|
||
|
Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- June, 2005 |
Use your browser print function to print this page. |
|
Wednesday, June 29, 2005 wt062905-01. 04
CHATEAU LE GRAND MOULIN, COTES DE BLAYE BLANC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Fresh, and already accomplished. The grapefruit,
gooseberry, and mineral tang of sauvignon. The figginess, the plumpness,
the waxy-creaminess of semillon too./ Clear and accurate Bordeaux
blanc fruit set. Well balanced. Will not fail to please. 16.0. wt062905-02. 04
CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Good lime note here, likely from the muscadelle component.
Gives it a lot of brightness, freshness, vigor, uplift./ Crisp apple,
melon, and lime flavors. High-toned, stylish, piquant, vibrant.
Well balanced. 16.2. wt062905-03. 03
CHATEAU COURONNEAU CUVEE PIERRE CARTIER, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Now here comes the barrel-aged cuvee.
Just a kiss of oak, really. Just the right degree for a young wine.
Elegant citrus, apple, and ripe pear aromas. Fresh and crisp for
an 03. Not at all overripe and mushy./ Vanilla and warm spices from
the oak–very nice display. Good balance–very good for 03. Plumpness
and mild acidity betray the warm vintage, but it’s all agreeable.
And the oak adds force and structure. Good body, depth, and, in
retrospect, charm. 16.3. wt062905-04. 03
COUSINO MACUL MAIPO VALLEY CHARDONNAY
- (CHILE) Lively, nutty oakiness to complement fresh peach, apple,
and loquat fruit. Taut acid beam. Good minerality./ Lovely, racy
oak again, and fresh, apple-lemon chardonnay fruit with some malolactic
creaminess. Settling into a comfortable stage. 15.5. wt062905-05. 04
COTES DE THONGUE SYRAH ROSE, LES VIGNERONS MONTBLANC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet, ripe, bright strawberry,
red raspberry, cranberry, tea, rosemary, and mint aromas. Pungent,
able, seductive. Just bursting with fruit. Just right./ Heaps of
flavor too. Fine depth of flavors. Lively, racy. Good sweet-acid
balance keeps it fresh and refreshing. Lip-smackin’ good. 16.2. wt062905-06. 03
ANJOU MARONIS, CHATEAU DE LA ROULERIE
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Dazzling red-raspberry Loire cabernet franc nose.
Big, full, demonstrative. Northern cool, and just ripe enough./
Great Loire cabernet franc flavor range of raspberry, fruit peels,
cocoa, and licorice. Dry and full. Great acidity. Intense, rich,
tannic, generous, fully packed. Age it. 16.4+. wt062905-07. 02
BRANCOTT RESERVE MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR
- (NEW ZEALAND) Fine oak seasonings and cool, snappy pinot noir
in harmony. Lush black cherry and wood-smoke. Totally pinot, plump,
juicy, Burgundian./ Nice sweet fruit with tart cool-climate acidity
to balance. Flavors of spiced cherry and vanilla oak. Fine depth.
Well-fashioned, complete cool-climate pinot. 16.4. wt062905-08. 02
CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BARRIQUES, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Fresh, bright, clear-cut, well delineated
claret fruit set. All three varieties evident, and they complement
one another. Good oak. Both oak and fruit show finesse./ Handsome,
elegant, well crafted. Well textured. Fine depth of flavor. Good
oak. Good acidity. Not too tannic. Good winemaking here. Hey, this
isn’t just a good Left Bank vintage. We’ve had several commendable
Right Bankers already. 16.4. wt062905-09. 02
FIRESTONE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.)
Nice sweet, toasty oak and sweet fruit in harmony. A lovely presentation./
Again, there’s a delicious harmony to this wine. It’s so comfortable;
no edges. Velvety merlot texture. I can see the high marks. 16.2. wt062905-10. 98
COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE PESQUIER - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Full. Really shows the 98 bulk, as have other 98s
we’ve tasted over the last year–from Midi right up to Chateauneuf.
Lots of licorice, as in all of them./ Licorice, underbrush, tobacco,
leather, mushrooms in cream, dried fruit. Well developed bouquet
and flavor sets. 15.5. wt062905-11. 03
COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE PAS DE LA BEAUME
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 76% grenache, 8% each syrah, carignan,
cinsaut - Lots of flair and aromatic woods and barks. And berries
and garrigue. Syrah raspberry and grenache strawberry. High toned
and racy./ Deliciously snappy, with cool fragrances. Red and black
raspberries, garrigue, and olives. Fine structure. A definite value.
