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Wednesday, February 22, 2006 wt022206-01. 04
MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE DOMAINE DE BEAUREGARD - (FRANCE LOIRE) Fresh and perky. Nice Muscadet tenderness
too. Full and ripe. Fruit peels, vibrant yellow fruits like apple
and pear, and light sur lie grip. Lovely expression. A Muscadet
with something to say./ Full bodied and full textured for Muscadet.
Lots of fruit peel texture, grip, and some astringency. A super-sized
Muscadet in terms of concentration, but not in terms of exaggerated
ripeness like in 03. Bright, brisk, and lively, with a steely nervosity.
Well liked by the group. 15.8. wt022206-02. 05
GEYSER PEAK CALIFORNIA SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (U.S.) Tangerine, lime, grapefruit, grass, and jalapeno. The usual
reliable sauvignon fare from Geyser Peak./ Bright and tangy. Lovely
stuff. A touch peachy too. Expressive and engaging. Timed to be
perfect by late spring and into summer. 15.9. wt022206-03. 04
POUILLY FUME VIEILLES VIGNES, REGIS MINET
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Shows the extra year’s age. Earthy, chalky, terroir
driven. Deep, reserved, and vigorous. Smoky, elegant, complex, attractive.
Suggestions of gooseberry, green apple, and lemon./ Tangy, lively,
wound up. Nice old-vines strength, depth, and full form. Chewy,
earthy, chalky. Lots of extract; almost a tannic feel. Commendable
now and suggestive of an even brighter future. Well liked by the
group. 16.5+. wt022206-04. 04
CHABLIS VIEILLES VIGNES, OLIVIER SAVARY
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full. Has a vieilles vignes toastiness (almost
a woody aspect), sense of extra ripeness, and small-grape, thick-peel
concentration. Smoky-flinty./ Full, ripe, and toasty without being
oaky. Pungent, handsome, deep. This needs some time to spread out.
16.3+. wt022206-05. 04
VOUVRAY CLOS LE VIGNEAU, JUSTIN MONMOUSSEAU
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Minty and ventilating. Apple and calcaire./ Rich
apple, orange, and almond paste complex. Good sweet-acid balance.
Near dry–-sec tendre. Bright, tangy, and generous. Good stuff. Well
liked by the group. 16.1+. wt022206-06. 05
LINDEMANS BIN 99 SE AUSTRALIA PINOT NOIR
- (AUSTRALIA) Very sweet and primary aroma, with whole-berry fermentation
airs. Ripe, smoky black fruits with cool menthol overtones. Cherry
and strawberry confections./ Validation of sweet, cherry-like pinot
character. Real pinot, real smooth. Enough acidity and dash of fine
tannin to keep it from being cloying. Has balance and charm. Just
good clean fun, as it no doubt is intended to be. 15.0. wt022206-07. 04
GALLO FAMILY VINEYARDS RESERVE SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) New label, new brand, new ambitions. Wow! Nice
oak complex and deep fruit. Lots of spicy savor. Smells like a $25
California pinot. Lots of vanilla. Brett and dekk touches too–at
a complexing level./ Yes, fruit, animal, and tea. Black cherry and
chocolate. Plenty of suave, toasty oak. A hefty pinot. Lots to give
at the price. 16.1. wt022206-08. 04
SEBASTIANI SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
More floral, more purple, more fruit finesse. Less oak to start.
Deep and peppery. Now oak toast becomes more evident; then the vanilla
comes out. Still, the oak aromatic set remains different from the
above./ Yes, great oak full of vanilla and sexy spices. Plenty of
deep, dark fruit. Darker-toned overall. 16.2. wt022206-09. 04
SUMMERLAND SANTA BARBARA PINOT NOIR -
(U.S.) Quite a different breed of pinot. Decidedly cool climate
and typical of Santa Barbara. Tart rather than sweet cherry. Cool,
elegant tones like tea and peel extracts. Light oak–much less than
the above pair. With airing, the aroma begins to run deep./ Suave
textured. Smooth but not glossy. There’s plenty of textural play.
Zesty tart cherry and tea flavors, with a bitter chocolate nuance.
