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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- January, 2008
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Wednesday, January 30, 2008 WT013008-01. 06 PINOT BLANC CUVEE BALTHAZAR, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE ALSACE) Wow! Pungent aroma of hard, cold, cooking-variety apples and pears. Singular, pure, insistent, invigorating, lovely. Opens to reveal nuts and sweeter, riper, even preserved fruits, peach and apricot../ The taste first confirms the original aromas, leaning more toward the pear side. Then the ripe stuff comes on: pineapple and papaya. Full and intense. Good balance of acidity, glycerol, and bare suggestion of sweetness. Unique. Will no doubt gain additional range and depth with a few more months of bottle age. 16.0+. WT013008-02. 06 COTES DU RHONE BLANC , DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sort of nutty and toasty, but there’s no wood influence. It’s all varietals and peels. Muted, exotic fruits on a stony base. Very racy./ Fragrant of garrigue botanicals. Plus yellow fruits, loquat, papaya, and honeysuckle. Good acid, body, balance, poise. Crisp, vigorous finish. Very useful at the table. Well liked by the group. 16.1+. WT013008-03. 06 CHABLIS, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh, pure, and lovely Chablis chardonnay apple and lemon. Granny Smith, quince, and citrus peel. And some flint and calcaire tingle and grip too. Ventilating and well delineated./ Yes, so pure! Touch of cream. Great acid-glycerol, plumpness-cut interplay. Fabulous appeal. I guess it will age well enough, but I can’t resist it now. There may have been more ambitious vintages, but none prettier. Well liked by the group. 16.9. WT013008-04. 06 CHABLIS VAUCOUPIN 1ER CRU, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fuller. More terroir. More intensity and range. All the same, it has the fabulous purity and allure of the village wine. Great depth. Full beauties of apple and lemon custards. Even some elegant floral overtones./ Premier Cru full and rich. Big grip and volume. Tremendous class and largesse. Lots of textural action, stimulation. Wow! Less reticent in youth than most Vaucoupin vintages. Finely tuned and racy finish. Well liked by the group. 17.5. WT013008-05. 01 FREINSHEIMER OSCHELSKOPF RIESLING KABINETT, KASSNER-SIMON - (GERMANY) Wow! 01 crispness and grip. Plenty of freshness still–01s are keepers. Lovely, controlled edelfirne riesling development. Quince, lemon-lime, mineral, nectar. Great framing./ Just the right degree of sweetness for kabinett, although this has the intensity of a spatlese. Juicy and very, very flavorful. Whiles the flavors are evolving, there’s still plenty of original fruit freshness and piquance. Fine sweet-acid balance. Very long, harmonious aftertaste. Drinking fabulous now. Well liked by the group. 16.8. WT013008-06. 01 DURKHEIMER STEINBERG MUSKATELLER KABINETT, KURT DARTING - (GERMANY) Lovely tawny peach and orange, roasted nuts and warm grains aromas. Sweet meal. Intense, penetrating, spicy, succulent. This is Pfalz./ Plenty of sweetness and concentration. Likely of auslese must weight. Fine acidity and citrus peel astringency give relief. Intense, focused, complex. Great value. Well liked by the group. 16.9. WT013008-07. 05 PORTES DE LA MEDITERRANEE BERET FROG, CHATEAU LA CANORGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Intense, saturated, and lovely nose. Full of black fruits, peels, licorice root, smoke, and tar. Large and generous./ Yes, this is really concentrated stuff for the money. Two pounds of fruit in a one-pound package. Big and hearty, but not aggressive. Just gives and gives. Might this be Canorgue’s press wine? Great value. The group thought so too. 15.9+. WT013008-08. 05 COTES DU VENTOUX, DOMAINE DE FONT SANE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very, very pretty. Garrigue range, black pepper, berries, pate. Sweet cherry-berry and chocolate cremes. And Indian spices! Boy, is this an adventure!/ Full berry and garrigue flavor complex. Fresh, but also powerful and gripping. Great acidity for balance. One of the best vintages of this. New label; upscale, I guess. Well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT013008-09. 06 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, elegant, uplifting berries and flowers aromas of cool northern Gard. Intense and cool-fruit oriented. Lots of aromatic range./ Wow! Rich and full fruit presentation. Nice dusting of extract and fine-grained tannins to give textural play and grip. Sweet, engaging, and racy finish. Very popular with the group. 16.4. WT013008-10. 