WT021710-01. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH GRUNER VELTLINER PEPPER, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) None of us could find the ‘pepper’, though I have gotten a peppery nip from gru ves before, a sort of weissbier sensation. This is understated apple and lima./ Soft and easy like the Wachau a couple of weeks ago. Other 08s have been firmer. The finish is cool, brisk, and dry though. 15.8.
Price
each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-02. 08 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, DOMAINE BERTHET-RAYNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 45% each clairette and bourboulenc, 10% grenache blanc. Organically grown. That’s a lot of bourboulenc, and it shows its very crisp, green-grape aroma./ Yes, green-fruited bourboulenc makes a strong statement, even adding some astringency. But that’s not all. With aeration, there’s preserved lemon, stone fruits, loquat, almond, smoke, duck fat,
and honeysuckle. Quite a show. All the varieties are chiming in now. Some glycerol on entry, and a stony minerality to the finish. Lots of entertainment. Still on the compact side. Give it more bottle age. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-03. 08 VALLEY OF THE MOON SONOMA PINOT BLANC - (U.S.) Oh, yes! Rich as usual yet pinot blanc green-fruited too. Powerful, succulent. Waxy. True./ Rich fruit filling within a solid frame. The moderation in acidity of pinot blanc, especially warmer climate pinot blanc. Great juice. Well, this is fully up to the quality level of the 07 and 06. Well liked by the group. 16.4.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-04. 08 KENWOOD SONOMA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Well proportioned measures of oak and fruit. Appley chardonnay; spicy and flattering oak seasonings. Stone fruits and melons too. Gentle on the approach./ Comes on with lots of sweet oak spices and malolactic creaminess. The fruit remains perky though, so the wine has spine as well as flesh. The usual reliability here. 15.9.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-05. 09 CALCU COLCHAGUA VALLEY ROSE - (CHILE) 50% malbec, 40% syrah, 10% carmenere. And ‘100% sauvignon blanc’. The desk sample a couple of weeks back showed me red fruit–strawberry candy and cranberry. However today, we all agreed, that if blindfolded we would have guessed sauvignon blanc. Crisp and fresh gooseberry, grapefruit, and orange peel aromas./ Soft and sweetish on entry. Then the acidity shows up. Definitely
sauvignon like. One taster guesses that this was the product of the green harvest, where even red grapes have tart white fruit character. Hard to believe this came from the same batch as the desk sample. 16.0, as an appealing, sauvignon-like wine. But shows no rose character.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-06. 07 KENWOOD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Real pinot cherry and strawberry aromas. RRV race and class. Convincing pinot./ Both rich and racy. Mulberry, tea leaf, creamy chocolate. Peels, snap, acid, juice, race. And glycerol to enrich the texture. An out and out bargain in RRV pinot. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-07. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH ZWEIGELT CHERRY, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) OK, I can find some ‘cherry’ here, unlike the ‘pepper’ in the gru ve. Sweet-smelling and aiming to please./ Yes, cherry, and berries too. Dry and full. Not a bit green-fruited like many an Austrian red. Well constructed. Real depth. One big zweigelt. 16.0.
