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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- May, 2006 |
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Wednesday, May 31, 2006 wt053106-01. 05
DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO, MEZZACORONA - (ITALY)
Firm and discreet, clean and refreshing. Fresh, crisp, racy. New-cut
green apple. With air, hints of flowers, lime, lentils./ Delicate,
bright, poised, racy, and vital. Lithe too. Good acid brace, vigor,
citricity. 15.6. wt053106-02. 04
ALTO ADIGE PINOT GRIGIO, PETER ZEMMER
- (ITALY) Fuller, rounder, more evolved, and quite dense. Alluring
red currant, mineral, and smoked nut notes./ Yes, full and soft.
Red currant and bakery notes. Some Alsace pinot gris images. Not
longer as brisk and racy as its younger rival from Mezzacorona,
but certainly good with food. 15.2. wt053106-03. 05
KAMPTAL LOIS GRUNER VELTLINER, FRED LOIMER
- (AUSTRIA) Zippy aromas of apple, melon, tea, avocado, and sugar-snap
pea pods. Plus subtle floral highlights. Penetrating, vibrant, expressive./
Bright tart-apple, lime, and lentil flavors. Alert, snappy, racy,
tingly, flavorful, mouth-watering. There’s an ingratiating soft
richness about it too. Most food-worthy, and very popular with the
group. 16.2. wt053106-04. 05
VERAMONTE CASABLANCA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (CHILE) Perky, brisk pear, peach, citrus, and gooseberry aromas.
With airing, notes of lemon grass, passion fruit, and white pepper
come out. Very cool and ventilating./ Both crispness and plumpness
about it. Well-water cleanness and mineral ring. A bit riper and
plumper than the incisive 04. 15.7. wt053106-05. 05
JACOB’S CREEK SE AUSTRALIA CHARDONNAY
- (AUSTRALIA) Nice, light, spicy oak veneer, elegantly rendered.
If this was done with chips (as the price suggests), it was a masterful
performance on the part of the winemaker./ Fine oak, melon, apple,
and apple-peel flavors. Very harmonious, racy, savory. Just the
right balance of oak and fruit influences. I can see the favorable
ratings. 15.6. wt053106-06. 05
PENINSULA CELLARS UNWOODED OLD MISSION PENINSULA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Full and well-extracted. Apple and apple peel
aromas. Has the body and breadth of a barrel-aged wine without having
touched oak. Most accomplished already./ Softer and peachier than
the 04, or maybe that’s just because I’m tasting it earlier in its
life. Bright, vibrant, and tangy enough though. You can’t get these
northern Michigan chardonnays overripe. Plenty of peel extracts.
16.0+. wt053106-07. 04
CLOS DU BOIS RESERVE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) After the above, this seems much more advanced.
Because it’s not just a year older but also has spent more time
in cooperage. By comparison, the nose comes on oaky, tropical, and
heady. Ripe stone fruits, oak spices, and butterscotch../ The palate’s
a treat: malo creaminess and oak vanilla, soft, suave, and soothing.
Adequate acidity to prevent cloying. Lots of textural pleasure here.
15.8. wt053106-08. 04
CHABLIS LES DEUX RIVES, OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Cool, stony, flinty, appley, genuine. Sleek,
subtle Chablis pungency. Touches of melon and tangerine. Super village
Chablis./ Fine, bracing acidity of 04. Lots of mineral extract.
Lots of textural play. Expressive Chablis form of chardonnay and
terroir. As it should be. 16.4. wt053106-09. 04
RULLY VAUVRY 1ER CRU, OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fine new French oak, with the Leflaive penchant
for heavy char. Nice oak vanillin too. Lots of Chalonnaise body,
volume, density. Open knit and resinous. More about orange than
lemon. Also gala apple and tumbo./ Huge mouthful of wine. Great
acid, power, extract, mineral savor. Ample, fruit, oak, and terroir.
Challenges the palate to get around it all. Just a super texture!
Firm of spine and very confident of its future. Fine length. 16.7. wt053106-10. 04
RULLY RABOURCE 1ER CRU, OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good oak here too: toast and vanilla. More uplift,
crispness, finesse. Quite confined still. A completely different
animal./ Yes, there’s deftness and levity here, and great finesse
for a Chalonnaise chardonnay. Very discreet and graceful. Fine mineral
base. Real class. Will reward aging. 16.8+. wt053106-11. 05
ALICE WHITE LEXIA SE AUSTRALIA MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA - (AUSTRALIA) Very cooly scented for an alexandria. Very
floral. Strong, penetrating, and lovely perfume of peony./ Pear,
peach, and peony flavors. Creamy, balmy texture. Lithe for alexandria.
