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- December, 2009
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Wednesday, December 30, 2009 WT123009-01. PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE, DE FAVERI - (SPARKLING) Fine apple prosecco character. Yellow delicious.. Ripe pear too. Candied fruits. Very elegant, composed, charming. Nicely moussed up./ Smooth and rich. Fine mousse. Some said it was on the sweet side. That didn’t register with me. This is not a ‘extra dry’ prosecco, though it may be on the high side of brut. It’s the ingratiating softness that gives that impression.
Good price-quality relationship. 16.3. WT123009-02. 08 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC, DOMAINE LA FONT DU LOUP - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 40% grenache blanc, 30% roussanne, 20% clairette, 10% bourboulenc. Fresh. Large. Classy, Engaging. Quince, melon, stone fruits, minerals, stones. Hint of acacia./ Very clean on the palate. Well composed, balanced. Good acidity in 08–good year for the whites. A resourceful wine that could be put to many uses, even enjoyed on its own. As good
a white CdP as you could want. 16.5. WT123009-03. 07 CHABLIS, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) This has the combo of richness and race found in several earlier released 07 village Chablis wines. And the lift. Apple and quince. Lemon and biscuit (from lees, not oak). Delicate flower and spice nuances./ Oh, and calcaire! The 07 combo of smoothness and tart foil. And large presence! Large indeed for a villages wine. Not just alcohol, also material. Lots of textural
play. Long-lasting finish. Impressive. 17.2. WT123009-04. 07 CHABLIS VIEILLES VIGNES, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Well, this is bigger still as always,. And logically. It’s more backward too. Apple, peach, and ripe orange notes. The traditional grip, material, and power of this cuvee./ Yes, old vines volume, depth, richness, largesse. Deeply etched, vigorous, energetic, assertive. Really fills the mouth. Rich and right for keeping. 17.6+. WT123009-05. 07 CHABLIS DESSUS LA CARRIERE, GILBERT PICQ - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Complex, floral, lovely, lifting. Honeysuckle, and a hint of butterscotch./ The combo of northern chardonnay grown in calcaire gives a blanc de blancs Champagne impression. Delicious balance. Floral notes echo on the finish. A charmer. 17.0+. WT123009-06. 05 CHATEAU FONTENILLE, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 60% merlot, 25% cabernet franc, 15% cabernet sauvignon. On gravel over clay on a high ridge in central Entre Deux Mers. Gold Medal - Paris. Fine, fresh Right Bank-oriented aromatic set. Pretty, approachable, savory, burnished fruits. Tart berries, plum, violets, tobacco. Cooly stated. With 05 grace, charm./ Yes, charm and flair here. And merlot lushness. 05 elegance,
proportions. Well balanced. Well animated. Still a little tannin to shed. 16.3+. WT123009-07. 05 CHATEAU SAINTE BARBE, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 70% merlot, 30% the cabernets. Near the tip of Entre Deux Mers. Aged 9-12 months in barrels, 30% new. Large, sweet fruit and oak. Dark, deep black fruits. Oak toast, vanilla, treacle./ Flavors repeat the themes. The oak influence is full, intense, and of fine quality. The fruit is grand-scaled and velvet textured. It keeps erupting forth through the explosive finish.
The fruit-oak marriage is ideal. International leanings to a true claret persona. Expensive for the appellation, but a bargain for the quality. 17.0+. WT123009-08. 06 CHATEAU LACOMBE NOAILLAC CRU BOURGEOIS, MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 47% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 5% cabernet franc, 3% petit verdot. Aged in barrels, 15% new. Good quality oak influences. And the fruit is sweet, ripe, and dark for 06. Floral accents. Fine Medoc nose./ Again, the oak adds flattering complexity. Plenty of fruit volume. Well structured. Some grip and astringency that will pass. This is a very
good value. 16.3+. WT123009-09. 06 CHATEAU LIVERSAN CRU BOURGEOIS SUPERIEUR, HAUT MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Half each cabernet sauvignon, merlot. Aged in Alliers barrels, 25-30% new. Soft, sweet oak aromas complement ripe red and black fruits. Plum and blackberry. This has finesse and ease. A comfortable air about it. More like an 05 than an 06. Well crafted./ Again, the feel of both fruit and oak is soft and sweet, both cabernet and merlot showing
flavor and texture identities. The balance of varieties and of fruit and oak is exemplary. Inviting, almost sassy. Especially for 06 claret. Most accomplished. 16.7+. WT123009-10. 06 CHATEAU LABAT, HAUT MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Half each cabernet sauvignon, merlot. The western extension of Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme. Fine oak and fruit in tandem, both showing great finesse. The oak is sweet and spicy, the fruit-oak aromatic set complex./ Great, plummy fruit flavors. Well extracted. Plenty of stuffing. Grip, chewiness of peels extracts and fine-grained tannins. Well balanced. Long finish. Another
