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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- February, 2005 |
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Wednesday, February 23, 2005 wt022305-01. 2003
VENEZIE PINOT GRIGIO ESPERTO, LIVIO FELLUGA
- (ITALY) Mild varietal character. Soft, easy. Not much zip to start.
Fills and deepens with airing however./ Mild and vinous. Little
pinot gris expression at first. Decent acidity. Well enough balanced.
With airing it becomes more expressive, showing more breadth, grip,
and extract. 15.2. wt022305-02. 2003
COLLIO PINOT GRIGIO, MARCO FELLUGA - (ITALY)
Much fuller and finer from the get go. Real varietal character,
nuttiness, extra body. Really vibrant surge of fruit, aromatic and
textural assault on the nostrils./ Lemon, nut, and tonic flavors.
Full, strong. Chewy extract. Great volume, presence. Fine depth.
Refreshing acid brace. Yes! 16.2. However, others thought the former
more expressive. I raised my score after aeration, but I can’t see
it coming close to this one. Better pedigree (Collio vs Venezie)
definitely makes its mark. wt022305-03. 2003
KAMPTAL LOESS GRUNER VELTLINER, LUGWIG HIEDLER
- (AUSTRIA) Delicate sweet pea and lentil gru ve aromas. Then come
apple and nut. Floral highlight./ Soft, with just a light grip.
Decent acidity, balance, depth. Nice, gentle, balanced approach.
Embracing, really. 16.3. wt022305-04. 2003
BOURGOGNE BLANC, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Good, rich oak toast and vanilla, and rich fruit complement
too. Relatively cool fruit for ‘03. Malic juiciness along with barrel-ferment
and ripe fruit creaminess. Plenty of alcohol of the cooling sort.
Striking in mass for a Bourgogne. A full-fledged Cote de Beaune
blanc, really./ Rich oak vanilla, aromatic woods, and spices. Fruit
and oak in balance, as are acid and alcohol. Well extracted. Bold,
authoritative. A terrific Bourgogne, perhaps Boillot’s best ever.
He’s handled 2003 well. 16.7. wt022305-05. 2003
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) A firmer oak and more appley fruit approach. Hard-surfaced
at this stage. Shows density and depth after airing./ Vanilla and
toast oak flavors. And a grainy Meursault-like aspect. And minerality.
Good acidity. This is typically of firm nature when young due to
both the fruit style and the Boillot choice of oak and vinification.
Only the softness on the finish exclaims 2003's exceptional warmth.
Good future here. 16.5+. wt022305-06. 2003
MEURSAULT LES CHARRONS, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Big, creamy, grainy, nutty Meursault statement.
Full, suave, toasty oak. And the fruit is fuller still (!) and gives
the oak a creamy coating. Full-fledged Meursault density. Lots of
subtleties to boot./ Wow! Big, fat, creamy-smooth, soft, young.
Tres Meursault, Tres 2003. Will fill further with time. 17.0+. wt022305-07. 2003
WEINHEIMER HOLLE SILVANER HALBTROCKEN, GERNOT GYSLER liter - (GERMANY) Yow! A white wine with a red fruit nose!
Fresh, wild, woodsy strawberries. Unique and penetrating perfume
for a silvaner./ Rich and nutty and creamy. Good acid-sugar balance.
Delicious, really. Not as gripping, tensile, and extract-laden as
the 2001 and 2002, but makes up for this with 2003 fruit ripeness,
brightness, uniqueness. Once again, Gysler’s silvaner is a highly
recommendable mealtime wine. 16.2. wt022305-08. 2003
WEHLENER RIESLING KABINETT, J-J PRUM -
(GERMANY) H2S as usual in a young Prum wine. Why does only one reviewer
ever publish this? Emperor’s new clothes? I mean, sure, it’s going
to go away. It’s part of the reason Prum’s wines need so much time
to mature. Peach and flowers aromas come with considerable aeration./
H2S again, and the positive aromas are reconfirmed too. Coated acidity
yet. Fine depth. Needs time; will age well. 15.9+. wt022305-09. 2003
NAHE ESTATE RIESLING, HERMANN DONNHOFF
- (GERMANY) Yow! Compact, secretive, close-knit, silky, seamless.
