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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- April, 2006 |
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Wednesday, April 26, 2006 wt042606-01. 05
COTES DU RHONE RESERVE ROSE, PERRIN -
(FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 60% cinsault, 20% syrah, 15% grenache, 5%
mourvedre - Oh, boy! Very, very plump and fruity. Assertive. Fresh
strawberry and melon./ Good richness and strength. Good cleansing
astringency. Balanced. Complete young Med rose. 16.2. wt042606-02. 05
COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ROSE, DOMAINE DE NIZAS
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) 50% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 20% syrah
- Dry, with lots of peel extracts. Reserved still. Fine structure.
Classic form. Handsome red and black fruits come with airing./ Very
dry, spicy, nervy, crisp. Real class and depth. Good strength, peel-extract
astringency. Welcomes food. By mid summer, this will have blossomed
nicely. 16.0+. wt042606-03. 03
SOQUEL PARTNERS’ RESERVE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Owned by Misters Bargetto and Morgan - Good,
dark New World pinot qualities. Light oak vanilla and baking spices.
Big, fat, creamy, chocolaty, friendly./ Easy, fruity, sweet, generous.
Distinctive and well defined California pinot. Nice mild application
of oak. Fine, soft tannins. Classy and alluring. 16.5+. wt042606-04. 04
MORELLINO DI SCANSANO CAMPOMACCIONE, ROCCA DELLE MACIE - (ITALY) Pretty and enticing blackberry aroma. Earthy,
briary black-fruit aromas too. Somewhat reduced still./ Blackberry,
cherry, and tobacco flavors. Burly. Quite powerful, with marked
acidity and tannin showing in its youth. Again, still reduced. Needs
air and age. 15.8++. wt042606-05. 04
MORELLINO DI SCANSANO, FATTORIA LE PUPILLE
- (ITALY) Deep cherry and peel, black raspberry, plum, fig, tobacco,
anise. Sleek, polished black fruits and stones. Dense and rich southern
Tuscan sangiovese. Dark, young, and reminiscent of the 98 style./
Rich, deep, dark fruit. Plenty of peel astringency. Young and powerful,
with fine texture and tannin. 16.4++. wt042606-06. 03
SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA, SPADINA - (ITALY)
Ripe, rich, dense, warm, strong, and generous. A controlled explosion
of deep-seated dried fruits./ Sweet and glycerined, round and ripe
dried fruits. Supple and juicy, polished and pretty. Fine power
and savor. Nicely delineated varietal character. A delicious, generous
value. 16.0+. wt042606-07. 05
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, CALDORA - (ITALY)
Ripe, open, soft, warm, savory, full. An explosion of young, primary
red and black fruits, especially currants. Fine fruit elegance and
focus. Green olive note. Alcohol cools./ Yes, cool and deep. Shows
the class of the varietal as usual. Plenty ripe vintage showing
here. Good mouthfeel. Tannin and texture. Shows class and depth.
Ripe, racy, generous, pleasing. Will surpass the 04 given a few
more months of development. 16.0+. wt042606-08. 03
BASILICATA VULCANO, ARS POETICA - (ITALY)
Whoa! Best ever! Ripe, but not too roasted or powerful. Spicier
than usual. Cool raciness./ Yes, racy, tangy. Reminds me of some
of d’Angelo’s older vintages under his family name. Shows that lovely
overtone of violets. Great acidity and tannin. Yes, this is like
the old-time stuff. Less mass and power, more finesse. And in a
hot year too! Very popular with the group. 16.5+. wt042606-09. 02
DOURO PRAZO DE RORIZ, QUINTA DE RORIZ
- (PORTUGAL) Tintas roriz, francesca, barocca, nacional; aged in
French oak - Wow! Fresh, uplifting. Fine, full, class oak for a
wine in this price range. Lots of dark fruit in support./ Again,
deep, dark fruit. Ripe, smoky fruit and meat. Smooth fruit and oak
tannin and texture. Touch reduced still. Ambitious for a wine in
this price range. Great value. Very popular with the group. 16.2+. wt042606-10. 03
CAMPO DE BORJA GARNACHA CENTENARIA, BODEGAS ARAGONIA - (SPAIN) From 100-year-old grenache vines - Real grenache
traits: strawberry jam and plentiful alcohol. Plus luscious raspberry
jam, and peppercorn and other spices. Large-scale and ventilating
power./ Wow! Sweet, rich, full, floral, elegant. Great depth and
finesse. Packed-in, concentrated old vines intensity of character.
