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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- August, 2007
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Wednesday, August 29, 2007 WT082907-01. 05 MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, ANDRE-MICHEL BREGEON - (FRANCE LOIRE) Sleek perfume, leesy, grainy. Yellow fruits. Stone./ Bright, tangy, lemony. Stony base. Good, tensile fruit acidity. Very vivid, nervy, classic. 16.0. WT082907-02. 06 ROBERT MONDAVI WOODBRIDGE CALIFORNIA SAUVIGNON BLANC - (U.S.) Fresh and sweet pear-peach California sauvignon ripeness and style. Nervy, zesty lemon-lime, grass, and gooseberry too. Very bright nose./ Crunchy gooseberry and lemon-lime flavors followed by the sweet, ripe white fruit impressions of the nose that give it roundness, softness. Pleasant and appealing. 15.4. WT082907-03. 06 MCMANIS FAMILY RIVER JUNCTION PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.) Good and juicy. Apple, lentil, and nut. Blind, I would have guessed a NE Italy pinot grigio. A dab of sweet honey suggests a milder growing region./ Good and brisk acidity of a NE Italy pinot grigio. Very good knockoff, and quite a surprise from River Junction, a Lodi-like microclimate. As they say in Italian: Bravo! 16.0. WT082907-04. 06 VENEZIE MASIANCO, MASI - (ITALY) 75% pinot grigio, 25% verduzzo. Pinot grigio nut-cream basis. Verduzzo introduces some unusual notes I do not remember in the 05: cool menthol and flowers. Neat./ Lemon marmalade flavor. Nut, stone, basil notes too. Good depth. Somewhat reticent yet; will improve over the coming months. 15.5+. WT082907-05. 06 SARDEGNA VERMENTINO COSTAMOLINO, ARGIOLAS - (ITALY) Peach and flowers. Peach pie warmth. One taster said peach cobbler. A perfectly lovely definition of Sardinian vermentino./ Bright and tangy, with peach, passion fruit, and orange zest flavors. Flower and stone accents. Good peach-peel astringency adds vigor and a tonic effect. Long, refreshing, astringent aftertaste. Good now. 16.5. WT082907-06. 06 COTES DU RHONE ROSE CUVEE DES CAPUCINES, DOMAINE DU VIEUX CHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bright and lively melon, red fruits, and lipstick aromas. Very sleek./ Tight and young still. Nice strawberry and cherry fruit. Full flavored, nervy, penetrating. 16.0. WT082907-07. 06 MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER RIESLING DR. L, ERNST LOOSEN - (GERMANY) Open-hearted and rich, with lots of walnut husk, slate-born character. Fragrant and stylish. Full, and quite accessible already. Was an early harvest./ Good and cool peach, yellow berry, and citrus fruit and peel flavors. The walnut husk again. Intense, crunchy, and long. Good now. 16.3. WT082907-08. 06 MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER RIESLING SOMMERPALAIS, VON KESSELSTATT - (GERMANY) Apple, peach, and stone. Brisk citrus peel framing./ Palate shows all the facets of the nose in greater clarity. Racy, well extracted. Bright, pungent, well structured. Good grip and acidity. Really quite dry. A good dinner riesling. 16.0+. WT082907-09. 06 BERNKASTELER KURFURSTLAY RIESLING SPATLESE, J&H SELBACH - (GERMANY) Fabulous Bernkasteler statement despite being from a sizeable grosslage. The slate walnut husk ID, the green grape Bernkasteler ID. Flowers and stone fruits. Totally vigorous and complex./ Coated acidity of a young spatlese. No problem. Generous, zesty citrus, peach, and apple flavors. Cedar highlight. It’s young and well poised. A nice value. 16.4+. WT082907-10. 05 NIERSTEINER ORBEL RIESLING SPATLESE, EUGEN WEHRHEIM - (GERMANY) Oh! Nice edelfirne nose already. Flowers, asphalt, and anise rather than diesel. Plenty of fruit (tangerine) and spice (clove)./ Full, rich, and handsome tangerine and melon flavors. Good southern strength. Good acidity to balance its sassy spatlese sweetness. Distinguished. And delicious. 16.8+. WT082907-11. 04 BERGERAC, CHATEAU HAUT PERTHUS - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Rich licorice and ripe raspberry aromas. Plum, tobacco, oolong tea, and and allspice extras. Cool 04 approach, with now-fulfilled fruit perfume. Big and strong for Bergerac./ Lively and charming red raspberry flavor. Tart and juicy 04 styling. Fine value. 16.0+. WT082907-12. 05 SOLTERRA RESERVE CASABLANCA VALLEY CARMENERE - (CHILE) Heavy black fruit and leather aromas of carmenere. Strong, warm, ripe./ The palate has more lift. Red and black cherries and aromatic tobacco–all carmenere attributes. Fine tannins. 15.5. WT082907-13. 