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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- May, 2005 |
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Wednesday, May 25, 2005 wt052505-01. 02
RUEDA CUVEE RICHARD SANZ, CUEVAS DE CASTILLA
- (SPAIN) Not as fresh and vigorous as the fine cadre of ‘03s we
have at present. Dense, restrained, clean./ Firm. Ripe melon and
green apple flavors. Nice mineral underpinning. On the austere side.
14.8. wt052505-02. 03
WACHAU TERRASSEN GRUNER VELTLINER FEDERSPIEL, DOMAINE WACHAU - (AUSTRIA) Lush gru-ve fruits, with more in reserve.
Polished, lanolined. Some senses of roasted and smoked nuts./ Tender,
mild, pleasant. Good acidity and dryness. Fairly full and rich.
Good balance. Made for the table, not for show. 15.6. wt052505-03. 03
CHABLIS LES PARGUES PREMIER CUVEE NON-FILTRE, DOMAINE SERVIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Clean, crisp, vital, flinty. Very
stony-flinty, very terroir-oriented. Why Chablis has no imitators./
‘03 softness and plumpness cut through by nice zingy acidity and
mineral saturation. Plenty of terroir again. A good one. 17.0. wt052505-04. 04
CASTILLA Y LEON TEMPRANILLO ROSE, PENASCAL
- (SPAIN) Very young and fresh and frisky. Cherry and strawberry
Kool Aid. Briar and bramble. What it ought to be./ Spry, vigorous.
Has both sweetness and acidity...in balance. Oodles of flavor. Very
pretty rose. Good clean fun. 15.6. wt052505-05. 03
CHATEAU NORBERT, NON-FILTRE, COTES DE BOURG
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Fresh, full, fragrant, fruity. Deep black fruits,
especially black cherry. Plump, ripe, forward merlot. Sweet 03 fruit
nature. But there’s claret coolness, bounce, and vitality too./
Good acidity. Lively, keen, bright. Claret sense of proportion in
a hot vintage. Shows what can be done at this level in 03. Commendable.
15.6+. wt052505-06. 03
ALICANTE, VINA ALCANTA - (SPAIN) Old-time,
scorched and stewed Alicante. Prune, date, , cherry, Dr. Pepper.
Hot stuff./ Sweet and sassy. Easy appeal for fans of ultra-ripe
fruit. 13.5. wt052505-07. 03
ALICANTE TEMPRANILLO, VINA ALONE - (SPAIN)
This is much more sophisticated. Drier and fresher. ‘Woody’ impression,
peel derivatives, plenty of varietal flair. Deep black fruit./ The
same fresh black fruits on the palate. Nice, juicy harmony of sweetness
and acidity. Good value. 15.5. wt052505-08. 03
ALICANTE MONASTRELL, VINA ALONE - (SPAIN)
Deep and ripe and rich. Dark and hardy and strong./ Rich and ripe
on the palate. Younger, rougher than the above. Needs more time.
15.0+. wt052505-09. 03
RIBERA DEL DUERO ROBLE, VINA MAYOR - (SPAIN)
Plump and youthful. Pungent American oak, offering notes of milk
chocolate and coconut (Almond Joy?). The sweet fruit of 03 is evident
beneath./ Yes, the usual Mayor woodiness here; still, it cannot
suppress all the fruit exuberance of this ripe vintage. Good, vigorous
acidity. One hopes that more of the oak will be absorbed in time.
I suspect it will. Tasters who enjoy oak more than I liked it right
now though. 15.7+. wt052505-10. 03
BIERZO MENCIA, DOMINIO DE TARES - (SPAIN)
Dense, with some old leather rancio and smoky warmth. Cool, dark,
compact fruits beneath. And glints of American oak./ The oak, the
black fruits, and the 03 Spanish warmth all echo on the palate.
A well-tuned chorus of vintage, fruit, and barrel contributions.