16.3. wt062905-12. 03
VACQUEYRAS LES CALADES, DOMAINE DE LA MONARDIERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, special! Lavender, peppercorn,
garrigue abundance. Complete Vacqueyras. Very fresh and cool for
03./ Palate seconds all. Shows mass, concentration, full texture,
extract, and penetrating depth. Great acidity, fine tannins. A meaty
mouthful of Vacqueyras. Beautifully poised for the future. Has it
all. Best of this cuvee I’ve tasted. 17.0+. wt062905-13. 03
BULLETIN PLACE SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Fresh, warm berry-bramble-briar. Plummy-sweet. 03 cool herbaceous
background./ Fresh and balanced. Sweet, saturated, and accomplished
berry ripeness. Good acidity. Good value. Beats a lot of much more
expensive 03s. 15.5+. wt062905-14. 03
MONTEVINA AMADOR BARBERA - (U.S.) Deep,
intense, rich, lively, true barbera nose. Light oak touch. Meaty,
balanced, real./ Yes, this speaks barbera. There’s cherry and licorice.
And nut and chocolate. Lively, racy, and with enough stuffing to
satisfy. I suspect this will also improve for a couple of years.
15.9+. wt062905-15. 03
DON RODOLFO VINA CORNEJO COSTAS CAFAYATE TANNAT
- (ARGENTINA) Special. Flowers and berries. Cool and concentrated.
Liqueur-like. Like a Dalmatian cherry liqueur./ Indeed, there’s
liqueur-level intensity and richness. And fine racy edge. Not too
tannic for tannat. Good warm-climate tannat. Nice definition of
the variety as expressed in these parts. 16.2. wt062905-16. 03
MURPHY-GOODE LIARS DICE SONOMA ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Good American oak and Alexander Valley ripe zinfandel fruit.
Very ripe raspberries, intense and pure. And dark chocolate and
mocha. An All-American classic./ Shows both power and beauty. Plenty
of punch. Vigorous, fine-grained tannins. Surely as good as the
02, and in the same style. 16.6. wt062905-17. 03
WACHAU TERRASSEN FEDERSPIEL RIESLING, DOMAINE WACHAU - (AUSTRIA) Fresh, beautiful riesling aromatic set of
flowers, pear, citrus, and talc. Nice taut reserve./ Add honey and
sweet grains to the aroma set. Both rich and racy. Finely focused.
Well extracted. Very vigorous for 03. Austrian riesling fulfilled.
Great example, and excellent value. Great dinner riesling. 16.7.
Wednesday, June 22, 2005 wt062205-01. 04
FENN VALLEY LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE CHARDONEL
- (U.S.) Very fresh, cool aromas of apple and peel. Flower, pear,
and lemon highlights. Great cut and vigor. Some powder-puff fermentation
wisps still./ Cool, green-apple crispness. Fresh, vibrant, piquant,
juicy. At least as good as the 03. Perhaps a little more stuffing
here even. Will fill further over the coming summer months. 16.0+. wt062205-02. 04
PINE RIDGE CLARKSBURG CHENIN BLANC-VIOGNIER
- (U.S.) Fine chenin expressions of melon, golden delicious, and
citrus. Viognier pear and flowers in the background. Skillfully
rendered to get both fruits in balance. Otherwise, the fragrant
viognier could easily dominate this cuvee./ Dry, with a nice dash
of viognier astringency. Both plump and penetrating. Very fresh,
and already accomplished as well. Juicy and flavorful. 16.2. wt062205-03. 03
MCWILLIAMS HANWOOD ESTATE SE AUSTRALIA CHARDONNAY - (AUSTRALIA) Big and butter-creamy. Plenty fresh still.
Fabulous oaky-smoky-toasty French-oak expressiveness. Ripe apple-citrus-tropical
Aussie chardonnay./ Vanilla oak flavor, with crisp apple-citrus
brightness. Both juicy and mellow. Nicely balanced. At an attractive
stage. 16.0. wt062205-04. 02
REYNOLDS RESERVE ORANGE CHARDONNAY - (AUSTRALIA)
Nice tawny-orange maturity. Good toasty oak. Rich in fruit and oak.