Price each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-08. 05 TOAD HOLLOW RESERVE RICHARD MCDOWELL VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Dark fruits, smoke, black licorice, brett. A lot of oak over merlot black cherry character./ Moving into a mature phase aromatically, while some manageable 05 tannins remain. Strong elements of oak and brett. Reserve style. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-09. 08 LUBERON GRENACHE-SYRAH, LE PARADOU - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Did Luberon drop the ‘Cotes’ like Ventoux? I guess. 60/40. Fresh and crisp, and a bit lean in the 08 way. But this has cool-vintage garrigue! Crisp, sweet berry fruit. Good stuff!/ Oh, yes! A fabulous display of garrigue and cool berry fruit. Good acidity, of course. Some astringency to work out, or to appreciate with food. Another good 08 southern Rhone
discovery. Well liked by the group. 16.3+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-10. 07 COTEAUX DE BESSILLES CUVEE RESERVEE, DOMAINE SAINT MARTIN DE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Starts out surprisingly cool and compact for 07. Licorice laced. Well built. With aeration the 07 fruit ripeness starts to come out. Even a touch of singed fruit./ Bold and full. This is really substantial. But it needs more bottle age to allow all its aromas and flavors to form. Unusually compact for the vintage. 16.4+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $13.99
WT021710-11. 08 COTES DU RHONE L’OMBRE DES FONTAINES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault. Sweet fruited nose for 08. Strong too. Sweet licorice./ More sweet licorice. Dark, secretive qualities of 08. Yes, terse and tight on the palate. Needs time. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-12. 08 COTES DU RHONE DOMAINE MAS DU BOUQUET, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% carignan. Somewhat reduced to start. Opens to show woodsy tones, spiced meat, and cedar./ Tight on entry, but sweetens up some with warming and aerating in the mouth. No reduction to the palate. Good volume, power, glycerol, especially for the vintage. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-13. 07 VALREAS - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VAL DES ROIS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Spicy and powerful (14%). Tight. Much bigger and more forceful than the 04./ Indeed, full body and texture. Much more material richness than the 04. Real strength and depth. Fine acidity here, as always. Yes! The group was impressed. 16.5+.
Price each (at time of tasting)
$15.99
WT021710-14. 07 CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES ALTOVINUM, EVODIA - (SPAIN) Sweet fruit up front. Powerful (14.5%). Ripe and large. Blackberry, strawberry, cinnamon, bitter chocolate, even flowers./ Sweet and sassy red fruit. Plummy and cohesive. Good acidity. Stylish and seductive. Great price. Popular with the group. 16.2+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
WT021710-15. 07 CASTILLA TEMPRANILLO GRANROJO, ROJO MOJO - (SPAIN) Very ripe and bold on the approach. Settles down to show good fruit quality. Not too ripe or powerful after all./ Well balanced. The fruit sweetness is attractive and nicely measured. Better than previous versions. 15.8.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-16. 07 ESPANA ESTE, BODEGAS ALTO ALMANZORA - (SPAIN) Generous and good fruit, wholesome fruit. Sweet strawberry./ Sweet and flowing. Raspberry, cassis, walnut brownie. Good acidity and richness in balance. Best ever. 16.3.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-17. 09 EMILIANA NATURA RAPEL VALLEY GEWURZTRAMINER - (CHILE) Really quite full (14%). Genuine and generous gewurz aroma profile. Lychee, peach, tonic, ginger. Much more to give than the 08. Flashes Alsace power and intensity./ Yes, much larger and more expressive than the 08. Has gewurz astringency. Short of Alsace on the glycerol. Still, well priced and impressive New World take. 16.2.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-18. MOLDOVA CAHOR - (MOLDOVA) The Orthodox Church of Moldova used to import wine from Cahors and sweeten it with honey. Thus the origin of the name. Sweet and somewhat raisined and molasses like, which is all attractive. Liquid dates. Cherry blossom highlights. Good power (16%) to keep it from being too sticky./ Raisin, raisinette, honey, spice, power. Port like. Competes well with the cheaper Aussie tawnies. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
