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- December, 2004 |
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Wednesday, December 29, 2004 wt122904-01. CHANDON
RESERVE SONOMA-NAPA BLANC DE NOIR - (SPARKLING)
78% pinot noir, 14% meunier, 8% chardonnay - Pale bronze color.
Fine mousse./ Cherry pinot aroma of blanc de noir. Ripe, soft, dense.
Warm, developed yeast autolysis bottle bouquet./ Soft fruit (cherry,
mango) around a compact core. Good minerality and depth. 15.2. wt122904-02. 2000
LAETITIA ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY ROSE BRUT
- (SPARKLING) Full, direct, uncomplicated and appealing strawberry
fruit./ Nice mousse. Mild acidity. Pleasant. 15.0. wt122904-03. 2003
MORGON GRAND CRU GRAND CUVEE, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Very bright bing cherry and flowers. Eau de
vie depth and concentration. Juicy and generous. Wow!/ Bing and
maraschino flavors. Tres Morgon. Juicy acid. Nice dryness and fine
tannin. If Grand Cuvee implies some oak, it isn’t evident here.
This is all terroir. 16.2. wt122904-04. 1999
CHIANTI RISERVA, TERRA NOSTRA - (ITALY)
Roasted fruits and nuts. Tar-anise-port-fruitcake. Rich and dense,
with spicy overlays. Penetrating alcohol and acidity./ Very bright
acidity and fine dried fruits and sweet glycerol. Better acidity
than the 1997, and slightly less roasted. Will likely hold longer.
But there’s no need to age. 16.4. wt122904-05. 2001
BARBARESCO BRIC BALIN, MOCCAGATTA - (ITALY)
‘01 freshness. Violets and cassis; lots of Barbaresco verve. Solid,
intense, finely focused. Old-time dried fruits, flowers. Long in
seasoned barrels. Seasoned but not particularly oaky./ Grip of both
oak and fruit tannins. Great, port-like power, ripeness, roti. Huge
grip. Deep, rich, lasting, profound. Exceptionally hefty, bold,
ambitious, well-extracted Barbaresco, more aggressive than a model
Barbaresco at this stage but not without its innate grace. 18.0++. wt122904-06. 2000
BAROLO, AURELIO SETTIMO - (ITALY) Dried
fruit nose. Olive, mushroom, leather. Old style./ Sweet fruit and
oak. Has power and glycerol. A great mouthful of cask-mellowed Barolo.
Great depth and breeding. Great presence, smoldering core. Fine
tannin. Fully enjoyable at this stage. A bargain. Well liked by
the group. 17.7. wt122904-07. 2000
BAROLO RIVA, CLAUDIO ALARIO - (ITALY)
Completely different style. Much more oak: new oak, French oak.
Vanilla and brown spices such as mace and nutmeg. Kirsch and cocoa.
Dried fruits–both red and white!/ Sweet and smooth oak vanillin.
Fine-grained fruit and oak tannins. Plenty of fruit extract, ripe
and polished. Good, chewy mouthful. Very colorful. An ambitious,
modern, international-styled Barolo. Decidedly New Wave. 18.0+. wt122904-08. 2003
GOAT ROTI WESTERN CAPE RED - (SOUTH AFRICA)
Tutti-fruiti, juicy New World style. Sweet black fruits. A fresh
fruit bomb, really. Ease and appeal./ The acidity is generous. Sweet
and strong. Fresh blackberry flavor. Exuberant, eager. 15.6. wt122904-09. 2001
CHATEAU ST. JEAN SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Both American and French oak evident. Deep, ruddy, strong
St. Jean-Sonoma cabernet style. Luscious cassis and red and black
fruits./ Plump and easy fruit for cabernet. Plummy. On the aftertaste,
some fluidity, dryness, and heat. Fourth leading cabernet medal
winner on the circuit last year. However, I prefer the next three.
15.5. wt122904-10. 2001
BEAULIEU VINEYARD RUTHERFORD CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Deep, powerful, roasted Rutherford classic. Spells Rutherford,
screams Rutherford. Black fruit concentrate. Impressive tarriness.