Shows its high-altitude, cool-climate origins./ Full and flavorful.
Mature nuttiness. Balance of power and fruit sweetness. Good oak
integration. Comfortable in its maturity. 15.6. wt062205-05. 04
PAVILION NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Oh! This is much better than the 03! Both fresh and already accomplished.
Apples in cream. Lively citrus highlights. Rich and bright at once.
Napa class./ Cool and clear apple and light oak. Hints of pear,
honeydew, slate. Napa finesse. Good value. 15.8+. wt062205-06. 04
MORGAN METALLICO MONTEREY CHARDONNAY -
(U.S.) Cool, green citrus peel Monterey chardonnay style defined.
Nice, transparent oak patina. Nose continues to fill with airing.
Green apple and lemon./ Fresh, new, lightly-imparted oak flavor
seasoning very crisp Monterey chardonnay fruit. Already showing
grainy richness, class, and depth. Defines Monterey chardonnay,
really. 16.0+. wt062205-07. 03
NAVARRA GARNACHA-TEMPRANILLO, OCHOA -
(SPAIN) Rich and warm expression of a ripe vintage. The tempranillo
is cooly northern–real Navarra tempranillo. Purple-fruited, young,
and fresh, this is already nicely fulfilled./ Racy and cool garrigue
nuances compliments of the grenache. Both lush and juicy. Flavors
of cherry, tobacco, olive, and underbrush. Nice and vigorous for
a ripe vintage thanks to its Navarra origins. Good summer red. Well
liked by the group. 15.8+. wt062205-08. 03
MCWILLIAMS HANWOOD ESTATE SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) As in the chardonnay, lavish oak, fine oak. The fruit
is vigorous, if not identifiably varietal./ Plush, full, variegated
shiraz berry-herb. 15.2. wt062205-09. 01
BARBARESCO TORRE, PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO
- (ITALY) Solid black fruits, firm and reserved. Airs and opens
to a complex of dried berries and cherries, flowers, leather, smoked
meat, tobacco, charcoal, and mushrooms./ Equally wide-ranging flavor
complex, high toned and exotic, with additions of rawhide, smoke,
anise, and grappa. Lots of impact, lots of depth. And a graceful,
floral mien too, for which 01 is noted. Lots of entertainment value
already, and it’s still just a babe. 17.8+. wt062205-10. 04
KUNSAG TOPPEDT BLAUFRANKISCH AUSBRUCH, DONAUSONNE - (HUNGARY) Fresh aromas of minerals and fruit peels.
Good fruit. Smells like a dry table wine. Cool, tart cherry, pomegranate,
oolong tea./ There’s sweetness, though not a lot. Ausbruch cannot
be directly translated to Auslese. A cool, racy red of refreshing
acidity and bright cherry flavor. Plump and playful. A quaffer,
really. Probably can be chilled, though that might bring out some
latent tannin. Fairly priced. 15.5. wt062205-11. 02
CARMES DE RIEUSSEC, SAUTERNES half bottle
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Good and lush in honey-dipped pineapple, coconut,
and lemon. Powerful. Light oak touches of vanilla, caramel, and
wood spices../ Very rich and fat and creamy. Flavors confirm aromas
and add high-toned peach-apricot. The oak is spicy and gives texture.
As does the great extract concentration. Acidity is sufficient but
somewhat coated at present. Huge concentration, really. Muscular.
Loaded. Seamlessly knit young Sauternes. Everything one would expect
of the Grand Vin sans the botrytis. As good as many Rieussecs of
the 60s and 70s. I love this vintage. Thoroughly respected by the
group. 17.2+.
Wednesday, June 15, 2005 wt061505-01. 03
FRASCATI SUPERIORE, PONTE TEVERE - (ITALY)
Reasonably fresh still for a Frascati of this age. At a pretty attractive
stage at any rate. Has filled out to a full texture. Aromas of fig,
walnut, papaya, and bread ball../ The fruit-and-nut flavor’s not
bad either, but the wine’s a bit more alcoholic than I like Frascati,
likely because of the warmth of the vintage. I’d prefer it a little
fresher too. Nonetheless, there’s a bright, tangy citrus feel to
it still. Calm, cool, composed, pretty. Good enough. 14.5. wt061505-02. 03
VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO, LAGARIA - (ITALY)
Fine, fresh, vigorous, stylish. Apple, melon, nut–it’s pinot grigio!
