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- January, 2007
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Wednesday, January 31, 2007
WT013107-01. 06 KEN FORRESTER PETITE STELLENBOSCH CHENIN BLANC - (SOUTH AFRICA) Apple, pear, lime, and melon aromas. Sleek, round, varietally sound./ Bright and tangy. Great mouthfeel, and the dryness renders it very useful at the table. A lovely, well crafted chenin. 16.0. WT013107-02. 05 GAVI DI GAVI LA MEIRANA, BROGLIA - (ITALY) Cool, penetrating, burnished. Sage and flowers classic. Fine Gavi./ Palate adds orange peel and hazelnut. Very zesty fruit acid, extract, texture, body. All in balance. One of the best in the series. 16.8. WT013107-03. 05 VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO, BORGO MADDALENA - (ITALY) Fine, full, apple and peel nose. Lemon grass, flowers, nuts, currants../ Fine, full and lush fruit within a good framework. Plump 05 goodness. Nice acidity. Up-front charm. Very satisfying texture. A delicious dinner wine. 16.3. WT013107-04. 05 PINOT GRIS ROMANUS, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE ALSACE) Whoa! Intensely perfumed of an aromatic apple variety. Singular, sappy pungency. Just gushes fruit. Peach emergence./ Sweetness as well as glycerol. Nutty, waxy, fragrant. Lively acidity and fine depth of flavor. A unique statement of pinot gris aromatic potential. 16.2+. WT013107-05. 05 WEINHEIMER SCHEUREBE HALBTROCKEN, GERNOT GYSLER liter - (GERMANY) Whoa! Dazzling floral perfume that sets it apart from prior vintages. Also the cat, the orange, the currant, and the gooseberry./ Sweetish for halbtrocken. The sweetest in the series. But also very spicy, lively, energetic, upturned; racy, zesty, minerally. Nice nip of scheu bitterness at the end too. 16.3+. WT013107-06. 04 GEWURZTRAMINER, TRIMBACH - (FRANCE ALSACE) Classic, cool bergamot perfume with thick barbershop airs. Generous rose, lychee, and ginger gewurz facets too./ Dry and quite viscous. Yes, plenty of gewurz glycerol cut by good gewurz astringency. Adequate acidity for gewurz. Elegant restraint, great balance. Classic. 16.4. WT013107-07. 05 CARMEN RAPEL VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Whoa! Abundant sweet cherry and blackberry perfumes with pit and aniseed extras. Deep and tarry merlot./ Plenty of fruit, fruit sweetness, and fruit tannin. Round, juicy, and enticing. A good value. 15.8. WT013107-08. 05 RUTINI TRUMPETER MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Cool, racy high altitude malbec. Rich, compact, burnished. Sweet and solid fruit and peel. Tar and cherry notions of malbec. 05 well-framed style–like 02./ Sweet fruit. Racy red cherry, pomegranate, fig, dark plum, and chocolate flavors. Fine textured. Well balanced. Well structured. Delicious dinner wine. 15.9. WT013107-09. 04 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE VIGNETO RAFAEL, TOMMASI - (ITALY) Oh, wow! Intense montmorency cherry nose with roof tar extras. Big, fireworks display of fruity aromas./ Smoky, spicy, woodsy. Plump and generous, warm and rich. Full, fresh, juicy, high-strung fruit acidity. The cherry and cola flavors too are unique for Valpolicella. Special wine, handsome, abundant, authoritative. These 04 Valpols continue to allure and impress. 16.2. WT013107-10. 03 TOSCANA IL VOLANO, MOLINO DI GRACE - (ITALY) Italianate nose. Sweet, dried cherry sangiovese classic. Tar, tobacco, smoked, spiced meats, touch of rancio./ Again, the sweet, dried cherry fruit with accompanying glycerol. Fine acidity and tannin. Well balanced. Delicious. 16.1. WT013107-11. 03 CHIANTI, ITALIAN CLASSICS - (ITALY) Warm and common. Both ripe and green fruit from the heat and drought. Some grapes ripened too much, some not enough./ Ripe and tart both. And the tannin is coarse as it is in a number of 03 Tuscans. The acidity and tannin will accommodate food though. No doubt it would score better at the dinner table. 13.5. WT013107-12. 03 CHIANTI CLASSICO, GEOGRAFICO - (ITALY) Sweet, dried fruit and herbs. Plum and mulberry. Lush, forward, fruity, charming./ Shows richness, body, and surprising finesse. Fine tannin and extract, smooth textured. Lovely fruit flavor. A lot of polish. 