05 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dark and firm and tarry to start. Opens with airing to display plenty of cool-climate fruit and the size and meaty richness of Villages./ Yes, Villages rich and dense. Betwixt and between in terms of development, which renders it less flashy than the younger Cotes du Rhone. No problem. The wine is substantial, well proportioned, and well framed. Better and longer lived than the 04. 16.5+. WT013008-11. 05 SAINT GERVAIS COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, COMAINE SAINTE ANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Well, this is the prettiest young Saint Gervais I’ll tasted. They’re usually pretty surly at this stage. No toughness at all, really. Lots of fruit, floral flair, and complexity./ Wow! Fully fruited, for sure. But also commanding in material content and grip. Distinctive, noble, spicy, vibrant, well proportioned. Sweet and juicy finish. The group was impressed. 16.9+. WT013008-12. 04 VALREAS COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VAL DES ROIS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Warm, savory black and red fruits, dusty earth. Fine combo of beauty, plumpness, grip, and extract./ Great race and fine red fruits. The inherent Burgundy style of Val des Rois’ Romain Bouchard, as well as the full Valreas race. Rich and variegated flavor range. Olive, sage, and flowers nuances. Fine acid-sweetness balance. Opens up so positively that it promises to age well also. 16.6+. WT013008-13. 05 GIGONDAS TRADITION, DOMAINE DE FONT SANE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Textbook Gigondas. Full, demonstrative, and very spicy and revealing. Sweet, ripe, powerful, rangy, loaded. Raspberry, pomegranate, black and white peppercorns, Asian spices, garrigue./ Yes, a rich range of peppercorns and other spices. The size, the power, the stuffing, and the grip of Gigondas. All the many components come forth in harmonious fashion. Very long aftertaste. Super Gigondas value. The group was in awe. 17.8+. WT013008-14. 06 PAVILION NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Cool, fresh, and pure fruit. Nice cabernet grip. Not overly oaky./ Juicy and fine and lasting black and red fruits and berries flavors. Certainly a tasty Napa red that’s long on the finish. This packs enough of a punch to get along in the ring with some of Napa’s big boys. 16.0+. WT013008-15. 07 THE LITTLE PENGUIN WINTER RED SE AUSTRALIA CABERNET-SHIRAZ-MERLOT - (AUSTRALIA) Hearty, sweet, deep, and generous–I can see the name. Some damp earthiness, like a terrarium./ Sweet and simple. Rather glossy–I’d appreciate more depth and texture in a winter red. There are some mulling spices flavors though. Sound and serviceable, even fun, red wine. Has some charm too. 15.0. WT013008-16. 05 GREEN AND RED CHILES MILL VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Pungent American oak. 05 dryness, austerity./ The high alcohol gives sweetness but also heat. Lack of fruit impact and sweetness to counter the strong, dry oakiness. Hot finish. Time? 15.8+? WT013008-17. TREE OF LIFE SEMI-SWEET ARMENIA POMEGRANATE - (FRUIT) True fruit character. Very intense and sweet./ Yes, plenty of sweetness, and also pomegranate acidity. Good juice. 16.0.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008 WT012308-01. 05 COTES DE GASCOGNE GROS MANSENG NUIT D’AUTUMNE, DOMAINE SAN DE GUILHEM - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Nut cream, honey, preserved apple, and peach./ Juicy yellow fruits and kiwi. Great acidity to go with its usual sec tendre sweetness. Not as sweet as some past vintages, especially 03. Definitely food-worthy. Well liked by the group. 16.0+. WT012308-02. 06 CHATEAU LA COUDRAIE, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Jolivet @ Soussac. Apple, pear, and semillon plumpness. Sauvignon liveliness with muscadelle green melon and flower uplift./ Some semillon apple and padding on the palate. Sauvignon bright, fresh relief and muscadelle bitter finish. Racy, penetrating, textured, piquant. Muscadelle’s pretty influential here. I’d guess at least 15% of the cuvee. 16.0. WT012308-03. 06 CHATEAU LABATUT BOUCHARD, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Grower: Mehaye, Winemaker: Bouchard @Saint Maixant. Semillon features plumpness and aromas of apple, wax, and hazelnut./ Tight, dense, young semillon. Good acidity. Needs a few months to flesh out and open up. 15.8+. WT012308-04. 06 MENETOU SALON MOROGUES, DOMAINE HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Discreet and lovely. Floral flairs and waxy-textured concentration./ Fine grip and minerality of 06 extract. Richness, weight, assertion, strength. Sweet fruit and racy acidity. Pungent and persistent. Stellar. One of the best vintages of this cuvee. 16.6+. WT012308-05. 06 MENETOU SALON MOROGUES CLOS DE RATIER, DOMAINE HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) 06 incisiveness coupled with that usual creamy frosting, as if there were some sauvignon gris here. It’s just the clay component of the soil talking. Peach, orange, and soft, fleshy tropical fruits./ Yes, you get the coolness and race of the vintage along with the plumpness and fullness of Ratier. Dry grasses and minerals. Extra
