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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- March, 2005 |
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Wednesday, March 30, 2005 wt033005-01. 2004
KEN FORRESTER STELLENBOSCH CHENIN BLANC
- (SOUTH AFRICA) Certainly full presence here–plumpness, richness,
size, depth. This wine is certainly broad and full in a tactile
sense. Fresh varietal aromas come with airing, melon and lime for
sure, and extras like wild red fruits and pumpkin./ Yes, there’s
a lot of volume here–what the Germans would call ‘fulle’. Mouthfeel
and mouthful. And a tingly, almost spritzy citrus and mineral freshness
and zestiness. Plenty of body and strength; more than Loire chenin.
An awesome effort with Cape chenin blanc; best I’ve tasted. Great
dinner wine. 16.3. wt033005-02. 2004
NAUTILUS MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(NEW ZEALAND) Fresh, zesty, precise, focused, and fine gooseberry
aroma. Taut, sleek, racy, pungent grass, grapefruit, mineral dust.
This is the way I like sauvignon!/ Crisp and racy. Less sweet and
tender than many NZ sauvignons. I like that. Racy and refreshing.
16.4. wt033005-03. 2004
PALLISER MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(NEW ZEALAND) Ripe and sweetish melon and tropical fruits. Some
grass-grapefruit cut./ Almost Germanic for its ripe, tropical fruit.
Zingy edge, soft center; like filled hard candy. Lacks some of the
buoyancy of previous vintages. But maybe it’s still too young. Has
a little H2S to lose. When that’s passed, maybe it will show more
vigor. 15.6+? wt033005-04. 2004
BOSCHENDAL GRAND CUVEE STELLENBOSCH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Full fruit and power. Some oak in the
background. Smoky-toasty. Nut and grain nuances./ A lot of body
and strength. Alcohol gives framework that the mild acidity cannot.
Not without varietal tang (lemon, grapefruit) and charm though.
A dinner sauvignon, not an aperitif or picnic wine. 15.6. wt033005-05. 2003
CHABLIS, LOUIS MICHEL - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Striking. Very steely, flinty. Lovely briskness, clarity, and tension
of Chablis chardonnay. Rich 03 fruit under it all. Apple and ripe
lemon./ Full, and chalk-saturated. Broad and powerful. Big terroir
statement. The biggest and best Michel village Chablis I’ve tasted
since the 1996. 16.8+. wt033005-06. 2003
CHABLIS MONTEE DE TONNERRE 1ER CRU, LOUIS MICHEL - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Big, big, big. Full of Montee de
Tonnerre body, heft, texture. So textured and complex I’d swear
it was barrel aged. But that’s impossible at Michel’s cellar./ Yes,
a mouthful! A whopper! Alcohol and extract fill in for what acidity
it lacks. Mr. Big. Grand Cru stature. 17.2+. wt033005-07. 2003
RULLY RABOURCE 1ER CRU, VINCENT GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fine 03 power and mass. Explosive ripe-apple
and orange fruit bouquet. Great oak seasonings that the massive,
ripe fruit just sucks up. This wine digests cellulose like a termite!/
Yes, explosive, vigorous, deep. Buttered nuts and orange flavors.
Very full-textured. Power and richness. Good acidity, and oak tannin
too. Huge Rully! 16.9+. wt033005-08. 2003
CHIANTI PUTTO, SAN FABIANO - (ITALY) Very
tight and quiet for 03. Peel and stem extracts form a really tight
grip. Promising though. With airing, notions of cranberry, smoke,
leather./ Sleek, lean musculature of a long-distance runner. Tart
red fruits and hints of tar and anise. Good material here. It’s
unusual to find such an ageworthy wine in this price range. I have
confidence in its future. 14.7++. wt033005-09. 2003
BROUILLY GRAND CRU, CHATEAU DE LA CHAIZE
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Wow! What extreme aromas! Raspberry, strawberry,
spices. Ripe fruits with lovely, rounded forms./ Distinctive punch
of raspberry and blueberry fruit flavors. Penetrating fruit acidity.