15.4. WT013107-13. 04 COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC AALENIEN, DOMAINE DE SAUMAREZ - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Firm but sweet fruits and a attractive measure of sweet new oak. Warm for 04, and not a bit austere. Ripe fruit and barrel aging may account./ Racy and dramatic, well extracted. Plenty of acidity and tannin. Nice oak-introduced warm spices. Balanced. Young, but already food-worthy. 16.5. WT013107-14. 02 CORBIERES, DE CAMPLONG - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% syrah, 20% each grenache and carignan, 10% mourvedre. Very ripe, especially for 02. Rancio, anchovy, ventilation./ Rich, warm oak spices. Black and red cherries. Ripe and balanced. Not rancio on the palate. Even-mannered. A stellar achievement considering the vintage. But, then, things got better as you moved west. 16.1. WT013107-15. 03 CORBIERES, DE CAMPLONG - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Neat stuff, unique for Corbieres. The nose shows juicy apple-raspberry-cranberry notions of ripe Dry Creek Valley zinfandel. And there’s some jam, dried fruit, and rancio, like in a late-harvest zin./ Palate confirms. Richness and sweetness and boldness of a late harvest zinfandel. Sweetness balanced by really great acidity. Little or no tannin to interfere. Very dramatic and exotic Corbieres. 16.4. WT013107-16. 05 3 RINGS BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Fresh, young, and somewhat withdrawn from the rigors of travel. With air, juicy, ripe black cherry fruit emerges. The wine comes out of its shell and shows abundance and generosity./ The palate adds mocha, chocolate, and toasty oak. Juicy, ripe, and better balanced even than the 04. Will surely reward half a year’s aging. 15.8+. WT013107-17. 04 ST. FRANCIS OLD VINES SONOMA ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Deep, dense, dark, and smoky. Fully burnished fruits: blackberry, black currant, blueberry, plum. Toasted-coconut American oak contribution and complications of underbrush./ Very lush and pretty fruit, both sweet and racy. Fine old vines depth. Spicy, toasty oak. Good acidity. Fine-grained tannins. Will be even better a few months from now. 16.4+. WT013107-18. 04 MONTEVINA TERRA D’ORO AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Ripe and spiritous. Tar, peels, wood, smoke. Very concentrated, big, solid, strapping./ Flavors of dark berries, vanilla, and milk chocolate. Packed full of chewy goodness. Sweetness balances the tannin and alcohol. Fine toast and brown spice barrel contributions. While the nose holds back somewhat still, the palate is appealingly rich, polished, plump, and fulfilling already. Will really deliver at the dinner table. 16.6+. WT013107-19. 05 TRENTINO RIESLING DUPINTI, LAVIS - (ITALY) Dusty-rose powderpuff perfume. Citrus, yellow fruit, honey, and mint too. Full, forthcoming, attractive face of riesling./ Floral and citrus flavors. Good acidity. Dry, soft finish. 15.3. WT013107-20. 05 ALTO ADIGE TERLANER CLASSICO, CANTINA TERLAN - (ITALY) Sauvignon blanc, pinot bianco, riesling italico. Nicely crafted cuvee. Just a hint of sauvignon grass, plenty of pinot blanc green fruit and sappy vinosity, some riesling floral perfume./ Lightly perfumed and dry. All three varietals play out on the palate too. Ripe, soft acidity. Well balanced. Good effort. 16.0. Wednesday, January 24, 2007 WT012407-01. 06 COOPER’S CREEK MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Very brisk, piquant. Grapefruit., grass, cat, lime, white pepper. Prototypical NZ sauvignon, fresh and zesty, and showing quite a lot of dimension./ Racy, with a lively acid carriage and rich fruit texture. Delicious, refreshing, exotic. 16.1. WT012407-04. 05 HAMILTON RUSSELL WALKER BAY CHARDONNAY - (SOUTH AFRICA) Well, if this isn’t something! Quality new French oak statement. Toast, vanilla, cereal grains. Sweet, ripe, woody, open grained. Boillot style, said one taster, and I can see that. Warm and robust. Fills the nostrils./ Big, rich, full, dramatic. Sweet oak spices and vanillin. Oak extracts and tannins. Creamy texture. Nice citrusy relief. An ambitious
