WT021710-01. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH GRUNER VELTLINER PEPPER, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) None of us could find the ‘pepper’, though I have gotten a peppery nip from gru ves before, a sort of weissbier sensation. This is understated apple and lima./ Soft and easy like the Wachau a couple of weeks ago. Other 08s have been firmer. The finish is cool, brisk, and dry though. 15.8.
Price
each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-02. 08 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, DOMAINE BERTHET-RAYNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 45% each clairette and bourboulenc, 10% grenache blanc. Organically grown. That’s a lot of bourboulenc, and it shows its very crisp, green-grape aroma./ Yes, green-fruited bourboulenc makes a strong statement, even adding some astringency. But that’s not all. With aeration, there’s preserved lemon, stone fruits, loquat, almond, smoke, duck fat,
and honeysuckle. Quite a show. All the varieties are chiming in now. Some glycerol on entry, and a stony minerality to the finish. Lots of entertainment. Still on the compact side. Give it more bottle age. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-03. 08 VALLEY OF THE MOON SONOMA PINOT BLANC - (U.S.) Oh, yes! Rich as usual yet pinot blanc green-fruited too. Powerful, succulent. Waxy. True./ Rich fruit filling within a solid frame. The moderation in acidity of pinot blanc, especially warmer climate pinot blanc. Great juice. Well, this is fully up to the quality level of the 07 and 06. Well liked by the group. 16.4.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-04. 08 KENWOOD SONOMA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Well proportioned measures of oak and fruit. Appley chardonnay; spicy and flattering oak seasonings. Stone fruits and melons too. Gentle on the approach./ Comes on with lots of sweet oak spices and malolactic creaminess. The fruit remains perky though, so the wine has spine as well as flesh. The usual reliability here. 15.9.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-05. 09 CALCU COLCHAGUA VALLEY ROSE - (CHILE) 50% malbec, 40% syrah, 10% carmenere. And ‘100% sauvignon blanc’. The desk sample a couple of weeks back showed me red fruit–strawberry candy and cranberry. However today, we all agreed, that if blindfolded we would have guessed sauvignon blanc. Crisp and fresh gooseberry, grapefruit, and orange peel aromas./ Soft and sweetish on entry. Then the acidity shows up. Definitely
sauvignon like. One taster guesses that this was the product of the green harvest, where even red grapes have tart white fruit character. Hard to believe this came from the same batch as the desk sample. 16.0, as an appealing, sauvignon-like wine. But shows no rose character.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-06. 07 KENWOOD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Real pinot cherry and strawberry aromas. RRV race and class. Convincing pinot./ Both rich and racy. Mulberry, tea leaf, creamy chocolate. Peels, snap, acid, juice, race. And glycerol to enrich the texture. An out and out bargain in RRV pinot. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $15.99
WT021710-07. 08 NIEDEROSTERREICH ZWEIGELT CHERRY, PFAFFL - (AUSTRIA) OK, I can find some ‘cherry’ here, unlike the ‘pepper’ in the gru ve. Sweet-smelling and aiming to please./ Yes, cherry, and berries too. Dry and full. Not a bit green-fruited like many an Austrian red. Well constructed. Real depth. One big zweigelt. 16.0.
Price each (at time of tasting) $14.99
WT021710-08. 05 TOAD HOLLOW RESERVE RICHARD MCDOWELL VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Dark fruits, smoke, black licorice, brett. A lot of oak over merlot black cherry character./ Moving into a mature phase aromatically, while some manageable 05 tannins remain. Strong elements of oak and brett. Reserve style. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $12.99
WT021710-09. 08 LUBERON GRENACHE-SYRAH, LE PARADOU - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Did Luberon drop the ‘Cotes’ like Ventoux? I guess. 60/40. Fresh and crisp, and a bit lean in the 08 way. But this has cool-vintage garrigue! Crisp, sweet berry fruit. Good stuff!/ Oh, yes! A fabulous display of garrigue and cool berry fruit. Good acidity, of course. Some astringency to work out, or to appreciate with food. Another good 08 southern Rhone
discovery. Well liked by the group. 16.3+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-10. 07 COTEAUX DE BESSILLES CUVEE RESERVEE, DOMAINE SAINT MARTIN DE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Starts out surprisingly cool and compact for 07. Licorice laced. Well built. With aeration the 07 fruit ripeness starts to come out. Even a touch of singed fruit./ Bold and full. This is really substantial. But it needs more bottle age to allow all its aromas and flavors to form. Unusually compact for the vintage. 16.4+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $13.99
WT021710-11. 08 COTES DU RHONE L’OMBRE DES FONTAINES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault. Sweet fruited nose for 08. Strong too. Sweet licorice./ More sweet licorice. Dark, secretive qualities of 08. Yes, terse and tight on the palate. Needs time. 15.6+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-12. 08 COTES DU RHONE DOMAINE MAS DU BOUQUET, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% carignan. Somewhat reduced to start. Opens to show woodsy tones, spiced meat, and cedar./ Tight on entry, but sweetens up some with warming and aerating in the mouth. No reduction to the palate. Good volume, power, glycerol, especially for the vintage. 15.8+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $11.99
WT021710-13. 07 VALREAS - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VAL DES ROIS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Spicy and powerful (14%). Tight. Much bigger and more forceful than the 04./ Indeed, full body and texture. Much more material richness than the 04. Real strength and depth. Fine acidity here, as always. Yes! The group was impressed. 16.5+.