Good power. Sexy and generous all the way. 15.7. wt033005-10. 2001
POMMARD JAROLLIERES 1ER CRU, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Yow! Big-scaled and firm Pommard, with cassis,
licorice, , oak char, struck-flint, and smoked-meat tones. The power
and animal vigor one expects of a fine Pommard./ Big, solid black
fruits. Power-packed, muscular, commanding. And promising. 16.5++. wt033005-11. 2000
CHATEAU PLAISANCE CUVEE TRADITION, 1ERES COTES DE BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Ripe fruit, spices, leather, light
oak. Deep aromas. Well extracted. Part of the nose shows reduction
still (spring flowers, purple fruit); another part suggests some
bouquet evolution./ Yes, on the palate too both rich and cool. Well
balanced. Tres claret. Fine, chewy tannins. A very good representative
of its appellation and vintage. I’ve liked this in the past. It’s
coming along nicely. 16.0+. wt033005-12. 2000
LOUIS MARTINI RESERVE ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Warm, full, powerful Alexander Valley style
of cabernet. Cassis, blackberry, wood spices. Dense, ripe, and lovely.
Well stuffed for an 00./ Good acidity here too. Cassis, chocolate,
oak sasonings, and roasted fruit. I liked this at the Tasters Guild
prizewinners revue and like it again now. 16.6+. wt033005-13. 2002
NORTON RESERVE MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Great sweet oak spices and solid, dark malbec fruit. Thick, ripe,
dense./ Rich and ripe flavors of chocolate and coffee and oak. Powerful.
Some reductive fruit tones still. A modern wine with a little more
winery influence than I like, but I can certainly see the appeal
to many of today’s influential critics. 15.2+. wt033005-14. 2003
MINERVOIS GRAND TRADITION, CHATEAU DU DONJON
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Roasted black fruits, garrigue, panettone.
Handsome, lively, elegant, forward./ Black and red raspberries,
garrigue, cedar, spices. Open-hearted, lively. An eager puppy. Great
acidity, fine race and depth. Good power, warmth, body. 15.8. wt033005-15. 2002
HESS ARTEZIN CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.)
Rich and sexy. Very ripe fruit and full American oak. Big, and loaded
with luscious black fruits. Has a cool side too–menthol–and haunting
reserve./ Almost zinfandel-port like in its ripeness, power, and
tannins. A little rugged and forceful still. Will be fun to follow.
Or use now with fiery dishes. 15.0+.
Wednesday, March 23, 2005 wt032305-01. 2003
MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, MARQUIS DE GOULAINE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh, and full of spring aromas of
new life. Charming tenderness of good muscadet. Nice sur-lie freshness.
Good minerality./ Good, fresh, cool qualities of sea breeze, wet
gravel, and vernal pools. Ideal Muscadet. A measuring rod. 15.8. wt032305-02. 2004
LONG FLAT WHITE SE AUSTRALIA SEMILLON-SAUVIGNON BLANC - (AUSTRALIA) Full and fresh. Much fresher, of course,
than the 2002 tasted last fall. That had more of semillon’s encompassing
roundness. Semillon speaks clearly here too though. Apple and melon.
Figgy richness, lemon freshness, dash of mint. And body./ On the
palate, there’s a measure of sauvignon grass and grapefruit. But
here too it’s mostly semillon and its apple custard flavor. This
one’s going to fill out nicely like the 2002. No need to age though;
it’s already a very versatile mealtime selection. Nice value. 15.6+. wt032305-03. 2003
YVON MAU YVECOURT, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Brisk, nervy sauvignon blanc, with a dense, compact semillon
core./ Cool and tart sauvignon up front, with some semillon fatness
behind. Agreeable, versatile table wine. Will fill out more over
the coming months. 14.3+. wt032305-04. 2003
TOURAINE SAUVIGNON, DOMAINE DE LA CHARMOISE
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh, full blast of gooseberry. Floral, perfumed,
inviting. The sweet, ripe fruit of 03 tinged with citrus and minerality./
Ripe, scented, and pretty in the mouth. Mild acidity this vintage.
Generous, if atypical at this stage. Likely to develop more flavor
and flair over the coming months. 14.8+. wt032305-05. 2003
VOUVRAY, DIDIER CHAMPALOU - (FRANCE LOIRE)
Quince, golden delicious apple, melon, loquat, and pear aromas.
