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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- July, 2008
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Wednesday, July 30, 2008 WT073008-01. 06 SANCERRE, DOMAINE FRANCK MILLET - (FRANCE LOIRE) Good 05 Sancerre nose featuring ripe stone fruits and plenty of citrus tanginess as a foil. Size, balance, and plenty of stamina. Wow! That great grip of 06. Lots of mineral strength./ Yes, this is huge, gripping, but also balanced. Fine acidity and tangy vigor. Well liked by the group. Good price. 16.8. WT073008-02. 07 SANCERRE, HIPPOLYTE REVERDY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh, green grapes, green apple, citrus, gooseberry. Brisk, taut, steely. Firm mineral brace. The usual Reverdy wonders./ Alert, alive, well textured, vigorous. Tangy, stimulating, ripe acidity and mineral savor. I love the freshness of the 07s in youth. Also enjoyed by the group. 17.0+. WT073008-03. 06 COTES DE THONGUE VIOGNIER, DOMAINE DE MONT AURIOL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Citrus, passion fruit, guava. Hint of quince, and nice honeysuckle elements too./ Aging gracefully. Full tropics, ripe fruit richness. Racy too. 15.3. WT073008-04. 07 EDELZWICKER FRIAND D’ALSACE, WOLFBERGER liter - (FRANCE ALSACE) The gewurz rose-lychee is there. Rose hip tea. A pronounced melon tone, like canteloupe. I guess that’s pinot gris. Good gewurz and pinot gris heft./ Melon and rose. Unique and attractive edelzwicker flavor set. Good strength supports its body. 07 shows its come-hither fruit side. Nice acidity, and cleansing astringency at the finale. 16.2+. WT073008-05. 07 EAGLE’S ROCK PIEDRA DEL AGUILA MENDOZA MALBEC ROSE - (ARGENTINA) From Uco. Cherry Kool Aid and bread rind aromas. Touch of bell pepper./ Full, heavy, dark-fruited rose. Quite heady too. Peel flavors and some tannins. A broad rose, not particularly refreshing. Needs cooler weather and hearty fare. 14.5. WT073008-06. 07 GRAYSON CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Smoky peels and cherry pinot. Raspberry too. California softness, forgiveness./ Rich. Good varietal flavor. Adequate acidity. A smooth, tailored approach. 15.3. WT073008-07. 05 OC CABERNET SAUVIGNON, DOMAINE DE LA TOUR BOISEE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very ripe currants. Raisiny Med cabernet. Large./ Rich in dark, dry-roasted fruit. Very dark fruited indeed–speaks cabernet. Intense and viscous. Liked by the group. 15.7. WT073008-08. 06 35 DEGREES SOUTH RESERVE CENTRAL VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Sweet, almost smoky fruit. More currant and pomegranate than cherry. Insistent. Quite rocky in the mineral sense./ Shows a lush fruit sheen on the surface, gritty rusticity beneath, and some bitterness at the end. 15.1. WT073008-09. 05 WILLIAM FEVRE GRAN CUVEE MAIPO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Lots of sweet black currant compote. Reserve intensity. Really packed. Baking spices./ Rich and powerful. In tune with previous experiences here. A December wine, not a July wine. 16.2. WT073008-10. 06 MINERVOIS, DOMAINE DE LA TOUR BOISEE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very ripe, even raisiny. Dark-berried and exotically spicy–warm spices./ Warm spices, berries, dried fruit, burnt orange peel. Popular with the group. 15.8. WT073008-11. 07 PRINCIPAUTE D’ORANGE, DOMAINE LE GRAND DESTRE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Gold Medal - Paris. Dark and plummy, creamy, spicy. Aromatic barks and peels extract. Like most 06 Rhones to date, just the right measure of fruit ripeness, composition./ Candied, spiced plums and cherries. Citron. Rich, substantial, meaty, glycerined, powerful, complete. One of the best in the series. 16.2+. WT073008-12. 