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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- March, 2006 |
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Wednesday, March 29, 2006 wt032906-01. 95
HENRI GIRAUD AY GRAND CRU FUT DE CHENE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay. Yes, yes,
yes! Big, buxom, chewy. A glassful of grain. Positively mealy. Toast,
lush, baked apple and pear flan fruit aromas, floral perfumes, caramel
creme, and roasted nuts. Very full and richly developed. All about
weight and bottle bouquet./ Very, very full and mealy. And meal-worthy.
No aperitif here. Vigorous, engaging, and persistent. 18.5. wt032906-02. 96
HENRI GIRAUD AY GRAND CRU FUT DE CHENE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Younger. More grip, structure. Solid, compact.
Lively and penetrating. More chalk, limestone. Shows the red fruit
and the barrel aging. A busload of goodness here./ Big mass of 96
dry extract. Positively chewy. Huge, authoritative. Shows pinot
noir (cherry), chardonnay (apple), and oak char (toast, smoke) flavors.
Great framework, great acidity. Total 96 style, grip. This vintage
is fully up to the Giraud winemaking challenge. 19.0+. wt032906-03. 03
POUILLY FUME DOMAINE DES BERTHIERS, JEAN-CLAUDE DAGUENEAU - (FRANCE LOIRE) Plenty brisk and bright for its age
and vintage. Fresh peach juice. Stony underlayment./ Yes, bright
and fresh and juicy. Singularly peachy in 03. I often get peaches
from Pouilly Fume and almost never from Sancerre. The peachiness
is accentuated by the warmth of the vintage, but not at the expense
of clarity and refreshment. Soft and delicious. An ideally crafted
03 that is surprisingly vital for age and vintage. Come hither.
16.3. wt032906-04. 03
RULLY MEIX CADOT 1ER CRU, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full presentation, with plenty of smoky, toasty
oak and grain aromas. Good Chalonnais resin. 03 open, ripe fruitiness
too. Already attractive and generous./ Good oak frame and flavor.
03 sweet, creamy fruit. Well balanced combo of oak and fruit. Soft
and rich and ready to enjoy, though it will be good for another
2 years or so. 16.3. wt032906-05. 03
SAINT AUBIN 1ER CRU, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lots of zesty oak expression: toast and warm
spices. Tropical fruit and butterscotch overtones of a fat-cat chardonnay
vintage. A full and generous wine from both oak and fruit standpoints./
Here you have the superior fullness and weight of a Cote de Beaune
versus Cote Chalonnaise blanc. Richness and sweetness of 03 too.
Hugely generous. And fine. You get the Puligny like framing as well
as the 03 filling. Tangy, lively calcaire aspects of Puligny. 16.8. wt032906-06. 04
BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, DOMAINE CHATELUS -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) I had a feeling this would still be vital, and
it is. Wow! Mint and camphor; sweet, bright, lively red berry, cherry,
and plum fruit; and some licorice./ Rich and right. Nice and smooth
now. Handsome value. 15.5. wt032906-07. 04
COSTIERES DE NIMES LASIRA VF, PERRIN -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 75% syrah, 25% grenache. Bright and cool.
Very 04. Black and red berries and currants, spices too. Sweet,
zesty, vital./ Sweet and garrigue-filled palate. Cigar-box highlights.
Continues to gain volume and richness as it airs. Great 04 acidity,
form, charm, length. Definite value. Good future too. 15.8. wt032906-08. 04
PORTA RESERVA MAIPO VALLEY CARMENERE -
(CHILE) Silver Medal - Paris - Wood spice, incense, leather (often
in carmenere). Rich and fine. Brambly boysenberry aroma. Most uplifting./
Fine flavors and textures of fruit and oak in harmony. Balanced
and fine. Modern. 15.9. wt032906-09. 04
PORTA RESERVA ACONCAGUA VALLEY MERLOT
- (CHILE) Very sweet boysenberry jam aroma. Some elderberry too.