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Wednesday, March 31, 2010 WT033110-01. FIORE DI PROSECCO EXTRA DRY, CLARA C - (SPARKLING) Lovely, lilting fragrance to this. Flowers and pears as well as the customary apples./ Yes, lots of lift. At the drier end of Extra Dry. Fun, fruity, friendly. Easy to assimilate. Liked by the group. 16.2. WT033110-02. PROSECCO FIORI ROSE, CLARA C - (SPARKLING) Red peels. Red delicious apple and peel./ Apple, peach, red berry, and straw. Dry, with some edge from the peels extract. Good acidity. Better with food. Loquat and raspberry at the finale. Liked by the group. 15.7 WT033110-03. 08 LANGHE FAVORITA SARVAI, DELTETTO - (ITALY) Yes, that delicate floral and passion fruit thing about favorita. Less pushy than moscato./ Uplifting. Cool white peach flavors, and peach peel. Silky textured, with a nice mineral streak running through it. Right. Liked by the group. 16.3. WT033110-04. 08 GAVI, MASSONE - (ITALY) Good maturity brings a poached pear and hazelnut bouquet./ Big, assertive yellow-fruit thrust. Full, well textured. Good grip. Good mineral strength and accent that do not translate to steely firmness. Welcomes rich fare. 16.4. WT033110-05. 08 CIGALES ROSADO FUENTE DEL CONDE, BODEGAS GONZALEZ LARA - (SPAIN) From tempranillo. Becoming warm and soft with age. Some bell pepper amongst the raspberry and strawberry aromas./ Flavors of both fresh and cooked fruits. Rich and saucy. Good acidity. Long, clinging finish. Invites food. 15.8. WT033110-06. 08 CHINON LES MORINIERES, JOSEPH MELLOT - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh, bright, northern cabernet franc. Upbeat. Both fresh and jammy red raspberry. Sweet and alluring./ Raspberry, blackberry, dark plum, underbrush. Nicely polished tannins. Smooth and sassy. Sweet and easy. Seems chaptelized, likely for the better. It works. Come hither. 16.3. WT033110-07. 08 CHATEAU HAUT PLANTEY DUCLERQ, HAUT MEDOC CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Bright blackberry and black currant cabernet aromas. Crisp, wholesome 08 claret with good form and ripe fruit filling./ Blackberry and cherry fruit of adequate ripeness and density. Compact, with racy acidity. The tannins are not obtrusive. This could be brought to the table now. However, it will reward another year in the bottle with greater softness and fruit fulfillment. 15.8+. WT033110-08. 07 CAHORS, CHATEAU LABRANDE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Sweet, full, ripe, solid, powerful, large. Juicy, succulent, pulpy black cherry and black plum. From examples to date, looks like Cahors was better in 07 than was Bordeaux./ Sweet and spicy, with some sachet airs. Fine tannin, good acidity, substantial extract, and plenty of juice. Approachable now; capable of improving in bottle for 2-3 years. Very popular with the group. 16.5+.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010 WT032410-01. 06 BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX BRUT, SAINT HILAIRE - (SPARKLING) Oh, this has good bottle bouquet, lush and nutty. More than any previous vintage. And the fruit is bright and rich, showing youthful zest. Ripe apple, and a lemon edge./ Fine, lively acidity. Good body and depth. Plenty of both fruit and bottle bouquet. Best vintage yet. Definite value. Bravo! Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT032410-02. 08 WEINLAND GRUNER VELTLINER, ECKER liter - (AUSTRIA) Good apple, pear, loquat, avocado, and snow pea aromas. Full, forthcoming, generous./ Oh, boy! Is this juicy and alluring! And mouthwatering, and mouthfilling! Rich and hefty as well as pliant. Good thing this comes in liters. It’s an irresistible quaffer. 16.2. WT032410-03. 08 BURGENLAND GRUNER VELTLINER, HOPLER - (AUSTRIA) Richer. More apple, pear, and white peach, and less legume./ Rich and smooth. But there’s no lack of piquancy and steely mineral brace to its brisk carriage. The group appreciated the extra substance of this one. 16.0. WT032410-04. 06 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Apple, grains, calcaire. Good oak, classy and complex and generous for such a modest appellation./ Yes, this has good oak seasoning and plenty of fruit vitality. They’re well married, creating the Faiveley blanc style. Very full bodied. Real Burgundy terroir. Seems youthful still. 16.4+. WT032410-05. 07 PIESPORTER MICHELSBERG, JACOB KNOOP - (GERMANY) Very attractively fragrant. Lemon, custard, apple, flowers. Not riesling, but fruity, peachy. And there are exotic labrusca airs that come from some of the German crosses./ Flows easy. Sweet and good. Nice acid tang. What fun! And good value. 15.7. WT032410-06. 08 MARTIN RAY ANGELINE RESERVE SONOMA-MENDOCINO-SANTA BARBARA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Good, fresh, effusive pinot cherry. Strawberry and cranberry too. Nose presages good acidity. Bright, vivid even./ Some animal tones not alien to pinot. And oak. Plenty of tart, edgy acidity of a cool, coastal pinot. Delivers good value. 16.0. WT032410-07. 07 CHATEAU LEYTRIE, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Roberts @Veyrac. Gold Medal - Aquitaine. Sweet and ripe enough fruit. Good 07. Dark plum, cherry, and berry aromas. Spicy vigor./ Lovely 07 elegance, claret weight, levity. Finely etched acidity and fine grained tannins. This is real claret, and exemplary of what 07 can provide when it’s on top of its game. Very well liked by the group and thought a good value.