Fine extract. Ethereal, enticing fruit and flower perfumes. Mineral
and citrus. Noble, stately, aloof, fine./ Explosive palate. Full,
tangy grip of extract. Chewy minerality. Just-right dash of sweetness.
Structured, loaded. From Germany’s top estate, its finest Qba, no
doubt. 17.2. wt022305-10. 2003
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Both rich and bright. The vintage gives the richness,
the winemaker the brightness, the freshness, the framing and focus.
The consummate 2003 Villages. Creamy black fruit, cool licorice.
All-penetrating perfume./ Cool and racy, whilst rich in fruit. Ideal
balance. Big and buxom blockbuster Beaujolais. Near perfect Villages
achievement. 16.4. wt022305-11. 2002
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET CLOS ST. JEAN 1ER CRU, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Wow! Smoky plum and oak and black
cherry. Cool peel too. Seamless Chassagne presentation./ Cool and
racy young ‘02 nature. Dark, plummy Chassagne rouge qualities. Fine
tannin, acid. Fine balance. Taut and classic red burgundy, well
structured, still rather aloof. ‘02 style and quality all the way.
Good future. 16.9+. wt022305-12. 2001
NAPA CELLARS NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) New oak galore. Sweet, ripe raspberry fruit. Very dramatic.
Trumpets its arrival. Creamy, nutty, soft, lush, elegant./ Big and
still firm ‘01 style of cabernet fruit. Good acidity. Oak, cassis,
spice, and chocolate flavors. Verve and finesse show through all
the dramatic oak and ripe fruit. 16.5+. wt022305-13. 2003
CHIANTI, PUCCINI - (ITALY) Boy, that’s
a tough act to follow for this little guy. A bit reduced–good sign
in a ripe vintage like this. Red-fruited and spicy. Dried fruit
and roasted meat aspects of a warm Tuscan growing season./ Light
but sweet enough fruit. Good acidity for ‘03. Nice delivery, bounce,
and balance. Modest tannin. Good value. 15.0. wt022305-14. 2003
TOSCANA ROSSO DEI NOTRI, TUA RITA - (ITALY)
Intense surge of oak and purple fruit, properly proportioned. Powerful.
No ‘03 roast–well crafted. White chocolate-covered raspberries.
Sangiovese and cabernet?/ International style. Sweet plum and cherry
as well as raspberry, with wildflower flair. A little strong and
hot in the ‘03 mode, but after overall consideration, well enough
balanced. 16.6. wt022305-15. 2001
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO, COL D’ORCIA - (ITALY)
Raw, hot, rustic, stinky, cooked./ Mild acidity and literally sweet
fruit that seems cooked down. Hot, raw alcohol. Poor example of
DOC and vintage. 8.0. wt022305-16. 2000
BAROLO ZONCHERA, CERETTO - (ITALY) Powerful,
tarry, chocolaty, big 2000 style. Ah! But there’s the Ceretto containment,
the control. It doesn’t overstep its bounds. Good future predicted./
Yes, Ceretto nerve, form, and finesse. ‘00 ripe but not overrripe.
Flavors of plum, cherry, tar, tobacco, and violets. Well balanced
and looking forward to mid-range cellaring time. 17.2+. wt022305-17. 2000
BAROLO ROCCHE, AURELIO SETTIMO - (ITALY)
More-ish. More powerful, woodier. Deeper, more penetrating. Big,
dense, compact, leathery. The old style. Daunting, really./ Cool
black cherry, flowers, woods, and licorice. Wide-ranging and deep
flavors and textures. Chewy extract and tannin. Full grip. Great
length. This has a great future too. 17.6+. wt022305-18. 2003
BOGLE OLD VINES CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL -
(U.S.) Soft, easy, sweet and dried black fruits, juicy and lush.
Jam and coffee elements. Breakfast zin?!/ Sweet and juicy strawberry
flavor. Round, grapey, zesty, spicy. 15.8.
Wednesday, February 16, 2005 wt021605-01. 2004
ALAMOS MENDOZA VIOGNIER - (ARGENTINA)
Full and strong. Lots of presence but pretty low key varietal aromatics.