Sweet vanilla oak./ Ripe and rich. Wood gives cedar and incense
extras. Sweet, full, long, alluring. Modern. 15.9. wt032906-10. 00
BAROLO TENUTA ALNULFO, COSTA DI BUSSIA
- (ITALY) Taut, angled and elegant for 00. Solid build. Anise, fennel,
tar, tobacco, sweet berries, plum, dried citrus peel and flowers,
cocoa, and clove aromas. Pretty complex, I’d venture to say. Forerunners
of bottle bouquet showing./ Sweet fruits up front on the palate.
Scented in the mouth too, with notions of sachet, spices, and licorice.
Good acidity. Firm core of more compact fruit and fruit tannin gives
promise of additional volume and flavor range after 2-3 years’ aging.
17.0+.
Wednesday, March 22, 2006 wt032206-01. 01
SASBACHERWALDENER GRAUER BURGUNDER TROCKEN, ALDE GOTT - (GERMANY) Well developed bouquet of honey and straw.
With airing comes apricot. And it needs airing, because it’s sulphurous
to start./ Bright, ripe, generous yellow fruits and honey flavor,
with some dried apricot extras. 14.6. wt032206-02. 04
KUNDE MAGNOLIA LANE SONOMA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) I generally prefer younger New World sauvignons,
but this has an appeal all its own. Tangerine nose, sweet, and developing
a bouquet suggestive of its age. Passion fruit and pineapple rind
also. / Again, the California fruit sweetness. Canned grapefruit
juice flavor. There’s some viognier in this that bends it a little
out of a straight-line sauvignon blanc presentation. Nice and tangy.
15.7. wt032206-03. 04
KUNDE SONOMA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Heavy oak smoke and toast. Nice expression of pear, stone fruits,
and lemon meringue too./ Sweetish, rich, creamy, and woody. Some
ripe citrus: orange. Tangy, sweet-tart, Sonoma Valley cool. Some
wood tannin. 15.2. wt032206-04. 03
CHATEAU DAMASE, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Sweet and ripe enough fruit to be a convincing 03. Clarety
demeanor. Light oak touch. Even-handed, well proportioned and presented.
Plenty to offer. Nice./ Yes, very well mannered. Real comfort, equilibrium
to its form and fitness. Fruit, licorice, tobacco. Good acidity–a
special attraction this vintage. Rich, polished, well tuned. Lots
to like here. 16.0. wt032206-05. 03
CHATEAU MAINE GAZIN VIEILLES VIGNES LIVENNE, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Rich and intricate. Lots to offer:
merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon fruit characteristics
all present. And good oak influences, like incense. Large, buxom,
demonstrative, fine, complex./ Full and well extracted. Plenty of
fruit and oak feels and flavors. Fine and lingering tannins. An
ambitious effort. 16.7+. wt032206-06. 03
CHATEAU ANNEREAUX, LALANDE DE POMEROL
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Well, if this isn’t something! Did Michel Rolland
pay a visit? This has gone from a very traditional Right Bank claret
to a thoroughly modern one. Sweet, ripe, exotic fruit and flower
perfumes. Lots of cassis thickness and power. Wow!/ Rich and exotic
indeed. Fabulously ripe and rangy. Fine tannin. The best use of
this warm vintage’s fruit. Irresistible. 17.2. wt032206-07. 99
CHATEAU RAMAFORT, MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX)
Finally coming out of its shell. Rich cabernet fruit and old-time
claret barnyard bouquet. Broad, soft, and smoky now, showing admirable
bouquet development./ Yes, this is no longer mean, lean, and green.
Features rich and ripe tannins. Good now. 16.0. wt032206-08. 01
KUNDE SONOMA VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Green
cherry, blackberry, and licorice nose. American oak. Some sense
of 01 form./ Both ripe and underripe cherry. Quite large and generous.
Big but dextrous. Persistent. 15.8. wt032206-09. 03
BULLETIN PLACE SE AUSTRALIA MERLOT - (AUSTRALIA)
Ripe enough and well composed. Power, texture, penetration. Spicy
oak chips and ripe fruit. Black olive and herb notes of merlot.
Well crafted./ Sweet and spicy. Good tannin, structure, and depth.