successful Left Bank 06. Will gain more from aging than the other two. 16.8+. WT123009-11. 08 VENTOUX VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE FONT SANE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Grenache and syrah. An elegant balance of the varieties, combining the sweet fleshiness of grenache and firm structure of syrah. Grenache strawberry and syrah raspberry. This is not dark and mean like some of the 08 southern Rhones we’ve encountered./ The palate shows the darker, tighter 08 leanings. The wine is young and still has some grip to
lose. Plenty of garrigue here, always a mark of this cuvee, especially in the cooler vintages. Fresh, tangy, eager. Well balanced, with a crisp, neat finish. Another successful year here, and another commendable 08. 16.1+. WT123009-12. 07 GIGONDAS, DOMAINE FONT SANE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 72% grenache, 23% syrah, 5% mourvedre. Knock me out! Full throttle 07 richness. Sweet and full bodied. Powerful, ripe, deep, dark. Blackberry, vanilla, mocha, raisinettes. Exotic floral highlights. Impressive, presumptuous./ Wow! Is this large, powerful, and insistent Gigondas! Plenty of sweet fruit and garrigue feels and flavors. Mr. Big. Rich, ripe, exciting,
persistent. 17.2+. WT123009-13. 07 STEEL CREEK MONTEREY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) From the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey and the same source as the Montoyas. This comes right at ya with full fruit, oak, and power. If it weren’t for the sweet and abundant fruit of the 07 vintage, the oak would be a little much. The whole presentation is high-impact. The word ‘subtle’ has no application here./ Full vanilla-chocolate-caramel oak and equally full
blackberry-cassis cabernet fruit of 07. Packs a punch. This is loaded, and admirably priced. Steakhouse wine. 16.3. WT123009-14. 06 SULLIVAN RED INK NAPA VALLEY RED - (U.S.) 81% cabernet, 19% merlot. No syrah this year. Fresh, exuberant, lovely, and sweetly fruity. Blackberry, peppercorn, pitch. This is easy going, the most accessible vintage of young Red Ink I’ve tasted./ Yes, sweet and easy fruit complemented by soft oak. Performs a neat balancing act. No intrusive tannins. Good to go. Will be popular. 16.8. WT123009-15. 05 SULLIVAN NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) 05 firmness and tarry core. Plenty of sweet berry fruit emerging though. Dark berries, oak vanillin and brown spices. The 05s are beginning to plump up. The usual uplift of Sullivan’s reds./ Rich and right balance of fruit sweetness and fruit acidity. And everything else. Oak is merely a seasoning. 05 and Sullivan buoyancy. Charming and classy. 17.5+. WT123009-16. 05 MEYER FAMILY YORKVILLE HIGHLANDS SYRAH - (U.S.) The Justin Meyer family of Silver Oak fame. The largeness, darkness, and sweet, red wine display of California syrah complemented by attractive oak./ Yes, very attractive oak influences. Wonder if he’s still using American oak as at Silver Oak. It’s certainly well measured. Good wine. 16.2+. WT123009-17. 07 SANGIOVESE DI ROMAGNA CEREGIO, ZERBINA - (ITALY) Sweet and ripe 07 central Italy sangiovese with the extra lift and freshness–the inherent levity–of Romagna sangiovese./ Again, the sweet fruit display of 07. Plum, dried orange peel, and flowers. Just the right weight and style for Romagna sangiovese. A textbook example. A paragon of elegance. Balanced, long, lifted. And will earn additional complexity with another
1-2 years of bottle age. 16.6+. WT123009-18. 06 MAREMMA CABURNIO, TENUTA MONTETI - (ITALY) 50% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 20% alicante bouchet. This has cabernet darkness and grip. Some firm wood framing too. Forceful; plenty of fury./ A proper balance of oak and fruit. And wonderful 06 reserve, composure, measure. The cabernet influence that was overwhelming at first impression turns out not so dominant after all. Class wine. Dramatic wine. Curious cuvee,
especially the missing 5%. Maremma is such a fun zone for experimenters. 16.8+. WT123009-19. 06 MAREMMA MONTETI, TENUTA MONTETI - (ITALY) 60% petit verdot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 4% each alicante, merlot. Sweet black fruit of petit verdot. Rich oak vanillin./ Large, sweet, powerful. Well structured, congruent. Innately Italian for the acidity and structure, but clearly internationally oriented. Lovely, manly; has Fabio appeal. 16.8+. WT123009-20. 07 MADIRAN, CHATEAU BARREJAT - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Black, opaque tannat nature, but not mean. Rather, polished, with the facility of 07. Black cherry, dark plum, cigar box./ 07 levity. Pretty, youthful berriness. May flesh out with bottle age. 15.7+. WT123009-21. 03 RIOJA RESERVA ALBERDI, LA RIOJA ALTA - (SPAIN) Sweet, ripe, and rich in American oak influences, including vanilla and coconut./ Again, that large American oak presence. The fruit is ripe, and not excessively ripe like many 03s. This is a young wine with more age potential than most 03 Riojas. I think the oak will settle in given bottle age. 16.0++.
