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Tasting Notes Blog - Printer-Friendly Version
- December, 2007
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Wednesday, December 26, 2007 WT122607-01. 06 SANCERRE, DOMAINE VINCENT DELAPORTE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Brilliant, forceful, rich, striking. Crisp, incisive, floral, keen, steely, sassy. Celestial grapefruit./ Lemon drop and grass pungency. Great acidity. Wonderfully juicy, clearly delineated and defined Loire sauvignon. Near perfect example. 17.5. WT122607-02. 06 SAINT BRIS SAUVIGNON, GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full and spiritous as usual. Saint Bris sauvignon reminds us it’s a Burgundy wine and is appropriately fuller and more powerful than the Loire versions./ Compact, taut, high strung sauvignon vigor. Citrus, minerals, earth. Peas and other legumes. Softer and fuller in the mouth than Loire’s sauvignons. Still a bit muted from the voyage. 15.6+. WT122607-03. 06 BOURGOGNE ALIGOTE, GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh, boy! Fresh and juicy. Forceful, expressive. Almost a woody complex thanks to the old vines contribution. A participant who’s visited Goisot relates that the Cote d’Or growers all used to get their aligote from the Auxerre region, so the vines are well established here, many 60+ years old. Plenty of fruit and flowers too, especially for aligote./ Soft and full fruit for aligote, deep and rich. Lots of charm and accessibility. Juicy too. Speaks well of the vintage style. Classic, really. One of the best ever here. 16.7. WT122607-04. 06 BOURGOGNE COTES D’AUXERRE CHARDONNAY, GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh, good chardonnay apple and just a light touch of harmonious, well integrated oak zestiness. In the past, these were sometimes overly oaky, especially when young./ Nice and rich and round chardonnay mouthful with peach and melon as well as apple and oak nuances. Juicy, smooth, full textured. Finest yet of this cuvee. 16.9. WT122607-05. 06 SAINT BRIS FIE GRIS CORPS DE GARDE, GOISOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Rich and nutty, with ripe peach, Golden Delicious apple, wet stone, and grain aromas. Almost honeyed, sweet-meal like./ Both rich and racy. Voluminous, deep, lush, full,, and long. Fie gris is to sauvignon blanc as pinot gris is to pinot blanc. The group thought this the best Goisot vintage ever. 17.1. WT122607-06. 06 PIESPORTER FALKENBERG RIESLING, REUSCHER-HAART liter - (GERMANY) Whoa! For an 06 this has great cut. Piesporter peach, honey, and nuts. Big citrus peel etching./ Piesporter fat, round, and peachy. Quince, flowers, spice, and tea nuances. Wonderful juiciness, well tuned acidity. This is at least a spatlese in sweetness and concentration, maybe an auslese. Great value. 17.2. WT122607-07. 06 NAHE ESTATE RIESLING KABINETT, JAKOB SCHNEIDER liter - (GERMANY) Oh, boy. This has that Schneider mealy, grainy nature as usual. Richer and more honeyed than the 05. But less grip and structure./ Very flavorful. 06 fatness, softness. Dry extract gives extra textural interest. A lot of material here. 16.6+. WT122607-08. 05 RHEINHESSEN DRY GEWURZTRAMINER, GUNDERLOCH - (GERMANY) Rich, nutty, golden, autumnal. Gewurz viscosity and full aromatic range of rose, lychee, orange peel, ginger, mango, and tonic./ Floral and citrus flavors add to the complex aromatic melange. Good gewurz bitterness. Truly dry and nicely astringent and lengthy finish. This has plenty of mealtime possibilities. 16.1+. WT122607-09. 06 COTES DU RHONE ROSE A L’OMBRE DES FONTAINES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Gold Medal - Orange. 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% carignan. Fresh, bright and soft. Raspberry chiffon./ Bright and dry, with refreshing, cranberry-like tartness and peel-extract astringency. Great food rose. 16.0. WT122607-10. 