Although identifiably viognier (peach, tropical fruit). No doubt
a matter of winemaker’s choice of style with table use in mind./
Zesty, tingly mouthfeel. Fresh, piquant acidity. Strong, penetrating,
and generous. Viscous. And flavorful. The varietal character is
more pronounced in the flavor than in the aroma. Shows fine flair.
The proper varietal astringency on the finish too (to foil the viscosity).
Overall, a plentiful viognier that will have broader dinner applications
than the lighter, more perfumed versions. 16.0. wt021605-02. 2003
NAPA WINE CO. YOUNTVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (U.S.) Full, sweet fruit aromas. Candied orange peel, gooseberry,
pear, and peach. Relatively subdued though compared to younger,
cooler climate versions. Due to age or due to warmth of origin or
growing season? Yountville’s cool as Napa goes, and 2003 was not
terribly torrid. So age perhaps./ A pleasant melange of flavors
supports the aroma set and adds a spicy quality. A little too high
in alcohol and low in acidity to be called refreshing. At least
it’s not complicated by oak excesses. Might be better appreciated
with the right cuisine. 15.2. wt021605-03. 2004
WISHING TREE UNOAKED WESTERN AUSTRALIA CHARDONNAY - (AUSTRALIA) Strong and warm. Apple and peel. And citrus.
And bubblegum. The no-wood concept is inviting, but the wine doesn’t
soar, even without the oak lid./ The peel extracts give almost a
woody impression. Hard press? What’s the point? To simulate an oaked
wine without oak? Too much alcohol, too little acid. The point of
no wood is lost. This wine is supposed to refresh, but it doesn’t.
14.6. wt021605-04. 2003
RULLY GRESIGNY 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet and ripe chardonnay fruit. Due to the warmth
of the vintage, the citrus aspect of chardonnay is more orange than
lemon. Nice high-toast oak seasoning commensurate with the fruit
amplitude. Traditional Gresigny full body. Hefty, strapping. Cool
enough ‘03 overall and showing good mineral substrata./ Sweet oak,
sweet fruit. Mild acidity, but enough to add a sassy edge to the
sweetness. Good craftsmanship in a very warm vintage. 16.5. wt021605-05. 2003
RULLY LA PUCELLE 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Very sweet vanilla oak and orange fruit to open.
Less full, more delicate, than the Gresigny. Which is typical. The
sense of place is not lost through all this ripeness../ Yes, more
elegant, high toned. Good oak seasoning–different from the Gresigny.
Viscous mouthfeel. Again, both sweet and sassy. 16.9+. wt021605-06. 2003
RULLY MONT PALAIS 1ER CRU, J-M, BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) More open-grained and full oakiness. More oak
toast. A hefty, powerful, dense, lusty, buxom young wine. Ripe,
sweet fruit. Peach and caramel notes./ Open grained and toasty-nutty
indeed. Juicy, bright, and elegant. Full, powerful. Salty mineral
extracts. Coated acidity., smooth mouthfeel. 16.6+. wt021605-07. 2003
RULLY LES CLOUX 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet vanilla and toast oak. Strong char relative
to the others. The beauty of this range year after year is not only
its expression of the various terroirs, but also how Boillot the
winemaker tailors his barrels to each, which enhances the diversity
of the range’s aromas, flavors, and textures. Ripe, rich fruit,
including mango and papaya. Minerals./ Palate confirms plenty of
oak char. Good sweet fruit here, and an stony terroir expression.