Rich and full. Sleek, supple, candid, and amiable./ Yes, the fruit
is lavish and the body full, while the wine retains a lively, refreshing
quality. Ideal, really. And a value. 15.9. wt061505-03. 04
SERDEGNA VERMENTINO COSTAMOLINO, ARGIOLAS
- (ITALY) Whoa! Comin’ at ya! The most pungent vermentino I’ve ever
smelled. Flowers, citrus, talc, and laurel. Wow!/ Plump, pungent,
and floral. White fruits, nuts, straw, resin, bitter orange, tonic.
Distinctive–almost Byzantine--in its broad, aromatic display. Good
enough acidity; it will show even better over the coming months–a
little coated for now. Good alcohol level for body without detracting
from refreshment. Well liked by the group for now drinking. I think
it’s still somewhat in the formative stage and will get better and
better as the summer progresses. 16.3+. wt061505-04. 04
SICILIA GRILLO, FEUDO ARANCIO - (ITALY)
Full and lemony. Med lemons like in Italian lemon liqueurs. Great
Sicilian warmth. Great varietal definition./ Flavorful, warm, southern.
Attractive strength for body and presence. Good thickness of fruit
and texture to give mealtime satisfaction. Grillo fulfilled. I’m
glad we’ve on to the 04. Judging by this vintage, I think the wine
is best in its first year. Well considered by the group. 15.5. wt061505-05. 03
MARTIN RAY ANGELINE NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Oak, minerals, citrus fruit, and lightly floral perfume.
Gathering some bouquet./ Good and rich texture, with light oak burnish.
Sweetish aftertaste. Wholesome. Not a bad value. 15.0. wt061505-06. 03
AQUINAS NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Much more oak here, and it’s good oak (toast, vanilla, caramel),
and it’s integrated. Plenty of apple and citrus chardonnay characteristics,
and a ripe nectarine note. Napa’s cool, aloof bearing./ Crisp and
classy. A slick chick. Fresh. Light malo creaminess. Ideal balance.
A better value. Well liked by the group. 16.0. wt061505-07. 02
CLOS LA CHANCE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) More ambitious. More oak. More time in oak. More maturity.
Flush and warm. Toast, wood smoke, butterscotch. Very handsome./
Rich fruit and class French oak seasonings. Good Burgundian mouthful
of chardonnay. Yes! Well admired by the group. 16.5. wt061505-08. 02
RIESLING KAEFFERKOPF GRAND CRU GRANIT, MARTIN SCHAETZEL - (FRANCE ALSACE) Good, tight-laced riesling nose. Peach,
apricot, honey, flowers. And stony, metamorphic terroir form and
texture./ Great framework and minerality. Stony. Grip of 02. Love
the dry matter, the extract. The fruit is VT ripe and plump, and
the mineral lacings keep it dry and vigorous. Big wine. Commanding
wine. Distinguished wine. Auslese trocken. 17.5. wt061505-09. 03
COTE DE BROUILLY GRAND CRU, CHATEAU THIVIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Wow! Intense, spicy, perfumed. Red berries (raspberry,
strawberry) and incense. Bold, vibrant, forceful, self-assured.
Penetrating, uplifting./ Pure raspberry flavor. Spice and flair
too. Great acidity. Plenty of texture and material. Strikingly dense,
concentrated, vigorous mouthful. A beauty. I’ve never tasted a Beaujolais
vintage like this before and never expect to again. Larger than
life. Worth the premium. Enjoy them while they’re still around.
Cellar a handful for the experience. 17.1. wt061505-10. 03
VENEZIE MERLOT, LAGARIA - (ITALY) A rare
adequately-ripe NE Italy merlot thanks to 03. Plum and peel. Some
leather. Merlot florals and herbals./ Fruit and flair. Ripe enough
and showing legitimate cool-climate merlot personality. Like a Loire
merlot would taste if you could find one. 15.0. wt061505-11. 03
APRILIA MERLOT, PONTE TEVERE - (ITALY)
More warmth here. Certainly from farther south. Warm spices, lavender,
and a woody patina. Powerful, bombastic nose of chocolate-raspberry
creme patisserie./ Rich and somewhat ruddy animal warmth. Good southern
merlot. Thick and meaty. Ripe merlot cherry cough drop. Big-textured.