05 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh! Intense, dark, solid, deep, dense pinot noir cherry and tar. Also boysenberry, raspberry, woodsy strains./ Strong, dry, tannic, austere in youth. Large and long. Packed with 05 material and goodness. Well hewn, but not as charming as some 05s. Jadot rouges are built to age, to reward the patient. The finest potential of any Jadot Bourgogne I’ve tasted. Give it 2-3 years in the cellar. 16.5+. WT122607-11. 06 PAVILION EDNA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Yes, really talks pinot noir. With the sweet herbs extras of an Edna pinot. Good and clear and fresh and sweet New World pinot statement./ All the attributes echo on the palate. All pinot all the time. Very juicy, with a refreshing dash of astringency at the finale. Meal-worthy indeed. 16.0. WT122607-12. 06 ELK COVE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Dark fruited, spicy, lightly woody. Intense smoky cherry aromas./ Dense, smoky black fruits and some gamy extras. Good Oregon pinot acidity and dryness. Well framed, especially for 06. Well balanced. I like its aging prospects. Give it 1-2 years of cellaring. 16.4+. WT122607-13. 06 COTES DU RHONE A L’OMBRE DES FONTAINES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, this is rich, sultry, deep, and smoky. Dense, compact, warm, and savory. Lush but controlled,/ Rich fruit on the palate too. Good acidity and peel extract. Fine tannin. Exceptionally well built for the price. I’m liking this 06 Meridionale vintage! 16.0+. WT122607-14. 06 COTES DU RHONE, DOMAINE DU GRAND PRIEUR - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Silver Medal - Avignon. Oh, my god! Is this deep, purple, floral, serious! Way upscale for Cotes du Rhone. Not so much like a Vacqueyras, which is its terroir, but blacker like a Rasteau./ Lovely, generous blackberry flavors with floral and spicy airs. Sweet and deep and powerful–and controlled. Large indeed. Most ambitious vintage yet. 16.4+. WT122607-15. 06 MINERVOIS, CHATEAU D’OUPIA - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Superb, deep, floral. Purple fruits and flowers, violets./ Dense, dark, and black currant laced. Nicely managed, fine-grained tannins. Plenty of material. 06 scores again. Fabulous–one of the best of this cuvee yet, and I’ve long been a fan of d’Oupia. 16.4+. WT122607-16. 05 BEAUMES DE VENISE LES FIGUIERES, VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 65% grenache, 25% syrah, 10% carignan. Ripe and smooth 05 style and polish. Sweet raspberry pastry, crumb cake, nuts. Viennese allure./ Yes, sweet and sassy. Dense, blackberry, cassis, and cherry flavors with hints of flowers, fennel, and game. That Beaumes de Venise brace and freshness. Young, tannic, meaty, lusty, yet stylish and controlled. Good future. 16.3+. WT122607-17. 06 VACQUEYRAS, DOMAINE DU GRAND PRIEUR - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Gold Medal - Orange. Big, spicy, peel saturated, sweet, plummy, purple, floral, giving./ Rich, creamy black fruits with a tobacco nuance and floral lift. Young wine with lovely, fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. Fine balance for aging. Plenty of panache here. 16.7+. WT122607-18. 05 THORN-CLARKE SHOTFIRE BAROSSA CUVEE BAROSSA RED - (AUSTRALIA) Open, full, plump, plummy, expressive. Broad complex of multi-varietal contributions and lots of oak barrel input too. Cassis, tobacco, tar, and menthol highlights./ Sweet and spicy wood contributions. Generous in its range of ripe fruits and wood. Both power and polish. Some fine, firm tannins. Needs a few months. 15.9+. Wednesday, December 19, 2007 WT121907-01. 