Enjoyable both for aroma/flavor and for texture. 15.5. wt032206-10. 03
BULLETIN PLACE SE AUSTRALIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (AUSTRALIA) Darker fruit, of course. Black cherry, currant. Nice
cool fruit, ripe and generous./ Lovely, cool, black fruit and fine
tannin again. These are good values. No Valley-ness of Riverlands
red wines. 15.5. wt032206-11. 04
JUMILLA WRONGO DONGO, BODEGAS JUAN GIL
- (SPAIN) Fresh, primary, Valley like, simple. But generous, warm,
and rich, with smoke, peppercorn, black fruit./ Now, wait a minute.
The palate has much more flavor range. Very flavorful and full of
both fruit and flowers. Nice, exotic floral aspects make this more
than just a One Trick Pony. And it’s meaty and muscular, juicy and
engaging. 15.7. wt032206-12. 03
COTES DU RHONE RESERVE, PERRIN - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Warm, ripe, solid. Rather mute to start, but there’s
a sense that something’s stuffed way down deep inside. Yes, dense
black fruit and black licorice emerge. And Provencal airs of broom
and laurel. Rather roti, not a surprise this vintage./ A bit roasted
on the palate too. Sweet and powerful–certainly an 03. Full, fine
tannins too. Rich grenache berry, plus herb and animal notes. 15.6. wt032206-13. 03
COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC PIC SAINT LOUP LA COSTE D’ALEYRAC, CHATEAU
DE LANCYRE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Some
spicy oak. Big, dense, ripe black fruits. Lots of garrigue. Lovely,
distinguished perfume. Lots of vigor./ Full of garrigue flavors
too. Spices and perfumes. Creamy black fruits and lively, fine-grained
tannins. Well crafted. Fabulous. 16.6. wt032206-14. 00
KUNDE SONOMA VALLEY SYRAH - (U.S.) Tar,
leather, animal, herbals, tobacco. Generous. Has volume./ Animal,
warmth, fur, fruit sweetness. Finally the 00s are beginning to fill
out. 15.4. wt032206-15. 03
NINE STONES HILLTOPS SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Sweet and spicy. Big, handsome, smoky, candy-coated black fruits.
Deep, pretty, elegant, cool. Nice herbals. Has panache./ / Sweet,
with vanilla and warm-spices oak tones. Tangy acidity. Fine structure
and texture. 16.2. wt032206-16. 03
NINE STONES MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
More oak and oak spices. Headier. Fine, focused black fruits./ Sweet,
candied entry. Softer, broader fruits. Spicy oak follows, with dill
and coconut flavors suggesting American oak. Warm, sweet, and spicy.
McLaren Vale shiraz warmth and power. 15.8. wt032206-17. 03
NINE STONES BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Sweet, ripe black fruit of Barossa. Barossa heft and depth. Black
licorice and port-like airs. Good oak-fruit balance./ Again, the
Barossa sweetness and softness that has critics hooked. Warm, welcoming,
stylish. Port-like. 15.9. wt032206-18. CAMPO
DE BORJA MOSCATEL, COTO DE HAYS half liter
- (SPAIN) I’m always looking for a new take on the fascinating muscat
family, and here it is. Wow! Smells like Canada Dry Ginger Ale!
Also pear, peach, honey, orange marmalade./ Unique. The ginger echoes
on the palate, and there’s a taste of Stewart’s Orange Cream Soda
too. Orange and vanilla–sort of a Creamsicle thing. Plus pineapple
and panetone. Sweet and special. 17.0.
Wednesday, March 15, 2006 wt031506-01. FRANCOIS
HEMART AY GRAND CRU BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING)
Fully fruity pinot noir entry followed by a rich, dense, and nutty
bouquet full of toasty lees autolysis complexity./ Solid, potent
core of sturdy fruit surrounded by a full complex of bottle bouquet
elements like toast, crackers, and grains. Big, ripe, generous extreme.