05 LIBERTY SCHOOL PASO ROBLES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Lovely 05 character. Really cools off the Paso Robles ‘sur maturite’ and gives the wine more framework. Paso warmth and strength not fully denied though. Currant and licorice snappiness. Sensible measure of oak seasoning. Cedar highlight./ Sweet Paso fruit with great 05 acidity and framing. Good ager as well as rangy dinner cabernet. 16.1+. WT082907-14. 06 CRIOS DE SUSANA BALBO MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Wow! Alert, penetrating, insistent. Cherry, mint, liqueur-like sweetness and spirit./ Nice balance of sweet fruit and good, cool acidity. Black cherry, cranberry, dark chocolate, nut, and spice elements. Good form and depth. Polished presentation. 16.0+. WT082907-15. 04 CAHORS, DOMAINE CROIX DU MAYNE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) 85% malbec, 15% merlot. Silver Medal. Rich cherry and tar Cahors malbec. Lush and variegated, well textured./ Firm-cored but broad overall. Good tobacco and leather notes. Fills and grips the palate. Very lively, high-toned finale. 16.3+. WT082907-16. 04 TORGIANO RUBESCO, LUNGAROTTI - (ITALY) 70% sangiovese, 30% canaiolo. Sweet and smooth apple-cranberry aroma. Is that canaiolo speaking? Certainly doesn’t talk like Tuscan sangiovese./ Sweet and strong and generous. Round, spicy plum and blackberry flavors, with a trace of white pepper. More aromatic and textural fulfillment to come. 15.5+. WT082907-17. 05 RENWOOD SIERRA FOOTHILLS ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Good, bright, and intense black raspberry, briar, and tea. Full alcohol and glycerol, and Amador warmth. Quite a treat./ Yes, the viscosity, the power, the grip, the succulence. Good acidity too. Very expressive. Food-worthy all the way. A lot of zinfandel for the money. 16.1+. Wednesday, August 22, 2007
WT082207-01. 06 COTES DE GASCOGNE, DOMAINE DES CASSAGNOLES - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Fresh, with a very active citricity, especially lime. Piquant, perky, bright, tangy, racy./ Yes, like the 06 white Bordeaux wines, the acidity is livelier than in the 05s. This is about as crunchy and citric a Gascogne blanc as I’ve had. Not without Gascogne blanc’s engaging tenderness though. Very popular with the group. 16.0 WT082207-02. 07 SANTA RITA 120 LONTUE SAUVIGNON BLANC - (CHILE) Whoa! Nice gooseberry and cat race, burnish, tingle. Sweet lemon peel edge./ Grass and grapefruit. Flavorful, sweettart (like a lemon drop), delightful. As good as it gets at this price. 16.4. WT082207-03. 06 CARNUNTUM GRUNER VELTLINER, GLATZER - (AUSTRIA) Reductive still. Some sulphur to blow off, wear off. Underneath, there’s legumes and okra./ Flavorful, exotic, racy, lively. Fine depth. Air and age to get Glatzer’s classic take on gru-ve. 15.6+. WT082207-04. 05 KAMPTAL GRUNER VELTLINER VELTLINER 1, HIRSCH - (AUSTRIA) Deep apple and pea pod aromas. Etched, sleek, subtle, elegant, and lovely. Settled in nicely at this age./ Plush and racy both. Vivid, brittle, mouthwatering fruit acidity. Certainly well crafted. Fine texture. 16.4. WT082207-05. 06 FETZER VALLEY OAKS CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Racy, ripe citrus nose. No oak to speak of. This was one of the original no-oak chardonnays and very popular for it. Then they screwed it up with oak for awhile. Now it seems to have reverted to the good old style./ Ripe, with enough racy acid to compensate. Good, crisp finish. 15.6. WT082207-06. 05 TWO TONE FARM CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Nicely opened out, developed. Some oak here, smoky, toasty, handsome. Some of the old cow piss nose of an old-time, mature, wooded California chardonnay. Full./ Oak imparts sweet caramel and warm-spice flavors. Good and strong and generous. Structure and depth. Good acidity too. This has a lot to say. It’s coming into its best form. Could spruce up many a
meal. 16.0. WT082207-07. 06 COTES DU RHONE LA DAME ROUSSE ROSE, DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, cool, spiritous, sweetly and intensely fruity. Red fruits and berries, especially cranberry, raspberry, and watermelon./ Yes, all the attributes echo on the palate. Strong, full, assertive, balanced, polished. Indeed, complete. Full impact; yields little to Tavel,, so it’s a good value. 16.9. WT082207-08. 05 PELEE ISLAND WINERY ONTARIO CABERNET FRANC - (CANADA) Sweet, ripe raspberry fruit, cooly stated. True, northern grown cabernet franc classic with more ripeness than usual. Admirably ripe; no green bean tones to it at all. Cab franc stylishness; this is no cabernet sauvignon bully. Nice light vanilla frosting too./ Smooth, rich, fruity, flavorful. Ripe, charming black and red raspberries. Great acidity.