16.1. WT032410-08. 06 DOURO, CASA DA CORCA - (PORTUGAL) Nacional, roriz, and franca; 10 months in oak. Fabulous ripeness, especially for 06. Sweet fruit and fine, smoky-toasty oak form an elegant and attractive amalgam./ Yes, both the fruit and oak are sweet and abundant. And fabulously well balanced. Great acidity, which is a mark of most Portuguese reds no matter how hot the region and growing season. Wow! 16.7. WT032410-09. 07 COSTIERES DE NIMES GS, CHATEAU GRANDE CASSAGNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Unfiltered. Fresh, bright, and upbeat 07 fruit. Sweet and lovely raspberry fruit clarity. Very juicy./ Bright and ripe raspberry flavor. Sweet 07 mien. Great acidity. Fine tannin. A wonderful successor to the 06. 16.5. WT032410-10. 07 GIGONDAS, LE MAS DE COLLINES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Large, well textured, palpable and powerful. Well, this is Gigondas! And it’s also elegant and intricate. Black cherry, blackberry, cracked pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, charcuterie, game, chocolate. Has it all./ In the mouth too, its presence is marked. Big, ripe, concentrated, meaty. Full texture, volume, material, depth, body, intensity, power, potential.
A complete Gigondas, and one of the best vintages from Collines. The wine of the night on most score sheets. 17.6+. WT032410-11. 07 FOLIE A DEUX FORCHINI VINEYARD DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 100 year old vines on the eastern bench of DCV. Wow! Certainly doesn’t back off from the previous wine. The service order is correct! Full oak, full power, full sweet fruit. That’s Folie!/ Sweet, ripe, and spicy fruit and oak combo. Vanilla, cedar, spices. Powerful. Fine grained tannin. Mr. Big. A little much for several tasters. Better
with BBQ than baguettes. 16.5+.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 WT031710-01. 07 TAVEL LA ROUVIERE, MAISON BOUACHON (SKALLI) - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Losing some of its aromatic vigor to age. At least that was my impression on Wednesday, hours after it was opened. But by Sunday, the aroma had rallied, brightened up./ The palate both days is sweet and full and spicy-fruity. Yes, this delivers in the mouth; shows stamina. 15.8. WT031710-02. 07 NINTH ISLAND TASMANIA PINOT NOIR - (AUSTRALIA) Upbeat. Sweet and spicy, ripe and tangy. Cool climate pinot with lovely oak contributions. Spiced cherry, blackberry, cranberry, tea./ Fine oak-fruit marriage. Sweet fruit and cool, zesty spices. Zesty acidity. This is unique. Unlike NZ, OR, CA, Burgundy, or any other source’s pinots. Previous vintages were less expressive, intriguing, enticing. This is a
big, most pleasant surprise. And the price is nice. The group was impressed. 17.0+. WT031710-03. 05 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, CASTELLO DI QUERCETO - (ITALY) Shows the attributes of riserva barrel aging. Mellow, savory, toasty. What riserva is about./ Yes! Fine barrel contributions: toast, incense, spice. An wonderful fruit retention, the cream of the crop in 05. True beauty. Damn! Every vintage of this is wonderful. And each is amazingly individual too. Well liked by the group. 17.0+. WT031710-04. 08 TOSCANA CASAMATTA, BIBI GRAETZ - (ITALY) Oh, this is a sweet, come hither, modern rendition. So open armed, generous, spicy-fruity./ Yes, easy going, sweetly fruity. Eager to please. But not sloppy or pandering. There’s good acidity and fine, melted tannins. The best of contemporary Tuscan winemaking. And a little more conventional than the boisterous 07 Santa Martina. 16.5. WT031710-05. 06 CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA RISERVA, SELLA & MOSCA - (ITALY) Dried red berries. Fragrant clove, sandalwood, and white pepper airs. Very sweet fruited. And nutty from riserva aging. The usual commendable style and quality here./ Lively and spicy. Great acid verve. Minimal oak extracts; maximum time in oak contributions. Fine tannin. Wonderful warmth, comfort, leisure. Wow! Another winner in the series. Well
