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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- August, 2005 |
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Wednesday, August 31, 2005 wt083105-01. COL
DI LUNA VENETO PROSECCO-CHARDONNAY BRUT
- (SPARKLING) Nice, fresh expressions of both prosecco green apple
and chardonnay apple-lemon./ Soft, creamy frizzante mousse. All
about fruit and fizz. Apple, peach, nectar, stone. Stylish and attractive.
Easy drinking. 15.7. wt083105-02. 04
TOSCANA VERMENTINO, CAMPO AL MARE - (ITALY)
Fat, succulent apple, melon, and nut aroma like pinot gris. Very
expressive, pungent, delineated, broad, and accurate. More body
than the average Sardinian vermentino. Complete./ Heaps of fresh
fruit varietal character. Sweet and rich fruit, very vibrant, with
good acidity. Fine. 16.4. wt083105-03. 03
HARTFORD COURT SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY
- (U.S.) Fibrous, woody, rather aggressive nose. Thick, ripe, solid,
full. Barrel-ferment cream and nut./ Very malolactic. Cream and
lemon. In fact, lemon ice cream flavor. Lots of wood vanillin. Not
as brutal on the palate. The sweetness and softness coats the wood
and the alcohol. Less burn, less roughness. The fruit shows stamina.
14.5. wt083105-04. 04
COTES DU RHONE FUTS DE CHENE BLANC (VIOGNIER), CHATEAU BEAUCHENE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) The oak’s still a bit on top,
but viognier peach, pear, melon, mango, and flowers characteristics
are fully evident. Good crispness./ Feels and flavors of oak and
viognier. Some oak tannin. Viognier viscosity in the middle and
astringency at the back. Sassy, mineraly, assertive, and quite wonderful.
Just needs a little time for the oak to settle in. 16.4. wt083105-05. PENINSULA
CELLARS MICHIGAN OLD SCHOOL WHITE - (U.S.)
100% cayuga - And a right proper example of cayuga at that. Fragrant
apple aromas, like Mutsu. Pineapple and grapefruit highlights. Penetrating
and ventilating. Northern cayuga style. Crisper than Finger Lakes
renditions. Lively and engaging./ Mild, sweet, and flavorful. Juicy
fruit acidity. Stylish and generous. A tasty treat. 16.0. wt083105-06. 04
KIONA WASHINGTON WHITE RIESLING - (U.S.)
Pac NW crisp and scented. Flowers, fern, cool apple, peach, melon,
and mango. Ventilating./ Very fine citrus flavors too. Mild sweetness
countered by juicy fruit acidity. Easy. A wine to enjoy, not study.
15.7. wt083105-07. 04
COTES DU RHONE PARALLELE 45 ROSE, PAUL JABOULET
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Full and fresh. Grenache body, power, and
strawberry and peppercorn scents. Tingly. Generous. White-fruit
freshness./ Very full. Good richness, flavor intensity, power. Will
appreciate hearty fare. 16.0. wt083105-08. 04
PIC ST. LOUP ROSE, CHATEAU DE LANCYRE
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Brighter, crisper, more focused. More raspberry,
less strawberry and white fruits./ Fresh, gripping, crisp, flavorful,
vibrant. Nervy, high strung. 16.3. wt083105-09. 04
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE COTE BLEUE ROSE, JEAN-LUC COLOMBO - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rather crude and featureless,
fruitless, every stalky. Hard candy aroma./ Tart, astringent. Low
flavor profile. Almond and acetone. Mean. What went wrong? The reds
and whites we’ve tasted from Colombo are of much better quality.
12.8. wt083105-10. 03
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, DARIO D’ANGELO
- (ITALY) Ripe, earthy, meaty, deep. Spiced plum. Olive. Lots of
licorice. A generous wine of the countryside, unsophisticated but
giving./ Great acidity for 03, and especially bright fruit flavor.
Good alcohol for body. Full and flavorful bargain with broad applications.
15.6. wt083105-11. 03
UMBRIA MERLOT PESANO, FALESCO - (ITALY)
Sweet merlot cherry and tea. Nice oak spices. Raspberry note too.
And plum and cocoa. Very brightly focused fruit and oak./ The merlot
fruit is ripe but not too ripe. And the oak is spicy and properly
proportioned. Great acidity here. Almost as neatly structured as
the 01, but a little plumper and sweeter and softer thanks to the
warmth of the vintage. Dense, polished, handsome, serious. Craftsmanlike
in a modern setting. 16.2. wt083105-12. 03
BOLGHERI, CAMPO AL MARE - (ITALY) 60%
merlot, 20% each cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc - Suggests class
and sophistication from the start. Depth and concentration too.