Nice oak dusting. Nice fruit sweetness. Balanced. Juicy. One of the world’s greatest cabernet franc values? I can see the Tasters Guild double gold medal for its price-quality ratio. 16.2. WT082207-09. 05 GOATS DO ROAM BORED DOE COASTAL REGION RED - (SOUTH AFRICA) Good, deep, ripe fruit with Graves-like earth, tobacco, and animal./ Again, an animal quality I can enjoy. More cow than horse. Like the 04, this somewhat emulates Graves and makes a respectable value. Good claret-like acidity. 15.5. WT082207-10. 05 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, ALLEGRINI - (ITALY) Lively, generous black fruit aromas, including black cherry, cherry cola, and raspberry jam. Very nice floral flairs, with spicy extras. Sweet fruit, with a Smith Bros. cough drop licorice ventilation effect./ Good texture and flow of Valpolicella, one of the world’s best ‘medium-bodied’ wines. Deep-penetrating flavors. Great acidity as usual from Allegrini.
Exemplary Valpolicella Classico, and one of Allegrini’s best ever. 16.3+. WT082207-11. 05 DOLCETTO D’ALBA COLOMBE, RENATO RATTI - (ITALY) Big and forward cherry and red berries. Bright, floral, spicy overtones./ Bright and generous, with good acid carriage. Some tightness yet at the core. Well structured. This will definitely improve with time. 16.3+. WT082207-12. 04 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, RUBIRO - (ITALY) Sweet, ripe blackberry jam. Shows 04 darkness./ Sweet and exotic, with Abruzzo roasted fruit, spicy warmth. Juicy, with bright acid vibrance of montepulciano too. 15.8. WT082207-13. 03 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, ZACCAGNINI - (ITALY) Sweet and right. Ripe but not roasted. Sleek, sophisticated, saturated./ Yes, just the right degree of ripeness, sweetness. Lively, with fine depth, body, balance, and fine tannins. Red and black currants, licorice, tobacco, dark chocolate. Well crafted, enticing, delicious. 16.5. WT082207-14. 03 RIOJA RESERVA GLORIOSO, BODEGAS PALACIO & HERMANOS - (SPAIN) Lots of mature, developed, burnished black fruits with anise strains. American oak looms large, showing char, vanilla, and dill./ Generous, nicely developed, spicy oak and fruit flavors. Soft and smooth, with good acidity. Surprisingly, it’s more advanced than the 03 crianza. A typical bottle? 15.5. WT082207-15. 06 SANTA JULIA RESERVA MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Young, tough, tannic. Lots of 06 peels extract, brace, firmness, dryness. Malbec black./ Very dry. Full grip. Great acidity. Like 02, this vintage’s wines will reward aging. We’re tasting this 9 months younger than the 05. It needs at least that much time to become accessible and rewarding. 15.6++. WT082207-16. 04 LOUIS MARTINI SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Ripe and racy, generous 04 fruit attributes. Fine oak too–nothing coarse or aggressive or domineering about the oak embellishments. Cedar highlight./ Yes, that 04 sweet and sassy fruit combo. Love this vintage’s North Coast reds! Wonderful fruit acidity. Sonoma cabernet warmth, smoky depth. A super value. 16.8. WT082207-17. 05 FOLIE A DEUX NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Sweet, caramelly oak and good power–both Folie a Deux cabernet attributes. Dark, compact fruit of 05 reins this in nicely. Solid, handsome, smoky black fruits. Confident bearing./ Yes, fine, spicy oak that’s not excessive. And great acidity of 05. Demonstrative as usual, but well managed thanks to the vintage style, and definitely a meal wine rather
than a show wine. 17.0+. WT082207-18. 04 CROZES HERMITAGE LES JALETS, PAUL JABOULET - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh! Lovely 04 cool, crackly fruit. Very black and snappy raspberry and bramble northern Rhone syrah./ Yes, racy black raspberry, black peppercorn, game, and flowers flavors rarely found in syrahs from outside this region. Admirable cool-vintage statements. As good in its own vintage style as the 03. This cuvee has really improved the