Ripe and full in 03, but with enticing vigor too.. Calcaire’s ventilation
and cut./ Smooth and seamless, the acidity still coated with honeyed
fruit. Sec tendre. Fine depth. A lot of pleasure-giving capacity
now; more complexity to come. 15.7+. wt032305-06. 2002
CHATEAU TIMBERLAY, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Full and fragrant. Red and black currants, pie
cherry. Wisp of violets. Sweet and plentiful fruit. Tobacco and
brett-dekk complex./ Sweet fruit and animal flavors. The right levels
of acidity and astringency at this stage. This really pumps out
the juice. Good alcohol volume for body. A surprisingly ripe, full,
satisfying 02 Right Bank claret. Far superior to the 01. 15.5+. wt032305-07. 2001
PUGLIA NEGROAMARO-CABERNET, TORMARESCA
- (ITALY) Cool for the region. 01 and varietals speaking. Tar, anise,
and black fruit on the nose. Vigorous, powerful./ Good mouthful
of flavors and textures. Great 01 acidity. Young, but already generous.
15.6+. wt032305-08. 2003
CHIANTI, TOSCOLO - (ITALY) Discreet, with
a ripe, soft, sweet, spicy raspberry lilt and patina of grilled
herbs./ Quite scented in the mouth, with a racy, sleek fruit statement
and a lot of style. 14.6. wt032305-09. 2001
CHIANTI CLASSICO, TOSCOLO - (ITALY) Very
dark fruit of 01. Dense, tough, and somewhat withdrawn still. But
there are ripe, sweet aromas of dried fruits and nuts beginning
to emerge../ Good 01 race. Deep and well-textured, with ample tannins
yet. This will need some time to assuage its tannins and develop
its flavors. 15.0+. wt032305-10. 1999
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, TOSCOLO - (ITALY)
Clearly more mature both from time in bottle and in seasoned wood.
Briary blackberry and wild cherry notes./ Ripe, rich, and ruddy
from age in wood. Good acidity of the vintage. Some tannin to shed
still. 15.3. wt032305-11. 2001
SEBASTIANI SONOMA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet,
ripe, black, berry fruits and sweet American oak. Good 01 race,
acidity./ Vanilla, berry creme, toast. Good power. Delicious balance
of the vintage. A good, lusty, traditional Sonoma zin classic. 16.0. wt032305-12. 2002
NAPA WINE COMPANY NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Napa zinfandel elegance stands out. Eau-de-vie fruit purity.
French oak? Zinfandel Refined. A lot of charm and class./ Again,
sleek, polished, refined, balanced, delicious Napa style of zinfandel.
Just right. 16.8.
Wednesday, March 16, 2005 wt031605-01. 2004
NOBILO MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW
ZEALAND) Mild, mellow, unrestrained, accurate. Pointed grapefruit,
gooseberry, capsicum, and cool pear. Should be popular./ Racy, tangy,
juicy. Good, sweet fruit filling. Exotic citrus overtones. 15.8. wt031605-02. 2004
NEPENTHE ADELAIDE HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (AUSTRALIA) Ripe citrus aroma–orange pulp and peel. Also peach,
pear, avocado. The warmer, softer, broader Aussie style of sauvignon.
More alcohol./ Yes, riper and much stronger. Good gooseberry and
lemon-drop flavor intensity. Moderate acidity coated with glycerol.
For a mealtime, rather than aperitif, role because of its body and
strength. 15.6. wt031605-03. 2003
SANTA BARBARA WINERY SANTA BARBARA CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Warm and savory fruit; apple, lemon curd, papaya. Toast,
grain, and butterscotch barrel-aged aromas. Crisp south Central
Coast edge. Oak not overdone./ Handsome, bountiful palate. Plenty
of oak and sweet, ripe fruit. Quite powerful. Good depth. Good value.
15.7. wt031605-04. 2002
DEHLINGER UNFILTERED RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Heaps o’ vanilla and cream. Peach, pear, loquat,
smoke. Lees, malo, wood. Won’t be denied./ Oak, nut, buttercream.
Dense, rich in glycerol and malolactic smoothness. Good acidity
and framing. 16.4. wt031605-05. 2003
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES CHATEAU DE VARENNES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Young, with very bright berry rising,
banana fading. Lively and cool, as well as 03 intense. Deep-penetrating
and persistent aromas./ Rich and flavorful. Creamy, spicy, nervy.
Very mouthfilling, prolonged flavors and textures. As grand and
well balanced a mouthful of Beaujolais Villages as one could want.