06 COTEAUX DE PEYRIAC CARIGNAN, DOMAINE DE LA TOUR BOISEE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Inky color./ Ripe, roti, powerful, dark, framed./ Rich and sprawling. Large in all respects. Carignan rusticity, ruggedness. Food-worthy. 15.5. WT073008-13. 06 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE DE LA HAIE AUX GRIVES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% grenache, 20% syrah. Dense berry preserves aroma. Lovely raspberry and chocolate. Like a dark chocolate truffle with raspberry creme filling./ Oh, dense and luscious. Great fruit concentration balanced by good grip and fine-grained tannins. Hints of green peppercorn, green olives, and spicy charcuteries add to the aromatic complexity. Very long. Just the right proportions. 16.9+. WT073008-14. 06 PLAN DE DIEU - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Half each grenache and syrah. Still somewhat enclosed to start. Deep, dark, thick, purple berries and chocolate. Bigger and more backward than the above, in the Villages vernacular (though the Haix aux Grives cuvee actually comes form Villages terroir too)./ The palate shows more openness than the nose. Good garrigue set of nuances. And floral highlights. Still somewhat astringent and tannic, as it should be at this stage. Plenty of promise. 16.8++. WT073008-15. 05 KARLY POKERVILLE AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Best ever Pokerville. More depth, more fulfillment than any previous vintage. 05 grip. Light wood touch. Fresh and tangy roti fruit of Amador./ Body and vigor. Balance of fruit richness, acid, alcohol, glycerol. I love the weight; just right for widespread service. 16.0. WT073008-16. 07 RHEINHESSEN RIESLING KABINETT JEAN BAPTISTE, GUNDERLOCH - (GERMANY) Decadent. The ripest of tangerines. Also peach, orange cake, honey-rock. A luscious fruit bomb. Nice powderpuff floral air too./ Sweet and soft. 07 ease. Very ripe–high spatlese for sure. Tangelo and peel. Sweetness up front with good acid support behind. 16.6+. WT073008-17. 07 MOSEL RIESLING BUTTERFLY, ZILLIKEN - (GERMANY) Big contrast. Upper Saar Munch versus Rheinfront Hessen Rubens. The wine’s right, but the tasting order is wrong. When distanced from the Gunderloch, it does show some flesh on its bones./ Enticing apple and red currant-berry flavors. Cool, composed, on the dry side, especially by comparison. Plenty of extract and, of course, acidity. A characteristic upper Saar dry riesling. Invites food. 16.2+. WT073008-18. 07 OPPENHEIMER SACKTRAGER RIESLING SPATLESE, DR. HEYDEN - (GERMANY) Spices, minerals, rare earth raciness–that’s Sacktrager. A textbook Sacktrager. Nectarine, spice cake.Nice citrus tones too./ Full juiciness and vigor. Very juicy for spatlese. Good acid carriage. Perfect composition. Very popular with the group, and considered a fine value. 16.8+.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008 WT072308-01. 07 SHERWOOD ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Ripe citrus and green apple. Refreshing, zesty, quaffable./ Good juiciness on the palate. Has body and presence, depth and piquance. Lively lemon-peach-grapefruit set with grassy hints too. Well proportioned. 16.0. WT072308-02. 07 HUSCH MENDOCINO SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Pear, melon, citrus zest, lemon drop. Pungent./ Smooth. Has body. Some ripe ruby red grapefruit. Refreshing. Shows balance and pedigree. 15.8. WT072308-03. 07 CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE OLD MISSION PENINSULA DRY RIESLING - (U.S.) Unusually perfumed for this cuvee. Floral, exotic, almost musky. Maybe there are still fermentation odors.. With aeration, settles into a nice apple and peach riesling set./ Sweet and plump on entry, but then states its dryness and juiciness in the middle. Lovely interplay of both sides of the story. Some mineral salts on the aftertaste.