liked by the group. 16.8+. WT031710-06. 07 LOTUS CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Winery at Morgan Hill. Vanilla and loose-knit oakiness. Sweet fruit, if not particularly varietal in aroma on Wednesday. By Sunday though, this had begun to take on the bright cherry qualities of merlot. And the oak had begun to settle in. You’ve got to be impressed by a seven dollar wine that improves in a covered glass for four days./ Yes, sweet vanilla oak. And cherry
fruit flavor that says merlot. Appealing palate. 15.3+. WT031710-07. 07 LOTUS CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Here the oak is classier. Less vanilla, less sawdust. More spice, more finesse, better integration. And varietal expression on the nose from the get-go./ Very much varietal in flavor: blackberry, black currant. And the good oak reverberates, stating toast and warm spices. There’s elegance here, and class. A winner. 15.9. WT031710-08. 07 DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET MENDOZA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ARGENTINA) Organic. The fruit seems a little and firm, not plush. Wood and vanilla aromas stand out. 07 cabernet toughness. Better on Sunday, showing improved oak integration, cabernet form and character, and Bousquet elegance./ The palate is sweet and ripe throughout, even to the point of being plush. Full bodied. Rallies on the finish to become more
lifted and elegant, displaying purple fruit qualities. 16.0+. WT031710-09. 07 DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Organic. Better right out of the box. Clear and cool malbec fruit, black and snappy. And sweet. Black licorice too. And black coffee–Italian roast. Dark and deep, with plushness and depth./ Sweet, rich black cherry malbec flavor. Balance and elegance. The Bousquets have always shown elegant flair. This one is top drawer. 16.7+. WT031710-10. 06 NORFOLK RISE MOUNT BENSON SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Ripe, strong, sweet, straightforward. Something of a monolith./ Warm climate sweetness and power. Smoked meat, oak, coffee. Thick textured. At least you’ve gotta say it’s generous for the price. Frank and forceful. This is supposed to be from the cool Limestone Coast. Seems more like central Victoria shiraz. 15.6. WT031710-11. BROADBENT FINE RICH SWEET MADEIRA - (FORTIFIED) Very nutty. Golden raisin and date too. And a lemony acidity. Toward dry. A bit of the dried fruit paste of younger madeira, like Rainwater. I think this is a three year old. Not much age-earned finesse, but certainly very rich and expressive./ Sweet and nutty. Fig, date, sorghum, espresso, walnut, dulce de leche. That good acidity of madeira. And relatively
dry. Long, lovely finish. Well, this is useful, all purpose. The French would drink it as an aperitif. I imagine it could go on the rocks in summer. Certainly a reliable cooking madeira that is superior to the American versions. The price is reasonable. 16.6.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010 WT031010-01. 08 GASCOGNE UGNI BLANC-COLOMBARD CLASSIC, DOMAINE DU TARIQUET - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Has Gascogne dropped the ‘Cotes de’ like Ventoux and Luberon? Clean and crisp. A charmer, showing apple, stone fruit, maybe even some loquat./ Good colombard fruitiness. Good, piquant ugni acidity. That plump and tender side of Gascogne blanc too. 15.9. WT031010-02. 08 GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DU POUY - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Both these domaines belong to the ubiquitous Grassa family, which must market a good half of all Gascogne blanc under one label or another. This has a little more fruit personality, more to offer. Apples, stone fruits, flowers./ Juicy and flavorful. Deep. Lively, tangy fruit acidity. Finishes soft, gently sweetish, and easy. 16.1. WT031010-03. 