Fine French oak. This is all about breed, discretion, finesse./
Fine and racy, with very, very fine-grained tannins. Lovely fruit
presented in a dignified manner. Noble to the core. The race of
a grand cru claret. Everyone agreed this was the class of the tasting
and worth the price. Cheap by Bolgheri (Ornellaia, Sassacaia) standards,
really. 17.6+. wt083105-13. 04
CALATAYUD GARNACHA OLD VINES, VINA ALARBA
- (SPAIN) Minimum vine age: 50 years - Sweet strawberry jam and
peppercorn grenache expression, right down to the seeds. Generous
and Rhone-like. Plenty ripe in 04. Won’t miss the 03 at all./ Rich
and ripe, with lush texture and acidity to balance. Very vigorous.
Flavor range expands to red and black raspberry, cherry, and cassis.
Big, rich, and decadently generous. 15.9. wt083105-14. 03
CASTILLA SOLAZ, OSBORNE - (SPAIN) 80%
tempranillo, 20% cabernet - Meaty, roasted, southern, bold, generous.
Smoke, oak, boysenberry, and earth perfumes. Brighter and better
balanced than the good 01./ Fresh, ripe, harmonious feels and flavors.
Good acidity in 03. From high altitude and cool nights? Excellent
depth and structure. Fine oak integration. Solid, handsome value.
15.6. wt083105-15. 03
RIOJA, SIERRA CANTABRIA - (SPAIN) Aroma
dominated by sweet vanillin, fig, and blackberry. Perfumed, stylish,
modern./ Oak vanillin and brown spices give a baked-goods flavor.
And there’s fruit perfume and cushioning too. Good strength, fortitude.
With breathing, it explodes to fill the palate. Give it a few months
more and it will be a giant of a value. 15.7+. wt083105-16. 03
COTES DU RHONE, CHATEAU DE SEGRIES - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Fresh, cool Gard styling; even in 03 the relative
coolness is evident. Nice grenache strawberry aroma and airs of
syrah lavender./ Fresh, bright, and racy for 03. Good acidity and
grip. Ideal Gard Cotes du Rhone. 16.0. wt083105-17. 01
CAIRANNE - COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES GRAND RESERVE, CAVE DE CAIRANNE - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Oh, boy! Blast from the past!
Same style as the Cave’s Cairanne Grand Reserve we used to buy in
the late Seventies and early Eighties. Ripe, full, firm, roasted,
and generous in the Cairanne style. Big black fruits and peels.
Engaging floral nuances. Classic. An old trouper. Not a bit sweet
or modern./ Yes, dry, firm-centered, traditional Cairanne. Good
grip, fine tannin, and not a hint of oak, just seasoning perhaps
in large, old foudres. 16.3. wt083105-18. 03
RIDGE 3 VALLEYS SONOMA RED - (U.S.) Dry
Creek, Alexander, and Russian River Valleys - 72% zinfandel, 12%
carignane, 10% petite sirah, 4% cinsault, 2% mataro - Ripe, open,
sweet blackberry and cassis fruit. Chocolate-covered cherry. American
oak aromas of dill and coconut. Old vines, long hang time./ Strong,
frank, oaky. Soft and juicy fruit. Very bold and generous, openly
American style of wine. 16.0. wt083105-19. 02
OC SHIRAZ NORD SUD, DOMAINE MIGUEL - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Syrah dark, both in color and aroma. Spicy, sweet
blueberry and black raspberry fruit aromas. Cigar box nuances./
Mild, easy, soft, flowing 02, appointing itself well. And there’s
grip, firm center, strength, and sweetness enough. This is not a
wanting 02 wine. Balanced and tasty. Many mealtime applications.
15.5.
Wednesday, August 24, 2005 wt082405-01. 04
MONTES RESERVE CURICO VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (CHILE) High toned, racy, zesty lemon-lime and grassy aroma. Steely
edge. Ripe pear and vanilla (from oak or ripeness?)/ Bright, exuberant,
tangy, pungent. Passion fruit, orange peel, grass, spices. Again,
I sense some barrel aging. A reserve style, a mealtime style. With
poultry rather than fish. A chardonnay-like handling of sauvignon
blanc. 15.5. wt082405-02. 03
ST. SUPERY VIRTU NAPA VALLEY WHITE - (U.S.)