Mild but adequate acidity. Come hither. A unique and good take on
this varietal, and a bargain price. 16.0. wt053106-12. 03
REUILLY LES ROUESSES PINOT GRIS ROSE, DOMAINE DES ROUESSES - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sweet, ripe 03 nature with pinot gris
nuttiness and red-fruit characteristics/ Full pinot gris expression
on the palate too. Dry and round, mouthfilling and distinctive.
Taking on a bit of a tawny edge, but there are still vestiges of
pleasure to be found. Wish we had caught this sooner. I look forward
to tasting the 04. 14.5. wt053106-13. 05
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Clearly the quality and intensity of a Villages and an
05. Luscious ripe red fruit outer with firm purple berry core. Total
face of Beaujolais–a prototype./ On the palate, youthful yet, Purple-fruited.
compact, and still a bit astringent. No problem. Jadot’s red wines
are all like this in youth and need some time to swell up and spread
out. In this case, just a few months will do. 15.7+. wt053106-14. 03
CUVELIER GULLIVER, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Lean, smoky black cherry, iron, and minerals. Compact,
with some density and highlights of pencil box, licorice, and liver.
With further airing, a boat-load of fruit shoots up the nostrils./
Solid, earthy, smoky, heavy, tannic. Rustic but generous press wine
here. 15.2. wt053106-15. 02
OBERON NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Yes! Here’s Mondavi and Napa Valley elegance as in the
01, with the plump fruit augmentation of 02. 02 big, ripe black
fruit. Blackberry, black currant, spices, and chocolate. Tea and
tobacco highlights./ Again, that round and succulent fruit characteristic
of so many 02 cabernets. Very flavorful. Tight-grained oak application
and Napa Valley fruit refinement, nobility. Well balanced. A worthy
successor to the fine 01, in its own vintage style. Commendable,
and a good value in class Napa cab. 16.6. wt053106-16. 03
GARD COUNOISE VIGNOBLE DE LA RAMIERE, DOMAINE MONPERTUIS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Special. 03 ripeness and that
unique counoise aroma of blueberry–both pulp and peel. Other highlights
include licorice, cola, five-spice, and chamomile. Sweet yet cool.
Generous and pleasing./ Yes, there’s the blueberry again, plus black
pepper and garrigue extras. Great acidity for the vintage. That’s
counoise. Spicy and solid. Neat stuff. 16.4. wt053106-17. 03
RIBERA DEL DUERO JOVEN, TORRES DE ANGUIX
- (SPAIN) All tempranillo. Ripe but very fresh and juicy for a warm
vintage. Plum, licorice, and warm spices. Good varietal expression
with nice, light oak seasoning. The oak is a pleasant extra for
a Joven, as well as for the price./ Bright and fresh indeed. Very
good acidity for the vintage. Very polite and well composed. Will
improve. 15.9+.
Wednesday, May 24, 2006 wt052406-01. 03
COTES DE GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DE RIEUX -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe, sweet, pineapple fruit of 03, round
and generous. Great acid verve for the vintage./ Again, the acidity
really rings nice and tingly. Honey, ripe apple, and melon flavors.
Very bright still. A bargain. 15.8. wt052406-02. 04
BURGENLAND GRUNER VELTLINER, HOPLER -
(AUSTRIA) Good and bright and crisp and malic 04. Apple, citrus,
and lentil. Everything flows forth freely./ Soft and harmonious.
Sleek and charming. Rich and accommodating on the approach, nicely
cleansing streak of acidity at the end. 16.0. wt052406-03. 05
KWV WESTERN CAPE STEEN - (SOUTH AFRICA)
Crisp, with light melon tones. Understated but bright./ Subtle flavors
of melon, apple, and grass. Fruit tenderness and acidity in balance.
Attractive. 15.2. wt052406-04. 04
WINNINGER ROTTGEN RIESLING SPATLESE, RICHARD RICHTER - (GERMANY) Special. Slate-borne aroma of walnut husk.