Toasty oak./ Rich in fruit concentration and oak seasonings. Rich
and fine tannin. A real mouthful. Even better than the 1999. A bargain
at this price. 16.9. wt122904-11. 2001
ROBERT MONDAVI NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Intense and ripe for Mondavi. Really dense and concentrated.
But there’s Mondavi elegance and flair too, and sense of proportion.
Controlled, measured, stylish, in addition to its amplitude./ Again,
both the concentration and the Mondavi elegance. Great power, and
great finesse as well. Seamless. Best ‘regular’ Mondavi cabernet
ever? I can see Tanzer’s enthusiasm. 17.2+. wt122904-12. 2001
MOUNT VEEDER NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Mountain concentration, authority, and power. Great fruit
and oak clarity. Red and black fruits, woods, sur-bois, tobacco,
smoke, even some floral overtones. Distinctive; a wine of place
like the BV./ Chewy and fine tannins. Nutty, ripe, concentrated
mountain fruit. Great depth. A firm kernel, a molten core of sweet,
ripe fruit intensity. Good future. 17.1+.
Wednesday, December 22, 2004 wt122204-01. 1995
JEAN LAURENT BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) (Disgorged 9/04) - Very fresh and bright. Fresh-cut
apple slice and fluffy brioche. Great clarity and beauty. Wonderful
‘95 charm, harmony, precision./ Both fresh and full. Seductive,
complex, deep, and penetrating. Tangy chardonnay vibrancy. Impressively
precise and lovely blanc de blancs. Ideal for both vintage and category.
Tremendous, really. Will cellar well, but there’s no need to wait.
18.3+. wt122204-02. 1996
JEAN LAURENT BLANC DE NOIRS BRUT CHAMPAGNE
- (SPARKLING) (Disgorged 9/04) - Fuller. More red fruit, of course.
Ample and emphatic. Heavy-duty ‘96 and blanc de noirs style./ Very
full, thick, dense. Hard to swallow even. Wow! Clearly, these are
the greatest Jean Laurents I’ve ever tasted. Really gives you confidence
in this grower. This one will surely reward cellaring. 18.4++. wt122204-03. 2002
SHADY LANE LEELANAU PENINSULA VIGNOLES
- (U.S.) Much, much better than the sample a month or so ago. This
is more like the wine I judged a silver medal in July. Grassy. Hints
of apple, peach, flowers. Crisp, racy, fine./ Both rich and racy.
Very fine acidity and chewy constitution. A lovely, satisfying mealtime
wine. 15.7. wt122204-04. 2003
GOLAN SION CREEK GALILEE RED - (ISRAEL)
(Sangiovese, syrah, grenache, pinot noir, gamay) - Very bright red
fruits. Ripe, vibrant, generous. Touch of anise confirms the sangiovese
component. Pinot noir and gamay give freshness and lift./ Again,
crisp, juicy, flavorful. Nice, wholesome fruit clarity. Again, the
sangiovese anise and the pinot and gamay cool and northern demeanor.
Fine tannin. Shows panache. 15.8. wt122204-05. 2002
GOLAN GALILEE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ISRAEL)
Bell pepper and red and black currants. Some oak here; gives dill
and tobacco airs./ Stylish, fresh blackberry and wood spices. Cabernet
definition. Cabernet fullness. Good, chewy cabernet constitution.
15.8+. wt122204-06. 2001
NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VALMAGGIORE, G. GRIMALDI
- (ITALY) Tar and roses–the real deal. Intense. Good, full glycerol.
Great varietal clarity, definition. Woodsmoke, clove, and lavender
highlights./ Good body, richness, texture, extract, tannin–all fine-grained
and integrated. Full varietal extraction, rich and polished. One
of the ablest of its genre I’ve tasted. Surpasses NdA norms; this
could pass for Barolo/Barbaresco. So it’s a good value. Very well
liked by the group. 17.1+. wt122204-07. 2001
DOLOMITE TERRE DI PIETRA, LUNELLI - (ITALY)
Reduced, young, poised. But already clearly rich, thick, potent.
Dark and spicy fruit and fine, subtle oak. Toasted-oak and other
empyreumatic ranges of dried herbs-flowers-tobacco, tar, nuts, and
leather./ Finesse of a northern, high-altitude rosso. Plus concentration.