As round and rich seductive as they get. 17.5. wt031506-02. FRANCOIS
HEMART AY GRAND CRU ROSE BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) More red fruit. Strawberry. Cherry too. Tauter, more
austere because of the red-fruit material./ The palate is more eager
to please though, full of cherry, strawberry, and floral flavors
Firm red-fruit core. Maintains a refined bearing. 16.9+. wt031506-03. 05
PORCUPINE RIDGE WESTERN CAPE SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (SOUTH AFRICA) Quite thick, almost viscous. Ripe, appealing fruit,
mainly pear./ Valid warm climate sauvignon. Not the crisp, northern
aperitif style. Nice floral highlights. Unctuous. Enjoy with food.
15.3. wt031506-04. 05
DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET TUPUNGATO MALBEC-CABERNET ROSE - (ARGENTINA) 60-40 - Sweet red fruit. Watermelon, cantaloupe,
strawberry. Nice nose./ Ripe and juicy. Soft and easy. Mild and
sweetish. Direct appeal. 15.0. wt031506-05. 99
CHIANTI CLASSICO, CASA EMMA - (ITALY)
Like several of the 99s I’ve tasted over the last six months (mostly
riservas), this shows attractive maturity. Dried cherry, citrus
peel, and anise. Warm, rich, and nicely burnished mature fruit bouquet.
In step with the vintage at this age./ Again–all. Fine power, acidity,
glycerol, texture. Rich, fine, and generous. Polished, nicely evolved.
With good 99 framing. 16.8. wt031506-06. 05
DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET TUPUNGATO MERLOT
- (ARGENTINA) Fresh and real varietal character. Shows the higher
altitude–good for merlot. Cool, and a bit reduced. Red cherry and
peel. Sandalwood and spice highlights./ Young, plump, easy, right.
Nice merlot cherry sweetness. Dollop of cassis. Hard to resist.
One of the better Argentine merlots I’ve tasted. 15.8. wt031506-07. 05
DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET TUPUNGATO MALBEC
- (ARGENTINA) Blacker. Tougher. Black cherry versus red. Peel and
licorice. Dark chocolate./ Sweetish. Also easy, seductive, peppery.
Though not as polished as the merlot. More old-style. 15.5+. wt031506-08. 03
ALTO ADIGE VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI HEART MERLOT
- (ITALY) Merlot cherry and full form of 03./ Plump, with spiced
plum and leaf. Some 03 fruit sweetness and plenty of high-altitude
tartness. 14.7. wt031506-09. 04
PORCUPINE RIDGE COASTAL REGION MERLOT
- (SOUTH AFRICA) Bright, sweet fruit, warm and ripe./ Sweet and
sassy palate with plenty of ripe fruit and lively, refreshing acidity.
15.2. wt031506-10. 04
PORCUPINE RIDGE COASTAL REGION CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (SOUTH AFRICA) Good currant cabernet character./ Again,
an attractive fruit statement, bright, enjoyable. 15.3. wt031506-11. 03
CHATEAU DE LA COUR D’ARGENT, BORDEAUX
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Denis Barraud @St. Sulpice Faldyrens - Dried,
candied fruits and citron. Violets, cassis, cedar, tobacco, black
olive too. Pretty, warm-vintage claret. Ripe berries, mannered floral
grace, and accent of wood spices./ Sweet fruit palate, 03 ripe.
Plenty of perfume–oak and fruit. Good grip. Will improve for 1-2
years. 15.3+. wt031506-12. 02
CAHORS FUTS DE CHENE, DOMAINE CROIX DU MAYNE
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Dry cherry, citrus peel, licorice, tobacco,
bacon. Warm and savory, buxom, giving, showy, lush, full of penache./
Rich and right. Well packed and sturdy, but no youthful 02 claret
toughness; this yields to the palate already. I’ve really liked
the 02 Cahors and Madiran wines tasted to date. 16.2. wt031506-13. 04
GOTHAM LANGHORNE CREEK SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Ripe, rich, strong, full textured. Lush, sweet, plum and smoked
sausage aromas./ Palate nice and sweetly fruity too. Full, strong.