Price each (at time of tasting)
$15.99
WT021710-14. 07 CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES ALTOVINUM, EVODIA - (SPAIN) Sweet fruit up front. Powerful (14.5%). Ripe and large. Blackberry, strawberry, cinnamon, bitter chocolate, even flowers./ Sweet and sassy red fruit. Plummy and cohesive. Good acidity. Stylish and seductive. Great price. Popular with the group. 16.2+.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
WT021710-15. 07 CASTILLA TEMPRANILLO GRANROJO, ROJO MOJO - (SPAIN) Very ripe and bold on the approach. Settles down to show good fruit quality. Not too ripe or powerful after all./ Well balanced. The fruit sweetness is attractive and nicely measured. Better than previous versions. 15.8.
Price each (at time of tasting) $9.99
WT021710-16. 07 ESPANA ESTE, BODEGAS ALTO ALMANZORA - (SPAIN) Generous and good fruit, wholesome fruit. Sweet strawberry./ Sweet and flowing. Raspberry, cassis, walnut brownie. Good acidity and richness in balance. Best ever. 16.3.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-17. 09 EMILIANA NATURA RAPEL VALLEY GEWURZTRAMINER - (CHILE) Really quite full (14%). Genuine and generous gewurz aroma profile. Lychee, peach, tonic, ginger. Much more to give than the 08. Flashes Alsace power and intensity./ Yes, much larger and more expressive than the 08. Has gewurz astringency. Short of Alsace on the glycerol. Still, well priced and impressive New World take. 16.2.
Price each (at time of tasting) $10.99
WT021710-18. MOLDOVA CAHOR - (MOLDOVA) The Orthodox Church of Moldova used to import wine from Cahors and sweeten it with honey. Thus the origin of the name. Sweet and somewhat raisined and molasses like, which is all attractive. Liquid dates. Cherry blossom highlights. Good power (16%) to keep it from being too sticky./ Raisin, raisinette, honey, spice, power. Port like. Competes well with the cheaper Aussie tawnies. 16.7.
Price each (at time of tasting) $8.99
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Wednesday, June 30, 2010 WT063010-01. 09 COTES DE GASCOGNE COLOMBARD-UGNI BLANC, DOMAINE DE MILLET - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Gold Medal - Paris. Oh, boy, a big burst of fresh peach, followed by papaya, lemon, and spring grass./ Whoa! Fresh peach and peel in command. Colombard speaks, loud. Succulent. 09 interplay of plump and tart. Yes! Very popular with the group. 16.7. WT063010-02. 09 ALLAN SCOTT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Pear, apple, lemon, gooseberry. Restrained and elegant. / Oh, but in the mouth it’s plenty juicy. This really swells up on the palate. Succulent, crisp, juicy, bright. Liked by the group. 16.4. WT063010-03. 09 HAUT POITOU SAUVIGNON LE BOIS DE LA TOUR, CAVE DU HAUT POITOU - (FRANCE LOIRE) Crisp, cool, minerally, and clear. 09 adds richness to the usual Haut Poitou raciness. Lots of aromatic flair here, especially gooseberry. Also quince, lemon and zest, grass./ Crisp gooseberry crunchiness. Great acidity, race. Nice value. Does what $10 sauvignon should do. Good to have this source back. It’s been a long while. Liked by the group. 16.4. WT063010-04. 09 TOURAINE SAUVIGNON LE GRAND ST. VINCENT, VIGNERONS DE COTEAUX ROMANAIS - (FRANCE LOIRE) At St. Romain sur Cher. Whoa! Big time cut. Grapefruit and gooseberry. Really sings./ Full burst of sauvignon flavors. Juicy acidity. Vigorous, stimulating, textural. And very flavorful. Liked by the group. 16.6. WT063010-05. 09 BERGERAC BLANC, CHATEAU BELINGARD - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle. A bit soft after the Loire sauvignons. 09, Bergerac, and the semillon component contribute to its relative mellowness. Good sauvignon citrus and muscadelle green fruit aromas./ Again, soft and gentle after the Loires. A matter of context. Apple, quince, white peach. I liked an earlier sample better (16/20) thanks to a different tasting order. 15.8+. WT063010-06. 09 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, cool green fruits and botanicals typical of the southern Rhone encepagement. Aromatically, one of the best in the series./ Lively and floral. Ripe stone fruits. Delicious vinosity. Botanicals astringency. Citrus and other peels. Good acidity. Lots to offer–this summer and fall! 16.1. WT063010-07. 08 ALLAN SCOTT MARLBOROUGH RIESLING - (NEW ZEALAND) At a good stage. Some of that Aussie riesling lime character, but just the juice, none of the peel oiliness, heaviness. Some bottle bouquet formed. It’s flattering./ Again, the lime and the maturing riesling evergreen aspects. Good NZ lift, acidity. Zesty, minerally, vibrant, exotic, engaging. Amazing, really. Truly dry. And long. Begs for food. Wow! Popular with the group. 16.3. WT063010-08. 09 MONTOYA MONTEREY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Bright, crisp, tea like, cool Monterey pinot style. Up to snuff./ Cherry juice and tea. Very juicy and fine. Some wood toast too, and vanilla, cream, cookie dough. Makes for good complexity. The right acidity. Commendable once again in 09. More like the 07 than the 08 in style. Popular with the group. 