16.3. wt031605-06. 2003
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, DOMAINE MANOIR DU CARRA
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) (Unfiltered) - Different. Redder fruit; not
purple, not white. No Duboeuf banana. More power. Less whole-bunch
fermentation, more standard./ 03 sweetness and strength. Good acidity.
Dusting of fine, chewy tannins. More of a conventional table wine
than the fresh, vigorous Duboeuf. Different, and equally valid,
expression of the special qualities of 2003 Beaujolais. 16.0+. wt031605-07. 2002
CROSSPOINT MONTEREY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
A pleasant surprise. Rich and full and sweet pinot aroma. Spicy,
smoky cherry and meat. Pleva-burger. Generous./ Add tea, strawberry,
mocha, and oak savor on the palate. Good peel astringency. Good
body and richness. Serious, even ageworthy. 15.9. wt031605-08. 2003
LANGHE ANNA, BOROLI - (ITALY) Ripe and
fruity. Maraschino, bergamot, deep vinosity. Solid, subtly smoky
oak and burnished black fruits. Plenty of up-front allure, with
plenty of reserve too./ Good nebbiolo-like character. Chewy tannin.
Rich glycerol and body. Good acidity. A deep, balanced, and generous
03, engaging as well as authoritative. Commendable Piemonte value.
European wine values like this are getting harder to find. 16.4+. wt031605-09. 2001
SUMMERLAND SANTA BARBARA MERLOT - (U.S.)
Cool-climate herb-and-olive merlot. Big, intense red and black fruits.
Some oak./ Oak, herb, tobacco, coffee, and animal tones. Sweat and
sandalwood. Some astringency. Seems both region and winery are more
adept at Burgundy varietals than Bordeaux. 14.7. wt031605-10. 2002
LOUIS MARTINI SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Lovely, nutty, sweet oak and ripe, suave, enticing, fresh-crushed
Sonoma fruit. Power, brett, build, balance. Exciting./ The luscious,
forthcoming fruit of 02, plus good frame and building material.
Swelling fruit mass has real palate presence Good tannin, good balance.
Like the 01, a top notch value. This will appreciate with time.
16.6+. wt031605-11. 2002
LUNA NAPA VALLEY SANGIOVESE - (U.S.) Green
cherry sangiovese nose. Some oak. Rich. Not as focused as the 01./
Rich, with good acidity too. One of the fuller California sangioveses.
Some oak vanilla. Ripe notes of cocoa and dark chocolate, and tangy
orange-peel aspects. A lot of play. Well crafted. 16.1. wt031605-12. 2001
COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES COLUMBIA VALLEY SYRAH - (U.S.) Cool Pac NW red with genuine syrah notes of
black raspberry, peppercorn, flowers, and meat./ Cool and well delineated
varietal character. The oak needs a little time to settle in. The
good, ripe, bountiful fruit will soak it up over the coming months.
15.1+. wt031605-13. CAGNINA
DI ROMAGNA, CAMAURO - (ITALY) Very warm,
luscious raspberry and cherry aromas, cooked down./ Sweet and syrupy.
Barely enough acid. A pleasant confection. Use in place of Mogen
David Concord. 14.6. wt031605-14. 2002
NIERSTEINER RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB, VON HEYL - (GERMANY) Very racy, stony, authoritative 02. Sweet
orange peel–a Niersteiner lower-site characteristic. Plus peach
and pineapple. Tangy./ Yes, tangy and citric. Multi-faceted and
generous. One of the raciest Niersteiners I’ve tasted. Feinherb
style. Clear, crisp, bright. Made for food. 16.2. wt031605-15. 2003
NIERSTEINER BRUCKCHEN RIESLING KABINETT, J&H STRUB - (GERMANY) Sweet orange and grain aromas. 03's explicit
ripeness, and plenty of extract grip to balance the sweetness./
Sweet and sassy. The acidity is still coated, but the minerality
gives a racy edge and nice, tingly quality. To follow. 16.4+. wt031605-16. 2003
NIERSTEINER PATERBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, J&H STRUB - (GERMANY) Fuller. Pungent vanilla, honey, sweet corn,
tangerine peel, and flowers aromas. Lots of verve./ Fully spatlese
sweet, but with good acidity, delineation, and lots of dry extract,
lots of solid material to grip the sweetness. Great volume, billowing
bouquet. Great potential. This is full, deep, authoritative, loaded.