Good body and tannin. 16.0+. wt022206-10. 03
RIVER’S EDGE UMPQUA VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Deep, lacquery oak. Cool, stern, and tarry. Oak char. Nice
floral, perfumed overtones. Switch to an Oregon character./ Drier
and more austere than the California pinots. More acidity. Northern
elegance. Quite powerful though, with some roasted fruit, which
somewhat reflects the warmth of 03 and the southern Oregon origin.
Riper than the 02. 16.3+. wt022206-11. 04
LA MANCHA TEMPRANILLO, CAMPOS REALES -
(SPAIN) Full, rich tempranillo berry. Some primary oomph with airs
of smoke and green olive. Quite ripe, fruity, luscious, and with
plenty of herbals and black fruits./ Rich, well tuned, concentrated
berry with good acid verve. Nice herb-olive elements and southern
smokiness. 15.4. wt022206-12. 04
RIBERA DEL DUERO, VINA GORMAZ - (SPAIN)
Ripe, full, hearty, husky black fruits and nuts. Dense, lush, and
deep, with Ribera del Duero manliness. Rich and layered./ Cool,
classy blue fruits of the palate, validating RdD’s tinta pais version
of tempranillo. Good acidity, pliable tannins, ripe and plentiful
for a wine in this price range. Super Ribera del Duero value. 16.0+. wt022206-13. 04
COTES DU VENTOUX, LA VIEILLE FERME - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Spicy, lively red fruits. Tightly knit and quite
tough still./ Good acidity. Firm, young, and ambitious. A wine of
modest stature with a Napoleon complex. 15.8+. wt022206-14. 03
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, MAS DE BOISLAUZON
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! Chateauneuf big, 03 big. Ripe, warm,
savory, peppery, unabashedly generous. Garrigue, wildflowers, spices,
plum, blackberry, woodsmoke. Fine dried fruit aroma set./ Voluminous,
large-scaled, powerful, ripe, rangy, spicy, nuanced. Good acidity,
some fine tannin for aging. Size and viscosity of a big, ripe, authoritative
Chateauneuf. One loaded Cotes du Rhone Villages! 16.8+. wt022206-15. 04
PLAN DE DIEU COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Deep, strong, spicy, peppery,
tarry, very concentrated. Reserved and stately. Garrigue, sachet,
anise./ Fine tannin in spades. Lots of extract, lots of material.
There’s fruit down deep in there; it’s sequestered for now. This
wine is just plain too young. Needs a year or two to open up. I
like its posture and promise. 16.2+. wt022206-16. 04
VACQUEYRAS LES CALADES, DOMAINE DE MONARDIERE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dense, thick, tough, ripe dried fruits./
Palate is livelier, more yielding. Red and black fruits, anise,
underbrush, minerals, animal tones, touches of cedar and blackberry.
Fine depth. Backward and tannic at the core. Its future generosity
is clear. Real Vacqueyras. 16.0+. wt022206-17. 03
VACQUEYRAS RESERVE LES DEUX MONARDES, DOMAINE DE MONARDIERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, boy! Very thick and also
very bright fruit. Gorgeous grenache nose, fat and spicy, showing
ripeness and viscosity. Really dense and classy. Real old vines
concentration. Blueberry, plum, cassis, tobacco, and smoke aromas./
Yes, the density, the class, the viscosity. Plus power and extract.
Flavors of black and red raspberries, roasted meat, underbrush,
peppercorn. Fat and sassy, full and chewy. Good depth and tannic
support. Has it all for now and later. 16.7+.