Full, waxy semillon presence. Good oak and time in oak. Sweet vanilla
and nuts. Ripe peach and melon fruits. Succulent citrus, mango,
papaya. Complex./ Big time white, with lots of oak-earned vanilla
and cookie dough. Rich. Semillon viscosity coats the acid. A stout,
proud dinner wine with intriguing possibilities. 16.0. wt082405-03. 03
MACON CHARDONNAY, DOMAINE TALMARD - (FRANCE
BURGUNDY) Ripe apple, quince, citrus, and grains. Boy, I would swear
up and down that this was barrel aged. But it wasn’t. Full, ripe,
powerful, toasty. I guess it’s the warmth of the vintage, the sun-tanned
grape peels, that give this woody impression./ Again, toasty. Broiled
peach, orange. Roasted grains. Very powerful. Ripeness foiled by
a racy minerality. 15.6. wt082405-04. 04
ERBACHER HONIGBERG RIESLING, VON ERBACH liter
- (GERMANY) Fresh, with that 04 malic cleanness, crispness, lift,
and brace. Very bright in the vintage style, certainly golden and
minerally in the Rheingau style./ Again, crisp, fresh, bright. Generous
and focused, with lively 04 acidity. Golden peach and honey nuances.
Real Rheingau riesling at $7.49 the bottle equivalent. What more
could a bargain hunter want? 16.2. wt082405-05. 03
CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Good, deep-woven, toasty oak and sweet cherry fruit. Dark-toned.
A big improvement over the oak treatment of earlier vintages. The
oak used to sit on top, superficial and glossy, and put a lid on
the fruit. Now they work in tandem, and both run deep./ Sweet oak
and fruit. Cherry, tea, milk chocolate. The oak contributions are
admirably complex, featuring both caramel and brown spices. This
is good stuff. 16.0. wt082405-06. 03
BOURGOGNE SAINT VINCENT, VINCENT GIRARDIN
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Opens to a really full, ripe, roasted, rustic,
powerful, warm-vintage Bourgogne. Big, dense, stern. A grappler.
Nice toasty oak extra. Really turns up the volume. Full presence./
Big, assertive black cherry and oak flavors. Muscular, voluminous,
warm, generous. All about 03 ripeness, power, dry-berry concentration.
A winter burgundy with a good future. 16.2+. wt082405-07. 04
MONTES RESERVE COLCHAGUA VALLEY MERLOT
- (CHILE) A lot of vanilla oak and full, sweet merlot cherry and
herbed tea. Demonstrative Montes red-wine styling. Bright fruit
delineation spells good acidity too. There’s style and charm as
well as bombast./ Yes, for all the fruit sweetness, the acidity
is up to the task. Most flavorful, rangy, powerful, and generous.
Cherry, blueberry, black raspberry, tea, and chocolate. Really delivers
for the price. 16.0. wt082405-08. 02
COSTIERES DE NIMES LASIRA, VIEILLE FERME
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) At a reductive stage yet. Will reward airing
and aging. Certainly shows its 75% syrah content. Very dark syrah
berry fruit./ Reduction still pinches the palate a bit. Nonetheless,
it’s evident that there’s plenty of sound and ripe enough fruit
here. No sense of the rot that plagued so many 02s. Good triage
made. Medium bodied–commendable in 02. A right decent palate. Now,
give it time to throw off its reduction, and you’ll have a bargain.
14.0+. wt082405-09. 01
CAMPO DE BORJA CRIANZA MOSEN CLETO, ARAGONA
- (SPAIN) Rich in dried cherry and strawberry aromas. Shows the
breadth, mellowness, and bouquet development of a wine kept long
in cask. A rich and nicely mature crianza that retains good fruit
yet shows barrel-aged complexity at the same time. As a good crianza
should./ Rich and commendably well balanced. Lively, charming, nicely
focused fruit flavors. Great acidity and the proper viscosity of
a good, cask-aged Spanish red. Super bargain. The talk of the tasting.
16.0. wt082405-10. 01
RIOJA CUVEE ESPECIAL, SIERRA CANTABRIA
- (SPAIN) Heaps of new-oak complexity: vanilla, toast, toffee, incense,
Asian spices. Black fruits galore, and elegant wildflower highlights.
Modern. Explosive./ Rich, full, powerful. Plenty of material and
grip, structure and concentration. Good 01 acidity, form. Fine tannin.
Plenty of depth and class. Lots to give now; lots more to come.
16.8+. wt082405-11. 01
CAMARADERIE WASHINGTON CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Pac NW cool, firm, dark cabernet sauvignon. The oak is
dark and charry too. Big, concentrated, and powerful cabernet. Deep-seated
brett tones that are positive and complexing./ Ripe, almost dried,
currant cabernet fruit. Massive and muscular. The tannins are still
granular and imposing. Would appreciate more bottle age. 16.4+. wt082405-12. 03
HMR REX GOLIATH CALIFORNIA SHIRAZ - (U.S.)
Rich in seductive, brown-spice and toffee oak notes. Rich in genuine
syrah fruit character too./ Yes, a lot of vanilla and oak spices.
Very savory. And there’s plenty of both the flavors and the texture
of syrah. Warm raspberries, not jammy. Lots of volume here. Generous,
well filled, well extracted. A bargain. I can see the awards. 16.0. wt082405-13. 03
SABLET COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, CHATEAU DU TRIGNON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Not only is it saturated with
a garrigue complex, but also the red berry fruit is exceptionally
bright, high-toned, and focused, as well as saturated. Thorough.