17.0+. wt031605-17. 2004
MOSCATO D’ASTI LA SERRA, DI GRESY - (ITALY)
Perfumed, intense, spritzy, lively. Lime, flowers, tropics, cologne.
Nice./ Sweet, but light on its feet thanks to low alcohol. Adequate
acidity. Creamy, frothy mousse. Good flavor range and focus. This
needs a little time to settle down, to compose itself. 15.8+. wt031605-18. 2003
CHATEAU HALLET, SAUTERNES half bottle
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) (Ch du Gravas) - Ripe and generous semillon
pineapple, apricot, and coconut. No botrytis to speak of. 03 ripeness./
Very ripe and sweet, caramelly, fat and round. Very 03. The acidity
is coated but evident. Good strength and balance. This will broaden,
fill out. 15.3++.
Wednesday, March 9, 2005 wt030905-01. 03
MCMANIS FAMILY RIVER JUNCTION CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Good, rich, ripe chardonnay fruit and a classy kiss of
oak–not of the blatant chips sort. Vanilla, nut, butterscotch, and
toast./ Rich and round oak vanilla and toffee, and ripe, persistent
fruit flavors. Creamy, brassy malolactic fatness. Good minerally
structure. Typical McManis, neither Valley nor Coastal. Rides the
divide. Good balance, good value. 15.5. wt030905-02. 03
SAINT AUBIN LES CHARMOIS, BERNARD MOREY
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Deep-woven oak, smoke, toast, nut. Ripe tropical
and apple-citrus fruit./ Ripe and rich and soft. Layers of fruits,
toasty oak, and roasted grains. Wood tannin, mineral extract, Saint
Aubin calcaire, and alcohol lend the structure it would otherwise
lack because of 2003's mild acidity. One big, powerful Saint Aubin.
16.8+. wt030905-03. 03
PULIGNY MONTRACHET, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) More-ish. Full nut, grain, apple, and calcaire Puligny.
Very bright, aloof, sleek, and cool; very Puligny./ Peachy richness
of ‘03, plus exceptional acidity and form for the vintage. Fine
Puligny calcaire ventilation. Classy, stylish, deep, well balanced.
17.3+. wt030905-04. 03
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET VIEILLES VIGNES, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Creamier, peachier, more Chassagne
plushness. Good oak coated with Chassagne peaches-and-cream. Oak
spiciness comes through to add savor. With aeration, a broader complex
of aromas: green apple, pear, grapefruit, orange, lemon rind, grain,
rose petal. Wow!/ ‘03 rich, old vines intense, and the always-succulent
nature of this cuvee, consistently one of my favorites from Morey.
Good strength for structure. Richly textured, gracious, very lovely.
17.2+. wt030905-05. 03
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET MORGEOT 1ER CRU, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) More compact, discreet, refined,
noble. Custard apple, pear, lemon, minerals. Vanilla and nut. Firm,
fine oak befitting a Premier Cru./ Palate confirms oak and fruit
firmness. A young, compact wine still. Fine focus, good acidty.
The silky texture and race of a Premier Cru. Surprisingly, not as
custardy as some of Morey’s past Morgeot vintages. Needs time. 17.5+. wt030905-6. 01
ERRAZURIZ CURICO VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE)
Good, warm, ripe, mature merlot aromas of olive and tea./ Palate
adds animal aspects of mature merlot: barnyard and leather. Ripe
fruit, countered by good ‘01 acidity. Rich and generous. Similar
to some ripe-vintage Right Bank clarets. A bargain, obviously. 15.2. wt030905-7. HMR
REX GOLIATH CENTRAL COAST MERLOT - (U.S.)
Warm, fleshy fruit with a touch anchovy suggest Valley origins.
Some H2S yet. Then cool, racy, tea, olive, black raspberry, and
tart cherry aromas state Central Coast, not Valley./ Sweet, ripe,
generous, demonstrative fruit. Chocolate covered cherry and creme.