"Wednesday", December 21, 2009 WT122109-01. 08 PINOT BLANC BALTHAZAR, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE ALSACE) 100% pinot blanc. Fat and sassy. Cool peach, melon, sweet cream, and minerals. Clear headed, dry, and typical of pure pinot blanc./ Brusque and racy, with good acidity. This is a lesson in pinot blanc form and style. Rewarding. And well liked by the group. 16.1+. WT122109-02. 08 CHATEAU HAUT PASQUET, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 40% semillon, 40% sauvignon blanc, 20% muscadelle. Gee, could you want a more defining Bordeaux blanc encepagement? And it reads right. Great sauvignon gooseberry-grass exuberance on the nose with that muscadelle fresh herb assist. Fresh, crisp apple, pear, and citrus./ Semillon fullness chimes in. Sauvignon grapefruit, lemon piquance. Muscadelle
green flowers. It’s classic. Well liked by the group. 16.5. WT122109-03. 07 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, CANTINA TOLLO - (ITALY) Fresh, very dark fruit and licorice. Southern warmth, smokiness./ Bright and tangy. Black stone fruits, dab of pitch. Good texture, volume, chewy peels extract. 15.7+. WT122109-04. 06 TOSCANA LAGONE, AIA VECCHIA - (ITALY) Very dense black fruit plus hints of sweet oak and leather. Good richness, depth, and savor./ Seems cabernet like, in a Tuscan setting. Cabernet’s firm form. Sangiovese tang too. And oak extras. Nice depth. 15.8+. WT122109-05. 08 EMILIANA NATURA VALLE CENTRAL CARMENERE - (CHILE) Organic. Sweet carmenere all the way. Sweet blackberry, with smoke, tar, tobacco, and leather nuances. Sweet peppers, and chilis too./ Yes, sweet and smooth. Fresh, ripe fruit. It’s carmenere through and through. 15.5. WT122109-06. 08 MONTES SPECIAL CUVEE COLCHAGUA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Red currant and bell pepper cool year cabernet. Oak spices, but not as oak dominant as some Montes cab vintages./ The full oak sweet thing: vanilla, caramel, toast, toffee. The usual Montes style, though not as heavy handed as in the past, in regards to the oak. Some oak tannin present. Popularly crafted. 16.0. WT122109-07. 09 SANTA JULIA ORGANICA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Cool, soft berries with malic edge. Fruity, forward, very grapey. Spicy highlights. Fluid./ Yes, fluid, easy. Soda pop-like sweet fruit. 14.7. WT122109-08. 08 FAMILIA RUTINI TRUMPETER MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Rich, velvety fruit. Subtle, incense oriented oak. Dark and seductive./ Wood smoke and baker’s chocolate. Young, dark, and daunting. Not as plush and easy as the nose. Give it a few months. 15.5+. WT122109-09. 08 TAMARI RESERVA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) A beautiful oak-fruit marriage here, as there has been for years. Fine, spicy, elegant oak. Dense, deep and polished black fruits. Plum, tobacco, cedar. This is exciting./ Plump, smoky, well proportioned. Some oak astringency still. Some gaminess too. Tannic. Young. Not one of the instant-gratification 08s. Liked by the group. 16.2+. WT122109-10. 06 JUMILLA ALTOS, FINCA LUZON - (SPAIN) 50% mourvedre, 25% tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon. Full and spicy. Some cabernet influence shows in a sort of leathery aspect./ Deep, with solid, ripe fruits. Smoke, charred meat, more leather. Grilled herbs, oak toast and spices. Tannin, extract, grip. Room for growth. 16.3+. WT122109-11. 09 MOSCATO D’ASTI, BOSIO - (ITALY) As fine and accomplished as the 08. Peach-apricot emphasis./ Sweet and fragrant. Brisk, tingly, and lively. Apple and pear. Stone fruits and flowers. Fine. Early vintage brings early fulfillment. Good value in its genre. 16.7.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009 WT121609-01. 07 DUSTED VALLEY BOOM TOWN COLUMBIA VALLEY PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) Light touches of melon, peach, pear, and candle wax. Both round and lively. Fruity and vinous. User friendly./ Good Pac NW acidity. No glycerol. Medium weight and intensity. Flexible at the table. 15.2. WT121609-02. 05 PINOT BLANC LES PRINCES ABBES, DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER - (FRANCE ALSACE) Aromas of peach, nuts, flint. Fresher than the 04./ Yes, some bouquet development and a certain flintiness that is not alien to pinot blanc. No sign of auxerrois here. This is traditional. Versatile table wine. Well liked by the group as a value. 