endeavor, very popular with the group. 17.0+. WT012407-05. 05 OC GRENACHE-SYRAH PLUME BLEUE, FERAUD - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% each varietal. Fresh, well extracted, and logical presentation of the varietals in symphony. Sweet, ripe grenache with power meets dark-fruited syrah. Young, vivacious 05 fruit styling. Sleek, with a sense of sophistication and lots of charm./ Yes, sweet and smooth grenache with the dark, dense, smoky grip of syrah. Bramble, plum, pepper,
tobacco. Nicely balanced. Fine depth. Generously fruity. Well crafted. 16.0+. WT012407-06. 03 FRANCAIS CUVEE DE LA GENESTRIERE, CHANTE CIGALE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe and maturing 03. Dried fruit, fruitcake, strawberry jam, hint of rancio. Strong and generous, with baking spices, roasted meat, mushroom, and aromatic tobacco extras./ Full, strong, generous, complete 03. Well balanced too. At an attractive stage. Really delivers the goods. 16.1. WT012407-07. 04 CORBIERES, COL DES VENTS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Some reduction to start. After airing, lively, with berries, black pepper, and garrigue aromas and flavors./ Fresh, vivacious, frisky. Good dark-fruit 04 presentation. Good to go now after decanting vigorously. 15.0+. WT012407-08. 04 COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE, DOMAINE DE VALDERNIER - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet and dark aromas of cranberry, peppercorn, woods, tobacco, and tea leaf./ 04 grip and darkness. Nice flairs of garrigue, flowers, herbs, spices. Great acidity. High-strung, animated, eager. Good 04 Provence frame and finesse. 15.8+. WT012407-09. 05 LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS COLCHAGUA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Sweet and easy, but with enough frame to maintain its integrity. Juicy cabernet blackberry and fruit peels aromas. Caramel and Cavendish extras./ Sweet and spicy–warm spices. Well crafted, really. A pleasure to drink now–which is unusual for Chilean cabernet of this age. 15.6. WT012407-10. 04 TOSCANA POGGIO DELLA FONTE, CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D’ARAGONA - (ITALY) Subtle, warm, and spicy. Shows time in cooperage–the warmth, the savor, the extra aromatic dimensions, the sophistication. A class act, in keeping with the style of the grander wines of this estate tasted a couple of weeks ago./ Warm, suave, spicy, well tuned. Plummy, meaty brunello fruit substance. Very smooth, supple. No 04 sullen act,
resistance. The tannins are refined. Lovely. This estate knows how to make wine! 16.3+. WT012407-12. 05 BARBERA D’ALBA, MAURO MOLINO - (ITALY) Brilliant. Scintillating. Dazzling barbera black fruit, black cherry, tar-licorice. Classic barbera, classic Molino. Sweet coating over a black core./ Dense and compact. Juicy, ripe blackberry core. Nice light coating of barbera glycerol. Hints at wood smoke and leather. Fabulous barbera acidity. 16.4+. WT012407-13. 05 DOLCETTO D’ALBA, LUIGI PIRA - (ITALY) Grip, flair, zest, tingle, pepper, perfume, sachet, cedar, sandalwood. Lovely, plentiful blueberry and black cherry elements./ Grip of fine tannin. Dry and serious, strong and solid. Plenty of structure and density. Great depth. The flavor and fruit sweetness still encased by youth. Needs time for fulfillment. Not your basic dolcetto quaffer. 16.0++. WT012407-14. 05 DOLCETTO D’ALBA, ENZO BOGLIETTI - (ITALY) Sweet and polished fruit, dense, ripe, plummy. Ample oak. Warm spices. Ambitious./ Again, plentiful oak. Black currant and black cherry fruit flavors. Great acidity. Zesty, flaired style of the varietal. Ripe and racy, with a lively edge. Very assertive and penetrating. A classy presentation with varietal faithfulness and fine oak extras. 16.3+. WT012407-15. 05 NEBBIOLO DELLE LANGHE, ENZO BOGLIETTI - (ITALY) Class nebbiolo cherry and flowers aromas with Langhe sweetness and charm. Very pretty and classic to the DOC. Nutty, oaky extras./ Yes, has the grace and silkiness and fresh cherry qualities that is Langhe nebbiolo. And a lot of class. Very fine-grained tannins. Ample size and structure, fine depth. I love both Langhe and Alba nebbiolos. Such a noble grape.