08 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, DOMAINE TROIS FRERES - (FRANCE LOIRE) Oh! Fresh and large! Nostril-stretching. Hard to draw it all in with one breath. Lots of character. Pear, apple, citrus, flowers./ Yes, 08 surge of flavor and textural attack. Round muscadet fruit with great acidity to bracket it. Plus minerals. One dynamic Muscadet! 16.7. WT031010-04. 08 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, DOMAINE DE LA LOUVETRIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Selection Hermine d’Or. Suffers for the serving order, though who could have known. Much less extroverted. Much more discreet, shy./ Great acidity. Tight and backward. Good form promises age-worthiness. And aeration bears this out, as the wine develops distinctive sur-lie richness and minerality. Give it bottle time. 16.0+. WT031010-05. 07 BODEGA ATAMISQUE CATALPA TUPUNGATO PINOT NOIR - (ARGENTINA) Maturing red wine bouquet with good measure of oak involvement. Ripe, warm climate pinot, with some pitch and pepper./ Oaky, hot, strong. Some suggestions of varietal character, but much lost to barrel and age. Likely useful at the table though. 15.4. WT031010-06. 08 CHIANTI RUFINA, RENZO MASI - (ITALY) Young and terse up front, with dried fruit sweetness in back. True to the estate style, but still 08 contrite./ Yes, 08 black and firm. No problem. This will blossom over the coming months. The wine has confidence and so do I. Aeration brings out plum and cola, and that pretty stylishness of Rufina. The usual good stuff from Masi, and look at the price! 16.1+. WT031010-07. 07 MINERVOIS, DOMAINE AIME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% carignan, 30% syrah. Bold, sweet, black carignan dominance. Cherry and licorice. Old vine carignan, I’ll bet. One big, big Minervois./ Looms large. Dense, full, warm, lush. Black fruit, blackberry, black currant, licorice, black pepper, black and green olives. Size, volume, and promise. The inherent dignity of old vines carignan. 16.3+. WT031010-08. 08 CHATEAU HAUT PLANTEY DUCLERQ, HAUT MEDOC CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Good take on 08 and Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon. Dark berries and currants./ 08 grip. Some fruit leanness this wine has always shown, even in 05. Firm, with fine tannin. This is surely the best since the 05, and virtually its equal. I think this vintage is going to entertain us. 15.9+. WT031010-09. 08 RIBERA DEL DUERO LEGON ROBLE, BODEGAS VALTOSTAO - (SPAIN) Dark and sullen young 08 style. Rich in peel extracts. Much different from the flamboyant, open-armed 07. But tasted younger too. Full of material and fruit concentration./ Oh, but the palate is much more accessible! Fine oak spiciness. Time in barrel has opened it up. Elegant, racy, lifted. Another fine one in this series. 16.7+. WT031010-10. 06 MONTSANT, LATRIA - (SPAIN) 50% garnacha, 50% carinena. Licorice and other ventilating aromas. High altitude freshness and lift Perfumed./ Fresh and upbeat. 06 density. Old vines extraction. Parallels the style and quality of the 04. Great acidity. Body, depth, burnished texture. Rich, balanced, creamy finish. Needs some bottle age. Will match the appeal of the 04 if given 6 months to a year. 16.2+. WT031010-11. 08 MANIFESTO! NORTH COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Winemaker at Graton. Sweet and syrupy fruit. Spicy oak countered by great fruit ripeness./ Super-ripe. Racy-spicy too. Vanilla and bitter chocolate. Everyone commented on the ripeness and called it zinfandel-like. 15.8. WT031010-12. 07 BODEGA ATAMISQUE CATALPA OLD VINES TUPUNGATO MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) 07 power, dryness, and compact fruit core./ 07 dry and austere. Proper for the vintage. Too young still. 