15.6. WT121609-03. 07 TOSCANA BORGOFORTE, VILLA PILLO - (ITALY) At Val d’Elsa. Lovely, soft aromas of oak and maraschino cherry. And anise. Christmas cookies. Runs deep./ Palate adds blackberry, adobe, and tobacco to the aromatic profile. Bright and tangy sangiovese presentation. Good dryness, grip, and acidity. Not one of your fruitier, easier 07s on the palate. Absolutely forthright, structured, ageworthy. 16.6+. WT121609-04. 07 CHIANTI CLASSICO, CARPINETO - (ITALY) 90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo. Young and still a little hermetic. Good oak. A concentrate of dried cherry, orange peel, and anise. Classic sangiovese./ Rich and smooth 07 fruit-forward style. Good grip, strength, and depth. Dark anise tones. Ripe tannin reserve. Balanced, young, potent. 16.8+. WT121609-05. 07 CHIANTI CLASSICO BERARDENGA, FATTORIA DI FELSINA - (ITALY) Black intensity of this southern Classico. Big, bold, powerful. Great exposition. Firm wood. Charred wood and sweet cherry./ Yes, that dark and solid and fully stuffed Felsina style. Full of both oak and fruit flavors and extracts. Blackberry, sweet cherry, cocoa, cigar box. 07 brightness, lushness. Good acidity. Fine tannin on the long finish. Ambitious.
Complete. Both Chiantis were well liked by the group. 16.9+. WT121609-06. 07 SICILIA ROSSO, COLOSI - (ITALY) Sweet and ripe. Stewed cherries. Cold cherry soup. Very bright 07 fruit. Uplifting. One of the best in the series./ Yes, fine cherry flavor too. Sweet, ripe, dried, and stewed cherries. Fine, fine fruit tannin. Long aftertaste. This is special. Best Colosi ever? 16.4. WT121609-07. 08 SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA, CUSUMANO - (ITALY) Oh, boy, is this fresh and cool and upbeat! Deep and spicy. Spiced plum. Sugar plum. Bakers chocolate./ That sweet and spicy plum sensation reverberates on the palate, followed by an eruption of cassis and spices. Fine tannin, acidity. Cool and classic high altitude nero d’avola. Textbook. Well liked by the group. 16.5+. WT121609-08. 07 LOTUS CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet and sassy. Candied cherry. Cherry soda. Speaks mild-climate merlot. Oak contributes warm spices./ Sweet and spicy cherry and oak flavors. Nicely burnished fruits. Some oak tannin deprives it of the smoothness the nose suggests. Food will assuage. 15.3. WT121609-09. 07 LOTUS CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Sweet and nutty warm-climate cabernet. No Valley confection. Nice, light oak application./ Good berry-currant cabernet fruit and understated oak, in balance. Sleek and sturdy. Less oak pushiness than on the merlot’s palate. Good value. 15.5. WT121609-10. 08 BODEGA DANTE ROBINO KU DE TA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Sweet and saucy cherry pie and oak toast. Bold./ The palate is more Euro oriented for its dryness, grip, and peels extract. Juicy too. Good mouthful of malbec. 08 scores again. 15.8. WT121609-11. 07 DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET TUPUNGATO VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ARGENTINA) Organically grown. Very bright. Real cabernet berry-currant, vanilla, chocolate, and nice toasty oak. Fine./ Well measured dark fruit and oak. Discreet, elegant. No 07 hardness. Fine texture and length. Confirms its French name. A treat. And can be cellared successfully. Well liked by the group. 16.4+. WT121609-12. 07 DOMAINE JEAN BOUSQUET TUPUNGATO VALLEY MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Organically grown. Again, elegant styling. Varietal difference is clear. This is dark plum and peel. Black cherry, dark chocolate, pitch./ Plenty of fruit, with well integrated oak. Very attractive. 16.4+. WT121609-13. 07 CAHORS, CLOS LA COUTALE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 80% malbec, 20% merlot. Oh, sweet fruit! Riper than expected. I’m thinking about 07 claret in comparison. Cahors is happy to be closer to the Atlantic-Mediterranean divide this vintage. Malbec black cherry, peels, and licorice. Nice touch of nutty oak./ Fine depth. Burnished and savory berry fruit with hint of cinnamon. Black cherry, plum, and pencil box. Lots o’