Good acidity. Big mealtime merlot. This delivers. Well liked by
the group. 15.8. wt061505-12. 03
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, UMANI RONCHI
- (ITALY) Shows the class of the varietal. Violets, plum, rich peel
extract. Well above the level of the jug MdAs./ Rich extract, body,
acid, penetrating flavor, texture, vinosity. Fine depth. Well balanced,
fulfilling presentation. Will age nicely too. 15.9+. wt061505-13. 01
UMBRIA TRESCONE, LAMBORGHINI - (ITALY)
Deep, intense, concentrated, penetrating black fruits and fine oak
seasoning. A bit reduced yet. Airs of mint and camphor./ Fine oak
and rich, polished fruit. Dried cherry, sandalwood, savory herbs,
green olive, and leather flavors. Powerful insistent. Young and
chewy, fine tannins. A good, modern central Italian rosso. 16.6+. wt061505-14. 02
BEAULIEU VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Good, honest American oak traditional to this
label. Blackberry and black currant cabernet fruit. Plus dark chocolate,
orange zest, black pepper, berry jam. Strong delivery./ Rich in
both oak and forward 02 cabernet fruit. Full alcohol, body. Definitely
the 02 attributes. The strengths of the 01 are structure and acidity.
Both commendable Napa cabernet vintages. Shows tremendous ability.
16.3+. wt061505-15. 01
BEAULIEU VINEYARD TAPESTRY NAPA VALLEY RED
- (U.S.) Wow! Intricate, complex, fruity, romantic, airy, floral,
spicy. Violets and cool aromatic woods. Great intensity and variegation
of expression./ Again, rich and rangy. Really complex, layered,
ambitious, loaded. Tremendous depth and penetration. Lots of class
here...and an extreme degree of fruit yumminess. A bargain, really.
This rocks! Well liked by the group. 17.5+. wt061505-16. 02
CLOS LA CHANCE CENTRAL COAST SYRAH - (U.S.)
Yes! Wow! They’re finally beginning to get the gist of syrah in
Calif. Here are the flowers that are missing from so many of the
dullards. Vanilla frosting too–good oak contribution. And light
woody seasonings. Ripe fruit adds a fruitcake aroma. Calif syrah
thickness and great depth./ Rich constitution. Berry, flower, peppercorn.
Class as well as density. Good acidity–really Rhonish. Rich and
generous, most fulfilling. Great price! 16.7. wt061505-17. 03
SOBON ESTATE HILLSIDE AMADOR ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Wow! Huge perfume of raspberry, briar, peppercorn, and
fine American oak. Brandied berries and orange zest. Stylish, scented./
Easy and lovely flavor range and appeal. Great and lovely texture.
Fine, chewy tannins. Lots of freshness too. Yes! Well liked by the
group. 16.5.
Wednesday, June 8, 2005 wt060805-01. 04
PENINSULA CELLARS UNWOODED OLD MISSION PENINSULA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Pure chardonnay, northern grown. Apple and citrus
to the core. Hint of watermelon rind. Some mineral race too./ Apple
and citrus flavors too. Fine, bracing acidity, good extract. Structure,
texture, facility. A fresh summertime chardonnay, charming, refreshing,
simpatico. Well liked by the group. 15.9. wt060805-02. 02
GUENOC ESTATE GUENOC VALLEY CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Sweet and sassy. Cool and easy. Mild, polished, well integrated
nutty-toasty-creamy oak. Ripe citrus fruit (more orange than lemon)
and nice acid tingle. Peach, apple, and melon too./ Big, dense,
lush, swarthy. A smooth, polished presentation. Wholly harmonious
oak and chardonnay. Very versatile at the table and easy to assimilate.
15.9. wt060805-03. 02
SIMI RESERVE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) A bombshell! Total toast, apple, woodsmoke, and caramel
allure. Irresistible./ Again, very rich in toast, buttercream, and
toffee. Very smooth customer. The oak in totally integrated. No
oak tannin. No heat; no alcohol excess. Large-scaled, confident,
and showing fine depth. I could drink a whole bottle myself, easily.
