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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- February, 2004 |
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Wednesday, February 25, 2004 wt022504-01. 2001
GOLDWATER ROSELAND MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY
- (NEW ZEALAND) Dry and steely. Lots of minerals and touches of
lemon and pear and oak. Made for refreshment and not for show./
Burnished mature elements. Clean, crisp, and refreshing, with lively
fruit piquance and soft oaky nuance. A decent chardonnay value at
the clearance price (normal price: $20). 14.8. wt022504-02. 2002
BOURGOGNE ST VINCENT BLANC, V GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh and very full for Bourgogne. Dusting of
oak. Rich, concentrated fruit. Creamy, minerally, lush, and juicy./
Oh, boy! Super rich and powerful at this level. Thorough. Long.
Plus charming, refreshing, stylish. You can have it all this vintage.
Great intro to 2002 white burgundy. 16.6. wt022504-03. 2002
BOURGOGNE BLANC, B MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
More oak here, and it’s still on top. Lots of fat fruit and mineral
vigor smoldering beneath./ More oak, acidity, oak tannin than Girardin’s.
Oak and minerals have an impact-wrench effect on the palate. Very
rich and full. Chewy. Challenging. Will benefit from a year or two’s
aging. 16.5+. wt022504-04. 2002
GIVRY CLOS DE LA BRULEE 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Rich and fine vanilla-caramel oak, smoky and
toasty. Fat, sassy, flamboyant. Sandalwood airs, iron underpinnings.
Loaded for a Givry. Very full indeed./ Full, stylish oak with good
char. Rich fruit. Brisk and sleek citrus and minerals. Powerful.
Potent and plentiful. 16.9+. wt022504-05. 2002
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Mellower style of oak. Sweet and burnished smooth. High-toned
perfumes of calcaire, flowers, tangerine./ Sweet and full. Lots
of structure formed by fruit and oak extracts. Lush, creamy, enticing
finish. 16.8+. wt022504-06. 2002
RULLY LES CLOUX 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Richer, fuller, broader. Really BIG. Airs of lemon
grass, hierba luisa, flowers./ Wow! A complex, creamy range of herbs
and spices and aromatic barks. Hefty and lush fruit and toasty oak.
Plush texture, fine depth. More powerful than usual. More intense.
17.2+. wt022504-07. 2002
RULLY MONT PALAIS 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Rich and well-integrated oak. Great composure,
ease, confidence. Plump, melony fruit cut with tangible minerality./
Great, juicy fruit acidity. Vanilla and lemon cremes. All elements
fine-toned and well integrated. Very fine textured. Inviting now.
17.2. wt022504-08. 2002
RULLY GRESIGNY 1ER CRU, J-M BOILLOT -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Good, dark, charry oak as always here. Nuts and
grains like Meursault. The biggest and boldest of Boillot’s Chalonnaise
set as usual./ Sweet, dense, thick, smooth, big. Caramel apple impressions.
Noble bearing and great depth. Aromatically, still a little quiet,
but for its composure it’s good to take to the table even now. 17.3+. wt022504-09. 2002
RULLY LA PUCELLE 1ER CRU, V GIRARDIN -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lovely oak and VG fruit richness. Very rich indeed.
Huge, plentiful, alluring. Girardin speaking./ Great oak and seductive
VG style of fruit presentation. Big, authoritative, chewy. Lush
and loaded. Hard to resist. 17.2. wt022504-10. 2002
SANTENAY CLOS COMBE DESSUS, V GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Smoky and ambitious. Tight oak and fruit. Big
and bold Cote de Beaune style. Still understated yet well poised
beauties. Airing coaxes forth peach, pear, and loquat./ Big and
lemony. Very thick, buttercream fruit and big, creamy oak. Great
core of firm, focused, forceful fruit potential. 17.3+. wt022504-11. 2002
ST AUBIN EN REMILLY 1ER CRU, V GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Smoky and sizeable. Exotic airs of wildflowers
and tropics. Runs deep too./ Very thick, dense, concentrated. Great,
juicy fruit acidity and vigor and extract. Full structure with deep
footings. Huge! 17.5+. wt022504-12. 2002
ST AUBIN LES MURGERS DE DENTS DE CHIENS 1ER CRU, V GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Quiet, backward, secretive. Reserve
and authority. Still water runs deep. Aeration brings out flowers,
minerals, orange, fines herbes./ Good volume, power, grip, material.