Cedar airs too. After standing in the glass, peach, honey, and red
currants come forth. Sweet and penetrating. Good frame and extract
of 04./ Walnut husk on palate too. Sweet peach-apricot fruit coats
the acidity yet. Fine depth. Lovely and delicious. 16.3+. wt052406-05. 04
CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
True and fresh. Soft red fruits, oak, and milk chocolate. Good cool-climate
fruit acidity./ Again, good acidity and true fruit character and
flavor. Total pinot generosity, expression, sweet allure. 15.8. wt052406-06. 04
PINOT EVIL RESERVE SANT BARBARA PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Oh, this has sweet and sexy pinot fruit and nice, spicy
oak lacings./ Balanced, with good south Central Coast acidity and
style. Nice and racy. Good value. Delivers. 15.9. wt052406-7. 04
AU BON CLIMAT SANTA BARBARA PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Full compote of dark fruit, oak, herbs, and sexy, spicy
perfumes. Luscious, lovely pinot fruit within a strong framework./
Smooth, sweet, attractive fruit and spice flavor set. Good structure
and acidity provides a Euro sense of styling. 16.0. wt052406-8. 04
J. LOHR CYPRESS CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.)
04 black fruit attractions, especially blackberry. And some spicy
oak./ Sweet, juicy, herbal, and spicy. Soft and mild. Pleasant and
correct, if modest. 14.2. wt052406-9. 04
J. LOHR CYPRESS CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) 04 darkness again, and the blacker qualities of cabernet
versus merlot. Spicy fruit and oak./ Sweet, with berry-currant cabernet
character. A good everyday cabernet, ready now. 14.6. wt052406-10. 04
MONTERRA MONTEREY CABERNET SAUVIGNON -
(U.S.) Apple-raspberry aroma like a zinfandel. Tight Monterra-Monterey
styling. Plenty of structural essence. Nicely polished./ Raspberry
changing to blackberry on the palate, so it says something about
cabernet after all. So does the structure. This will broaden, improve.
15.0+. wt052406-11. 03
J. LOHR SEVEN OAKS PASO ROBLES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Fat, oaky, ripe, chocolatey Paso Robles cabernet.
Good spine too./ Classy palate showing creamy oak texture, good
depth, plenty of black fruit, touch of tobacco, soft tannins. A
charmer. 15.5. wt052406-12. 04
LA PLAYA BLOCK SELECTION COLCHAGUA VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Very intense fruit. Deep blackberry and fine
oak seasoning. Variegated, intense, rich. No carmenere herb and
olive./ Compact and claret-like, with ripeness and acidity in balance
and good form to it all. Nice, with room to grow. 16.0+. wt052406-13. 03
GREG NORMAN LAKE COUNTY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.)
Sweet and ripe, but also a bit green, as if bunches of both ripe
and green grapes were included../ Black raspberry, red currant,
and bitter chocolate flavors. Soft and mild, rather plain. I’m a
fan of Greg Norman reds, but this one disappoints me. 14.4. wt052406-14. 03
ZIG ZAG MENDOCINO ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Bit
raw, hot, lean, woody. Candied red fruit, nut, earth, animal. Some
H2S./ Yes, hot and woody; raw, rustic, and chewy. Smoke and tobacco
flavors. Full body and full acidity. An aggressive wine that needs
very hearty fare. 14.5. wt052406-15. 03
MARIETTA SONOMA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Big
bodied and sturdy. Ripe black fruits. Ostentatious, no holds barred
zinfandel./ Ripe and solid. Port-like suggestions. Smooth textured
and generous. 15.5. wt052406-16. 04
VINSOBRES COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES LES CORUNUDS, PERRIN - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Black fruits, earth, leather,
sandalwood. Taut, youthful, expressive. Some rusticity but also
some panache./ Sleek, structured, aristocratic. Ashy elements. Needs
time. 15.8+ wt052406-17. 04
TIR NA N’OG OLD VINES MCLAREN VALE GRENACHE
- (AUSTRALIA) Big blast of spicy, peppery black fruits and nutty
oak elements. Ripe and jammy grenache with black 04 depths./ Big
chocolate, mint, and fruit jam flavors with garrigue and even ginger
overtones. Lively acidity. Fine depth. Plenty to show, plenty more
in reserve. 16.5+.
Wednesday, May 17, 2006 wt051706-01. 05
HONIG NAPA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.)
Traditional Honig sauvignon style. Grass, herbs, grapefruit, minerals,
and some peach. Quite full, rich, and heady. Touch of oak?/ Dry,
elegant, and rich. More stone fruits on palate. Nice acidity. Food-worthy.