16.4. WT063010-09. 08 ALLAN SCOTT MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR - (NEW ZEALAND) Reductive, but clearly large. Dusky cherry, tea, tar. Spicy oak patina./ Sweeter and softer than the nose suggests. Generous, in fact. Cherry, red raspberry, cassis. Real pinot character, vital and classy. With further aeration, the nose should come around too. Liked by the group. 16.3+. WT063010-10. 08 TOSCANA ROSSO, FIORE - (ITALY) Cellar at San Gimignano. 70% sangiovese, 30% cabernet. Good, zesty, red berry-cherry aroma. Lots of textural play–tingles and fulls the nostrils, smelling-salts wine–really grabs your attention. Vigorous. Dark and compact fruit core of 08./ Oh! Big, juicy, spicy, fruity. Very flavorful. Ripe, round, and sweet-fruited for 08, especially the cabernet component. Lasts and lasts. 16.3. WT063010-11. 08 BERGERAC, CHATEAU BELINGARD - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec. 08 dark, firm, mean upon opening. The next day, more fulfilled, gratifying./ 08 solidity, extract, material, tannin. Shows plenty of presence and substance but needs time for aromatic development. When I tasted this wine a couple of weeks back, it had benefitted from several days’ aeration and was much more revealing. Good sign. And good take on the powers of aeration. 15.9+. WT063010-12. 07 COTES DE BERGERAC BLANCHE DE BOSREDON, CHATEAU BELINGARD - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Silver Medal - Paris. Half each cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Eleve en futs de chene (barrel aged). Good oak toast, wood spices, cedar, sandalwood. Fine black fruit and berry ripeness. 07 claret elegance./ Yes, both fruit and oak are refined. Complementary too. A delicious combo, really. 16.4+. WT063010-13. 08 OC LE CLOT, DOMAINE DE BLANES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Upon opening, reduced. Dark and sullen 08. Some spicy overtones. The next day, rich, succulent. Raspberry, cassis. Fruit creme aspects. In some port-like aromas./ As so often happens with these 08s, the palate is more revealing from the get-go. Raspberry and cassis, very precise and pure. Fine, cool, racy, spicy, delicious. Give plenty of aeration to open up the nose. Or more bottle age. 16.2+. WT063010-14. 07 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES NOTRE DAME DES CELLETTES, DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Young and closed in. Aeration coaxes forth deep, sweet berry and plum aromas and a hint of garrigue, peppercorn, and nutmeg./ Full, powerful, rich, loaded. Ripe, black-fruited, spicy, licorice-laced. Good acidity. Tannic, compact core. A brawny lad. Will improve 5+ years. 16.5++. WT063010-15. 08 FABRE MONTMAYOU GRAN RESERVA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) From 50 year old vines. Well, this is not 08 easy and revealing like the Reserva last week. Dense, compact. A black hole of a nose. Down deep inside, there’s a concentrated core of berries and cherries./ Loaded, powerful. But still contrite, compact. Doesn’t show the oak or time in oak suggested by its title. In need of more bottle age, for sure. 16.4++. WT063010-16. 08 JAM NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) 08 black and resistant. Hard oak and fruit. Severe, really./ Oh, but once again, the palate is more facile, much easier to assimilate. And positively sweet. Dr. Jekel-Mr. Hyde. Ripe but not really jammy fruit. Just finished with a lot of sweetness. Doesn’t say much about Napa Valley cabernet. Naturally, the Europhiles in the group were not amused. 15.2+. WT063010-17. 08 MONTOYA OLD VINE LODI ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet Lodi fruit with legit old vines concentration. An OK level of jelly and jam, without getting into the jug thing. Red fruits, vanilla, toffee./ Sweet raspberry jam flavor. Good warmth and power. Very attractive. Real Lodi zin. And really great acidity! Lots of flavor and length. Well above the average Lodi zin. 16.1. WT063010-18. 08 EASTON AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) 08 surly. Deep, dark, powerful, forceful. Liqueur like ripeness and concentration./ Oh, boy! Raspberry candy, raspberry liqueur. Very concentrated. Succulent. Some attractive oak seasonings. Give the nose time to rise. 16.5+.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010 WT062310-01. 08 SANCERRE VIEILLES VIGNES, MORIN - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sleek and penetrating, with finely etched sauvignon cut and calcaire terroir. Melon and pear too. Old vines intensity, assertiveness. Sancerre on steroids./ Well textured, with fine acid frame. Rewardingly pungent. Fine and lasting. Calcaire echoes on the finish. 16.7. WT062310-02. 09 ALSACE PINOT BLANC, THE FURST - (FRANCE ALSACE) Rich and fruity, plump and ripe. Melon, pear, apple, white peach. 