17.2. wt060805-04. 99
MEURSAULT LES CASSE-TETES VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE CHAVY-CHOUET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Open-grained, spicy oak that, like
cracked pepper, you can feel in your nostrils as well as smell.
Meursault hazelnut, sweet potato, toasted grains, and autumn leaves./
Nice autumnal qualities at this stage. 99 softness meets bright
acidity. Nicely developed, while retaining some original fruit liveliness–just
about where I’d expect it to be. Good at this stage, but can be
aged a year or two further. 16.6. wt060805-05. 02
RIESLING CUVEE THEO, DOMAINE WEINBACH
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Oh, boy! Lovely, aristocratic bouquet of dried
apricot, pear, cedar, and incense. Swells and fills the nostrils.
As nice an Alsace riesling nose as I could wish for./ Sweet and
smooth and immensely flavorful. Add honey, citrus, and minerals
to the aroma set. Very, very long aftertaste that, like the nose,
features aromatic woods as well as fruit. One generous, powerful,
loaded riesling. Outstanding. 17.6. wt060805-06. 02
ELK COVE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Good, intense, cool Oregon pinot aromas of cherry, tea,
tobacco, and oak. Warm-vintage qualities of peppercorn, summer sausage,
and coffee. Shows poise and depth./ Sweet and flavorful fruit. Palate
confirms all aromas and adds a touch of licorice. Good, cool Oregon
pinot acidity and structure. Good, ripe, warm, dense 02 fruit. Fascinating
wine. 16.3. wt060805-07. 01
RIOJA CRIANZA GLORIOSO, BODEGAS PALACIO
- (SPAIN) Opens ripe and rugged. Full and strong. For an 01, very
direct, not at all subtle. Generous for sure–in both fruit and oak–in
balance. Maraschino cherry, red plum, bramble, smoke, cedar, dill,
coconut, and cavendish aromas come forth with airing. And more suppleness
and charm. A proper crianza./ Rich in Rioja glycerol. Rich in fruit
and filling. Good acidity, fine depth. Full-bodied for crianza.
Ideal crianza styling of still-fresh fruit, oak, and time-in-oak
mellowing. Great value. 16.2. wt060805-08. 02
L DE LYETH SONOMA MERLOT - (U.S.) Fine,
stylish oak of the class that’s hard to find at this price. Merlot
cherry, tea, plumpness, and accommodation. Lovely merlot value./
Again, the oak is lilting, gently spicy and aromatic. Good fruit
vigor. You get both fruit and oak displays; neither overwhelms the
other. Fine depth. Complete. A bargain. Well enjoyed by the group.
16.0. wt060805-09. 01
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (AUSTRALIA) Black and intense, forceful, daunting nose
on entry. Dense currant concentrate, with tobacco, bitter chocolate,
pencil-box, tar, and anise notes. Thick, nonetheless clear, pure,
delineated; cool, sleek, and not without subtleties. A great Aussie
cabernet with Coonawarra pedigree and style./ Rich and full, heft,
authoritative. Lots of juice and solid matter. Fine tannin. Another
super bargain. I can see the high ratings. 16.6+. wt060805-10. 01
TABLAS CREEK COTES DE TABLAS PASO ROBLES RED
- (U.S.) Mourvedre, syrah, grenache, counoise - Definite French
styling from the opening curtain. Vivid acid and fruit vigor and
tingle. Spicy, vivacious, nicely integrated melange of southern
Rhone varietals. A peacock’s tail of ripe fruit, aromatic bark,
and spice aromas./ Big volume. Just a blast of ripe fruit, bark,
and spice flavors. Fine acidity, power, dryness. A mouthful. Would
guess French, not New World. 16.8. wt060805-11. 02
QUPE CENTRAL COAST SYRAH - (U.S.) Smells
like syrah all right. Plenty of sweet black fruits, soft and amiable./
Sweet, strong, plentiful. Good acidity. Not for show but for the
table. 16.0. wt060805-12. 02
GEWURZTRAMINER RESERVE PERSONNELLE, DOMAINE WEINBACH - (FRANCE ALSACE) Whoa! Rosewater and glycerin. Honey
and lychee. Peach, apricot, kumquat, mango. Thick, pomaded, perfumed,
dramatic. Has it all./ Vendange tardive concentration. Thick, with
volume and strength, and good acidity for gewurz. Plenty of glycerin–makes
it seem sweet when it really isn’t. 17.3. wt060805-13. 04
MOSCATO D’ASTI SORI GRAMELLA, ELVIO TINTERO
- (ITALY) Pungent, spritzy, mutsu apple, apricot, and flowers nose./
Surging, sweet, and well concentrated melange of ripe white fruits
and flowers and musk. Very clear, even brilliant, flavors. Fizz
and good acidity and freshness balance the considerable sweetness.