dimensions here compared to the Morogues–worth a premium. Deserves some cellar time. 16.9+. WT012308-06. 06 MENETOU SALON MOROGUES CLOS DE BLANCHAIS, DOMAINE HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Oh, boy! Here’s the Grand Cru! Clos de Blanchais really is one of the Grands Crus of France, even there’s no official stance in its appellation. Deep, racy, calcareous, bold, intense, lasting, penetrating, scintillating. Stately, confident, even haughty./ Rich, full, and gripping. But really defined by great race, refinement,
subtlety, and vigor. Very zesty, lively, grand. 17.2+. WT012308-07. 05 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Fat, soft, sweet, and oaky K-J empire style. Orange, coffee, caramel, butterscotch./ Fat, oaky, toasty, treacly, tawny. Use soon. 15.1. WT012308-08. 06 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Cherry and tea. Sweet cherry, strawberry, black cherry, plum. Cool Sonoma Coast pinot interpretation. Lively nose suggests good acidity./ Rich, with good varietal qualities. Soft touch of aging in seasoned barrels. New World pinot sweetness countered by decent acidity. Plenty to offer. 16.3. WT012308-09. 04 CAHORS SANTAT, ALAIN GAYRAUT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) @Chateau Lamartine. Oh, dark, dark malbec, inky in constitution as well as color. Dark plum, peel, tar. Game, entrails, brett. Animal energy./ Oh, boy! 04 dark and dense. Plenty of fruit, well compacted. Big, extracted, assertive, astringent. Ventilating malbec licorice airs. The real deal, and a thorough 04 malbec. The group was enormously impressed
and couldn’t believe the low price. 16.2+. WT012308-10. 05 CHATEAU HAUT MONDAIN, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Le Hauts de Palette @Beguey. Lovely petit claret set of tea, herbs, bell pepper, and cassis./ Pepper and cassis confirmed. No oak evident. Dry, with good acidity. Plenty of textural interest. Long aftertaste. Needn’t be cellared long. Good with food now. And a good value. 15.6+. WT012308-11. 05 CHATEAU LABATUT BOUCHARD, 1ERES COTES DE BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Grower: Mehaye, Winemaker: Bouchard @Saint Maixant. Futs de chene. Yes, the good oak complex is evident, adding complexity to this and several of the other clarets this evening. Never overdone, and the vigorous fruit quality of the 05s is fully up to it. The ripe, cherry-like merlot fruit here just gives and gives./ Fine fruit, spicy
oak, good acidity and tannin. What more could you want in a claret at this price? Has it all. Better still in 1-2 years. 16.3+. WT012308-12. 05 CHATEAU MAYNE VIEIL, FRONSAC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) All Fronsac, all the way. Dark, intense, inky, gripping. Dry and powerful. Dense, muscular, reserved. And with the stature and pedigree that justifies the single appellation,/ Cherry, pitch, basalt. Blackberry and bramble. Good acid, tannin, chewy extract and grip. But not coarse, not to excess. Has claret control, refinement, tailoring. One of the best
vintages for this cuvee. Give it 2-3 years to blossom. Well liked by the group. 16.4+. WT012308-13. 05 CHATEAU LES TOURS DE PEYRAT VIEILLES VIGNES, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Futs de chene. 80% merlot, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 5% malbec. This came in third behind Chateau de Lugagnac in the influential Wall Street Journal tasting. The futs de chene influence is evident, as it was when we got the first shipment of this wine a year ago, and at another tasting thereafter. Not to excess. There
is plenty of ripe fruit. Smoky aura./ Continues to show full concentration of fruit, extract, acid, and tannin that mark a great vintage, old vines, and fine winemaking. Fetching, ripe, aromatic 05 fruits with a soft kiss of oak spices. Solidly framed and generous in all respects. Loaded. Big-time potential. Give it 2-3+ years. 16.5+. WT012308-14. 05 CHATEAU BEYNAT CUVEE LEONARD, COTES DE CASTILLON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) From old vines; 50% each merlot and cabernet sauvignon. 12 months in oak barrels, 20% new. Fine new oak without excess. Big fruit concentration and full extract grip as usual with this cuvee. Compact black cherry fruit./ Yes, fullness, fine oak, grip, and the complete fruit package. One large and ambitious Castillon. 3-4 years to maturity.