And its great power is in balance with the whole. Built like a Gigondas.
Super. 17.0+. wt042606-11. 04
PRIORAT NEGRE, SCALA DEI - (SPAIN) 100%
grenache - Fullness of grenache, freshness of high altitude grenache.
Deep and floral. Touch of anise. Flattering reduction. Nose really
goes deep. Special sense of elegance that is fine Priorat grenache./
Striking, lively, dramatic. Classic Priorat. Fine breeding and texture.
Elegant complex of flowers and fruit, with a light seasoning of
wood spices. Fabulous value. Very popular with the group. 17.2+. wt042606-12. 03
LOUIS MARTINI SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Full and sweet, with cool, ventilating alcohol over sweet
blackberry and blueberry fruit. The usual Martini ripeness, goodness,
class./ Plump fruit, discreet oak, good structure. Spicy, peppery,
ripe and lovely. Well crafted. 16.3. wt042606-13. 03
OC TERRA SANA, LURTON - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN)
Soft, fat, and Burgundian. Lovely, classy black fruits. Good framing./
Broad and ripe black fruits. Woodsy. Food-worthy. 15.3. wt042606-14. 04
COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES, PERRIN - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Full grenache power and frankness. Luscious whole-berry
scents, rich and sturdy and primary. Bright berry, currant, and
cherry pie.Villages power and material./ Tauter, less forthcoming
on the palate. Modest tannins, good depth. Firm acidity. Needs aeration,
time, and food. 15.7+. wt042606-15. 04
RIEBEEK COASTAL REGION SHIRAZ - (SOUTH
AFRICA) Thick, four-square black fruits. Fairly full, with rich
dried fruit, nut, and leather aspects./ Solid, ripe black fruits
and oak char. Touch of cough drop. 13.7. wt042606-16. 04
LANGMEIL THREE GARDENS BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ-GRENACHE-MOURVEDRE - (AUSTRALIA) Shows balance, finesse, and ripeness. Barossa
sweetness, density, and concentration tempered by minty, charming,
elegant black fruits./ Sweet and lush, with exotic fruit and flower
flairs. Sweet, creamy, chocolaty. Fabulous combination of discretion
and allure. 16.2+. wt042606-17. 04
BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER RIESLING KABINETT, WILLI HAAG - (GERMANY) Yow! Tingly and vanilla-extract sweet and
cool. Firm and mineraly, with precise fruit and flower Mosel riesling
perfumes. Brauneberg smoky earthiness, 04 malic airs. Sleek and
graceful. Young./ Mild and youthfully sweetish still on the palate.
Crunchy red currants and yellow fruits. Classic structure. All the
right building materials are here. Give it time. 16.4+. wt042606-18. 03
GEWURZTRAMINER VIEILLES VIGNES, GERARD METZ
- (FRANCE ALSACE) Wow! Fat, ripe 03 styling. Big, dense, open, fragrant.
Flowers, lychee, cold cream, smoked meats, Asian spices, quince,
tea, citrus zest, and potpourri of herbs./ Very striking on the
palate too. Highly scented, ventilating, spicy, floral. Bold and
powerful 03 style. Decent acidity. Great value. 16.5.