15.8. wt051706-02. 05
JACOB’S CREEK SE AUSTRALIA RIESLING -
(AUSTRALIA) Very pretty, fresh, singular lime and blossom aroma.
Delicate, bright, charming, generous. No petrol whatsoever. This
is a lovely example of Aussie riesling at its freshest./ Tasty,
tangy, snappy, pure, with lime zest vigor. Racy, crisp, and bracingly
dry. Enjoy it before the summer’s out. 15.8. wt051706-03. 04
PINOT BLANC, A. SCHERER - (FRANCE ALSACE)
Light, clean, fresh, green and yellow citrus fruit of pure pinot
blanc without the auxerrois. Lovely 04 malic brightness too. Nice,
tender pinot blanc center./ Lightly aromatic, plump and nutty on
the palate as if there’s some auxerrois here after all. Lemon and
tropical fruit creme. Good 04 acid ring. Delicious. 16.1. wt051706-04. 04
GEWURZTRAMINER, A. SCHERER - (FRANCE ALSACE)
Very bright, cool, pure expression of gewurztraminer. Rose, glycerine,
cold cream, orange, lychee./ Very pure and precise. Delicious grip
of 04 acidity–exceptionally good acidity for the varietal. And the
nice light dash of gewurz astringency too. Dry, cooling, balsamic
airs at the finale. Yes, delicious. 16.8. wt051706-05. 05
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER DR. L RIESLING, DR. LOOSEN
- (GERMANY) Very floral, fresh, vital, primary. Past the fermentation-odor
stage but still very talc-y in youth. Bright, zesty, plump, exotic,
elegant, joyful. Citrus, melon, and stone fruits. Pure and near
perfect./ Pure and lovely, with a nice light grip, plenty of freshness,
and tender sweetness. The best yet in the series. Bravo, 05! 16.3. wt051706-06. 05
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER RIESLING, ST. URBANS-HOF
- (GERMANY) Much plumper, sweeter, fuller. Some boden tones suggest
Ockfen and Graach, two strongholds of this estate. Good ring and
freshness despite the heavier nature of this wine./ Yes, fuller,
sweeter. Peach and apricot flavors. Great acidity, balance, grace,
and class. Good length. Its body makes it very food-worthy. 16.5. wt051706-07. 02
PANTHER CREEK SHEA VINEYARD WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Big, rich, full, ample, broad, and deeply varietal,
with good oak framing too. Ripe black cherry, dark chocolate, wood
spices./ As rich and complete as the nose promised. One of the biggest
Oregon pinots I’ve ever tasted. Alcohol, glycerol, generous varietal
fruit, fine oak–all in harmony. What a huge thrill to find an Oregon
pinot so amply endowed! 17.3. wt051706-08. 04
HAUTERIVE MERLOT, DOMAINE LA BASTIDE -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bright, fresh, and plump, with the dark herbs
and roots qualities of 04./ Sweet and full and also merlot herbal.
04 style. Good, but I preferred the ripeness of 03 and raciness
of 01. Maybe this will improve with age. 14.8+? wt051706-09. 04
HAUTERIVE SYRAH, DOMAINE LA BASTIDE -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full and strong. Some raw fruit and stalkiness.
Not strongly varietal. Sweetens some with airing./ Yes, there’s
a cherry-berry quality now–perhaps a warm-climate syrah expression.
Fine glycerol. But rather anonymous, vinous. Will time improve it?
The 03 had much more syrah expression and was more polished. 15.0+? wt051706-10. 04
L DE LYETH SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON -
(U.S.) Vigorous oak and fruit. 04 fruit darkness and good acidity./
Rich palate. The oak is not as fully integrated yet as the 03 (which
was first tasted at a more advanced stage). Still a little rough
and aggressive. Needs time to settle in. 15.7+. wt051706-11. 04
AVALON NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Reductive at first. With airing, snappy, spicy oak and
dark fruit. Sleek and charming. Aromas of red and black fruits,
chocolate, nuts, licorice./ Nice, rich texture, with Napa Valley
class. This will keep getting better and better. 16.1+. wt051706-12. 04
PEIRANO ESTATE LODI CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) This is Lodi cabernet: warm but not Central Valley warm.
Sweet, spicy, alluring red fruits and touch of cigar box./ Again,
sweet and spicy. Friendly, and a good value. Good acidity and tannin.
Wine of place. Class packaging. 15.6.