06 SANCERRE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Yes, full, fresh, alert, ideal. Bright, tangy, stylish, aromatic. Lots of race, flair, zing. Citrus, minerals, white pepper./ Rich, suave texture. Just the right amounts and proportions of acidity and plumpness that 06s seem to be delivering. Fresh, floral airs. Lively and refreshing gooseberry cut and crunch. Long, juicy aftertaste. Come hither qualities. 16.7. WT121907-02. 06 SANCERRE CLOS DE CHAUDENAY, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Oh, this is big stuff. Deep, dense, rich, broad, and serious. Yes, Sancerre on a large, almost Burgundian scale. A lot of complexity: not just citrus but also soft tropical fruits, spices, and tonic, barbershop tones. And plenty of panache./ Indeed, full extract and concentration of old vines crop. Depth, elegance, subtlety, class. Lush, creamy
richness on the approach, foiled by racy acidity. Still holding back a lot in reserve. Loaded. 17.3+. WT121907-03. 06 SANCERRE ROSE, DOMAINE DAULNY - (FRANCE LOIRE) Still subdued but lively pinot noir fruit qualities./ Bright, racy, northern pinot. Sweet cherry fruit, tangy acidity, steely framework. A bit shy and apprehensive about its new surroundings; still recovering from the voyage. Give it a few weeks, and it will develop its full personality. 15.8+. WT121907-04. 05 BOURGOGNE CUVEE ST. VINCENT, VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Very, very beautiful fruit qualities of 05. Pure pinot precision. Good grip too. As it airs, it growing increasingly expressive. Big and bombastic now, with raspberry and cherry galore, even cassis../ Yes, lots of fruit delivery and quality. Sweet, pleasing black and red fruits, plus barrel influences, and even a touch of game. Great acidity.
Well balanced. Best of this cuvee I’ve tasted, at least from a potential standpoint. But, wow, it’s plenty svelte and pleasing now. 16.6+. WT121907-05. 05 BOURGOGNE EMOTION DE TERROIRS, VINCENT GIRARDIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Oh, this is deep and dark and northern. Shows its Nuits and Dijonnais background. Violets and Balaton cherries. Dense, intense./ Rich, gripping, chewy. Tight, structured, focused, deep. Broad and mouthfilling. Fabulous fruit concentration. Plus the barrel influences: wood smoke and cigar box. Girardin’s really got something going with
this cuvee, a real star in both 03 and 05. 17.0+. WT121907-06. 05 COTE DE BEAUNE VILLAGES, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Well, this is typical Jadot: tight , deep, measured, sleek, and racy in youth. Bright red cherry, cranberry, and tea aromas./ Yes, it’s very firm, but it has a nice punch of red cherry flavor. Solid core of fruit tannin. Some grace and charm evident, but can’t get the full read yet. 16.0++. WT121907-07. 05 GIVRY, LOUIS LATOUR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Whoa! A big bear of a wine! Warm, furry, and powerful. Compact purple-fruit core and high-toned minerality. Color, depth, race, scale, mass. Am I describing Louis Latour, or Chateau Latour?/ Big, solid, forthcoming. Sweet red and black cherries. Firm, assertive, emphatic, well tuned. Fine acidity and firm mineral brace. A lot of textural play: lush viscosity, chewy
extract and tannin. Long finish. One big Givry. Plays for keeps. 16.5+. WT121907-08. 05 MERCUREY DOMAINE DE LA CROIX JACQUELET, JOSEPH FAIVELEY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Rich, deep, dark, solid, handsome. This really runs deep like a Mercurey should. Game as well as ripe fruit smells./ Rich, meaty Mercurey pinot black cherry. And 05's complex range of stylish aromatic subtleties, like incense, spice, cassis, raspberry, and flowers. Finely balanced, deep, lively, well-bred, lovely. Full of Faiveley-type