Wednesday, February 15, 2006 wt021506-01. 04
ALTO ADIGE PINOT GRIGIO ALTANUTA, JOSEF BRIGL
- (ITALY) Rich and full for an Alto Adige grigio. Good weight and
depth. Nuts, ripe lemon, pear, and tawny peach. Crisp, cool, classy,
elegant. Angular and penetrating./ Cool, clear, and vibrant. Great
acidity and minerality. Delicious. 16.2. wt021506-02. 04
KAESLER OLD VINE BAROSSA VALLEY SEMILLON
- (AUSTRALIA) Full, properly viscous. Woody. Pear, apple, tropics,
lemon creme./ Strong, fine semillon pungency. Good acidity and viscosity
establish a balance. Dry and viscous finish. Needs time for more
oak absorption. 15.6+. wt021506-03. 05
WISHING TREE UNOAKED WESTERN AUSTRALIA CHARDONNAY - (AUSTRALIA) Brilliant, fresh, pure, vibrant, lucid
fruit. Crisp apple and meyer lemon. Both plump and alert./ Steely,
minerally. Wonderfully stylish acidity. A zippy chardonnay with
a crisp bite and full juiciness. Fine depth. Great value. 16.0. wt021506-04. 04
MACON VILLAGES CHARDONNAY, LOUIS JADOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full, tingly, crisp, northern, 04 chardonnay
style with light kiss of toasty oak. Nice depth of fruit character./
Yes, crisp and zingy and full too. Great structure and race. Real
burgundy. Real mealtime fullness. Boy, does Jacques Lardiere know
how to make wine! 16.2. wt021506-05. 04
CARNEROS CREEK RAMSHEAD RESERVE SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Huge improvement over the 03. Cherry fruit and
candy, oolong tea, sausage, and tobacco. A nice, rich, warm-climate
pinot of good varietal definition./ Again, good varietal traits
of cherry, tea, and meat. Sweet fruit and good acidity too. Good
price as coastal Calif pinots go these days. 16.0. wt021506-06. 04
VAUCLUSE DOMAINE DES AMOURIERS - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Deep and hide-bound. Dark and somber fruit. Smoked
and peppered meat. Ripe for 04./ Rich and full textured. Lively.
Fine depth and class. Lots of tannin. Rugged. More rugged than the
04 norm. Time should mellow it. 15.6+. wt021506-07. 03
BOURGUEIL CLVUEE ALOUETTES, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANC E LOIRE) Fully 03 ripe and powerful, with dried
fruit, nut, leather, and brett. Bourgueil magnified. Tremendously
generous cabernet franc raspberry and bramble./ Flavors of raspberry
liqueur, ripe bell pepper, and tobacco. Powerful, tannic, bold,
aggressive even. A freak of nature, this 03 vintage. More daunting
than seductive at this stage. Clearly handsome and impressive. Serve
with hearty fare or cellar 2-5+ years. 16.3+. wt021506-08. 04
SANTA JULIA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Deep, dark, and truthful black cherry malbec fruit with some black
raspberry and chocolate. Round spicy, nervy, slightly oaky./ Palate
confirms all. Lots of extract. Tannic yet. Will prove a great value
if first given some cellar time. 15.2+. wt021506-09. 04
CASA LAPOSTOLLE RAPEL VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (CHILE) Outrageously lush and ripe and showy. Apple-raspberry,
plus red and black currants. Sweet fruit, cigar box, and a kiss
of brown-spice, perfumed, sexy oakiness./ Sweet and sassy, with
plush texture and good acidity and light tannin. Lots to give. Boy,
is this winemaker in tune with the market! 16.1. wt021506-10. 99
CHATEAU MOULIN RICHE, SAINT JULIEN - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) One whiff, and deja vu. Brings back the old days of tasting
mature, middle-vintage clarets on a steady basis. Years like 67,
71, 79, 81. Savory and mature, this second wine of Leoville Poyferre.
A full, classic, mature claret with aromas of tea, mushroom, underbrush,
and seasoned wood. And plenty-bright fruit yet! Complete./ Lots
of St. Julien plummy charm. The 99 fresh acidity welcomes food.
Supple tannins. Delicious maturity. Reminds me of 67s and 79s. 16.8. wt021506-11. 03
DOLCETTO D’ALBA MONTE ARIBALDO, MARCHESI DI GRESY - (ITALY) Soft, lovely, tender red fruits. Ripe cherry,
cola, and rosemary airs. Perky, spicy, plummy. The palate has lots
of depth, third dimension. Wonderful Dalmatian cherry darkness and
flavor. Lots of brightness, class, charm. Classic; complete. 16.5. wt021506-12. 01
SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA, COSME TAURINO
- (ITALY) Prune, raisin, rancio...and right. Plentiful late harvest
qualities. Soft, roasted warmth, sun-baked fruits, smokehouse nuts
and meats./ Yes, sun-drenched. But admirably racy in the 01 style.