Wednesday, April 19, 2006 wt041906-01. 04
ALTO ADIGE PINOT BIANCO, ALOIS LAGEDER
- (ITALY) Crisp, cool, racy Alpine pinot bianco. Quite full. Classy,
satin-textured yellow fruits with a bright citrus tang. Melon, green,
apple, chalk./ Lots of extract, peel astringency, mineral substratum..
Very fine texture, fine depth, good acidity. A lot of class for
the price. Welcomes food. 16.0. wt041906-02. 04
DOLOMITI PINOT GRIGIO, ALOIS LAGEDER -
(ITALY) Lovely, steely, high altitude take on pinot grigio. Sleek
and elegant, with polished yellow fruit and nice minerality./ Lively,
racy, lemony, minerally, with floral accents. Fine depth. Distinctively
Alpine. Very charming. 16.2. wt041906-03. 04
GRAVE DEL FRIULI TOCAI FRIULANO, PLOZNER
- (ITALY) Full. Getting a touch tawny, oily, thick, earthy./ Yes,
rather heavy and muddled. Lacks clarity, varietal definition. Bit
hot too. Age? Or house style? Has gotten good reviews–how long ago?
Losing its touch now. 14.3. wt041906-04. 04
POUILLY FUME, DENIS GAUDRY - (FRANCE LOIRE)
Crisp, young, bright. Gooseberry and smoke. With air, begins to
show its stuff: rounder and fuller than Sancerre. Buxom even./ Medium
full and firm on palate. Lime and gooseberry. Good acidity. Rambunctious.
A pleasant value. Should improve over the months, and should be
good at the table now and later. 15.7+. wt041906-05. 02
MIA’S PLAYGROUND RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Fresh enough for its age. Good Russian River
Valley chardonnay class. Good 02 form and framing./ Nice, creamy
oak aspect. Not overdone. Bit hot on the finish. 16.1. wt041906-06. 04
CHIANTI CLASSICO, CASTELLO DI QUERCETO
- (ITALY) Oh, yes! Fully packed and not as gaudily ripe as the 03,
good as that was. Cool and full. Just right. Great poise for mid
term aging./ Great acidity, glycerol, flavor, proportion, balance.
Fine mid term future. Well liked by the group. 16.2+. wt041906-07. 02
RIOJA CRIANZA GLORIOSO, BODEGAS PALACIO
- (SPAIN) A bit crunchy, snappy, and crisp in the 02 mode. 01 had
more ripeness and material. But not sinewy like a lot of the underwhelming
02s. A lovely 02, really./ Balanced, sweet, well proportioned. Not
over oaked. Very popular with the group, especially at the price.
16.2. wt041906-08. 05
ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS COLONIA LAS LIEBRES MENDOZA BONARDA - (ARGENTINA) Bright, primary, floral, purple. Very elegant
and vivacious./ Charming weight and fruit flavor. Just a joy. Can’t
think of a better wine with which to feature this varietal. Much
friendlier than the 04. Lots to like. 16.0. wt041906-09. 02
MIA’S PLAYGROUND DRY CREEK VALLEY MERLOT
- (U.S.) Deep, almost reduced. Satiny oak. Some sense of bottle
bouquet, including brett./ Rich 02 fruit, Dry Creek Valley warmth.
Merlot black cherry and generous oak savor. Racy edge. Well balanced.
Bouquet savor already. Fine tannin, good acidity, chewy for merlot.
16.1. wt041906-10. 04
SHALE RIDGE MONTEREY MERLOT - (U.S.) Sweet,
vanilla-coated merlot cherry with Monterey crackle, coolness./ Flavor
of cherry creme confirms aromas. Fine tannin. 04's looking like
a cool classic! 16.0. wt041906-11. 02
MIA’S PLAYGROUND ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Some brett and bottle development already. A
round face of cabernet, with eagerness and panache./ Bright palate.