And it would be such a shame not to be able to enjoy it in a handsome presentation that doesn’t require long aging. 16.7+. WT012407-16. 04 LYETH MERITAGE SONOMA RED - (U.S.) 78% cabernet sauvignon, 10% each merlot and malbec, 2% cabernet franc. Warm, savory, chocolatey, oaky and herbal. Sweet, jammy red and black fruits with a smoky aura./ Lots of plump, sweet fruit, anise, warmth, power, strength. A frank and forthright northern Alexander Valley package. 15.8+. WT012407-17. 05 YALUMBA Y SERIES SOUTH AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ-VIOGNIER - (AUSTRALIA) Ripe, easy, sassy Aussie shiraz with a nice, floral, peachy viognier lift. Sweet, creamy milk chocolate flows forth./ Flavor shows viognier soaring into a perfumed aura. Tremendous charm. Much better than the 04. The viognier contribution is so much more evident and complexing here. 15.9. WT012407-18. 99 COTEAUX DU LAYON, VINCENT SAINCRIT - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sweet melon and lime Loire chenin with honey, tea, and tobacco botrytis extras./ Zesty. Spiced pear, apricot, tea, tobacco, clove, nut, caramel. Very seductive. Beerenauslese like. A steal. 17.3+. Wednesday, January 17, 2007
WT011707-01. 05 GAVI DI GAVI FOSSILI, SAN SILVESTRO - (ITALY) Nervy, high-toned, vigorous. Nut, fig, date, pear, lime, stone. Silky, burnished. Plump, fleshy, complex, multi-dimensional./ Rich and suave and polished, with good, crunchy, penetrating acidity in support. Almond, apple, and stone flavors add to the aromatic profile. Unique and fine Gavi, and a fine value. 16.2. Well liked by the group. WT011707-02. 05 OC PINOT NOIR, RED BICYCLETTE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Intense cherry-berry fruit. Candied fruit. Cherry-licorice cough drop. Some raspberry pastille too. Some smoke and toast oak tones. Polished./ Again, the intense cherry candy taste. But there’s some real pinot peel extract stuff here too. French at the heart. Good acidity and peel tannin of a French rouge. Savory aftertaste. Nice value. 15.5. WT011707-03. 05 MIRASSOU CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Sweet, nutty, ripe cherry nose of warm climate pinot. Intense, generous, and real, if rather soft. Plum, purple berries, bark./ Peel, tar, cherry. Well balanced, with good alcohol and juice. Soft-centered, with a light burnish of acidity. Well priced. 15.2. WT011707-04. 04 FREI BROTHERS REDWOOD CREEK CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Rich, dark, fine, intense merlot cherry, leaf, kalamata olive, dried flowers, wood spices, bitter herbs./ Rich texture, abundant flavors. Real merlot, with nice oak touches of vanilla and warm spices. Generous, full textured. Coastal. 15.3. WT011707-05. 05 FREI BROTHERS REDWOOD CREEK CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Sweet black-fruit liqueurs: cassis, framboise, mure. Smoky oak spices./ Intense and sweet cabernet statement, with oak and polish. No terroir, but good winemaking. 15.1. WT011707-06. 03 CHATEAU DES MOINES, MONTAGNE SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Ripe, pure, cool, herbal. Aromatic, lively, vigorous. Full, forward, giving. Real claret terroir statement after the above. Licorice, balsam, raspberry, and black tobacco./ 03 sweet, supple fruit with claret herbaceousness. Nutty, woodsy, high-toned. Great acidity, fine tannin. Well structured throughout. Mealworthy. Good value. 16.0. WT011707-07. 05 CHIANTI, TOSCOLO - (ITALY) Sweet, straightforward dried cherry, anise, and orange peel sangiovese aromas. Real Chianti, clean, pure, classic./ Medium bodied. Flavors add mulberry, perfume, leather, intense and penetrating. Good acidity for food service. 15.5. WT011707-08. 04 CHIANTI CLASSICO, CARPINETO - (ITALY) Full and black 04 style. Fine, classy, spicy purple flowers and fruits. Cavendish, nuts, tar, and licorice extras. Lots of grip./ Solid, structured, handsome., aristocratic. Dense, muscular, restrained, persistent. 04 all the way. Big grip of fine-grained tannins. Great acidity. Full textured. Tarry. Fine depth and range. Needs time. 16.6++. WT011707-09. 01 CHIANTI RISERVA, FONTEROSSO - (ITALY) Yes, quite a contrast. More development, including more time in barrel. Citrus peel, celery seed, game, sweet licorice. There’s a delicacy, a distinctive elegance to it. Classic riserva. 01 is now beginning to show similar bouquet characteristics to the 99s./ Medium bodied, still somewhat restrained, discreet. Well balanced. Full barrel development, great acidity,