Time will bring out more fruit personality and diminish the oak
tannins to make for even greater harmony. 14.8++. wt052505-11. 04
COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet berry and garrigue. Fresh. Some 00-style
ripeness, some 01-style coolness./ Juicy. Good Gard acidity and
coolness. Young. Well crafted. Yes, I’d say the 04 style is a combo
of 00 and 01. Ripe, but certainly less exaggerated than 03. Plenty
of buying opportunities will avail from this vintage. 15.8+. wt052505-12. 03
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES VIGNOBLE DE LA VIALLE, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Seems there’s some oak here.
Am I right? Dark, rich fruit. Solid, with good depth. Aromas of
kirsch and aromatic spices. Certainly has Villages intensity./ Again,
a sense of oak. Good 03 ripeness. Plenty of fruit and terroir flavors.
Fine power and density. A potent Villages. 16.2+. wt052505-13. 01
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE MONT REDON
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Lots of cracked peppercorn and garrigue.
Broad, powerful, well-delineated Mont Redon classic. Deep dark core
of sweet black fruit. This will age famously, like the wines of
the Fifties and Sixties./ Sweet, full, and juicy 01 elegance. Rich,
ripe, exotic, well-tuned. Perfect pitch. Lots of garrigue and power.
A full-fledged Chateauneuf presentation. Total Mont Redon. 17.5+.
Wednesday, May 11, 2005 wt051105-01. 04
SANTA RITA RESERVA CASABLANCA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Very lovely, special aromatic set of flowers,
pink grapefruit, and cedar. Gooseberry, spring grass, tropics./
‘Sweet as a nut’. Actually, sweet-tart. Very racy, tangy. Singular.
Very popular with the group. 16.0. wt051105-02. 04
FAIRVIEW COASTAL SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE)
Fuller, stronger, duller. Some citrus fruit./ Thick, plodding. Not
refreshing, but has its mealtime settings, I’m sure. Just not my
style of sauvignon blanc. 14.0. wt051105-03. 04
CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO CASABLANCA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Brilliant. Rings as clear and cool and pure
as spring water. Crisp gooseberry and mineral. High-pitched resonance./
Refined, crisp, elegant, racy. Extreme sauvignon. Worth the price.
Well appreciated by the group. 16.8. wt051105-04. 03
CHABLIS LES PARGUES 1ER CUVEE, DOMAINE SERVIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Corked? Nothing but earth./ Earthy again. But
not bitter. Corked? It better hope so. Will try another bottle.
No rating. wt051105-05. 98
RIESLING STEINERT GRAND CRU, DOMAINE RIEFLE
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Rich, powerful, noble. Statuesque. Grand Cru all
the way. Bouquet of ear, apple, lemon, honey, and mint./ Great acidity,
vigor, size, brightness, richness. Cool balance. Full 98 and Grand
Cru extract. Bouquet forming but not suppressing the sense of freshness
and vitality. A beauty. Enjoy or age further. 16.8. wt051105-06. 98
PINOT GRIS COTE ROUFFACH, DOMAINE RIEFLE
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Nut and mushroom. Thick./ Pinot gris flavors of
nut and melon. And an unusually pronounced and undeniable mushroom
flavor that is unusual in a white wine. But, then, pinot gris is
not a white wine, is it? It’s a grey wine. Ripe and racy and thick.
The mushroom is not unpleasant, nor is it a sign of decay, but it
is certainly for special tastes. 15.2. wt051105-07. 04
COTES DU RHONE ROSE, DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich and fresh and vital. Bramble, spices,
and mourvedre humus. Vigorous fruit aroma of a young Rhone rose.
Strawberry, red raspberry, and cherry are present./ Racy, lively.
Fine depth and authority. Dry, and a bit austere still, and a bit
astringent. Food would help, but it’s best to give this until mid
summer to smoothen, fill out, and settle in. 15.8+. wt051105-08. 04
SANTA RITA 120 RAPEL VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE)
Fresh, thick, fruity, black, deep, dense, spicy. One loaded young
merlot. I’m frankly surprised. I would have expected less fulfillment
from this vintage at this stage. Maybe there’s some carmenere involved./
Rich, yet cool and crisp and racy. Some peel astringency. Lots of
fruit and light oak spiciness. Commendable. ‘Has the skills to pay
the bills,’ says Jorge. 15.6+. wt051105-09. 04
WILLIAM FEVRE LA MISION RESERVA MAIPO VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Oak, fruit, black olive, coconut, meat fat.