Sweet and oaky, with vanilla, chocolate and mint highlights. Has
cabernet toughness, astringency. Prefer the merlot overall. 15.4. wt041906-12. 03
SHALE RIDGE MONTEREY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Fine oak treatment. If these Shale Ridges were done with
chips, as the price suggests, it was done really skillfully. Cool
sachet of flowers and herbs too–the best of Monterey. Lovely blackberry
cabernet definition. The blackberry descriptor is applied often
to cabernet but not often this well defined./ Fine oak, sweet seasonings.
Vanilla, milk chocolate, warm spices, briar, and berries. Fine depth.
These Shale Ridges are super values and well liked by the group.
16.2. wt041906-13. 04
MICHEL TORINO DON DAVID RESERVE CAFAYATE VALLEY MALBEC - (ARGENTINA) Cool for Cafayate. Deep and sweet in the
Cafayate style though. Good oak, sweet cherry-berry, touch of tar.
Rich, chocolaty, powerful, well framed dextrous./ Sweet and comfortable,
confident malbec with fine balance and good punch of fruit. Zesty
sweet fruit compote. Bright, lovely, nutty. Very fine tannins. Nice,
and nice now. 16.0. wt041906-14. 05
ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS MENDOZA MALBEC - (ARGENTINA)
Reduced, as it always is at this early stage. But there’s bright
black cherry vigor apparent./ Yes, a bit astringent still. Has grip.
Nice incense perfume forming with air. Handsome black fruits. Potential
class and complexity. This will turn out fine. I like this vintage–similar
to 02, whereas 03 and 04 were riper and softer. This has good form.
16.3+. wt041906-15. 03
FAIRVIEW AGOSTINELLI COASTAL REGION RED
- (SOUTH AFRICA) 38% barbera, 26% sangiovese, 23% primitivo, 13%
nebbiolo - Boy, that sure covers the map of Italy! Oh, nice and
sweet and ripe and savory, like a spiced gum drop. Some clove. Fine
oak and disparate fruit melange put together in an harmonious fashion.
Bravo!/ Sweet fruit and that candied gum drop impression again.
Delicious. Well crafted. Speaks of the varietals. No horse, no bull.
03 fulfillment. Well liked by the group. 15.9. wt041906-16. 03
VACQUEYRAS, DOMAINE DES AMOURIERS - (FRANCE
MEDITERRANEAN) Deep and purple style of the house. Not an inkling
of 03 overripeness. A cool customer, sleek and claret like./ Palate
richer and softer than the nose–more 03 convincing. Still, the sleek,
lively, pretty house style. Red cherry. Balanced. Deep and potent.
Fine tannin. 16.5+. wt041906-17. 03
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE CUVEE GIRARD, RAYMOND USSEGLIO - (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Bold, open, 03 ripe, powerful,
dense, framed, and generous. Dark fruit, garrigue, spices, smoke,
underbrush, herbals, and minerals./ Rich and ripe. Very solid, authoritative,
concentrated. Game and garrigue elements. Full acidity and tannin.
Tremendous all the way. Needs lots of cellar time. 17.5+. wt041906-18. CHURCHILL’S
CRUSTED PORT bottled 2000 - (FORTIFIED)
Oh, boy! House style of floral, berry, date, caramel, licorice,
cool, balsamic, penetrating aromas. Fine and focused. Never too
inky in any way./ Mild sweetness. Again, the house style. Vintage
style too. Less grip of extract and tannin than a branded Vintage
port. But valid in the sense of early bottling and choice of material.
Ageworthy. Very ventilating. Churchill’s indeed. 17.0+.
Wednesday, April 12, 2006 wt041206-01. 04
RHEINHESSEN JEAN BAPTISTE RIESLING KABINETT, GUNDERLOCH - (GERMANY) Crisp, fresh, bright, eager, vibrant 04 style
with plenty of malic acidity./ Racy edge. Fine yellow fruits focus
(peach, nectarine). Good body. Fine depth. A lot of class. 16.4. wt041206-02. 03
KONSTANTIN FRANK BARREL FERMENTED FINGER LAKES CHARDONNAY - (U.S.) Crisp New York style of chardonnay. Nice level
of oak seasoning. Doesn’t stick out, doesn’t overwhelm the fruit./
Rich and dense and creamy mature chardonnay fruit. Sleek and alert,
there’s plenty of refreshing fruit acidity to perk it up. Well-proportioned
wine. Long aftertaste. 15.8. wt041206-03. 04
CHABLIS, JOSEPH DROUHIN - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Oh, this full and fresh, with tingly, palpable calcaire scent. Thin
layer of vanilla-creme frosting that I guess comes from some barrel
aging. Great village Chablis, classic Chablis./ Yes, rich and full.