Grainy. Aromatics still terse, unformed. The most backward, potent
vintage of Girardin’s Dents de Chiens I’ve tasted. 17.5++. wt022504-13. 2000
TOSCANA SANGIOVESE SASSAIA DI ALBERETO, S FARINA - (ITALY) Dense, burly, sturdy. Warm, developed, savory.
Animal tones (leather, bacon), rich, dried fruits, soft, roasted
herbs. Plum, black cherry, chocolate./ Full, ripe, and savory. Rich
and warm pain grille, herbs, and licorice. Well balanced. 16.2. wt022504-14. 2000
PARDUCCI CALIFORNIA PETITE SIRAH - (U.S.)
Stinky old Valley wine. Vestige of mercaptans. Stewed fruit, medicine,
cosmetics, Kool-Aid. Yams and candied carrots./ Sweet and sassy.
Oak fest. Chocolate. Palate not as off-putting as nose. But sharp
on the aftertaste. Strangely enough, some though this a good example.
11.0.
Wednesday, February 11, 2004 wt012804-01. 2000
DEBROI HARSLEVELU, MARIKA - (HUNGARY)
The ‘lime leaf’ grape. Linden-blossom aroma, delicate and attractive.
Good degree of freshness yet. Light tenderness./ Mild in both sweetness
and acidity. Flavor confirms aroma. Pleasant. 15.2. wt012804-02. 2000
BADASCONI SZURKEBARAT, MARIKA - (HUNGARY)
Good pinot gris character: hazelnut, apple, honey. Plump, delicate
yellow fruits. Melon, peach, custard. Light glycerin, softness,
tenderness./ Nowhere near a thick and powerful as a fine Alsace
pinot gris, but genuine all the same. Nice and elegant. The price
is reasonable and the wine is still plenty vital. 15.8. wt012804-03. 2002
OC CHARDONNAY, WILD PIG - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Corked. No rating. wt012804-04. 2002
RIESLING RANGEN GRAND CRU, MARTIN SCHAETZEL
- (FRANCE ALSACE) More glycerin padding than the 2001. That tends
to coat the awesome level of dry extract. It’s as high as the 2001
but buffered at this stage. Smoky, powerful; exotic yellow and tropical
fruit range.. Big, but graceful, cool, vibrant, zesty. This is incredible!/
The power and glory, the daunting assembly of ripeness, alcohol,
glycerin, and extract that only Alsace’s southernmost Grand Cru
can offer. Riesling like none other. Impressive depth and length.
And just a babe still. 18.0+. wt012804-05. 2002
GEWURZTRAMINER RESERVE, MARTIN SCHAETZEL
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Quite the aromatic range of gewurz. Rosewater
and glycerin for sure. And the nostril-nipping zest of ginger. And
dried, candied orange peel. Terroir too: granitic. Dense and expressive./
And great textural range too. The plump, glycerined fatness of the
varietal cut by alcohol and innate astringency at the finale. A
textbook gewurz range of aromatics and textures. And still very
youthful. All is coy yet; just suggestions of each stimulus. After
a few months have passed, these will become almost overwhelming.
17.0+. wt012804-06. 2002
COTES DU RHONE LES ARBOUSIERS ROSE, DOMAINE DE REMEJEANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) A lot of peel extract here;
a lot of substance, even tannin. Raw red fruit. Cherry, cranberry,
peppercorn. Crisp, aggressive scent of acidity. Actually a welcome
relief after a series of very ripe vintages, at least in the context
of rose./ Definitely peels and acid. Primal. Measured plumpness,
sweetness, and strength to balance. Digestif. You deserve a break
today... 15.7. wt012804-07. 2000
SZEKSZARDI MERLOT, MARIKA - (HUNGARY)
Dark, dried fruit character. Hefty, hearty, and generous. Cherry,
tobacco, leather. Italianate. Style and richness of the varietal
in warm clothing./ Rather sweet, with dried fruit and citron impressions
like fruit cake. Pleasant, if hardly claret-like. 15.2. wt012804-08. 2000
SZEKSZARDI CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARIKA
- (HUNGARY) More structure and extract. Darker nature. More cabernet.