16.8+. WT012308-15. 05 CHATEAU BEL AIR LA CHAPELLE, COTES DU CASTILLON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Futs de chene. Oak under control, very Grand Cru in disposition as is usual with this wine. Inviting fresh and dried flowers airs, including lavender. Lovely, sweet cherry-berry merlot-cabernet franc fruit set. And fine, fine oak./ Yes, the usual Grand Cru finesse here. Charming, stylish, layered, complex. So well balanced it’s easy
to assimilate now. So lovely. But it’s a keeper too. Age 2-4 years. The group was in awe. 17.0+. WT012308-16. 05 CHATEAU FONGABAN, PUISSEGUIN SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Silver Medal - Paris. Yes, ripe dark, deep, abundant fruit, rich and forward. Rich, juicy, plentiful, complex, distinctive. This has eastern Saint Emilion darkness, depth, and significance. And a soft, toffee-like oak complement./ Yes! Stuffed with broad, full textured, voluminous fruit that fully coats the palate. Saint Emilion all the way.
Fully as impressive as the 98 and 00, if not more so. Well liked by the group. In fact, the group was very complimentary to the claret set in general. 17.1+. WT012308-17. 03 CHATEAU LA GRANGE DE BESSAN, MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Remi Lacombe @Civrac. Stalwart cabernet sauvignon strength. 03 ripeness; starting to show some bouquet. Ripe currant, spices, tar, peppercorn./ Some animal notes, some brett–there’s plenty in the 03s. Ripe, soft and powerful; typical of the vintage. 03 generosity. Firm core of fruit and fruit tannin that persists in the 03 Left Bank clarets. Give
it 3-4 years. 15.8.+.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008 WT011608-01. 07 CRIOS DE SUSANA BALBO SALTA TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Damn, this is good and juicy! Explosive, even. Mango, citrus, fuzzy peach, tutti-frutti. Heavily pomaded, perfumed, tonic. These 07 torrontes wines are reminding me a lot of gewurztraminers. This has that sort of plumpness too./ Wow! Bay, laurel, bergamot, barbershop, tea, essences. Great acidity. Cool and ventilating. Intense stuff. Now, name the food
matches. Well liked by the group. 17.0. WT011608-02. 06 VOUVRAY LE PEU DE LA MORIETTE, DOMAINE PICHOT - (FRANCE LOIRE) Apple, quince, Rose’s Lime Juice, calcaire, almond. Classic Vouvray nose./ And deliciously demi-sec on the palate–a little sweeter than sec tendre. Deep, round, salacious delivery. Good acidity. Tremendous form, poise. Uncommonly ageworthy, especially at the price. Well liked by the group. 16.6+. WT011608-03. 02 MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER RIESLING J. J., J. J. CHRISTOFFEL - (GERMANY) Starting with 07 or 08, they’re going to shorten Mosel-Saar-Ruwer to Mosel. I’ll be glad. I’m tired of typing out the whole string. Sweet nose, fully imbued with edelfirne development. Flattering stage of maturity for a Mittel Mosel./ Sweetness confirmed. The acidity of 02 still reverberates. 15.6. WT011608-04. 03 MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER RIESLING J. J., J. J. CHRISTOFFEL - (GERMANY) This has plenty of riesling bottle bouquet too but also more fruit and juiciness. And the warm, sunny disposition of 03, including hints of demerara sugar./ Peach and melon flavors. Sweet. Good acidity and extract–surprisingly, more than in the 02. Nice sugar-acid balance. Long finish. Most preferred this one. 16.4. WT011608-05. 05 MARSANNAY LES GRASSES TETES, BRUNO CLAIR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh, sweet and rich and full fruit for young Dijonnais and young Clair. No young Marsannay toughness, leanness, stinginess. Cherry creme, cherry blossom, spiced cherry, and touch of wood smoke. The complete young Marsannay. 05 fruit quality scores again!/ Rich, and already flattering. Good Clair bracing though. Good acidity and extract for grip
and structure. Great elegance. Very long aftertaste. This has a great future. The Talk of the Tasting. 17.5+. WT011608-06. 06 VINA ANTIGUA MAIPU SANGIOVESE-BONARDA - (ARGENTINA) 50-50. Lovely as usual. Bonarda flowers, raspberries, lilt and lift. Sangiovese form, grip, acidity. Fine./ Rich and fragrant bonarda florals and sangiovese acidity and cling. Intense, rich, burnished fruits. Sweet raspberry, brambly spiciness, carrot cake, hint of smoked and spiced meat. Very generous and satisfying both aromatically and texturally.