material, extract, sense of importance. Bold. Certainly a more substantial and cellar-worthy than the 04, good as that wine is. 17.0+. WT121907-09. 05 MARSANNAY, LOUIS LATOUR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Dark and northern. Cool, coy, sleek, elegant. Red and black fruits show a certain roundness./ Compact, chewy, young. Lovely, ripe, high-toned Marsannay acidity. With air come round, ripe, juicy black cherry and peel flavors. Tremendous refinement and poise. Best potential of any Latour Marsannay I’ve tasted. 16.5+. WT121907-10. 05 SANTENAY CLOS DE MALTE, LOUIS JADOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Tight, as was the Cote de Beaune Villages. More substantial than that wine though. Deeper too./ Lovely, compact, linear fruit of Jadot. The most substantial example of this cuvee in a long time. 16.4 +. WT121907-11. 05 SANTENAY LA COMME 1ER CRU, LOUIS LATOUR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fullest, roundest, and meatiest of the Latour 05s so far. Smoky, gamy, dense, and deep. Plenty of red and black fruits. Premier Cru elegance, flair, and class./ And there’s more character here, more beauty too. Plump fruit, racy, juicy, lively, and fine acidity. Well built for aging. A lovely Santenay with Premier Cru distinction. 16.7+. WT121907-12. 05 PERNAND VERGELESSES ILE DE VERGELESSES 1ER CRU, LOUIS LATOUR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Wow! Great elegance , transparency, and delineation of Pernand pinot. And the class of this great, underrated vineyard./ Yes, pinot clarity, beauty, subtlety, finesse. Abundant fruit, depth, and importance. Really shows the character and pedigree of its origin. And the whole gamut of 05 Latour-ness. A treat, and very reasonably
priced as 05 Premiers Crus go. 17.2+. WT121907-13. 06 AUDE MARSELAN, CHATEAU CAMPLAZENS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Marselan is a cross of cabernet sauvignon and grenache developed in France, likely at Montpellier in the Midi. Whoa! Is this wild! The sweet nose of grenache for sure. And some raw currant from the cabernet side./ Palate echoes both. Plush, and at the same time raw, black fruit. High strung, piquant, lively. Red berry, sage, and citron. Almost
an Eastern American hybrid wildness. Something new. 15.8. WT121907-14. 05 LIRAC, CHATEAU BOUCARAT - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dense and hearty, deep and smoky-gamy. One husky Lirac./ Deep, dense, chewy, savory, saturated. Yes, it’s very hearty indeed but retains Gard race and coolness. Fine value. 16.6+. WT121907-15. 04 LA CLAPE COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC LA GARRIGUE, CHATEAU CAMPLAZENS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! Sweet red currant and real garrigue extras./ Very flavorful, sweet, racy, juicy. Black cherry, tiny wild fruits, woodsy flairs, quetsch. Nicely tuned, with cleansing acidity of 04. Unique. 15.9. Wednesday, December 12, 2007 WT121207-01. 06 LAETITIA ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) The citric Arroyo Grande face of chardonnay. Fortunately, avoids the heavy-handed malolactic meddlin that some winemakers employ to pad it. Lively, solid, reserved./ Not that there’s an absence of vanilla-creme oak persuasion. Nicely cut by the wine’s citricity. Good balance. Tangy, lively, lemony, charming. Racy and supple. Oak spices come through on
the creamy finish. 16.2+. WT121207-02. 06 GRECO DI TUFO LOGGIA DELLA SERRA, TERREDORA DIPAOLO - (ITALY) Wow! Full, fresh lemon creme. And creme brulee. And peach. Just the huge richness of greco–all you could ask for. And fine, racy acidity and stony minerality too./ Yes, the complete greco package featuring both viscosity and crisp cut. Heft, generosity, ripeness, depth. Lemon, lime, almond, minerals. Fabulous. The Talk of the Tasting. 16.9.