Again, it’s the form that suggests the varietal rather than the
traditional aromatic set./ Also dark and rather roasted like a southern
Italian rendition. Curious in that regard. And appealing enough
at the price. 15.6. wt012804-09. 2002
NEMES KADARKA, MARIKA - (HUNGARY) A lighter-styled
Hungarian red, true to form here./ Plenty fresh. A sort of passetoutgrains
character: a combination of freshness and darker, deeper, latent
character. 14.0+. wt012804-10. 2001
BOURGOGNE COTE D’AUXERRE CORPS DU GARDE, JEAN-HUGUES GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) A thrilling surprise, given the weak
reputation of 2001 in nearby Chablis (though we were pleased with
each ‘01 Chablis in our carefully-chosen repertoire). Perfectly
ripe and racy Burgundian pinot. Lovely cherry and tea aroma set.
Plump pinot richness and nice northern cut. Light and toasty oak
seasoning./ Again, the sense of ripe fruit in an allegedly deficient
vintage in the area. And racy fruit acidity. All in harmony. Just
lovely pinot aroma and flavor definition and intensity. 16.8. wt012804-11. 2001
COTES DU VENTOUX, DOMAINE FONT SANE -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Garrigue runs rampant here. Full display
of red berries, multi-colored peppercorns, and Provencal flowers
and herbs. Palpable aroma, it’s so intense./ Berries and garrigue
again. 2001 race plus lots of ripe fruit substance. Acid, tannin,
and extract in profusion and balance. All in harmony and in non-aggressive
styles. Widely praised: one of the hits of the tasting. 16.4. wt012804-12. 2002
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, DOMAINE STE ANNE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Here’s 2002 speaking. Raw, wild-fruit character.
Red currant and rhubarb, brush, briar. Not thin, not hollow, not
green like 2002's losers. Different from the last four, ripe vintages;
different from 1997 too, and certainly less mild. And none of the
rot of 1996./ Very crisp and crunchy like red currants. Lively,
forward. Mouthwatering fruit acidity and plenty of peel extract.
Fine at the table. 15.7. wt012804-13. 2001
GIGONDAS, DOMAINE FONT SANE - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) A worthy successor to the 2000. Clearly younger and
less filled-out. And it will likely always be less ripe and more
racy. That’s the vintage style. Generous warmth, power, depth. Black
pepper, garrigue, cherry, olive, aromatic woods and barks. Fine
roasted character of Gigondas./ Extract, acidity, purity, and personality
to complement the power. Model for vintage, appellation, and estate.
17.0+. wt012804-14. 2001
GIGONDAS FUTEE, DOMAINE FONT SANE - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Creamy oak, cedar, caramel. Compact black fruits.
Black pepper./ Rich and dense, tough and tannic. Big structure,
fine depth. Warm, spicy, powerful. 17.2++. wt012804-15. 2001
COTES DU RHONE LES EGLANTIERS SYRAH, DOMAINE DE REMEJEANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Total syrah. Black raspberry,
white pepper, bacon, and lavender. Awesome concentration–very dense
in all the elements. Fine oak seasoning–byzantine./ Complex flavor
range: panettone, spices, flowers, fennel, blackberries, coffee,
flourless chocolate cake. Rich, dense, full, concentrated Gard syrah
character...plus! Best Eglantiers yet. 17.8+. wt012804-16. 2002
OC SHIRAZ, WILD PIG - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Valley-like jamminess plus that paradoxical greenness amidst all
the ripeness that comes from the new and popular syrah clone’s tendency
to ripen grape well ahead of stem./ Again, the raisin and the green
stem. Like too many other Oc shirazes. 13.8. wt012804-17. ACETO
BALSAMICO DI MODENA 6 YEAR, FATTORIA ESTENSE liter - (POTPOURRI) Acetic, appley, woody nose./ Quite sharp,
but with impressive intensity of flavor and texture. Good value
in liter. 16.5. wt012804-18. ACETO
BALSAMICO DI MODENA 10 YEAR, FATTORIA ESTENSE quarter liter - (POTPOURRI) Much suaver, more complex, more concentrated./
Silk texture and fine balance. Prune and caramelized sugar aspects.