Evolved for its age, probably thanks to a longer stay in barrel
than the above. Good power./ Full, strong, generous, fleshy, ripe,
rich-textured. Big black fruits to match the oak. A lot of wine
for the money and for its age. 15.7+. wt051105-10. 04
WILLIAM FEVRE LA MISION MAIPO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Oak and firm, stalwart young cabernet styling.
Bright black currant fruit and black earth./ Very fruity, fresh.
Sleek and racy, with cabernet’s ample but fine tannins. Good future.
15.6+. wt051105-11. 04
WILLIAM FEVRE LA MISION RESERVA MAIPO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Quite a bit like the merlot reserva thanks
to a similar aging pattern, I’d venture. Oak, fruit, black olive,
and meat fat. More cabernet blackness and grip. A little less oak
and a little clearer varietal statement than the merlot reserva./
Very rich and thick. More closed than the merlot, with more cabernet
grip and tannin. Time in barrel assuages the tannin’s impact though.
15.7+. wt051105-12. 03
PASQUAL TOSO ESTATE MAIPU MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Very fruity and full of racy primary and secondary aromas. Young
and polished. Nuts, flowers, perfume. Buxom style, and has verve
and elegance./ Demonstrative. Seems a whole-bunch fermentation statement.
Ripe raspberry, floral, and spicy flavors. Very lively and forward
on entry, more austere and tannic on the finish. Big wine overall.
15.7. wt051105-13. 03
FAIRVIEW COASTAL PINOTAGE - (SOUTH AFRICA)
Oh, boy! No animal! I mean, there’s some meat fat, but no brett
or dekk. Good warm-climate red fruit with smoke and chocolate highlights.
Fleshy, sexy, unabashed./ Balanced, fruity, vigorous. Good acidity,
texture, race. Full fruit flavor, though not strongly varietal (few
pinotages are). Nice red wine. 15.8. wt051105-14. 03
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES LES CHAMPAUVINS, DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10%
mourvedre - Whoa! Big blast of ripe strawberry grenache and additional,
blacker fruit support of syrah and mourvedre. A real gusher; very
sensual. Villages fullness for sure; reaching for Gigondas even./
Full, strong, dry, well balanced. Fine acidity and tannin. Nice
framing. A wine of quality, authority, and great appeal. 16.8+. wt051105-15. 97
GROSSKARLBACHER OSTERBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, R. LINGENFELDER - (GERMANY) Very bright Riesling Clone 90 pineapple and
lemon fruit. Also orange, flowers, white pepper, and minerals. Some
edelfirne development, but still lots of youthful vigor. Tremendous
nose, glorious, really./ Full flavor, tang, vibrancy, bouquet development,
balance. No ‘97 softness. Thorough Pfalz riesling. Fine depth and
lots of finesse. 16.6.
Wednesday, May 4, 2005 wt050405-01. 02
TALTARNI VICTORIA-TASMANIA SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (AUSTRALIA) Fresh, lively gooseberry nose, more Euro than Aussie.
Ripe, but with Loire-ish pungency. Textbook sauvignon./ Nice, zippy
pear, lemon, and lime flavor with smoky-leesy overtones. Spicy and
delicious. Has the goods. 16.3. wt050405-02. 02
MONTINORE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Shy to start, but spiced cherry coming on with air. And
tea. Bulking up as it breathes./ Good pinot cherry flavor. Good
acidity (of course). Tight and nervy, well structured. Seriously
good value. No frills and fancy stuff, just a satisfying mealtime
pinot. 15.5. wt050405-03. 03
RAMSPECK NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Sweeter, warmer California style of pinot. Sweet cherry, smoke,
anise, brooding black fruits. More oak too./ Flavorful, ripe, generous.