WT121207-03. 06 RIESLING EXTREME, PIERRE SPARR - (FRANCE ALSACE) I get the point! Very floral, perfumed, and replete with a piercing lemon oil quality. It really is extreme!/ Wow! Like citrus oil. Plus green apple and flambeed orange peel. Full acidity and astringency. But there’s nice, soft, ripe fruit too. And 06 lift and clarity. Assertive, exotic, ambitious. I’m always looking for a new wine experience that’s out
of the mainstream, so this is entirely pleasing to me. Others agreed. 16.4. WT121207-04. 06 ALSACE ONE, PIERRE SPARR - (FRANCE ALSACE) A fun edelzwicker featuring more muscat than gewurz perfume. That’s unusual./ The palate has that rosy gewurz hue though. And the varietal’s noted combo of viscosity and astringency. So gewurz certainly plays a part too. The basis is pinot blanc, which appropriately dilutes muscat and gewurz intensity to make the wine more refreshing and quaffable. Pinot gris
is a minor player and might account for some of the viscosity. Or maybe that’s silvaner speaking. Light sachet on the aftertaste. 16.0. WT121207-05. 06 ORVIETO CLASSICO AMABILE, BIGI - (ITALY) Rich and nutty, with ripe apple basis. Shows both greco and malvasia refreshed by trebbiano.. Very, very clean and clear. Lovely amabile nose for the price./ Flavors of apple, firm pear, and cooked pear. Sweetish for sure. Mild in youth. The balance is there, but the acidity is still rather coated in the same sense as many 06 Germans. Give it some time to show.
15.8+. WT121207-06. 06 RAMSPECK NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Very ripe. Jelly-fruit pectin. Ripe black cherries and wood char too–like cherries jubilee with the warmed and brandied influences./ Certainly shows sensuous black cherry pinot flavor and round, fetching richness. Dark chocolate too. Light pinot-like tannin. Still a young-wine edge to the acidity. Would be appreciated more with food, which could assuage the youthful
bite. Or saved six months. 16.2+. WT121207-07. 05 COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES COLUMBIA MERLOT - (U.S.) Rich and fruity, deep and purple. With well integrated oak. The downfall of young Columbia Crests years back was that the oak was usually apart, and dominant. Not here. There’s plenty of compact sweet cherry, and chocolate too. This is fine. Clearly better than the Spectator Top 100 04./ Lush fruit. And so rich and intricate, classy oak melange of
flavors: mocha, milk chocolate, Asian spices. Well balanced in all respects. Fine depth. Very long aftertaste. Fine value. 16.3. WT121207-08. 06 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, CALDORA - (ITALY) Fine acid ring, clarity, and crispness is the first impression to strike the nostrils. Then the aromas: fresh fruit, dried fruit, meat, and viscosity. Deep and rich. All this just in the nostrils./ Yes, it’s racy, with lovely, deep, and abundant red and black berry flavors. Well balanced. Positively lithe...and ready to enjoy. Even at this price level, montepulciano’s
pedigree proves itself. Best of this series I’ve tasted. You could say ‘good value’ about most of the past vintages. This is better than that. Great value. 16.0+. WT121207-09. 06 TERRE DI CHIETI SANGIOVESE, CALDORA - (ITALY) This has surprising class too, considering the price. Deep and dark. A nice roasted sense without dried, stewed, or jammy fruit. Dark berry aromas that penetrate deep into the sinuses./ Lush and viscous texture like an upscale sangiovese. Light dusting of fine, polished tannins. Very flavorful. One of the best non-DOC sangioveses (excluding the Super Tuscans,
of course!). 15.9. WT121207-10. 06 CHIANTI TITOLATO, STROZZI - (ITALY) Sweet and fresh. Well, what’s this? There’s a pate like aroma here I find in red wines from time to time. I mean: meat, liver, black pepper, and mushrooms. I like it./ Strong, deep, penetrating, and meaty palate. Sweet, forward, ripe, berried fruit and touches of cassis and tarragon. Some dry tannins to resolve still. 15.6+. WT121207-11. 05 BARBERA DEL PIEMONTE OTTONE I, SAN SIVESTRO - (ITALY) Fine, fresh, black, cool, vigorous, deep, spicy. Sweet, almost liqueur like fruit./ Projects a certain depth at first; it doesn’t follow though. Turns rather fluid and superficial. I liked the previous vintage(s?) more. However, one cannot complain too strongly at this price. And the wine might fill out with time. The nose certainly shows promise.15.7+. WT121207-12. 05 BARBERA D’ALBA CAMPO DEL GATTO, COSTA DI GATTO - (ITALY) Well, this is another matter, and one that can justify its higher price. More vigor, texture, darkness, and depth. Wonderfully tingly in the nose, as barbera ought to be: not coarse, but markedly textured. Dense, powerful, spicy, nutty, racy, juicy./ Oh, and there’s the smooth, glycerined aspect of barbera too. And the great acidity! Yes! The best