A complete Sablet, I’m certain. An veritable explosion of fruit
and garrigue on the nose. Pepper, power, surging aromatics. Wow!/
Again, the berries, the peppercorns, and the garrigue complex all
finely delineated, all fully saturated. One stately and beautiful
Vaucluse rouge. 17.0. wt082405-14. 03
RASTEAU COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, CHATEAU DU TRIGNON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Dark, powerful, more sullen.
With airing some peppercorn and garrigue spices come through. Then
blackberry and bacon. Lots of peel extracts. Big guns potential.
A proper Rasteau but way too young now./ Big volume, power, mass,
extract, ambition. But very miserly at present. Really clamps down
on the palate. 16.4++. wt082405-15. 03
GIGONDAS, CHATEAU DU TRIGNON - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Sweet, ripe, and full of garrigue like the Sablet.
Only much more powerful. I mean, really Gigondas powerful. With
air, blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas emerge./ Yes, power,
youth, lots of dry matter. Full fledged Gigondas that’s properly
gripping, chewy, and tannic at this young stage. Great future. 16.8+. wt082405-16. 01
GIGONDAS, DOMAINE LES PALLIERES - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) This is powerful Gigondas stuff too. Deep, roasted
fruits and berries and herbals. With airing, some of the 01 stylishness
shows through. It’s not completely about power. In fact, it’s incredibly
sophisticated as Gigondas wines go./ Shows distinct Vieux Telegraphe
styling. A wonderful complex of garrigue and floral aromas and flavors.
Intricate, measured, nicely conceived. More to come. 17.1+. wt082405-17. 03
PUGLIA PRIMITIVO, A MANO - (ITALY) Both
power and clarity. This is great primitivo. Ripe, pure, delineated,
focused. Both ripe and elegant./ Fresh, ripe fruit. Plum blackberry,
fig, allspice. Good acidity. Excellent balance. Ready to accompany
a meal. 16.3. wt082405-18. 02
LAKE SONOMA OLD VINE SAINI FARMS DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL - (U.S.) Soft, ripe, perfumed, easy-going style of zin.
Ripe, juicy, explosive black fruit aromas and toasty, charry oak./
Big, solid, ripe, powerful. Fruit jam and chocolate flavors. Great
BBQ selection. 16.1.
Wednesday, August 17, 2005 wt081705-01. VARICHON
& CLERC VIN MOUSSEUX METHODE TRADITIONELLE PRIVILEGE BLANC DE
BLANCS BRUT - (SPARKLING) Fine blanc de
blancs nose of appley delicacy. Good brioche bottle bouquet. Nearly
a Champagne nose, except that it’s a little lighter-bodied./ Appley
again. Moussy. Soft, easy, mild, high brut. More sophisticated than
it used to be, and slightly less dry. No longer vintaged. Good value.
15.8. wt081705-02. 04
VINHO VERDE, CASA DE VILA VERDE - (PORTUGAL)
Strong, pungent, waxy, spicy, flowery scent of alvarinho. This is
a feature of the best Vinho Verdes, but I’ve never gotten it so
clearly in any others shipped our way. Bravo! A bountiful nose,
also fresh, crackly, mineral./ Rich, and full of fruit, flowers,
and botanicals. And citrus peels, especially lime. Slightly frothy
still, but the CO2 is not biting and drying. Nice alvarinho light
viscosity, countered by crunchy, snappy fruit freshness. Fine depth.
The quality of a good Rias Baixas at half the price. Well liked
by the group. 16.2. wt081705-03. 03
GRAVE DEL FRIULI TOCAI FRIULANO, SAN SIMONE
- (ITALY) 03 ripe and varietally plump and nutty. Explosive bouquet
of pear, peach, avocado, and exotic herbals./ Full. Flavors of dried
orange peel and dried flowers. 03 plushness, softness. 15.1. wt081705-04. 03
CHATEAU GRAVILLE LACOSTE, GRAVES BLANC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Full, thick, lush, lemon custard semillon nose,
full and waxy. Kiss of oak? Crisp, lithe citrus peel piquance of
Bordeaux sauvignon blanc too. Underlying mineral savor. Well crafted./
Again, I detect a light touch of oak. It’s nice. Lots of citrus
and peel. 03 lush, but it’s controlled by adequate acidity and the
wine’s strength. Well textured, bright, refined, stylish. You have
a master winemaker here–a professor. 16.3. wt081705-05. 03
COTES DU RHONE LES ABEILLES BLANC, JEAN-LUC COLOMBO - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 03 ripe, warm, full. Orange
rather than lemon. Richness countered by citrus tang. Moroccan spices.