Fine tannin. Good power, fine depth. Confident. Plenty to offer.
15.7. wt050405-04. 02
FIXIN, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Jadot and Fixin solidity. Cote de Nuits darkness. Plum tea, and
Gevrey-like musculature. Great material here./ Good, vigorous fruit
and 02 fruit acidity. Fine, chewy tannin. Real substance. A hallmark
Fixin. Good future. Well liked by the group. 16.0+. wt050405-05. 04
ALAMOS MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Solid,
young, deep, dark, reduced. Well poised. Light, well-integrated
oak. With air comes malbec’s black cherry ebullience and a chocolate
note./ Reduced, purple, thick, ripe black cherry and oak spice flavors.
Just a babe. See you again in the fall. 15.5+. wt050405-06. 03
MONTES RESERVE OAK AGED COLCHAGUA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Deep purple blackberry cabernet fruit. Class
oak. Generous./ Rich, thick, and full. Delivers plenty of both fruit
and oak, in style and harmony. Chewy texture. Yes, full of fruit.
Elegant floral overtones too. Ripe, generous, handsome, exciting.
16.3+. wt050405-07. 03
HEALDSBURG CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Well, now, this is wonderful! Better than the 02. Deep
and purple cabernet cassis character, cool and coastal./ Yes, cool,
lots of varietal character, dense, and delicious fruit, delicious
balance, fine tannins. Wow! A value! 15.6. wt050405-08. 03
COTES DU RHONE, E. GUIGAL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Big, rich 03 character. Sleek, fine-textured, and sophisticated
Guigal touches. One loaded Cotes du Rhone!/ Full flower, spice,
peppercorn, garrigue flavors. Rangy. A taste adventure. And a heart-throb.
More to come. 16.3+. wt050405-09. 02
CAPE MENTELLE MARGARET RIVER SHIRAZ -
(AUSTRALIA) Dark and brooding. Inky-deep black fruit, bacon, flowers,
bitter chocolate, and leather. Fine concentration. Western Australia
shiraz coolness and clarity./ Plenty of dark fruit flavors, plus
herbs, sage, menthol, and sandalwood. Well structured, with ample
tannins. 16.0+. wt050405-10. 03
K VINTNERS WAHLUKE SLOPE SYRAH - (U.S.)
Real syrah and real garrigue. The real deal: berry, pepper, flower,
and meat./ Full and floral and lovely. Exotic. Special. Full flavors
of berries and flowers. I like a big red wine that’s not afraid
to be fruity and floral. Not at all lean and tart and tannic like
a lot of Washington syrahs. A unique experience in syrah. 16.9. wt050405-11. 04
CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE SEMI-DRY RIESLING
- (U.S.) Brisk and full and minerally. Aromas of apple and peach.
Lots of grip./ Rich and sweetish, with acid and grip to balance.
And uncommon power. 15.7. wt050405-12. 04
CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE LATE HARVEST RIESLING
- (U.S.) Sweeter and more floral. Sleek, refined, peachy./ Fine
peach and apple fruit focus. Good ripeness and depth. Both sweet
and tangy. Well balanced and easy to like. 16.0. wt050405-13. 03
COTNARI, DACIA - (ROMANIA) Sweet peach
brandy aroma with musk and papaya highlights. Sauternes-like weight
and density./ Thick, sweet, pungent. Very generous for the price.
15.0. wt050405-14. WILD
VINES FRUTEZIA ORCHARD BLEND - (FRUIT)
Appley but watered down. Like apple juice with club soda added.
The fizz dilutes it./ Very sweet, but sugar is the only concentration
aspect. It’s otherwise thin on the goodies. 11.5. wt050405-15. WILD
VINES FRUTEZIA SUNSHINE BLEND - (FRUIT)
Intense fresh, tart peach aroma–very accurate and very lovely. I
don’t detect the orange at all./ Flavor confirms. Nice and sweet
and peachy. A suggestion of orange lifesaver at the end. 14.5.
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