licorice. Stylish middleweight. Quite superior to the 06. Earns its Wine Spectator 90 - Top 100 rating. 16.0+. WT121609-14. 08 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DE LA TOURADE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) White pepper galore. Sweet enough fruit for 08. Racy, upbeat 08 southern Rhone style./ Good grip, body, form. Elegant. Sleek-textured. More white pepper. Some garrigue too. Great acidity. Fine tannin. Here’s another estate that knows what to do in 08. Yeah, it’s not as awesome as the 07. Will make a better mealtime companion though. And one glass
invites another. 16.4. WT121609-15. 04 DOW’S LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORTO - (FORTIFIED) Sweet, roasted, black fruited, and spicy. Singed elderberries and black plums. Licorice, pitch, vanilla, brandy./ Sweet, rich, plummy, very flavorful. Great acidity. Welcome power. Perfect balance. Ho, hum, just another winner in this series. 17.3.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009 WT120909-01. 09 GOULART LUJAN DE CUYO TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Well, will it be more like muscat or gewurz? Sweet aromas of flowers, peach-apricot, tropics. Elegant. This leans toward the muscat side of torrontes. Sweet viscosity on the nose./ Oh, but surprisingly dry and forceful rather than viscous. Pear, apple, quince. Fine composition, torrontes definition. Good varietal astringency. Not overly fragrant on the palate,
which (with the strength and dryness) renders it a versatile dinner wine. Liked by the group. 16.2. WT120909-02. 08 VAL DE LOIRE CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE TROIS FRERES - (FRANCE LOIRE) Soft and mild nose, without much punch. Good apple note of northern chardonnay./ More vigor on the palate. 08 vigor. Nicely etched acidity, good grip. No wood in view. Likely no malo either. Depth here. Good dinner chardonnay. 16.0. WT120909-03. 08 BEL LAGO LEELANAU PENINSULA AUXERROIS - (U.S.) Scented, rich, creamy, nutty, and ripe. Everything you could want in a fine Alsace auxerrois except the power. Aromas of apple and orange pulp, peel, and blossom./ Luscious texture with a fine burnish of acidity that balances the plumpness. Penetrating. Super yin-yang effect. All you could want in auxerrois on the palate too. Best vintage yet. 17.0. WT120909-04. 05 RIESLING EICHBERG GRAND CRU, PAUL ZINCK - (FRANCE ALSACE) Lovely edelfirne of development. Large, exotic, intriguing, high strung. Stellar. Statuesque Grand Cru./ Rich and smooth. Not so much glycerol as just pure alcohol that smooths it out. Great balance of strength, acid, glycerol. 05 form. A wine of distinction. Perfect now. Well liked by the group. 17.5. WT120909-05. 07 FIRESTEED OREGON PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Genuine Oregon pinot. Tart cherry and tea. Raspberry too. Best yet from here. Most fruit fulfillment./ Yes, this has the right Oregon pinot stuff. And a leather note comes on to add complexity. Good acidity, texture. 15.9. WT120909-06. 05 TORO O, TRO - (SPAIN) Rich and generous. Fresh 05 style fruit still. Firmness of vintage too. Really projects 05. Fine and still firm black and red fruits./ Yes, rich and thick Toro delivery. Heaps o’ wine for the money. 15.9. WT120909-07. 08 JUMILLA, FINCA LUZON - (SPAIN) Sweet and sassy. Ripe fruit, but not over ripe. Big, juicy plum and blackberry aromas. Good power. Southern mourvedre black and sweet fruit combo. Hint of oak spices./ Oh, boy, sweet berry pastille flavors. Sweet licorice too. Lovely flavor, really. And fine tannin. Juicy, balanced, long. Very popular with the group. 16.2. WT120909-08. 07 RIOJA, BODEGAS SIERRA CANTABRIA - (SPAIN) Oh, so polished, pure, and lovely a tempranillo statement. Like the 06 was. Subtle, sweet, spicy oak. In harmony with the fruit./ Oh, yes! Sweet, dense, ripe black fruit and a fine, persistent oak measure, acclimatized to the fruit. Juicy, racy, and refined too. Well formed, with a nicely defined mien. All around champion. Fruit creme, cinnamon, fruitcake, oak-nut
creme. Will earn bouquet savor over at least another two years. 16.7+. WT120909-09. 06 RIOJA TEMPRANILLO VINA ZACO, BODEGAS BILBAINAS - (SPAIN) Bright and oaky. Toast and wood. Sweet, ripe red and black fruits. Plentiful fruit-oak delivery./ Lots of American oak. The wine needs time to absorb it. Good acidity. Fine tannin, including some oak tannin. Well balanced from a textural standpoint. Earns its Wine Spectator 90 - Top 100 rating. The group was split between the two, this one thought