The flavors will appreciate more time to fill out. 16.4+. wt021605-08. 2003
NIERSTEINER RIESLING KABINETT, J&H STRUB liter - (GERMANY) Full and fine grain and grape nose of Nierstein
riesling. Likely of spatlese must weight. Peach, nectarine, orange
zest, and sweet corn. Snappy red currant. Tingly extract, not so
sugar coated as in many young ‘03s. 2003 generous, but it’s not
exaggerated. There’s a sense of measure and control./ Palate adds
pear, apple, and honey to the aromatic set. Very entertaining. Softness
of the vintage and of Rheinhessen riesling. But there’s enough piquant
acidity, and the sweetness isn’t excessive, so the overall impression
is one of balance and mealworthiness. Right now! 16.6. wt021605-09. 2003
DURKHEIMER NONNENGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT, KURT DARTING liter - (GERMANY) Intense, honeyed, nectarous. Striking apple,
green-grape, peach, citrus, and lush, tropical-fruit aromas. Full
of zingy extract too. Super. Exuberant./ Again, it’s sweet and full
but also zingy. And aromatically intense. Rides the line, stays
balanced. More demonstrative than the Niersteiner, but narrower
in mealtime applications. 16.7. wt021605-10. 2003
SIDURI WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR -
(U.S.) Bright, forward, and enticing. Plush, soft red fruits: raspberry
and cherry. Underbrush too./ Explosive fruit on the palate. Cherry
cough drop sweetness and spiciness, plus oak toast and spices, plus
dark chocolate. Good acidity, fine depth. 16.2+. wt021605-11. 2003
BOURGUEIL CUVEE BEAUVAIS, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Wow! Uniquely ripe Loire cabernet franc.
Yes, there’s some bell pepper, but its not green; it’s sweet. Gobs
of fruit, grass, spice, and tobacco. A sexy cabernet franc, distractingly
gorgeous. Warm-climate cabernet anchovy note, plus grating cheese
(parmesan) and CF raspberry. And tar and brett! Yikes! Unique Loire
reds this vintage./ Full flavored and full textured. Tannin, grip,
frame, solidity. Ripe core fruits of raspberry and blackberry. Good
weight, depth, and persistence. Will thrive with time in bottle.
Larger than life Loire rouge 16.2+. wt021605-12. 2003
BOURGUEIL VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Wow! Deeper, darker fruit and fruit
peels. Even more superlatives. Exotic, round, racy. Bitter chocolate,
tobacco, and a refined overtone of violets. Licorice and black earth
too./ Wow! Old vines sweet intensity, ripeness, extract, depth.
Big, ripe tannins. Full peel extract. This really needs more time!
16.5+. wt021605-13. 1998
CHATEAU LES ORMES DE PEZ, CRU BOURGEOIS EXCEPTIONNEL, SAINT ESTEPHE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Deep, brooding black fruit, St. Estephe
clay, good oak seasoning. The nose is softening, mellowing. Bouquet
of cassis, olive, tobacco, and cured meat./ Flavors of cedar, bacon,
and leather. Some brett here too–it’s positive. I like the way the
wine’s progressing. Good depth and complexion. Commands respect.
Tannin to shed yet. Cellar 2-3 years more. 16.2+. wt021605-14. 1998
CHATEAU HAUT BAILLY, GRAND CRU, PESSAC LEOGNAN
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Fine oak. Savory bouquet starting to form. Graves
earth, oak spices, 1998's solid black fruit. Plum, black currant,
olive, tobacco. Grand Cru breed, intrigue, nuance./ Rich and full.
Grand Cru aromatic complexity confirmed. Less dry tannin than the
Les Ormes because less cabernet and clay. Good brett component.
Texture rich and thick. Overall, very typical of the estate, and
a good showing in ‘98. Definite potential for marvelous bouquet
in 3-4 years. 16.8+. wt021605-15. 2003
MANZANITA CANYON CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Ripe and spicy. Blackberry jam. Valley cabernet anchovy.
Very full and generous./ Sweet and ripe but not cooked. North San
Joaquin Valley rather than south. Has texture, dryness, tannin,
and grip to be respected. Generous in both flavor and texture. Well
crafted value. 14.8. wt021605-16. 2001
BYINGTON ALLIAGE SONOMA COUNTY RED - (U.S.)
Warm, ripe, intense, thick, sweet, and toasty. Peel extracts. Also
blueberry, cedar, tobacco. The ‘99 had more black fruit flair and
more oak finesse./ Bright, ruddy Sonoma cabernet fruit and spicy
oak. Nice enough, but not up to the 1999. This is warmer, stronger,
more Sonoma- and less claret-like. Time will earn it more finesse
though. 16.3+. wt021605-17. 2003
CARMEN MAIPO VALLEY SHIRAZ - (CHILE) Green
for 2003. While simultaneously dense and ripe. The syrah clone that
ripens its berries before its stems? No syrah character at all.