last two vintages. 16.6+. Wednesday, August 15, 2007 WT081507-01. VEUVE DE VERNAY BRUT - (SPARKLING) Made in the Bordeaux area, from what grape varieties I do not know. Smooth, creamy, vanilla-like aroma (semillon?) that seems slightly wood-tinged, though I doubt wood is a factor in this wine./ Some fruit on the palate (pear), but mainly vinosity. Straightforward. This used to have more fruit and livelier acidity. 14.0. WT081507-02. 05 CLOUDLINE OREGON PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) Good waxy-appley pinot gris with Oregon lilt. Citrus and stone fruits, and flowers. Hazelnut too./ Quite full and strong. A lot of textural presence in the mouth. Leans toward the more austere, Euro styling, so it hasn’t a lot of allure for drinking alone. Needs food. 16.0. WT081507-03. 06 RODNEY STRONG SONOMA CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Marked wood presence. Needs time for the oak to settle in. Crisp, high acid nose./ Oh, boy, the oak is really in command. There’s a good measure of fruit-juicy-good, bubble-gum-like flavors pushing up from underneath though. And the palate confirms the wine’s racy fruit acidity. This is going to need a few months to achieve oak-fruit harmony. 15.0++. WT081507-04. 06 NAVARRA GARNACHA OLD VINES ROSE, RED GUITAR - (SPAIN) Very alluring, beguiling, charming, and singular rose nose. Plenty of peels grip assuaged by fruit sweetness. Grenache all the way–full strawberry expression./ Ripe acidity and a touch of residual sweetness form an attractive balance. Easy drinkin’ and useful. A rose that gives and gives. 15.9. WT081507-05. 06 MERIDIAN CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Accurate pinot aroma, fresh. Some peels-extract edge. California appellation (had to happen sooner or later), but still coastal in character../ Soft and sweetish on entry, in a New World pinot manner. Good acidity and grip chime in. Fine flavor depth and persistence. Rich pinot taste. Bravo! Kudos to the winemaker for producing what must be a huge quantity of pinot
that’s nonetheless impressively accurate and attractive. 16.1. WT081507-06. 05 LA MANCHA SHIRAZ, ROJO MOJO - (SPAIN) Warm, generous, wholesome, modern, right./ Sweet, warm, and fruity. Well priced and very useful. La Mancha is to Spain what the Central Valley is to California. The jug zone. For the DO, the quality here is admirable, the generosity unmistakable. Shows what modern winemaking can do. A well-crafted, distinctively Euro wine for everyday consumption. 15.8. WT081507-07. 03 RIOJA CRIANZA GLORIOSO, BODEGAS PALACIO Y HERMANOS - (SPAIN) Lovely. The ripeness of 03 is so totally flattering. No excess power, roast, heat. All beauty. Lovely vanilla and spice oak extras to season the perfect crianza fruit presentation./ Flavors of wood smoke and baking spices (especially clove). Yes, the ideal crianza balance of fruit and oak. Plenty of range and depth. Nicely polished. Good now,
good later. 16.4+. WT081507-08. 04 JUMILLA ALTOS DE LUZON, FINCA LUZON - (SPAIN) Lovely soft oak overlay to sweet raspberry and seeds fruit purity. Black and beautiful./ Just perfect harmony of fruit and oak, acid and sweet. And the quality, complexity, and definition of both fruit and oak is superb. Smooth and flavorful–what more could you want?! Long and lovely aftertaste. The complete package. Best Luzon wine ever. 16.9. WT081507-09. 04 SARDON DE DUERO RIVOLA, ABADIA RETUERTA - (SPAIN) There’s still some reduction here, which is common in young Retuerta wines. And wood, which is also common. Reserved for now. Just a little blackberry pie-like sweet fruitiness peeks through./ The palate is more revealing, as is often the case with reduced wines. Shows more aromatic intensity and dimension. Nicely burnished fruit and oak. Touch of brett.