Good acidity and texture. This delivers for the price. 16.1. wt031506-14. 04
KASSEBAUM MAGDALENA BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Big punch of full, ripe, singed wood and fruit. Daunting,
almost fearful./ Thick, roasted, strong, fully extracted. Lots of
American oak tones like vanilla and coconut and baking spices. A
brawny lad. 15.5.
Wednesday, March 8, 2006 wt030806-01. 04
KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, E&M BERGER liter
- (AUSTRIA) Full, nostril-swelling and -tingling aroma of yellow
melon and green legumes. Lots of texture and vigorous graining.
Juicy, piquant, vibrant, high-toned, and vinous. More body and substance
than any in the series I can recall./ Yes, more richly textured
than any other vintage. More extract. More satisfying mouthful.
Striking grip and vigor of 04. The previous vintages seem mild by
comparison. 16.1. wt030806-02. 05
VILLA MARIA UNOAKED HAWKES BAY CHARDONNAY
- (NEW ZEALAND) Full bodied and full textured. Vibrantly apple-citrus.
Almost barrel-aged in its richness, but not, of course. Powerful
too./ Richness and power echo on palate. Good acidity and grip.
Well balanced. Fine depth and presence. 15.8. wt030806-03. 04
KUNDE SONOMA VALLEY VIOGNIER - (U.S.)
Seems more like sauvignon blanc than the varietal on the label.
Because of the vigorous, piercing citrus assault on the nostrils.
Viognier flowers and peach aromas form as the wine airs but play
second fiddle to the exaggerated citrus element./ Again, the citric
cut but here assuaged by some viognier glycerol, and viognier aromatic
characteristics are more apparent. Papaya and mango. Something tonic
too. Certainly an off-beat take on the varietal. Well liked by the
group though. 15.8. wt030806-04. 04
LAFOND SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Very enticing thanks to the toast, vanilla, chocolate, and brown
spice oak aromas. Plenty of plush pinot cherry fruit too./ Echoes
on the palate. Cedar note too. Very rich, soft, suave, smooth, and
undeniably seductive. Nice light grip to keep it honest. Well liked
by the group. 16.8. wt030806-05. 04
MORGAN 12 CLONES SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Much more of a Morgan and Monterey take on pinot
noir. More angular, ascetic, tart, reductive. Pinot tart instead
of sweet cherry. Some tar and licorice. Firmer oak. Not very seductive
now but likely to soften and broaden with age./ More vanilla and
ripe cherry aspects on the palate though. Fuller, more generous
and authoritative. Great Monterey fruit acidity. This will have
its day. Even soon with the right food combo. 16.3+. wt030806-06. 02
PEPI CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Nicely
crafted. The oak extras are not blatant, not superimposed. Smoky
oak and attractively herbal merlot aromas./ Smooth vanilla-creme
texture. The fruit is sweet and ripe but not jelly, not Valley.
The oak is attractive. A lovely, vital little number at this price.
15.2. wt030806-07. 02
PEPI CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.)
Again, the nice oak extras, well integrated. Somewhat darker fruit
and firmer frame as is expected of cabernet sauvignon./ Rich vanilla-creme
texture again. A bit sterner, more tannic fruit–that’s cabernet.
Good value too. 15.1. wt030806-08. 02
PEPI CALIFORNIA SHIRAZ - (U.S.) This one,
on the other hand, is pure Valley syrah. Seems they left the oak
out of this rendition./ The fruit is warm and dull, with a green
edge. Just a hint of varietal character. The plainest form of California
syrah. 14.2 wt030806-09. 99
HOGUE GENESIS COLUMBIA VALLEY MERLOT -
(U.S.) Showing some maturity, some bottle bouquet. Black cherry,
plum, smoke, oak, sandalwood, and animal tones. Still rather Pac
Northwest severe in form; hasn’t softened much./ Rich, ripe, sweet,
well developed fruit flavors with oak seasoning and framing. Interesting
to taste an older WA merlot; haven’t had one in quite a while. Still
adequate fruit padding. Lively and fine. Good value on closeout
at half off. 15.9+. wt030806-10. 02
MORGAN COTES DU CROWS MONTEREY RED - (U.S.)