Seductive. But retains some cool, aloof airs too. Good acidity,
surprising depth. Some reductive notes. Better by summer. 15.5+. wt030905-8. 00
FITOU, DOMAINE ROLLAND - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Smooth, mellow, ripe 2000 style and maturity. White pepper, garrigue,
earth, stems, citron/ Warm and meaty, rich and generous. Ripe strawberry
and cherry. Well balanced by nervy acidity and fine tannin. Very
juicy, spicy, and flavorful. In summation, very Fitou. 15.6. wt030905-9. 02
NUITS SAINT GEORGES CHARMOTTE, LIGER-BELAIR
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Deep, cool plum and peel aromas of Nuits Saint
Georges. Also cherry, cocoa, bitter chocolate, bacon. 2002 finesse,
stately bearing./ Lively 2002 acidity and crunchy, juicy fruit.
Great form, discretion. Fine lines. Tensile, nervous. Real depth
and promise. A keeper for sure. Will sweeten and swell up with bottle
age. 17.1+. wt030905-10. 02
VOSNE ROMANEE AUX REAS, LIGER-BELAIR -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Charm and Byzantine exotica of Vosne–not gushy;
measured. Oriental spices and sandalwood. Plumper and riper than
the Nuits. More power, more punch. Fine oak seasonings. Nice 2002
highly focused fruit and terroir lines. Poised./ Both rich and cool.
Great 2002 and Vosne style, race, fine-boned structure. Fine-grained
tannin. A wine of class and promise. These 2002s are so like the
memorable 1985s. 17.5+. wt030905-11. 00
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, CASTELLO DI QUERCETO
- (ITALY) Ripe and well positioned to gather more bouquet. Plum,
dried cherry, black olive, earth. Shows riserva-style age in barrels,
thankfully not all new. An harmonious presentation./ 2000 ripeness,
with fine tannins and acidity. Subtle oak spices and exotic perfumes
make for good complexity. Chewy texture. This will develop smoothness
and savor nicely. I wasn’t high on the early 2000 releases, but
as we’ve moved on to the better stuff, especially the riservas,
the vintage’s stock is rising in my opinion. I think I prefer this
one to the 1999. 16.2+. wt030905-12. 03
TRAPICHE MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Bright, fresh, juicy, dark cherry fruit of malbec. Nice warmth./
Fine, fine, perfumed flavors of cherry, spices, and flowers. Crisp,
well balanced finish. Honest, straightforward, easy drinking. Neat
stuff. Clearly a value. 15.5. wt030905-13. 03
MCMANIS FAMILY RIVER JUNCTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Very bright blackberry and black currant fruit.
Cool and racy. Light vanilla and coconut aromas of American oak./
Plump and sweetly fruity, exotic and seductive. Framboise and chocolate.
Rides the divide between Valley and Coastal as usual. I’m not so
sure this River Junction region doesn’t have better potential than
Lodi. 15.6. wt030905-14. 01
PETER LEHMANN BAROSSA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (AUSTRALIA) Dark berry-currant cabernet nature. Warm, ruddy, powerful,
effusive Barossa 2001 style. Cooled by eucalyptus, menthol, and
cassis airs. Good oak seasonings. This is evolving, starting to
earn a bottle bouquet savor./ Again, the warmth and power of 2001,
Barossa, barrel and bottle age. Animal nuances forming. Not sure
there’s enough flesh on the bones to prolong the aging process.
May skew toward too much raw power, heat. 15.8. wt030905-15. 04
MOSCATO D’ASTI, BRICCO RIELLA - (ITALY)
All froth and foam and tropical fruit-flower perfumes. Young. Right
out of the box./ Very sweet–syrupy even. Wait ‘til summer so it
can settle down. All fun. Not to be taken seriously. Perhaps a little
too frivolous even for this DOC. 15.7+. wt030905-16. 03
MEDDERSHEIMER RHEINGRAFENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, HEXAMER - (GERMANY) Wild, penetrating, nostril swelling, palpable
aromas of citrus peel, tonic, ripe grains, sweetmeal, peach, and
apricot. Fabulously attention-grabbing./ Full richness of spatlese
still coating its framework. At the finish though, you get to the
inner workings. The grip, The upper Nahe race, the lingering flavors
and textures. Yes, great length and expressiveness here. Thoroughly
entertaining. 17.1+. wt030905-17. 03
NORHEIMER KIRSCHHECK RIESLING SPATLESE, HERMANN DONNHOFF - (GERMANY) Yow! Tensile, nervous, high-toned, gripping.
Great finesse, great class. All about discretion, reserve, refinement.