Wednesday, May 10, 2006 wt051006-01. 04
VAUCLUSE BLANC CUVEE D’OR, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Half each roussanne and chardonnay.
Soft, ripe, floral aspects, with stony, mineral base./ Pretty stone-fruit
flavors. Good acid, nice frame. 14.0. wt051006-02. 05
BOURGOGNE BLANC LES FEMELOTTES VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE HUBERT CHAVY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Cool, sleek, and refined, with a
light creaminess. Lovely finesse, great citrus fruit, touches of
apple and pear and minerals./ Bright, refined, brisk acidity, squeaky
clean. Full of subtleties, including light oak spiciness. Lots of
minerality, and finesse. Fine dinner wine. And it’s still a babe!
Says great things for the 05 white burgundy vintage. 16.2+. wt051006-03. 03
OC SYRAH ROSE, RESERVE ST. MARTIN - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Lovely, soft red fruits. Rose petal, cranberry. Becoming
nutty-tawny with age but still useful./ Retains a certain charm
to its red-fruit demeanor. Good acidity for the vintage. But losing
its freshness. 12.5. wt051006-04. 05
COTES CATALONES ROSE NINET DE PENA, CHATEAU DE PENA - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very pretty. Floral and fruity.
Big, bright, exciting strawberry and cotton candy aromas./ Sweet
and flavorful and alluring. Plenty of emphasis and lush fruit. Crisp,
crunchy, nervy fruit acidity too. Fine focus, fine texture. Great
buy. Better than the 04. 16.0. wt051006-05. 05
COTEAUX DE PEYRIAC ROSE CUVEE DES OLIVIERS, DOMAINE MASSAMIER LA
MIGNARDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Cinsault,
syrah, grenache - Dry and austere on entry. Delicate cherry scent
of cinsault. And elegant fresh-strawberry aroma of grenache. Discreet
and lovely./ Surprisingly soft and sweet fruit on the palate. Luscious,
youthful fruit and adequate acidity. Lovely style and accuracy.
Delicious. And will grow more generous through the summer. 16.0+. wt051006-06. 05
COSTIERES DE NIMES ROSE CUVEE LES GALETS, CHATEAU MOURGUES DU GRES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very full bodied and full of
peel extracts and aromatics. Runs deep and broad and authoritative
like a Tavel./ Soft and full, with good peel astringency for foil.
Lots of panache. Youthful plumpness, soft finish. More to gain.
Decidedly dinner-worthy by summer. 16.4+. wt051006-07. 05
LINDEMANS BIN 99 SE AUSTRALIA PINOT NOIR
- (AUSTRALIA) Primary, bright, true to varietal. Cherry, tea, anise.
Very pretty./ Sweet and sassy, vigorous and tangy, bouncy and forward.
Chocolate-cherry flavors. 15.1. wt051006-08. 04
CHATEAU CHANTAL OLD MISSION PENINSULA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) True, vigorous, fresh, cool, northern pinot.
Pure and fine cherry, licorice, smoked meat, and black tea aromas./
Racy, lithe. Good acidity. Flavorful. Medium bodied. Balanced. Good
now; good with fish. One of the best pinots Chantal has made. 15.6. wt051006-09. 05
LINDEMANS BIN 40 SE AUSTRALIA MERLOT -
(AUSTRALIA) Dilly American oak. Hint of olive. Sweet, juicy youthful
fruit./ Good acidity. Light wood burnish. Warm climate merlot sweetness–lush,
expressive, big--without merlot aromatic definition. A typical Aussie
merlot. 14.5. wt051006-10. 05
LINDEMANS BIN 45 SE AUSTRALIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (AUSTRALIA) Bright and youthful with some American
oak extract and dill. Good cabernet grip and bright cabernet black
fruits./ Lively cabernet black currant and berry, with oak and grip.
Hint of menthol. Good acidity. Sweet and easy now, but will improve
for 3-6 months. 15.0+. wt051006-11. 02
VILLA MT. EDEN GRAND RESERVE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) All the credentials of Grand Reserve: lots of
full, sweet, ripe, expressive fruit, lots of power, and lots of
open-textured American oak. Big, thick, dense, smoky. Everything
in ‘reserve’ spades./ Again, full, ripe, open knit, generous, sweet.
Powerful and oaky. Chewy tannins. Welcomes sweet and spicy BBQ.