09 lift and beauty./ Great acidity, cut, and astringency. Good strength, dryness. Cool and racy for 09. Bombastic, salacious, full of joy. Acid and minerals join and extend the aftertaste. Yes! 16.4+. WT062310-03. 09 GATO NEGRO VALLE CENTRAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSE - (CHILE) Cabernet compact and vinous. Red fruits including raspberry./ More expressive on the palate. More fruit, flavor, body. Satisfying vinosity. Full and serviceable food rose. 15.5. WT062310-04. 09 TOSCANA ROSE, MELINI - (ITALY) Very pretty, dainty, delightful cherry-berry aroma set. Dried-flowers overtone./ Fruit and flavorful. Cherry-berry indeed. Juicy. Easy. Well balanced. Delicious. Won the hearts of the group. 16.5. WT062310-05. 09 COTES DU RHONE LE PAVILLON ROSE, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full, strong, peels-drenched. Fruity too. Strawberry, peach, rose. Large./ Yes, assertive and well extracted. Peels astringency and a bitterness beg for food. The body and power of Cotes du Rhone rose. 16.4. WT062310-06. 08 CHINON CUVEE TERROIR, CHARLES JOGUET - (FRANCE LOIRE) Big, deep, meaty. Dark and dense 08 style. Blackberry, spice, underbrush, chocolate, licorice, wood, tobacco, game./ Lots of fruit. Full textured. Well extracted. Fine tannic grip. Good balance. Give it time. Age 1-2 years and drink through age 5. 16.4+.. WT062310-07. 07 COTE CATALANES CUVEE JEAN PULL, DOMAINE DES SOULANES - (FRANC MEDITERRANEAN) Ah! Ripe cherries, vanilla creme, baking spices. Big, black fruit core, with pronounced carignan grip./ Deep, concentrated, and solid. Med warmth and ripeness. Good acidity. Generous and distinctive. 16.5+. WT062310-08. 08 COTES DU RHONE LA BOUVEAU, DOMAINE SAINT DAMIEN - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! Very spicy and ripe for 08. Lots of cherry-berry, peppercorn, cedar, incense, dried orange peel, flowers. One complex Cotes du Rhone!/ 08 dark and compact, but very spicy, broad, gamy,and flavorful. Lots of 07-like ripe fruit traits. Very popular with the group. 16.5+. WT062310-09. 08 TIERRA NOBLE MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Oh, boy! Super ripe and fruity 08 style, with plenty of spice and vigor too. Dark berries, Latakia tobacco, and tar-licorice. Big-time malbec./ Rich and fruity, with good oak flavor and oak extract feel. Full bodied, full textured. Welcome trace of bitterness at the finale. This delivers. 16.4. WT062310-10. 07 CHRIS RINGLAND EBENEZER DISTRICT BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Extreme power, lots of oak, cedar, blackberry, dill, tar, dark chocolate./ Rich, ripe, sweet fruit countered by ample barrel extracts. In its demonstrative style, it speaks volumes. 16.3. WT062310-11. 08 BICKENSOHLER VULKANFELSEN GEWURZTRAMINER KABINETT, WINZ. BICKENSOHL - (GERMANY) Lots of rose. Just gushes rose and lychee. Plus notes of lemon peel, loquat, ginger. / Sweet and soft, peachy gewurz approach. Flavorful. Spicy, floral nuances. Nectarine on the finish. Delightful. 16.1. WT062310-12. 08 BICKENSOHLER HERRENSTUCK GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE, WINZ. BICKENSOHL - (GERMANY) Firmer, less giving. Spatlesen take longer to come forth. Or perhaps it’s the site that makes the difference./ Yes, firm. With aeration come lychee, orange peel, peach, ginger. More of the extract of 08. No sweeter than the kabinett; in fact, seems drier. Good astringency. Needs time to fill out. 16.0+. WT062310-13. 09 ERBALUCE DI CALUSO, LEGUIE - (ITALY) Soft and scented. Right. Delivers./ Yes, full of extract and flavor. Apple, and what else? Fine. Erbaluce through and through. 16.6. WT062310-14. 09 PUGLIA ALTA FALANGHINA, CANTINE TEANUM - (ITALY) Wow! Ultra Falanghina! And it’s not from Campania either. Big surge of quince and citrus and citrus peel./ Again, comes right out with body, flavor, feel, extract. Full-textured indeed. A tribute to the variety. 16.8. WT062310-15. 09 SAN SEVERO FAVUGNE ROSATO, CANTINA TEANUM - (ITALY) All montepulciano. Whoa! Expressive! Lots of banana and red fruit peels../ Full. Still reductive and showing fermentation aromas and flavors (banana). Lots of peels extracts. Needs more time to develop varietal expression. 15.2+. WT062310-16. 08 PUGLIA NEGROAMARO OTRE, CANTINE TEANUM - (ITALY) Fresh and peppery. Right./ Huge spread of sweet and spicy fruits. Most vigorous. 16.6. WT062310-17. 08 PUGLIA AGLIANICO OTRE, CANTINE TEANUM - (ITALY) Fruity and forthcoming, expressive./ Bright and vigorous. Good acid, tannin, race. The quality of this Teanum red wine pair is impressive, as is the falanghina from here. Good source. 16.7. WT062310-18. DOLOMITI MOSCATO GIALLO, CASATA MONFORT half liter - (ITALY) Intense citrus blossom. Mock orange blossom nectar./ Thorough, saturated moscato perfumes with great acidity and astringency to balance the ample sweetness. 17.8. WT062310-19. 02 PASSITO DI ERBALUCE DI CALUSO, CANTINA CANAVESE half bottle - (ITALY) Smells like a bitter aperitif or an herb liqueur. And a good one. Citrus peel theme is strong, as are the botanicals./ Very sweet, with bitter herb and citrus peel foils. Campari. Jagermeister. 17.6.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010 WT061610-01. 09 COTES DE GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DES CASSAGNOLES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Grass, gooseberry, lemon-lime. Sauvignon like, but not quite. Fresh, bright. / Lively piquance, floral strains, pea-pod pungency. Green pear, lemon verbena. Fresh and tangy, bright and brisk. Full and round. Good body and strength for CdG. 09 talking. Long and flavorful aftertaste. Well, these 09 dry white SW France wines have certainly proven