Good acid, fine tannin. Air and age. 15.3++. WT081507-10. 05 MAREMMA POGGIO AL TUFO ROMPICOLO, TOMMASI - (ITALY) 60% sangiovese, 40% cabernet. Warm, ripe, singed. Candied and cooked fruits./ Cooler on the palate; compact and dense, with a touch of loganberry. Good form. Not a lot of flavor expression yet, but seems to have ambitions. 15.3+. WT081507-11. 05 LOS VASCOS COLCHAGUA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Oh, this is neat, unique. A ‘sour’ form of reduction without the usual sulphur compounds identifiable. Nutty too. Needs air and age./ Palate confirms. Tight, withdrawn. Air and age should produce a winner. 15.5++. WT081507-12. 05 RUTHERFORD RANCH NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Sweet fruit, nutty-woody-toasty oak. Cassis, blackberry, and vanilla. Forward and friendly. Shows a soft, mellow side, and a lively side as well. Keenly fashioned./ Modern, international, and fully worthy of its Napa Valley appellation. Has all the bells and whistles, which is not common at this price. My compliments to the winemaker, who surely
has his finger on the market’s pulse. 16.4. WT081507-13. 05 JACOB’S CREEK SE AUSTRALIA SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA) Lovely dark and spicy shiraz with a bitter chocolate note. Betrays some Riverlands warmth, but it’s well regulated./ Warm and smooth, showing good levels of acid, tannin, and alcohol in the proper proportions. Flavorful and balanced. A wine with broad appeal. Good value. 15.8. WT081507-14. 04 MONTEVINA AMADOR SYRAH - (U.S.) Sweet and spicy oak. Full Amador power. Dense and dark syrah fruit. Really delivers for the price./ Oh! What’s this?! Some northern Rhone-like varietal character in a California syrah?! Yes, it’s the lavender airs so rarely exhibited by this genre. Gives a nice lift. Fine oak and power. Loaded with fruit. A grand value. Better than the 02 and 03. 16.2+. WT081507-15. 02 ALDERBROOK OLD VINE DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) The cool beauties of southern Dry Creek Valley zinfandel. Well composed. Super oak-fruit balance. Lovely DCV raspberry-seed-bramble set./ Smooth, accomplished, gracefully well developed. The raspberry set echoes on the palate. And the sweet and sassy, vanilla-laced oak. A treat for current enjoyment. And a nice surprise to find a vigorous 02 still
on the market. 16.9. WT081507-16. 06 MCMANIS FAMILY RIVER JUNCTION PETITE SIRAH - (U.S.) Open, ripe, soft fruit speaks East Bay. Nice, light oak dusting adds a measure of sophistication./ Sweet, smooth inland texture. In addition, there are Coastal-Bay snap, acidity, and darkness elements that represent its relatively-cool River Junction appellation. Yes, the acidity is fine. Good varietal heft. An innocent babe yet. Will gain sagacity
with a few months’ bottle age. 15.3+.