Half each grenache, syrah - Rather raw, reductive, strong. Dull,
muddled, plain, sweetish./ Nothing Rhone-ish about this cuvee, and
nothing particularly varietal. Just red, coastal California wine
with some Monterey narrowness. 14.5. wt030806-11. 03
GRACIA DE CHILE ACONCAGUA VALLEY SYRAH
- (CHILE) Has the savor and power of this warm valley’s wines. Very
large framed, with oak supplying some of the building material.
Delivers a lot of punch./ Not particularly varietal, but plenty
of robust, ripe fruit and oak contributions. Finesse is a word not
heard here. But can’t deny the generosity and mealworthiness. Hearty
winter warmer. 15.4. wt030806-12. 98
VIRGIN HILLS VICTORIA RED - (AUSTRALIA)
Certainly has the darkness and solidity of the vintage. Big and
dense. Sweet, racy black fruits, chocolate, cedar, spices, tobacco,
and eucalyptus./ Darkness, depth, and power. Time has softened it
nicely. On closeout at half off. 15.5. wt030806-13. 04
COTES DU RHONE CAPUCINES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Compact, trim, and refined as
usual. Lovely, cool aromas of violets, black raspberry, cassis,
rosemary, and peppercorn. Bright, vigorous, deep, purple. Sweet
berry creme./ Very 04 bright and brisk. Very sleek and elegant.
Firmer-framed than usual. Somewhat like the 01, but there’s stauncher
material here. Great acid, tannin, grip. Yes, this vintage is recalling
1978 for me–my measuring rod vintage. 16.4+. wt030806-14. 04
COTES DU RHONE HAIE AUX GRIVES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! This is even darker, deeper,
more compact, dense, full, extracted. Really is of Villages material.
Violet toned, reductive, intense. Garrigue nuances come with airing./
Not much aromatic interest on the palate at present, and the tannins,
though fine, are formidable. Great grip and acidity. This really
is 78 deja-vu. Will appreciate more cellar time than the Capucines.
The group was in awe of this wine. 16.6++. wt030806-15. 00
COTES DU RHONE LES LAURENTIDES, DOMAINE GRAMENON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Some rancio sense on the nose
at first, but this fades as the rich, warm, ripe, soft, vanilla-coated
blackberry, black cherry, and plum fruit of 00 wells up to take
over. Manly, Italianate, Fabio./ The palate has no rancio sense
even in the beginning. This wine is wholesome and generous. Not
a lot of bouquet formed yet. The fruit remains fresh enough. What’s
really satisfying is the weight and volume of the wine and its relative
softness. Though it’s not devoid of acidity and tannin. Good value
at its closeout price. 16.2. wt030806-16. 04
CAIRANNE COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES RESERVE DES SEIGNEURS, DOMAINE
DE L’ORATOIRE SAINT MARTIN - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Reduced, as is usual in young wines of this property. Cool, deep,
and purple fruited. Minimalist, whole-bunch fermentation./ Very
compacted; can’t get much third dimension in its present state.
The fruit is dark and vital–Cairanne dark, 04 dark. Nice garrigue
spread. Plenty of grip. Well balanced, well positioned. Undoubtedly
has a fine future. Well liked by the group, which noted that other
Saint Martin vintages and cuvees have been even more severely reduced.
16.4++. wt030806-17. 00
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE MOULIN TACUSSEL
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Warmth, power, dried fruit, and softness
of the vintage. Rustic, ruddy, ripe, maturing. Now gathering some
bouquet. Ripe berry and animal tones. Dark and deep. This vintage
is moving forward faster than 01. Chateauneuf size, majesty./ Commanding
weight and volume on the palate. Rich and ruddy, with dried fruit
flavors and animal nuances. Powerful. A good value to serve with
hearty fare. 16.7.