Right Bank claret suggestions. Good extract and fine tannin. Sturdier
even than the fine 2000. Good cellar candidate. 16.8+. wt122204-08. 1999
TOSCANA TINSCVIL, FATTORIA MONSANTO -
(ITALY) (70% sangioveto, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot) - Compact
dried dark fruits, tanning oils, and hint of mace. Sexy. Has that
Italianate plumminess, blackberries too, tobacco, style. A complete
wine, well dressed./ Sturdy dried fruits with leather oils and wood
spice. Promising richness. A few more years could make this wine
spectacular. 17.1+. wt122204-09. 1998
TOSCANA NEMO, FATTORIA MONSANTO - (ITALY)
(100% Cabernet Sauvignon) - Full oak toast. Mature fruit. Mushrooms,
dry leaves, leather./ Again, very toasty. Both oak and fruit tannins.
Good acid brace. Penetrating flavors. Class and complexity. Nicely
developed but still some tannin to shed. 16.5+. wt122204-10. 1995
TOSCANA SANGIOVESE SCANNI, FATTORIA MONSANTO
- (ITALY) Real sangiovese character. Dried cherry, currant, tobacco,
herbs, and flowers. Good oak in balance. Good bouquet development./
Again. Fine ‘95 framing and constitution. Chewy. Oak and oak tannin
more in evidence on the palate, but not dominant. Nicely developed
flavors. This invites food. 16.1. wt122204-11. 2003
BEAUMES DE VENISE COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES LA PARADOU, PAUL JABOULET - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Very bright apple-raspberry,
zinfandel-like fruit. Sweet, forward, fleshy, up-front charm. Fresh
and young, surprisingly cool for the vintage./ Juicy fruit flavors
confirm the style. On the palate, grenache, syrah, and garrigue
marks of dark strawberry and raspberry, black pepper, licorice,
and olive. Well packed and concentrated. Nicely poised to spread
out over the next couple of years, if one can resist drinking it
all before that. 16.3+. wt122204-12. 2001
VACQUEYRAS, DOMAINE LE COUROULU - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Quiet, reclusive. Good glycerol though. Simmering
beneath, plenty of garrigue, black pepper, and ripe black fruit./
Again, it’s playing it close to the vest in the early stages. Not
the first ‘01 to act that way. Juicy and poised. Old vines depth,
concentration, finesse, reserve, potential for complexity. Very
well balanced. Very fine tannin. Fills the palate and lingers long.
Give it a chance to develop its full aromatic profile (as a bottle
of the 1998 opened later in the evening surely has). 16.5+. wt122204-13. 2002
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE COONAWARRA SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) The coolness and finesse of 2002, of Coonawarra. The
richness and concentration of Wynns. Creamy black fruits (blackberry,
black cherry, plum). Fine./ Dark and dense, yet cool. Just right.
All you could want from this wine and vintage. Tells it all and
tells it clearly. Thanks to its balance, it’s useful right now.
What a deal! 16.2. wt122204-14. 2003
GOLAN GALILEE MOSCATO - (ISRAEL) Very
musky. Lightly spritzy. Could easily pass for a Moscato d’Asti.
Fresh, eager, and northern-like moscato aromas of pear, peach, apricot,
and orange./ Balanced, cool, medium sweet, good acidity and juiciness,
tingle, grip. Fine effort. 16.4.
Wednesday, December 15, 2004 wt121504-01. 2001
PINOT BLANC HERRENWEG, CHARLES SCHLERET
- (ALSACE) Good and full. Rich and creamy. Pear, peach, and wax.
Auxerrois facets. Very pure, great clarity, focus./ Rich and lanolined
texture cut by cool citrus juiciness. Both the fat and the cut.
Welcome dash of astringency at the finale. 16.1. wt121504-02. 2003
MONTEVINA AMADOR NEBBIOLO ROSATO - (U.S.)
Intense fruit aromas: cranberry, cherry, strawberry, kiwi. Sweet
and alluring nose./ Brisk, racy, tangy. Really great fruit acidity
and gentle sweetness. Fine balance of sweetness and acidity. Fresh
and very clear. The best of these I’ve tasted, and, the freshest.
