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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- December, 2005 |
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Wednesday, December 21, 2005 wt122105-01. BLACK
STAR FARMS MICHIGAN HARD APPLE CIDER -
(FRUIT) Good, zesty nose with an attractive degree of hard-cider
volatile acidity. Crisp. Really quite delicate and refined for the
genre./ Both sweet and tangy. Fresh and tangy. Mild mousse. Riesling-like.
15.5. wt122105-02. E.
BARNAUT BOUZY GRAND CRU GRAND RESERVE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Fullness of a Bouzy, with a wonderful sense
of freshness too. Bronzed, buxom red fruit, apple and pear, bread
dough and toast./ Very rich palate. Toast, brioche, cream. Solid,
weighty, serious, decisive, complex. Shows a tensile vigor and minerality.
Swells in the mouth, clings, and lingers long. 17.8. wt122105-03. E.
BARNAUT BOUZY GRAND CRU BLANC DE NOIRS BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING) Heavier in red fruit. Cherry and strawberry.
Very toasty and heavy. Eager to please but constrained somewhat
by its youthfulness./ Very creamy mousse. Well aged en tirage. The
mousse is completely integrated. Exceptionally lush, full, suave.
Solid core of fruit. Needs table fare. Will appreciate with cellaring
time. 17.5+. wt122105-04. 04
CHATEAU SOUVERAIN SONOMA CHARDONNAY -
(U.S.) Rich, round, sweet, oaky, voluminous. Mirrors the generous
style of the 03. Just needs a few more months to broaden out further./
Fine, creamy texture. Good acidity. Shows a malo component and a
no-malo part too. Well controlled, toasty oak. These used to be
too oaky. Just right now. 16.3. wt122105-05. 04
CHABLIS, CHRISTIAN MOREAU - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Very clean, sleek, stylish. Green apple, green melon, light calcaire
and flint, and lees autolysis aromas. Nice./ Good acid burnish,
finely etched. Mild and gentle, shy and delicate. Nice, clinging
aftertaste. Seems a little reined in yet. 16.2+. wt122105-06. 04
CHABLIS, VINCENT DAUVISSAT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Lively, smoky-oaky, and authoritative as usual. Good acidity, full-textured
and tingly. Plenty of power and a solid core of fruit. Peach and
pear highlights. A seductive expression of chardonnay. An ample
wine./ Fat and powerful. Very high-pitched fruit, fruit tannin,
and mineral expression. Smoky oak. Crisp and steely on the finish.
Young and ambitious. Much to gain from aging. 16.5+. wt122105-07. 02
CHABLIS VAILLON 1ER CRU, CHRISTIAN MOREAU
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) 1er Cru full. At an unattractive stage, showing
calcaire to excess, so that it smells like wallpaper paste, old
honey, and brie rind. Young Raveneaus smell like this for the first
several years. It will pass./ Yes, the earthy substratum in presently
dominant. Some tropical fruit in the background, particularly mango.
A waste to use now though. Must age. 15.6++. wt122105-08. 04
CHABLIS LA FOREST 1ER CRU, VINCENT DAUVISSAT
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Lots of oak as usual. Like the Chablis, needs
plenty of time to absorb the oak. But already bright notes of clementine
are emerging. Good mineral basis./ Very full, 1er Cru full. Lots
of class. Young, sturdy, tough, tight. And very woody. Needs time.
16.8++. wt122105-09. 01
ASARA STELLENBOSCH SHIRAZ - (SOUTH AFRICA)
A mellow degree of maturity. Plenty of the usual leather. Good fruit
freshness still. But no varietal character./ Rusty, medicinal, full
force. Char, smoke, cedar. Smooth on entry, but turns herbal and
astringent in the back. Drink soon. 13.3 wt122105-10. 04
MCWILLIAMS HANWOOD ESTATE SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Black fruits, chocolate, and some oak. Subtle, not
overblown. Has an intense feel. Reliable and modern./ Ripe fruit.
Smooth mouthfeel. A great value. 15.6. wt122105-11. 03
FRANCISCAN OAKVILLE ESTATE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Like the 02, Lush and fruity, and not overoaked..
Demonstrative. Showing some complexities of development already.
Slightly less depth than the 02, or it may just need time to fill
out./ Rich oak vanilla. Ripe, seductive fruit and spices. Oak and
fruit tannin supply framing, keep it from getting too promiscuous.
The oak and fruit are commendably well integrated. Some age potential
here. 16.8+. wt122105-12. 03
TURNBULL ESTATE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Intense, young, robust, big-boned, plummy. Really a dense,
compact, tarry, earthy wine compared to the seductively fruity 02.
Complexing elements of flowers and oak. Deep-woven texture. Great
concentration. Shows a lot of class and potential./ Tough and tight.
Thick, well extracted, tannic. Rather a bully at present. Needs
2-3 years. 17.0+.
