./ Yes, the Schlossberg and 07 grace notes. The body, savor, extract, balance. Perfect composition, in fact. 17.1+. WT052009-05. 07 RIVER’S EDGE UMPQUA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Lots of oak. A bit much at this youthful stage. The fruit is attractive and revealing nonetheless. Cherry and rose petal. Soft and elegant pinot./ Again, the oak and its vanillin and caramel facets come to the fore. There’s adequate fruit behind. Maybe this just needs time to homogenize. I don’t recall this frank an oak statement in previous River’s Edge pinots. 16.0+. WT052009-06. 06 LA PLAYA BLOCK SELECTION COLCHAGUA CLARET - (CHILE) 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% carmenere, 15% petit verdot. Good, ripe, rich fruit, especially for the vintage. Deep and variegated fruit and oak melange. Cabernet black currant, berries, spice. The oak is well integrated./ Flavors of oak, carmenere earthiness. There’s cabernet framing. And petit verdot fruit intensity. A good effort this vintage, and one of the best
in the series. 16.0+. WT052009-07. 06 COTES DU MARMANDAIS SELECTION, GRAND BOSQUET - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) From east of Bordeaux, south of Bergerac. Abouriou, a traditional player here, was once popular in California, where it was called Early Burgundy. The other local variety, fer, offers color, concentration, and sometimes a hint of rhubarb. 34% merlot, 7% cabernet sauvignon, 28% abouriou, 9% fer, 2% syrah. Big and black. No 06 slightness. Rangy, spicy,
ripe./ Fig, red berries, hint of fennel. Has charm. Very friendly, useful. Good value. 15.6. WT052009-08. 07 OC MERLOT CODE EMOTION, VIGNERONS DE CERS PORTIRAGNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Good and ripe. None of the blackness and meanness of many an Oc merlot. Maybe the quality of the vintage helps. Spicy and cool./ Yes, sweetish, jelly-jam like. Even candied. Some purple fruit–boysenberry. Good grip, fruit quality. 14.8. WT052009-09. 07 OC SYRAH CODE PASSION, VIGNERONS DE CERS PORTIRAGNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) A good, sweet Oc take on syrah. Black raspberry, light peppercorn dusting. Pretty./ Yes, varietal qualities. Red and black fruits, a certain nuttiness, and a hard-candy fruit intensity. 15.3. WT052009-10. 03 RIBERA DE DUERO CRIANZA NOVA, POMPEDRAZA - (SPAIN) All tempranillo. Still dark colored. Now showing crianza red fruit and oak in balance. And leathery notes of mature barrel and bottle bouquet./ Sweet fruit that’s still vigorous. Oak vanillin. Still some 03 large tannins. A rugged individual that I’d prefer in the cold months. However, I wouldn’t turn it down at a summer pig roast. 15.6. WT052009-11. 06 RIBERA DE DUERO ROBLE NOVA, POMPEDROZA - (SPAIN) All tempranillo. Lovely 06 cool fruit, slow-ripened. Spice and berry. 06 charm./ Yes, very spicy, brambly. Black olive too. The fruit nature and stoic quality of the vintage. Both oak and fruit tannin. Intriguing aging possibilities. Unusually ageworthy for the price. Well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT052009-12. 06 TORO, TR1 - (SPAIN) I hate to identify a producer by a series of letters and numbers, but the back label gives no useful information–just more letters and numbers. Powerful (14%), ripe, and intense. Some oak influence. Ripe to the max–roasted ripe in the Toro manner, not rancio, jammy./ Warmth, heft, and spiciness of a Toro with nothing to fear. A very large, winter oriented table wine. Lots of tannin, countered