15.6. wt121504-03. 2001
SANTENAY PASSETEMPS 1ER CRU, BERNARD MOREY
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fresh, uplifting tart fruit of ‘01. Nervy, spicy.
Bright tart cherry fruit and tea aromas. Toasty oak in the background./
More richness than the nose suggests. Great acidity. Juicy. Fine
structure, solidity, weight, generosity. Very fine-grained, clinging
tannins. Growth to go. 16.6+. wt121504-04. 2001
CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET VIEILLES VIGNES, BERNARD MOREY - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Blacker, riper fruit. More oak and
oak char. Sweeter fruit. Cherry creme Chassagne rouge nose. The
old vines intensity is evident./ More extract (old vines) and tannin.
Grace, refinement. Again, great acidity, juiciness of ‘01. This
will stand these wines well over time. 16.8+. wt121504-05. 2002
PERNAND VERGELESSES, LOUIS LATOUR - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Good pinot fruit. Dark cherry of northern Cote de Beaune.
The fruit is plump, bright, and sweet--and not processed, seemingly
not flash-eurized. Change here?/ Sweet fruit, vigorous and persistent.
And a suggestion of beetroot like great Burgundies of yore. Smooth
but not glossy. Nothing stunted by enforced house style. This expresses
varietal and terroir. A pleasant change. 16.4. wt121504-06. 2003
COTE DE NUITS VILLAGES, LOUIS LATOUR -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Firmer, blacker fruit. Definite move to Cote de
Nuits. Again, the fruit and terroir show, not a house style. Very
expressive fruit./ Great acidity. Lots of vigor. Very juicy. More
like an ‘01 than an ‘02 at this stage. Keep. 16.4+. wt121504-07. 2001
COTES DU ROUSSILLON, DOMAINE DU MAS CREMAT
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Brilliant ‘01 freshness. Spice, briar,
bramble, and sweet, wild black fruits. Meat too./ Full, sweet, perfumed,
racy. Peppercorn and garrigue flavors. Has it all. 16.3. Immensely
popular this evening. wt121504-08. 2001
BASILICATA VULCANO, ARS POETICA - (ITALY)
Ripe, rancio. Date, fig, tar, roast. Very powerful, black, dark,
deep, evil. Wood extracts too. Time brings out a angelic side: aromas
of plum, black cherry, flowers./ Less aggressive on the palate.
Nervy, racy. Still, strong, daunting, insistent. Massive presence.
Structured and serious. Throughout, good balance. Mr. Excitement!
Action-packed. Will age nicely. 16.3+.
Wednesday, December 8, 2004 wt120804-01. 2003
RIOJA BLANCO, RIOJA VEGA - (SPAIN) Titillates
the nostrils with pungent scents of apple, peach, white pepper,
and other spices. Attractively rustic./ Vinous flavor. Oily texture.
Good dryness and acidity. Euro styling. Good value. 15.0. wt120804-02. 2004
J&F LURTON VALLE DE UCO PINOT GRIS
- (ARGENTINA) True. Creamy, candle-waxy, dry. I would liken it to
Alsace more than any other pinot gris origin./ Good variety character;
apple, melon, wax, nut. Charm, plumpness, plenty of fruit. Delicious
value. 15.7. wt120804-03. 2003
RIOJA ROSADO, RIOJA VEGA - (SPAIN) Fresh
red fruit. Strawberry, watermelon. Very bright. Quite powerful,
penetrating./ Good acidity. Brisk and refreshing, with a positive
dash of bitterness on the finish. Would be attractive with food.
15.8. wt120804-04. 2002
J&F LURTON ESTATE VALLE DE UCO BONARDA
- (ARGENTINA) Good dark fruit and peel. Plum, cranberry, blackberry.