Plain. Young vines?/ Same. Just a plain, anonymous red wine. Both
ripe and green messages. Tart and astringent too. 13.8. wt021605-18. 2002
STEP ROAD LANGHORNE CREEK SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
Sweet and ripe, and stridently hot and oaky. Mint extract aroma
that, paradoxically, is not at all cooling/ Very oaky. Sawdust.
Chips? Sweet fruit. Too alcoholic. Burnt. Over the top. Too much.
This got a Parker 90? 14.3.
Wednesday, February 9, 2005 wt020905-01. 2003
DR. KONSTANTIN FRANK FINGER LAKES DRY RIESLING
- (U.S.) Lovely lime-tangerine riesling fragrance, brisk, cool,
and zesty. Also softer aromas of ripe pear and apple, and flowers./
Again, the citrus is prominent, especially lime, reminding me of
an Australian riesling but with less alcohol and petrol. Sort of
a cross between and German and an Aussie riesling. Delicious, classy,
spicy. Rich and mannered, with a bright piquance. A little softer
than a German riesling. Dry but not austere: high trocken, say,
.7 r.s. 16.0.. wt020905-02. 2004
SANTA JULIA MENDOZA VIOGNIER - (ARGENTINA)
Elegant, smooth, subtle melon and cold cream aroma./ Rather subtle
flavorwise too. Not as exuberant and pushy as the ‘04 Yalumba we
tasted last week. Cooler climate? With aeration come floral, citrus,
and other tropical fruit notes. A bit strong, but otherwise well
balanced. The proper viognier yin-yang of glycerol and astringency.
Well fashioned. 15.7. wt020905-03. 2004
FOREFATHERS MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (NEW ZEALAND) Pungent citrus peel and hard-water mineral aroma./
Confused palate. It seems to have glossy, candied citrus peel sweetness
but is also very tart, especially on the aftertaste. High pH? Adjusted
acidity? Not refreshing, and not cheap. 14.2. wt020905-04. 2004
WILDHURST RESERVE LAKE CTY SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (U.S.) Very crisp and grassy. Incisive grapefruit aroma. Young
and fresh–right out of the box./ Full, sweetish, mild. Youthfully
plump. Hopefully it will dry up and deepen by summer. I suspect
it will. With airing, it already begins to show more gooseberry
piquancy. 15.3+. wt020905-05. 2003
EBERLE PASO ROBLES CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Heavy, hefty, smoky, well-toasted oak. Buttered popcorn, roasted
fruit, and old-time California chardonnay cow piss aromas./ Oak
vanillin, glycerol, and spices. Lemon creme fruit. Hot and spiritous.
Is Paso Robles East too warm for chardonnay? Or was this one left
too long in the barrel? Seems well advanced for such a young wine.
14.6. wt020905-06. 2003
STUHLMULLER ESTATE ALEXANDER VALLEY CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Lighter touch with the oak here. The warm, robust Alexander
Valley interpretation of chardonnay fruit comes across clearly.
Wine of place./ Sweet, ripe Alexander fruit and malolactic creaminess.
Unfortunately, the oak is more strident on the palate, the oak tannin
aggressive. 15.1. wt020905-07. 2003
CHIANTI, STRACCALI - (ITALY) Sweet and
full of peel extract. Mulberry, plum and peel. Well pressed. Generous
and genuine sangiovese notes of licorice, dried cherry, and citrus
peel./ Peel raciness, pulp sweetness. Good sangiovese glycerol too.