fine tannins. Give it 1-2 years to mellow fully. Good value. 16.2+. WT011707-10. 05 COTES DE VENTOUX, LA VIEILLE FERME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, peppery, spicy. Dark strawberry, licorice. Bigger and richer than the 04. / Sweet, primal grenache fruit, ripe but under control. Spicy. Good, nervy acid, fine tannin. Has good third dimension (depth) and textural breadth to fill the mouth too. 15.7+. WT011707-11. 04 COTES DU VENTOUX, MARQUIS DE SADE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dark and deep 04 style. Haunting, beguiling, serious. Deep, dark, secretive fruit. Garrigue nuances./ Ripe, handsome red and black fruits, and red and black licorice. Sweet, dark, juicy. Sleek, polished, sophisticated. Great acid, grip, glycerol, balance. Lively, generous, and well structured. Yes! 16.2. Very popular with the group. WT011707-12. 04 COTES DU RHONE VIEILLES VIGNES DOMAINE SAINT DAMIEN, JOEL SAUREL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Unfiltered. Well, is this exciting, or what?! Oh, boy! Explosive blackberry, cassis, tobacco, and garrigue perfumes. Pepper and other spices too. Ripe for 04./ Yes, ripe, rich, strong. Full of burgeoning, heady aromatics. A spectacular fireworks display of aromas and flavors. Great acidity. Seriously structured,
fully confident. Lovely texture, savory, toothsome. 16.9. WT011707-13. 05 COTES DU RHONE LA GERBAUDE, DOMAINE DANIEL & DENIS ALARY - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Black, sweet, saturated, and Cairanne like. Licorice, tar, peels, black tobacco, game./ Sweet, strong, rich in black fruit, licorice, and glycerol. Big presence in the mouth. Full, fine tannin. Long aftertaste. 16.4+. WT011707-14. 05 CAIRANNE COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DANIEL & DENIS ALARY - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) More compact, dense, extract laden. Classic Cairanne, sweet, powerful, plentiful. Lots of black pepper./ Sweet berry fruit, pepper, glycerol, fine tnanin. Good acidity. Extra perfume and class here. Good depth. 16.8+. WT011707-15. 05 BEAUMES DE VENISE VIN TENTATION, LES FIGUERES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) First Beaumes de Venise rouge I’ve seen since the promotion to local appellation. Sweet berry fruit, deep and purple. Cranberry, pomegranate, black raspberry. Garrigue and distinctive calcaire terroir undercarriage. Classic Beaumes de Venise characteristics–reminds me of the Jaboulet 03./ Medium bodied. Good acidity and alcohol. Soft
tannin and touch. Well tuned, well placed. True to vintage and appellation. For real. 16.3+. Wednesday, January 10, 2007 WT011007-01. 05 COTES DU RHONE BLANC, LA VIEILLE FERME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% grenache, 20% viognier, 15% each marsanne, roussanne. Going appellation upscale. This was Cotes du Luberon before. Direct, vinous entry. Apple, cut apple grenache and marsanne bases, cool and lightly fragrant of flowering grasses. Bright, stony, minerally. Yellow and citrus fruits come on with airing. Peach and papaya./ Enticing, lush,
glycerined. Lively, fresh, full acidity. Big mouthfeel, handsome minerality. Texturally satisfying, especially with food. Great value! 15.8. WT011007-02. 05 COTES CATALANES COTE EST BLANC, DOMAINE LAFAGE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full and scented. Certainly some viognier here. Honeysuckle, mango, melon, spice. Plump and well padded with ripe fruit./ Yes, viognier mango, peach, ripe citrus. Orange peel edge. 15.6. WT011007-03. 05 CHATEAU COUCHEROY, PESSAC-LEOGNAN BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 90% sauvignon blanc, 10% semillon. Yow! Grassy to the extreme. Beyond grass. Wild mint, catnip. Lime and peel./ Yes, exceptionally wild and minty. Fresh cut. Taut, friable, brittle. A special face of Bordeaux sauvignon. I like it. 16.1. WT011007-04. 05 CHATEAU SANSEY, GRAVES BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 60% semillon, 20% each sauvignon blanc, muscadelle. Semillon apple, sauvignon citrus, muscadelle bergamot./ Marly, terroir-oriented semillon base. Racy, stylish, discreet, refined sauvignon and muscadelle airs. Well poised. Mealworthy now, but give it six months and I think it will have even more appeal. I believe we first tried the 04 later in life. 16.0+. WT011007-05. 05 G DE CHATEAU GUIRAUD, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Rich body. The breadth and sense of accomplishment that suggests some maturation in seasoned cooperage. Semillon fig, nut, lemon custard. Plenty of sauvignon race, gooseberry, passion fruit, and grapefruit./ Full, yet sprightly. Fresher and better than the 04 later in life, and maybe early in life too. Great acid race, depth, and class. Yes indeed!