Wednesday, March 1, 2006 wt030106-01. 04
VAL DI NETO CRITONE, LIBRANDI - (ITALY)
Traditional southern white varietal warmth and generosity, richness
and power, and grilled impression. Soft, broad, and ripe./ Yes,
warm and toasty and rich. With adequate acidity. Whatever the grapes
are, they’re tailor made for this climate and not Gucci imports
like chardonnay. Not a lot of fruit–some lemon–mainly vinous. A
full, satisfying dinner wine. 15.2. wt030106-02. 04
VENETO CAPITEL FOSCARINO, ANSELMI - (ITALY)
The Anselmi pear like take on garganega. And nut, marzipan, orange-chocolate.
Certainly some new oak here too. Full textured. Super-sized Soave,
really./ Nose and palate alike need some aeration, as the oak derivatives
are dominant in the beginning. Smooth and mellow, with some textural
burnish and good framing. 15.6. wt030106-03. 04
BOURGOGNE LES FENELOTTES VIEILLES VIGNES BLANC, HUBERT CHAVY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Vendangee a la main: picked by hand.
Lovely oak–toast and vanilla. Sweet, nicely burnished oak. Citrus,
butterscotch, and grains–Meursault like./ Again the oak toast and
vanilla. Good 04 briskness; some malic here. Oak smooths it over.
Lots of range for the price. Good buy. One impressive Bourgogne.
16.5. wt030106-04. 04
RIESLING RESERVE, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE
ALSACE) Apple, walnut, pretty yellow fruits, and cool, floral fragrances.
Sleek and high-toned./ The palate speaks for riesling’s peachy side.
Here’s a hard, underripe peach, with peel and fuzz as well. Delicious
balance of components. Stylish riesling. 15.7+. wt030106-05. 04
PINOT GRIS CUVEE ROMANUS, LUCIEN ALBRECHT
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Very eager to make its statement, which is 04
unique. with briskness, green apple, and green pear. Nut and cake
frosting too. The more it airs, the more aromatic the apple becomes–some
sort of exotic sport. Almost perfumed./ Again, the aromatic apple
variety is in full force. Rich, properly pinot gris plump, and good.
Solid, ripe, and round, with a racy, spicy edge. Deep and authoritative.
Worth following its evolution. 16.3+. wt030106-06. 04
BRANCOTT RESERVE MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR
- (NEW ZEALAND) Starts out cool and a little pinched, especially
for a reserve. But it quickly plumps up, sweetens up. Gets deeper
and richer. Now it’s fulfilling; a rightful NZ pinot reserve. Cherry,
mint, milk chocolate, oak char./ Palate NZ cool and flowing. Has
substance, class, and appeal. Balance and ease. Commendable. Lovely
mealtime pinot. 16.4. wt030106-07. 02
MERCUREY DOMAINE DE LA CROIX JACQUELET, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Boy, is this a bearish Faiveley and
02 classic. Tight, tight, tight. Sturdy, compact, tough, angular.
But no sense of undernourishment. Just youth. Good weight and depth.
With plenty of aeration come aromas of plum, cherry, currant./ Again,
the total confinement at the beginning. Broad red and black fruit
spectrum coaxed forth by aeration. Good grip. All the parameters
of house, village, and vineyard style at age three. Certainly not
a restaurant wine. This is for Americans who still cellar wines.
3-5+ years. Michel Rolland never stepped onto this producer’s premises.
16.4++. wt030106-08. 03
TERRE DI CHETI SANGIOVESE MEMO, M. ERCOLINO
- (ITALY) Fresh, ripe, primary, straightforward, eager, honest,
heart on sleeve. Tons of red fruits. Sleek, high-toned, vivid fruits./
Sweet and expressive. Palate offers extras in the flower and spice
arenas. This really jazzes it up and adds texture to complex its
simple sweetness. Very generous and tasty. 15.6. wt030106-09. 04
CHIANTI, PALLADIO - (ITALY) Some SO2 to
start. It airs off to show red fruit and fruit framework underneath.
Black fruit, sandalwood, panache./ The palate is bright and free
of sulphur. The fruit shines through, and there’s a lot of material
to this wine for what it is. And what is costs. A big boy, really.
Finally, the touted 04 Tuscan vintage is beginning to reveal its
secrets at the basic level of these youthful releases. 15.5+. wt030106-10. 03
TOSCANA, MONTE ANTICO - (ITALY) Yes! The
vintage is really flattering to this wine. So often the wine is
tight-framed and severe in youth. The 03 has flesh on its bones.