by the right measure of sweet, ripe fruit, dried fruit, brandied fruit. I guess you could use it with BBQ in summer, but I’d prefer to leave it for the cold months. Will have softened some by then too. A textbook, full-blooded Toro at an incredibly reasonable price. Liked by the group. 16.0++. WT052009-13. 05 DOURO ADRIANO, RAMOS PINTO - (PORTUGAL) Purple, deep, satiny, fine. This has strength, richness, focus./ Wow! Purple plum, licorice; intense, mouthfilling. Sweet fruit and fine oak tuning. Fine grained tannins. Depth and definition. One of the best in the series. 16.4+. WT052009-14. 06 COTEAUX DE BESSILLES RESERVE, DOMAINE SAINT MARTIN DE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet fruit in the 06 dark mode. Lots of cracked pepper. Some garrigue, if not as much showing as in the last two vintages. The contriteness of a young 06./ Yes, this is 06 purple, racy. Peppercorn and garrigue again. Really great fruit acidity. This will age well. And it needs it, as it’s not as aromatic as several previous
vintages at this age. 16.2++. WT052009-15. 07 BERNKASTELER KURFURSTLAY RIESLING SPATLESE, HIRSCHBACH - (GERMANY) Some sharpness and wet wool aroma of SO2 Not too aggressive, and they air off./ Palate is sulphur free and sweet. Good acidity for balance and mealworthiness. This is tasty, if not up to the quality, range, and intensity of the Selbach. 15.8+. WT052009-16. 08 ROBERTSON VINEYARDS SPECIAL LATE HARVEST ROBERTSON GEWURZTRAMINER - (SOUTH AFRICA) As good as always. Fresh, fetching, sweet smelling. Rosewater, cold cream. Nice ginger nip. Good interplay of the smooth and the incisive. Pungent and unrestrained./ Sweet and full of gewurz rosewater and glycerin countered by a really zesty ginger bite. Plus orange peel, chamomile, lychee, apricot, flowers. They’ve done it again!
16.4. WT052009-17. BOONES FARM AMERICAN WILD CHERRY - (FRUIT) Flavored apple wine. 7.5%. Sweet black cherry. Cherry cordial. Some almond./ Cherry and creme. Cherry cordial. Sweet, with mild acidity. Light spritz. Not as inspiring as the watermelon. 15.0.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009 WT051309-01. 07 PINOT BLANC, THE FURST - (FRANCE ALSACE) Good, brisk nose of pinot blanc green fruits. Really swells and fills the nostrils./ While the nose speaks stronger for pinot blanc, the palate offers the softer, richer take of pinot auxerrois. Even a cool peach impression. Good acidity. Well crafted and very entertaining. 16.2. WT051309-02. 07 STONE CELLARS CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.) Crisp; well named; it speaks of NE Italy styling. Apple, melon, nut. Yes, this is real pinot grigio./ Cool, racy, well braced. Good acidity. Nice, refreshing finish. I think California does better at pinot gris than chardonnay in the low price brackets. 15.7. WT051309-03. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH GRUNER VELTLINER HUGO, HUBER - (AUSTRIA) Very intense nose of green apple and legumes. Sweet pea, hint of talc. Ventilating overtones of hyssop, catnip./ Yes, this is intense stuff. Rich and sassy. Soft core laced through with acidity. Well balanced, well crafted. A textbook gru-ve that really pumps out the varietal aromatics. Liked by the group. 16.1. WT051309-04. 07 STONE CELLARS CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) The obligatory oak chipping, but not too blatant./ However, oak and oak vanillin dominate the palate. Little room for varietal expression. Woody aftertaste that denies any chance for refreshment. Go for the grigio. 14.0. WT051309-05. 08 RUDESHEIMER DRACHENSTEIN RIESLING DRAGONSTONE, JOSEPH LEITZ - (GERMANY) Rich, golden Rheingau tones of peach and orange. 08 frame, cut, penetration, minerality./ Apple, pear, stone fruit, spice. Really tingy and racy fruit acidity to balance the usual Leitz sweetness. Plenty of peach and orange and mineral character. Reads Rheingau. And it’s gulpable and mealworthy besides. 16.5. WT051309-06. 06 KREUZNACHER ST. MARTIN RIESLING KABINETT, SCHLOSS PLETTENBERG - (GERMANY) Lots of peach. Some marzipan. Unique. Lots of charm. 06 style./ Abundant fruit on the palate. Peach and candied apple. Good acidity too. 16.0. WT051309-07. 07 NIERSTEINER OLBERG RIESLING KABINETT, EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) Oh, this has that wonderful tangerine nature of Rheinfront Hessen rieslings. Soft and rich, with a tingly acid foil. Shows its pedigree./ Wow! Fine fruit quality of 07, showing race and lift to balance Hessen richness. Minerals, extract, reductive winemaking signs. Balanced and complete Olberg Kabinett. Wehrheim’s really got it going these