16.6. WT011007-06. 05 MACON LA ROCHE VINEUSE SOUS LE BOIS, CHATEAU DE LA GREFFIERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lift, race, freshness, vigor. Plenty of apple and citrus chardonnay perfumes. Slightly nutty quality of ripe Macon chardonnay that reads ‘woody’ to me./ Ripe and rich 05 style, with good acid and mineral braces. A creamy factor suggesting partial malolactic fermentation. Real sense of equilibrium, completeness, confidence
in its future. Very popular with the group. 16.5+. WT011007-07. 05 MACON VILLAGES, ROUX PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh and very, very crisp, minerally. Plenty of grip. An old-style white burgundy that stands out especially in this ripe vintage./ Rather reluctant to yield its flavor range. Solid, young burgundy without concessions to modernity. Give it a change to age. 15.8+. WT011007-08. 05 SAINT VERAN, ROUX PERE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fuller, ruddier, more open-knit. Warmer, sweeter citrus fruit: orange versus lemon. Something like an 03./ Open, rich, soft, 03 like. Ripe apple. Orange bitters. Depth and refinement. Nice mineral edge. 16.0. WT011007-09. 05 VOUVRAY DOMAINE LE PEU DE LA MORIETTE, PICHOT - (FRANCE LOIRE) We’ve got a mega-value on our hands! Oh so rich in honey and frosting, apple, pear, melon, and lime. Complete Vouvray. Beyond demi sec; this is moelleux. At fourteen bucks? Yow!/ Yes, moelleux for certain. Thick, but well balanced too. Good power and length. Botrytis hints. Would expect to pay $30 for something like this. 17.0+. WT011007-10. 03 RIESLING CUVEE PARTICULIERE, ANDRE LORENTZ - (FRANCE ALSACE) As before, this is good riesling that’s faithful to the Klipfel-Lorentz style and to its Bas Rhin origins. Clear, bright, well perfumed pear and flowers with mild, verbena and bay undertones./ Full perfumed indeed, with Bas Rhin moist black earth pungency. Good acidity and astringency in tune with the house and the zone. I continue to enjoy
it for what it is. 15.8. WT011007-11. 06 CONO SUR LIMITED RELEASE BIO-BIO VALLEY RIESLING - (CHILE) Bravo for delivering a riesling not only from Chile but also from the cool Bio-Bio Valley. Very fresh and floral, with apple, loquat, and peach-apricot aromas too. Zesty, talcy./ Vigorous, zesty. Reminds me of a New Zealand style of riesling. Bears some resemblance to the Villa Maria tasted at Wine Club on Sunday, though it’s not quite as lithe.
