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Tasting Notes Printer-Friendly Version
- April, 2004 |
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Wednesday, April 21, 2004 wt042104-01. FLEURY
CARTE ROUGE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - (SPARKLING)
Full and mature, toasty bouquet. Lush, burnished pinot fruits./
Soft, well-evolved, well-honed mousse, fine and creamy, biscuity.
Very popular tonight because of the bottle development, the bouquet,
the fine, integrated mousse. Rich yet bright and racy, minerally.
16.8. wt042104-02. 2002
CHATEAU SENSEY, GRAVES BLANC - (FRANCE
BORDEAUX) Very pleasant pear fruit, silky, lovely. Semillon and
sauvignon in tandem, and perhaps a dash of muscadelle cool perfume.
Semillon wax, sauvignon soft grass./ Plump, sweet fruit balanced
by good cut. ‘02 all the way; both the yin and yang. Got a Bronze
Medal but it’s better than that–Silver at least. Great juice, texture
of ‘02. 16.0. wt042104-03. 2002
YARDEN MOUNT HERMON GALILEE BLANC - (ISRAEL)
Back label says mainly sauvignon blanc, with chardonnay, semillon,
and french colombard. Ah, did they forget the gewurztraminer or
muscat that is so prominent on the nose? Plump and pungent./ Snappy
and smooth. Little sweetness–maybe 0.5%. Choice, ripe acidity. In
balance. Nice. It really matters that the grapes came from the heights
rather than below sea level. Not much sign of flash-teurization
to render it mevushal. 16.0. wt042104-04. 2002
COSTIERES DE NIMES LASICA, LA VIEILLE FERME
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Rather tart and contrite to start, not
surprising for the vintage. But this baby fills out pretty well
and begins to show reasonable strength, body, and saturation. Sweet,
supple, perfumed black fruits./ On the palate, even more impressive
body, tannin, material, and grip considering the vintage...and even
the appellation, which is on the up and up but not usually this
intense. Well extracted for both. Even some garrigue aromas and
flavors. Fine tannins coat the teeth. Offers structure and depth.
Impressive 02; we’ve found some. 15.7. wt042104-05. 2000
CHATEAU CAP DE FAUGERES., COTES DE CASTILLON -
(FRANCE BORDEAUX) Gucci oak lavishing and concentrated fruit. Well
extracted–lots of skins-peels derivatives./ Full and fancy oak and
full fruit pulp and peel saturation. Lovely cherry, tea, and spices
flavors. Big build. Most generous and ageworthy Castillon I’ve tasted.
New-wave, cost-is-no-object Castillon from Right Bank Saint Emilion
and Pomerol proprietors. Fully worth the price. 16.7+. wt042104-06. 2002
RIOJA, RAMON CARDOVA - (SPAIN) Lively
blueberry and oak aromas. The oak’s a little aggressive still./
But the palate is more flattering. Spice and herb. Not tough at
all in this arena. Very ripe, but retains a tangy tartness too.
14.0. wt042104-07. 1999
RIBERA DEL DUERO CRIANZA, HACIENDA MONASTERIO
- (SPAIN) Very intense and extracted. Nutty, earthy, rugged black
fruits. Full, ripe, and warm. Blackberry, coffee, tobacco, dried,
fruits, singed chocolate, and anise accents./ Sweet and graceful,
with the same array of layered interests. Sexy oak spices. As hefty
as a big Aussie. Ripe enough fruit, with both oak and fruit tannin.
Has grip. Lovely now and will improve with age. 17.7+. wt042104-08. 2000
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE COLD CREEK VINEYARD COLUMBIA VALLEY MERLOT - (U.S.) Beautiful, sweet, cherry-berry fruit, polished
oak, and perfumed spices. Nicely burnished texture./ Noble reduction,
fine tannin. Very well fashioned, finished, balanced. Lays comfortably,
confidently together. Noblesse. Good ager. 17.0. wt042104-09. 2000
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE COLD CREEK VINEYARD COLUMBIA VALLEY CABERNET
SAUVIGNON - (U.S.) Firmer, of course;
it’s cabernet. Also good oak and that Pac NW fruit sleekness and
tartness that California reds seldom achieve. Real cabernet fruit./
Lovely cabernet black currant and blackberry echo on the palate.