Wednesday, December 14, 2005 wt121405-01. 98
COUTIER AMBONNAY GRAND CRU BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) Full, round Ambonnay style. Very nutty. Strawberries
and cream under generous nut topping. Hint of kirsch. 98 fruit plumpness.
Lots of croissant bottle bouquet./ Very suave and creamy mousse.
Lots of red fruit, vanilla, nuts, and cream. Good fruit acidity
and rigid framing. Young. This will earn complexity and sophistication
as it ages. 17.0+. wt121405-02. 96
JACQUESSON AVIZE GRAND CRU EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) Disgorged 2/05. Entirely from chardonnay, 62-83 year
old vines, and three east-facing slopes: Champ Cain, La Fosse, and
Nemey. Extraordinary nose. Super depth, delicate toast, great finesse.
Lightness of mousse. Texture of silk. Smoothness of cream. Very,
very finely wrought. Very sophisticated./ Huge depth of flavor.
96's huge mass and rich texture. Both grip and finesse. Grace, depth,
intricacy, and flair. Penetrating chardonnay citricity. Endless
finish. 19.0+. wt121405-03. 04
WILD BUNCH CALIFORNIA WHITE - (U.S.) Chardonnay,
chenin blanc, pinot grigio. Fine varietal fruit melange: chardonnay
apple, chenin melon, pinot grigio nut. Rich and deep fruit characters,
nicely delineated. Nice minerality too./ Flavorful. Sweetish. Mild
acidity. The varietal distinctions are less clear on the palate,
leaving a more homogenized impression. 15.0. wt121405-04. 04
TRINITY OAKS CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO -
(U.S.) Nice nutty nose with aroma and texture variegation. Light
cedar touch. The real deal./ Rich, vivacious, and flavorful. Intensely
and decidedly varietal. Good, ripe acidity gives a tender mouthfeel.
A charmer. 15.7. wt121405-05. 04
TRINITY OAKS CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
Full and heavy Burgundian approach. Nice oak char. Ripe apple fruit.
Rich, and well crafted./ Wood char and apple flavors, in harmony.
Well formed. Soft and enticing. A bargain. There’s a skilled winemaker
at Trinity Oaks. 15.6. wt121405-06. 04
BOURGOGNE BLANC, DOMAINE BERNARD MOREY
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Vanilla and toast. Custard apple fruit. Well
textured and generous. Lush, bombastic even, with Chassagne style
and size, real power, and racy minerality. The usual style and amplitude
here. One of my favorite Bourgogne blancs./ Striking, authoritative.
Very rich compote of oak, vanilla, toast, caramel apple, and butterscotch.
Balanced, rich, and most forthcoming. 17.0 wt121405-07. 04
TRINITY OAKS CALIFORNIA JOHANNISBERG RIESLING
- (U.S.) Lots of apricot and cedar. Light edelfirne touch. Quite
Germanic./ Great apricot and cedar flavors too. Racy, well-textured
fruit acidity. Mild (kabinett) sweetness. This has class. Great
price. 15.7. wt121405-08. 03
BOURGOGNE CUVEE GERARD POTEL, NICOLAS POTEL
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Class and depth. Potel precision, race, clarity.
Elegant oak. Fine pinot cherry and tea. Assertive, meaty, spicy,
lively./ Rich and racy Potel styling. 03 power, grip, and fruit
mass. Wow! I’m lovin’ the good wines of this 03 vintage. Different
from the 02s but equally desirable. Potel’s most ambitious Bourgogne
yet. 16.8+. wt121405-09. 03
COTE DE NUITS VILLAGES VIEILLES VIGNES, NICOLAS POTEL - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) More Cote de Nuits black fruit here.
Black cherry, black plum, black tea. Old vines grip. Large framed,
high strung./ Liqueur-like concentration, eau de vie-like beauty.
Prunelle and kirsch. Small wild fruits. Racy, cool, and fine acidity–that’s
Potel. Very cooly styled for an 03. 17.0+. wt121405-10. 03
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET VIEILLES VIGNES, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Large proportioned in the 03 style.
The fruit is ripe, warm, fully mature. Big oak toast to match. Big
and powerful, loaded in all respects. Large framed, burly, fully
extracted.. Masses of fruit./ Again. Huge power and grip of 03 and
old vines. Rich, meaty black plum and black cherry flavors. Full
and fine tannins. Ambitious; going places. 17.2+. wt121405-11. 03
POMMARD LES VIGNOTS, NICOLAS POTEL - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Pommard fat, 03 powerful, Potel framed, controlled. Fine,
racy oak intricacies. Bright, lovely, suave, smooth, plummy, and
floral./ Big blast of fruit on the palate, with wonderful Potel
clarity. Deliciously plump Pommard pinot. The tannin is lavish and
fine-grained, supplying just the right sort of framing. The acidity
is perfect. Lovely future. 17.5++. wt121405-12. 03
WILD BUNCH CALIFORNIA RED - (U.S.) Zinfandel,
syrah, barbera. Fruit density and volume. Broad spectrum of varietal
characteristics. Rich, sweet, generous./ The fruit is sweet but
also cool and racy. Good tannin. A lovely, thoughtfully crafted
cuvee. 15.5. wt121405-13. 02
TRINITY OAKS CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Cabernet size and grip. Black currant, cedar, and American
oak (dill). Oak needs a little more settling-in time./ Flavorful.