promising harbingers of the later releases. Liked by the group. 16.4. WT061610-02. 09 VENEGIE PINOT GRIGIO-GARGANEGA, PASQUA - (ITALY) There’s a nostril etching here like it has some SO2, but that’s not it. It’s acidity and extract, I’m sure. Stimulating. Full and round too./ Brisk, bright apple an d melon. Well, you have two class varietals here playing in harmony. Flows nicely in the 09 style. Whoa! Is this a good value, or what?! Liked by the group. 16.0. WT061610-03. 08 VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO, FOLONARI - (ITALY) Well, there’s still plenty of fresh white fruits and flowers here. And volume./ Yes, fresh enough, with 08 fruit darkness and body. Delivers pinot grigio body, size, creaminess. And a perky, tangy foil of a finish. Another good value. 16.0. WT061610-04. 09 MATUA VALLEY MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Rather out of synch for this wine. It’s usually one of the brightest and briskest of the vintage. However, this 09 acts more like an 08. Heavy in grapefruit peel, cat, grass, bell pepper, and capsicum./ Yes, lacks 09 lift. However, if you adjust your expectations and approach it like an 08, the body, the citrus juice and peel amplitude, and the long
aftertaste make it certainly useful in a meal-time setting. 16.3. WT061610-05. 07 VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA, VILLA SOLAIS - (ITALY) Aging. Getting evergreen./ Yes, passe. Tasty enough though, if you like this sort of thing in your vermentions. Some nice herbed tea asapects, and an attractively burnished texture. The group used old-riesling descriptors, like turpentine. 14.0-. WT061610-06. 09 WACHAU GRUNER VELTLINER, DOMAINE WACHAU - (AUSTRIA) Crisp and fresh. Surprisingly crisp for 09. Right out of the box. Apple and snow pea./ Yes, apple and pea, and hint of loquat. Good body and heft. Flavorful, nice carriage, elegance. Softer than the 08, or still showing youthful innocence. Good value, for sure. 16.2+. WT061610-07. 09 ROERO ARNEIS, VIETTI - (ITALY) Whoa! Fragrant, refined, uplifting, full. Progressing nicely since last month’s encounter. Swelling up. Peach, pear, apple, ripe melon, flowers./ Plump and succulent fruit with good acid brace. Bright, precise, penetrating, stylish. Good as it gets. So attractive right now. 17.0. WT061610-08. 08 MONTPELLIER CALIFORNIA VIOGNIER - (U.S.) Tasters Guild Double Gold Medal winner (45 out of 1650 entries). I can see why. Honeysuckle and laurel. Tea, mate. Special./ Yes, the sweet fruit and light glycerol set against the astringent botanicals like laurel. It’s full, completely dry. Long lasting, cleansing finish. This is much more serious than the price would suggest. The botanicals mark it unique. 16.4. WT061610-09. 08 CLOS ROBERT CENTRAL COAST CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Well controlled oak. 08 fruit darkness, peels. Central Coast citrus./ Already getting a little heavy./ Soft, strong, high pH. Thick and not refreshing. Some of the group liked it better than I did. 14.5. WT061610-10. 09 NAVARRA GARNACHA ROSE, ARTAZURI - (SPAIN) Very full for Navarra rose, even powerful. Sweet, zesty, and intense aromas of red fruits and peels. Raspberry and strawberry. Delivers./ Sweet fruit against peels extract grip. Great interplay, composition. Long, well balanced aftertaste. Delivers indeed. Oh, boy! Is this going to prove useful at the table! 16.4. WT061610-11. 07 BEARBOAT SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Rich, sweet oak, vanilla, and evolving pinot fruit. Pinot black cherry and tea gets through the wood tones. It’s developing bouquet. This is certainly more advanced than it was at the trade show last fall./ Oak, spices, vanilla. Generous. Lots of tea. Some strawberry. Certainly more open and generous than last fall. Liked by the group. 16.1. WT061610-12. 08 VENTOUX TERRASSES, CHATEAU PESQUIE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe for 08, but without quite the aromatic breadth of the 07. Deep raspberry and strawberry aromas. Sweet fruited./ Pepper and garrigue chime in on the palate. Surely ripe enough for 08. Cherry, spice, pitch, fennel, red fruits. Very fruity and easy to drink already. Well liked by the group. 16.0+. WT061610-13. 