Textbook, really. 16.3. wt060805-14. 03
DURKHEIMER MICHELSBERG RIESLING KABINETT, KURT DARTING - (GERMANY) Fresh and vigorous. Much more levity than
the Alsace powerhouses, and relatively muted aromas right after
the Moscato. Peach, sweetmeal, caramel apple, cedar, and sandalwood./
Ripe Pfalz riesling flavors of apricot, grains, and cedar. Spatlese
(at least) weight and style. 16.2+. wt060805-15. 03
RUDESHEIMER MAGDALENENKREUZ RIESLING SPATLESE, JOSEF LEITZ - (GERMANY) Big, chiseled, fine, penetrating edge of
key lime, white peach, and loquat. Full, assertive, sustaining fruit
aromas./ Ripe yet racy. An 03 with structure as well as sweetness.
Golden, aromatic-woods spiciness. Compact core surrounded by auslese-lush
fruit. 17.0+. wt060805-16. 03
ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE, MEULENHOF
- (GERMANY) Bright, green apple-citrus Mosel fruits. And firm pear
and peach. Dense, fully-packed. High auslese must weight./ Peach
pie flavor. Deliciously sweet, fresh, vigorous, young. Regal. Beerenauslese
concentration. Lots of intrigue, potential. What it should be at
this stage. 17.1+.
Wednesday, June 1, 2005 wt060105-01. 04
MONTEVINA CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.)
Very young. Still with fermentation odors of bulb flowers, banana,
and lemon air freshener. Also pear, apple, and touches of apricot
and bubble gum./ Smooth with pinot gris glycerol. Still superficial.
Hasn’t developed depth of flavor, texture, and character yet. There’s
charm and appeal here, but this needs a few months for total fulfillment..
15.6+. wt060105-02. 03
TRINCHERO ESTATE UNFILTERED VISTA MONTONE VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Direct slap of oak to start, followed by mellower
cream and caramel French oak derivatives and malolactic contributions./
Wood toast and caramel. Malo plumpness. A generous, well-crafted,
enjoyment chardonnay for present use. But rather expensive. 16.4. wt060105-03. 04
FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS CALIFORNIA WHITE
- (U.S.) Muscat, chardonnay, chenin blanc - The nose is all muscat:
flowers, perfume; highly scented./ Tenderly sweet and dominated
by muscat flavors. The chardonnay component adds body and an apple
note, and chenin blanc contributes a nice smoothness. 15.5. wt060105-04. 03
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ESTATE SLATESTONE DRY RIESLING, VON SCHLEINITZ - (GERMANY) Crispness of Mosel, ripeness of 03. Peach,
citrus, and flowers aromas./ Plump and tender. The acidity is mild
and the sweetness surely at the upper level of trocken, so the impression
isn’t all that dry. Easy to assimilate. 15.8. wt060105-05. 03
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ESTATE SLATESTONE RIESLING, VON SCHLEINITZ - (GERMANY) More slate, mineral, extract, terroir character.
Aromas of peach, citrus peel, and tea./ More character here; more
sense of place. The extract gives it more texture than the above
and foils whatever residual sweetness there is. So the overall impression
is no sweeter than the above. Much prefer this one. 16.3. wt060105-06. 04
COTES CALALANES ROSE, NINET DE PENA -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe aromas of candied apple and mead. Spice,
earth, and garrigue complex too. And fresh raspberry./ The initial
sense of overripeness fades away, leaving a dry and refreshing,
eminently mealworthy rose palate. Echoes of garrigue. Good structure
and depth. 15.0. wt060105-07. 04
COTEAUX DES PEYRIAC CUVEE DES OLIVIERS ROSE, DOMAINE MASSAMIER LA
MIGNARDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Cinsault,
syrah, grenache - More power, body, texture, depth. Cedar, cherry,
raspberry, and strawberry aromas. Lush, lively, fresh./ Real body
and character here. Dry but plump. Flavorful. Bracing red fruits.