Meal-worthy. Commendable. 16.5. WT072308-04. 07 MACON VILLAGES, DOMAINE DES GERBEAUX - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Perfumed young 07. Apple, almond, hazelnut. Fat, strong, well framed./ Soft and round young 07 style. Touch of honey, maybe botrytis. Mild in acidity and extract compared to the 06. Or maybe it’s just youth. Does put on some structure with aeration. Give it a chance. 16.1+. WT072308-05. 07 LE G DE CHATEAU GUIRAUD SEC, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Sauvignon pungency coated with vanilla, suggesting oak influence. Fat and sweet figgy aromas too; semillon states its case. And passion fruit./ This has both plumpness and cut. It’s the sauvignon-semillon thing. Semillon density and bright, cleansing sauvignon wash. Pleasing all the way. 16.3+. WT072308-06. 06 BEAUJOLAIS, DOMAINE CHATELUS DE LA ROCHE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Pungent, developing, but also still primary, airs of red fruits and berries and peels. Yes, full-blown, ripe berries and cherries, and a hint of cantaloupe. At a nice stage./ Balanced. Round and satisfying. Good acidity and grip. Plenty of fruit freshness. Fine texture, long and pleasing aftertaste. Will complement many foods. These guys are
good. 16.3. WT072308-07. 07 CONO SUR COLCHAGUA CARMENERE - (CHILE) A fruit forward, fruit bomb of a carmenere, all the way. Good oak toast and spice augmentation./ Delicious fruit fulfillment. Big black cherry flavor. Fine oak. Follows the pattern of the eager-to-please 07 cabernet. I don’t remember the previous vintages’ Bordeaux reds of Cono Sur being quite so demonstrative, quite so succulent in youth. 16.3+. WT072308-08. 06 JUMILLA MONASTRELL, MERUM - (SPAIN) Fresh and new. Lush and rich. Currants, black cherry, tobacco, touch of smoky bacon./ Rich and fruity. Full, supple, burnished monastrell texture. Good acid, tannin, and fruit sweetness in balance. Flavorful and lasting. Good with food now; will improve. 16.0+. WT072308-09. 07 RIOJA TEMPRANILLO, CUETO - (SPAIN) Nice and fruit, soft, primary aromas. Yes, full of fruit./ Lots of easy, fresh blackberry. Plus peel extracts. Young and still forming; will improve. 15.6+. WT072308-10. 05 RIOJA COSME, BODEGAS PALACIO - (SPAIN) Dense black fruits, wood smoke, and mature wood patina. American oak and sweet fruit. Floral overtones. Has complexity, verve, panache./ Richly burnished berry taste. Toast, nuts, fruit, good acidity. Real Rioja. But young. Both wood and fruit tannins to resolve. 16.0+. WT072308-11. 06 CHIANTI CLASSICO, CARPINETO - (ITALY) Young, and quite woody still. Great acidity apparent even on the nose. Dried cherry, mulberry, and anise. Compact, dense, sinewy, poised. Right./ Great dried fruit sweetness and viscosity, great juiciness and acidity. All in harmony. Super aging potential due to its abundance of all the right materials and their balance with one another. The overwhelming favorite
wine of the evening. Many seconds taken. And a lot of praise for its current pleasures as well as its future. I can see that, because of the superb balance. But I really think this will make a great, moderate priced wine for cellaring. 17.1+. WT072308-12. 05 CHATEAU PUYNORMAND, MONTAGNE SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc. Good, sweet, ripe claret with Saint Emilion generosity and 05 form and elegance. Cherry, cassis, plum. I like this better than the Vieilles Vignes cuvee at this young stage–more accessible. The vines behind this one are respectively old too. Nice, spicy dusting of oak./ Great acidity and lift, with fine extract
and tannin for texture. 05 refinement, balance, suavity. Good age potential. 16.6+. WT072308-13. 05 VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE RIPASSO CAPITEL SAN ROCCO, TEDESCHI - (ITALY) Fine. More open and alluring than vintages of the recent past. Dark chocolate, smoked meats. Oak offers sweet Asian spices. The fruit is rich and ripe but not excessively ripe. All fits together just right for a ripasso./ Again, the oak spices, the dried fruit concentration, and the balance of both. Black cherry, black olive. Lush,