08 BARBERA D’ASTI, TORLASCO - (ITALY) Tar and black peppercorn. Real and racy barbera. Dry, edgy, traditional./ Rather 08 light bodied for the price but has classic, meal-worthy barbera style, acid, vigor. Panache too. And it’s not mussed up by oak and ambition. Liked by the group. 16.2+. WT061610-14. 08 FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Sweet 08 fruit with good wood and reserva time in wood to temper the fruit richness and to add complexity. Perfect 08 reserva./ Yes, warm spices, vanillin, bountiful 08 fruit. Good power and dryness. Yes! At least as good as past vintages. Enjoyed by the New World wine fans (there were several this evening) and not so much by the Europhiles. 16.9+. WT061610-15. 07 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO RISERVA, CANTINA ZACCAGNINI - (ITALY) Yes! The Zaccagnini full Monte fruitcake goodness. Raisin, plum, citron, maraschino cherry. Sweet and large. Old time. Delivers./ Lots of bright fresh as well as dried fruits, both red and black. Including raspberries. Smooth tannin. Ready to enjoy. 16.7+. WT061610-16. 08 PETER LEHMANN BAROSSA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) I’m liking many of the 08 Aussie reds. Seem plump like the Argentine 08 malbecs. Not mean like the 08 Chile stuff. Nino, nina? Fat fruit here. Lots of spice and sur-maturite. Braised raspberries. Wisp of lavender. Barossa generous but not over the top fulsome or powerful./ Flows with sweet ease. Good acidity and astringency to foil the richness. One of the best
vintages of this. May be better than the Spectator 92 2006. 16.2+. WT061610-17. 08 NIERSTEINER HIPPING RIESLING SPATLESE, G-A SCHNEIDER - (GERMANY) Oh, boy! Nierstein Rheinfront all over the place! Tangerine, peach, terroir grip. Lots of 08 extract. And fine, hands-off, reductive winemaking./ Sweet and racy both, with grip too. Fabulous balance of the essential elements. And botrytis to boot! Fearless, no-holds-barred spatlese. This delivers the goods. 17.8+. WT061610-18. 08 SANTA ALICIA LATE HARVEST LIMARI VALLEY MUSCATEL half bottle - (CHILE) Strong, bright, warm, sweet, lush, creamy. Big botrytis expressions: honey, apricot, tobacco. Also lychee, orange peel, candied citrus, flowers./ Yowsa! Sweet honey, apricot, tea, and tobacco botrytis definitions. Boasts precision as well as unctuosity. Lemon-tinged acidity. Another winner in this series. 16.8+.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010 WT060910-01. 08 DRY CREEK VINEYARD SONOMA FUME BLANC - (U.S.) Tart and shrill, with some minerality. Attractive–they’ve always done well with this./ Peach and grass flavors. Quite powerful, as California sauvignons are apt to be. Serve well chilled. 15.8. WT060910-02. 08 ALSACE PINOT BLANC, A. SCHERER - (FRANCE ALSACE) Fresh, lively, incisive, upbeat. Aromatic apple varieties. Suave, ripe apple and pear with a soupcon of honey./ Delicious sweet, juicy apple taste. Lively, lovely. Lots of citrus and spice. Good dryness, grip, and acidity of 08, with a certain pinot blanc tenderness too. Yes, has a mellow side. Fine length! Wide ranging mealtime apps. Even invites quaffing.
Well liked by the group. 16.4. WT060910-03. 08 ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER, A. SCHERER - (FRANCE ALSACE) Elegant, perfumed, cold cream aroma. Rose, lychee, sachet, talc, orange, ginger. Scherer finesse shows./ Taste of Turkish delight. Plus quince and mango. Surprising degree of residual sweetness for Scherer and 08. It’s not just glycerol. Say, 1.5% RS? Oh, but there’s good acid foil. Especially for gewurz. The Scherer wines always have good acidity. The
acidity and flavors cling to the palate and linger long. Yes! 16.4+. WT060910-04. 09 PORTUGAL FAMEGA ROSE, CAVES DA CERCA - (PORTUGAL) Really quite fizzy, like a young Vinho Verde. Candied fruit aroma. Strawberry. Red pop like./ Fizzy, light, easy. Strawberry and melon rind. A playful little thing. Genuinely dry though. Good balance. Multi-purpose. 15.2. WT060910-05. 09 YECLA ROSE, BODEGAS CASTANO - (SPAIN) 85% monastrell and 5% each grenache, syrah, and cabernet. Taut, ripe, dark fruits and berries. Some peels edge. Quite full, even powerful./ There’s still a little gas in this, as if it’s still working. This brings forth some brown apple tones. By Saturday, this had all cleared up, blown off, and the wine smelled and tasted wholesome and correct. 15.0+. WT060910-06. 09 COTES DE PROVENCE ROSE, JULES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Lithe, refined Provence style, with lovely floral essence and red fruit expression./ Polished, reserved, elegant, and well scented in the mouth. Good race, edge, acidity, texture. Lithe indeed. Right. Well liked by the group. 16.2. WT060910-07. 09 SALENTO MASSERIA MASSARO NEGROAMARO ROSA, L’ASTORE - (ITALY) Sweet and berry like fruit. Comes right at ya!/ Great acidity from the south. Never a problem for Italian winemakers no matter how warm the climate, it seems. Possibly, choice of varietals clinch it. Well balanced, with a smoothness from alcohol or glycerol. Great length. Some in the group thought this rather bold for a rose–more like a red wine.