Clearly the ripest and best Straccali ever. 15.2. wt020905-08. 2003
CHIANTI COLLI SENESI, FARNETA - (ITALY)
Sweet and bright and juicy. Multiple forms of cherry: fresh, dried,
candied, maraschino. Sweetness and intensity of ‘03./ Yes the sweetness,
the fullness, the presence of ripe ‘03 fruit. Perfectly ripe and
not a bit overripe. Most alluring and generous. 15.8. wt020905-09. 2002
CHIANTI COLLI SENESI COLOMBAIA TITOLATO, FALCHINI - (ITALY) Sweet and polished approach. Round and stylish,
and showing some depth and breed. Elegant fruit statement. No ‘02
greenness, thinness. Well crafted./ Elegant again, and smoothed
by a light coating of glycerol. But the more it sits on the palate,
the more the vintage’s tartness and astringency are betrayed. However,
there’s not greenness, and that’s an accomplishment. Food would
help. 14.9. wt020905-10. 2001
RIOJA CRIANZA CONDE DE VALDEMAR, BODEGAS BUJANDA - (SPAIN) Sweet ripe fruit, lightly woody veneer. Coconut
highlight of toasted American oak./ Good structure. Good oak-fruit
balance. Good acidity, tannin. From this great vintage, the best
Valdemar crianza yet. 15.0. wt020905-11. 2003
VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET, HENRI BRUNIER -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! Just bursting with fresh strawberry
and peppercorn aromas. The fruit is sweet, juicy, and ripe but not
a bit overripe. This is what 2003 is all about!/ Sweet and spicy
fruit; strawberries and seeds, and white pepper zestiness. Racy,
penetrating, plenty of impact. Great power and material. Chewy constitution.
Well balanced, well measured, well crafted. Great future. What a
difference a vintage makes! Miles ahead of that 2002 slug. 16.2. wt020905-12. 2003
BRANCOTT MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR - (NEW
ZEALAND) Sweet, jammy pinot noir. Strawberry jam. Pleasant./ Yes,
light and lively, jammy pinot flavor. Bright, penetrating, floral,
varietal, demonstrative. Easy. Simple pleasures. Good value. 15.7. wt020905-13. 2003
BARNWOOD SANTA BARBARA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Spicy oak and warm, North-Coast fruit styling (Mendocino,
Sonoma). Cassis and ripe black raspberry. Just as impressive as
the 2001 sampled last May at the Tasters Guild cabernet revue./
Spicy and vigorous fruit and oak. Mocha and chocolate. Good fruit
sweetness and fruit tannin. Good fruit-oak harmony. Giving. A pleasant
value and an impressive achievement for a cabernet from pinot noir
country. 16.3. wt020905-14. 2001
THREE RIVERS COLUMBIA VALLEY RED - (U.S.)
(40% syrah, 31% cabernet sauvignon, 29% cabernet franc) - Sweet,
full, dark, ripe, handsome red and black fruits. Ample and rich
but not overripe; there’s a northern coolness and liveliness to
it. Superimposed oak spices./ Strong, sweet, easy, generous red
wine. Varietal identities are rather blurred, so, flavorwise, there’s
some anonymity as in many a California syrah. Nonetheless, it’s
a good, balanced, meaty mouthful of red wine. 15.8. wt020905-15. 2001
BERINGER CLEAR LAKE ZINFANDEL - (U.S.)
Mendocino style of zinfandel fruit: ripe, warm, and sweet, yet dark
and deep and solid. Very pure and spicy fruit. Low-key oak, which
is unusual for Beringer./ Lightly toasted, spicy oak seasonings
to complex a strong, original varietal statement. Inviting now.
Validates Beringer’s strong zinfandel showing at Tasters Guild (California,
Cellar #8). 16.0. wt020905-16. 2002
EBERLE STEINBECK VINEYARD PASO ROBLES ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) The back label mentions blueberries, and, sure enough,
there they are! Gobs of fruit. Bright and cool and inviting. Woody
nuances: cedar and spices. Very cool for Paso Robles zin./ Sweet
but cool blueberry jam flavor. Good acidity. Then comes the thick,
fruit syrup-like Paso Robles East face of zinfandel. Sweet-shop
zinfandel. Wine of place. And good. 16.0. wt020905-17. 2003
LAUREL GLEN !ZA ZIN OLD VINES LODI ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Sweet and spicy Lodi zin presentation, definitely on the
cusp between Coastal and Valley. Cool blueberry and warm mocha,
coffee, bitter chocolate./ Strong and sweet and direct. Structured
and somewhat tannic. A valid Lodi interpretation. Reminds me of
the Ravenswood. 15.6. wt020905-18. 2001
EBERLE PASO ROBLES SYRAH - (U.S.) Hard
and strong. Smoky, gamey. Cooked meat aromas./ Yes, beef roast.
Thick with glycerol. Very oaky. Chewy. So hot and powerful it burns.