juicy, savory. Great acidity and tannin. Ageworthy. 16.9+. WT072308-14. 06 BOGLE OLD VINE CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Warm, ripe, heady Lodi style. Sweet and sassy, every reliable. Stewed plums, cherries. Some wood spices./ Fullness and sweetness balance the strength. Heady stuff though (14.8%). Needs sweet and hearty BBQ fare. 15.5. WT072308-15. 06 CARTLIDGE & BROWNE AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Amador Dark Roast. Good, warm plums and peels. Dry, powerful, and real Amador style./ Full and strong. Body and glycerol. And extract, acid, and build. It’s the heft, acidity, structure, and dryness that separate this from the softer, sweeter Lodi style above. Classic Amador zin at a bargain price. 16.2. WT072308-16. 06 BOGLE CALIFORNIA PETITE SIRAH - (U.S.) The heavy Haut Brion bottle suggests that Bogle takes extra pride in this cuvee, and, indeed, the wine reflects the same. There’s the wood extras than in the zinfandel. Warm, ripe berry fruit, white pepper, good strength. Serious work here./ Rich textured and well balanced. Not as sweet and smooth as the zin; more grit, burnish. Yes, the texture speaks throughout
the long aftertaste. Well made, well priced pet. 16.0.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008 WT071608-01. GRAHAM BECK WESTERN CAPE CHARDONNAY-PINOT NOIR BRUT - (SPARKLING) I don’t like to emphasize cleanliness in a wine’s attributes because it should come with the territory, but I find this wine strikingly CLEAN and all the better for it. Yes, dry, discreet, ethereal. The pinot component is apparent for its red-peel extracts and aromas./ Yes, very, very clean approach. A nice, lightly toasty bottle bouquet
comes forth on the palate. Very attractive overall, very versatile for aperitif and table service, and worth the price. Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT071608-02. CREMANT DE BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, SIMONNET-FEBVRE - (SPARKLING) More Euro. It’s terroir oriented. Calcareous. Some red peel tones of pinot. Nutty, toasty bottle bouquet too./ Tart cherry flavor of northern Burgundy pinot. And nutty bottle bouquet. Also well liked by the group. 16.3. WT071608-03. 07 VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA COSTAMOLINO, ARGIOLAS - (ITALY) Pungent and full. The real vermentino deal. It’s like pinot grigio exaggerated. The apple, the wax, the body. Plus the additional perfumes of vermentino that bear resemblance to malvasia. Spry, fragrant, and floral, suggesting orange blossom./ Musk, spices, minerals. Full, forthcoming, stunning, concentrated. One of the ‘biggest’ in the series. Well
liked by the group. 16.3. WT071608-04. 06 MONTLOUIS SEC TOUCHE MITAINE, LE ROCHER DES VIOLETTES - (FRANCE LOIRE) A cool, clean, compact, dry, pure, transparent look at Montlouis chenin. Hints of quince, melon, and walnut. Incisive, textured./ Full. Some glycerol, foiled by some astringency. Persistent and flavorful aftertaste. A sleeper that seems to reserve more range and depth than it’s showing at the moment. Well liked by the group. 16.9+. WT071608-05. 07 VAUCLUSE BLANC CUVEE D’OR, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh! This is really full. Marsanne and/or roussanne in the cuvee? Certainly some grenache blanc. Pippy apple, pear, and melon tones./ Cool and lovely. Full and smooth. Full presence in the mouth. Touch of viognier honeysuckle. I like this for drinking now. 16.2. WT071608-06. 07 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, DOMAINE MIREILLE & VINCENT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full. Somewhat tonic scented. Bay-laurel. Is that bourboulenc? Plus yellow fruits and wild-flowers. Some viognier? Love it!/ Again, the tonic coolness, almost astringency. Lush texture, good acidity, full strength, stony base. Another beauty for drinking over the rest of the year. 16.2. WT071608-07. 07 VAUCLUSE ROSE CUVEE FRIANDE, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Yum, pretty red fruits, especially cranberry. Considerable peels extracts./ Some floral highlights. Nice acidity. Strong and direct. Not an aperitif rose. Needs food. 15.6. WT071608-08. 07 CONO SUR VALLE CENTRAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Clearly cabernet sauvignon, clearly and sweetly New World. Open and sweet aromas of black currant and pepper. Cherry and boysenberry notes too./ The nose is fruit dominated, but the palate shows a melange of attractive and complexing wood spices. The fruit is direct, posh, and clear, so this is already attractive. No stinginess like a lot of young,
inexpensive South American cabernets. 16.0. WT071608-09. 07 J. LOHR CYPRESS CENTRAL COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Sweet and nutty opening evolving to berries and vanilla. A certain warmth and style that suggests San Benito origins. In tune with previous vintages./ The fruit is darker and cooler on the palate, and a nice range of wood spices comes forth too. Also Cavendish tobacco with fruity casings. Really great acidity, plus fine-grained tannin adding texture.