The chalk, the apple, the flint, the terroir. Classic. 16.4. wt041206-04. 04
VINE CLIFF CARNEROS CHARDONNAY - (U.S.)
04 brisk, Carneros citrusy. Etches the nostrils with cool, bright,
crisp citrus fruit acid. Very fine French oak lacings./ Great richness
to the palate, and great show of restraint too. Full, deep, dense,
grainy, ambitious. Layers of flavors within a fine superstructure.
Good power. Decidedly not buttery. Coats and tingles. As classy
and elegant as the 03. Fine craftsmanship here. 17.0. wt041206-05. SALMON
RUN AMERICAN PINOT NOIR - (U.S.) Crisp
and delicate. Aromas of maraschino and licorice. Cool and charming./
Again. Tender, sweet pinot feel and flavor. Racy acidity. Not large-sized.
Shows grace, charm, and balance. Will not tire. Take to the table
often. 15.5. wt041206-06. 03
BOURGOGNE HAUTES COTES DE NUITS, JABOULET-VERCHERRE - (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Pure pinot in the ripe-fruit mode
of 03. Full, strong, big, forceful, slightly roasted./ Rich and
suave, with good acidity for the vintage. 15.7. wt041206-07. 04
CHIANTI RUFINA, FRASCOLE - (ITALY) Yes!
Sweet and appealing fruit. Cherry creme-vanilla like the 03. Sweetly
modern, and polished. Nice./ Assertive black and red fruits, smoke,
peppercorn, and tobacco. Some tannin. Good acidity. Not as lush
as the 03, at least not yet. Like so many of the Tuscan 04s, this
needs time to fill out. I’m confident it will. 15.8+. wt041206-08. 04
BOURGUEIL LES ALOUETTES, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) The fruitiest and most primary of the
trio (I tasted them backwards). Fresh and bright and full black
cherry, anise, game, herbs./ Supple, forward, well delineated. Some
green herb astringency at the end. Welcomes food. 16.0. wt041206-09. 04
BOURGUEIL CUVEE BEAUVAIS, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Bright and spicy. More verve than the
VV. Fresher, ready sooner. Sleek red fruits and berries, touch of
game./ Crisp and racy acidity. Fine tannin coats the teeth. Real
class. Serious, no-nonsense, keeper vintage for central Loire reds
so long as the fruit is ripe. 16.5+. wt041206-10. 04
BOURGUEIL VIEILLES VIGNES, DOMAINE DE LA CHANTELEUSERIE - (FRANCE LOIRE) Big, dense, fleshy, and hearty for the
appellation. No lack of concentration and ripeness. Full of herb,
terrarium, dark chocolate, black olive, game, and licorice aromatics./
Rich, well balanced presentation. Fine depth. Real old vines concentration.
Plenty of tannin and good acidity. An ager. And another wine that
begs for food. 16.7+. wt041206-11. 03
CHINON BARONIE MADELEINE, DOMAINE COULY-DUTHEIL
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Oh, yes! The roundness and ripeness of 03 is so
apparent after the younger, cooler 04s. Bold and deep. Full of licorice
and spices. Really fills up the nostrils./ Vigorous, with full vintage
ripeness. Brandied plum smoke, tar, leather. Soft and full bodied.