I was on the side that did not feel this way. Well liked by all regardless. I wish more fresh Italian roses would come our way. Italy’s as good at them as Med France and Spain. 16.8. WT060910-08. 09 TAVEL ROSE, CHATEAU DE TRINQUEVEDEL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich, bold, sweet, fruity, heady. Strawberry, cranberry, and other red core fruits./ Full, even powerful, though the alcohol was no more than most of the others. It’s just that Tavel always has great presence–plenty of everything. The good, dry, stalwart style of the estate. Solid and assertive; even a trace of tannin. This really delivers, and
will improve for a year in bottle. Tavel’s one of the few roses I’d rather drink in year two than year one. Well liked by the group, though the Tavel style was a little powerful for some. Most agreed it had potential to improve in bottle. 16.9+. WT060910-09. 08 PAVIA PINOT NOIR, MERIDIAN - (ITALY) Crisp and dark and cool indeed. Peels here. Well done./ Fresh and tarry/peelsy, with a pretty face too. Elegance, lift, brightness. Some oak vanillin, it seems. Wine of place. Like the Cavit and the Sartori pinots from Pavia that we’ve enjoyed in the past. 15.9. WT060910-10. 08 DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI, PODERI DE LUIGI EINAUDI - (ITALY) Brooding, stoic, black and smoky. Pleasantly deep./ Big, solid, reticent. Some brett. Lots of peels extract. Not a lot of sweet fruit formation yet. Requires faith. Liked by the group. 15.3+. WT060910-11. 08 BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD ESCUDO ROJO VALLE CENTRAL RED - (CHILE) Old time Chile here. Grass, underbrush, pencil lead. Light on the fruit./ More fruit on the palate though. Good with the indigenous cuisine. 15.6. WT060910-12. 07 RODNEY STRONG SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Very sweet and oaky. Cedar, sawdust, caramel. High strung. The 07 fruit abundance works to counter the oak some, but it remains in command yet./ Vanilla oak. Very powerful and assertive. Needs time for the fruit to well up, the oak to settle in. OK with BBQ ribs now though. 15.4+. WT060910-13. 05 MIDNIGHT CELLARS CRESCENT PASO ROBLES ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Oak, Paso roast and ripeness, 05 firm figure./ Plenty of wood and fruit. Black fruits, jam, prune. Dry and evolving, while holding to some 05 structure and tannin still. Useful now. Slim possibilities for improvement. 15.6. WT060910-14. 01 BACALHOA COLHEITA MOSCATEL DE SETUBAL - (FORTIFIED) Well, this was #1 on all lists. Candied orange peel, flowers, white raisin, peach, honey, fig, date, molasses, brown spices, coffee, caramel, bakery smells. Dare I say ‘complex’? Total Setubal./ Lots of Indian spices too. Sweet, strong, vigorous, balanced. Oh, my! Just an incredible value! 18.4.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010 WT060210-01. 08 VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO RONDOLINO, TERUZZI & PUTHOD - (ITALY) Full. Expressive. The right stuff. Good richness and vitality. Apple, quince, stone. Brisk as well as full./ Yes, the 08 yin-yang of body and vigor. Flavorful. Dense and silky, with finely tuned acid and lacings of mineral and almond. One of the best vernaccias I’ve had in some time. Of course, this is one of the best sources. Well liked
by the group. 16.5+. WT060210-02. 08 LUGANA, TENUTA ROVEGLIA - (ITALY) Fabulous. Pungent. The real deal in trebbiano di lugana. Northern briskness. Perky fruits. Firm apple and pear, and yellow berries./ Juicy. Full. Large and flavorful. Melon and ripe peach. Both succulent and racy thanks to a combo of acid and glycerol. Nice depth. Subtle stony edge. Great juice. Crisp and refreshing. Really mouthwatering. Surpasses the high standard set
by the 07. Well liked by the group. 16.7. WT060210-03. 08 WINKELER GUTENBERG RIESLING KABINETT HALBTROCKEN, KRAYER - (GERMANY) Sprightly. Dark toned, full figured 08. Grip and dry extract. Green grape tone of 08. Crisp, piquant citrus. Peach and loquat. Rocks galore. Uplifting./ Off dry. Good acidity. Juicy. Red fruit as well as white, especially red currant. Mealtime selection. 16.4. WT060210-04. 09 VOUVRAY SILEX, DOMAINE DES AUBUISIERES - (FRANCE LOIRE) Good grip. Great edge for warm 09. Quince, pear, lime, calcaire./ Oh, boy! Rich, deep, lush feel with nice culling stony edge. Really great grip, edge, extract. Lots of calcaire. Totally dry–nothing sec tendre about it. However, it is not austere, just nicely dry. Well liked by the group. 17.0+. WT060210-05. 08 CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Well, this is worth tasting again, because in November it was really tight compared to the wonderful 07 at its later stages. Now it’s fuller and richer. Some wood? Or maybe just the sauvignon gris peels extracts giving that impression. Semillon heft too. Wow! Really penetrates!/ Wow, indeed! Full of sauvignon gris and perhaps some barrel contributions.