I suspect a good measure of roussanne./ Rich in citrus oil, tonic,
and spices. Thick and strong, but cool too. As it should be. 16.0. wt081705-06. 03
OC VIOGNIER LA VIOLETTE, JEAN-LUC COLOMBO
- (FRANC MEDITERRANEAN) Genuine varietal bouquet Plump, waxy yellow
fruits (peach, tropicals) and flowers. Full, strong./ Powerful,
structured, fragrant, exotic, warm, suave, glycerined. Good acidity,
and a cleansing bitter trace at the finale. 15.9. wt081705-07. 04
PINOT BLANC CUVEE BALTHAZAR, LUCIEN ALBRECHT
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Strong, direct, uncomplicated malic scent of Cortland
apple and peel. Very pungent, large, out-going. No sense of auxerrois
here. A pure, textbook pinot blanc./ Lush and soft and flavorful–that
apple again. Subtle suggestions of citrus, mint, and anise. Good
minerality, weight, length. Great charm and depth. Generous. Pinot
blanc to the core. Well liked by the group. 16.1. wt081705-08. 03
RIESLING RESERVE, LUCIEN ALBRECHT - (FRANCE
ALSACE) Good edelfirne bouquet forming already. Plush but dry, rich
but taut. Pear, peach, apple, citrus, mineral. Complex and able.
Well balanced./ Yes, there’s the bouquet in the mouth too. 03 softness,
but it’s thoroughly dry, and the alcohol fills in for the acid to
make a balanced overall impression. Pungently flavorful, well toned,
well braced.. Nice. 16.3. wt081705-09. 04
PINOT GRIS CUVEE ROMANUS, LUCIEN ALBRECHT
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Rich golden delicious apple and firm bartlett
pear nose. Waxy-creamy-nutty. Thick, dense, and compact, yet with
04 coolness and framing, like the 04 Germans./ Thick in a pinot
gris sense yet bright. Apple, apricot, melon and hazelnut flavors.
Rich and right. Great vitality for a pinot gris–not a bit ponderous.
Vintage or winemaker? Or both? 16.7. wt081705-10. 04
SMOKING LOON CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Smoky, full, and dark-fruited for a California pinot noir. Black
cherry, raspberry, tobacco, humus. Generous. Notably coastal, not
Valley./ Strong and ripe, but peel astringency cools it, keeps it
in control. Polished and rounded. Lots of charm. Impressed the group.
15.2. wt081705-11. 04
MARTIN RAY ANGELINE MENDOCINO PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) More density, varietal intensity, peel extracts. Some oak.
Cherry, kola, and tea pinot aromas. A more demanding, more serious
wine. Super sophisticated for the price./ Complex peel and pulp
flavors. Intensely varietal. Good astringency of a serious pinot.
Gads! This is a super value! The group thought this was well worth
the extra buck. 16.0. wt081705-12. 04
ARGYLE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR -
(U.S.) Young, showing warm spices, subtle oak, deep and dark pinot
fruit. Oregon coolness and racy floral perfume accents. Accomplished
for its age. Deep and dark peel extracts./ Deep cherry and peel
flavors. Good power; a kirsch note. Acid and tannin both nicely
ripe. Well crafted. This is good now. Racy, lively, tightly knit,
charming; nicely northern in style. 16.1. wt081705-13. 03
CLOUDLINE WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR
- (U.S.) Domaine Drouhin second label - Dark, deep, very oaky, hard,
mean. Lots of oak and barrel extracts. Very smoky. With airing,
a fine, deep, handsome black cherry pinot perfume emerges./ Full
of cherry and oak in balance. The oak is much more absorbed on the
palate. Shows the Burgundian hand. Fine structure and depth. Rich,
racy, important. High octane. Complete. 16.7+. wt081705-14. 02
ROBERT MONDAVI NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Opens bold, powerful, sweet, plentiful, and big-scaled
in the 02 mode. Lots of impact. Full of cabernet cassis. Then the
Mondavi flair for elegance begins to show through. Flowers, fine
French oak, finesse-ful fruit complications. Sophisticated and intricate.