15.5. wt051006-12. 03
BODEGA LURTON RESERVA MENDOZA MALBEC -
(ARGENTINA) Good reserva oak and inky-black malbec fruit. Blueberry
and blackberry aromas, sleek and lovely, understated and elegant.
Solid build./ Rich, dark, solid fruit with good acidity and plenty
of flavor, including blackberry, bitters, and spices. Fine tannin.
Well constructed. 15.9+. wt051006-13. 05
LINDEMANS BIN 50 SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ -
(AUSTRALIA) Aromas of blackberry, menthol., herbs. Ripe, sweet,
and Riverlands-like. At least it’s generous./ Good grip. But essentially
a simple hot-climate red wine. Surprisingly, my least favorite among
the 05 Lindemans Bin reds. 14.0. wt051006-14. 04
VINUM CELLARS PETS WILSON VINEYARD CLARKSBURG PETITE SIRAH - (U.S.) Sweet, intense, and lovely loganberry aroma
that’s present only in the superior pets. Very pure petite sirah,
as purple as it comes./ Again, sweet and essential. Fine texture
and tannin. Wow! 16.7. wt051006-15. 04
COTES DU RHONE BUZZ, CAVE DE CAIRANNE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 55% grenache, 45% syrah - Ripe, powerful,
aggressive, rough, licorice-laced young Cairanne. Big black fruits,
raisin, fig, chocolate./ Rich, ripe, and powerful for 04, with 04
blackness, grip, and tannin. A typical CdR production of the Cave
de Cairanne. Time will tone down its meanness. 15.7+. wt051006-16. 04
CROZES HERMITAGE, DOMAINE DES ENTREFAUX
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bright 04 crispness. Good syrah definition:
black raspberry sweetness, peppercorn nip, smoked meat, and flowers./
Flavor set confirms aromas and adds blueberry, olive, and bacon.
Rich and racy. Very sleek. Plump for 04, but has plenty of edge
too. Balanced and savory. Lovely value. 16.5+. wt051006-17. 03
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE CUVEE JUMILLE, DOMAINE ST. PAUL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe, ruddy, and old time, with
some whole-bunch stalk extract and seasoned oak savor. Grip and
power. Deep-seated strawberry, black and red raspberry, pencil box,
rosemary, and woody-herb aromas./ Rich and rich in glycerol and
alcohol. 03 ripeness and suavity. Rustic, old time, meaty, good.
Lots of lip-smacking berry puree flavors at the finale. 17.2+.
Wednesday, May 3, 2006 wt050306-01. 04
COSTIERES DE NIMES BLANC, CHATEAU VIRGILE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full and broad southern Rhone blanc approach.
Vinous, not fruity. Hints of lime and stone./ Full, vinous. Good
body and strength and texture. Lively acidity. Long green-fruit
finish. A very appealing meal-time white. 15.9. wt050306-02. 04
RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO, VALMINOR - (SPAIN)
Full, scented. Showing some age but in an appealing way: nuts and
straw. Sleek and juicy, plump and round. Pear, peach, apple./ Rich
in citrus and tropical fruit flavors, bright and tangy, nicely focused.
Very fresh and fruity on the palate–more-so than on the nose. Full-bodied.
Good ripe acid support. A great mouthful. 16.2. wt050306-03. 04
BOURGOGNE BLANC TERROIRS DE COTE D’OR, VERGET
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Discreet citrus and stone fruits, terroir, and
light-handed oak application. 04 cool and compact./ Again, very
discreet in all aspects. Bright, dry, handsome, subtle, stylish.
Good balance. Tender plushness to the fruit–nicely rendered in this
vintage. Flavors build over time. Certainly Cote d’Or style and
quality. Many meal-time applications. Just right for appellation
and price. Will not tire. Great value. 16.6+. wt050306-04. 05
COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE, LA VIEILLE FERME
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% cinsault, 40% grenache, 10% syrah -
Subtle scent. Good vigor, breadth, strength./ Fruit and flower aromatics
coming on with airing. Now a bright, vivid expression of strawberry
and cracked pepper. Plump, ripe, spicy, lively. Good form and balance.
Quaffable. More length and energy to come. 15.9+. wt050306-05. 05
MINERVOIS ROSE, CHATEAU DU DONJON - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Crisp, dry, floral, fruity, petite, subtle./ Supple,
creamy, tender, sleek palate. Plump fruit feels and flavors. Accomplished–beyond
the fermentation-odor stage. Still a little dry and contrite on
the finish. Will sweeten up with a few more weeks’ aging. 16.0+. wt050306-06. 05
PIC SAINT LOUP ROSE, CHATEAU DE LANCYRE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% syrah, 40% grenache, 10% cinsault -
Sweet strawberry-vanilla mousse aroma. Watermelon, dried fruits,
and flowers too. Dramatic, luscious whole-berry set of perfumes.