to be the traditional Rioja style, the former, the modern. 16.0+. WT120909-10. 06 RAYWOOD CENTRAL COAST MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet and easy. No merlot aromatic markers, but surely merlot ease. No Valley jellied fruit./ Not much flavor interest. Rather lean, and a bit tannic. Plain but passable. 14.2. WT120909-11. 05 GNARLY HEAD CALIFORNIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Big, robust, cakey fruit aromas. More like zin than merlot./ Sweet, roasted fruit and nutty-oaky accents. Reasonable depth and definition. Robust and reliable. Easy. 15.7. WT120909-12. 06 RAYWOOD CENTRAL COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) An honest warm-climate cabernet expression of sweet black currant./ Again, the sweet berry-currant character. Nice and easy. 15.0. WT120909-13. 07 ALTA VISTA PREMIUM MENDOZA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ARGENTINA) Oh, boy! This is sweet and concentrated, intense. Licorice and black fruit in large proportions. Boysenberry, blackberry, pencil box./ Yes! Licorice and spice flavors. Plenty of textural play and plenty of power. Good depth and polish, poise and elegance. Doesn’t exactly speak cabernet sauvignon, but certainly mirrors the house style of Alta Vista
malbec; each is a big and bold steakhouse wine. 16.5. WT120909-14. 06 ALFREDO ROCA CUVEE ROCA SAN RAFAEL MALBEC-MERLOT - (ARGENTINA) Oh, sweet cherry and licorice. Intense and unique, like the pinot noir./ Black fruits, nutmeg, vanilla, pecan. Texas fruitcake. These Rocas are nothing if not unique. Still some gritty malbec tannin to resolve. 15.5+. WT120909-15. 05 CHATEAU GREYSAC, CRU BOURGEOIS SUPERIEUR, MEDOC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Sweet black fruits and good new oak. 05 proportions, freshness, elegance. Great future./ The finesse of 05 claret. Some game notes and fine oak extras. Fine tannin. Superior to its appellation norms. Earns its classification. A keeper. 16.4+. WT120909-16. 07 VENTOUX 3 MESSES BASSES, VIGNERONS DE MONT VENTOUX - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet and ripe. Black and red fruits galore; overtones of dried Provencal herbs and flowers. Gamy, smoky, spicy. Powerful. Vintage richness and depth./ Yes, sweet, ripe fruit. Juicy too. Strawberry and raspberry, raspberry seeds, peppercorns. Again, the game and the power. Good structure and depth. Complete Ventoux. 16.0+. WT120909-17. 07 COTES DU RHONE BOUQUET, PATRICK LESEC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Large, sweet, modern, powerful on the attack. Then begins to should enticement as well as muscle. Refined airs of spiced cherry, nuts, tea leaf, chamomile, clove, and flowers. Bouqueted indeed. / Sweet and nutty. Good acidity. The wholesome fruit of 07 presented in a modern style. Well balanced, well composed. Not too blowsy. Great depth, polish,
nuance. Well liked by the group. 16.3+. WT120909-18. 07 COTES DU RHONE, CHATEAU MONT REDON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Deep, rich, elegant, classic. Black fruit, mocha, black pepper, other spices. And terroir./ Yes, it’s young and still compact. Not as revealing as the 06 tasted a couple of months ago. Garrigue, ripe black fruit, resin, game, spices. Well stated form and tradition. Mont Redon all the way. 16.4+.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009 WT120209-01. 08 CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE DRY OLD MISSION PENINSULA RIESLING - (U.S.) Fresh and juicy. Quince, apple, peach, pear, citrus peel. Tingles. Taut, dry, finely etched riesling./ Crisp, steely, flinty, penetrating. Juicy, flavorful, well tuned. Quince, pear, firm apricot. Long finish. Well liked by the group. 16.4. WT120209-02. 08 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE LES DABINIERES, DOMAINE BONNET-HUTEAU - (FRANCE LOIRE) Full, fresh, ripe. Rich for muscadet. Says ‘love me’. Apple, stone, dried flowers, botanicals. Lots of character, including the sur lie bread crust thing./ Full indeed. Suave for muscadet. Chablis like body and richness. Good sur lie grip and stony basis. Fine acidity, minerality. Certainly earns its Parker 91 rating.