15.4+. WT031010-13. 08 DELICATO CALIFORNIA SHIRAZ - (U.S.) Oh, yes! Continues its winning streak. In fact, one of the best vintages. Deep blackberry and licorice aromas. Sweet fruit nose. This is not Valley. Much of the fruit must come from its thousands of acres in Monterey./ Sweet and berry like. Good acidity. A well balanced presentation. Delicious value. 16.0. WT031010-14. 08 TWISTED OLD VINES CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet and not too Valley. More Lodi like. Good strength. Black pepper, licorice, dried fruit./ Sweet and sassy. Representative Lodi area zin. Not woody. Good strength and acidity to balance fruit sweetness. They do well at zin. 15.7. WT031010-15. 07 CAMPUS OAKS OLD VINE LODI ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet and tarry, but not as tarry as some years. 07 fruit ripeness plumps it up. Berries, briar, pomegranate. Some oak, but not as dry and woody as some in the past. The usual highlights without any drawbacks./ Yes, 07 gives sweet, large fruit to balance the usual oak. Quite powerful. I can see the popularity. 16.0. WT031010-16. 07 ROSENBLUM SONOMA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Well, finally, Rosenblum is back! The last couple of vintages, the County series wines have seemed baked and overwooded. This pair is nice! Fresh and powerful. An idea representative of its appellation./ Sweet and strong. Gutsy. Gripping extract without tannin excess. Aromatic and textural largesse. Growth to go. 16.8+. WT031010-17. 07 ROSENBLUM CONTRA COSTA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Fresher, sweeter, darker, clearer fruit of Contra Costa. The Bay influence is evident./ Inky, powerful, and sweet. Yet highly focused and pure. Again, a delicious example of zinfandel from its county of origin. The group was impressed by both, this one in particular. 17.1. WT031010-18. 05 SPELLETICH CELLARS ALVISO VINEYARD AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Yo, dude! 16.5%! Good aromatic development, showing its extra two years versus the above. Suavity earned from time in barrel and bottle. A wonderful oak-fruit melange, now well melded. Amador ripeness and power. Black cherry, cedar, tobacco, vanilla, raisinettes, mocha./ Forceful, spiritous, vibrant, focused. Dried black fruits, licorice, baking
chocolate. And power to burn! Wears its strength well. I appreciate the body, musculature. Wow! 17.5.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010 WT030310-01. 08 BODEGA SILVESTRE HINOJOSA 2 COPAS SAN JUAN BLANCO - (ARGENTINA) Sweet lemon, white peach, and loquat./ Lemon, green apple, and milk. Fresh and simple. Decent price. 14.6. WT030310-02. 08 CARTLIDGE & BROWN DANCING CROW VINEYARD LAKE COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Compact still, though sweet-fruited. Hint of oak?/ Sappy, ripe fruits. Lemon and peel. Good acidity. Not as inspiring as the 07. 14.8. WT030310-03. 08 GARD CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE DU NIZON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Well, this has a much more pungent aroma. From chardonnay instead of sauvignon blanc. Quite the switch. Quince, apple, citrus. What else? Tropics? Generous wine. Good job, good value. But take note. This wine had some off aromas when it was first opened. It took two days of aeration before it left these positive impressions. 15.9. WT030310-04. 08 PINOT GRIS ROMANUS, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE ALSACE) Fresh, fragrant, sleek, and creamy, with light floral lilt. Plenty of stone fruit, red apples, and loquat./ Lush and lusty style of Albrecht and pinot gris within a firm 08 framework. Both richness and focus. Well tuned fruit. Creamy textured, with lemon curd feel and flavor. Will gain even more fatness with aging. 