Cabernet firmness, and oak and fruit tannin to lose. A little aggressive
still on its own, but with beef it will likely hit the spot even
at this age. 15.0+. wt121405-14. 01
CHIANTI RISERVA, VILLA PUCCINI - (ITALY)
Sweet and mellow. Fruit billows, surges forth with airing. The oak
seasoning is a little obvious, and likely from chips. But it’s attractive
and not aggressive./ Ripe fruit and a large measure of oak seasoning.
Mulberry, smoked, meat, leather. Riserva maturity and mellowness.
15.3+. wt121405-15. 04
CAMPO DE BORJA GARNACHA TRES PICOS, BORSAO
- (SPAIN) Ripe and balanced grenache presentation. Not as powerful
and insistent as the 03, or even the 01. I like it for its composure,
its equilibrium. Nice grenache strawberry aroma. Good density and
depth./ Flavorful. Spicy, sweet, and soft–this is real grenache.
In fact, high-octane grenache. Nice grip. Good weight and strength.
Well balanced. 16.3+. wt121405-16. 01
AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE, ARS POETICA - (ITALY)
Warm, ripe, powerful, young, ebullient southern rosso. Very husky,
spicy, savory black fruits. This will need some time. Aristocratic
bearing. No wonder it’s called The Barolo of the South./ Rich, bold,
and full textured. Fine oak embellishments. Everything’s here in
spades. 01 acidity and framing keeps it from overflowing the plate.
Will reward cellaring. 16.5++. wt121405-17. 03
VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RIPASSO SOLANE, SANTI - (ITALY) Sweet and ripe fruit. Nice and meaty black
cherry character./ Medium-full bodied. Balanced, well composed.
Good acidity for 03. Not as far along the scale to amarone as many
ripassos. But there’s enough dried-fruit, pitch, and authority to
judge it legitimate. A lot of range and action for the price. More
bouquet to come, but very smooth and agreeable for current drinking.
16.0+. wt121405-18. TOSCANA
VIN SANTO, VILLA PUCCINI half liter -
(ITALY) Nut, dried fruit, and light oak. More age and sophistication
than the other non-vintage we sell, the San Vito./ Sweet, mild,
and tawny. Quite like an old tawny or oloroso, without the high
spirit level. Honey and sultana. An attractive value. 16.0+.
Wednesday, December 7, 2005 wt120705-01. 04
CHATEAU DE CRAIN, ENTRE DEUX MERS - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Lots of varietal complexity here. sauvignon tingle, muscadelle
lime peel, semillon apple, sauvignon gris smoke and nut./ Semillon
plumpness, sauvignon zing, muscadelle bitter flower, sauvignon gris
peel coloration. Nice stony substratum. Bright, crisp, racy, and
charming. Back to the classic composure of the 02 after an abnormally
ripe 03. 16.0+. wt120705-02. 04
CHATEAU MAGNEAU, GRAVES BLANC - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Fabulous sauvignon statement leads the way. Cool and racy.
Some muscadelle perfume highlights nicely complicate the aroma.
Mineral lacings. Citrus zest. The sauvignon component is very brisk
and bracing, almost Sancerre-like./ Semillon supplies full body.
Vigorous, tingly sauvignon acidity. Rich and flavorful. Stony base.
Yow! What a compelling wine! 16.4. wt120705-03. 04
FREI BROS. REDWOOD CREEK CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Apple-lemon chardonnay notes. Oak, malo cream, grain, and
tawny orange casts too./ Yellow fruit and cereal grain flavors.
Nice, tingly acidity under a sweet veneer. Full alcohol and body.
Yes, the acidity is adequate. The sweetness is certainly noticeable
after two French wines, but it’s pleasant. This wine has its place.