Smoke and incense./ Elegant. Finesse, flair, fruit, cassis, fine
oak, proportion. Both stylish and concentrated. Not at all thickly
fruity. Regal bearing. More Mondavi that 02. As impressive as the
01 in its own way. 17.1+. wt081705-15. 03
COTES DU RHONE LES ABEILLES, JEAN-LUC COLOMBO
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Purple fruited for 03. Clearly lots of
syrah here. Suspect northern origins too. Raspberry, peppercorn,
bacon, lavender. The real deal./ Great fruit acidity. Northern Rhone
syrah demeanor. Special. Great value. 16.2+. wt081705-16. 02
RIDGE SPRING MOUNTAIN DISTRICT ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Almost over the top ripeness like the other Ridge 02s we’ve
tasted over the last year. And a daring level of VA. Plump and juicy
black fruits./ The abundant ripe fruit keeps the spicy oak well
in check. Luscious, rancio, port like. 15.1. wt081705-17. 01
AMARONE CAPITEL DE ROARI, LUIGI RIGHETTI
- (ITALY) Ripe, lightly raisined, late-harvest style. Big, warm,
and savory, with aromas of black fruits, underbrush, earth, tar,
fennel, tobacco, meat, and leather. Fragrant, dried fruits. Powerful,
yet cooling too./ Big time, stern, forceful. Powerful and sweet
but not jammy. Good alcohol level cools and balances the richness.
Rather a stylish, sophisticated amarone, not at all too roasted
or port-like. I suspect this will prove a sleeper in the wine cellar.
16.8+. wt081705-18. BARBADILLO
SOLEAR MANZANILLA SHERRY half liter -
(FORTIFIED) Full for manzanilla. More like a pasada, an aged manzanilla.
Bottled last year, but I think the aging took place mainly in barrel,
not bottle, and the wine is as it’s meant to be. Wonderfully dry,
pungent, nutty mein. Pistachio, marzipan, apple, and lemon aromas.
Outstanding./ Full, strong, lots of presence. Very nutty. Not your
crisp aperitif quaffer of a manzanilla. For warm and heavy tapas.
16.8. wt081705-19. 03
MENETOU SALON PRIEURE DE ST. CEOLS, PIERRE JACOLIN - (FRANCE LOIRE) 03 fullness. More like a Bordeaux than
a Loire sauvignon. Lush, creamy. Apple, lemon, calcaire, minerals.
Honey-dipped orange peel./ Rich and ripe, but has compensating acidity
and strength. Lemon drop tanginess. Good tensile brace. Plenty lively
enough for mealtime refreshment. 16.1. wt081705-20. 04
VAUCLUSE PETIT CAPRICE DES VIGNERONS DE CARACTERE, VIN TINTATEM - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) @ Vacqueyras - Firm, woody,
rustic but bright. Youthfully fruit. Soft cherry./ Spicy, anise-laced,
fresh, cool, stylish. Fresh, pretty cherry and herb flavors. Good
acidity. 14.7. wt081705-21. 02
CORBIERES CHATEAU AIGUILLOUX, M&F Lemarie
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe enough fruit on the nose for an 02.
Solid, earthy black fruits, with some tar, fennel, and toast./ Spicy
garrigue elements. Smoke and roasted meat. Soft, sleek, good depth.
Accomplished for 02. 14.3. wt081705-22. 99
COTES DE LUBERON CHATEAU DE MILLE, CONRAD PINATEL - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Ripe, powerful, evolved. Assertive,
explosive, perfumed, medicinal. Dried red fruits./ Vivid black cherry
flavor. Like cough syrup or cherry brandy. Strong, mature. Ready
for hearty fare in the depths of winter. Will warm the soul. 14.8.
Wednesday, August 10, 2005 wt081005-01. 03
MIXED BAG CALIFORNIA WHITE - (U.S.) @San
Martin - Boy, this is mixed all right. Exotic aromas of flowers,
tropicals, mango, and sawdust./ Mild acidity. Rather cloying. But
a good chill will give it more vibrance and thirst-quenching attributes.
13.4. wt081005-02. 04
PENINSULA CELLARS OLD MISSION PENINSULA PINOT BLANC - (U.S.) The real deal. Genuine, green-toned pinot blanc
nose. Melon, ripe apple, prickly pear. Good volume and depth./ Full
bodied dry white wine with some nice, subtle peachy, floral extras.
Shows both body and flair. Piquant and perky fruit acidity. Good
dinner wine. 16.2. wt081005-03. 04
PENINSULA CELLARS ANTRIM-OLD MISSION PENINSULA PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) First wine from Antrim County grapes - Full.
Lots of tingle, lots of nasal feel, power, presence, cling. Apple,
nut, cream, wax, melon–that’s pinot gris!/ Add quince and tangerine
notes. Luscious pinot gris viscosity with plenty of dry extract
to jazz up the texture. Both fat and burnished, brushed. 16.4. wt081005-04. 04
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE COLUMBIA VALLEY PINOT GRIS - (U.S.) Good and tingly too. Very racy. Racier and less
rich than the above. Shows style and coolness. Aromas of pear, apple,
melon, and hops./ Flavors confirm. Smooth. Nice, easy texture. Good
now; better in fall. 15.5+. wt081005-05. 02
MIXED BAG CALIFORNIA RED - (U.S.) @San
Martin - Bright Valley-red aromas of anchovy and sweet cherry-berry
candy and custard. Some American oak tones./ Sweet. Attractive black
and red fruits compote. Vanilla and dill American oak notes. Literally
sweet. Easy. 13.9. wt081005-06. 02
AMIGOS NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Cellared & bottled @Napa - Mild and even-handed coastal
fruit presentation. Blackberry and blueberry. Light, toasty oak.