Astringent and vigorous as well as sweet. Claret like./ Juicy and
tart-cherry and herb flavored like a petit Right Bank claret. Empyreumatic
flavors of smoked meat and leather. Good value. I really would have
taken this for a small claret blind. 15.6. wt120804-05. 2002
RIOJA, RIOJA VEGA - (SPAIN) Fresh, warm,
spicy, nervy, inviting. Good tempranillo delivery, oak-seasoned./
Fresh and soft approach, good acidity on the aftertaste. Juicy,
racy red fruit. 15.3.. wt120804-06. 2000
RIOJA CRIANZA TEMPRANILLO, HERENCIA LASANTA
- (SPAIN) Big, pungent, smoky black fruits and green olives. Well-charred
American oak, with coconut, milk chocolate, and dill extras. Full,
with youthful gutsiness./ Deep and solid. Generous delivery. Ripe
oak and fruit tannins polished fine. Well balanced. Youthful still.
16.1+. wt120804-07. 2003
CHATEAU HAUT FOURAT, BORDEAUX - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Sweet red currants and herbs. ‘03 and merlot softness,
ripeness, sweetness, and power./ The ripeness this vintage gives
a New World aura to a modest Right Bank claret. Lean lines restore
the Bordeaux birthright. 14.8. wt120804-08. 2001
CHATEAU SOUVERAIN ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Firm, smoky, toasty oak char and spicy black
currant fruit that are marks of Souverain cabernets. Sleek ‘01 styling./
Good oak spices. Medium bodied. Decent structure and depth. Smooth.
Ripe fruit acidity. Medium tannins. Oak dominates the aftertaste.
Needs time to soak up the oak. 16.0+. wt120804-09. 2003
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES CHATEAU VARENNES, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Full. Intense banana, cherry, berry,
flowers, and spices. Plump and juicy. Lots of richness and concentration
here for the Villages level. ‘03 largesse./ Rich again, luscious.
Some vanillin even. Good acidity too. Very full for the appellation.
Large-scaled. 16.1. wt120804-10. 2003
BROUILLY GRAND CUVEE, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) A beauty. Lovely apple-raspberry quality of
many a fine Brouilly, pure and precise. This really is textbook
Brouilly. Beautiful Brouilly./ Again, the clarity, the precision.
Commendable. Tannin even. So worth keeping some. What a vintage!
16.4+. wt120804-11. 2003
COTES DE BROUILLY GRAND CRU, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Shows more levity, more uplifting qualities
of a higher-altitude appellation. Great lilt, nerve. Again, defines
its appellation./ Sweet and spicy in ‘03. Balanced. All fits together
just right. Great acidity and fine tannin. 16.3+. wt120804-12. 2003
FLEURIE GRAND CRU LA MADONE, GEORGES DUBOEUF
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Violets, plums, perfumes, depth, Fleurie class.
/ So smooth a texture. Regal (Queen) bearing. Great finesse. No
La Madone heat. This is a very warm section of Fleurie, and I would
have thought that might be exaggerated in 2003. But no. This is
classic Fleurie in the best sense. 16.6. (Rod rated this wine 18/20.) wt120804-13. 2003
FLEURIE GRAND CRU CHATEAU DE GRAND PRE, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Floral, perfumed, sweet, ethereal.
Fleurie all the way. Fruit ripeness gives impressions of maraschino,
candied cherry, and nuts./ Lightness of touch of Fleurie, but also
richness and depth. Classic. A memorable Fleurie and the best Grand
Pre ever. 16.9. wt120804-14. 2003
FLEURIE GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES QUATRE VENTS, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Sweet, nutty, dried fruit, strong,
rich. Dense. Some oak here, or is it the sunburnt grape peels that
gives a woody impression? / Big, burly, strong, direct. Deep, complete.
Youthful grip. 16.4+. wt120804-15. 2003
MOULIN A VENT GRAND CRU OAK-AGED, GEORGES DUBOEUF - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Wood on top, prominent and lovely.
Clear power and density to the black cherry fruit underneath. Vanilla./
Oak and substance. Has the material to soak up the oak eventually.
Paul Bunyan Beaujolais. 16.3++. wt120804-16. 2003
WALLACE BROOK WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Light and lively. The fruit is ripe. Dill, tea, and cherry./
Pleasant fruit, with some dill seasoning from American oak. Simple
pleasures of a second wine (of Adelsheim). 14.8. wt120804-17. 2002
MERCUREY RESERVE CUVEE DU CHATEAU, CHATEAU GENOT-BOULANGER - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Cherry and iodine. Some oak, and
red and black licorice./ Medium bodied. Cherry gummies and medicine.