Plump, dense, juicy fruit. Notions of pear, peach, passion fruit, and guava. Delivers in spades. 16.6+. WT060210-06. 08 TRAVIS MONTEREY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Unfiltered, unoaked. 75% Scheid Vineyard, 25% Riverview Vineyard. Lots of Monterey chardonnay lemon-lime, including peels. Advancing bouquet./ Full. Developing. Strong, edgy Monterey chardonnay. Butterscotch and other empyreumatic tones. Packs a punch. Needs food. 15.5. WT060210-07. 09 WIRRA WIRRA MRS. WIGLEY MCLAREN VALE GRENACHE ROSE - (AUSTRALIA) Sweet, easy, sassy Aussie style. No edges./ Ripe and juicy. Big berry flavors. Soft, with plenty of power to balance the richness. The acid’s OK too, and there’s some red peels astringency. Weighty. Fills the mouth. Large and long. Here’s a crowd-pleasing rose I could take to a BBQ. 16.5. WT060210-08. 09 COSTIERES DE NIMES LES GALETS ROSE, DOMAINE MOURGUES DU GRES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Big and beautiful. Sassy, sweet-tart, vibrant. Strawberry and raspberry. Red pop like./ Yes, sweet-tart indeed. Cranberry, raspberry, Jolly Rancher strawberry hard candy. Very flavorful. Good strength. And good acidity for a warm vintage. Well balanced. And long. Well liked by the group. 16.7. WT060210-09. 08 KIM CRAWFORD MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR - (NEW ZEALAND) Light-hearted, sweet, uncomplicated. Cherry. Taut berry, and tea. And some brett./ Full, lush, fruity, expressive, elegant. Good NZ acidity. Both racy and rich. Juicy and flavorful. A tantalizing wine. 16.7+. WT060210-10. 08 FETZER VALLEY OAKS CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet and sassy. Lots of oak spice, cigar box, and vanilla. In the beginning, this covers up the fruit. But the fruit will not be denied, breaking out into sweet merlot cherry goodness. The whole presentation is awfully naughty./ Yes, sweet, sexy cherry and oak spice flavors. Layers them on, lays them on thick. Wow! Long, sweet, spicy aftertaste. Best Fetzer
merlot yet, and quite a contrast from the sullen nature of many a young 08 California red. Someone brought a briny pecorino cheese. Salt calls for sweet in my book, and this wine (as well as the final three) worked well with it. 16.4. WT060210-11. 06 CHIANTI RISERVA, VILLA PUCCINI - (ITALY) Begins with a basic presentation of baked red fruits. Ah, but that’s not all! Expands to show fresh red fruit too. Bright red cherry sangiovese fruit. Some time in oak evident–clearly a riserva. Now come the orange peel and anise aspects of sangiovese./ Yes, and there’s a peppery spiciness too. Flavors of oak, time in oak, and the full sangiovese range. Ripe, lush,
intense, generous, come hither. Finishes with sweet, dried fruits. So this is up to 06 and riserva standards, for sure. Yes! Well liked by the group. 16.7+. WT060210-12. 09 CHIANTI RISERVA, TIZIANO - (ITALY) Smoky. These usually have a smoky-woody aspect. There’s some reduction here too, which is unusual for a riserva. A little confused as to its direction at the moment./ Big, dense, oaky, still rather gangly. Good acidity. The oak is still a little much. Needs bottle age and food. 15.6+. WT060210-13. 08 YECLA MONASTRELL, CASTANO - (SPAIN) The usual sweet and sassy style even in dark-tempered 08. 08 blackness for sure. Plenty of depth. Purple fruit of mourvedre with southern warmth and ripeness. Lots of green olive and hint of licorice./ Yes! A burst of ripe fruits and exotic spices. Great acidity too. Delicious balance. And value. Well liked by the group. 16.6+. WT060210-14. 07 JUMILLA MONASTRELL, JUAN GIL - (SPAIN) This is fabulous. Great, sweet, aloof, classy, fine oaked. Sweet purple berry monastrell too. Wow!/ Lush and savory, deep and juicy, with licorice and wood smoke aura. Cream, vanilla, cocoa. Fine oak spice and incense perfumes. Delicious acidity, fine tannin. Long and classy finish. Best yet? 17.4+. WT060210-15. 08 RIDGE THREE VALLEYS SONOMA RED - (U.S.) American oak and proud of it. Ridge knows American oak. Solid oak and fruit. Large, without being impolite. The full ripeness of Ridge zins of late./ Openly ripe but sturdy and vigorous fruit. Very spicy, ripe berry taste. Hoisin sauce extras.. Big and chewy constitution. One of the best in the series. Long and complex. Well liked by the group. 17.0+. WT060210-16. 09 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING SPATLESE, ST. ANTONIIUS - (GERMANY) Nice and zingy. Tingles the nostrils as usual. Stimulating, like an 08. Apple, quince, peach, lemon peel./ Yes, Kreuznach toned riesling fruit, with peach, orange, tropics, and flowers. Up front, polished, pretty. Carries the torch for this fine series. Yes! Liked by the group. 16.8+. WT060210-17. 09 KREUZNACHER KRONENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE, ST. ANTONIUS - (GERMANY) Oh, boy! Bigger and more tingly still! Wow! HUGE extract. Stone fruits, honeydew./ Oh, gads! HUGE mouthful of peach, orange, orange peel. Unctuous. Power and depth. One HUGE auslese. The group couldn’t find the acid in this, so preferred the spatlese. I reminded them that acidity is masked by sweetness in young auslesen. They got this one
wrong. A champion in this great series. 17.4+. WT060210-18. 09 BANROCK STATION SE AUSTRALIA MOSCATO - (AUSTRALIA) Sultry bulb flower perfumes. Lots of apple and loquat./ Sweet and soft. Low alcohol. Fizz pinch hits for acid, giving a refreshing edge. Good value for sure. 16.0.
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