barberas project both at once! Intense, penetrating plum and cherry flavors. Black cherry and raspberry suggestions too. The real deal. Hallmark barbera. 17.3. WT121207-13. 04 OC SYRAH RESERVE, HENRI MARC - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Wow! O4 coolness, syrah spicy ripe berry. Racy, peppery nose with garrigue nuances./ Packs a real punch for the price. Very flavorful, spicy, racy, full, long, fine. Enormous value. 16.0. WT121207-14. 05 GREG NORMAN LIMESTONE COAST SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Nose reduced./ Yes, and palate has astringency and bitterness of reduction. Didn’t we have another reduced Norman wine recently? Air and age. 14.0++. WT121207-15. 05 VAUCLUSE, DOMAINE LA MONARDIERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% grenache, 20% syrah. Fresh, and laden with bramble, peppercorn, and garrigue herb-spice-flowers extras. Starts solid, deep, and reserved, but with air shows plump and stylish fruit and aromatic flair. And there’s a hint of vanilla richness too–from where?/ Great acidity and tannin in the proper doses. Spicy, nervy, well structured. The group
reported this dumb at first. I got more out of it late. And, in the context of things, the 04 and 00 are clearly going to be the more expressive France Med wines of the set. This is one impressive Vaucluse though, one that has a lot going for it now and later. 16.1+. WT121207-16. 00 FAUGERES, CLOS ROQUE D’ARMS - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 80% mourvedre, 10% each syrah and grenache. Mature bouquet of dried red fruit, raisin, blackberry, sage, rosemary, and nutmeg./ Rugged, earthy, ample. Began to lose its vitality and appeal later in the evening, so open, use, or lose. Well liked by the group. 15.7. WT121207-17. 04 FOLIE A DEUX AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Very rich, full, sweet, and strong. FaD in your face style. And a lot of zin fans want that smack in the face with a raspberry pie. Oh, and not to mention the American oak–de rigueur in traditional zins. Actually, it’s not blatant here, it’s not excessive. It’s high toned, with sandalwood notes. The surfeit of 04 fruit ripeness is enough to carry it./ Rich, round,
and strong. Yes, the fruit and oak balance is right. Good acidity, framework, cohesion. Amador forthright, expressive. Fine tannin. What it should be. 16.6. WT121207-18. 05 FOUR VINES MAVERICK AMADOR ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Firm and strong too. But less frank, maybe because there’s something reduced about it at this stage. It’s a year younger, after all, and from a slower-to-evolve vintage. Runs deep and dark./ Firm, tannic, clearly younger than the FaD. Well, that’s the vintage. I mean, it’s two years younger, not one, due to relative vintage nature. However, this is a potentially
fine wine. And with aeration, it begins to make its point, running to bigger, juicier, sassier directions that expand to fill the mouth Fine structure and depth. Not as boisterous as the FaD, but, given aeration, delicious all the same. 16.3+. Wednesday, December 5, 2007 WT120507-01. 06 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, CHATEAU DE LA CHESNAIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) By Bernard Chereau. Full, fabulous, and forthcoming pie apple and bosq pear fruit and peel aromas, with hints of botanicals and hysop./ Rich, soft textured, burnished. The acidity is plentiful but soft and ripe in ideal Muscadet fashion. Expansive, demonstrative, and large as Muscadets go. A lovely production in the vintage style,