Structurally tight, tart, tannic, reduced. Needs time. All there.
16.9+. wt042104-10. LEDNICKI
POLAND MEAD - (FRUIT) Pollen, rotundifolia,
buckwheat honey, time./ Rich and right. Very polleny and thick.
Dried peach, Moroccan spices. Clove, cinnamon, allspice. Grandma’s
Victorian upholstery. Ultimately, there’s a sense of elegance, many
subtleties, and fine depth. Off-dry and lasting. Try with Indian-influenced
South African dishes. 16.2. wt042104-11. 1997
FONSECA LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT bottled 2003
- (FORTIFIED) Sweet and friendly ‘97 style. Gently roasted. Fonseca
ripeness. Warm, rich, bold. Lots of walnut and anise./ Sweet, gentle,
mild. Aged the maximum 6 years in wood before bottling You can tell.
Mellowed, mild, easy drinkin’. You’d never mistake this for vintage
port, unlike the ‘94 Warre’s Traditional Unfiltered LBV. Useful,
right, and what it was intended to be. 16.7. wt042104-12. ACE
FERMENTED CALIFORNIA PEAR CIDER - (FRUIT)
Very hard pear nose; no ripeness./ Yes, it’s pear all right. Sickle
pear. Strange eggy, custard finish. 14.0.
Wednesday, April 14, 2004 wt041404-01. 2002
SANCERRE CHAVIGNOL LES MONTES DAMNES, ROGER MOREAUX - (FRANCE LOIRE) Brisk and bright and full. Explosive
even. Great plumpness and vigor of 2002. All in spades. Lovely ripe
gooseberry aroma, sleek and stylish. Multi-faceted: citrus, mineral,
grass, mango./ Rich and zingy. Ripeness, focus, tang, charm. Cut
and fill. Power too. Fine-tuned fruit and fruit acidity dance on
the palate. Very long. Complete. Has it all. 17.6. wt041404-02. 2001
SANCERRE VIEILLES VIGNES, PATIENT COTTAT
- (FRANCE LOIRE) Good and full. Nicely settled in at this stage.
Rich and round, peachy and smoky like a Pouilly Fume. Old-vines
density, lushness./ Very full, rich, composed, handsome. Sweet fruits:
peach, melon, gooseberry, papaya. Creamy, with good acid cut. Great
now. 17.2. wt041404-03. 2000
BOURGOGNE RENOMEE BLANC, REMOISSENET -
(FRANCE BURGUNDY) Earthy, sappy, old fashioned. Grains, wet wool./
Again, that wooliness of sulfide. Solid, old fashioned. Need\s air
and aige. 14.8+. wt041404-04. 2000
POUILLY VINZELLES EN PARADIS, LOUIS LATOUR
- (FRANCE BURGUNDY) Fine Louis Latour lemon and peel chardonnay
style. 2000 brace. At a lovely stage. Composed. Light dusting of
oak and stone./ Delicate oak appropriate to Maconnais. Citrus, peel,
oil. Nuts and grains. Good now. More bouquet to come. A tribute
to the vintage style. 16.0. wt041404-05. 2001
BOURGOGNE, BRUNO CLAIR - (FRANCE BURGUNDY)
Very bright, racy, focused 2001 fruit. Fine clarity, illumination.
Lovely pinot cherry and tea./ Cherry and tea again. Richness and
precision. Volume, sweetness, acidity, focus. Epitomizes the vintage.