Too big for its own good. For the heartiest of fare. 14.8
Wednesday, February 2, 2005 wt020205-01. 2003
FENN VALLEY LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE DRY RIESLING
- (U.S.) Dry and lightly fragrant nose. High-strung, racy. Suggestions
of peach, apple, melon, honey. Identifies itself as riesling but
doesn’t shout it. So it won’t dominate at the dinner table./ Dry
but not austere. Soft: sec tendre. Again the aromatics are not forceful.
Well balanced wine, nice, and ready for the table. 15.6. wt020205-02. 2003
SARDEGNA VERMENTINO, ARAGOSTA - (ITALY)
The scent is vermentino: lightly nutty, dusty floral, appley. Relates
to pinot grigio in that it’s plumper and has more personality than,
say, pinot bianco. Stony, mineral character too. Light touch of
citrus zest. Good and clean. Not really intense, but adequately
aromatic./ Soft, with good vermentino fullness and ‘03 ripeness.
Again, only lightly fragrant. Not pushy. Bright, piquant finish.
Good enough. 14.9. wt020205-03. 2003
ALTO ADIGE PINOT GRIGIO, ZEMMER - (ITALY)
Exceptionally rich and creamy in the ‘03 way. Almost a pinot grigio
custard. Lush, effusive, amiable./ Soft and mellow ‘03 mode. Flavorful.
These ‘03 Italian whites are not lacking for intensity. Reasonably
well balanced. Too plump to call refreshing, but certainly not cloying.
15.5. wt020205-04. 2004
BRANCOTT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(NEW ZEALAND) Yow! Total tactile and aromatic assault on the nostrils
and olfactory! Ripe gooseberry, pink grapefruit, lemon-lime, spring
grass, and the cat. That NZ perfection of cut and plumpness rolled
into one package. Near perfect interpretation./ Racy, pungent, penetrating,
eye-popping. Delicious interplay of sweet and tart. Of both plump
and chiseled fruit expressions. At once soothing and tangy. Fine
value. I want it...now! 16.2. wt020205-05. 2004
BLACKSTONE MONTEREY SAUVIGNON BLANC -
(U.S.) Yellow fruits, Monterey bell pepper, fresh-cut grass, and
a flinty highlight. Much milder, softer, quieter./ Again, the Monterey
vegetal character. Starts tart, but finishes rather mawkish, pallid,
unfocused. Maybe it needs a few more months for resolution. 14.7. wt020205-06. 2003
SANCERRE LE CHATEAU DU NOZAY, PASCAL JOLIVET
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Fully ripe. The richest Nozay ever. Smoky, tangy,
flinty Sancerre sauvignon set, with intricate citrus and gooseberry–and
even peach--complications. The ripeness doesn’t obliterate a sense
of terroir./ Relatively mild acidity leaves a sweetish impression,
though there’s no perceptible residual sugar. Tremendous presence
in the mouth. Big, deep fruit structure. Still plump with baby fat.
Solid mineral substratum. Should prove sleeker and more sophisticated
with a few months’ aging. 16.5+. wt020205-07. 2004
YALUMBA Y SERIES SOUTH AUSTRALIA VIOGNIER
- (AUSTRALIA) Sweet dessert spices, flowers, pear, and tropical
fruits. Aussie warmth. Varietal race, vigor, beauty./ Both rich
and racy. Glycerol and astringency. Aromatically and texturally,
a fine Aussie viognier statement; in fact, textbook. Lots of adventure,
excitement here. An entertainer. 16.0. wt020205-08. 2002
CHABLIS CHAMPS ROYAUX, WILLIAM FEVRE -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Deep, swelling, voluminous nose full of cool,
compact, ripe Chablis chardonnay and flinty Chablis terroir. Just
a kiss of oak to add aromatic intricacy without overwhelming its
sense of place. Great harmony, poise, presence, fullness./ Yes,
rich and intricate melange of fruit, terroir, and light oak seasoning,
all well integrated. Wonderful Chablis vintage. Textbook village
wine. 16.8. wt020205-09. 2003
MURFATLAR SPECIAL RESERVE LATE HARVEST ROMANIA PINOT NOIR - (ROMANIA) True, sweet-sided varietal fruit. Mild, mellow,
candied pinot. Tempered by peel astringency. Cherry candy and tea./
Sweet but not overly so. Good acidity. Good balance. Good varietal
character. Generous. Right to the point. Just what it’s intended
to be. There’s a market for red wines of this finish, and it extends
beyond Eastern Europe. 15.3. wt020205-10. 2002
ESTANCIA PINNACLES RANCHES MONTEREY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Toasty oak and sweet fruit ripeness of Estancia, herbaceousness
of Monterey. Wine of both proprietor and place./ Plenty of cherry-pie
and tea varietal flavor. Ease, polish, jammy warmth. Mild acidity
for Monterey, but, then, the Pinnacles area in inland and warmer
than the lower valley. A generous wine value. 15.6. wt020205-11. 2003
KENWOOD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) I like this better (but others did not). Cool and spicy
RRV style of pinot. Deep and variegated fruit statement. The oak
makes a fine seasoning./ Add tea and bitter chocolate to the aromatic
set. This has more depth than the Estancia. There are layers of
flavor and lots of textural play. Less up front, more in reserve.
