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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- January, 2004 |
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January 28, 2004 wt021104-01. 2003
HUIA MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC - (NEW
ZEALAND) Bright gooseberry and grapefruit aromas with sweet tropical-fruit
overtones. Pungent, brisk, tangy, lively, and plump./ The flavor
is equally attractive, with a green pepper addition. Lively, spicy.
Modest acidity and depth. 16.2 wt021104-02. 2003
VERAMONTE CASABLANCA SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(CHILE) Good gooseberry and grapefruit aromas of Loire and New Zealand
sauvignons. Chile’s sauvignons are usually more like Bordeaux’s./
More alcohol than above. Riper, rounder flavors of peach, pear,
lemon-grass. Again, the acidity is modest. Some astringency on the
aftertaste. 15.8. wt021104-03. 2003
MONTES CURICO SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE)
Fat, ripe, sweet pear and vanilla. This is more the Bordeaux style./
Strong. Good body. Once again, the acidity is mild, but here the
alcohol better compensates. Plump, round, ripe. 15.3. wt021104-04. CRIA
DE COSECHAS MENDOZA TINTO - (ARGENTINA)
Sweet, ripe cranberry-orange nose. Lovely./ Flavorful too. Black
fruits and tobacco. Soft, mild, and sweetish. Medium bodied. Stylish.
Good strength gives it presence in the mouth. A bargain. 15.6. wt021104-05. 2001
NAVARRO CORREAS MAIPU MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Bright, rich, sweet cherry-anise-pitch malbec character. Sleek and
perfumed. Packed with fruit./ Flavorful, powerful. Medium bodied.
Stylish, spicy, well-measured Chianti-like form and acidity. Not
at all old-time, rancio. Welcomes food. 16.0. wt021104-06. 2003
TRAPICHE MENDOZA CABERNET SAUVIGNON -
(ARGENTINA) Sweet, vibrant apple-raspberry and peppercorn nose.
More like zinfandel than cabernet. Cedar and olive overtones./ Sweetly
fruity and medium bodied. Good, zingy fruit acidity lends balance.
Plump, lively, charming. Nice depth. Very attractive, young, modern
Trapiche. Nice value. 15.8. wt021104-07. 1999
SUTER SAN RAFAEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON -
(ARGENTINA) Smoky. Cherry-berry fruit. Some tar, licorice, tobacco.
Slightly reduced; needs air./ Alcohol and glycerol give body. Fine
tannins. Well balanced. Ready for the table. 15.4. wt021104-08. 1999
SUTER QUERUBINO SAN RAFAEL SYRAH - (ARGENTINA)
Smoky, sweet, strong, licorice-laced./ Heady, solid, four-square
black-fruit New World syrah feel and flavor. Medium bodied. Thins
out a bit at the end. 14.7. wt021104-09. 2001
MONTEVINA TERRA D’ORO OLD VINES DEAVER VINEYARD AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) The redeemer: big, bouncy, buxom, burlesque.
Daring, pungent, and powerful. Strong oak presence. Sweet, ripe,
roasted black fruits and chocolate. Old vines concentration. In
your face./ Huge, very heady, woody. Vanilla- and licorice-laced.
Untamed and tannic. Needs bottle age. Very promising. 16.8++.
January 21, 2004 wt012104-1. 2002
MUSCADET DES COTEAUX DE LA LOIRE, DOMAINE DE HAUTE-ROCHE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fullest and ripest vintage yet. Almost
peachy. Plus bright lime tang. Muscadet fulfilled./ Rich yet racy.
Crisp, tangy citricity, great piquance, mineral dusting. Lovely
muscadet tenderness too. Finest Terrien I’ve tasted. 16.0. wt012104-2. 2002
MENETOU SALON MOROGUES, HENRI PELLE -
(FRANCE LOIRE) Ripe and rich gooseberry and pineapple, even peach.
Grass, nut, meal, passion fruit, mineral./ Rich, juicy, racy, balanced.
Compact core fruit, fine focus, firm, pippy fruit acidity. You can
have it both ways in 2002: both fullness and raciness. Like the
dry white Bordeaux wines. Yum, yum! The best Morogues I’ve tasted.