days. 16.3+. WT051309-08. 06 STONE CELLARS CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Cool, rich, and true merlot cherry-berry aroma. Merlot fruit sweetness too. Nice./ Yes, the sweet cherry character keeps pushing forth. Suggestion of oak? Certainly some vanilla. Complete California merlot. Tastes like a $12-$15 version. 16.0. WT051309-09. 06 STONE CELLARS CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Good blackberry and black currant varietal character. The fruit is nice and sweet and alluring, not cabernet mean./ Good cabernet grip; more tannin than the merlot. Impressive varietal signature and quality. Another Stone Cellars value. Only the over-oaked chardonnay leaves me unenthusiastic. 16.1+. WT051309-10. 08 TERRA ANDINA VALLE CENTRAL CARMENERE - (CHILE) A month ago, this was unexpressive compared to the 07. It’s moved up much closer to the 07 level of appeal now. Fresh fruit and fine, light oak veneer. This has lift rather than the earthiness of some carmeneres./ Absolutely delicious, like the 07 was. Carmenere’s rich cherry-berry fruit with light oak spiciness adding seasoning. Just a touch of carmenere leather;
at this level, it’s an inviting addition. Fine buy. 16.1. WT051309-11. 08 CRIOS DE SUSANA BALBO MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Deep nose, still somewhat reduced. Tar and rawhide. Rather sullen to start, it brightens up with airing. Lots of black fruit, dark chocolate, bitters./ Yes, this shows a nice, fresh acidity. Some tannin. Overall, in balance. There’s something wanting about it compared to previous vintages. Like it’s a little thinner. Vintage deficiencies? 15.5+. WT051309-12. 06 STAGS’ LEAP WINERY NAPA VALLEY PETITE SYRAH - (U.S.) Pet full, and at the same time, elegant. That’s SLV petite syrah!. Dark berries, red raspberry, currants, candied fruits, raisinettes. Flowers as well as fruits. Good wood influences too./ Good wood and good framing. It envelopes the fruit but does not suppress it. Nice 06 fruit softness compared to the stiffer 05. Fine acid and tannin complete the picture.
Another good, ageworthy vintage for this, the measuring rod of petite sirahs. 16.2++. WT051309-13. 06 ELLERSTADTER KIRCHENSTUCK RIESLING HALBTROCKEN, STUDIER ELLERSTADT - (GERMANY) Pfalz power, dryness, mineral etch. Deep. Peach and grains. Real Mittelhaardt riesling./ Yes, size, frame, grip, and full body. On the dry side of halbtrocken. Nothing 06 soft about it. The vintage seems to suit the better Pfalz rieslings. Wow! I want to take this right to the table. 16.7+. WT051309-14. 07 NIERSTEINER PATERBERG GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE, EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) Yow! Full display of gewurz rose and ginger as usual. Lychee, bergamot, cologne, botanicals./ Tremendously vital, animated. Really sweet and gingery. Auslese material?. Great style and texture. Long and alluring. Boy, Wehrheim’s really got this one down! Always good, and this vintage is one of the best. 17.0+. WT051309-15. BOONE’S FARM AMERICAN WATERMELON - (FRUIT) Apple wine with natural watermelon flavor. 7.5% alcohol. Fizzy. Smells like Jolly Rancher watermelon hard candies./ Really sweet–pleasantly so. And the fizz adds refreshment. Big watermelon flavor intensity. Taste of the rind as well as the center. One of the best new Boones releases of recent years. Ready for summertime quaffing. 16.0.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009 WT050609-01. 