Good ager too. 16.5+. wt041404-06. 2002
COTES DU ROUSSILLON, DOMAINE DU MAS CREMANT
- (FRANCE MEDITERRANEAN) Attractive, floral, reductive tones, especially
violets. Dark chocolate, sweet and solid black fruits; syrah-like./
Garrigue and lavender. Very cool tones of a cool vintage. Racy fruit
acidity. Medium bodied. Ripe but not roti. Perfumed, penetrating,
charming. Good winemaking this vintage. Everything should work out
well. 16.0+. wt041404-07. 2000
PALMELA ROMEIRA, CAVES VELHAS - (PORTUGAL)
Rich and ruddy. A good vintage here: ripe and generous fruit, including
pomegranate. Lots of resin and aromatic barks. Licorice. Aged well
in seasoned barrels./ Full, sweet fruit of a good, warm vintage.
Seasoned barrel time and sappiness of the varietals. Smoke, leather,
underbrush, exotic spices. One of the best ever. Fine tannin. Hefty:
a real mouthful. Dramatic. Can take bottle age. 16.4. wt041404-08. 2002
JUMILLA CARCHELO, BODEGAS AGAPITO RICO
- (SPAIN) Fresh, young, ripe, straightforward, primary. Whole bunch
fermentation. Soft and lush. Sweet black raspberry plus meat, tobacco,
and green herbs and olives./ Fresh, modern. Touch of tar. Good body
for ‘02. Fine tannin. Balanced. 15.6. wt041404-09. 2000
VALENCIA CRIANZA, VALENCIAN SUN - (SPAIN)
Strong, frank, and simple Spanish country wine, bright and tangy.
American oak veneer adds a dill note to the blueberry-like fruit./
Warm, smooth, sweet, generous, basic fare. Spicy oak. 14.5. wt041404-10. 2001
COSTERS DEL SEGRE GOTIM BRU, CASTELL DEL REMEI
- (SPAIN) Bright and eager modern fruit and oak. Great ‘01 lift,
verve. Explosive, expressive. Fruit, flowers, spices, cavendish
tobacco./ Rich, handsome, mouthfilling. Big, burly, solid, dense,
concentrated. Sweetly fruity. Flavorful. Good balance of wood and
fruit. Good ‘01 acidity. Fine depth. Best vintage yet here. 16.6. wt041404-11. 2001
MONTSANT MAS DONIS BARRICA, CAPCANES -
(SPAIN) Rich and velvety yet elegant an refined Bordeaux Grand Cru
styling. French oak luxury and spice range. Swells with airing.
Positively posh. Depth and density. Modern, handsome./ Balance of
oak and fruit. Fine and full tannins. Has grip. Serious, ambitious.
16.9+. wt041404-12. OLIVER
CAMELOT INDIANA MEAD - (U.S.) Sweet and
right. Polleny. Nougat and honeydew. One of the cleanest and freshest
meads I’ve smelled. More complicated than clover honey. Some said
orange blossom; I’m thinking tupelo. Neither likely in southern
Indiana./ Sweet, with good acidity. Not too sweet. Not really dessert
sweet. Got to think about some food matches here. 15.6.
Wednesday, April 7, 2004 wt040704-01. 2003
SANTA RITA 120 LONTUE SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (CHILE) Bright, piquant, vibrant. Very brisk, grapefruity, fresh,
vigorous./ Fresh, tangy, perky grapefruit-like acidity. Lots of
varietal vigor. Well positioned for summertime refreshment. 15.8. wt040704-02. 2003
SANTA RITA RESERVA CASABLANCA SAUVIGNON BLANC
- (CHILE) Lovely. Not so vigorous, more controlled and elegant,
more finesse. Less grapefruit and more gooseberry. Very subtle oak.