16.4. wt012104-3. 2002
MENETOU SALON MOROGUES CLOS DE RATIER, HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) A hint of that creamy frosting and smoky-nuttiness
that is characteristic of Ratier. But this vintage is still unusually
tight–unless we’re just tasting it at a younger age. Impressive
structure, extract, potential./ Lots of acidity for Ratier. And
extract. These are not coated with the usual creaminess. That tropical
lushness is tightly contained by a mineral brace. Unprecedented
structure and substance. This runs deep. A keeper. 16.8+. wt012104-4. 2002
MENETOU SALON MOROGUES CLOS DES BLANCHAIS, HENRI PELLE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Great calcaire, great form and presence.
Burgundian-like frame. This is noble./ Full, strong, gripping. Important,
significant. Calcaire and citrus ventilation and race. Full minerality.
Fabulous future. I used to wonder about the justification of the
higher price and heavier bottle. No longer. The last two vintages
have established Blanchais as a French ‘Hall of Fame’ wine. 17.3+. wt012104-5. 2001
MACON LA ROCHE VINEUSE, OLIVIER MERLIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) A Merlin style of Macon: full, strong, meaty,
well-extracted. Not much if any oak; doesn’t need it. Especially
big for the vintage./ Balanced, juicy, well-textured. The acidity
is tender, as in a number of ‘01 white burgundies. Alcohol and extract
compensate. A generous meal-time wine. Can go straight to the table
but also good for 2-3 years in the cellar. 16.3+. wt012104-6. 2002
CHABLIS DESSUS LA CARRIERE, GILBERT PICQ
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Exciting. Full, rangy, rich in peel extracts.
Multiple white- and citrus-fruit experiences. Vanilla-coated like
the Vieilles Vignes, and without the help of oak. The feel, the
tingle of calcaire. That incisive struck-flint whiff. Deep citrus
and dried peel. And terroir./ Again. Full and strong. Everything
the grapes had to offer--including what they’d drawn from the soil--was
extracted into this wine. Best Carriere yet. 17.0+. wt012104-7. 2002
CHABLIS VAUCOUPIN 1ER CRU, GILBERT PICQ
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Piercing, penetrating calcaire. All extract
all the time. This is noble. Vaucoupin personified./ Volume, grip,
balance. Total extract. And finesse! All a young Picq Vaucoupin
could be. 17.6+. wt012104-8. 1999
CIRO RISERVA DUCA SAN FELICE, LIBRANDI
- (ITALY) Both ripe and racy. ‘99 all the way. Each of the last
three Ducas has been a mirror of its vintage, and each a success.
Warm, sweet, dried fruits of the south. Plum, smoke, wood, leather.
Rich and pungent./ Racy too, in the ‘99 vernacular. Always good
acidity in a Librandi Ciro. Ripe and tarry concentrate. Brandy-soaked
plum pudding. As it is meant to be. 16.7+.
January 14, 2004 wt011404-01. DUVAL
LEROY TRADITION BRUT CHAMPAGNE half bottle
- (SPARKLING) Good, full bottle bouquet. dough, baked goods. Lush,
plump, round./ A forward, toasty, and pleasing palate, on the sweet
side of brut but with crisp, bright chardonnay acidity and citrus
tang to counter. 16.2. wt011404-02. DUVAL
LEROY ROSE DE SAIGNEE BRUT CHAMPAGNE half bottle - (SPARKLING) Sweet, delicate cherry and strawberry highlights,
chiffon like. Fine mousse. The subtle red-fruit influence of the
saignee style./ Plump, ripe, tangy strawberry flavor with burnished
cherry background. Good pinot definition. Brioche bottle bouquet.
Very pleasing rose champagne. 16.4. wt011404-03. 2000
SUTER FESTINO SAN RAFAEL CHARDONNAY -
(ARGENTINA) Seems chipped because the wood’s apart from the fruit.
But this is attractively oaked nonetheless. It’s toasty, not raw
from oak extracts. Nice peach-pineapple warm-climate chardonnay
notes./ Sweet vanilla oak. A pleasant value still. Don’t keep past
summer though. 14.6. wt011404-04. 1999
SUTER PRESTO SAN RAFAEL MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Good, dark cherry malbec taking on a tarry aspect of maturity. Good,
sweet fruit and oak./ Sweet, with good tannin textural foil. Smooth
and balanced, melted tannins on the back of the palate. A little
high in pH. 15.0. wt011404-05. 2002
VAUCLUSE MERLOT-SYRAH, DOMAINE LA MONARDIERE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, with rich, sassy merlot and dark
syrah support. Lovely, really; fully satisfying./ Rich merlot cherry
with raspberry syrah. Balanced, flowing in the ‘02 mode. Yes, lovely.