Wednesday, August 8, 2007 WT080807-01. 06 DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO, MEZZACORONA - (ITALY) Fresh, crisp, vinous. Perky and penetrating, with bitter citrus peel cut./ Crisp and lively, with more grigio padding on palate than was evident on the nose. Vigorous high altitude white with good acidity. Refreshing citrus edge on the finish. Would make a mealtime regular. 15.6. WT080807-02. 06 NAVARRA VIURA-CHARDONNAY VEGA SINDOA, BODEGAS NEKEAS - (SPAIN) 75-25. I used to think viura had a pretty neutral varietal profile. I guess from former white Riojas, which were almost entirely from viura. This one, though, has definite white and tropical fruit scents that aren’t coming from the chardonnay component. Witnessed the same viura display in a Rueda recently./ Again, the ripe white fruit delights,
along with chardonnay body, filling, grip. Well crafted combo. 15.8. WT080807-03. 06 CHATEAU DUCASSE, BORDEAUX BLANC - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Restrained in youth still. Cool, dried-flower aromatics and subdued sauvignon grassiness./ Plump semillon features. Light sauvignon airs and cut. Young and semillon-fat. Solid, reserved, well-stated. Nice depth. Good now, but will be better after it’s had time to spread its wings. 16.1+. WT080807-04. 05 SANCERRE VIEILLES VIGNES, PATIENT COTTAT - (FRANCE LOIRE) Dense and husky, with ripe, old-vines honey and orange strains. Good cut; tingles and etches the nostrils./ Full and chewy, with plenty of citricity and a good stony base. 16.2. WT080807-05. 06 GAVI DI GAVI LA MEIRANA, BROGLIA - (ITALY) Tingly acidity. Broad range of scents, including sage, flowers, damp earth. Full./ Soft entry. Plump, ripe, fleshy, sweet fruits that really turn up the volume. Pretty floral overtones. Needs time for the acidity to emerge on the palate. 16.4+. WT080807-06. 06 RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO, MARTIN CODAX - (SPAIN) Fresh, vigorous, nicely scented. Flowers, ripe yellow and tropical fruits. Racy, tingly acidity./ Good acid grip on the palate too. And plenty of flavor. Echoes the attributes of the nose and adds an exotic sandalwood flair. Perfectly composed, balanced. Great with food. 16.3. WT080807-07. 05 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, BUSSOLA - (ITALY) Some reduction here. Yes, but temporary. Considerable brett too. Not as brightly fruity as the 04. Improves with air, showing ripe red raspberry aromas./ Great acid, vigor. Good fruit concentration and much more fruit clarity and beauty on the palate. Will surely improve with age. 15.8+. WT080807-08. 05 UMBRIA VIPRA ROSSA, BIGI - (ITALY) Some thought this corked. I don’t. Yes, it has a smell of muck, moist black earth, potting soil, terrarium, conservatory. But not mustiness. Very black-purple fruits and flowers. Violets./ No bitterness that usually accompanies corkiness. The black earth again, the damp cellar. But not mustiness. Actually, I kind of like it. Different. 15.7. WT080807-09. 05 CHIANTI CLASSICO, CARPINETO - (ITALY) Super! Complete high altitude Chianti Classico success in 05. Fine black and red fruits, both fresh and dried. Anise, earth, mushroom. Flowers too. Dense. Very complicated, especially for such a young wine./ Great acid, fine tannic grip. Well balanced, and full of fruit: an intense and rangy flavor profile. 17.0+. WT080807-10. 04 CHIANTI CLASSICO, ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI - (ITALY) Good dark fruit. Lovely airs of dried fruits and flowers, sachet and spices./ Dark fruit goodness of 04, without the meanness. That seems to have passed from most wines now, though it will probably crop up again in the riservas and the brunellos. Lots of material. Well balanced. In the 04 style. Very expressive and graceful. Plenty in reserve. Good ager.
16.7+. WT080807-11. 05 MORELLINO DI SCANSANO I PERAZZI, LA MOZZA - (ITALY) Oh! Warm and spicy, open and southern sangiovese at its best. Complete ripeness without excess. Big, solid, concentrated. Beautiful too./ Rich, balanced, sweet red fruits. Plus cool, purple loganberry essences. Ripe acid and tannin. Great now with food thanks to its harmony and early accessibility. What more could you want in a morellino? 17.1. WT080807-12. 01 VELLETRI RISERVA, COPROVI - (ITALY) Purple colored but mature in bouquet. Sun-drenched fruits, warm earth, mushroom, clove, flowers. Valid old time Latium rosso./ Sleek-textured. Warm, burnished, dried cherry, wood spices, clove, dried orange peel. Plenty of mushroom too. Ripe acid and tannin. Very meaty texture, and, to an extent, flavor. Nice. 16.3. Wednesday, August 1, 2007 WT080107-01. 