This is 03 all right. Light tannin. Another food-worthy rouge. 17.0+. wt041206-12. 04
ARCHETYPE BAROSSA VALLEY CABERNET-SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Mint, currant, 04 coolness, plus the sweet fruit and
oak basis of Barossa. High toned./ Sweet and balanced, easy, smooth.
Nice acidity. Enjoyable now. 15.8. wt041206-13. 04
ARCHETYPE BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ - (AUSTRALIA)
A big, rich, unabashedly ripe and thick Barossa shiraz. Full power,
good soft oak, and sweet fruit, yet there’s still the 04 cool edge./
Yes, it’s sweet and yet 04 cooling too. Fine fruit focus and depth.
Barossa thickness, roundness, generosity. Handsome. Welcomes some
ribs in a sweet but not too spicy sauce. 16.0. wt041206-14. 01
TORO CRIANZA, BAJOZ - (SPAIN) Powerful.
Full strength and American oak (dill, coconut). Solid fruit core,
sweet and ripe. Penetrating bouquet of oak and spiced plum. Patina
of bottle bouquet./ Some bouquet development on the palate too,
both from barrel and bottle age. Large and generous, warm and forthright,
if a bit tannic still. Well liked by the group. 15.7. wt041206-15. 01
ROCKING HORSE NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL -
(U.S.) Sweet, bold, powerful, nicely oaked./ Sweet and very generous.
Fine zinfandel flair. Developing its bouquet now. No need to rush
it, but it certainly can be brought to the table now and appreciated.
16.0.
Wednesday, April 5, 2006 wt040506-01. BANROCK
STATION SE AUSTRALIA SPARKLING CHARDONNAY
- (SPARKLING) Smells of doughy, mealy bottle bouquet and apple-citrus
chardonnay. Commendable bottle bouquet that has likely (and serendipitously)
formed after disgorgement, not before./ Good, measured oxidation,
dough, grain, honey, and fruit. Except for a little extra sweetness
and softness, and rather large mousse for its age, this could be
a ringer for Champagne. The infant Krug. Just dumb luck this has
become as sophisticated as it is while reposed in a distributor’s
warehouse. 16.2. wt040506-02. 05
MERIDIAN CALIFORNIA PINOT GRIGIO - (U.S.)
Very, very fresh. Some floral fermentation odors yet, and even these
are attractive. Plenty of apple-wax-nut-cream varietal character.
Super value./ Again, varietal and fermentation flavors both play
out and both are attractive. Rich in pinot gris glycerol. By summer,
the floral part will have evolved, and this will be a fulfilled
and fulfilling pinot grigio. 15.8+. wt040506-03. 04
FARALLON CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR - (U.S.)
Sweet and true pinot character. Cherry and tea. Simple, neither
broad more deep. But its single tone is a valid and attractive one,
and good Calif pinot at this price is hard to find./ Sweet cherry
and tea flavor confirms aroma. Good acid, texture, glycerol, body,
balance. Straightforward, varietal, and nicely priced. 15.5. wt040506-04. 03
F. GILLMORE CONCEPCION MAULE VALLEY MERLOT
- (CHILE) Full, sweet, pushy, vigorous, strong, eager nose. A lot
of animal here, and a lot of ripe berry./ Fruit sweetness and acidity
in balance. Juicy, flavorful. Fine tannin adds nice texture. If
you don’t mind the brett-dekk, it’s a nice value. 14.9. wt040506-05. 01
FARALLON CENTRAL COAST MERLOT - (U.S.)
Nice, sweet, bright fruit and oak. Sweet cherry-berry merlot attributes./
Yes, sweet and balanced. Good 01 form and stamina. Good job of winemaking.
No grey hairs. 15.2. wt040506-06. 03
FARALLON CENTRAL COAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (U.S.) Full surge of cabernet raw black currant and blackberry.