Prince Charming. 16.0. wt011404-06. 2002
COTES DU RHONE LES CHEVREFEUILLES, DOMAINE LA REMEJEANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh and lively. Berry, garrigue,
spices. Rich for the vintage. Seems riper than the vaunted ‘99 even.
A lot of nerve./ Full bouquet of flowers. Great acid verve of ‘02.
Fine dusting of tannins. Chewy substance. 16.1+. wt011404-07. 2002
COTES DU RHONE LES ARBOUSIERS, DOMAINE LA REMEJEANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Decidedly darker and fuller.
Framboise aroma. More syrah presence? Vanilla overtone, though not
from wood. Rich. Cool and deep too. Racy, tonic. Dark, haunting
depths./ And floral. Like the former, the flowers bloom in the mouth.
‘02 crisp, with fine tannin. Fine depth. Very juicy, vibrant. Needs
some time. 16.3+. wt011404-08. 2001
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES LES GENEVRIERS, DOMAINE LA REMEJEANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Well! Here’s something altogether
more concentrated and powerful. Rich and ripe. Cohesive. Thorough.
Deep, with sappy, tarry peel and pulp extracts. Fruit, juice, flowers,
spices, anise./ Saturated with bombastic fruit flavors and extracts.
Chewy tannins. Huge flavor and texture concentrations. Best Genevriers
yet? 17.0++. wt011404-09. 2002
MARQUIS PHILIPS SE AUSTRALIA MERLOT -
(AUSTRALIA) Oak, vanilla, and green herbs. Rich but also vegetal./
Sweet greens. Not my favorite New World, warm-climate merlot style.
Too many are like this: paradoxically sweet and ripe, yet vegetal.
Surprised it could muster up a Parker 89. 14.8. wt011404-10. 2002
HARES CHASE BAROSSA VALLEY RED - (AUSTRALIA)
Delicious nose. Lovely oak toast and brown spices, with both the
power and sweetness of alcohol and plenty of rich fruit support.
Dark fruit, chocolate, and oak well integrated./ Rich, hefty, spicy,
toasty, sweet, well balanced. Delicious indeed. Go straight to the
table. 16.6. wt011404-11. 2001
TYRRELLS OLD WINERY SOUTH AUSTRALIA-HEATHCOTE-HUNTER VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Ripe, roasted Hunter-like power base with
Heathcote sweetness joining in. Hearty, generous, honest, old style.
Heart-on-sleeve./ Rich and ruddy. Hunter warmth and concentration.
Oak presence; adds seasoning. Wow! A blast from the past! Welcome
back! We need more Hunter Valley material. This delivers! 16.5. wt011404-12. KILIKANOON
KILLERMANS RUN SETTLERS SOUTH AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Very ripe. Lively, daring dash of VA. Cranberry, red
cherry, vanilla, dill, cedar. Flowers, oak, toast, warm spices.
Thick and powerful, almost jammy./ Again, VA crackle, warm spices,
sweetness, flowers, menthol. Melted tannins. Smooooth finish. 16.4.
January 7, 2004 wt010704-01. 2002
SANCERRE LA CROIX AU GARDE, HENRI PELLE
- (FRANCE) Full and tingly. Ripe gooseberry, grass, cat, spice,
flowers, perfume. ‘02 fruit richness. Vibrant, persistent, penetrating./
Add nettle, capsicum, grapefruit, mineral, exotica. Very rich flavor
and texture. Really fills the mouth. Chewy constitution. Vigorous,
refreshing acidity. Lingering. Earns its Decanter 5 Stars. 17.6. wt010704-02. 1999
CHIANTI CLASSICO, LE FILIGARE - (ITALY)
Real fortitude. Stout, strong. Deep, full, brooding. Dark and dried
fruits and berries. Good, firm wood. Composed and complete./ Blackberry,
cassis, plum, tobacco. Complex, multi-dimensional. Full, rich, ripe,
balanced. Good acidity and fine tannin. Chewy. Again, composed and
complete. What more can I say? Surely worth the premium. Better
than all previous vintages. 17.8 wt010704-03. 1996
CH ROLLAN DE BY, CRU BOURGEOIS, MEDOC
- (FRANCE) Full, ruddy, earthy. Menthol and tobacco overtones. Firm,
potent styling of ‘96./ The palate is less austere thanks to really
juicy fruitiness and rich, smooth glycerin. Cassis, plum, cedar.