06 ZOLO MENDOZA SAUVIGNON BLANC - (ARGENTINA) Smoky, bright, tangy. Some gooseberry./ Bright, racy, tangy, very refreshing. So alcohol heat. Bright mineral-salt finish. 15.7. WT080107-02. 06 ZOLO MENDOZA TORRONTES - (ARGENTINA) Ah! Now here’s fruit character! Flowers, especially rose. Talc. Orange peel./ Cold cream flavor. Good acidity and varietal bitterness. But the alcohol’s up there, so it’s not as refreshing as many of its competitors. Maybe food would assuage, and a cooler tasting environment. 15.9. WT080107-03. 06 CASTILLA Y LEON TEMPRANILLO ROSE, PENASCAL - (SPAIN) Simple, playful expression of red fruits, cranberry, flowers, and spice. A nice little tingle./ On entry, the acidity is mild, leaving a slightly sweetish impression. But it rallies at the end, giving a tangy and energetic aftertaste. Pleasant overall. 15.0. WT080107-04. 04 CHIANTI CLASSICO, PIEGAIA - (ITALY) Good 04 dark fruit basis of blackberry and cassis. Plus dried red fruits, especially cherry and plum. Sangiovese anise and tar too. Nicely burnished and expressive, offering that alluring Italianate warmth./ Spicy dried fruits and anise flavors. Some brett, leather. Needs more time to develop peak generosity than did the comparatively forward 03. Refined, reserved,
and well tuned. 16.1+. WT080107-05. 05 JUMILLA MONASTRELL ALTOS DE LA HOYA UNGRAFTED OLD VINES, BODEGAS OLIVARES - (SPAIN) Wow! Fabulous, deep, black, pure cherry-berry fruit. Ripe but cool–characterizes high-altitude, southern growing conditions. Yes, lively, delicate fennell, tea, and lavender highlights./ Palate reconfirms the brambly beauties. Really a textbook example of Jumilla mourvedre. Good acidity, of course. And well-wrought framework.
16.0+. WT080107-06. 04 RIOJA COSME, BODEGAS PALACIO Y HERMANOS - (SPAIN) The usual black-fruit beauties of the Cosme cuvee. And the coolness of the vintage in synch. Dark berries, plum, and flowers. Lovely future. Clearly a good vintage for Cosme./ Fruity, zesty, spicy. Some well-managed oak seems to play a complexing role. Nicely stated, nicely polished. Good acid, extract, grip, ripe and fine tannin, juice, depth, length.
Fine potential. 16.3+. WT080107-07. BASILICATA VULCANO, ARS POETICA - (ITALY) Warm, broad, sweet, southern aglianico fruit. Darker and deeper than usual in 04. Bright, spicy, smoky, assertive./ Less ripe and rustic than the 03. Great, nervy acidity accompanied by glycerol to give lots of textural play. Serious, sizeable, and rangy. Fine depth. Well managed tannins. Many mealtime possibilities already. Growth to go. 16.4+. WT080107-08. 04 NEMEA AGIORGITIKO, DRIOPI - (GREECE) Warm, savory, brooding black fruits, including mulberry. Exotic and beguiling airs of lavender, cedar, clove, and Moroccan spices./ Rich dried fruits and flowers–just lovely floral elements. Persistent. Exciting. Would love a spicy lamb dish. 16.3+. WT080107-09. 04 ZOLO MENDOZA CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (ARGENTINA) Sweet entry for South American cabernet. Full, Cabernet dark and framed. Some nutty oak./ Yes, astonishingly sweet fruit. Of course, the wine is three years old and from a plenty-ripe vintage.. Good balance of sweetness and acidity. Nutty oak again. Very fine tannin. Inviting mouthfeel and flow for cabernet. 15.8. WT080107-10. 04 ZOLO MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Black and snappy. Sweet cherry fruit and plenty of wood char./ Sweet and strong. Plenty of alcohol and glycerol. High alcohol seems to be a mark of this Zolo line, though it was not so apparent in the cabernet. Good acidity. Very malbec dark. Not nearly so accommodating as the cabernet. 15.6++. WT080107-11. 04 NAPA CELLARS NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Sweet and large in the 04 vernacular. Luscious zin berry fruit and hint of dark chocolate. Spicy, toasty oak. Powerful, but with some Napa grace notes. Better in cool weather than the conditions under which it is tasted this evening./ Yes, big-scaled. Big fruit and oak. Sweet and smooth entry. Juicy, racy acidity for balance. 04 sass. Very generous and appealing.
And well crafted. Needs a few months to earn the intricacies of maturity expressed in the 03 last winter and spring. 16.8+. WT080107-12. 05 STEELE OLD VINE PACINI VINEYARD MENDOCINO ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Racy, spicy, savory. Sweet oak spices and dark Mendocino zinfandel fruit disposition. Complete Mendo zin./ Woody-spicy. Vigorous, nutty, powerful, zesty, sweetly fruity, and long. Great range and presence. Yields to the 04 only in maturity. 17.0+. |
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