Well liked
by the group. 16.4. WT120209-03. 09 CRISTOBAL 1492 MENDOZA WHITE - (ARGENTINA) 60% chardonnay, 25% viognier, 15% chenin blanc. Good effort. Juicy, appley chardonnay orientation. Dry. The aromatics are understated compared to past vintages../ Nice viognier flowery overtones. Chenin softens it, but doesn’t detract from a genuinely dry statement. Great acidity. Previous vintages were sweeter and more fragrant. This rendition is more versatile,
more useful
at the table. Bravo! Liked by the group. 16.3. WT120209-04. 08 RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO, BURGANS - (SPAIN) Firmer than the 07. Nice juicy berry with light floral accent. Stone fruits, apple, minerals./ Tight-knit and minerally 08 style. Good albarino fruit. Light orange zest tone. Nice varietal astringency. Good value. 15.6. WT120209-05. 08 ST. SUPERY NAPA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Intriguing for sure. Wow! I’d call this gooseberry to the extreme, but I guess ‘lime, agave, and corn silk’ (Wine & Spirits 90) are not out of the imagination. As well as quince, lemon, capsicum, cat, spice, and minerals. Full and unique./ Yikes! Crisp, tangy, piquant, penetrating. Sweet and full gooseberry jam character with great, zingy acidity to balance.
Glycerol
too. And plenty of California sauvignon blanc alcohol for heft and power–not that I’m enamored of that aspect. But with the right food, it will prove its worth. Long lasting finish. Unique in this series and in all the sauvignon world. Great now. 16.6. WT120209-06. 06 VALPOLICELLA, LATIUM - (ITALY) Quite full bodied and high powered. Boisterous fruit, red berries especially. Some game, leather, smoke, and spice./ Warm and polished. Lush, burnished fruit. Tart and dried cherries, and a creamy element. Lively, generous, forward, and easy. 15.8. WT120209-07. 06 TOSCANA, MONTE ANTICO - (ITALY) The group noticed right away that this was a departure from the Monte Antico style we’ve known and loved for years. Same for a couple of other 06 Italian rossos we’ve tasted lately. Can’t assign that to the vintage though. This is not a soft and saucy vintage. Clearly some wines’ styles are being changed to appeal to today’s tastes–both critics’ (earned a Wine Spectator 90
- Top 100
Wines of 2009) and general public’s. 85% sangiovese, 10% merlot, 55 cabernet sauvignon. Was it always so? I appreciate this better this evening than at the trade show in September. More time to study it helps. Sweet, rich, easy, and full to be sure. Generous./ Some wood vanilla, spice, caramel. Open hearted and sure to be popular. Won’t last decades like past vintages. But will likely improve a year or so. 16.2+. WT120209-08. 07 LANGHE NEBBIOLO, BEL COLLE - (ITALY) Deep, compact nebbiolo fruit Plum, lavender, spice, tar. 07 beauty, stylishness./ Rich and textured; satisfying. Juicy. Good acidity. Well balanced. Will likely bulk up with 2-3 years in bottle. Liked by the group. 16.2+. WT120209-09. 07 EXCELSIOR ROBERTSON CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (SOUTH AFRICA) Here we go again. The group interprets pure black currant as something vegetal and doesn’t abide by it This is real cabernet blackberry and black currant to the max, like in the 07 Errazuriz and others./ Sweet blackberry flavor. Smoke, tar, and touch of leather. Very little brett-dekk. Easy but true cabernet in the warm Robertson setting..15.6. WT120209-10. 07 ECHELON CENTRAL COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Another cabernet that may be just too cabernet for its own good. Central Coast cabernet (other than Paso Robles) can be that way due to the long growing season. Sweet black currant and some black cherry./ Wood spice, sandalwood, and caramel. Full black cherry and blackberry flavors. Attractive, easy. But, once again, black currant called herbal by the group
and not
appreciated. Maybe the next one will please...16.0. WT120209-11. 08 GRAYSON LOT 10 CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) No complaints about green stuff here, though the group had reservations because this cabernet seemed made in the winery, not the vineyard. A sweet nose of white chocolate and raspberries./ Yes, sweet, cake frosting taste. Mocha, coffee, milk chocolate. Some sweet oak extracts? Soft, plummy, creamy. Sooo easy. Cherry pipe tobacco. Long, vanilla cake frosting
finish.