But you still get the classic structure and fine tannin. The style
and sophistication. Dark cherry, mulberry, black tea, anise. A great
Monte Antico./ Yes! The fatness and softness of 03 really gives
this wine a broader and sooner appeal. It’s good now. And there’s
strength, acidity, and tannin for framing and future. Fine intro
to Monte Antico for the uninitiated. 16.0. wt030106-11. 04
BARBERA D’ALBA BRICCO QUATTRO FRATELLI, BOROLI
- (ITALY) Yes! Another Boroli wine that is much more sophisticated
than its price suggests. Polished, deep, and rich, with grip too.
Something old time and something new fashioned rolled into one.
Cherry, blueberry, plum, and black currant. Tar and dark peel extracts
abound./ Smooth on the surface (that’s the new) and deep running,
thick stuff under (that’s the old). Finesse too. Fabulous barbera
for the price. 16.6+. wt030106-12. 03
CIRO CLASSICO, LIBRANDI - (ITALY) This
is the essence of Ciro. This is textbook Ciro. The dried berry,
the dried cherry, and, most important, the dried orange peel. And
the super dried-fruit glycerol that accompanies. Polished, ripe,
warm, savory, bright, lively, plush, big. Plum and blackberry highlights.
Off the charts this vintage./ Rich, chewy dried fruit and rich fruit
pulp. Very fleshy. And nervy too. Wow! 16.5. wt030106-13. 04
ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Super oak extras this vintage–more than in the past. Toast, sandalwood,
bitter chocolate. And the usual dark, intense black cherry and pitch
malbec tones./ Bold and rangy in oak and fruit aspects. Smooth and
modern. Taken to a new degree of international sophistication. Best
and most appealing yet in this series. And a fine value. 16.3. wt030106-14. 03
L DE LYETH SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON -
(U.S.) They’ve got my number here. I’m just a sucker for these Lyeth
reds. Yeah, I know the wood complex likely comes from oak chips
not barrels, but it’s a well crafted application–nice and spicy
and toasty. And the intense, ripe Alexander Valley fruit just soaks
it up. Demonstrative, giving./ Great ALV fruit roast and warmth,
and the oak seasoning continues to entertain. No hidden subtleties,
just all give. Lots of give for the money. 16.0. wt030106-15. 02
BLEASDALE FRANK POTTS LANGHORNE CREEK RED
- (AUSTRALIA) Big, roasted, sweet, powerful. Fine hardwood veneer.
Eucalyptus air. The viscosity of ripe grapes./ Again. Aussie all
the way. Garrulous, large, expressive. Grip, power, and size. Cabernet
tannin. Reserve concentration. 16.6+. wt030106-16. 00
COTES DU RHONE CLOS DE L’HERMITAGE, HENRI DE LANZAC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dense and ripe, with a developing
succulence. Prominent roasted meat and earth./ Full, deep, and chewy.
Rich, round, burnished, mature southern black fruits, plus sandalwood,
leather, woods, garrigue, tobacco, and meat. Lively acidity, fine
depth. 16.4. wt030106-17. 03
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE, DOMAINE DE CRISTIA
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Lovely, spicy, herbal garrigue range, plus
black raspberry. Big, strapping, dense, authoritative. Just classic
Chateauneuf, and as lush, lovely, titillating, expressive, and becoming
as they get./ Sweet and berry-like with fine, spicy garrigue nuances,
licorice, peppercorn, flowers, fine herbes. Very fine-grained tannins
throughout. Undeniable present appeal, plus cellar potential. 17.2+. wt030106-18. 03
FIFE UPLANDS MENDOCINO ZINFANDEL - (U.S.)
Ripe, bold black fruits and classic zin perfume. Very handsome.
Smells like zin, feels like zin. Demonstrates zin goodness, and,
even then, a bit of stoicism./ Ripe, racy, plummy black and red
fruits, and chocolate. Solid and striking. Fine tannin. Lovely all
the way. 16.7+.
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