Good effort. 15.5+. WT071608-10. 01 GIANNI PAOLETTI NAPA VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Wow! Deep and powerful. Plum pudding, brandy, wood extracts, incense. A stunner!/ A complex and savory potpourri of ripe fruits, cedar, tobacco, and spices. The balance and intensity of 01 personified. More powerful, more dramatic than the lovely 02, with more bouquet development. Huge value. When the group’s Europhiles declare a California wine The Wine of
the Tasting, you know it’s got something special going for it. 17.5. WT071608-11. 07 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, QUATTRO MANI - (ITALY) Oh! This is nice and dark and intense, ripe but not a bit overripe. Really loaded./ Again, very rich and concentrated. Great acidity too. Really great acidity. Better than the last vintage. More depth and better balance. A fabulous value. 16.3+. WT071608-12. 06 DOLCETTO DI DIANO D’ALBA, STEFANO FARINA - (ITALY) Reduced, but not to the extent that bright black fruit isn’t evident. Very concentrated–almost medicinal./ Hermetic indeed. Very tight, young, unyielding. Needs bottle age. 15.3++. WT071608-13. 06 BARBERA D’ALBA, STEFANO FARINA - (ITALY) This isn’t reduced, but boy is it a toughie to start. Aeration coaxes forth much more fruit and dexterity. Red berries, black cherry, tobacco, cigar box./ Tight but well balanced. Again, aeration brings forth fruit intensity. I like its makeup and poise. Just needs plenty of breathing time and/or 3+ years’ bottle age. 15.8++. WT071608-14. 06 OC, DOMAINE PUYDEVAL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 60% cabernet franc, 30% syrah, 10% merlot. 12 months in oak. I continue to find this unique, as well as exemplary of cabernet franc grown in a warm setting. And the nice, light oak seasonings add extra class, even more so than in the attractive 05. Lovely, ripe-fruited presentation with a lot of finesse. Enough finesse that it’s got me thinking about Cheval
Blanc./ Elegant, supple, charming raspberry and cherry fruit. Rich oak savors; potpourri of warm spices. Real depth. Fine fruit coordination and quality. 16.4+. WT071608-15. 07 COTES DU RHONE ROC EPINE, DOMAINE LAFOND - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Beautiful, billowing aromas of flowers and berries. Sweet, deep, purple fruits. Sweet, spicy, savory oak highlights too. Lush, forward black cherry and dark berries, with shades of green olive, black pepper, and licorice./ Yes, sweet and spicy in regards to both fruit and oak. Abundant and wide ranging flavors and textures. What a lovely
introduction to 07 Rhone rouge! 16.4+. WT071608-16. 00 BALEARS, SON BORDILS - (SPAIN) Well, this is finally showing some progress, some loosening up, some bouquet development. In the past, it’s always been really tight and tough. Good wood range, good bottle bouquet, plenty of fruit yet. Growth to go. 16.5+. WT071608-17. 07 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE, ST. ANTONIUS - (GERMANY) Oh, is this terrific! The total 07 combo of richness and raciness. Peach-apricot succulence plus lithe riesling florals. Exemplary Kronenberg fruit thickness lifted by 07 airiness. Penetrating, complete, real, fabulous./ Fresh and buoyant. Sure auslese concentration, yet the vintage gives it a feathery lightness of being. Can’t say enough
about its present and future pleasures. And the price!!! 17.0+. Wednesday, July 9, 2008 WT070908-01. 07 SAVOIE APREMONT, PIERRE BONIFACE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, boy! A very fresh, upbeat lemon thyme aroma with some Alpine flowers highlights. Spry, with mineral zestiness./ Fresh and sprightly, with ripe yellow berries and firm mineral-chalk basis plus floral highlights. Nice texture featuring richness, brightness, and lift. Good range of botanicals on the palate. Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT070908-02. 07 CHATEAU DUCASSE, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Oh, boy, again! Dubourdieu is so good at combining the lushness of semillon (85% of the cuvee) with the briskness of sauvignon and muscadelle. Fig with lemon, and some melon too. Light grass and sweet pea highlights./ Yes, the lush, old vines semillon display of fig, citrus, melon, and nut too. Ripe, rich, and weighty. Full and well balanced. That bright,