All about winemaking. Good, marketable winemaking. 16.2. WT120209-12. 08 OC ROUGE, PUYDEVAL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 60% cabernet franc, 28% syrah, 12% merlot. Dark, crisp, cool. Full and fine. More like the 06 than the 07. Blackberry, with clove and floral accents. Lots of aromatic and textural variegation./ Yes, rich, juicy, flavorful. Fine texture and flavor subtleties. Good weight and integrity. This is even better than the 06, and better than the 07 too. Yet from a leaner
vintage
in the southern Rhone. Does it get better as you move west, like 02? Seems so. 16.4. WT120209-13. 07 CORBIERES, CHATEAU LA BASTIDE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% syrah, 20% grenache. Sweet pastille and confiture like aromas of 07 fruit forward nature. Lovely fruit. Floral flair. Cigar box. Parker fave stuff (90/100 - ‘Unbelievable Value’)./ Yes! Sweet red and black fruits. Good depth. Well integrated. Sassy. Easy. The one wine to have when you’re having more than one–and Parker has 200 a day. Liked by
the group.
16.1. WT120209-14. 07 VENTOUX TERRASSES, CHATEAU PESQUIE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) From 60-year-old Grenache and 30-year-old Syrah, one-third aged in small barrels and the rest in foudre and tank. Wow! Very ripe, with a great scorched fruit aroma set. Big, open, savory, bright, and plummy. Boysenberry, dark chocolate, floral extras. Wild and spicy./ Yes! Peppercorns, clove, sage. Juicy, with good acid brightness. Strong, full
textured,
singed, exotic, generous, enticing. Delivers plenty for the price. Earns its Parker 91 (‘Remarkable Bargain’) rating. Very popular with the group. 16.6. WT120209-15. 07 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE GRAND NICOLET - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dense and compact, dark and menacing. Tight and youthful, showing heaps of potential. Airing brings coffee, spice, game./ Yes, very tight. And big. Runs deep. Lots of material here. Black fruits, peels, pitch, licorice. Ripe and polished. Better in 3+ years. A group favorite, as well as Parker’s (90-93/100). 16.4++. WT120209-16. 08 J. LOHR BAY MIST MONTEREY RIESLING - (U.S.) Soft, sweet, fat, and reliable. Rich peach-apricot notions it always has./ Sweet peach-apricot confirmation. Open and easy. Intriguing hint of lemongrass. 15.5. WT120209-17. 08 MOSEL RIESLING, CLEAN SLATE - (GERMANY) Crisp, fresh, structured, stoic 08 style. Slatey indeed. Wine of place and time, and a good deal./ Good tangy, fresh acidity, mineral grip. Clear, accurate, uncomplicated. Gets the job done. As good as the 07 and likewise a reflection of vintage, varietal, and origin. 16.0. WT120209-18. 08 MOSEL RIESLING DR. L, DR. LOOSEN - (GERMANY) Crisp and tight 08 style. Apple and orange peel. Just right for region and vintage./ Yes, apple, citrus, pear, and walnut (slate). Off dry. Acid still coated. Elegant and distinguished. Another winner in the series. More than earns its Wine Spectator 90 (Top 100 Wines of 2009) rating. 16.3+. WT120209-19. 08 BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, MOMMESSIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) This has improved immensely with a year in bottle. It’s still wonderfully fresh, with all the appealing fruitiness of Beaujolais. And it’s full-fledged wine now. No longer astringent. No longer smelling of fermentation. Come hither. At a great stage for holiday use. Two weeks later, it was still bright, fresh, and fruity. Thanks to the good acidity. 16.1. WT120209-20. 08 BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, ALBERT BICHOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Still firm, still fresh. Young, tart, and true. Needs another 6 months to open up. 16.0+. WT120209-21. 08 BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, PASCAL CHATELUS - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) The group favorite. More of a garnet color. More yielding, more fruit on the nose than the others./ Softer. Joyous berry flavors. Well balanced. Nice. 16.3. WT120209-22. 08 BEAUJOLAIS PRIMEUR NOUVEAU, JOSEPH DROUHIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) My favorite. Fresh, firm, bright, and well structured Drouhin primeur styling. Fabulous, statuesque as Nouveaux go./ Berries galore. More intricate than the others. More textural interest. Great acidity. 16.5. WT120209-23. 08 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES NOUVEAU, ALBERT BICHOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Firm like the other Bichot, but clearly fuller./ Juicy. More dimension than the other Bichot. This will improve too. 16.2+.
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