Has more strength. Very vigorous, commendable, direct and fruity New World styling. Dry enough for versatility at the table. 16.0. WT011007-12. 06 BRANCOTT SOUTH ISLAND PINOT NOIR - (NEW ZEALAND) Bright, racy, cool, vigorous, Burgundy-like. Lots of tart cherry and tea. A sweet fruitiness too./ Yes, sweet as well as tart. Well crafted. Flavorful, succulent, delicious pinot noir. I prefer it to the 05. 16.2. WT011007-13. 06 CONO SUR CENTRAL VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (CHILE) Valid, sweet, and wholesome pinot nose. Ripe, lush, and forceful, with aromas of strawberry and milk chocolate./ Spicy, racy, fleshy, sweet red-cherry pinot flavors with discreet, delicate tart-fruit and flowers overtones. 15.5. WT011007-14. 06 CONO SUR VISION COLCHAGUA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (CHILE) Sweet, nutty, woody. Black cherry and pit, blueberry, spices, tar. Race and character./ Grip, coolness, peel, frame, acid, tannin. Sweet fruit center. Nice and elegant, attractive. Will reward some months’ aging. 15.7+. WT011007-15. 05 CONO SUR VISION COLCHAGUA VALLEY MERLOT - (CHILE) Deep running and rich in peel extract. Dense, fruity, and tarry; faithful to reserve concentration. Black olive, sun-baked black cherry, herbals, florals. This is merlot./ Rich in fruit extracts and warm oak spices. Anise and underbrush. Substantial material here. Chewy. Loaded, really. 16.1+. WT011007-16. 05 CONO SUR RAPEL VALLEY SYRAH - (CHILE) Deep, dense, inky syrah demeanor. Roasted raspberry, nuts, milk chocolate, warm spices, pitch. Floral lift too./ Palate adds wood, tobacco, leather. Rich and flavorful, with good acidity and grip. Entire. 16.1+. WT011007-17. 04 TOSCANA SANGIOVESE, CAPARZO - (ITALY) 04 grip, blackness, frame. Tar, licorice, spices. Assertive, vigorous, packed with black fruits. One loaded 04./ 04 crispness, crackle, framing, acidity. Sleek and racy. Shows a lot of class. A bit tart and astringent still; needs a few months. Opposite style from the ripe, mellow, soft, and sweetly fruity 03. Well liked by the group. 16.0+. WT011007-18. 99 DOURO, FEIST - (PORTUGAL) Earthy, tarry. Showing full-press peel extracts. Good old time Douro red. Nice warmth and burnish of maturity./ Vigor, high acid, some VA. Good honest, rustic, country wine of Portugal, like so many in the past. Nothing international or new wave about it. Both sweet and tart cranberry, black currant, and red currant fruits. Good now or later. 15.4+. Wednesday, January 3, 2007
WT010307-01. FORGET-BRIMONT LUDES 1ER CRU ROSE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Ripe, very dramatic, very generous ripe cherry and strawberry fruits around a firm core of tart cherry, citrus, and green apple. Good doughy bottle bouquet too./ Penetrating, with well chiseled fruit acidity and zesty mousse. Very expressive of pinot noir and meunier character. Taut and stylish, not austere. A good, mouthfilling complex and
feels and
flavors. 17.5. WT010307-02. 05 KREMSTAL GRUNER VELTLINER, E&M BERGER liter - (AUSTRIA) Full and hoppy-malty, smoky-grainy. Edamame, lentils and ham. Lively, zesty overtones of flowers, apple, loquat, and citrus./ Full, chewy, strong. Rich in glycerol. High-strung; great acidity. Best Berger GruVe yet. Begs for food. 16.2. WT010307-03. 05 KAMPTAL LOESS GRUNER VELTLINER, LUDWIG HIEDLER - (AUSTRIA) Fuller still. More mineral etching, more textural variegation. Full, nutty, grainy aromas. Dried peaches. Dried peas./ Full but also racy. Great acidity and nice astringency at the end. Really fills all corners of the mouth. Flavors of citrus, peach, kumquat, tumbo, and spices. Great with fiery southeast Asian dishes. 16.3+. WT010307-04. 06 MONKEY BAY MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) Oh! Big, racy gooseberry and grapefruit aroma. Pungent, insistent, nostril-opening like menthol./ Somewhat soft and sweet at the center, but there’s no denying the grassy zing and astringency. Lively, tangy grapefruit pulp. Good frame, body, and depth. Needs food. Straightforward, irrepressible. 16.0. WT010307-05. 06 BABICH MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW ZEALAND) More subdued. Lots of mineral. Compact and elegant. Just a bud./ Again, racy, compact, mineral-laden, elegantly wrought. Cool, sleek, stylish. Flavors of pear and citrus. Grip and chewiness. This needs a few months to unwind. Best in spring-summer. 16.0+. WT010307-06. 05 BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fat, smooth, ripe 05 fruit with a satiny oak sheen. Nice oak-fruit harmony. Handsome, regal station of Cote de Beaune. Full, expressive, juicy. Citrus, toast, and verbena aromas./ Big, penetrating, authoritative, Meursault like. Plenty of both fruit and oak material and grip, plus Burgundy terroir. Superb Bourgogne blanc. 16.7+. WT010307-07. 05 CHABLIS DESSUS LA CARRIERE, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh! Nice and fresh and bright apple and citrus Chablis fruit. Lush fruit, flinty Chablis terroir. Full richness of 05 and nice creaminess of Dessus./ Full-dimensioned, rich fruit and terroir statements. Vanilla creme, lemon creme. Good, full, appley fruit acidity. Generous, authoritative, well proportioned. Both the steak and the sizzle of
05. Best Dessus
yet? 16.3+. WT010307-08. 05 CHABLIS VOSGROS 1ER CRU, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh, boy! More-ish. Seems to have the depth and complexity of a barrel-aged wine, but, of course, it’s not seen wood. Shows that honey-and-nuts character of every Picq Vosgros. Rich, ample, open. Premier Cru density, concentration./ Full-bodied, structured; good mineral brace. Great acidity. Needs time to amplify its aromatics and textures further.