The fruit is nicely ripe. Great substance and texture. This delivers,
and will deliver even more over the coming years. Not as much new
oak as in the ‘00. Doesn’t require it, really. 16.6+. wt010704-04. 2000
NAVARRO CORREAS ARGENTINA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (ARGENTINA) Very earthy, dense, skin-saturated, strong. Airs of
rancio. Old-time./ Strong and earthy again. Thick with extract.
But the tannins are melted. BIG mouthful of vinous substance. Traditional
Navarro Correas. Calls for Argentina’s national product: BEEF. 16.3. wt010704-05. 1998
GROOT CONSTANTIA SOUTH AFRICA ROOD - (SOUTH
AFRICA) Warm, dense, ruddy, mature. Leather. Cooked meat, root vegetables,
and leafy vegetables–a beef stew sort of nose./ Sweet fruit. Not
so rooty as nose. Plum, tobacco, leather. Good glycerin coating.
Well-integrated, complimentary, mealworthy., useful. 16.0. wt010704-06. 2001
GROOT CONSTANTIA SOUTH AFRICA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (SOUTH AFRICA) Good oak extras here. Good cabernet
sauvignon form: solid, forceful./ Cabernet sauvignon tannin. Good
wood. Well built. Cherry, chocolate, mint, tobacco, spices, vinosity.
Good tannic strength. Needs time. 16.3+. wt010704-07. 2000
GROOT CONSTANTIA SOUTH AFRICA SHIRAZ -
(SOUTH AFRICA) Lots of leather and horse. Smoky black and red fruits;
Rhone-ish. Strong. The alcohol is cooling rather than burning./
Very leathery. Dense, full, and powerful. Very flavorful, if you
like empyreumatic flavors. 15.8. wt010704-08. 2002
CRANEFORD JOHN ZILM BAROSSA VALLEY MERLOT
- (AUSTRALIA) Vivid oak spices, cedar airs, and intense fruit. Very
fruity. Blackberry and blueberry confiture. The fruit is perfectly
ripe and not a bit overripe./ Barossa sweet and sassy. Voluptuous,
smooth, and delicious. Succulent chocolate and cherry. A fine dessert
merlot; good chocolate wine. Or Chicken Mole? I can see the Parker
95. 17.2. wt010704-09. 2002
CRANEFORD JOHN ZILM BAROSSA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (AUSTRALIA) Sweet, powerful, penetrating. Cool cassis. Pure, pungent
cabernet sauvignon aromas. And solid cabernet sauvignon framing./
Sweet, fat, succulent. Better acidity than in the merlot and the
superior structure and tannin of cabernet sauvignon. That better
counters the Barossa fruit sweetness. Cassis, raspberry, eau de
vie. Good aftertaste, both texturally and flavor-wise. ‘Only’ Parker
91+, but I prefer it to the merlot. More useful at the table. 17.4+. wt010704-10. 2002
CRANEFORD BAROSSA VALLEY GRENACHE - (AUSTRALIA)
Fine, ripe, warm strawberry nose of Aussie grenache. Strawberries
that are so ripe that they’ve turning maroon and mushy. Cool bergamot
and nettle overtones. Light oak seasonings./ Full of fruit and oak
in tandem. Sweet, juicy grenache fruit. Parker (92) got raspberry
and cherry flavors last summer; I get more of the traditional grenache
strawberry at this stage of development. Fine tannin foil. 16.8. wt010704-11. 2001
KILIKANOON PRODIGAL CLARE VALLEY GRENACHE
- (AUSTRALIA) Ripe and jammy. Roasted fruits, chocolate, baked goods,
oak, dill. Mints and evergreens, particularly spruce. Last summer,
Parker (91) got balsam. Deep, cool, and ventilating, for sure. Dark
cassis too./ Demonstrative. Both sweet and racy. Candy cane flavor.
Rich and special. 16.8. wt010704-12. 2002
MILTON PARK SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Firm fruit and oak. Earth, tar, leather, menthol, and dry moss.
Full. Strong./ Some subtle oak flavors in harmony with the sweet,
ripe black fruits. Smooth alcohol and glycerol. Fresh, clean, cool
fruit. Appealing. 16.0.
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