16.4+. WT030310-05. 07 CARTLIDGE & BROWNE NORTH COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Good and dark fruited, particularly for the vintage. Suspect quite a bit of Mendocino fruit here. They’ve got the oak down just right. A beauty for the price. Loaded with cabernet aromas, style, build. Impressive value. 16.3. WT030310-06. 09 MAIPE MENDOZA BONARDA - (ARGENTINA) Oh, boy! This is good! Sweet fruit cremes. Cherry, red and black berries, and purple berries too. Loganberry, boysenberry, mulberry./ Sweet, fruity, nutty, vanilla coated. Fine acidity. A balanced melange of flavors, distinctive, and pleasing. Delightful effort. And value. 16.3. WT030310-07. 08 BODEGA SILVESTRE HINOJOSA 2 COPAS MENDOZA TINTO - (ARGENTINA) 80% tempranillo, 20% malbec. Understated red berry aroma of New World tempranillo./ Simple, straightforward, vinous, and pleasing for the price. 15.0. WT030310-08. 07 DOURO CHARAMBA, AVELEDA - (PORTUGAL) Roriz, barroca, franca, nacional. Wine Spectator 88 - Best Value. Nice to have Aveleda back in the market. Dark and solid. Not a bit too ripe; not as you might have expected from a Douro table wine of a Vintage Port year. Must come from the high country and back valleys./ Raspberry, cassis, spice. Pleasing warmth. Impressive value and one of those rare finds: a wine
under $10 that is age-worthy. In fact, well under $10. 15.8+. WT030310-09. 04 CORBIERES TRADITION, CHATEAU AIGUILLOUX - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Deep and ripe and rich for Corbieres and the vintage. At a nice stage of development. No 04 reticence left./ Fabulous. Currant, raisin, clove, flowers. This speaks volumes. A beautiful glass for current enjoyment. 16.4. WT030310-10. 08 COTES DU VENTOUX, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wonderfully sweet elderberry fruit aroma. Much riper, richer, more forward, and more beautiful than so many of the other 08 Southern Rhone reds./ Strawberry, fruit confiture, peppercorn.. Forward, eager. Bring it on through summer. 16.4. WT030310-11. 07 COTES DU RHONE, LES TROIS COURONNES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) @Tulette. Nice, friendly, sweet nose. Definitely the 07 fruit forward style. Very attractive for the price. As it was a year and a half back, when we tried a pre-arrival sample. Surprised there are still stocks. Well priced. 15.9. WT030310-12. 05 COTES DU RHONE, MATTHIEU DE BRULLY - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Like a lot of 05s at this interval, it’s sullen, introverted. Can’t get a good read. A little cherry creme character comes out with airing. Wait it out. 14.0++. WT030310-13. 06 COTES DU RHONE PREMIER TERROIR, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Betwixt and between aroma and bouquet, youth and maturity./ Burly, savory, leathery. Solidly built but stolid at this stage. Give it a chance. 15.6+. WT030310-14. 07 LIRAC, CHATEAU BOUCARUT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Pretty firm for 07. The style it’s shown in youth in previous vintages. Elegantly wrought Gard styling too./ Sweet black cherry and berries, with a smoky patina. Peppercorn, game, and leather. Finesse and reserve. I like its future. 16.4+. WT030310-15. 08 NINE STONES BAROSSA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Lush Barossa speaking. Chocolate covered raspberries. More like fruit spread than jam. Smooth; no seeds. Ripe and rich but not cooked. Nine Stones’ got it down. 16.7. WT030310-16. 08 MCMANIS FAMILY RIVER JUNCTION ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) The usual good McManis zin raspberry fruit, laced with American oak./ Black raspberry, black cherry, vanilla, and milk chocolate explode on the palate. One of the strongest deliveries yet. Will get even better as the oak settles in. 16.0+.
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