16.8+. WT010307-09. 05 CHABLIS LA FOREST 1ER CRU, VINCENT DAUVISSAT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Confirmed barrel-aging here, the oak subtle, smoky, and firm-textured. Cool, collected, confident. Big and broad fruit and calcaire terroir statements. Aromas of nuts, flowers, fig, stone fruits, and minerals./ Again, there’s oak, but it’s not as dominant as in some vintages here thanks to the ample mass of fruit material and terroir extraction.
Almost
as big as a Raveneau. Lively, tangy, classy. Ripe, dense, refined, polished. Great pedigree. 17.5+. WT010307-10. 05 JOSEPHSHOFER RIESLING KABINETT, VON KESSELSTATT - (GERMANY) Sleek, creamy yellow fruits. Firm casing around a fat, creamy center. Cool and stately perfumes of lime water, tart yellow berries, and flowers. Stately, powerful, while also seductive./ Yowsa! Intense! Big but graceful, accessible, fetching. Hints of honey and nuts. Fine 05 acid carriage. 05 has it all. Can’t spit this one out! 17.2. WT010307-11. 04 NEBBIOLO DELLE LANGHE PERBACCO, VIETTI - (ITALY) Wow! Vigorous cherry fruit aroma. Some VA, but its under control and directed in a positive manner. 04 black fruit. Plum, black cherry, dried fruits, tar, and licorice. Oak extras. Deep, racy, leathery, tannic. A sleek 04 nebbiolo classic./ Sweet cherry nebbiolo beauty and Langhe raciness. Very fine tannin. Rich in fruit extracts. Chewy. Great acidity,
astringency.
Well structured, well endowed, well crafted. Fabulous. Best vintage yet here. 16.9+. WT010307-12. 03 CHATEAU TOUR DE GUIET, COTES DE BOURG - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Here’s the ripeness of 03: round, generous, fully accomplished. Cherry cheesecake aromas. Hint of lavender. Properly rich 03 Bourg strengths./ Burst of fresh cherry-berry fruit on the palate. Kirsch and quetsch overtones. Solid, spicy, and generous. Full, soft, chewy tannins of 03. Lovely 03 Bourg. Can be enjoyed now; will improve. 16.0. WT010307-13. 05 CHATEAU BEAUSEJOUR, MONTAGNE SAINT EMILION - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Oh, yes! The class, the power, the oomph this wine always offers in a superior vintage. Surges from the glass and positively swells the nostrils and sinuses with its dense and vivid aromas of black cherry, tobacco, and florals. Wow!/ Huge and fine 05 ripe fruit. Fine tannin, peel extracts, grip, astringency of young Saint Emilion. The indisputable
quality
of ripe 05 fruit. Great potential. 16.6+. WT010307-14. 05 PEIRANO ESTATE SIX CLONES LODI MERLOT - (U.S.) Firm cherry and pit aromas. American oak adds vanilla, nut, and dill. Young and compact. Smoky, earthy, old time Lodi character that works./ Rich cherry and frosting flavors. Coconut and chocolate too. Sweet, racy, generous. Uniquely Lodi merlot that’s already fun to taste. Some attractive brown-spice oak seasonings. 15.4+. WT010307-15. 05 PEIRANO ESTATE LODI CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Fresh aromas of mint and red currant. The relative firmness and backwardness of cabernet./ Firm, young, nutty. Red fruit and peel. Brambly, spicy. Grip of cabernet fruit tannin. A young cabernet from a vintage that offers good acidity and structure. 15.6+. WT010307-16. 05 PEACHY CANYON INCREDIBLE RED PASO ROBLES ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Big, ripe, old fashioned Paso Robles zin. Sweet strawberry and cherry aromas./ Thick but also lively. Fruity, easy, spunky, fun. 15.0. |
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