15.1. wt120705-04. 04
CASTLE ROCK CARNEROS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Rich and valid pinot. Sweet, spicy, and sassy. Tart cherry Carneros
representative that is reminiscent of 01 red burgundies./ Both sweet
and tart on the palate. Good, ripe acidity. Especially sweet for
Carneros–in a positive way. Cherry, berry, oak, and milk chocolate
flavors. Nice value. 15.9+. wt120705-05. 03
CHATEAU DE CRAIN, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR -
(FRANCE BORDEAUX) 03 ripe and thick-textured, with lovely aromas
of bramble, cracked pepper, and violets. Very fine fruit perfume
augmented by very subtle oak undertones./ Flavorful and rangy fruit
flavors, wood tinged. Complex, ripe, and well textured. Ripe acidity
and tannin. Delivers a real punch of rich fruit flavor, fetching
and enjoyable. 16.1+. wt120705-06. 02
CHATEAU MOULIN DE L’ESPERANCE, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Black fruit, tobacco, and tar-licorice
of 02 claret. Merlot herb and cabernet franc green bean. More structured
and less ripe and easy than the 00./ Rich fruit flavor. Big structure.
Dark 02 peel-extract grip. Classic 02. 15.7+. wt120705-07. 02
CHATEAU PEYRAUD, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Deep, variegated, complex. Ripe fruit and vanilla.
Plum and oak perfumes. Not a tough 02; more open than most of its
peers./ Rich and ripe and flavorful. High-toned fruit and oak aromatics.
Delicious claret fruit savor. Well balanced. 16.0+. wt120705-08. 02
CHATEAU BEYNAT, CUVEE LEONARD, COTES DE CASTILLON - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Lovely ripe fruit and new oak. The
old vines fruit intensity is fully up to the oak influence. Claret
on steroids. And, harmonious./ Rich and full and delicious. Big,
plump gob of fruit with oak savors. Surely one of the best of a
Castillon’s New Wave. 16.9+. wt120705-09. 03
CHATEAU JOUANIN, COTES DE CASTILLON -
(FRANCE BORDEAUX) Brilliant black fruit ripeness without a hint
of 03 sur-maturite. Fragrant berries and light wood spices. Fine
depth of aroma. Just right. And, delicious./ Dark, ripe berry fruit.
Suave, lovely, charming. In style and quality, reminiscent of the
fine 98 and 00. Maybe even better. Has it all. 16.2+. wt120705-10. 00
CHATEAU ROC DE GRIMON, COTES DE CASTILLON
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) A reductive introvert to start; perhaps still
upset by the voyage. A vigorous decanting gave it a chance to show
its true nature. Now, the fruit is thick, and there’s a nice hint
of bottle bouquet starting to develop. Aromas of plum, kola, cigar
box./ The palate is very spicy and flavorful. Very nice example
of an 00 Castillon, ripe and sassy. 16.3+. wt120705-11. 02
CHATEAU ESCURAC, CRU BOURGEOIS SUPERIEUR, MEDOC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Huge, grand-scaled, liqueur-like. Great oak
embellishments–very complex. Cigar-box airs. Dark, solid 02 fruit
core, deep and potent./ Full of both oak and fruit flavors and textures.
Solid 02 cabernet structure. A very ambitious and special Medoc.
Finally, in the latest classification, Medoc overachievers can aspire
to a rating higher than merely ‘Cru Bourgeois’. This one’s definitely
‘Superieur’. 17.1+. wt120705-12. 02
CHATEAU DE MAISON NEUVE, MONTAGNE SAINT EMILION
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Ripe and easy and generous Saint Emilion styling.
Spicy fruit gumdrops, flowers, and pencil box. Hints that it’s had
some time in oak./ Ripe, plump, suave, smooth, charming, and expressive
of merlot-rich Saint Emilion. Good full body of its appellation.
Saint Emilion class too. Very tasty now, with bouquet development
to come. 16.3+. wt120705-13. 03
CHATEAU MAYNE VIEIL, CUVEE ALIENOR, FRONSAC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Dark and deep and solid. Old vines fruit mass
and Fronsac dark powers. Lots of new-barrel oak vanillin and toasty-nutty
complex./ Fruit, fruit extract and oak spices all in spades. Definitely
a special cuvee. Very ambitious and long keeping. Commendable effort
in 03. 16.6++. wt120705-14. 03
CHATEAU TOUR SAINT BONNET, CRU BOURGEOIS, MEDOC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) The usual black cherry fruit and sweet fruit
pulp of LTSB. Plus red and black currants. Real claret class, subtlety,
composure./ Full of fruit feel and flavor. Intriguing floral range
fills the mouth. Ripe, racy, charming, graceful. Plenty of extract
and tannin grip at the finale. Good aging possibilities. 16.5+. wt120705-15. 04
VAUCLUSE, CULTURE DU SUD - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Ripe and solid, with a rustic charm. Woods and earth and fruit,
especially black currant./ Flavors of black, red, and white currants.
Fine depth. Has simple charms. 15.0. wt120705-16. 03
MINERVOIS MARIE CLAUDE, CHATEAU TOUR BOISEE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very ripe, rancio, strong. Solid, spicy,
earthy, exotic./ Sweet and port-like in flavor, but without the
fortified kick. Big, solid, serious, tannic. Black and red fruits,
fresh and dried. 15.2+.
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