This continues to be a fixture on my World’s Greatest Red Wine Values list. Top 10, even. 16.2. WT011608-07. 05 CHATEAU MOULIN DE L’ESPERANCE, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Guy Rey @Cars. Elegant, floral, fruity, flared. Sweet berry and briar. Woodsy wild cherry and underbrush. Best vintage yet here, and we go way back./ Rich, with cabernet franc raspberry and licorice, merlot tea and tobacco. Great acidity and grip. Totally food-worthy claret. Well liked by the group. 16.1+. WT011608-08. 06 CALATAYUD VINA ALARBA, VINEDOS DEL JALON - (SPAIN) Sweet and ripe and grenache like. Vanilla, cherry, chocolate, and hoisin sauce overtones. Easy, accessible fruit. Euro feel though./ Yes, great Euro acidity in the 06 mode. Very juicy taste. Fine tannin. Full texture. Mouthfilling. A mealtime wine for sure. 16.0. WT011608-09. 05 RIBERA DEL DUERO ROBLE, LEGON - (SPAIN) 100% tempranillo, 6 months in American oak. Firm oak and firm tempranillo fruit. Nothing overblown. Playing it close to the vest./ The palate is much more garrulous, opening with a tremendous burst of delicious fruit and oak flavors. Sweet cherry, milk chocolate, caramel. Big, rich, complex, rangy. Juicy berry fruit acidity. Well padded tannins offer just the right
degree of grip at the end. Well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT011608-10. 06 TORO PIEDRA AZUL, ESTANCIA PIEDRA - (SPAIN) Lovely, dark, and deep presentation of tinta de toro. Pitchy black fruits. Raspberry confiture and vanilla. Very deep./ Rich and chewy, packed with material. Dense, solid, tarry, smoky, gutsy. Full Toro grip and sweet warmth. Exemplary. 16.0+. WT011608-11. 06 GOATS DO ROAM COASTAL REGION RED - (SOUTH AFRICA) Sweet, easy, direct. Not tame though. Good acidity evident on the nose./ Yes, this has an exceptional degree of acidity. Vintage? Or style change? Seems drier than before. Very fruity though. Just a little dekk, brett. Certainly a good food wine. 15.0. WT011608-12. 03 COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES VIGNOBLE DE LA VIALLE, CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich and large, husky. 03 warmth, roast, and power. Solid, lusty, dusky, gamy./ Richness, fullness, and satisfaction of 03 and the Villages level. Definitely marked for hearty fare during the cold months. A lot of bottled sunshine here. Will serve with meat from the grill in summer too. 16.2. WT011608-13. 06 COTES DU RHONE CUVEE ROMAINE, DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh strawberry and raspberry fruit. Violets, peppercorns, and plenty of garrigue notions. Sweet fruit countenance. Good restraint and form of this fine vintage./ Svelte, nicely burnished grenache strawberry. Sweetmeats. More youthful reticence than the 05. Maybe we’re just tasting it at an earlier age. True elegance and class
of the vintage shows through already though. This will be super in 6 months plus. 16.2+. WT011608-14. 05 NINE STONES MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Really black! Wow! Dark fruited, deep, woody, powerful. A Big Guy. Gives and gives./ Full, meaty, ripe, generous, well balanced, delicious. Cassis, blackberry, beef, and bourbon. A Man-handler of a wine. This has more fruit material than the Hilltops cuvee, so it’s much more successful at balancing its oak and alcohol components. And it’s better structured
and more ‘significant’ than the popular Barossa bottling. 16.4.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008 WT010908-01. 05 CREMANT DE LIMOUX LES GRAIMENOUS TETE DE CUVEE, J. LAURENS - (SPARKLING) Oh, lovely, toasty, abundant bottle bouquet! Champagne like, for sure. Plenty of class./ Full and toasty bottle earned flavor. The best vintage yet here. Not the finesse of a fine Champagne, but certainly up to a minor one, at half the cost. Must have spend most of its two years of life on the bottle lees to earn this much personality
this
soon. 16.6. WT010908-02. 06 CHATEAU BONNET, ENTRE DEUX MERS - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 50% sauvignon blanc, 40% semillon, 10% muscadelle. I thought the sauvignon percentage used to be higher. Certainly semillon is more influential this vintage in the nose and palate of the wine. And less oak. They’ve really got it under control now. Used to run wild. Last year was an improvement, this year is even better at oak management and integration.