one of the best 06s I’ve tasted. The group was very enthusiastic. 16.5. WT120507-02. 07 CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CENTRAL VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Brisk and tingly on the approach, but then senses of heaviness and strength manifest themselves, diminishing the refreshing qualities./ On entry, bright, stylish, youthful grapefruit and grass sauvignon impressions. Once again though, the wine turns out a little too dense and powerful for my tastes. I prefer the levity and vigor
of the Santa Ritas. 15.7. WT120507-03. 06 ALTO ADIGE SAUVIGNON, CANTINA TRAMIN - (ITALY) Very floral, breezy, tonic, racy, stony. And almost peachy. A unique and fine face of sauvignon./ Yes, the flowers and the firm, slightly underripe peach. And elegant, stylish, classy sauvignon. Nothing else quite like it in the sauvignon world. Special. 16.3. WT120507-04. 06 VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO, GROGRAFICO - (ITALY) Fine, full apple, pear, peel, melon, hay. Rich for vernaccia. Nutty. Something vaguely evergreen like a maturing riesling./ Richly textured too. But there’s something coarse and astringent to the foundation. Not terribly so, but enough to leave the term ‘finesse’ out of the formula. Good wine though, and will satisfy with food. The group was more enthusiastic
than I. 16.0. WT120507-05. 06 GEYSER PEAK ALEXANDER VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Certainly shows the full oak and vanilla of a young Geyser Peak wine. Buttered popcorn and tropical fruit, especially papaya./ Yes, full oak plus the high alcohol of Alexander Valley chardonnay. The 05 settled down to a nice harmony of oak and fruit and made a delicious bargain. But, then, 05 fruit is a little stouter. 06 requires oak treatment with a
lighter touch. I suspect this will harmonize over the coming months though. 15.7+. WT120507-06. 07 BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, DOMAINE PASCAL CHATELUS - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Must have been a warm late season in Beaujolais, because this year’s nouveau wines sure show a Banana Belt influence. Yes, big-time bananas and berries like the Drouhin. Intense and young./ Again, very forthcoming. Loaded, really. Astringent in youth, or due to travel stress. It’s going to take some weeks for the floral finesse, depth, and
complexity this cuvee has shown in the past to manifest itself. It has the acidity, frame, and backbone to take some aging. Buy now before it’s sold out, and enjoy in March-April. 16.0+. WT120507-07. 06 SMOKING LOON CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Rich and savory, racy. True pinot black cherry, plum, tea, tar./ Full, rich, and warm climate ripe pinot. Tastes and feels like more expensive versions. Another accomplished, cleverly crafted Smoking Loon red that delivers for the price. 15.9. WT120507-08. 06 CHALONE MONTEREY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Maybe it’s just the context, but this seems much more sophisticated than the 05 Chalone Monterey as I remember it. Less pinched too, less Monterey and 05 severe. Dark, deep, and plummy fruit with well integrated oak nuances. Fine, really./ Full, expressive, deep. Showing lovely black cherry and flowers flavors that fill the mouth. Great acidity and juiciness. Finishes
astringent and tannic though. But that only points to ageworthiness. Really ambitious for the price. Blind, I might have picked it for the $30 Chalone estate pinot. 16.4+. WT120507-09. 06 RODNEY STRONG RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Young, tight, ripe, resistant. There’s some wood behind the firm, smoky, black fruit./ Tough, tannic, astringent, stoic. Airing brings more depth and textural expression, but, boy, this is pretty stern, chewy, potent stuff to taste without food. One of the most backward Strong pinots I’ve tasted. Maybe because it’s the youngest. 15.9+. WT120507-10. 05 MACMURRAY CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Real Central Coast pinot style, right down to the profusion of tea leaf aromas. High toned sandalwood airs hover over a foundation of ripe black and red cherries and a dab of cassis./ Good pinot soft fruit with complementary acidity to give it race. An expressive and large (but not oppressively so) pinot. Rather, it’s stylish and easy, and shows good depth.