Really impressive intensity. A little goes a long way. 18.5. wt012804-19. ACETO
BALSAMICO DI MODENA 12 YEAR, FATTORIA ESTENSE quarter liter - (POTPOURRI) Thickness of molasses. This is really reduced
to an essence by evaporation in barrels./ Penetrating, thick, concentrated,
smooth, sweet. Spiced apples and prunes. Totally assuaged acidity.
Very special. Not a garnish. Deserves the limelight. 19.5.
Wednesday, February 4, 2004 wt020404-01. 2002
SANCERRE, ETIENNE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE)
Bright, plump, fresh, assertive, ripe, intense. Both lushness and
cut–you get it both ways in 2002. Gooseberry, grapefruit, pepper,
calcaire./ Outstanding. Ripe, lively, vibrant, supple. Great acidity
and minerality. Has it all. Best-ever vintage of this Daulny cuvee.
17.2. wt020404-02. 2000
OC MERLOT, DOMAINE LA VILLA TADE - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Earthy, smoky, leathery. Subdued dark fruits. Generous;
plenty of fruit./ Plump, solid black cherry with olive note. Varietal
charm, varietal character. Brash and primary. Light tannin. 15.7. wt020404-03. 2000
CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY LES VEROILLES, BRUNO CLAIR
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Plum, tea, and floral perfumes of Chambolle.
Hints of strawberry, red currant, and dark chocolate./ Solidly built
and tight still in the Clair style. Very fine, melted tannins. Racy
Chambolle pinot styling. Great beauty. Well poised. 17.2+. wt020404-04. 2000
VOUGEOT LES CRAS 1ER CRU, DOMAINE MONGEARD-MUGNERET - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Hefty, smoky black fruits. Traditional
Mongeard styling. Black cherry, brown spices (especially clove),
licorice. Beautiful fruit. More advanced than the Clair./ Solid,
ripe, smoky, assertive. Juicy black-cherry pinot. Beginning to open
out: lush, ripe, and elegant. Fine depth, real class. And packs
a punch. Lots to offer here, with more to come. 17.6.. wt020404-05. 2000
LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA TEMPRANILLO DRAGON, BODEGAS BERBERANA - (SPAIN) Oak, caramel, plump fruit and vinosity. Pungent./
Bright, racy red fruits and caramel-vanilla oak flavors. Fruit and
oak well integrated. Lots of charm and appeal. Nice value. 15.9. wt020404-06. 2001
RIOJA VINA ALARDI, BODEGAS BERBERANA -
(SPAIN) Taut, nervy red and black fruits. Well-knit. ‘01 power and
class. Tobacco highlight./ Firm oak in harmony with red and black
fruits. Race and vigor of ‘01 Rioja. Well stated, well balanced.
More to come. 16.3+. wt020404-07. 1997
RIOJA RISERVA VINA ALARDI, BODEGAS BERBERANA
- (SPAIN) Assertive, spicy, oaky, nicely-developed black-fruit bouquet.
Meats, dried herbs, earth, oak./ Hefty oak countered by generous
red and black fruit deployment. Fine balance, fine depth. Handsome,
regal, classic Rioja riserva. 16.6. wt020404-08. 2003
MOSCATO D’ASTI, BRICCO RIELLA - (ITALY)
Frothy./ Apple, lemon, orange, and blueberry perfumes. Plus papaya.
Mineral-dusted. Exotic, alluring./ Add licorice nip. Sweet, lush,
nice and generous. 16.0. wt020404-09. 2003
MOSCATO D’ASTI LA SERRA, DI GRESY - (ITALY)
Frothy./ Rich, penetrating, fresh aromas of apple and floral perfumes.
Showy./ Bright, tangy, penetrating, refreshing. Good depth and pastry-creme
richness. Good, fresh fruit acidity. Well appointed. 16.3.
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