And much better acidity. Impressive value. 16.2. wt020205-12. 2002
BOURGOGNE, FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Here’s Faiveley compactness, restraint, tradition. Light oak spiciness
and toastiness is well integrated to the fruit, which is a cherry,
tea, and licorice complex showing Chalonnaise hallmarks./ Sits well
on the palate. A balanced presentation, lively and vivid. Plenty
of material and grip in a firm-figured model. The complexity of
aromas echoes on the palate. Fine tannin. Great future. Does its
vintage proud. 16.2+. Others thought this suffered from the order,
making it seem thin after the riper, more robust California pinots.
You just have to pause to adjust your sights. wt020205-13. 2003
CEVENNES MERLOT, DOMAINE DE GOURNIER -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Cool and racy merlot for ‘03 and Languedoc.
Speaks for its Gard departement origins. Herb and olive merlot peel
tones. Deep and dark fruit secrets. Good material here./ The palate
shows more fruit sweetness than the nose suggests. More like 2003.
And it’s welcome. Balanced presentation. Complete Med merlot. 15.7. wt020205-14. 2003
TOSCANA SANGIOVESE SANTA CRISTINA, ANTINORI
- (ITALY) Ripe and open. Warm spices and cooked peels. Ruddy, spicy,
dried cherry sangiovese of a hot vintage./ Add earth, tar, and leather.
And Smith Bros. flavors: both licorice and cherry. Rugged, forceful,
hulking, tannic. Through it all, fresh acidity and good delineation
can be perceived. Give it time to settle down. 15.7+. wt020205-15. 2001
SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA, LEONE DE CASTRIS
- (ITALY) Deep, full, ruddy dried-fruit and animal warmth and power
of the south. Riserva scale and ambitions. Big and tough, with sweet
rancio concentration of a recioto/ Dried fruit, anise, and time
in seasoned cooperage. Good acidity, grip, tannin. Needs time. A
waste to serve now, unless extended aeration would loosen its grip.
16.0+. wt020205-16. 2000
SQUINZANO, CANTINA DUE PALME - (ITALY)
Wholesome fruit, sweet and mellow maturity, warmth of the south.
Hints of raspberry eau-de-vie and black olive./ Very glycerined,
smooth, mellow, mild, easy. Plenty of warmth and savor. Nice and
smooooth. Accommodating at the table and a good choice with a cigar.
15.5. wt020205-17. 2002
LEASINGHAM MAGNUS CLARE VALLEY SHIRAZ-CABERNET
- (AUSTRALIA) Deep purple color./ Deep, dark fruit and spicy oak.
Daunting power and wood; a bit aggressive even. But milder and less
dominant than in the 2001. Vintage helps./ A dark, daunting one.
Sweet and powerful. Magnus indeed. There’s that cool, minty, ventilating
2002 side too though. This has a lot to offer for the price. Popularity
assured. 15.8. wt020205-18. 2002
RED DUST SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
A pleasant surprise. None of the frequent SEA-appellation jugginess.
Dark berries and cassis. Surprising fruit intensity. Good spicy
oak–not overdone./ Sweet and spicy and warm. Some bouillon animal
flavor. Medium bodied and well balanced. Good value. 15.2.
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