eager, fruit-forward style of so many Euro dry whites. Well liked by the group. 16.5. WT070908-03. 07 VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO, TOSCOLO - (ITALY) Wow! Apple, tonic, lime, balsam. Really well extracted vernaccia. Much greater aromatic range than is typical./ Lime and peel, straw, and balsamic tones. But the flavors are less intense than the aromas. And, texturally, the wine’s kinda meek, diffuse. Weak and fleeting finish. Fast fade after such a come-on nose. 15.3. WT070908-04. 07 RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO, BURGANS - (PORTUGAL) Whoa! Sweet and fully perfumed of apple, pear, peach, honeysuckle and other flowers. Ideal. A textbook intro to albarino./ Very flavorful. Plump, supple, juicy, and vigorous. Aromatically and texturally, there are more dramatic, complex, rich, and/or satisfying albarinos, but this one’s lovely in its simplicity and correctness. And price. Entry level albarino
in the best sense. Very popular with the group. 16.3. WT070908-05. 07 SOAVE CLASSICO SAN VINCENZO, ANSELMI - (ITALY) Full, with apple, pear, cream, fruit rind, almond, hazelnut, sage, and modeling clay aromas. One complex Soave! A sweet, creamy richness of texture./ Crisp and alert, as well as nicely padded. Well balanced. Dense, solid, sturdy foundation. Plenty of depth. And full bodied indeed. This is loaded. 16.7. WT070908-06. 07 GRECO DI TUFO LOGGIA DELLA SERRA, TERREDORA DIPAOLO - (ITALY) Wow! Balsamic honey, citrus oil. Unique, forward, penetrating, total./ Rich and tonic. Good acidity, astringency, and length. Not as much glycerol as some grecos, and other vintages of this one. Likely it will fill out over the coming months. 16.8+. WT070908-07. 06 PINOT GRIS, PAUL ZINCK - (FRANCE ALSACE) Ventilating. Peach, melon, menthol. Upbeat./ Yes, plenty of ventilating relief. Good acidity for Alsace pinot gris. Moderate richness, viscosity, strength. Not one of the bigger, lusher renditions. May fill out further. 16.3+. WT070908-08. 04 GEWURZTRAMINER PRESTIGE, PAUL ZINCK - (FRANCE ALSACE) Honey, tonic, burnt orange peel. And given its spiritous nature, it’s reminiscent of Cointreau. Just a little rose, lychee, melon, and apricot. This is mainly citrus driven./ Flavorful, maturing, spiritous. Yes, orange liqueur notions. Long, heady finish. A gewurz that marches to its own drummer. Good stuff. Good now. 16.7. WT070908-09. 05 TOSCANA TUTTOBENE, ANGELINI - (ITALY) Dark, sweet black cherry concentrated to the extent that it has medicinal and bituminous properties./ Rich and range. Boy, there’s plenty of purple-black fruit material here. Some nice glycerol too, matched by fine tannin. Like the 04, a definite value–lots too offer for the price. 16.1+. WT070908-10. 05 BARBERA DEL PIEMONTE OTTONE I, SAN SILVESTRO - (ITALY) Fresh, sweet, lush concentrate of barbera blackness–black fruit and black licorice./ Very flavorful. Fresh black and red fruits. Balance and transparency. Projects a certain ease and immediacy, yet there’s not shortage of racy acidity. Offers no resistance to current drinking. Good play on this Piemonte vintage’s strengths. 16.0+. WT070908-11. 99 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA COLLE LUNGO - (ITALY) By Alberto Antinori. Unfined, unfiltered. Unfettered too. 99 size and grip. The high aromatic levels of wood, time in wood, time in bottle, fruit ripeness, and alcohol give this port-like inclinations. And the rancio of age that has shown up in so many 99s–and even 01s– over the last year or two./ Really fully packed with singed fruit, loaded with wood,
and powerful too. Dense, inky, pitchy, smoky. Sweet core fruits and youthful strengths retained. Full tannin. The tannins are still edgy, though some in the group thought them pretty manageable. Worth giving some additional cellar time. Importer’s special clearance price; regular price: $75. 16.7+ WT070908-12. 99 CHATEAU FOURCAS HOSTEN, CRU BOURGEOIS SUPERIEUR, LISTRAC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 99 charm, ease. Opening aromatic foray emphasizes gaminess. Ripe enough fruit for 99 (Fourcas does well in the lighter vintages). Cabernet sauvignon blackberry-blackcurrant emphasis with merlot padding, softness. The gaminess airs off to reveal sweet, ripe fruit with claret style and 99 ease./ Again, well-hung game on entry.