Lively, insistent. Fine oak seasoning. Wow! A lot of cabernet for
the money. Smells like a $20 cab./ Rich and variegated, strong and
full. Rangy and generous. This really delivers the goods. 16.0+. wt040506-07. 03
BERGERAC, CHATEAU DAME DE FONROQUE - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Sweetly herbal and ripe-fruited 03 Bergerac. Tangy and
tingly in the nostrils. Ripe red currant and red cherry fruit flair
and some cabernet peel tannin. Cedar, lavender, and pipe tobacco
highlights./ Fine acidity and tannin. Lots of race and textural
play. Upbeat, pretty, charming, well directed and focused. Fine
length. Nice future. Commendably attractive. 15.9+. wt040506-08. 02
CHATEAU GRAND MOULIN CUVEE COLLECTION, 1ERES COTES DE BLAYE - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Very suave and sophisticated fruit
and oak. Black cherry, tea, bergamot, and spices. Ample and fine
nose./ Good acidity. Good 02 firm and stocky material and form.
This is 02 fulfilled. 15.9++. wt040506-09. 03
L’ECUYER DE CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Organic - Ripe and really sophisticated.
Round, lush, well presented. Modern and fabulous. All this just
from the ripe fruit? Seems to have a wood complex, but never saw
wood. Wow!/ Sleek, polished, and racy claret styling, with good
astringency–an unexpected plus from 03. Tonic. Nothing 03 over-the-top
about it. Good tannin and structure. Generous. Fine effort. 16.2+. wt040506-10. 02
CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BARRIQUES NOUVELLES, BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX) Rich, full, and concentrated. Good
sweetness and strength of ripe fruit, with clear 02 delineation.
Seems to have cabernet form and firmness, but it’s 95% merlot! Grand
oak embellishments./ Again, the oak is really stylish, sophisticated,
and complex. Nice measure of 02 astringency, grip, form. An ager.
16.4+. wt040506-11. 03
CHATEAU COURONNEAU, BARRIQUES NOUVELLES CUVEE PIERRE DE CARTIER,
BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - (FRANCE BORDEAUX)
Wow! Really generous and sophisticated new-oak spicy perfumes. Ripe
03 fruit to match. More of a showboat than the relatively reserved
02./ Clearly this is rich in both oak smoky spices and black currant
fruit, but it’s not as well integrated yet as the 02. Oak flavor
and tannin still stand out. Compact core of fruit sweetness. Fine
structure, depth, class, and ambition. Well constituted. Great future.
16.5+. wt040506-12. 96
CHATEAU LES HAUTS DE PONTET CANET, PAUILLAC
- (FRANCE BORDEAUX) A lot of finesse here, especially in an obdurate
vintage like 96. I guess time has mellowed it. But there’s great
96 body and grip and compact core still./ Fine oak and rich fruit,
now softening within its firm 96 framework. Some animal is coming
out, and it’s complexing. Time has been kind to this wine. And there’s
more softening and bouquet development to come. 16.3+. wt040506-13. 99
STARVE DOG LANE ADELAIDE HILLS SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Good oak here–a little sawdusty, but not too aggressive.
Some bouquet development. Roasted black fruit, black pepper, and
eucalyptus. Hearty./ Heady, ruddy, and hearty indeed. The oak is
in tune with the fruit. This is much less developed than several
of the $50 and up 99s we tasted at the trade shows last fall. Impressive
stamina. 15.8. wt040506-14. 04
NINE STONES HILLTOPS NEW SOUTH WALES SHIRAZ
- (AUSTRALIA) Oh, yes! Sleek and pretty berry fruitiness, with touches
of oak, flowers, kola, coffee, and chocolate. Very bright, crisp,
berry-currant aroma. 04 coolness./ Yes, lovely, cool fruit that’s
sweet too. A beauty. 16.0. wt040506-15. 01
GREEN & RED CHILES VALLEY ZINFANDEL
- (U.S.) 01 power and intensity. American oak is strong and spicy,
and there’s enough sweet fruit and power to bear it./ Sweet and
full, with plenty of alcohol and glycerol to fill the mouth. The
oak is in good proportion on the palate. 16.2.
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