Fine./ Smooth–barrel-mellowed. Fine-textured. World-class. 16.2. wt040704-03. 2003
SANTA RITA 120 ACONCAGUA CHARDONNAY -
(CHILE) Oak more evident but not dominant. Juicy, mineral-dusted,
enticing. Twist of lemon peel./ Smooth, oaky. Sweet pear, peach,
and citrus flavors. Elegant, well balanced. 15.5. wt040704-04. 2002
SANTA RITA RESERVA CASABLANCA CHARDONNAY
- (CHILE) Oak presence again, in a sleek, modest fashion, with soft
vanilla fragrance. Shy and backward, less eager, less effusive at
present./ Again, the fruit is shy, the oak graceful. Creamy malo
tones. Some alcohol and astringency on the finish. 15.1. wt040704-05. 2001
MARSANNAY BLANC, BRUNO CLAIR - (CHILE)
One of his best blancs. Fine-grained, northern-grown oak–Vosges
or Morvan. Good, plump fruit. Cream, vanilla, apple, pear, nuts,
grains. Comfortable with itself./ Young and firm still. Light fruit
sweetness. Echo of oak. Not a lot of fruit flavor yet. Keep further.
15.6+. wt040704-06. 2002
SANTA RITA 120 RAPEL MERLOT - (CHILE)
A little sulphur at the start. But good, clean merlot fruit under:
sweet black cherries. Herb and tobacco. Dense for this cuvee./ Sweet
fruit and herbs, touch of tar. Has the oomph. Resourceful and reliable.
15.4. wt040704-07. 2002
SANTA RITA 120 RAPEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (CHILE) Deep cabernet currant. Smoky, oaky, woodsy, charry. Some
raw red currant./ Firmer than the merlot, of course. But there’s
a modicum of fruit padding. Needs time for the varietal expression
to amplify. 15.2. wt040704-08. 2002
SANTA RITA RESERVA MAIPO MERLOT - (CHILE)
Wood here, spicy and clear. Exotic wild fruits. Fat, ripe red and
black berries. Also leather and earth./ Good merlot flavor pushes
through. Dense, vigorous berry and herb flavors. Oak spiciness.
15.7. wt040704-09. 2002
SANTA RITA RESERVA MAIPO CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- (CHILE) Nutty, oaky. Firm red and black fruits, herbs, pitch.
Taut and woodsy. Sage note. The cabernets are consistently firmer
than the merlots, in keeping with varietal character./ Firm cabernet
fruit and tannin. Racy, but less forthcoming. Needs more time. 15.6+. wt040704-10. 2000
SANTA RITA MEDALLA REAL RESERVA SPECIALE MAIPO CABERNET SAUVIGNON - (CHILE) Great oak–French. Brown spices, sandalwood.
Cadbury milk caramel. Blackberry, currant, plum. Suavity and bouquet
development from time in both barrel and bottle./ Again, the mellow
oak and fruit merged, with spicy highlights hovering above. Good
strength and abundance. Mealworthy. A great job of aging by the
winemaker. 16.5. wt040704-11. 2001
SALICE SALENTINO, FEUDO MONACI - (ITALY)
Hearty, pungent, sweet alcohol and warm, tarry fruit of the south.
A treat. Smoky, jammy raspberry and strawberry. Dates. Even some
brown spices like you get from barrel aging./ Soft for ‘01. Sassy,
easy. Has enough grip to give it frame though. Popular and good.
15.7. wt040704-12. 2001
PUGLIA PRIMITIVO, FEUDO MONACI - (ITALY)
Plump, plummy, ripe fruit. Raisinettes. Animal tones too. Very spicy./
Sweet, soft, smooth, porty. Lots of sunshine embodied in this one.
14.3. wt040704-13. 1994
WARRE’S TRADITIONAL LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT bottled 1998 - (FORTIFIED) Sweet, raisined, nutty. Young, penetrating,
and powerful. Certainly of Vintage Port style, size, power. But
a little unresolved at present. Warre’s fine tailoring not showing
yet./ Fulfillment on the palate though. Explosive. Heft, grip, vibrance.
Sweetness and strength in balance. Warre’s satin texture. Lots of
black fruit flavor. And black licorice. And bitter chocolate. Much
more comfortable with itself on the palate than on the nose at this
point. I’m confident it will eventually rival the great 1992 in
both theaters. 17.0+.
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