Full impact and depth. Lots of presence and length. This is clearly
the best value of the rose set. 15.9. wt060105-08. 04
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE ROSE, COMMANDERIE DE LA BARGEMONE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) A lighter, more elegant approach.
Lovely, floral, delicate. Touches of cedar and peppercorn. Round
red fruits./ Good body and strength. Less flavor and texture than
the above. But more power and elegance. 15.6. wt060105-09. 03
TAVEL, CHATEAU DE TRINQUEVEDEL - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Shows the extra year and the extra heat. 03 sweetish
nose. More mellow, developed. Very ripe strawberry aroma. Touches
of peppercorn, cherry, and cranberry too./ Power, pungence, and
dryness. Hefty, magnanimous, extreme. Much bigger than any of the
others. Surely a dinner rose. 16.1. wt060105-10. 04
FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS CALIFORNIA ROSE
- (U.S.) Merlot, syrah, gewurztraminer - Weird concept. The nose
is all gewurztraminer, albeit good gewurztraminer./ Sweetish. Gewurztraminer
dominates the flavor. Some feeling and flavor of the red-grape peel
extracts. 15.2, as a gewurz rose. wt060105-11. 03
FOLIE A DEUX MENAGE A TROIS CALIFORNIA RED
- (U.S.) Zinfandel, merlot, cabernet sauvignon - Ripe and racy,
and dominated by sweetish ripe raspberry Amador zinfandel. As it
airs, it makes a seamless transition from zinfandel to merlot to
cabernet. Fine Amador roasted fruit./ Spicy oak plus mocha, chocolate,
and warm and roasted fruit flavors. Sweetish, tangy, and engaging.
15.6. wt060105-12. 03
TRINCHERO CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Toasty,
spicy oak in spades. A sense of ripe fruit but not much varietal
character./ Dry and oaky-spicy. Again, can’t pick out much merlot
character at this stage. Likely the oak will soak in over time.
14.6+. wt060105-13. 03
TRINCHERO CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Fine oak here. Seems some French-oak barrels. Lovely, elegant
berry fruit. Shows class./ Yes, fine oak flavors and textures, plus
cabernet form, framing, tannin. Sweet and spicy-vanilla oak flavors.
Good potential here. Third good vintage in a row for this cuvee.
16.1. wt060105-14. 00
TRINCHERO ESTATE MAIN STREET VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Class cabernet presentation. Deep berry and
currant, with elegant lacings of discreet, sweet oak. Fine./ Both
oak and Napa fruit finesse. I’ve liked this well enough on two past
occasions and like it best now. It’s really filled in any possible
00 holes. Complete 00. 17.0. wt060105-15. 02
MONTEVINA TERRA D’ORO AMADOR BARBERA -
(U.S.) Rough and ruddy barbera bully on the nose. (Might give me
a bloody nose.) Sweet, dried fruit. Cherry and citron. Great acid
perkiness, and good American oak. Real barbera nose./ Lush, hearty
fruit. But the oak is a bit too dominant on the palate and obfuscates
some of the varietal character in this phase. Likely that will subside.
15.8+. wt060105-16. 02
MONTEVINA TERRA D’ORO AMADOR ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Brilliant Amador zin precision, as it’s shown every time
I’ve tasted it. Total Zinfandel./ Rich and variegated fruit and
oak flavors in harmony. Fine balance too of sweetness and acidity
and tannin. Just right. 16.8. wt060105-17. 02
MONTEVINA AMADOR SYRAH - (U.S.) Good oak
and a sense of dark, tart fruit. Good form and power of syrah. Dense,
nicely polished though backward, varietally accurate./ Palate confirms
the full form: the texture, body, and tannin. A little tart at the
end. Good potential here. 15.6+. wt060105-18. 02
MONTEVINA TERRA D’ORO AMADOR SYRAH - (U.S.)
This has a higher class of oak presentation, and there are elegant
senses of syrah–some flowers. And black raspberry, and bacon./ Good
grip and astringency for aging. Fine tannins, solid depth. An elegant
wine with nice varietal flair. Give it the time it deserves. 16.2+.
|
|
|
|