Vanilla oak tinges are nice. Some tannin and astringency yet, but this will be assuaged by food, so it’s not too soon to use the wine at the table. 16.3+. WT070908-13. 04 MADIRAN TORUS, ALAIN BRUMONT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 50% tannat, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc. Lovely, classic, fresh, bright. 04 and tannat blackness, especially black cherry, black currant, and black licorice. This has buoyancy./ Pure and perfect example of Madiran left to its fruit devices alone. Delicious taste and balance. The tannins are melted–fine and smooth grained. 04 lift. 16.8. WT070908-14. 06 TORO DEHESA GAGO, TELMO RODRIGUEZ - (SPAIN) Cool, ventilating aromas of purple fruits, black currant, black cherry, and anise. Exceptional clarity./ Again, fresh and cool, with black pepper and anise. Great fruit flavor. Very fine tannins. 16.7+. WT070908-15. 06 VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CUVEE RAPHAEL, TOMMASI - (ITALY) Sweet, ripe, ripasso nose replete with sugar plums and fruit cremes. Great and intense ripasso. Perfect./ Yes, flavorful, plush, and creamy in the mouth, with a compact core of potential. Fine tannin. Fine balance. Well liked by the group and considered an excellent value. 16.5+.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008 WT070208-01. 07 LUGANA, TENUTA ROVEGLIA - (ITALY) Cool green fruits: apple, pear, melon. Rich and intense too. Attractive and generous./ Very fragrant in the mouth. Flowers, yellow grapes, touch of white peach, and a light lemon accent. Vibrant acidity. This shows good body and strength even though it’s only 12.5% alcohol. Well, I guess that’s on the high side for a Lugana. Rich textured fruit on a stony base. Chewy.
Long and lovely.
Will fill out further and mellow as well over the coming months. Impressive. 16.3+. WT070208-02. 07 SICILIA FIANO MANDRA ROSSA, SETTESOLI - (ITALY) Strong, warm, and honeyed Sicilian take on fiano. Potpourri, botanicals, flowers, minerals./ Rich texture of fiano. Certainly a fulfilled example of the varietal. Bold and broad-flavored mouthful. Lacks the finesse of the best Campanian fianos, but, hey, at less than half the price, who’s complaining? Certainly not the group; many favorable comments on
quality and
value. 16.1. WT070208-03. 07 CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE COLUMBIA VALLEY PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) True honey, nut, apple, melon, citrus peel characteristics of pinot gris./ The palate’s not as rich as the nose though. Just medium bodied. Hopefully, it will fill out. Nice, tingly acidity. Clean and useful now; more give on the horizon. 15.8+. WT070208-04. 06 MACON DAVAYE, DOMAINE DE LA CROIX SENAILLET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Appley Maconnais chardonnay with nutty-creamy malo aspects. Yes, apples in cream. Nice./ Soft, creamy malo center contained within a good acid brace. In fact, this is really quite crisp for an 06. Solid, muscular, compact, dense form, with grain and mineral presence. Quite a hefty Macon and one that will reward a year or two of aging. 16.0+. WT070208-05. 07 CHATEAU ST. JEAN SONOMA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Very fresh and revealing apple and oak aromas (toast, vanilla)./ Rich caramelly oakiness coupled with good, appley chardonnay fruit character. It’s young but already well balanced. In fact, it’s a tasty little butterball right now. Long finish. I’ve never tasted one of these CSJ chardonnays so young. The overall freshness is most welcoming. 16.0+. WT070208-06. 07 GOATS DO ROAM COASTAL REGION ROSE - (SOUTH AFRICA) Sweet and confectionery red berry fruit./ Peels extracts give considerable grip. This is not such an easy date after all. The acidity, the astringency, the extract all call for substantial fare. Beyond pool-side rose. 14.5+. WT070208-07. 