Not has heady and aggressively tannic as some vintages. That’s to
my liking. Very facile, stylish, melted tannins and bright acidity.
Good now and will age well in the mid-term. 15.9. wt021506-13. 01
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, ZACCAGNINI -
(ITALY) Polished, pure, stylish, lovely. Fine varietal expression
of the grape’s innate nobility when not grown on the plains to the
tune of 20 tons per acre. Runs deep. Violets, black raspberry, tar,
coffee, chocolate. Fabulous nose, really./ Sweet and very milk chocolatey.
Like a chocolate liqueur. Good acidity. Sassy mouthful of flavors
and textures. Long aftertaste. Delicious. 16.4. wt021506-14. 01
BARBARESCO, VILLA ILARIA - (ITALY) Lean
and racy and firm. Brooding, angular. Plum, black cherry, tobacco,
tar and fennel. Some viscosity. Has the right structural stuff for
01./ Medium bodied. Again, good viscosity. Good build and acidity.
Dried fruit. Dry rugged tannins. Could be a sleeper at this price
if given adequate cellar time. 16.6+. wt021506-15. 03
VERONESE CAPITEL SAN ROCCO RIPASSO, TEDESCHI
- (ITALY) Rich, sweet, and ripe. Big, warm, savory, generous. A
proper ripasso. Leather, dried cherry, smoked meats, tobacco, and
spices. Liqueur-like thickness./ Yes, thick-textured. Full, concentrated,
dense. Plump and polished, with a firm core and grip of ripe tannins.
Will deliver more as the years pass. Nice effort. 17.0+. wt021506-16. 04
ANDREW MURRAY TOUR LES JOURS CENTRAL COAST SYRAH - (U.S.) Oh, wow! Murray does it again! Dense and spicy
in a Northern Rhone style. Berry, pepper, bacon, and flowers. Fresh
and alert./ Yes, it has the flowers and finesse and style of a Northern
Rhone syrah. And ripe, chocolatey California appeal too. Good acidity,
richness, length. Murray has it down. 16.7+. wt021506-17. 04
ROSENBLUM SAN FRANCISCO BAY ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Ripe, cooked, thick fruit stew with alcohol added. And
smoky, dilly American oak./ Aussie like sweetness, exaggerated ripeness,
with some underripe fruit throw in. Alcohol heat. Not up to the
single-vineyard, Bay-area Rosenblum zins. 14.8. wt021506-18. 04
ROSENBLUM PASO ROBLES ZINFANDEL - (U.S.)
Ripe but not as awkward as the above. Sweet black cherry, with raisin
and oak. Paso Robles sweet personality./ Sweetness overwhelms the
acidity. Thick and syrupy. Must be at least 2.0 r.s. Not as good
as the Sauret Vineyard bottlings. 15.6.
Wednesday, February 2, 2006 wt020106-01. P.
MONCUIT CUVEE HUGUES DE COULMET BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) From the Cote de Sezanne - Good blanc de
blancs levity. Apple, citrus, and dough. Bright, ripe, dramatic,
and sexy. Plenty of fruit and froth./ Rich and sweetish. Easy. Less
serious than the Le Mesnil NV brut. Fat, sassy, spicy, citric, vital,
vibrant, and enticing. Good acidity, minerality, and freshness.
17.2. wt020106-02. R-H
COUTIER AMBONNAY GRAND CRU ROSE BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) Lots of strawberry, ripe, full, and seductive. Also
cherry and blossom. Bread dough bottle bouquet. Big, ripe, and burly.
I wonder if 03 rouge was used to tint it./ Big, rich, lush, almost
chewy red fruit. Quite a ripe fruit statement. Plenty of bottle
bouquet in support. 16.4. wt020106-03. 05
DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CLARKSBURG CHENIN BLANC
- (U.S.) Like the MAN chenin last week, this has a lot of sauvignon
blanc grass and grapefruit personality. But also chenin apple and
melon. Very fresh and snappy, bright and tangy./ Palate softer and
milder, more in tune with Clarksburg chenin. Pineapple-orange flavors.