Friendly and forward. Nice enough. Convincingly Napa, if not very
flashy./ Good oak touch on palate too. Juicy fruit acidity that
grows rather aggressive in the mouth over time. Acid adjusted? Has
a bit of a bite. 14.5. wt081005-07. 01
VOLNAY, JEAN-MARC BOILLOT - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Good oak touch here. Lovely fruit and berry aromas plus flowers–lavender
in particular. But the prominent attribute of all is Volnay silk.
A real Volnay./ Great acidity, body, depth of fruit, complexity.
Lovely, silky, feminine Volnay. Sooo silky! As Volnay ought to be.
God, it good get away from ‘Bigger is Better’! Great terroir here.
Very, very fine-grained tannins. 17.0+. wt081005-08. 04
MONTSANT LES SORTS JOVE, CELLAR EL MASROIG
- (SPAIN) Carbonic maceration - Freshness of CM, plus southern warmth
to distinguish it from Beaujolais. Lusty, fresh plum and blackberry
aromas./ Again, the freshness and vivacity of whole-bunch fermentation.
Full acidity. Could serve this cool. 15.8. wt081005-09. 03
MONTSANT VI NEGRE SOLA FRED, CELLAR EL MASROIG
- (SPAIN) Ripe and fresh young 03 style. Lovely, racy cherry fruit,
plus cassis and fennel. Good power and presence. A burly guy./ Rich
fruit flavor and feel. Bright, crisp, full, chewy, tangy, sweet
and sassy. A terrific value. 16.3+. wt081005-10. 04
BARBERA DEL PIEMONTE, CASTELVERO - (ITALY)
Fresh and typical of the varietal in youth. Black cherry and licorice.
Hints of currant, tea, kola. Flattering rusticity./ Juicy. Has that
real barbera tang of acidity and measured VA. Best vintage yet here.
15.5+. wt081005-11. 03
BARBERA D’ALBA TRE VIGNE, VIETTI - (ITALY)
Fabulous oak aromatics. But the real beauty of the wine is the strength
and quality of the cherry-cassis fruit statement, which is not subordinate
to the oak. You get both beautiful pictures, in harmony, in one
package. The barbera is real: dark, zesty, properly edgy. The overall
picture is big, strapping, deep, reserved./ Again, great oak finesse
and clear and lovely barbera fruit statement. Young, intense, concentrated.
Fine acidity, dryness, race. Wow! If this is modern, it’s the best
of modern. 17.2. wt081005-12. 02
BARBERA D’ALBA, PIO CESARE - (ITALY) Smoky,
old time, powerful. Shows time in seasoned cooperage–that sort of
mellowness and breadth. No 02 shortcomings evident./ Great race,
acidity, fullness, strength. Great cling and chewiness. This delivers.
Kudos to the winemaker for pulling this together from 02 fruit.
16.6. wt081005-13. 96
KING ESTATE OREGON CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Aging. Leather, horse, brett. Bell pepper, fig, American
oak. Deep and fully developed./ 96 Oregon thinness. A good mealtime
wine yet. But definitely not a wine to cellar. 14.8. wt081005-14. 02
CAPE MENTELLE MARGARET RIVER CABERNET-MERLOT
- (AUSTRALIA) Very powerful. Black and concentrated cassis aroma.
More like 01 than 02. More like South than Western Australia. With
airing though, it states its stylish, elegant Western Australia
bearings. Fine oak component./ Rich and suave. Powerful indeed.
A very big boy for its origins. But not without learned grace and
manners. Delivers generously. Needs hearty fare. 16.1. wt081005-15. 03
SOBON ESTATE ROCKY TOP AMADOR ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) Full and good American oak and Amador roasted fruit. Strong
Sobon styling. Big and warm raspberry, blueberry, kola, date, and
red pop aromas. Intricate./ Power, roast, richness. Good acid and
tannin. Keep a few months. Would be much more appreciated in a winter
month. 16.3+. wt081005-16. 03
FIRE STATION OLD VINE LODI ZINFANDEL -
(U.S.) Sweet, spicy, smoky, roti Lodi zin style. A wine of place./
Sweet and succulent. The palate supplies incredible red raspberry
zinfandel concentration that I didn’t catch on the nose. So raspberry
I can taste the seeds. Sweetness and softness nicely countered by
grape-skin extracts. 16.0. wt081005-17. 04
MOSCATO D’ASTI, VIETTI - (ITALY) Fresh,
frothy, alert, floral, talcy, eager, and very, very pretty. Cool
and exotic, with lots of aromatic push./ Very lithe and refined.