07 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES CHATEAU DE VARENNES NOUVEAU, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh. Easier, softer, lusher, redder fruit than the Flower Label Villages. Strawberry-banana. And nice floral overtones. Yes, a sweet, fruity nose./ Rich fruit palate filling. Showing some grip still but less than the Flower Label. Nicer now but likewise with some growth to go. 16.0+. WT070208-08. 07 PARKER STATION CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Sweet and sassy cherry gummies New World pinot aromas. Easy./ Yes, there’s more ease and less power than the 06. And I find little or no wood in this one. More levity, smoothness. Gulpable. 16.0. WT070208-9. 06 CONCANNON LIMITED RELEASE CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) The opposite of the Parker Station. Tart cherry and green tea. Burnished oak patina./ Euro acidity, astringency, grip Not much fun now, especially for pinot. Keep. 15.4+. WT070208-10. 06 MONTOYA MONTEREY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Lovely cherry and tea pinot. Purity, buoyancy, beauty, finesse. Just a light touch of toasted oak./ Delicious pinot fruit sweetness. Less tart and tight and woody than the 05. Inviting Monterey pinot noir. 16.4. WT070208-11. 05 DROME MERLOT, DOMAINE DE LA BASTIDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet nose of ripe, dark berries and five-spice powder. No merlot character to speak of./ Good acidity. Again, absence of varietal character, but certainly ripe and fruity enough. 14.0. WT070208-12. 06 VISAN - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DE LA BASTIDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 40% each grenache and syrah, 20% carignan. Nice, intense, dense, rich, broad nose that fulfills Villages expectations. Strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and licorice impressions./ The palate is terse yet. Good grip, substance, and form but less fruit generosity. That’s promising. Good price for Villages these days. 16.4+. WT070208-13. 07 OLTREPO PAVESE PARADISO SANGUE DI GUIDA, BRUNO VERDI - (ITALY) The Blood of Judas wine from the Paradiso vineyard that lies Over The Po From Pavia. Sweet, ripe fruit with some rancio aspects. Good grip to foil the sweetness./ Yes, balance of sweetness and acid-tannin-extract grip. Rancio notes of grape seeds and even grappa. Different. Good example: what it should be. 16.2. WT070208-14. 06 SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA-SYRAH BENUARA, CUSUMANO - (ITALY) Oh, boy! Richer, broader, and deeper than the previous vintage. More variegated too. Spicy, peppery./ Most fulfilling on the palate. Rich fruit filling with solid framing. Great acidity and tannin. Impressive bulk, material. Great length too. 16.8+. WT070208-15. 06 ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Classy and accomplished. Well tuned and proportioned ALV cabernet raspberry with wood borders. Yes, plentiful sweet red fruit. And the oak plays nicely; it’s more than just woody. There’s coffee, mocha./ Yes, well balanced, finely tuned, nicely stated. Delectable fruit presence. And spices. Good acid, tannin. Should fill out continually
over
the coming months to emulate the style and quality of the 04 and 05. Actually, it’s more accessible now than was the 05 at the same age. 16.5+. WT070208-16. 04 DURKHEIMER NONNENGARTEN RIESLANER BEERENAUSLESE, KURT DARTING half liter - (GERMANY) Oh, my! What more could one want of rieslaner? Darting surely learned well during his apprenticeship under Hans-Gunther Schwarz, the long-time, brilliant winemaster at Muller-Catoir. Honey, ripe grains, apricot, lime. Botrytis gives tea, tobacco, and dust. Fresh and deep, with good 04 framework./ Full volume sweetness,
grip, concentration,
acidity, varietal clarity, botrytis bonuses. Has it all. Youngster yet. 18.5+.
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