16.1. WT120507-11. 06 BARBERA D’ALBA, ENZO BOGLIETTI - (ITALY) Rich and loaded. Deep cherry and berry, especially black cherry. All barbera all the way. Alba barbera, black to the core./ Full bodied and full flavored. Ambitious. Finely polished tannins point to good winemaking. Nothing rustic about it. Modern winemaking that doesn’t detract a bit from senses of varietal and place. Bravo! 17.0. WT120507-12. 05 ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Begins with 05 and Euro restraint, elegance, and terroir. Fine, ripe fruit and first-class, well integrated oak. With aeration, becomes intense, strong, balanced, rich, loaded./ Full and rich and ripe fruit for a young 05. And fine oak in harmony. Ripe tannins. Boy, these have gone from strength to strength over the past three vintages
after being small-scaled for so many years. 17.4. WT120507-13. 05 COTES DU RHONE, CHATEAU SUZEAU - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe fruit and exotic extras like cassis, eau-de-vie, aromatic barks, peppered jerky. Sweet and sassy and ready to please./ Sleek and racy fruit flavors and textures. Plenty of verve. Ample tannins. But what’s this? Seems to be shutting down rather than opening up during aeration, so may require some cellar time. 16.0+. WT120507-14. 05 LIRAC, CHATEAU DE SEGRIES - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rich and concentrated. More so than the 04. Plum, game, and licorice highlights. Yow! This says a lot! The complete Lirac./ Yes, rich and ripe and right. Polished, dense, and deep. The tannin is very fine grained and the fruit 05 wholesome and substantial. There are really lots of good things going on here. Great vintage for the Right Bank if I can judge
by the Segries, Mordoree, and Sainte Anne wines. And what a handsome price! 16.9+. WT120507-15. 05 VACQUEYRAS LES 2 MONARDES, DOMAINE LA MONARDIERE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fine, even fabulous, perfume of ripe berries, flowers, garrigue. Really fills the nostrils and sinuses./ The texture is full and fine too, and the tannin. Chewy and loaded with material. The opposite of the Suzeau, this was perceived by the group as very, very tight earlier. Opening up with aeration is the more normal course of
events. 17.1+. WT120507-16. 06 PFALZ RIESLING MEDIUM DRY, POLKA DOT - (GERMANY) Good development already–not resinous but nicely burnished rather than showing the fatness and sweetness of youth. The richness of Pfalz and the vigor of German riesling./ At least kabinett sweet, and well balanced. The acidity is not so prominent, in the nature of the vintage. Good value. 15.4. WT120507-17. 06 PFALZ RIESLING MEDIUM SWEET, POLKA DOT - (GERMANY) Richer, with a nice Pfalz peach aspect to the nose/ But the palate is milder, tamer, coarser, and duller than the above. Has a riesling impact though. 15.0. WT120507-18. 06 MOSCATO D’ASTI, MASSOLINO - (ITALY) Lithe and floral, with peach-apricot succulence too. And tangerine./ Lots of flavor impressions: apple, blueberry, melon, orange, mango, loquat, and rose. Light and sweet and pleasant. Adequate acidity. Impressive complexity and finesse command the premium price. 17.0 WT120507-19. 06 BOWERS HARBOR BLOCK II OLD MISSION PENINSULA RIESLING - (U.S.) Gold Medal - Michigan Wine Competition. And it certainly deserves it. Ample, full textured northern riesling./ Off dry, with plenty of tingly textural presence on nose and palate alike. Great acidity and extract. 16.7. |
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