Scents of loquat, hard pear, and aromatic apple varieties–several./
Sooo finely textured, etched. Still largely coated with 2003 fatness,
but some crispness shows. Very fine lines, like a steel engraving.
Commanding depth. Give it the time in bottle it deserves. 17.6+.
Wednesday, March 2, 2005 wt030205-01. 2004
BLACK STAR FARMS ARCTUROS LATE HARVEST LEELANAU PENINSULA RIESLING - (U.S.) A lot of fullness to the scent. No so much aromatically.
It’s still shy aromatically and needs swirling, airing, coaxing.
But right from the start it fills the nostrils with richness, strength,
mass. All the result of late harvest, without the late harvest sugariness./
Thick on the palate too. Full and strong. Good acidity. Short on
flavor at first, but showing a peach-apricot richness with warming.
This is young and unformed yet. I like its poise and promise. Well
crafted. Check it out again this summer. 16.0+. wt030205-02. 2003
KINHEIMER ROSENBERG RIESLING KABINETT, JACOBY-MATHY - (GERMANY) Very bright nose of apple, citrus pulp, and
citrus rind. Crisp for an ‘03. Floral highlights emerge. A very
special ‘03, both brisk and rich. Dense, explosive, penetrating,
tingly. In the nostrils, feels as well as aromas./ Again, there’s
the sweetness and crispness both. Both nectar and acid in spades,
and, in balance. Forceful, insistent, voluminous. But not without
refinement, graces. One of the best Kinheimer kabinetts we’ve tasted.
Good future projected. 16.8+. wt030205-03. 2003
URZIGER WURZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT, J-J CHRISTOFFEL - (GERMANY) Bright lemon drop aroma to open. Fuller,
deeper, riper notions of pineapple and tropics follow. And ‘woody’
notes of husk and peel. Also the walnut aroma of a slate-born Mosel.
Tingly mineral extract. Complex, to say the least./ Rich, robust,
full, deep flavors and textures. Full in all respects. That ‘03
fatness, and the acid to cut through it. Power, structure, length,
reserve. Worth the premium. Truly one of the great Mosel estates.
17.2+. wt030205-04. 2003
ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPATLESE, MEULENHOF
- (GERMANY) Tingly green-apple malic acid even in extra-ripe 2003.
Walnut husk slate-born nose. Plus tangerine and peel. Full, fresh,
and floral./ Rich. Very, very full in the Erden style. Erden slate
and earth. Extra sweetness of spatlese coats its ample extract.
Tremendous depth. Let’s face it, this is huge! And very young. 17.0+. wt030205-05. 2003
CAMELOT CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Good, sweet, and accurate pinot aromas of cherry and plum. And plum-peel
astringency to keep the fruit sweetness honest./ Yes, it’s both
sweet and astringent. Good craftsmanship shown here, good yin-yang.
Varietal character, body, and balance. A fine–perhaps unmatched–value
in California pinot noir. 15.2. wt030205-06. 2003
BERINGER NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Sweet oak and fruit. Cherry and dark chocolate. Plump and polished./
That rich Beringer fruit style, bright, tangy, lively. Well measured
oak. Good acidity. Young, strong, and a little hot still. Will settle
down. 15.0+. wt030205-07. 2003
CHATEAU ST JEAN SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Big, firm fruit and oak. Maraschino, panettone, strawberry, framboise,
milk chocolate./ Sweet fruit and oak on palate. Plenty of pinot
personality and charm. Good acidity. Sonoma warmth. 15.8+. wt030205-08. 2003
DAVID BRUCE DAVID & GOLIATH CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Sweet, bright, youthfully vibrant, and genuine
pinot. Deep pinot aromas of cherry and tea. Candied orange peel
nuance. This is fine. And it puts a smile on my face./ Full flavored.
Fine acidity, richness, texture, balance. Glycerin coating too.
Round and buxom. Great mouthful of elegant, enticing pinot flavor
and sweetness. And, there’s more to come. Bruce’s best CC pinot
yet. 16.4+. wt030205-09. 2003
CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO RAPEL VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Earthy CyT style. Sweet fruit, thoroughly ripe.
Exceptionally ripe in a vintage keyed to finesse rather than ripeness.
Or do I have it wrong? More and more of these later-release ‘03s
are coming up extra ripe./ Strong, sweet, ripe, tarry. Big and young.