Within the parameters of Mercurey rouge but clearly singular. 15.7+. wt120804-18. 2002
MONTHELIE, DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Lovely, concentrated core and grip. Lovely ‘dusty’ cherry
character of Monthelie. A textbook Monthelie, and a wine of perfect
poise and confidence./ Fine oak and fruit in tandem. Vibrant, racy,
high strung pinot noir that is Monthelie. Acid, grip, fine tannin,
potential. Stylish and well-delineated. Real Monthelie. 16.5+.
Wednesday, December 1, 2004 wt120104-01. 2003
IRPINIA FALANGHINA, TERREDORA - (ITALY)
Rich lemon custard nose. Lots of extract: minerals, peels. Crisp,
stony, floral, sleek, attractive. Dry and lightly fragrant, like
a Pfalz trocken./ Full and firm. Crisp, minerally. Well-textured.
Good acidity. Balanced. Fine. 16.8. wt120104-02. 2003
RUEDA VERDEJO, BLANCO NIEVA - (SPAIN)
Fresh and fragrant. Cool peach and apricot. Subtle, subdued, but
clearly lush underneath. With airing, becomes tropical, generous.
Fills the nostrils with aromatics./ Cool apple and peach flavors.
Juicy, creamy. Good strength in support. Good bitter trace at finale.
16.0 wt120104-03. 2003
RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO, LAXAS - (SPAIN)
Really piercing citrus and mineral aromas. Palpable–tingles the
nostrils like cracked pepper. Sweet tangerine and flower nectar
airs.Tensile minerality./ Fat, rich fruit, with great acid cut and
extract feel. Generous fruit and flower exotica. Mineral verve.
Sturdy carriage. Grip and length. Best Laxas vintage yet. 16.4. wt120104-04. 2003
NAVARRA GARNACHA ROSE, OCHOA - (SPAIN)
Sweet strawberry grenache nose. Very plump in ‘03./ Good juiciness.
Good sweet-acid balance. Full for rose, almost a light red wine.
Good power. Take it to the dinner table. No fear of red meats, cold
weather. 15.9. wt120104-05. 2003
CHIANTI CA DEL VISPO, LE VIGNE - (ITALY)
Nice combo of freshness-briskness of a young Chianti with the glycerin
richness of a fine, ripe vintage. Both fresh and dried cherries.
Anise note. Ripe, generous, rewarding./ Mild, mellow, light-hearted.
Easy present appeal. Again, there’s good, cool fruit acidity as
well as rich, ripe and dried fruit. There’s no denying its balance
and allure. 16.0. wt120104-06. 2001
CHIANTI RUFINA RISERVA, RENZO MASI - (ITALY)
Fresh, uplifting, reconstituted dried cherry and citrus peel. Sweet
as a nut, with nice oak-caramel overtone. Cool, smooth, penetrating./
Rich dried cherry and berry flavor. Attractive metallic ring. Cool,
wet stones too. Great acidity. Impressive stuffing, depth, and length.
Great charm and balance. Best vintage yet here. 16.4. wt120104-07. 2001
CHIANTI CLASSICO, CASTELLO DI MELETO -
(ITALY) Sweet and oaky. Ripe fruit and vanilla. Fine aromatic complex:
blackberry, violets, chocolate, licorice, smoked meat. Modern, for
sure, but there’s still a sense of place. Modern but not international.
Striking richness, class, elegance. Good Chianti acidity. The oak
is pleasant, nicely applied./ Sweet and oaky. Solid, bold, nervy,
spicy. Smooth glycerin coating that’s a mark of good ripeness here.
Layered complex of fine fruit, flower, and oak warm-spice flavors.