Semillon
shows its melony plumpness here, its lush texture. Touches of sauvignon grass, of muscadelle green citrus and flowers. Ripeness, dexterity, and zing. Just a lovely Entre deux Mers./ Both round and crisp, as semillon and sauvignon vie for attention. Pungency and presence, firm acid carriage. Plenty of flair and savor. It tingles. Full, satiny, and long, with a dash of muscadelle astringency. The best ever, for my tastes. 16.4. WT010908-03. 06 GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU BLOCK 13 SANTA LUCAS VINEYARD MONTEREY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Wow! Ruby red grapefruit, and gooseberry. Plump and vigorous./ Full, sweet grapefruit and lemon drop taste. This really has the sweetness of California to it, without going commercial. Stone fruits and flowers chime in to create a complex presentation. Good acidity. Certainly food-worthy. 16.1. WT010908-04. 03 WEINHEIMER RIESLING SPATLESE HALBTROCKEN, GERNOT GYSLER - (GERMANY) Unusual roasted nut element mingled with riesling raciness and light herbaceous zest. Floral aspects give lift to its mature demeanor. Just a trace of sweetness. Some resemblance to mature Alsace pinot gris. 16.0. WT010908-05. 04 NIERSTEINER OLBERG GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE HALBTROCKEN, GEORG-ALBRECHT SCHNEIDER - (GERMANY) Very pomaded. The full bergamot bouquet, penetrating and tonic. Some lovely lychee, rose, orange, and tea elements too./ Thick textured, flush, and full bodied, but a cool, tonic gewurz astringency gives relief. The relative dryness is attractive; this is as dry as most modern Alsace gewurzs and has good strength
and body
too. The race and length of 04. Very popular with the group. Many Pac Rim possibilities. 16.8. WT010908-06. 06 0C PINOT NOIR LES SALICES OAK AGED, J-F LURTON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Some whole-cluster fermentation used. Ripe pinot noir nose with a nice dash of oak character. Pinot’s inherent sweet smell./ Fresh, showing the bright fruit character of whole-bunch fermentation. Terrific fruit acidity gives wonderful relief and vigor. A steal. 15.9. WT010908-07. 01 CASTEL DEL MONTE UVA DI TROIA LA VIOLETTA IL CIRCO, BONNY DOON - (ITALY) Fairly rich raspberry and dried fruits aromas with lush leather patina./ More leather on the palate. Sturdy, rustic, maturing. Use soon. 15.2. WT010908-08. 04 DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI BRIC SETTEZONA MADONNA DELLE GRAZIO, ALDO MARENCO - (ITALY) Wow! This is deep, floral, fully fruity. Bountiful plum and red fruit offerings. A real Dogliani take on dolcetto. Polished, mannerly, classy. Really upscale without a need for all the oak that accompanies the fancy ones./ Very plummy. Good 04 grip, tannin. 04 darkness. A keeper. 16.6+. WT010908-09. 01 MORELLINO DI SCANZANO, POGGIO ALLE SUGHERE - (ITALY) Ripe. Lots of juice, including prune. Developed, burnished fruit. Lush with sweet leather and meat tones and a touch of tobacco./ The palate is pretty, sweet, and vigorous on entry, with fine 01 acidity and form. Aging in a graceful manner. 15.8. WT010908-10. 05 CHATEAU LES GRANDS AGASSEAUX, LUSSAC SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) R. Dousseaux, proprietor. Pretty, pretty 05 fruit. Class, elegance, and quality fruit. Berries and spices, cedar and flowers. Saint Emilion sweetness and generosity./ Plenty of attractive textural play. Richness, body, size. Superb form and balance. Wonderful poise. Fine cellar candidate. 16.7+. WT010908-11. 05 CHATEAU DE LA NAUVE, SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) More class, beauty, fruit intensity and purity. More cherry (merlot), less berry (cabernet franc). Deliciously dark and deep and concentrated. The superior pedigree of Saint Emilion proper versus a satellite wine./ Yes, full, generous, rich merlot fruit. And a touch of oak complexity. Fine acidity, measured tannin. 17.0+. Both Saint Emilions were
very popular