07 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES BLANC RESERVE DES SEIGNEURS, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 1/3 each marsanne, roussanne, and viognier. More open and evolved than the 08. Very showy. Consistent with past assessments. Well liked by the group. 16.3. WT050609-02. 08 COTES DU RHONE ROSE CUVEE DES CAPUCINES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 100% grenache. Well, here’s a lesson in terroir. Same year, maker, grape. Different wine from the Friande. Larger and more giving, with that lovely Capucines elegance that’s in the red too./ Yes, fuller, deeper, broader, more significant aromatics than the Friande. Very grenache. A lot of oomph. 16.1+. WT050609-03. 07 VAUCLUSE CUVEE FRIANDE, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% grenache, 20% syrah. Dark berries and currants. Tight and inky./ Yes, still closed, packed in, contrite. Needs time to open up. Will prove a fine wine with time. 15.8++. WT050609-04. 07 VAUCLUSE CUVEE DE LA DAME VIEILLE, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% grenache (vines averaging 85 years), 50% syrah. The additional syrah certainly makes for a darker experience. Violets, currants. Very high quality fruit from both varietals. Will be nicer even than the last several vintages./ Fuller, sweeter aromatic set than the Friande. Good acidity. Has a lot going for it. Very fine
fruit quality of 07. 16.0+. WT050609-05. 06 VAUCLUSE CUVEE DE LA DAME VIEILLE, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% grenache (vines averaging 85 years), 50% syrah. More open, and more expressive than it’s been in the past. I like the openness, but I think 07 has even better fruit quality and intensity and will be the better wine at maturity. Over the next 12 months, this will be the wine to drink though. 15.9+. WT050609-06. 06 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE DES CAPUCINES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% grenache, 20% syrah. Much more open than the 07, and wonderfully elegant in the Capucines mode. Really showing well today. 16.3. WT050609-07. PACIFIC RIM AMERICAN CHENIN BLANC - (U.S.) Very honeyed, peachy. Really extreme for chenin blanc. Shades of more aromatic varieties. Entirely enticing. No other chenin like it. 100%?/ Whoa! Full ripe melons flavors. Way aromatic for chenin blanc. Yes, this pushes riesling in its perfume intensity. Good acidity. Just a softening touch of residual sweetness. 16.3. WT050609-08. 08 WILLIAM FEVRE LA MISION PIRQUE-MAIPO ROSE - (CHILE) Good and pretty fruit. Delicate strawberry-raspberry aroma. Seems dry and very refreshing. Very useful and versatile this summer./ Full. Plentiful peels extract flavors of Bordeaux varieties. Sweet cherry in particular. Yes, a wonderful cherry taste. Merlot? Malbec? Good acidity and light tannin. For the table. Better than most Bordeaux roses–heftier,
riper fruit. 16.1. WT050609-09. 05 WILLIAM FEVRE LA MISION GRAND CUVEE MAIPO CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) As when sampled before, large, dry, concentrated, oaky./ Lavender, cassis, blackberry, spices. Nice texture. For blackened beef. Good value at the supplier’s closeout price, which is half off. 15.6. WT050609-10. 06 STEELHEAD QUIVIRA VINEYARD DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Rich and heady. Black cherries galore. Generous./ Some woodiness. Dried fruit. DCV ripeness countered by plenty of acidity. Good value. 15.5+. WT050609-11. 07 PACIFIC RIM WASHINGTON-OREGON GEWURZTRAMINER - (U.S.) Some reduction to start (under screw cap), but it clears. Rose, ginger, and barbershop aromas./ Flavors confirm. A right decent little gewurz that won’t bowl you over with heavy aromatics, so it’s useful with delicate Pac Rim food selections, particularly those involving coconut. 15.7+.
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