Gangly yet. 14.5+. wt030205-10. 2002
FELIPE RUTINI LA CONSULTA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Great oak and sweet black cherry, tea, bitters, perique tobacco,
tar, and licorice malbec expression. Definitive Argentine malbec,
embellished with the fine oak extras it deserves. A great, textbook
Argentine malbec./ Powerful, gripping, saturated. Full oak and full
fruit in balance. This delivers! 16.8+. wt030205-11. 2002
CASA LAPOSTOLLE CUVEE ALEXANDRE APALTA VINEYARD COLCHAGUA VINEYARD
CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Sweet fruit
and full oak. Really fine, ripe, seductive fruit for the vintage.
Cream of the Crop, no doubt. Maraschino, panettone, candy corn./
Nice, spicy oak flavors. On the palate, the fruit shows less ripe.
It’s a little ‘02 lean and tart. The tannins are fine and melted
though. An overachiever for the vintage, but not one of the best
Alexandre cabernets. 16.1. wt030205-12. 2003
SALENTO PRIMITIVO, CANTELE - (ITALY) Exceptionally
cool and well framed for such a warm vintage. No excessive heat,
alcohol, ripeness. Tar, anise, and condensed but not cooked fruit./
Starts cool, high toned, and a little reduced even. Opens to spicy
and warm southern fruit. Throughout, there’s composure. Euro styling
in a warm setting. Good value. 15.7. wt030205-13. 1998
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DE L’ESPIGOUETTE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) A true ‘98. Deep garrigue, tar,
raspberry liqueur, and ripe, sun-dried black fruits. Very concentrated,
very powerful. A true ‘98./ Yes, big, rich, ripe, powerful, tarry,
concentrated. Loaded. Shall I say it again? A true ‘98. 16.4+. wt030205-14. 2001
VACQUEYRAS L’AUTHENTIQUE, SELECTION DU SOMMELIER, LES VINS DU TROUBADOUR - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bright, cool, high-toned ‘01
style. Tight and finely knit. Deep and elegant./ Grip, form, finesse.
‘01 all the way. A keeper. 16.2+. (The next day it became creamier,
more luscious.) wt030205-15. 2003
VALENTIN BIANCHI ELSA SAN RAFAEL SYRAH
- (ARGENTINA) Dark and bright. Well etched, well defined syrah.
Raspberry, black pepper, hints of lavender and bacon–all the northern
Rhone syrah goodies./ Great acidity, fine texture. Less talkative
on the palate than on the nose, but surely genuine. Not the anonymous
big red wine that is so much American syrah. Fine tannin. 15.9+. wt030205-16. 2002
CARMEN RESERVE MAIPO VALLEY SHIRAZ - (CHILE)
Rich and warm and ripe and easy. Good power behind a lush, generous,
barrel-mellowed reserve style of presentation. Suggestions of white
fruit as well as red. Some viognier ‘a la Cote Rotie’?/ The prerequisite
spicy oak of a reserve, and surely reserve concentration of fruit.
The palate betrays some of that 2002 leanness. Nonetheless, selection
and elevage have produced a balanced and rewarding mouthful of wine.
I don’t really mind the lack of varietal character. 15.7+. wt030205-17. 2002
PETER LEHMANN BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ -
(AUSTRALIA) Dark color./ The usual Lehmann delivery of good oak
and Barossa presentation of sweet, warm, lush fruit. The keynote
though is 2002's tempering of Lehmann and Barossa exaggerations.
Overall, this is unusually cool, calm, and composed. Measured. Cool
airs of eucalyptus, angostura, and orange peel./ Again, well modulated,
balanced. No heat. And the oak presents no overkill. Very flavorful.
Lovely sweet, cool cassis. Great acidity, fine tannin. Long, lingering,
fruity, and flavorful aftertaste. My favorite Lehmann shiraz to
date. 16.5+. wt030205-18. 2002
D’ARENBERG THE FOOTBOLT MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Dark, dense, ripe, tarry, loaded. Aromas of vanilla
and berry creme, and of pomegranate./ Ripe and sweet, and sassy.
Balances of fruit sweetness and acidity, fruit and oak aromatics.
Well managed alcohol strength. Generous, and ready for the table,
though it will evolve nicely for several years more thanks to size,
structure, and balance. 16.6+.
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