with the group, especially as ageworthy clarets. WT010908-12. 05 L DE LYETH SONOMA MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet merlot black cherry nose. Deep seated berriness and lots of spice. Nice wood dusting./ Yes, sweet and spicy. Good acidity for balance. The oak is nicely rendered and under control. All-around delicious. 16.0. WT010908-13. 05 L DE LYETH SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) More oak, toast, sweet spices, power, structure than the Merlot. Less come-hither attraction./ Fine sweetness and ease for a cabernet, especially an 05. The fruit and oak are in harmony. Plenty of savor. Good now. 15.9+. WT010908-14. 04 GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU BLOCK 13 SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Mainly from Alexander Valley. And it shows: deep, dark, warm, ripe, powerful, rich, substantial. Blackberries and cream. Vanilla, dill, and black tobacco./ Yes, the ALV warmth and power echo on the palate. Ripe fruit, brown sugar, brown spices. Sweet, strong, full bodied wine of place. 16.6. WT010908-15. 04 CHARLES KRUG YOUNTVILLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Oh, boy! Intense blackberry and vanilla, and wood spices. That roasted tone that recalls Krugs of yore. And the style, elegance, and Old World restraint of traditional Krug cabernets. Fabulously intense black currant core./ Spicy and sweet. Well balanced. Fine acidity, tannin. Rich and lengthy aftertaste. While adhering to many characteristics of Napa
wines of
the Sixties, it incorporates some more modern embellishments too. So it’s not just a time piece but also a wine of wide contemporary appeal. The wonderful 04 Napa cabernet vintage helps to shape its personality. 17.2+. WT010908-16. 04 BARBARESCO, PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO - (ITALY) Good 04 grip, reserve. Tar, cherry, peel. Compact, restrained, elegant. Classic Barbaresco grace./ Plum, berries, tar, flowers. Refined, discreet, measured, poised. Needs 3-5 years to flesh out fully. 16.3+. WT010908-17. 06 YALUMBA Y SERIES SOUTH AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ-VIOGNIER - (AUSTRALIA) Creamy black fruits, coconut, leather, mocha, flowers./ Smooth and easy. Not much acidity, but the alcohol gives it form. Modest in youth. 15.0+. WT010908-18. 06 SOBON ESTATE HILLSIDE AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Fresh, young, lithe, spicy. Amador ripe and powerful, with peel and peppercorn vigor. Dark, plummy, creamy fruit, nougat, toffee. / Yes, sweet, young, and spicy. Compact, well depicted fruit. Nice acidity and fine-grained tannins. Another fine example of Sobon goodness. 16.0+. Wednesday, January 2, 2008 WT010208-01. 07 LA YUNTA LA RIOJA TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Very pure and lovely perfume. Cold cream (flowers), orange cream (essential oil and blossom), quince, and fuzzy peach peel. Lovely relief. Like a balm./ Savory yellow fruits with a piquant citrus edge and citrus creme softness. Wonderful textural play features both smoothness and cut. Racy, juicy finish. There are thicker and more intensely aromatic versions
of torrontes but none prettier. 16.3. WT010208-02. 06 SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO, BOUTARI - (GREECE) Deep, citrus peel nose. Sleek, satiny, taut, full. Lots of dusty extract, minerality too. Well balanced./ Full body and grip. Lots of intriguing material here. I can see comparisons to Chablis Premier Cru, though the soil is volcanic, not chalky. Fresh, expressive, zesty, vibrant. Very popular with the group. This is surely one of Greece’s world-class whites. Immensely
mealworthy. 17.1. WT010208-03. 06 ROMAGNA FORLI VIGNETO ROSENERE D’R BIANCO, DREI DONA - (ITALY) 40% chardonnay, 30% each sauvignon blanc and malvasia. Understandably, the floral aromas of malvasia dominate. Very nice too. Chardonnay supplies the grip, and sauvignon blanc the cut. Sleek, elegant, finesse-ful, ethereal overall./ Soft malvasia on entry, chardonnay weight in the middle, and sauvignon race and grip in the back. Last, a dash
of satiny malvasia astringency. A successful cuvee of seemingly strange bedfellows. 16.0. WT010208-04. 05 ROMAGNA FORLI CHARDONNAY IL TORNESE TENUTA LA PALAZZA, DREI DONA - (ITALY) Tea and honey notes show development in barrique. Full, creamy, oaky./ Ripe apple, tea with cream, and honeysuckle. Oak flavor and oak tannin. Strikingly high acidity comes as a surprise after a New World sort of nose. Plenty of grip. Needs food. 15.5. WT010208-05. 04 DURKHEIMER ABTSFRONHOF RIESLING SPATLESE HALBTROCKEN, FITZ-RITTER - (GERMANY) Whoa! Exceptionally floral perfume I cannot recall in this or any other vintage of this wine. What is it? Lily? Yes, plus peach juice and apple. Not a hint of age on the nose./ Nor on the palate. That cold VC wine cellar speaks. Floral taste as well as smell. Good spatlese richness and density, sturdy halbtrocken form. Mealworthy.