A lot of oak finesse. 16.7+. wt120104-08. 2003
IRPINIA AGLIANICO, TERREDORA - (ITALY)
Deep and fine and floral fruit. Tea, incense. Noble varietal, aptly
handled. Light oak vanilla seasoning. Great class and finesse. Great
purity./ Sweet and floral. Cool and elegant. Great texture, fine
tannin. A fine wine. I’m impressed with this winery. 16.7. wt120104-09. 2001
AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE IL VIOLA, TENUTA LA QUERCE - (ITALY) Baked black fruits. Lots of glycerin. Dried
orange peel, anise, tar and fresh flowers. Lively, vibrant. Sweet
and smooth. Good depth evident on the nose. With airing comes additional
complexity and depth. Fruit-and-nut bar, chocolate. Wow! / Great
grip and vigor. Fine tannin, texture. Toothsome fatness of fruit,
fullness of flavor. Tremendous range, depth, complexity. Long and
important. Great future. A fine source. 16.9+. wt120104-10. 2002
NAVARRA GARNACHA-TEMPRANILLO, OCHOA -
(SPAIN) Cool and northern. Smells of white fruits as well as red.
Apple, melon, tart cherry./ Sweet and viscous. Nice fruit plumpness,
sweetness, ease, ready appeal. 15.5. wt120104-11. 2002
VALDEPENAS TEMPRANILLO, AGORA - (SPAIN)
Sweet, glossy, southern fruit statement: fruitcake, citron, zest.
Dense and subdued tempranillo blackberry, briar. Nice delineation./
Sweet. White fruits as well as red. Flows easily. Fine tannin. Long,
lingering presence. Good buy. 15.3. wt120104-12. 1999
DOURO, FEIST - (PORTUGAL) Cool, smooth
black currant fruit (touriga nacional?) with palpable granite-sourced
zestiness. Hints of flowers, tobacco, fennel. Time in seasoned barrels.
Nice, complex, appealing nose./ Big, and very flavorful and smooth.
Vibrant cassis is the main theme. Delicious now, and has potential
for more complexity with 1-2 years’ aging. A fine value. I like
it better than the ‘98 in its later stages. 16.3. wt120104-13. 1998
VALENCIA RESERVA, AZALEA - (SPAIN) The
usual sweet, stewed fruit appeal here. There’s some oak soaked into
the whole too./ Again, sweet and sassy. Thick, creamy, old-time,
generous. All it’s intended to be. Fresher than the ‘96 at the same
age. Fine acid, tannin. 15.8. wt120104-14. 1998
NAVARRA RESERVA, OCHOA - (SPAIN) Red rust
color./ Softened, mellowed, broadened, and complexed by long time
in oak. Smokehouse and dill aromas charred American oak. Sweet,
dried fruit and tangy citrus rind. Floral lilt. Lovely stage./ Barrel-mellowed
flavor and texture. Sweet and soft. Ready. 16.4. wt120104-15. 1996
NAVARRA GRAN RESERVA, OCHOA - (SPAIN)
Deeper in both color and bouquet. More mass here, more material.
Gigantic, really. Sweet fruit and oak. Olive, tobacco, fennel, black
fruits, spices. Fabulous bouquet./ Sweet and lovely bouquet and
flavor development. Thick with glycerin. Fine, fine acidity too.
Both freshness and savor. First class gran reserva. 17.0. wt120104-16. 1995
RIOJA RESERVA, MIGUEL MERINO - (SPAIN)
Powerful, dramatic, commanding. Deep and solid; still a firm core.
With airing emerges a pretty plum, tobacco, coconut, roasted fruits,
and vanilla complex./ Deep and well-structured. Lovely acidity.
Real panache. Lots to offer now if decanted and aired. Several years’
growth potential too. 17.0+. wt120104-17. 1998
RIBERA DEL DUERO CRIANZA, SENORIO DE NAVA
- (SPAIN) Lovely, rich, sweet fruit and great youthful form. Perfect
poise. Great oak spices totally interwoven with the fruit aromas.
This wine is so well composed, so confident of itself, that it needn’t
demand attention, so you hardly notice it’s there. The feeling that
it has a wonderful future kind of sneaks up on you./ Again, smooth,
balanced, poised, composed. And significant. Port-like fruit intensity,
multi-strata depth. Great future. It’s rare to get a crianza of
this DO at such a reasonable price. And such an ageworthy wine to
boot. 16.8+.
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