Plenty of zippy new-wine fruit vitality. A mingling of fermentation
and fruit flavors at present. The former will subside and the latter
well up by summer. 15.8. wt020106-04. 03
SANTA RITA RESERVA CASABLANCA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Say, this is fresh enough still. With reserve
fullness. Good orange, olive, and herb aroma of a developing sauvignon.
Touch of oak./ A bit full to start, but there’s good juicy acidity.
Very flavorful and long on the finish, with acid slash and alcohol
burn. 15.5. wt020106-05. 03
SANFORD SANTA BARBARA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Good, generous ripe fruit and power The oak is nicely measured.
Pineapple, toasted coconut, and cereal grains./ The oak is nice:
rich flavors of vanilla and buttered toast. Both oak and fruit sweet.
Suave and engaging. 16.2. wt020106-06. 04
MEURSAULT CHEVALIERES, THIERRY MATROT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good oak toast and char. Meursault fullness,
roundness, richness. Weighty aromas of citrus, grain, sweetmeal,
and nut./ Crisp, bright, and alert acidity of 04. Fine complex of
barrel-fermentation and malolactic flavors. Both body and cut. Most
generous. Good vintage for Matrot. 17.3+. wt020106-07. 05
CLINE CALIFORNIA VIOGNIER - (U.S.) Some
H2S muddies the water still, but the yellow fruit characters come
through. Dried orange, peach, apple, tropics./ Perfumed and succulent
on the palate. Viscous. Rather powerful. Needs a few months or a
vigorous decanting to alleviate the sulphur. 14.9+. wt020106-08. 04
BEARBOAT RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Lush, ripe, and forward. Tons of strawberries. Hints of
cola and barrel aromas./ Russian River Valley varietal clarity and
definition.. Plenty of oak, extract, and power. 16.2. wt020106-09. 04
PATRICIA GREEN RESERVE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Dense, smoky, and very ripe for Oregon. Dark
berries, milk chocolate, and touch of animal./ Lovely Cote de Nuits
style, showing black fruits, coffee, and nuts. Supple, with fine
depth. More to come. 16.0+. wt020106-10. 03
DUNNEWOOD CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Dense, dark, smoky dark fruits. Plenty of American oak.
Lush and fruity./ Generous red and black fruits. Direct, easy to
drink, well crafted. Fresh and sweet fruit coating. 15.3. wt020106-11. 02
FOX CREEK MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ-GRENACHE
- (AUSTRALIA) Leathery and smoky. Lots of black fruit and tobacco.
Good shiraz character. Beginning to fill out./ Lots of black cherry
and eucalyptus flavors, with spicy-oaky extras. 15.6. wt020106-12. 04
SMOKING LOON CALIFORNIA SYRAH - (U.S.)
Dark, smoky, oaky. Vanilla, berries, and plentiful syrah extract./
Rich and sweet and generous in fruit and oak vanillin. Popular.
Don Sebastiani does it again. 15.0. wt020106-13. 03
COTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES, CHATEAU DE PENA
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Striking black licorice and garrigue elements.
Ripe and compact./ Dense and stern. Compact black fruits. Exceptionally
well framed for this warm vintage. This will need some time. 15.5+. wt020106-14. (03)
FRANCAIS ROUGE LITTLE JAMES BASKET PRESS, ST. COSME - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet and ripe and sassy. 03
roasted fruit./ Sweet and sassy, with warm spices. Lots of power.
Generous. 14.8. wt020106-15. 03
GIGONDAS LA GILLE, PERRIN - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
03 richness and sweetness. Dried and candied fruits in pastry. Roasted
meats. Generous, warm, ripe./ Dry, expressive, deep, able. Garrigue
and warm-spice flavors. Sleek and sophisticated, with fine depth.
16.1. wt020106-16. 03
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE LES SINARDS, PERRIN
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Big, ripe, old fashioned. Dense, rich,
and aromatically rangy. Sweet red and black raspberries and fruit
brandy./ Big, frank, and generous in an old fashioned Chateauneuf
way. Plenty of garrigue, including sage. Sweet and rich. Fine depth.
16.5. wt020106-17. 04
MITOLO THE JESTER MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Cool, reduced, deep, dark, dense, purple. Classic
to Mitolo and 04./ Rich and full of sweet, cool, berry fruit. Extract
and length impressive. Great future. 16.4+.
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