Flavors of sweet orange and custard apple, and flowers. Quite sweet,
with mild acidity. The CO2 has a drying and refreshing effect. The
best 04 Moscato we’ve tasted to date. 16.3.
Wednesday, August 3, 2005 wt080305-01. 04
MARQUIS PHILIPS HOLLY’S BLEND SE AUSTRALIA WHITE - (AUSTRALIA) Wool, lanolin, peels, citrus. Friendly
fruit; kind of citrusy, but also tropical. Passion fruit, unripe
peach, and a pleasant, flowery aspect. Full and tingly nasal sensations./
Full textured, full bodied, assertive, handsome. Orange pulp and
peel. Off dry. Good acidity and strength. Use with Pac Rim cuisine.
15.8. wt080305-02. 04
RUTHERFORD HILL NAPA VALLEY ROSE OF MERLOT
- (U.S.) Very pretty. Has a Tavel sense of fullness. Rich cherry-herb
concentrate of merlot./ Peels and sweet juice. Mild acidity. Too
bad; that leaves it a little flat. Mighty flavorful though. 15.0. wt080305-03. 03
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS WHOLE CLUSTER WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT
NOIR - (U.S.) True to varietal, with pinot
fruit and peel aromas. Kiss of oak?/ Soft, sweetish, jammy black
fruit. 14.6. wt080305-04. 04
COLONIA LAS LIEBRES MENDOZA BONARDA -
(ARGENTINA) Bright and juicy and intense. Cool plum, red currant,
and black earth tones. / Rich and round and plump. Sweet in the
front; good acidity in the back. And fruit peel astringency. Some
tannin yet. Will appreciate further bottle aging. 15.5+. wt080305-05. 03
CHATEAU ST. JEAN CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Attractive oak and ripe black fruit. Vanilla and cassis./
Sweet fruit, with toasty oak. American oak dill and coconut. Ripe,
rich fruit. 15.6. wt080305-06. 04
MONTES LIMITED SELECTION APALTA VINEYARD COLCHAGUA CABERNET-CARMENERE - (CHILE) Grand, dark, toasty oak. Kirsch, black cherry,
touch of cassis. Unique, alluring, liqueur-like nose./ Fruit flavor
confirms. Fine, melted tannins. Just enough acidity. Carmenere’s
in the minority, but it certainly dominates the texture for its
plumpness and allure. 16.6. wt080305-07. 03
BECKMEN CUVEE LE BEC SANTA YNEZ VALLEY RED
- (U.S.) Oak, toast, and spice. Fresh and vigorous Med varietals,
warm spices, candied orange peel. Authoritative, but also diplomatic./
Sweet, warm, and engaging. Good spice-flower-tonic range. The 02
showed more garrigue, but we tasted it at a later stage. This one
needs a few more months to spread its peacock’s tail of aromatics.
15.8. wt080305-08. SOKOL
BLOSSER MEDITRINA AMERICAN RED - (U.S.)
Well crafted. Disparate fruit range brought into attractive harmony.
Loganberry, blueberry. Cool./ Flavorful. A bit fluid. Racy at least.
Sweetish. Chocolaty. Could chill it down successfully. Nicely fashioned
but rather expensive for what it is. 15.5. wt080305-09. 01
ALDERBROOK OVOC DRY CREEK VALLEY ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) DCV raspberry fruit concentration with the cooler nature
of a zinfandel from the southern section of the valley. Class oak.
Toast, roasted fruit, and pure berry aromas./ Delicious raspberry
purity, definition. Sweet and succulent and seductive. Well balanced
fruit acidity. 16.8. wt080305-10. PENINSULA
CELLARS KROUPA ORCHARD MICHIGAN APPLE
- (FRUIT) Lovely apple nose with peel extras. A firm, small apple,
like a MacIntosh./ Good juiciness; sweetness and acidity in balance.
Easy, flavorful, appealing. 15.8. wt080305-11. ORIGINAL
SIN PREMIUM VERMONT HARD CIDER 12oz -
(FRUIT) Frothy. CO2 nose, dusty like club soda. Apple and sauce.
Real apple fruit purity. More like a sparkling apple wine than a
cider./ Gas gives refreshment like beer. Sweetness, acidity, and
CO2 are properly proportioned. Can work either as a quaffer or a
food partner. 15.2. wt080305-12. PENINSULA
CELLARS HOT ROD CHERRY - (FRUIT) Pretty
and pure Montmorency cherry nose, with hints of cinnamon hots and
of marizpan./ Rich and intense cherry pie flavor on entry. Quite
dry on the finish. 15.9.
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