Just as lovely as it could be./ Pretty and precise raspberry and
strawberry flavors with spicy accents. Smooth and balanced. Fine
structure, depth, class. Finishes a bit contrite; a few weeks’ aging
with take care of that. Huge aromatic appeal. 16.6+. wt050306-07. 05
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE ROSE, COMMANDERIE DE LA BARGEMONE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Exceptionally intense cherry
and strawberry aromas. Just gorgeous./ Juicy, candied berries. Sage
and rosemary nuances. Very, very flavorful. Good acid, strength,
length, balance. Tavel-like class. One of the best ever from ths
estate. 16.3. wt050306-08. 04
CARINENA GARNACHA, ABRAZO - (SPAIN) Lovely,
sweet, round, generous warm-climate grenache./ Oh! Fabulous palate!
Racy, juicy, powerful. Great acidity and vitality. Fills and stimulates.
Long aftertaste. Bargain! 15.7. wt050306-09. 03
TOSCANA SANGIOVESE, CAPARZO - (ITALY)
Sweet, soft, and jammy 03 take on Tuscan sangiovese–for sure. Total
allure. Sweet, dried cherry. Aroma builds with airing, running deep
and textured. Handsome, classy./ Full flavor and texture. Balanced
too. Delicious harmony of fruit sweetness and acidity and melted
tannins. High-toned, concentrated, important. This delivers. 16.4. wt050306-10. 04
CHIANTI, QUERCETO - (ITALY) Wow! Rich,
exotic, complex aroma of fruits, flowers, fine herbs, vanilla, and
warm spices./ All repeat on the palate. Rich textured. Good sweetness
for 04. Good depth. Fine tannins. Long aftertaste. A steal! 16.0. wt050306-11. 03
RIOJA FAUSTINO VII, BODEGAS FAUSTINO -
(SPAIN) Has the dill-toned American oak, Old World savor, and handsome
fresh and dried black fruits. Classy./ Ripe and roasted 03 qualities.
Wood and fruit tannins make it a little stiff yet. 14.7+. wt050306-12. 02
RIOJA CRIANZA, MARQUES DE CACERES - (SPAIN)
Nice roundness of fruit style of this bodega and soft American oak
support./ On the palate, more texture, depth, and variegation than
the nose would have you believe. A good mouthful, showing no 02
weaknesses. Fine acidity. A great palate, really. 15.5+. wt050306-13. 03
GRIZZLY FLAT BIG BOLD RED CENTRAL COAST SHIRAZ
- (U.S.) Lots of warmth, smoke, and power. Nice jellied black fruits
and touch of cedar./ Better still on palate. Hefty, chewy, dense,
juicy cherry fruit, with real fruit flavor (not jelly, jam, candy).
And good Central Coast fruit acidity. Sweet and racy berry flavors
lift it further. 14.8 wt050306-14. 04
NIERSTEINER ORBEL RIESLING SPATLESE, EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) Tingle of citrus and mineral. Tangerine and
peach. Reductive winemaking. Super value. Wehrheim’s in the front
ranks now, yet the prices remain low./ Juicy, vanilla-coated tangerine
flavor, sort of like a tangerine creamsicle. 04 sleekness, structure,
minerality, class. Adequate acidity and medium finish–both of which
will fill out with aging and the wine’s ‘baby fat’ melts away. 16.4+. wt050306-15. 03
BERNKASTELER KURFURSTLAY RIESLING AUSLESE, J&H SELBACH - (GERMANY) Very tingly, lemony nose for vintage. Deep
and peachy sensations follow./ Racy acidity. Walnut husk aspect
of slate-born rieslings. Has the sweetness and concentration to
validate auslese. Very nice form and poise. Good value. 16.1+. wt050306-16. BARBEITO
CRISTOVAO COLOMBO 10 YEAR OLD BOAL MADEIRA
- (FORTIFIED) Powerful and warming. Treacle, fig, espresso./ The
palate soars! Rich and sweet, with good peels extracts. Impressive
palate. Loaded and lengthy, with a fine bouquet of age showing.
Good value. 17.2.
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