16.6. WT010208-06. 02 DURKHEIMER ABTSFRONHOF RIESLING SPATLESE HALBTROCKEN, FITZ-RITTER - (GERMANY) Certainly shows more maturity. Also more grip, extract–02 is known for that. Edelfirne maturation–positive./ More sweetness, body, flavor intensity, length. Well liked by the group. 16.9. WT010208-07. 05 CRETE KRETIKOS RED, BOUTARI - (GREECE) From the kotsifali and mantilania grape varieties. Oh! A fine, fresh, brisk, and joyous red fruit display! Sweet cherry creme, hints of strawberry and tea. Aims to please./ Flavorful, bright, and pleasing middle weight with a lovely balance of fruit sweetness and acidity. Juicy cherry compote. Full of red fruits and berries. Entirely come-hither and useful. Very
popular with the group. 16.3. WT010208-08. 04 NEMEA AGIORGITIKO, BOUTARI - (GREECE) Rich, dark, sweet cherry and berry aroma of saint george. Shows a pinot noir like lushness./ Yes, lusty, rich, smooth, smoky, Burgundian. Fine tannin. Complete saint george. Very popular with the group. 17.0. WT010208-09. 04 NAOUSSA, BOUTARI - (GREECE) From the xinomavro grape variety. Deep and dark and seductive. Shows good wood, time in wood. Sweet black cherry aromas./ Yes, fine oak aging complex. Cherry and peel fruit flavors and feels. Fabulous material, stuffing, volume, fine tannin, length. Great value. 17.1. WT010208-10. 05 ROMAGNA FORLI SANGIOVESE NOTTURNO TENUTA LA PALAZZA, DREI DONA - (ITALY) Sweet cherry-berry and licorice aromas. Purple plum and cranberry too. Fresh acidity gives lots of lift./ Rich and viscous. That sangiovese glycerol padding. Black and red currants and woodsy aspects. Fine tannin to give it a burnished finish. Will improve. Good example of the varietal in a central Italy setting. Liked by the group.
16.2+. WT010208-11. 01 ROMAGNA FORLI CABERNET SAUVIGNON MAGNIFICAT TENUTA LA PALAZZA, DREI DONA - (ITALY) Barrique aged; unfiltered. Fine oak vanilla and brown spices and aromatic barks. Dried fruit, tobacco, and licorice concentration of 01 Chianti Classico Riservas and Super Tuscans. Fabulously upscale nose./ Rich and concentrated. Certainly Italianate. Great 01 fruit acidity. Chewy extract and tannin. Fine. Very popular
with the group. 17.5. WT010208-12. 06 VENTISQUERO RESERVA CASABLANCA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (CHILE) Sweet and intricate aromatic set speaks flowers, cherry, raspberry, tea, tobacco, strawberry. Some oak extracts. Good viscosity./ Yes, cherry, tea, and vanilla. Good acidity. Rich and lively, long and flavorful. A fine value in pinot. 16.1. WT010208-13. 06 ANGELINE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Sweet and ripe cherry fruit. Plenty of power. Touch of tar and peels extract./ Sweet, smooth, and easy. Good acidity. An honest value in pinot these days. 15.6. WT010208-14. 05 GUENOC CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) From both Valley and Coast claims the back label. And so the wine reads. There’s Valley anchovy and Coast currant. Good wood touch./ Poise, coolness, full presence. Dark fruits and berries, hint of vanilla. Medium bodied. Smooth. Good acidity. An attractive everyday meal-time wine that continues the Guenoc tradition. 15.6. WT010208-15. 06 GRAYSON PASO ROBLES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Full, bright, rich melange of berry, currant, and–especially–ripe cherry marks this a good Paso cabernet. Paso power too, likely Eastside. But no prune, no Dr. Pepper, so it doesn’t go Paso overboard./ Oh, rich, rich, rich Paso cabernet. Vanilla, wood, spice, Cavendish tobacco. Good acidity. Full, fine-grained tannins. Total value. 16.2. WT010208-16. 05 MARTIN RAY NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Powerful, heady, sweet Show Wine. Warm for Napa. More like Alexander. Dense black currant and toasty oak./ Strong, with pungent vanilla, wood, and currant flavors. Rather over-eager at this stage. Lacks 05 restraint and Napa refinement. Look again in 6-12 months. 16.0+.
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